Trout Peak, Absaroka Range, Wyoming – Part 1: Jim Creek to Agee Creek (7-7-22)

Days 20-22 of Lupe’s 1st Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacation to Wyoming!

7-5-22, 7:34 AM – What a gorgeous morning in the Wind River Range!  Across the North Creek valley War Bonnet Peak (12,369 ft.) soared into the blue flanked by Sundance Pinnacle (11,054 ft.) on the L, and more distant Pingora Peak (11,884 ft.) beyond Jackass Pass on the R.

Sundance Pinnacle (L), War Bonnet Peak (Center), Pingora Peak (R). Photo looks NW.

I’m going to miss Dog Tooth Paradise, SPHP!

Me too, Looper, but this is it, I’m afraid.  We’re 100% completely, totally out of food.

We’ve got supplies at the RAV4, though, don’t we?

Of course we do, Loop.  Just nothing left in the pack here.  Brunch when we get to the trailhead!

Not a soul was on any of the trails, even super popular Big Sandy Trail No. 099.  Lupe trotted ahead in fine spirits.  SPHP’s spirits improved, too, after stopping to goop up with Eucalyptus cream which helped ward off the mosquitoes.  When the opportunity arose, Loop once again took the less traveled route past Diamond Lake and V Lake.  A long march, but a scenic one, and downhill or level nearly the entire way.  Famished, Loopster arrived back at Big Sandy Opening at 11:07 AM.

By mid-afternoon, the American Dingo was in Lander.  94ºF on the way into town, but it didn’t seem that bad relaxing at the city park beneath the big old cottonwood trees.  Loop could always wet her paws in the Middle Popo Agie River, which although quite a bit lower than it had been only 2 weeks ago, still had good flow.

7-6-22 – The morning turned cloudy shortly after sunrise.  Only 64ºF at noon leaving Lander, but the day warmed up on the road N.  86ºF in the Wind River Canyon on the way to Thermopolis, hot enough for SPHP to enjoy a swim in Rattler Whirlpool, although Lupe preferred wading or laying in the shade watching.

Wind River Canyon. Photo looks NNW.
Southbound train from Rattler Whirlpool. Photo looks NW.

The hour spent at Rattler Whirlpool was the highlight of the day, but wasn’t all that happened.  On the way to Meeteetse, SPHP pulled off Hwy 120 for a while to allow a hailstorm ahead drift off to the E.  Rained in Cody while picking up supplies.  A little after that, Lupe was enjoying chocolate-coated mini-doughnuts while watching seagulls swooping over Buffalo Bill Reservoir from a pullout along Hwy 14/16/20 with a view of Cedar Mountain (7,880 ft.).

7-6-22, 7:10 PM, Hwy 14/16/20, 7 miles W of the W end of Buffalo Bill Reservoir –

Well, shoot!  Here’s the Shoshone River bridge.  How could I have missed the turn, Loop?  I was watching for it!

Don’t ask me, SPHP!  I’m watching for cows and horses.  What turn are you looking for, anyway?  Where are we trying to get to?

At the moment, we’re just looking for the Jim Creek trailhead.  Should have been a road going N less than a mile back, but I didn’t see one.  Hang on, I’ll turn around.

The second pass did the trick.  Heading W, the turn had been hidden by a ridge until almost the last moment, but Jim Mountain Road was easy to spot going E.  A big brown building and an odd sign were at the turn.

At the start of Jim Mountain Road on the N side of Hwy 14/16-20 which goes to Yellowstone’s E entrance W of Cody.
Signage at the start of Jim Mountain Road.

Why so puzzled, SPHP?  What do the signs say?

Well, one says this is the way to the Jim Mountain Trailhead, which is where we’re trying to get to, although I thought it was Jim Creek, not mountain.  The other says “Recreational Users: Please use Four Bear Trailhead 1/4 mile E”.

That is strange, SPHP.  Does that mean recreational users aren’t allowed at the Jim Mountain Trailhead?  Aren’t we recreational users?  Maybe it’s only for business travelers?

Almost does seem to imply we aren’t welcome here, Loop, since we’re most definitely recreational users.  After all, this is your Dingo Vacation, not your Dingo Business Trip.  Why would that be, though?  I’ve never heard of a trailhead that wasn’t for recreational users before.  Furthermore, most business travel doesn’t involve an awful lot of wandering around in the mountains.

So, what are we going to do, SPHP?

Well, my Dingo partner in crime, let’s have a look at the Jim Mountain Trailhead before deciding.

Going N on Jim Mountain Road, which was good gravel, the road soon wound steeply up onto a sagebrush-covered ridge before resuming its course N.  This whole area was a subdivision of nice homes spaced out on small acreages.

Looking for a turn L on USFS Road No. 405 roughly 1.5 miles from the highway, Wapiti Heights Drive appeared instead, which had to be the same thing, since another sign confirmed this was the way to the Jim Mountain Trailhead.

Evidently on the right track. Photo looks NW.

7-6-22, 7:42 PM, Jim Creek Trailhead, Shoshone National Forest – Wapiti Heights Drive wound around to the W losing elevation even faster than the climb up onto this ridge had been.  The road passed more homes all the way to the end where No Trespassing signs were near a gate.  The gate was open though, so SPHP simply drove through right on up a little rise to the trailhead.

The sun was already getting low when Lupe arrived.  SPHP parked the RAV4 at one of 5 or 6 spots separated by long metal pipes evidently meant for vehicles pulling trailers, and the Carolina Dog leapt out.  A lone outhouse stood on a small hill.  Beyond it a couple of single track trails headed N up a sagebrush-dotted slope toward a 600 foot high wall of brown rock a mile away with a volcanic look about it.

The only trailhead information was the usual boilerplate about being in bear country, and a sign about investing in stocks.

Jim Creek trailhead. Photo looks NNW.
Important trailhead tip: Don’t forget to bring your horse.

Hmm.  “Camping Permitted Only With Saddle/Pack Stock”  Knew there was something I was forgetting, Loopster.  I forgot to pack a horse!

While Lupe sniffed around the perimeter of the empty parking lot, SPHP noticed lots of prickly pear cactus among the sagebrush.  4 or 5 hitching posts were nearby, but no horse poop, hay, or trampled ground.  Despite the homes on the ridge, Jim Creek felt like the trailhead that time forgot.

7-7-22, 8:05 AM, 71ºF, Jim Creek Trailhead – Hardly a cloud in the sky as SPHP got the pack ready.  Brilliant morning sun on the line of brown cliffs to the NW highlighted the rugged volcanic stone.  Lupe sniffed lazily about, or laid in the shade of the RAV4, watching.

About ready to leave the Jim Creek trailhead. Photo looks NW.

Bringing the tiny house again, SPHP?

Heh, yeah, it’s a long way to Trout Peak (12,244 ft.), Looper.  Maybe I’ll just ditch the rain jacket here at the RAV4, though?  No rain at all in the forecast the next several days.  Do I really need to cart it all the way to Trout Peak and back?  Might be better off packing extra sunscreen!

Your call, SPHP.  How long will we be gone?

At least 3 days, maybe 4, Loop.  Last year Josh Super did Trout in only 2.  Took the scenic route way up on the ridges, but as SPHP Not-So-Hot, I’m not at all sure I can go that way, and absolutely positive we won’t make it to Trout Peak and back in any 2 days.

