The Pinnell Mountain National Recreation Trail, Alaska – Part 2: Porcupine Dome to Pinnell Mountain (9-2-22)

Part 2 of Day 35 & Day 36 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

9-2-22. 4:58 PM, 44ºF – Porcupine Dome’s W slope was steep, but a wide swath of tundra made the descent fast and easy all the way.

Heading down Porcupine Dome’s W slope. Pinnell Mountain (L), HP4740 (Center). Photo looks W.

After losing hundreds of feet of elevation, the American Dingo rejoined the Pinnell Mountain National Recreation Trail, which wound down to the next broad saddle leading W toward HP4740.  At the low point, a huge, partly damp region of grass and tundra, SPHP called a halt.

Wait up, Loop!

What for, SPHP?

Want to start a new GPS track for your Pinnell Mountain (4,934 ft.) ascent.

You stopped the Porcupine Dome (4,915 ft.) ascent GPS track, SPHP?  Why did you do that?

So I could turn the iPhone off for a while, and save battery life.  Anyway, we’re good to go now.  Onward!  Puppy, ho!

After crossing the saddle, a steady, gradual climb began.  Glancing back, Porcupine Dome looked fairly impressive from here.

Glancing back at Porcupine Dome. Photo looks E.

The enormous slope Lupe was climbing slowly narrowed.  Now and then the trail featured a lone switchback.  The terrain grew rockier, as both grass and tundra began to fade.  Nearly 0.75 mile from the low point W of Porcupine Dome, 2 more switchbacks finally got the American Dingo up onto a small ridge at the base of a much larger dark high point.

Still rising as it continued W, the trail traversed a rock slide on its way to a flatter region where a couple more high points were in view.

HP4740 (R) from the small ridge. Photo looks W.

Wow, I’m liking this, SPHP!  Most interesting part of the trail yet!  Other than our side excursion up Porcupine Dome, of course.

Yeah, this is great!  A little more rugged looking.  That high point on the R must be HP4740.  The trail should take us almost right to it.

Approaching the rockiest part of the traverse. HP4740 (R). Photo looks W.

Beyond the dark high point, Lupe entered a huge, flat region of scattered rocks and sparse tundra.  Pinnell Mountain  (4,934 ft.) was back in sight to the SW.  The trail became harder to discern as it continued W toward HP4740, where exposed layers of rock looked increasingly interesting as the Carolina Dog got closer.  Cairns continued to mark the general route, which was self-evident, anyway.

Glancing back at Porcupine Dome (L), and the dark high point (Center) after traversing its N slope. Photo looks E.
Pinnell Mountain (L), HP4740 (R). Photo looks WSW.
Closing in on HP4740 (R of Center). Photo looks W.

Some of the rock formations on the way to HP4740 were pretty cool.  Lupe scrambled up onto one of the first ones she came to.

Exploring one of the first rock formations reached E of HP4740. Photo looks N.
Porcupine Dome (Center) from the same spot. Photo looks E.

The Pinnell Mountain trail went almost clear to the top of HP4740.  The highest rock proved to be a large diameter flat stone in a region full of similar ones.  Naturally, Lupe paused to visit the true summit.

Porcupine Dome (Center) from HP4740. Photo looks E.
At the true summit of HP4740. Photo looks WNW.

Continuing W, the trail quickly led to another interesting rock formation that was only slightly lower.  This formation had such vertical sides that SPHP had to give the Carolina Dog a boost to get her up onto the highest rock, which was shaped rather like the cap of a giant mushroom.

Pinnell Mountain (L) and Mushroom Rock (R) from HP4740. Photo looks WSW.
On Mushroom Rock. Photo looks W.
Pinnell Mountain (L) from Mushroom Rock. Photo looks SW.

Mushroom Rock wasn’t too far from the W end of the HP4740 region.  Beyond the last remaining rock formations, the trail switchbacked SW down to the giant saddle leading to Pinnell Mountain.  By the time the American Dingo got there, she’d lost close to 300 feet of elevation.

About to head down to the saddle to Pinnell Mountain (Center). Photo looks SW.

9-2-22, 7:00 PM, saddle between HP4740 and Pinnell Mountain

This is it!  I’m done, SPHP!  Not going any farther.  It’s been nearly 9 hours since we left Eagle Summit, and although the trail’s been great, there’s also been a ton of up and down along the way.  I’m tired and hungry.

Me, too, Loop, but we really need to get to Pinnell Mountain this evening.  Planned on stopping here for a little while, anyway, though, so I can set up the tiny house.  Lots of nice soft tundra here, and I don’t feel like lugging it clear to the top of Pinnell Mountain.  Meanwhile, you can take a break.

As soon as SPHP had the tiny house set up, Lupe went in.  Heaving a great sigh, she laid down on her red sleeping bag and closed her eyes.  Really did look like the Carolina Dog was done!  However, when SPHP dug a can of Ol’ Roy out of the pack, she promptly devoured the entire contents, which produced a dramatic change in demeanor.

