Tag: Yukon

Decoeli, Kluane National Park, Yukon Territory, Canada (8-9-16)

Day 11 of Lupe’s Summer of 2016 Dingo Vacation to the Canadian Rockies, Yukon & Alaska.

No matter what hour of the night Lupe woke up, there was light in the northern sky.  Twilight moved slowly around the horizon, but never completely disappeared.  Lupe was N, as far N as she had ever been in her life.  Beyond huge, dark Kluane Lake, a line of mysterious unknown mountains marched away to the Arctic.  It all seemed surreal, but Lupe really was here, in the fabled Yukon!

Two days ago, Lupe had climbed her first peak in the Yukon, King’s Throne Peak (6,529 ft.) in Kluane National Park.  It had been a long, hard climb in powerful, swirling winds, but Lupe had made it to the top.  She had been rewarded with spectacular views of Kathleen Lake, Louise Lake and mountains of the Saint Elias range.

From King’s Throne Peak, Lupe had seen another peak off to the NW, the mountain she would attempt to climb today – Mount Decoeli (7,650 ft.).  If Lupe could reach the summit of Decoeli, it was possible she would get to see the highest mountain in Canada, Mount Logan (19,541 ft.), far off to the WSW!

At some point, the long twilight became a long dawn, as the sun started sneaking back up toward the horizon again.  Twenty minutes after the sun finally appeared (6:30 AM, 39°F), Lupe was at the long, paved pullout on the W side of the Alaska Highway that serves as the trailhead for the trek to Decoeli.  No one else was here.  The G6 was alone in the huge parking area.

At 7:23 AM, all was ready.  Lupe and SPHP left the pullout heading S to a cairn marking the start of the route to Decoeli.  Nearby an old jeep trail headed SW into a forest of stunted trees and tall soapberry bushes.  Lupe and SPHP followed the jeep trail, which soon met another similar road coming from the E.  Lupe took the new road W.  Mount Decoeli was in sight up ahead.

Mount Decoeli from along the jeep trail. Photo looks WSW using the telephoto lens.
Mount Decoeli from along the jeep trail. Photo looks WSW using the telephoto lens.

About a kilometer from the Alaska Highway, the road ended at Summit Creek.  From here, Lupe’s route followed Summit Creek upstream.  The creek led Lupe toward a still unseen rock glacier S of Mount Decoeli.

Lupe reaches Summit Creek at the end of the road. From here, Lupe followed the creek upstream toward a still unseen rock glacier at the base of the snow streaked mountain on the L. Lupe's objective, the summit of Decoeli, is seen on the R. Photo looks WSW.
Lupe reaches Summit Creek at the end of the road. From here, Lupe followed the creek upstream toward a still unseen rock glacier at the base of the snow streaked mountain on the L. Lupe’s objective, the summit of Decoeli, is seen on the R. Photo looks WSW.

Summit Creek was running low, but not low enough for SPHP to cross without getting wet feet.  Lupe and SPHP stayed on the S side of the creek for as long as possible.  It was generally easiest to simply travel right up the creek bed.  However, Summit Creek often ran right along the S bank of the stream channel, forcing Lupe and SPHP up into the bushes above the bank.

At first, there were usually some pretty decent trails to follow through the brush, but as Lupe got farther and farther upstream, these trails deteriorated, becoming hard to find and follow.  The jungle of bushes was so dense, it was almost impossible to make any headway where there wasn’t some kind of path.

Being in the tall bushes made SPHP increasingly nervous.  Nothing more than a few feet away was in view.  With the stream babbling along close by, it wasn’t easy to hear anything else.  SPHP kept up a lively, loud conversation with Lupe, counting on Lupe to give some warning if she smelled bears in the area.

After being repeatedly forced up into the jungle, SPHP finally decided enough was enough!  Lupe and SPHP forded Summit Creek, and stayed out in the open on the wide, rocky creek bed.

Of course, fording the stream meant SPHP’s feet were now soaking wet.  They stayed that way.  Summit Creek kept insisting upon flowing back and forth all the way from one side of the stream channel to the other, so Lupe and SPHP had to keep crossing the creek.  Nevertheless, Lupe’s upstream progress was much faster out on the rocks.  Furthermore, if any bears were in the area, at least out on the creek bed they could be seen well before coming right up on them.

After a long trek, Lupe could see the rock glacier S of Decoeli up ahead.