What route are we going to take then, SPHP?

You know, Loop, I’d always figured that we’d try for Trout from the N, from Dead Indian Pass, or come up Dead Indian Creek near Dead Indian campground along Chief Joseph Scenic Highway No. 296.  That’s such a long trek, though, I wasn’t sure I could lug enough supplies to last us.

I sure wouldn’t be inclined to go that way if I were an Indian, SPHP!  Chief Joseph Scenic Highway, that’s the way to the Beartooths, isn’t it?

Right on, Looper!  Anyway, I’d always wondered what the best approach was, and then one day I saw that Duane Gilliland, Mark Adrian, Desert Rat, Bob Bolton, and Richard Hensley had also been to Trout Peak last year right about this time.  They took a series of trails from here at the Jim Creek trailhead that got them close to the mountain.  After a look at their GPS tracks and reading their trip reports, I’m convinced we stand a good chance of actually getting to Trout Peak, if we follow their lead.  Easier than how Josh Super went, and not as far as coming in from the N.

And you said there are trails most of the way, SPHP?  Shouldn’t be that hard then, if they’re in decent shape.

My thoughts, too, Loop.  A nice long march with a fair amount of up and down, but no super steep territory until we get close to Trout Peak.

Sounds good!  Are you ready yet, SPHP?

Yes!  A word to the wise, though, Loopster.  Lots of cactus around here, so stick to the trail until we get past it.  Onward!  Puppy, ho!

Heading N on Trail No. 762, Lupe stayed right at SPHP’s heels.  The day was warming up fast beneath the full sun, as the American Dingo went up a long sagebrush-dotted slope.  Soon her pink tongue was hanging out.  Hardly any shade at all, so whenever a lone, scraggly juniper tree did appear, Lupe wanted to take advantage of it.

A deserty experience, this first long trudge featured beauty, too.  Insects hummed among a surprising variety of wildflowers, some of which were on the dreaded cacti.

Indian Paintbrush.
Flowering cactus.

Climbing steadily, progress was good as the trail headed for the N end of the badlandy volcanic cliffs.  After gaining 700 feet of elevation, No. 762 leveled out and turned NW straight for them.  A big cairn was up here, and the Jim Creek valley was now in sight to the N.

Approaching the volcanic cliffs. Photo looks NW.
Jim Creek valley from the cairn. Photo looks NNE.

Near the base of the cliffs, the trail turned N.  More trees appeared.  The trail bounced along for a bit with little net elevation gain through a land of interesting rock formations.  The first, an improbable vertical pillar.  Four Bear Benchmark (7,606 ft.) was in view off to the E.

This pillar is quite the landmark, SPHP!  What shall we call it?

How about Middle Finger Rock, Looper?

That’s just rude, SPHP!

It was, but the name stuck.

Middle Finger Rock (R of Center). Four Bears Benchmark (far R). Photo looks ENE.
Among more rock formations. Four Bear Benchmark (R). Photo looks E.

Leaving the rock formations behind, the trail began climbing again as Lupe entered the Jim Creek valley.  A nice forest provided welcome relief from the hot sun.  At first, Jim Creek could only be heard somewhere well down the slope to the E, but after 0.5 mile, the Carolina Dog came to a ford.  Jim Creek was too big for SPHP to rock hop, but not very deep.  Wading across was easy, and the cold water felt good on the paws.

Fording Jim Creek.

0.2 mile beyond the ford, Lupe came to a signed fork.  No. 762 angled L here destined for the Jim Mountain (10,430 ft.) region.  Trail No. 762.1A, aka the Jim Mountain cut-across, went R.  SPHP checked the map.

At the fork. Photo looks N.
The fading signage.

Stay R here, Loop.  Take No. 762.1A.

No. 762.1A continued N up the valley, gradually turning E.  Jim Creek had gone the other way, and hadn’t been seen since the ford, anyway.  For a while, there was little to be seen except trees.

Trail No. 762.1A. Photo looks NNE.

The trail had been going SE, and was beginning to flatten out and turn E again, when Lupe reached a small clearing.  HP9536 and HP9351 were now visible off to the NW.  A little past the small clearing, the Carolina Dog came to a much larger one.  After going through a gap in a barbed wire fence, No. 762.1A turned NE up a long open slope toward HP8245.

Thousands of white moths flitted among wildflowers and sagebrush.  There were big views here with Rattlesnake Mountain (9,116 ft.), the Buffalo Bill Reservoir, and Cedar Mountain (7,880 ft.) all in the distance to the E.  Table Mountain (8,504 ft.) was easily identifiable beyond the Shoshone River valley to the S.  Already tiring from the long uphill march, even Lupe paused to relax and look around.

HP9536 (L) and HP9351 (R of Center) from the small clearing. Photo looks NW.
Wildflowers.
Back in open territory again. HP8245 (L). Photo looks NE.
One of countless white moths.
Table Mountain (L of Center) while Lupe takes a break. Photo looks SSW.

Instead of going all the way to the top of HP8245, Trail No. 762.1A curved E upon approaching the steepest part.  Lupe traversed a slope of brilliant yellow wildflowers at this turn, beyond which the trail passed more rock formations.  A final rocky knob appeared at HP8245‘s SE corner.

Yellow wildflowers at the curve E on HP8245‘s upper S slope. Photo looks NE.
Sheep Mountain (L), Four Bear Benchmark (far L). Photo looks SE toward the Shoshone River valley.

Hey, that knob’s kind of cool!  Want to get up there, Looper?  I’ll give you a boost.

Sure, but be careful.  Don’t drop me, SPHP!

On the knob. Photo looks SE.

According to the topo map, this is the trail’s high point for today, Loop.  Want to take a break here?  Water and a chocolate coconut bar in it for you, if you do.

If there’d been any doubt about taking a break, which there really wasn’t, the chocolate coconut bar offer sealed the deal.  After an assist getting off the knob, Lupe sat down next to SPHP.

So, were done climbing for the day?  How high are we here, SPHP?

About 8,120 feet, Loop.  I figure we’ve gained roughly 1,900 feet in about 3.5 miles from the trailhead so far.  We aren’t done climbing, though, by any means.  Quite a bit of elevation gain yet to come, but interspersed with some equally long downhill stretches, too.  Won’t have much to show for our trouble other than distance traveled.  We’ll have a net loss from here.

Easier than going uphill all the time, SPHP!

True enough, Looper, but you know I always hate to surrender hard won elevation gains just to rinse and repeat.

Nearly noon when Lupe hit Trail No. 762.1A again.  Right away there were changes.  For the first time, the trail began a long, gradual descent through a forest that had burned.  Loopster started coming to deadfall.  Fortunately, not enough to cause much of a problem.  Hardly any shade, but on the other paw, the fire had opened up the views to some extent.  So many dead trees were still standing, though, that the American Dingo seldom enjoyed a clear one.

Entering the burnt forest just beyond Rocky Knob. Photo looks NE.
A rare unobstructed view. Part of Rattlesnake Mountain (L), Cedar Mountain (Center), part of Buffalo Bill Reservoir (R). Photo looks ESE.

The trail soon curved sharply NW, descending into a valley where it then turned NE.  Lupe had lost more than 400 feet of elevation by the time she reached a junction where an old sign was propped up against a tree.  This was the end of Jim Mountain cut-across Trail No. 762.1A.