Thank you, SPHP!  That hit the spot!  Feel much better.  We can keep going now, if you like.

Better do it while we’ve got the chance, Loop.  No telling what tomorrow will bring.

Pinnell Mountain was still 0.5 mile away, and 500 feet higher.  Happily, progress was rapid on the springy tundra of the flat saddle region.  The trail climbed only during the last 0.25 mile, eventually switchbacking up the steepest part shortly before reaching the top.

Heading up Pinnell Mountain. Photo looks SW.
Getting close to the top. Photo looks SSW.
Hmm. A bit farther than it looked. Almost there! Photo looks SW.

9-2-22, 7:56 PM, 42ºF – The sun was already getting low, and a chill 15-20 mph wind was blowing out of the NE, by the time Lupe reached the top of Pinnell Mountain (4,934 ft.).  The summit region was another plain of rocks and tundra, at least an acre or two in size.  At first glance, the highest rocks appeared to be close to where the Carolina Dog came up.

Pinnell Mountain summit region. Photo looks S.
In the wind at what initially seemed to be the true summit. Photo looks S.

However, a rock formation along the NW edge of the plateau topped by a large, flat stone soon caught SPHP’s attention.

You know what, Loop?  That may actually be the true summit over there.  C’mon!  Let’s get a picture.

Fine, SPHP, but then let’s find a spot to escape this wind!

Pinnell Mountain’s true summit. Crazy Mountains (R) in the distance. Photo looks N.

After a brief visit to the likely true summit, the American Dingo headed SW across the summit plain.  20 feet down the slope beyond the W edge, the wind wasn’t nearly as bad.  This was a great spot to hang out for a while.  Beneath the gray sky, the views were fabulous!

An enormous ridge with many offshoots snaked away to the WSW for miles.  This entire system was bare, sparsely covered only with grass, rock, and tundra.  Other than a bumpy section vaguely resembling the spine of a sea serpent some 2 or 3 miles away, none of the ridges were rugged.  They were all just big and rounded.

HP4721 (Center), Table Mountain (R of Center) in the distance. Photo looks SW.
HP4721 (far L), Table Mountain (L). Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.

So, the Pinnell Mountain National Recreation Trail keeps following this long ridge, SPHP?

Yup.  Winds along another 18 miles before reaching Twelvemile Summit, Looper.

That would be so much fun, SPHP!  Clearly a lot of up and down involved, but all as easy as pie.  That knobby area looks interesting.

The stretch that looks like the back of a Stegosaurus is HP4721, Loop.

Isn’t HP4721 the summit you thought might actually be Pinnell Mountain before we got to Porcupine Dome, SPHP?

Yeah, just an illusion, though, Loopster.  We’re definitely higher here.  This is Pinnell Mountain, alright.  In the distance to the R of HP4721, do you see that rounded hill connected to a flat area a bit farther R?

I do.  What about it, SPHP?

That’s Table Mountain (4,472 ft.), highest point toward the W end of the trail.  Maybe someday we’ll get there, Loop.

At least, we’ve made it to Pinnell Mountain, SPHP!  That ought to be worth something!

Like maybe a chocolate coconut bar, Looper?

Great minds think alike, SPHP!

After shaking Lupe’s paw, congratulating her on her successful ascent of Pinnell Mountain, SPHP produced the second chocolate coconut bar of the day, which promptly met the same fate as the first one did back at Porcupine Dome.  Beef jerky spiced the celebration up a bit more before it was over, then Lupe curled up on SPHP’s lap.

Even mostly out of the wind, it was on the chilly side.  The sun was low in the W.  Hidden behind layers of clouds, its light was already fading.  Lupe enjoyed a grand panoramic view of all points W.  Although black forests were visible deep in the valleys, not a single tree grew up on the vast network of ridges.  Countless mountains were in sight, but only a few looked any higher than Pinnell Mountain, and they were far away.

Nothing moved.  The world was empty, and other than the wind, quiet.  After a while, the sky developed a yellow layer on the far horizon.  Wisps of fog suddenly appeared from behind.  Engulfing Pinnell Mountain, they momentarily hid everything before sailing off to the SW.

Evening light on the distant horizon. Photo looks W with help from the telephoto lens.

Gaps in the cloud layers, SPHP!  Maybe there’s going to be a sweet sunset?

If we’re lucky, Loopster.  Let’s stick around, and see what develops.

The sun was evidently higher than SPHP thought, but it finally looked like patience might be rewarded.  An awful lot of clouds around, though.  Could the sun actually break through?  The yellow band brightened, the tops of the lowest clouds began to glow.

Awaiting sunset from Pinnell Mountain.