The rock glacier is now in view below the snow-streaked mountain up ahead. Photo looks WSW.
The rock glacier is now in view below the snow-streaked mountain up ahead. Photo looks WSW.

By the time Lupe reached the toe of the rock glacier, the dense jungle of bushes on the banks of Summit Creek was gone.  Lupe left the creek bed to start climbing the green, mossy slope on the N bank.  A trail showed others had taken this route before.  Lupe liked being out on the spongy, mossy slope a lot better than being down on the rocky stream bed.

Lupe nears the toe of the rock glacier. About the time she reached it, she left the creek bed to follow a trail up the mossy slope on the R. Photo looks WSW.
Lupe nears the toe of the rock glacier. About the time she reached it, she left the creek bed to follow a trail up the mossy slope on the R. Photo looks WSW.
Lupe greatly preferred being on this spongy, mossy ground. She would eventually climb from the little knob seen on the ridgeline at (Center), up to the summit of Mount Decoeli on the R. Photo looks NW.
Lupe greatly preferred being on this spongy, mossy ground. She would eventually climb from the little knob seen on the ridgeline at (Center), up to the summit of Mount Decoeli on the R. Photo looks NW.
Lupe had already gained a fair amount of elevation on the long, gentle trek up Summit Creek to the rock glacier. Now that she had left the creek bed, though, things were about to get a lot steeper! Photo looks NW.

Only a few minutes after Lupe left the creek bed, SPHP heard voices.  Looking back, two people and a big brown dog were in sight not too far away.  They were moving fast, coming up the creek bed, just like Lupe and SPHP had.

Lupe’s route was much steeper up on the green, spongy ground, than it had been down by Summit Creek.  Rather than turn NW directly up the steep slope, it seemed best to follow the trail W for a little while making a more gradual climb.  Lupe had already crossed a big ravine and gained a fair amount of elevation above the rock glacier, by the time the two hikers and their dog overtook SPHP.

Two hikers and their big brown dog overtook SPHP near this point. Photo looks SW over the rock glacier.
Two hikers and their big brown dog overtook SPHP near this point. Photo looks SW over the rock glacier.

The two hikers were Milo and Ben, from Smithers, British Columbia, with their dog, Lucca.  Lucca was bigger than Lupe, and not too sociable.  Lucca growled menacingly.  Lupe wisely kept her distance.  Milo, Ben and SPHP had a brief, friendly conversation.

Had Lupe and SPHP seen the grizzly bear?  Uh, no.  What grizzly bear?  Where?  Milo and Ben said they had come across a huge, steaming, fresh grizzly scat at the junction of the two roads leading to Summit Creek.  Shortly after that, they saw the grizzly.  Fortunately, it just ambled off into the bushes where they lost sight of it.

SPHP was certain that a giant steaming bear scat hadn’t been at the road intersection when Lupe passed by.  Even if SPHP hadn’t noticed it, Lupe certainly would have!  The bear must have been fairly close by, though, for it to come through before Milo and Ben showed up.  Yeah, avoiding the bushes, and staying out on the rocks on the wide Summit Creek channel was definitely the way to go on the way back!

All resumed the climb up Decoeli.  Milo, Ben and Luca were soon well ahead of Lupe and SPHP.  Everyone had turned NW going directly up the steep slope.  For a little way farther, the ground was still covered with nice spongy, green plants.  Pretty soon, though, Lupe reached rocky ground again.  From here on, Lupe faced a long, steep climb up very loose scree mixed with occasional large rocks.

Lupe reaches the scree. She isn't to the steepest part of the climb quite yet. Worryingly, a cloud had appeared, and now clung to the summit of Decoeli. Photo looks NW.
Lupe reaches the scree. She isn’t to the steepest part of the climb quite yet. Worryingly, a cloud had appeared, and now clung to the summit of Decoeli. Photo looks NW.
Lupe on her way up Decoeli. She went over the orange-tan colored knob beyond her, and then climbed toward the saddle seen L of Center on the ridge. Photo looks NW.

Although most of the sky was clear, a worrisome cloud formed and grew around the summit of Decoeli.  It hung around for a while, but eventually blew away to the E.  In the meantime, Lupe was making steady progress up Decoeli.  She was now approaching the most challenging part of the climb.