Heading into the next valley. Photo looks NW.
Signage at the 2nd trail junction.

Well, Loop, seems we’ve got a choice of Trout Creek Trail No. 763 to the L, or Four Bear Trail No. 763.1B to the R.

Oh, that’s an easy one, SPHP!  Trout Creek must be close to Trout Peak, so we better go that way.

Going L, as the Carolina Dog had correctly surmised, it was only 200 feet to a tiny stream.  A stand of live trees here provided some shade.  After a drink, Lupe curled up beneath a couple of small, leafy bushes.

This must be Gunnysack Creek, Loop.  Not exactly a raging torrent is it?  We’re pretty close to the source.

Enough to get a drink, and a raging torrent would only be a problem, SPHP.

Yeah, we’ll be coming to quite a few streams, so let’s hope none of them are torrents, unless there happens to be a decent bridge.

I wouldn’t count on that, SPHP.

Taking a break by tiny Gunnysack Creek.

Trail No. 763 continued N, but not straight N.  As the map indicated, Lupe came to a series of streams separated by big ridges.  A zig-zag pattern kept repeating itself on the way to each stream.  First, the trail would climb NE up onto the next ridge, which might involve anywhere from a 100 to 300 foot elevation gain.  The trail would then flatten out, heading N across the ridge before angling NW descending into the next valley where Lupe would ultimately reach the next stream.

Most of this region had once been heavily forested.  However, nearly the entire forest had burned.  Trail No. 763 did pass through scattered stands of live trees, always nice due to the shade provided, but these stretches were never very long.  Up on the ridges, Lupe often journeyed through meadows where sweeping views were available toward the E.

From the very first ridge past Gunnysack Creek, an indication of trouble was ahead.  The morning’s clear blue skies were long gone.  Cumulus clouds were building, and the sky was starting to look dark to the N.

Crossing the first ridge N of Gunnysack Creek. Photo looks NNW.

The first stream N of Gunnysack Creek was a S tributary of Laughing Water Creek, which came next.  Although larger than Gunnysack Creek, both were easily stepped over or rock-hopped.

At the S tributary of Laughing Water Creek. Photo looks WSW.
A chipmunk that got Lupe’s attention.
Cooling off in Laughing Water Creek. Photo looks WSW.

Burnt Creek came after Laughing Water Creek, and was also an easy rock hop.  Trout Peak (12,244 ft.) finally came into view, which allowed SPHP to positively identify Robbers Roost (12,040 ft.) as well.

Trout Peak (Center), Robbers Roost (R). Photo looks NW.
N of Burnt Creek. Photo looks NE.

Continuing N, occasional glimpses of Trout Peak gradually improved.  Meanwhile, the weather was looking more iffy.  Thunder sometimes rumbled in the distance.

Starting the descent to Stockade Creek. Photo looks NW.
Trout Peak (L), Robbers Roost (R). Photo looks NW with help from the telephoto lens.

Your decision to leave the rain jacket back at the RAV4 isn’t looking so great now, Einstein.

Yeah, wish I had that one back, Loop, but there hadn’t been a drop of rain in the forecast.  Supposed to be sunny and hot for 4 days!

And it was, for 4 hours!

Stockade Creek was too big to rock-hop.  Still an easy ford, but caused some delay as SPHP went through the routine of removing boots and socks to wade it barepaw.  The cold water did feel good, although SPHP wasn’t looking forward to experiencing it dropping out of the sky.

A little past Stockade Creek, Lupe came to an old wooden bridge over a marshy spot.  The sky now looked quite dark ahead.

Fording Stockade Creek. Photo looks SW.
Crossing the marsh. Photo looks N.
Lupe by some lupines.

Nothing happened, though.  The sky brightened again crossing the next ridge.  A temporary respite, perhaps.  On the way to Singing Brook, Lupe came to a flat field of yellow and purple wildflowers.  This appeared to be a great place to camp, but Trout Peak was still a long way off.  Lupe needed to get farther before calling it a day.

Sunnier again on the way to Singing Brook. Photo looks NNE.
In the field of yellow and purple flowers. Photo looks N.

Thus far, the trails had been easy to follow, but No. 763 vanished as Lupe crossed the field.  Continuing the same way, SPHP was surprised when there was no sign of the trail at the edge of a 10 foot deep ravine full of deadfall and bushes.  Searching W (L), the trail was soon rediscovered at a better spot to cross the ravine.

It wasn’t much farther to Singing Brook, which also proved to be too big to rock-hop, but another easy ford.  Once across, it also proved to be the only creek Lupe had come to with any signage.

Fording Singing Brook.
By the Singing Brook sign. Photo looks W.

Beyond Singing Brook, Trail No. 763 went around the E end of the next ridge, then turned N entering the Trout Creek valley.  Glimpses of Trout Creek were to the E, and from the white water and roar it was making, Trout Creek was clearly a far more serious proposition than any of the other streams Lupe had come to today.

Oh, my gosh, Loopster!  Let’s hope there’s a bridge!

No such luck.

Trout Creek. Photo looks NW.

Aye yi yi, Looper!  How are we going to get across this?

Trout Creek wasn’t huge, but it was absolutely full bank to bank of swift water plunging down a series of rapids.  Trail No. 763 led straight into it at a sharp bend between a cascade immediately upstream, and a logjam immediately below.  Sticking a trekking pole into the turgid stream a mere foot from the near bank, the water was easily mid-thigh on SPHP, and way over Lupe’s head.

Clearly any attempt to cross here would doom the Carolina Dog to being instantly swept downstream.  A moment later, Lupe would be pinned underwater against the logjam by the full force of the merciless torrent, a certain death sentence from which no rescue would be possible.

What did the trip reports you read say, SPHP?

None of them made any mention of this, Loop.  Maybe the flow was a lot less then?

We didn’t come all this way just to turn around, SPHP!  There must be somewhere we can cross.  Which way does the trail go on the other side?

NNW up the valley, Looper.

Let’s go upstream then, SPHP.  There’s lots of deadfall, maybe we can find a big log that will get us across?

Seemed like the only possible solution.  Traversing wet ground that had apparently been beneath the flood until very recently, Lupe worked her way around the near side of the cascade, clambering over a jumble of deadfall in the process.

Continuing upstream, the search began for a suitable deadfall bridge.  Trout Creek was straighter and less threatening up this way, and quite a few logs had fallen over the creek, which was all encouraging.

Several hundred feet upstream, a big log appeared that looked like it might do.

Approaching the potential Dingo Bridge over Trout Creek. Photo looks NW.

A fall wouldn’t be any fun, but Trout Creek didn’t appear to be the death trap here that it was down where the trail crossed it.

From what we’ve seen, this is probably about as good as it’s going to get, Loop.  Stay here, I’ll go first.

Taking baby steps, SPHP started across.  The log seemed sturdy enough, if not as wide as SPHP would have liked.  Halfway across, confidence and the urge to get to that opposite bank grew.  A few quick, big steps, and the ordeal was over and done with.

Your turn, Loop!

Without the slightest hesitation, the Carolina Dog leapt up onto the log, and raced over Trout Creek like it was nothing.

On the Dingo Bridge.

Show off!

4 on the floor for added stability and confidence, SPHP!