9-2-22, 8:40 PM – Standing alone in the cold breeze, the American Dingo was waiting at Pinnell Mountain’s true summit when the first slanting rays of sunshine broke through the clouds.

Sunset from Pinnell Mountain.

Perfect, Looper!  Oh, it’s spectacular!

No way was it going to last very long, though.  Happily, the Carolina Dog fully cooperated in SPHP’s mad dash about while trying to capture these fleeting, crowning moments of her long journey to Pinnell Mountain.

To the E, Porcupine Dome (4,915 ft.) was all lit up, a bright reflection like an evening star dancing off the solar panel Lupe had seen earlier.

HP4740 (L), Porcupine Dome (R). Photo looks E.
Porcupine Dome (Center) from Pinnell Mountain. Photo looks E.

The layered rocks of the true summit perched right along the edge of the mountain were a dramatic and beautiful setting.

On Pinnell Mountain amid the alpenglow. Photo looks WSW.

All too quickly, the magic began to fade.

Getting back to reality at the true summit. Photo looks WSW.
The evening solar panel star atop Porcupine Dome. Photo looks E with help from the telephoto lens.

Over already?  Shucks!  10 minutes of incredible, and that was it.

The grand finale winds down.

And then suddenly the sky brightened again.  Magic returned!  Against a brilliantly glowing orange and yellow sky, Lupe’s dark form, now also faintly glowing around the edges, levitated among the clouds, as though at any moment she might easily dash off through the heavens.

Magic on Pinnell Mountain.

9-2-22, 8:58 PM – The big show wasn’t entirely over yet, when nearly an hour after arriving, Lupe started back down the Pinnell Mountain trail.  SPHP hoped there might be a pink or red phase of the sunset coming, but if there was one, it couldn’t be seen from where the trail switchbacked down the NE side of the mountain.

Heading down. Porcupine Dome (L). Photo looks SE.

9-2-22, 9:13 PM – There was still some light in the sky when Lupe arrived back at the tiny house in the enormous saddle NE of Pinnell Mountain.  The NE wind had blown the entire way down the mountain, and the leading edge of a long, dark line of clouds was now overhead.

Nearly back to the tiny house. Photo looks ENE.

A long and successful day on the Pinnell Mountain trail had ended in glory.  Despite near exhaustion, before retreating into the tiny house for dinner and a well-deserved rest, Lupe paused to appreciate the pastel sky still glowing in the W.

End of a fabulous day.

On this cold Alaska evening, the weary Carolina Dog finally settled down all wrapped up, safe and warm, in her red sleeping bag.  Five minutes later came the sound of the first raindrops falling on the tiny house.

9-3-22, the wee hours, 0.5 mile NE of Pinnell Mountain – The rain started so slowly and softly, that at first SPHP wasn’t certain if it really was rain, or just the tiny house rustling in the breeze.  However, that mystery eventually cleared up.  Rained rather hard for hours.  All over and done with now, but the night was black as pitch.  The weak flashlight beam barely penetrated the dense fog to where Lupe was busy rolling on the frigid, sopping wet tundra, apparently thoroughly enjoying herself.

Going to be fun finding our way back to Eagle Summit in this pea soup, SPHP!

Eh, we’ll be fine, Loop, as long as the rain doesn’t start up again.  Got a trail to follow with cairns marking the way, plus GPS tracks, if needed.

Oh, that’s right!  Forgot about the iPhone, SPHP.  It’s like cheating versus how we’ve always done things before.

As long as the battery lasts, it does come in handy, though.  Can certainly understand why the rest of the world has been using smartphones for years.  Anyway, it’s cold out.  Come back into the tiny house, Loopster.  Don’t want you wandering around out here alone on such a foggy night.

The American Dingo went right back to sleeping like a rock, but SPHP had a harder time of it, laying in the darkness listening to the tiny house flap in the breeze.  Every now and then, a particularly wicked gust made everything shake.

9-3-22, 6:59 AM, 0.5 mile NE of Pinnell Mountain

Soon as you’re done with that Taste of the Wild, I’ll pack everything up, and we’ll be on our way, Looper.

What’s it like outside, SPHP?  Have you looked?

Still cold and foggy, but it isn’t raining, so we’re going to take advantage of this opportunity.  The farther we can get while staying dry, the better.

Toasty warm until breakfast is over.

9-3-22, 7:35 PM, 0.5 mile NE of Pinnell Mountain – The pack ready, SPHP’s fingers were freezing.  In a gray fog, Lupe stood next to the dry patch of tundra where the tiny house had been only minutes ago.

About ready to leave camp. A descent representation of what much of the return was like, too.

Hey, it was fun, but let’s get some circulation going!  Onward!  Puppy, ho!

It was nearly 9 miles back to Eagle Summit.  Foggy all the way, although it was usually possible to see 100 to 200 yards.  In the HP4740 region where the trail was faint, the cairns were tremendous aides.