Lupe and SPHP reached a long, incredibly steep, scree slope.  The climb became rather unnerving.  Virtually everything was loose.  With each step up, the mountain gave way.  Rocks slid and careened down the mountain from under SPHP’s feet.  Now and then, entire areas began to slide, taking SPHP sliding back down, too, before stabilizing.  Nothing wanted to hold.  It was like trying to navigate a river of rock flowing in the opposite direction.

Most of the few large rocks on the slope were loose, too.  SPHP avoided coming up directly below them.  Even Lupe was causing showers of rocks to tumble, sometimes bounding hundreds of feet down the mountain.  It was dangerous for Lupe and SPHP to be directly above or below each other, for fear of the projectiles being released from above.

Lupe on the scary steep scree slope. The American Dingo was doing fine. She was heading for the saddle just L of Center. Photo looks NW.
Lupe on the scary steep scree slope. The American Dingo was doing fine. She was heading for the saddle just L of Center. Photo looks NW.

Lupe headed up toward large rock formations along the ridge to the WNW.  She gained elevation relentlessly.  The view back down the precipitous scree slope toward the rock glacier was tremendous.  Lupe was as calm as ever.  SPHP, however, found it better not to look down too long upon the dizzying scene.

Lupe nears the first big rock formation. No wonder the Carolina Dog was so calm on this steep scree slope – she was keeping her eyes closed! Photo looks WNW.

Lupe reached the top of the first big rock formation.  On a small area of relatively level terra firma, Lupe and SPHP took a break.  At Summit Creek, the air had been calm, but up here a cool breeze was blowing.  The views were already fantastic, even though Lupe still had a considerable climb ahead.  Lupe and SPHP relaxed for 10 minutes, recovering from the ordeal on the treacherous scree slope.

Lupe at the first rock formation above the treacherous scree slope. Photo looks S toward the rock glacier, now many hundreds of feet below.
Lupe at the first rock formation above the treacherous scree slope. Photo looks S toward the rock glacier, now many hundreds of feet below.

Lupe was now on the ridge that had been visible from below.  Another, longer ridge was in view off to the W.  The longer ridge looked like it might very well have been a considerably easier route up.  Perhaps Lupe should have stayed down near the rock glacier longer, following it farther SW before turning N to start her climb.  Maybe she should take that ridge on the way back down?

The long, low ridge seen beyond Lupe would have been a much easier route up Decoeli. To get to it, Lupe would have had to follow the rock glacier farther SW before turning N to start her climb. Photo looks W.
The long, low ridge seen beyond Lupe would have been a much easier route up Decoeli. To get to it, Lupe would have had to follow the rock glacier farther SW before turning N to start her climb. Photo looks W.

Off to the NW, SPHP saw another climber!  He was at about Lupe’s level.  Apparently, he had come up somewhere along that longer ridge, thereby avoiding the super steep, scree slope.  This new climber also saw SPHP, and waved.  SPHP waved back.  No doubt, Lupe would get to meet him at the top of the mountain.

Lupe continued her climb up Decoeli.  She was now traveling up the ridgeline, no longer on the scree slope.  The ridge was still very rocky, and quite steep, but the rocks were more stable than before.  Soon, Lupe came to another rock formation where there was a small patch of level ground.

Lupe reaches a 2nd rock formation along the ridgeline. There was a little level ground here, but Lupe still faced a fairly long climb to reach the top of Decoeli. Photo looks NW.
Lupe reaches a 2nd rock formation along the ridgeline. There was a little level ground here, but Lupe still faced a fairly long climb to reach the top of Decoeli. Photo looks NW.

Lupe was getting closer to the top of Decoeli.  She still had to gain hundreds of feet of elevation, but the nature of the climb was changing.  The slope ahead, while still steep, was broader and covered with talus.  The large rocks were much more stable.  Projectiles were no longer being released with every step.

Lupe and SPHP toiled upward.  A cold W wind was blowing.  The sky overhead was a clear, brilliant blue.  The slope diminished.  A weather vane, spinning rapidly, came into view.  Beyond it, a silver metal shack perched atop the mountain.  Milo, Ben and the new climber were all there, engaged in conversation.  Weary, Lucca had collapsed on the rocks.  She didn’t stir at all, as Lupe went by.

After gaining nearly 4,400 ft. of elevation, Lupe had made it to the top of Decoeli (7,650 ft.)!  The views were fantastic, but disappointingly, off to the WSW, there were clouds in the direction where Mount Logan should be.  High, snowy peaks were partially in view, but many summits were not.