Being safely past Trout Creek was cause for immediate joy and relief!  Bounding up a short steep bank, Lupe then crossed a flat area chock full of more deadfall before reaching Trail No. 763 again.  Back in business!  Turning NNW, a gradual climb soon led to a big gap in the ridge to the E.  The trail turned NE here, going right through the gap, leaving Trout Creek behind.

Once through the gap, the trail turned NW.  Lupe had reached the Agee Creek valley, and soon came to a pleasant little stream.  Happily, Agee Creek presented none of the dangers of Trout Creek.

Agee Creek.

Continuing NW, Agee Creek was easily heard nearby, but hidden in a ditch full of trees and bushes.  The sky was looking more threatening again when Lupe came to a small clearing sporting a stone fire ring.  A sign for another trail junction was in sight only 250 feet ahead.

7-7-22, 5:15 PM, Agee Creek – Hours of daylight left, but SPHP was weary.  Loop had accumulated roughly 3,000 feet of total elevation gain over the course of 9.5 miles since leaving the trailhead this morning.

How are you feeling, Looper?  We haven’t made it as far as I’d hoped, but at least we’ve made it to our minimum goal for the day.  Looks like rain.  Want to stop here?

You mean for the night, SPHP?  I’m happy with that.  Better than getting drenched!

SPHP had no sooner dropped the pack than big raindrops started to fall.  Retreating to the shelter of a large pine, the shower lasted only 5 or 10 minutes.  SPHP managed to get Lupe’s tiny house set up and the rain cover on before it started raining again.

Didn’t matter, Loopster had made it into the tiny house just in time.  A hearty dinner with beef jerky for dessert!  Then warm and dry, snuggly wrapped in her red sleeping bag, it was off to Dingo Dreamland while the rain came down.

Awaiting dinner at low camp near Agee Creek, Absaroka Range, Wyoming 7-7-22

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Mount Fitzpatrick, Salt River Range, Wyoming – Part 1: Greys River Road to Upper Crow Creek Lake (6-29-22)

Days 12-14 of Lupe’s 1st Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacation to Wyoming!

6-27-22, Dog Creek trailhead at the end of USFS Road No. 31030 – The sun was well up and shining brightly when SPHP came to.

About time, sleepyhead!

And I suppose you’ve been up for hours, aye, Looper?

A long time, SPHP.

Well, bully for you then, Miss Ambitious!  You needn’t have woken up so early, though.  After 4 days in the Snake River Range, we’re taking a break.

Good!  I’m actually feeling lazy, too.  I was just giving you a hard time, SPHP.

Perfect, we’re on the same page then, Loopster.  You’re going to like the plan for the next couple of days.

Two rest days, SPHP?

Yeah, why not?  The trip journal needs some serious catching up.

After a quick drive back to Hwy 26/89, SPHP spent an hour cleaning and reorganizing the RAV4 at the Pritchard boat ramp along the Snake River.  Lupe didn’t even get out, preferring to laze around on her pink blanket.  Then it was off to Alpine for a few groceries.

6-27-22, Greys River – Lupe was super enthusiastic when she hopped out of the RAV4 and saw that she was back at the same spot at the end of Road No. 10399.  Nearly a week ago she’d spent the day after her ascent of Mount McDougal  (10,780 ft.) here.  The American Dingo dashed about sniffing excitedly, even briefly wading in the river before settling down to relax in the shade of old spruce trees along the riverbank.

This was rapidly becoming a favorite spot!  Hiding from the sun with the help of blankets and clothing draped over the RAV4’s windows, Lupe spent a pleasant afternoon snoozing on her pink blanket while SPHP worked on the trip journal.  In the evening, a stroll was taken both up and down Greys River Road

6-28-22, Greys River, end of Road No.10399 – During the night, Lupe had wanted out.  SPHP obliged her, but the Carolina Dog didn’t actually go anywhere.  Instead, she just laid on the ground near the RAV4 for a while all by herself beneath the stars, sniffing the cool night air and listening.

Morning had been sunny and bright again.  Clouded up a little around noon.  Another beautiful lazy day shot by next to the Greys River.  Only a deer managed to entice Lupe out of the RAV4 during the heat of the day.  Evening brought lightning and a rain shower, followed by a rainbow.  After a drive along Greys River Road just for fun, Lupe had been up for another stroll as dusk came on.  It was close to midnight by the time SPHP had the trip journal caught up.

6-29-22, 10:25 AM, Crow Creek trailhead along Greys River Road

C’mon, Looper!  Adventure time!

Barepawed, SPHP had already forded the first little side channel of Greys River, but Lupe was hanging back.

Crow Creek trailhead along Greys River Road. Photo looks NE.

Evidently the American Dingo was intent upon playing her stalking game again today.  That was alright.  She’d be along soon enough.

After putting socks and boots back on, SPHP almost immediately ran into a second side channel.  Ugh, already the usual ford routine again!  By the time SPHP was across this second stream, Lupe had caught up.  A short, damp, almost marshy stretch of Crow Creek Lakes Trail No. 044 went S from here to a sturdy pawbridge over Greys River.

On the pawbridge. Photo looks SW.
Greys River from the bridge. Photo looks S (upstream).

Once across the bridge, the trail headed W to a slope that gained 50 feet on its way up to a level stretch of forest.  Many trees were dead, trunks scorched by fire.  Beyond the forest, Trail No. 044 turned SW, passing through a large meadow leading to the mouth of the Crow Creek valley.

In the first level stretch of forest. Photo looks. E.
Glancing back at the forest while passing through the meadow. Photo looks NE.
Heading for the Crow Creek valley. Photo looks SW.

The trail dipped slightly after crossing the meadow.  Crow Creek, a lovely, medium-size stream was now in sight.

Crow Creek (L) as Trail No. 044 enters the valley. Photo looks SW.

0.5 mile plus from the Greys River pawbridge, Trail No. 44 crossed Crow Creek.  No bridge at all here!  Lupe was going to have to ford the stream.  Although the bottom was rocky, this wasn’t a difficult ford.  The water wasn’t even knee-deep on SPHP.

Since Loopster was still playing her stalking game, SPHP was already on the far bank by the time the Carolina Dog arrived.  Instead of plunging in, Lupe laid down in the shade of some bushes.

At the first Crow Creek ford. Photo looks NE.

C’mon over, Loop!  Nothing to it.  You’ll like it!

Is that so?  I notice you don’t plunge entirely into many frigid streams, SPHP.  Why should I?  Where are we going, anyway?  You haven’t said, yet you’ve got the tiny house.  How long are we going to be gone this time?

Oh, remember before we climbed Mount McDougal (10,780 ft.) how I first gave up on climbing Mount Fitzpatrick (10,907 ft.), because I was afraid of how much snow we might have to face on a steep N face?  I’m hoping enough snow has melted since then to give us a decent shot at Fitzpatrick.  Should only take us a couple of days.

So, just one day in, then all the way back tomorrow, SPHP?

Yep, that’s the plan!  We’ll only go as far as the Crow Creek Lakes today, summit tomorrow, and out.  How does that sound?

The American Dingo apparently liked the plan.  Without further ado, Lupe easily forded Crow Creek and the trek resumed, but only for a few hundred feet before a second ford appeared.

SPHP was getting sick and tired of constantly taking boots and socks off, only to put them right back on again, but did it once more.  Lupe waited until SPHP ventured across to take on Crow Creek a second time.