Approaching Porcupine Dome, the fog suddenly cleared, but not for long.  Within minutes, Porky vanished again.  Reaching the base of the mountain, Lupe started up.  SPHP called her back.  Really no point in it under these conditions.

Mist and light rain eventually set in.  The Carolina Dog got soaking wet, but it didn’t seem to bother her in the least.  The trail went on and on, and so did Lupe, pausing only when SPHP stopped for breathers on the uphill sections.

9-3-22, 12:23 PM, Eagle Summit – The Pinnell Mountain adventure finally came to a sodden, anti-climactic end.  Lupe reached the RAV4 amid fog and light rain, thrilled to leap up onto her pink blanket again.  Stashing the gear, SPHP then conjured a veritable feast, including what remained of the lemon pepper roasted chicken, Ritz crackers, and cheese.

Outside, a dreary world remained the same, foggy and wet.

No point in staying for Mastodon Dome (4,418 ft.) tomorrow, is there, SPHP?

Doesn’t look like it, Loop.  Maybe someday.  We still have 2/3 of the Pinnell Mountain National Recreation Trail to do, too, you know.

Something to look forward to, SPHP!  We’ll be back!

Who knows?  The future is uncertain.  If it happens, what a glorious day that will be!

SPHP turned the key, and the RAV4 sprang to life.  Turning W onto the Steese Highway moments later, the windshield wipers slapped away the mist, as the heater began warming the cabin.  Smiling, Lupe gazed ahead along the muddy road to new adventures yet to come.  (1:37 PM)

Sunset from Pinnell Mountain, Alaska 9-2-22

Links:

Next Adventure                     Prior Adventure

The Pinnell Mountain National Recreation Trail – Part 1: Eagle Summit to Porcupine Dome (9-2-22)

Lupe’s Pinnell Mountain GPS Track

Lupe’s Porcupine Dome GPS Track

Pinnell Mountain National Recreation Trail

Want more Lupe adventures?  Choose from Lupe’s Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacations to Wyoming, Canada & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index.  Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

The Pinnell Mountain National Recreation Trail, Alaska – Part 1: Eagle Summit to Porcupine Dome (9-2-22)

Part 1 of Day 35 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

8:08 AM, 50ºF – Traveling ENE up the Chatanika River valley, the Steese Highway was beautiful, all paved and striped.  The river was seldom in sight, both sides of the valley flanked by heavily-forested, rounded hills.

Leaves were just beginning to turn yellow, quite a switch after coming from the Brooks Range where fall was already well advanced.  Although patches of blue existed, the sky was 95% overcast.

Sure don’t make sunny days like they used to, SPHP!

Yeah, I don’t know what’s up with this, Loop.  The forecast was for full sun in Fairbanks today.  Maybe it will clear off at some point?

Scarcely any traffic, and less and less as the road wound along the base of the hills.  After passing MP 81, everything changed.  The pavement ended, as the Steese Highway turned to hard-packed dirt and gravel.  A steady climb out of the valley was underway.  Dark clouds, fog, mist, and mud greeted Lupe at Twelvemile Summit.

We’re not in Fairbanks anymore, SPHP.

Evidently not, Looper.  Starting to shake my faith in this entire endeavor.  We’ve come so far already, though, that we might as well keep going.  See what develops.

Beyond Twelvemile Summit, the Steese Highway dropped below the clouds again and dried out quite a bit.  Another valley was in sight, along with some of the hills around it.  The American Dingo started catching glimpses of higher hills whose summits were above treeline, and the highway began to climb again.

9:21 AM, 41ºF, Steese Highway MP 107, Eagle Summit – A chilly breeze swept over a barren landscape.  No trees at all, and scarcely any bushes worth mentioning.  The summit of the big hill beyond Lupe was partially obscured by fog.  Moments later, the entire hill vanished.

Arriving at Eagle Summit. Photo looks W.

A short access road led to a huge, completely empty, wet parking lot.  An outhouse stood along one edge, and a nice sign for the Pinnell Mountain National Recreation Trail along another.

You might as well snooze, Loop.  I’m just going to work on the trip journal for a while.  We aren’t going anywhere if conditions don’t improve.

Dark, dreary, breezy, damp, and cold!  Amid thick fog and mist, it was impossible to see from one end of the parking lot to the other.

10:20 AM, 41ºF, MP107, Eagle Summit Wayside – Suddenly brighter again.

Blue sky to the NE, SPHP!  The clouds are breaking up!

Now or never then, Looper!  Pinnell Mountain (4,934 ft.) is 9 miles one way, and we’re getting a late start.  Need to get there today, too, if we want to have a shot at seeing anything from there.  Weather is supposed to be lousy tomorrow.  This is the good day!

Onward, SPHP!  Let’s go!

Suddenly clearing skies from the Eagle Summit parking lot. Photo looks NE.
Start of the Pinnell Mountain National Recreation Trail. HP3900 (L). Photo looks W.