Braving the second Crow Creek ford. Photo looks E.

Happily, this second ford was the last one.  Trail No. 44 now headed W up the valley, eventually curving NW.  Most of the time, Lupe was out in the open, among wildflowers and lush vegetation.  Although never far away, Crow Creek was generally hidden by bushes and seldom in view.

Obstacle-free and easy to follow, the trail both gained and lost elevation, but was usually flat, or a gradual incline.  Progress was rapid.  Overhead, a previously sunny sky was clouding up.

Along the N side of the Crow Creek valley. Photo looks ESE.
Heading deeper into the Salt River Range. Photo looks NW.

Roughly 2 miles from the trailhead, the Crow Creek valley split in two.  The confluence of North and South Crow Creeks was in this area, but never visible from the trail.  Sticking with the trail, SPHP followed it W up the North Crow Creek valley.  Meanwhile, Lupe continued to hang back, playing her stalking game.

The rate of climb increased.  No. 044 crossed several tributaries of Crow Creek.  All were small, a few muddy stretches of trail being the worst of it.  While there were still meadows, the trail now went through longer and more frequent stretches of forest.  Deadfall sometimes slowed SPHP down, but most of it wasn’t that hard to get by.

A tributary of North Crow Creek flowing right along Trail No. 044. Photo looks WSW.
Loop cooling off in another minor stream. Photo looks E.
Passing through a rare stand of aspens. Photo looks W.

After a while, it began to sprinkle.  SPHP took shelter beneath a large spruce tree when a harder downpour began, and Lupe soon caught up.  10 or 15 minutes, and the rain moved on.  So did the Carolina Dog.

Eventually, glimpses of a huge mountain began appearing ahead.  Upon seeing it, SPHP’s heart sank.  If that was Mount Fitzpatrick (10.907 ft.), this whole endeavor was doomed.  Lupe wouldn’t stand a chance!  The whole N face was very rugged, rocky, and borderline cliff-like steep.

A huge rugged mountain appears ahead. Photo looks W.
A closer look with help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks W.

Trail No. 044 headed almost straight for the monster.  As Lupe closed in, a headwall extending N came into view.  Both Crow Creek Lakes were somewhere above that headwall.

A bit of deadfall to contend with. Going around it did the trick. Photo looks W.
The trail sometimes faded while crossing meadows. Photo looks W.
Getting closer. Headwall on the R. Photo looks W.

4 miles from Greys River Road, Lupe entered a big meadow providing a great view of both the mountain and the headwall, which were now only 0.25 mile away.  Just getting above the headwall looked like a challenge. A continuous line of cliffs ran along it.

Near the far W end of this meadow, a brown “No Motor Vehicles” wand marked the end of Trail No. 044 at a junction with Trail No. 079, which went either S or N from here.  100 feet W of the wand, a sign was nailed to a tree.

In the big meadow before reaching the junction with Trail No. 079. Photo looks W.
Loop down by the sign tree. Photo looks W.
The sign identified Trail No. 079 as Way Trail.

The sign merely confirmed what SPHP already knew.  Lupe needed to take Trail No. 079 R (N) to Pass 9060.

Despite 2 rest days, and an easy trek thus far, SPHP was already getting worn out lugging a heavy pack.  Heh, too bad!  Things were just starting to get interesting.  Continuing W a short distance into the forest, Trail No. 079 steepened considerably as it then curved N into a long meadow.

The American Dingo’s stalking game continued.  Loop was getting plenty of rest breaks due to SPHP’s frequent pauses to gasp for breath.  The sky was clearing again, and the sun felt mighty warm on the uphill trudge.

Trail No. 079 curves N toward Pass 9060 (R). Photo looks NNW.
Looking back on the way up to Pass 9060. Photo looks S.

3:03 PM, Trail No. 079 at Pass 9060Shedding the pack, SPHP sat down on a log.  Pass 9060 was forested, and sitting in the shade was a welcome relief.  Time for a longer rest break!  When Loop sauntered in, she had no objections to laying down and enjoying some Taste of the Wild.

Pass 9060 was a fairly narrow ridge running E/W.  The N side was quite rocky, and Lupe was thrilled to find a snowbank still melting away.  Off to the NW, Peak 10180 was in sight.  Trail No. 079 continued N beyond the pass, starting a descent into the Rock Creek valley.

Arriving at Pass 9060. Photo looks NNW.
On the snowbank just N of the pass. Photo looks W.
Peak 10180 (Center). Photo looks NW.

This was it, though, as far as Trail No. 079 was concerned for Lupe.  As soon as SPHP felt sufficiently recovered, it was time to start looking for a way up the headwall.  Apparently inspired by the steeper, rocky terrain, the American Dingo no longer held back, instead leading the way as she began climbing W along the Pass 9060 ridge.

A use trail appeared.  Following it, the cliffs of the headwall soon came into view.

Approaching the headwall. Photo looks WSW.

Reaching the base of the cliffs, they appeared continuous toward the S.  The use trail turned NW up a rocky ramp.  From Pass 9060, cliffs had been visible to the N, too, but after gaining some elevation and getting up to where these cliffs were, the ramp and use trail both turned SW.

Heading NW up the lower part of the ramp. Photo looks NW.
The upper ramp turns SW. Photo looks SW.

Sort of steep, but the ramp wasn’t bad.  No real scrambling involved at all.  Suddenly, Lupe was above the headwall!  Still climbing, the use trail turned W continuing up a big ridge.  Steep meadows were to the S, with genuine cliffs just N of the ridgeline.

Above the headwall, continuing up a big ridge. Photo looks W.

After gaining nearly 200 feet of elevation from the top of the headwall, the rate of climb diminished.  Another mountain was now in sight W of the one seen earlier from the North Crow Creek valley.  Pausing to check the topo map, SPHP finally understood.

Oh, I get it now, Loopster!  That first mountain is actually Peak 10525Mount Fitzpatrick (10,907 ft.) is the one beyond it.

Peak 10525 (Center), Mount Fitzpatrick (R). Photo looks SW.

Is that a good thing, SPHP?

Eh, hard to say.  See quite a bit of snow on Fitzpatrick’s N face, and it looks mighty steep, too.  Can’t be any worse than Peak 10525, though.  No way we were ever going to make it up that one.

Well, it is a good thing then, SPHP!  At least we stand a chance now!

Yeah, I guess you’re right, Looper.  Surprised we haven’t seen any use trail peeling off to the SSW yet.  Lower Crow Creek Lake is supposed to be over that way nestled at the base of Peak 10525.  Sort of wanted to see it.

Nothing stopping us from going over there, SPHP.  Want to do that?

Oh, I don’t know, Loop.  Think we’ve already climbed too far.  Kind of hate to give up any of our elevation gain, and I suspect we’re already well above the lower lake.  If we see a trail going that way, maybe we’ll take it, but we could just head for Upper Crow Creek Lake instead.  Hoping to put your tiny house up there, anyway, since it’s closer to Fitzpatrick.

Suit yourself, SPHP!  Fine with me.  Onward, then!

Staying high, Lupe continued WSW along the flattest part of the ridge.

Continuing along the high ground. Peak 10525 (L) and Mount Fitzpatrick (Center). Photo looks WSW.

Before long, the flat ground came to an end.  Ahead, the terrain sloped quite a bit.  Lupe was going to have to lose at least some elevation just to get over to the next flat area, a forested region already in sight.