The Pinnell Mountain National Recreation Trail began with a nature trail loop with a few displays along it.  Leaving the parking lot, Lupe took the path angling to the R, which was the long way, but not much of a detour.  SPHP paused to read each display, which didn’t take long at all.

Lupe soon reached the spot where the main trail began switchbacking W up HP3900, the first big hill.

275 feet of elevation gain would get Lupe to the top, but the trail divided shortly before getting there.  The main trail went R, beginning a gradual descent.  Naturally, the peakbagging Dingo took the spur trail going L to the summit.  She was there in no time.

Eagle Summit (Center) and the Steese Highway from HP3900. Photo looks E.

11:30 AM – The top of HP3900 was a roomy, almost flat region of small rocks and scant vegetation.  A survey benchmark fastened to a pipe stood 6″ above the rest of the plain.

The HP3900 survey benchmark.

Happily, conditions were continuing to improve.  Not much of a breeze at all now, and while most of the sky remained very cloudy, all the mist and fog were gone, revealing a vast landscape of enormous, barren hills and ridges.

Hey, Loop!  See that hill to the SE?  Bet that’s Mastodon Dome (4,418 ft.)!

Mastodon Dome (Center) from the HP3900 survey benchmark. Photo looks SE.

Mastodon Dome?  We ought to go there, SPHP!  Seeing a mastodon would be even better than the musk oxen along the Dalton Highway!

It’s on you list of possibilities, Looper.  Looks easy to get there, too.  We’ll visit Mastodon Dome in a couple of days, if the weather’s decent after we get back from Pinnell Mountain.

Oh, I hope so, SPHP!  Ought to be a cinch spotting a mastodon up here!  How awesome would that be?

Literally unbelievably awesome, Loop!  In fact, look around.  I’m thinking this entire Pinnell Mountain trail is going to be awesome, too.  Started out in the tundra above tree line, and it looks like it’s going to be that way along the whole route.  Amazing Alaskan views every step of the way!

Reminds me a little of a cross between the N side of the Brooks Range, and the North Slope, SPHP.  We’ll have a blast up here!

Yes, we will!  I suppose we better keep going, but let me have a look at the map first, Loop.  OK.  I get it.  See that distant big hill off to NW?

You mean the one that’s still in the clouds, SPHP?

Yes.  That must be our first objective, Porcupine Dome (4,915 ft.).

Peak 4350 (L), Porcupine Dome (Center), HP4351 (R) from HP3900. Photo looks NW.

Porcupine Dome!  Sounds dangerous, SPHP.

Yeah, we’d be better off running into mastodons than porcupines, Looper.  This doesn’t really look much like porcupine territory, if you ask me, but if you do happen to see any, stay far away from them.

Looking down on the enormous region leading NW to Peak 4350, a dark track scarred the tundra.  The Pinnell Mountain trail was down there, too, but harder to pick out.  Leaving HP3900, Lupe returned to the main trail.  Following it down the NW slope, she soon came to a double plank boardwalk.

NW of HP3900 back on the Pinnell Mountain trail. Peak 4350 (R). Photo looks WNW.

Bottoming out, the trail began a slow climb, crossing the dark track Lupe had seen from HP3900, which turned out to be a muddy ATV route.  In addition to the two plank boardwalk, the Pinnell Mountain trail featured sections of plastic grid.  At first they were filled with gravel, but later on the grid spaces were empty, forcing Lupe to stay on the tundra instead.

Glancing back at HP3900 (Center), Mastodon Dome (R). Photo looks SE.

Both the boardwalks and grids appeared to be relatively new.  Stacks of  lumber and other supplies for trail improvement sat wrapped in plastic strung out along the tundra.

There seemed to be an awful lot of other human made distractions along this part of the trail, too.  Wooden stakes and strings roped off vegetation restoration areas.  Frequent brown “No Motor Vehicle” wands were right along the trail, and bright yellow wands stood in parallel lines 40 feet from each side.  Orange plastic webbed fencing served as barriers.

In addition to all this new stuff, there were older, less offensive trail markers, too.  Every so often Lupe passed cairns featuring either a tall narrow stone standing on end, or a wooden pole with peeling paint.

The Pinnell Mountain trail headed NW toward Peak 4350 along what amounted to a very broad ridge.  Halfway there, it passed near a minor rocky high point.  Lupe ventured over to it.  Another gradual descent lay beyond this point.

Peak 4350 (L), Porcupine Dome (Center), HP4351 (R). Photo looks NW.

The entire trek to Peak 4350 was easy.  Near it, the trail began climbing again.  However, Lupe wasn’t destined to get anywhere close to the top.  Instead, the trail swept along the E side around to the N slope, topping out at a NE corner still hundreds of feet below the summit.