By now the use trail had faded away.  Side-hilling wasn’t SPHP’s favorite, but didn’t bother the Carolina Dog at all.  The only other choice would have been to angle WNW following the ridge clear to the top of Peak 10143.  Eh, that wasn’t happening, so the downward traverse began.

On the traverse leading to the flatter stretch of forest ahead. Peak 10525 (L of Center), Mount Fitzpatrick (R). Photo looks WSW.

When Loopster got to it, the forested area wasn’t entirely flat, either.  Exploring, she came to a snow-filled clearing in a depression.  Since there still wasn’t any sign of a trail going S to the Lower Crow Creek Lake, Lupe kept going W.  At the base of Peak 10143, she discovered a scenic tarn so secret that it wasn’t even shown on the map.

In the snowy depression. Photo looks SW.
Near the secret tarn below Peak 10143. Photo looks NW.

Passing S of the tarn on rocky terrain, Lupe got almost down to the tarn’s level.  A meadow went W from the tarn to another fairly steep slope.  An 80 foot rocky climb led to a broad flat region.

Got it made now, Looper!  This is Pass 9540.  All downhill from here!

After crossing the super flat saddle, a gentle descent toward Peak 10525 ensued through a meadow bordered by forest and long snowbanks.

Starting the beautiful descent from Pass 9540. Peak 10525 (L), Mount Fitzpatrick (R). Photo looks SW.

At the lower SW end of the meadow, a minor escarpment of flat rocks came just before a somewhat steeper, but still easy, descent into a band of trees.  Emerging from the trees, a glorious scene was ahead.

Wow!  So, this is Upper Crow Creek Lake, SPHP?  It’s absolutely gorgeous!

Yeah, our home for an evening, Loop!  I’m loving it, too!

Right at the base of the highest, most magnificent part of Peak 10525, Upper Crow Creek Lake was nearly surrounded by snowfields still filling most of the valley.  The lake even sported a few icebergs  A mile WSW, loomed the N face of Mount Fitzpatrick (10,907 ft.).

Upper Crow Creek Lake. Peak 10525 (L), Mount Fitzpatrick (R). Photo looks SW.

5:22 PM – After circling around a little NE bay, SPHP pitched Lupe’s tiny house amid newly emergent buttercups on a snow-free patch of ground next to a stand of old spruce trees on a bank overlooking the N shore of Upper Crow Creek Lake.  Only a few feet away, a couple of weathered logs, their ends set at a 90º angle to each other, partially protected a white stone fire ring.

Despite the glorious surroundings, a certain weariness had set in for both human and Dingo.  Once the tiny house was up, both crept inside for a nap, enjoying the comfort of sleeping bags.  A cool S breeze coming from across the lake made the tiny house flap, but a blissful sound sleep was not to be denied.

6:44 PM – Ahh, much better!  The American Dingo and SPHP were both up and about again, feeling much refreshed.  What remained of a long summer evening was now free to spend exploring the fabulous Upper Crow Creek Lake region.

By the tiny house amid the buttercups. Photo looks SW.

Naturally, a trip down to the N shore of Upper Crow Creek Lake was in order.  It was a journey Lupe would make more than once this evening.

Along the N shore. Mount Fitzpatrick (R of Center). Photo looks WSW.
Peak 10525. Photo looks S.
Near the W end of the lake. Photo looks SW.
Looking back at Peak 10143 (Center & L) and the tiny house (R). Photo looks ENE.

Is that a bear I hear, or is it getting to be about dinner time, SPHP?

That’s my tummy, Loop.  Yeah, something to eat wouldn’t be a bad idea.  In fact, most anything would do at this point.  I’m famished!

Lupe sniffed around the tiny house, while SPHP rustled up some grub.

Back at the tiny house. Photo looks SE.
Dinnertime! Photo looks NW.

After dinner, another trip was made down to Upper Crow Creek Lake’s N shore to see the icebergs and admire Peak 10525’s rugged splendor as the last rays of sunshine crept up the mountain.

Peak 10525 (L) on a splendid evening from Upper Crow Creek Lake, Photo looks SSW.

No marmots, pikas, or gophers had been seen or heard, but somehow the crazy Carolina Dog became utterly convinced throngs of ’em were hiding near the tiny house.  The evening ended with frantic sniffing and furious digging at various holes.  Meanwhile SPHP stared off to the WSW toward Mount Fitzpatrick’s N slope.

A lot of snow up there, and mighty steep for a long way.  Loopster was having a grand time digging, but her efforts were all coming to naught.  Maybe this whole trip was going to end up the same way?

A marvelous time digging without result. Photo looks SW.

Hopefully not, but even if true, at least there was the consolation of this wonderful evening spent at spectacular Upper Crow Creek Lake!

Upper Crow Creek Lake, Salt River Range, Wyoming 6-29-22

Links:

Next Adventure                          Prior Adventure

Mount Fitzpatrick, Salt River Range, Wyoming – Part 2: Upper Crow Creek Lake to the Summit! (6-30-22)

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Indian Peak, Snake River Range, Wyoming (6-26-22)

Day 11 of Lupe’s Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacation to Wyoming!

9:02 AM, upper Dog Creek valley, Snake River Range – Another gorgeous morning!  The American Dingo was off to kind of a late start after her big success getting to Observation Peak (9,960 ft.) yesterday.  For the second day in a row, Lupe trotted across the big meadow in the upper Dog Creek valley, crossing small streams before reaching Trail No. 009.

Entering the big meadow in the upper Dog Creek valley. HP9582 (R). Photo looks W.

Following the trail to where it climbed NW up a bare slope, this time when it turned SW heading into a forest full of snow, Loop abandoned the trail to climb due S along the ridgeline, enjoying a beautiful view of the Dog Creek valley and Wolf Mountain (9,483 ft.) along the way.

Heading up the ridge. Photo looks S.
Dog Creek valley (Center), Wolf Mountain (R). Photo looks ENE.

As Lupe continued S, the rate of climb soon diminished.  Up here, the ridge was forested, with big snow drifts slowly melting away in the shade.  Turning SW, Lupe came to a snow-free clearing.  Blanketed in snow, a mountain and part of an enormous ridge N of it were in view.

Indian Peak (L) from the clearing. Photo looks SSW.

There it is, Loopster!  Indian Peak (9,683ft.)!

I know!  We saw it lots of times yesterday, remember, SPHP?  Not very far away, is it?  We’re almost there already!

Yup!  Maybe 0.5 mile as the crow flies.  Looks like we could almost head straight for it, and climb right on up.  Might be easier, though, if we can get back up onto the ridge N of it again.

Heading W toward the enormous ridge, Loopster re-entered the forest.  Climbing a hill, she trotted over snow drifts hidden among the trees.

Heading W through the forest. Photo looks W.

This little hill wasn’t much of a climb.  The terrain soon leveled out again.  The Carolina Dog came to a second snow-free clearing providing an even better look at Indian Peak and the ridge N of it.

Indian Peak (L) and its N ridge (Center & R) from the second clearing. Photo looks SW.

The scene was as snowy as ever, the terrain steep enough to discourage SPHP from encouraging a direct assault.

Keep going W, Looper!  Let’s see how things look over that way.