Mastodon Dome (Center) from the lower E slope of Peak 4350. Photo looks SE.
HP4740 (far L), Porcupine Dome (L), HP4351 (R) from the Pinnell Mountain trail high point on Peak 4350. Photo looks NW.
Grognon Gulch and the Bonanza Creek valley from the Pinnell Mountain trail HP on Peak 4350. Photo looks NE.

The trail was level or descended gradually during most of the traverse of Peak 4350’s N slope.  New territory came into view as it began curving N toward the huge saddle leading to HP4351 along Porcupine Dome’s long E ridge.  Looking WNW across the upper Ptarmigan Creek valley, Pinnell Mountain (4,934 ft.) and a couple of other high points were in sight.

Traversing the N slope of Peak 4350. Pinnell Mountain (L), HP4740 (Center), Porcupine Dome (R). Photo looks NW.

Crossing the saddle leading to HP4351, SPHP became confused as more high points continued to appear.

Huh.  Wow!  Do we really have to go all that way, Loop?  Thought I knew which peak was Pinnell Mountain, but now I’m not so sure.  That peak to the W looks even higher than the dome I’ve been thinking was it.

It’s a long way off, SPHP.  Is Pinnell Mountain that far from Porcupine Dome?

According to the map, Pinnell is just 2.5+ miles WSW of Porcupine Dome as the crow flies, Loopster.

That peak to the W seems farther than that, SPHP.

Yeah, I know, but doesn’t it look like the highest one around to you, Loop?  Pinnell Mountain is the highest point along the entire Pinnell Mountain National Recreation Trail.

Could be an optical illusion, SPHP.  Happens in the mountains.  Anyway, let’s keep going.  We’ll figure it out.

N of Peak 4350 heading for HP4351 (Center). Photo looks N.
HP4453 (L), HP4721 (Center), Pinnell Mountain R. Photo looks W.

No matter which peak was actually Pinnell Mountain, the scenery was fantastic!  Tremendous open vistas greeted Lupe in all directions as she trotted along the low tundra, now enhanced by the lack of most signs of human activity.  On the way to HP4351, all the wands, fenced off areas, and stacks of supplies had been left behind SE of Peak 4350.

There were still cairns with their tall stones or wooden posts, a short two plank boardwalk, and a few more plastic grids, but these were much less intrusive.  The world looked unspoiled here, always a good look!

Beyond the last boardwalks and plastic grids, the trail dipped before starting up to HP4351.  Loopster came to a grassy wet region where boardwalks would have been helpful, but they didn’t extend this far.  No big deal, though.  Although the trail went right through the soggiest area, the worst of it was easily avoided by staying a bit farther E.  Meanwhile, Lupe enjoyed helping herself to drinks from various pools of water.

From the low point of the dip, the Carolina Dog had to gain more than 650 feet of elevation to get up to HP4351.  The trail was in great shape, though, and much firmer here.  Two sets of switchbacks separated by a fairly level stretch made the climb even easier than it looked.

On the relatively flat stretch between the switchbacks. HP4351 (Center). Photo looks N.
Porcupine Dome (L) from the upper switchbacks. Photo looks NW.

The top of HP4351 was a big flat region of sparse tundra strewn with rocks.  The actual high point was over by the NW end where 3 distinct rock outcroppings 10 or 20 feet higher than the rest of the plateau stood lined up along the NE edge.

On HP4351. Summit (L) beyond Lupe. Photo looks NW.

Although no difference in elevation compared to Peak 4350 should have been discernable, looking back, SPHP had the impression that HP4351 was definitely somewhat higher.  No doubt, this was mere illusion, too.

Glancing back at Peak 4350 (Center). Photo looks S.

1:56 PM, HP4351 – The Pinnell Mountain National Recreation trail went right past the 3 rocky high points.  Naturally, the Carolina Dog scrambled up onto the middle one, which was clearly highest, for a look around.

Porcupine Dome (L) from the top of HP4351. Photo looks NW.

It had turned into a really nice day.  Still lots of clouds around, but plenty of blue sky, too.  All the mountains were beneath the clouds now.  Lupe could see many miles in all directions.  To the W, both Pinnell Mountain candidates were visible well past Porcupine Dome.  SPHP still wasn’t sure which was the real Pinnell Mountain.

HP4721 (L), Pinnell Mountain (L of Center), and Porcupine Dome (R of Center). Photo looks W.

The view to the NE was interesting, too.  A line of dark blue mountains was in sight well beyond red and green hills.  Those distant peaks were the Crazy Mountains.  They looked to be similar in elevation, but were actually lower than the domes and ridges around here.

The Crazy Mountains on the horizon. Bonanza Creek valley (R). Photo looks NE.

Although getting to HP4351 hadn’t been hard at all, Lupe was miles from the start now, and there had been a fair amount of up and down along the way, even if net elevation gain thus far was still less than 750 feet.  SPHP proposed a short rest break, which seemed like a great idea to the American Dingo, too.