Crossing the second clearing, Lupe reached and passed through another band of trees, quickly emerging at the top of a rocky slope leading to the base of Indian Peak’s N ridge.  Toward the NW, the big ridge was nearly snow-free, and didn’t appear to be as high.  This was the same region where the topo map showed Trail No. 009 heading up onto the ridge.

Emerging from the trees near the base of the ridge. Photo looks SW.
Much less snow to the NW. Photo looks NW.

Looks easier to go up over there, doesn’t it, SPHP?

Sure does!  Head that way, Loop.  Maybe we’ll even find the trail again?

Going down the rock-strewn slope to the base of the ridge, the Carolina Dog found a small, icy tarn, but no sign of Trail No. 009.  The snow-free part of the ridge was considerably steeper than the snowfield right next to it.  When the snow generally held not only Lupe’s, but SPHP’s weight as well, venturing up the snowfield seemed the best option.

Near the icy snowmelt tarn. Photo looks NNW.
Heading up the snowfield. Photo looks W.

After a fair amount of progress up the slope, the snowfield steepened.  Loop was still doing fine, but SPHP decided to abandon the snow for the bare ground, which despite being even steeper, provided better traction.  Only a short trudge higher was now required to reach a bench bordered by a line of large, blocky boulders.

Up by the boulders. Photo looks N.

The boulders provided a good spot to take a breather, but Lupe was still only partway up the huge ridge.  Another big climb, a snow-filled bowl, was to the W.

Another snow climb ahead! Photo looks SW.

Happily, although just as long, most of this climb wasn’t quite as steep as what the American Dingo had just done.  Lupe enjoyed a pleasant romp in dazzling sunshine the rest of the way up.

Once on top, Loop found herself at a meadow near the low point of the entire ridge connecting Indian Peak and HP9582.  This was about where Trail No. 099 ought to have come up from the E, and where Trail No. 056 should have begun its descent into Lake Basin to the W, but she saw no sign of either one.  However, upon turning S to head for Indian Peak, the Carolina Dog quickly discovered a pile of trash beneath the first spruce trees she came to.

Another break was taken while SPHP gathered up all the miscellaneous trash for disposal later on.  Sadly, a pile of 10 aluminum and tin cans had to be left behind due to a lack of space in the pack.

Up on the ridge. Someone had left a pile of trash beneath the closest spruce trees. Photo looks S.

The ridge narrowed and steepened as Lupe continued S past the dump.  In some places, tightly-packed trees growing right along the crest of the ridge forced her to stay E out on the snow to get around them.  The ridge eventually turned SE, and broadened out.  Loopster traipsed up a bare, rather rocky, slope.

Climbing Indian Peak. Photo looks SE.

As she approached Indian Peak’s summit, the rate of climb diminished.  Gnarled, old trees, many of them dead, were scattered along the upper W slope.  Reaching the top, Lupe strode onto a huge snowbank wrapped around the N and E edges that covered most of a summit region 200+ feet long N/S, and 40 feet wide E/W.

Approaching Indian Peak’s summit. Photo looks SE.

11:37 AM, 63ºF, Indian Peak (9,683 ft.) – This snowbank was currently the mountain’s temporary true summit.  The American Dingo stood at the high point near the N end.  Far to the N, Grand Teton (13,770 ft.), Wyoming’s most famous mountain, soared into the blue.

Grand Teton (R of Center) from Indian Peak. Photo looks N.
Grand Teton (Center) with help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks N.

Tremendous views in all directions!  After a quick glance around, Lupe headed for a cairn visible at the S end.

The summit region from the snowbank. Photo looks SSE.

The cairn proved to be a loosely assembled pile of light-colored rocks.  No sign of any registry or survey benchmark.  Loopster laid down near the cairn, SPHP sitting beside her.

Relaxing by the loosely assembled cairn (L). Photo looks N.

Guess, this is it, Loop!  Congratulations on climbing Indian Peak, your last summit in the Snake River Range on this Dingo Vacation.

Smiling broadly, Lupe gently offered her sweet paw.  SPHP shook it.

Too bad this is the last one, SPHP!  This was the easiest mountain so far around here.  Didn’t take us long at all, and the views are just as good!

Yeah, but we’re about out of supplies now.  After this, we’re going to have to head back to the RAV4.  So, let’s enjoy Indian Peak while we can!  Chocolate coconut bar?  Last one!

Chocolate coconut bars are never a tough sell.  The last one vanished PDQ.  Looper also polished off the last of the Taste of the Wild supply.  SPHP munched away at the last apple.

Yet another perfect day!  For quite a while, Lupe curled up on SPHP’s lap, enjoying the splendid view of now familiar mountains to the S from a slightly different perspective.  Red Peak (9,771 ft.) was lined up almost directly behind Peak 9708.  An easy ridge walk led to both of them.

In the distance, Peak 9736 and Deadhorse Peak (9,783 ft.) were more to the R, Bradley Mountain (9,292 ft.) and Stewart Mountain (10,103 ft.) even more distant to the L.

Stewart Mountain (L), Peak 9708 with Red Peak (Center) beyond it, Peak 9736 (R) and Deadhorse Peak (far R.) Photo looks S.

To the SW was a great look at the South Fork of Indian Creek valley, with Caribou Mountain (9,803 ft.) on the horizon.

Peak 9736 (far L), Deadhorse Peak (L), South Fork of Indian Creek valley and Caribou Mountain (Center). Photo looks SW.

Eventually getting up to move around a bit, SPHP saw something shiny 40 feet down the SE slope.  Turned out to be a bottle of Koala Springs beer, still half full.  Emptying it onto the ground, the bottle got added to the rest of the trash stuffed in the pack.

Mount McDougal (10,780 ft.) and Triple Peak (11,127 ft.) could be made out far to the SSE, the Wind River Range, NE.  Obs Benchmark (9,935 ft.) was only 2 miles due W, and Observation Peak (9,960 ft.), where Lupe had been only yesterday, a similar distance NW.

Obs Benchmark (L) and Observation Peak (R). Photo looks WNW.

At a leisurely pace, trying to savor every moment, Lupe and SPHP toured the entire summit region.  As always, time flew.  Another short rest back at the S end by the cairn, and sadly, it was time.

Been up here over an hour, Looper.  Hate to say it, but we better move on.  Got a long way to go.

Do you really think we’ll get all the way back to the RAV4 tonight, SPHP?  Don’t you remember how long it took us to get up into this country?

Oh, don’t worry about that, Looper!  We’re going to take a different route.  This time, we’ll just find Trail No. 069, and follow it down the Dog Creek valley.  Downhill all the way!  Ought to be a snap.  You’ll see!

12:44 PM, Indian Peak – Lupe headed N along the W edge of the summit region.  A final glance back at the cairn where she’d spent most of her time up here, and she started down the NW slope, bound for the ridge leading N to HP9582.

Glancing back at the cairn (Center) before leaving Indian Peak. Photo looks S.
Obs Benchmark (L) and Observation Peak (R) as the descent begins. Photo looks WNW.
Heading down. HP9582 (Center), Grand Teton (far R). Photo looks N.

The descent was fantastic!  Everything was so beautiful!  Loop loved the snowy trek back to the icy tarn.  Varying her earlier route, she continued NE past the tarn, making rapid progress across a meadow.

About to leave the N ridge. Wolf Mountain (R). Photo looks NE.
Approaching the tarn. Photo looks NE.