This is really a terrific trail, SPHP!  Love how we got to start out way up on the open tundra.

Yeah!  Would be fun to do the entire trail sometime, Loop.  Bet it’s like this the whole way.  It stays up on these big ridges hitting quite a few peaks.

The trail doesn’t end at Pinnell Mountain, SPHP?

Oh, no!  That’s just how far I’m hoping we can get on our one day of decent weather.  The Pinnell Mountain National Recreation trail is 27 miles long, the W end being clear over at Twelvemile Summit, which we passed on the Steese Highway on the way here.  We’re only going to be doing about a third of the entire trail, Looper.

Too bad it’s supposed to rain, SPHP.  We could do the whole thing now!

That would be awesome, Loopster, but we aren’t prepared for that.  Had no idea ahead of time that this would be so cool!  I was actually expecting an endless traipse through a forest, hoping we might eventually catch some views from the summits.

Well, this is pretty unique, SPHP.  We could roam these big ridges and domes forever!

Makes one want to do that, doesn’t it?  Well, we’re here now, and have all day!  C’mon!  Onward!  Puppy, ho!

From HP4351, the Pinnell Mountain trail continued NW, starting another gradual descent.  Following a broad ridge, it curved W directly toward Porcupine Dome (4,915 ft.).  The trail bottomed at a big grassy region.  After crossing it, Lupe began regaining elevation again.

Porcupine Dome from the grassy region. Photo looks W.

An easy romp up to 4,400 feet got Lupe nearly to the base of Porcupine Dome, but instead of continuing up it, the trail veered SW.

E face of Porcupine Dome. Photo looks W.

The Pinnell Mountain trail doesn’t go to the top, SPHP?

No, not of Porcupine Dome, Loop.  It swings around the S side over to the W end, then just keeps going.

Well, we’re going to climb Porcupine Dome, aren’t we?  Doesn’t look that hard.  How much higher is it, SPHP?

Only another 500+ feet.  Of course, we’re going to climb Porcupine, Looper, but this is the steepest side.  According to the topo map, looks like we’d be better off going up from the SW or W.  Shouldn’t be quite as steep there.  I’m sure we could tackle it from here, but I’m carrying a fairly heavy pack.  Mind if we just stick with the trail a little farther?

That’s fine, SPHP, as long as we get to the summit!

The Pinnell Mountain trail dipped a bit as Lupe started around the S side of Porcupine Dome.  She soon reached a rocky region where large, flat stones had been arranged to make the route easier.  Many of these rocks hadn’t been braced at all, and were a bit tippy.  Nothing to worry about, as long as one was prepared for it.

Traversing the SE side of Porcupine Dome. Photo looks SW.
On the frequently tippy flat rock section. Peak 4350 (L). Photo looks SSW.

After an initial descent, the trail began regaining elevation.  By the time Lupe made it to the SW side of the mountain, she was already at 4,500 feet.  Porcupine Dome was grassier here, and the view to the W finally dispelled any doubt as to which peak was actually Pinnell Mountain.

That more distant peak is HP4721 out along Pinnell Mountain’s W ridge, Loop.  Actually more than 200 feet lower!  Amazing how one’s perspective can create such illusions.  Cleary looked higher earlier on.

So Pinnell Mountain is the next summit, or the middle one, SPHP?

The middle one.  The closest one is HP4740.  We’ll be visiting both, but first it’s time for Porcupine Dome!

HP4721 (L), Pinnell Mountain (L of Center), HP 4740 (R of Center). Photo looks W.

From what appeared to be about the high point of the trail on the WSW side of the mountain, Lupe started up Porcupine Dome.  Even over here, the slope was rather steep.  Nothing too difficult, though!  Most of the way, the Carolina Dog was able to climb on tundra, although higher up she eventually had to scramble on moderate-sized rocks covered with black lichens.

After gaining 250 feet of elevation, a dark ridge appeared ahead.

Approaching the dark ridge. Photo looks NE.

Upon reaching it, Lupe discovered that this ridge was a false summit.  Beyond a short flat area and a tiny dip, the true summit region, which was a lot bigger, was another 100 feet higher up a slope that wasn’t as steep.  A red and white tower, and a solar panel were in sight up there.

Porcupine Dome summit from the false summit. Photo looks NE.

4:05 PM, 44ºF – The top of Porcupine Dome (4,915 ft.) was another big flat region.  Several hundred feet long, it sloped slightly up toward the W.  A 5-10 mph E breeze felt surprisingly chilly, as SPHP dumped the pack by what appeared to be the highest collection of rocks near the W end.  Sitting down, SPHP faced W, away from the breeze.

By the red & white tower and solar panel shed. Photo looks NE.

Beef jerky, Loop?

Yes, please!  I’m famished, SPHP!

The beef jerky vanished in nothing flat.  Lupe found a bit of tundra to curl up on.

How far are we from Eagle Summit, SPHP?

The way the trail winds around, think we’ve gone about 6 miles, Looper.  The Peakbagger app on the iPhone says 7.1 miles, but I don’t think it’s right.  Seems to overestimate distances.

And Pinnell Mountain is another 2.5+ miles?

That’s as the crow flies, Loopster.  The trail will be more like 3 miles.

There was more human stuff up here than just the tower and the shed with the solar panel.  Several white tanks, a green thing-a-ma-jig, and a couple of big metal boxes were farther E.

Relaxing by the highest rocks near the W end of the summit region. Photo looks E.

None of that stuff was of any real interest to Lupe or SPHP, but there was one thing that SPHP would be interested in seeing.

Supposed to be a “Porky” survey benchmark up here, Loop.  Want to help me find it?

Sure, SPHP!  Where’s it supposed to be?

Map shows it about in the middle along the N edge.

Thinking it might be attached to a rock, SPHP wandered E along the N side of the summit region, while Lupe sniffed about.  There were many rocks, though, and SPHP had no luck despite going nearly all the way to the E end.

Setting off to find the “Porky” survey benchmark. Photo looks ENE.
The Porcupine Dome summit plain from near the E end. Photo looks W.

Another pass heading back W wasn’t any more successful.  No cairn, no registry, no “Porky” survey benchmark, and nothing to be done about it.

I don’t know, Loop.  Maybe it’s gone?  Maybe it’s up here, but I’m just not seeing it?  Doesn’t really matter, anyway.  Let’s just relax for a while.

Aren’t you forgetting something, SPHP?

Like what, Loop?

You did bring a chocolate coconut bar, didn’t you?

Oh, of course!  Sorry, Loopster!  Congratulations on reaching Porcupine Dome!  May I shake your paw?

That’s more like it, SPHP!

Might I add that you’ve done a magnificent job of avoiding any marauding porcupines along the way?

You may, but I’d be happier if you’d add that chocolate coconut bar, SPHP.

Ah, yes!  Then without further ado, Looper, let’s split one, in accordance with long established tradition.

The chocolate coconut bar came and went.  The American Dingo insisted on another round of beef jerky, as well, before curling up again.  SPHP then took to munching on honey roasted peanuts, and enjoyed a vanilla pudding cup, while taking in the tremendous views.

Pinnell Mountain was the only higher peak anywhere nearby.  It was only marginally higher than Porcupine Dome, but there were distant mountains in nearly every direction.  The exceptions were to the N and E, where large regions of lowlands were in sight.  The Yukon River was supposed to be out there somewhere, but SPHP couldn’t see it.

Although there were a few notably higher peaks in the distance, they were all far away, and no real giants stuck out.  Still, a huge expanse of unspoiled Alaska was in view, a stirring sight in itself.

HP4721 (L), Pinnell Mountain (L of Center), HP4740 (R). Photo looks W.
At what appeared to be Porcupine Dome’s true summit. Photo looks N with help from the telephoto lens.
The Crazy Mountains in the distance from Porcupine Dome. Photo looks NE.
Mastodon Dome is the dark blip beyond Lupe. Peak 4350 (Center) in the foreground. Photo looks SE.

4:50 PM, Porcupine Dome

Hate to say it, but it’s about time to mosey on, Looper.  You ready?

What?  Is summit hour over already, SPHP?  Seems like we just got here!

Well, we’re cutting it a bit short, Loop.  Only been up here 45 minutes, but I think we better make sure we get to Pinnell Mountain this evening.  Who knows what tomorrow will bring?  The forecast wasn’t good.

Maybe we can hit Porcupine Dome again on the way back, SPHP?

Exactly what I was thinking, too, Loopster.  Weather permitting, of course.

Somewhat reluctantly, SPHP hoisted the pack, and Lupe was on her way again, setting off back down the slope leading to the false summit.

About to head down to the false summit (Center). Photo looks SW.

Upon reaching the dip just before the false summit, Lupe peered down Porcupine Dome’s W slope.

We can skip all the rocks if we go this way, SPHP!  A nice long descent on tundra all the way.

A better route and more direct, too!  Go for it Loop!

Optimistic about her chances of getting to Pinnell Mountain despite how cloudy it had become again on what was supposed to have been a sunny day, the intrepid American Dingo led the way.

Heading down Porcupine Dome’s W slope. Pinnell Mountain (L), HP4740 (Center). Photo looks W.
At HP4351 on the way to Porcupine Dome, Pinnell Mountain National Recreation Trail, Alaska 9-2-22

Links:

Next Adventure                     Prior Adventure

The Pinnell Mountain National Recreation Trail – Part 2: Porcupine Dome to Pinnell Mountain, Alaska 9-2-22

Lupe’s Porcupine Dome GPS Track

Pinnell Mountain National Recreation Trail

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