Beyond the meadow, Lupe entered the snowy forest.  Losing elevation, she eventually found Trail No. 009 again, following it back down to the upper Dog Creek valley.  The Carolina Dog returned to the glen where the tiny house had been set up last night, so SPHP could retrieve it and the sleeping bags, already packed up and stashed among the trees.

Then it was back to the upper Dog Creek valley.  Following Trail No. 009 SE, it was bound to lead to Trail No. 069.

All was well!  Everything was going great, exactly as expected.  No snow down here to hide the trails.  Lupe roamed as she pleased, stopping to sniff wildflowers and anything else of interest, while SPHP made great strides on the downhill march.  After a while, an unmarked trail left an abandoned horse camp, heading NE deeper into the Dog Creek valley.

Had to be Trail No. 069, right?  No doubt about it!

Wildflowers in the Dog Creek valley.
Delicate purple flowers.

However, Trail No. 069 soon began to exhibit unexpected behavior.  Rather than staying down along the N bank of Dog Creek as shown on the map, the trail ran along slopes S of the stream, often well above it.

Worse, every time another tributary had to be crossed, there was a drop, followed by a steep 40 foot climb.  Not such a big deal, but enough to be annoying, when tired and a nice, smooth, easy march down the valley had been anticipated.

On the S bank, temporarily close to Dog Creek. Photo looks SW.

The trail crossed Dog Creek a couple of times early on while it was still small, but the stream grew fast as tributaries added to the flow.  There was so much up and down, that SPHP mentally began to keep a running total of Lupe’s estimated extra elevation gain.

2 miles from the horse camp, Lupe was on a steep slope S of Dog Creek, about 200 feet above it, when Trail No. 069 curved R around a bend into a steep snow-filled ravine.  The trail appeared level as it traversed this ravine.  Once beyond it, everything still seemed fine, but the trail soon began to fade amid dense vegetation.

Up until now, the trail had been easy to follow.  Expecting it would soon improve, SPHP pressed on, Lupe now following on the steep slope.  The trail did improve, but only for a little way.  Suddenly it was gone!

Lupe was approaching the narrowest, deepest, most steep-sided part of the entire Dog Creek valley, a wilderness of old forest, huge deadfall, and lush vegetation.  Progress slowed to a crawl as SPHP thrashed through the jungle.  Loopster began hanging back.  Playing her stalking game, the American Dingo refused to follow unless SPHP was out of sight.

You’re nuts, SPHP!  This can’t be right!

I know that now, Loop, but we’ve already lost a bunch of elevation.  Let’s try to get down to Dog Creek.  We must have missed a turn back at that ravine.  The trail must be somewhere over on the N side of the valley now.

It sure wasn’t over here, but getting down to Dog Creek wasn’t easy.  SPHP chickened out on a slope so steep that a fall seemed inevitable.  A desperate, clinging climb back up, only to try again a little farther on.  This time it worked, barely.  Fording Dog Creek, Lupe scrambled 100 feet up an almost equally steep slope on the N bank before … yes!  The trail!

Having lost a fair amount of time, but feeling confident again, it was:

Onward!  Puppy, ho!

That wasn’t the end of the problems, though.  More discouraging uphill sections, tough when hungry and weary, but the deadfall was the worst.  Not a huge amount, but far from uncommon, too.  The dingdong deadfall often forced steep climbs around not only the tree fallen over the trail, but others forming a long wall above or below it.  Rinse and repeat every so often, each effort sapping energy and causing additional delay.

The trail eventually dropped down to Dog Creek.  A ford, a dangerous one!  Only knee deep on SPHP, but flowing fast straight into rocky rapids and deadfall.  SPHP could manage, but what about Lupe?  Neck deep against a powerful current, she’d get swept away, battered mercilessly against the rocks, and pinned helplessly against deadfall.  The water a deadly, relentless force, she’d drown.

Carrying Loopster across was out of the question.  The rocky creekbed was too uneven, SPHP would need hands free in order to use poles just to maintain balance.

What are we going to do, SPHP?

Mount McDougal, Loop.

Mount McDougal!  What is that supposed to mean?

Just like we did there, I’m going to leash you up, Looper.  You’ll have to swim.  I’ll hang on to the leash, so you don’t get swept downstream.  Won’t let go for anything!  Promise!  It’s not that far, you’ll be across in no time.  I’ll help pull you through.

SPHP started across first.  Worried, but trusting SPHP completely, Loop plunged into the frigid water on command.  Worked!  Seconds later, the Carolina Dog was shaking herself off on the S bank.

Gah!  Right around the next bend, another equally dangerous ford.  Poor Lupe had to do it again!

High on a very steep slope N of Dog Creek, Lupe came to a tree fallen over the trail.  Clearly, no way around this one, the slopes both above and below it were nearly cliffs.  Forcing a way through the multitude of branches levitating the trunk was mandatory.  Loop managed easily enough, but SPHP had a heck of a time squeezing through.

A mile and 500 feet of lost elevation beyond this trouble spot, stopped in fading light for a breather, a sudden, sickening realization.

Ugh, Loop!  I’m sorry!  We have to go back!

Back where, SPHP?

To that blasted tree!

The one with all the branches?  Why?

Yeah.  I forgot the camera.  Almost certain I left it hanging on a branch, while strapping the pack back on.  Entirely my fault, Loop, but we can’t lose it.

Wearily, back up the valley.  Sure enough, the camera was there.  Grab and go!  Right back down the same mile for the 3rd time.

Camera retrieved, as light faded even from the mountaintops, Lupe quit playing her stalking game.  Suddenly she seemed energized, leading the way, leaping over deadfall, often far ahead of SPHP, pausing frequently to look back to make certain SPHP was still coming.

Dog Creek valley was longer than SPHP ever imagined.  Trail No. 069 went on and on.  Two more fords appeared in rapid succession, but weren’t as threatening.  Lupe crossed both on her own.  Eventually, the valley broadened out.  No more significant uphill sections!  Loopster traveled through tunnels of dense vegetation shoulder high on SPHP.

The sun was down.  Signs appeared at junctions!  One for the Little Dog Creek Trail, the other for the Cabin Creek Trail.  SPHP kept watching for the unmarked side trail Lupe had followed into Beaver Dam Canyon 3 days ago, but never saw it.  Stars appeared.  The little flashlight came out.  Traveling fast, with nothing to eat since Indian Peak, Lupe was a star herself!  Always leading, never fading, or falling back.

10:21 PM, Dog Creek trailhead – Suddenly, it was over!  The RAV4 sat alone, patiently waiting at the trailhead.  Lupe couldn’t wait to leap onto her pink blanket when SPHP opened the door.  Instead of falling asleep, she licked her paws until SPHP fed her, inhaling a whole can of Ol’ Roy.

SPHP was dead tired, but couldn’t stand being in filthy, sopping-wet boots.  Driving to the Pritchard Boat ramp, SPHP washed sore feet in the Snake River before donning night socks and the old Merrell slippers.  It was nearly midnight by the time a weary American Dingo returned to the dark, quiet Dog Creek trailhead to pass out for the night.

Good thing SPHP had no inkling ahead of time what Trail No. 069 and the Dog Creek valley were going to be like.  Loopster never would have climbed beautiful Indian Peak (9,683 ft.)!

On Indian Peak, Snake River Range, Wyoming 6-26-22

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