Far to the WSW, partially shrouded by clouds, were giant snowy peaks of the Saint Elias range. This photo was taken as Lupe arrived at the summit of Decoeli. Even a partial view was a stirring sight! SPHP wondered if Lupe was gazing upon Mount Logan, the highest peak in all of Canada, among the distant giants she could see? Photo taken with the telephoto lens.
Far to the WSW, partially shrouded by clouds, were giant snowy peaks of the Saint Elias range. This photo was taken as Lupe arrived at the summit of Decoeli. Even a partial view was a stirring sight! SPHP wondered if Lupe was gazing upon Mount Logan, the highest peak in all of Canada, among the distant giants she could see? Photo taken with the telephoto lens.
Lupe on top of Decoeli! Photo looks S.
Lupe on top of Decoeli! Photo looks S.
The view toward Haines Junction. Photo looks SE.
The view toward Haines Junction. Photo looks SE.
Milo and Ben chat with Richard Baker. Poor, exhausted Lucca was passed out on the rocks. Photo looks WNW.
Milo and Ben chat with Richard Baker. Poor, exhausted Lucca was passed out on the rocks. Photo looks WNW.

After a few minutes gazing at the amazing views, Lupe and SPHP went to see Ben, Milo, and Lucca and meet the other climber.  He was Richard Baker, owner of a seasonal window cleaning business in Tucson, Arizona.  Richard was quite animated, and busy expounding upon his philosophy of life among other topics.

Milo and Ben were telling the tale of the grizzly bear.  Richard couldn’t believe he hadn’t seen the bear scat, or noticed the grizzly.  He is normally very wary in bear country, and was well-equipped with bear spray and other protective devices.

Milo and Ben were both wearing shorts, and feeling a bit uncomfortable in the cold breeze.  Since they intended to start back down soon, it was time for a photo op with them at the summit cairn.  Milo said they had just built the cairn higher while Lupe was coming up Decoeli, which explained it’s magnificently balanced slender height.

Ben (L) and Milo (R) at the newly improved Decoeli summit cairn with their dog, Lucca, and Lupe. Ben is 16, and in school. Milo is 50, and works in the lumber industry. They were all from Smithers, British Columbia. They had been climbing mountains on 5 of the past 7 days. Like Lupe, they had also been to King's Throne. Photo looks S.
Ben (L) and Milo (R) at the newly improved Decoeli summit cairn with their dog, Lucca, and Lupe. Ben is 16, and in school. Milo is 50, and works in the lumber industry. They were all from Smithers, British Columbia. They had been climbing mountains on 5 of the past 7 days. Like Lupe, they had also been to King’s Throne. Photo looks S.

Spurred on by the cold wind, Milo, Ben and Lucca started down Decoeli.  Lupe did not see them again.  Richard, Lupe and SPHP were in no hurry to leave.  Richard and SPHP chatted while admiring the views.  Gradually, the clouds were lifting in the W!  Many towering ice-clad mountains were in sight.  Richard shared his binoculars with SPHP.

Both Richard and SPHP wondered whether or not Mount Logan was in sight, and if so, which giant peak it might be.  Richard thought it was one farther to the N than SPHP believed.  In truth, neither Richard nor SPHP really knew, but it was fun to speculate.  It remained a pretty good bet that Lupe was seeing Mount Logan somewhere over there!

Lupe scans distant giants of snow and ice from Decoeli. Somewhere over there was Mount Logan, the highest peak in all of Canada, and 2nd highest peak in North America! SPHP believes Lupe did see Mount Logan, even though neither Richard nor SPHP knew exactly which peak was it. Photo looks WSW.
Lupe scans distant giants of snow and ice from Decoeli. Somewhere over there was Mount Logan, the highest peak in all of Canada, and 2nd highest peak in North America! SPHP believes Lupe did see Mount Logan, even though neither Richard nor SPHP knew exactly which peak was it. Photo looks WSW.
SPHP believes the highest mountain at Center is Mount Cairns (9,186 ft.). Photo looks WNW.
SPHP believes the highest mountain at Center is Mount Cairns (9,186 ft.). Photo looks WNW.
Looking SE from Decoeli. Two large lakes are seen faintly on the L. Kathleen Lake is the closest. Dezadeash Lake is the more distant. The long slope rising to the R from between them is the NE ridge that Lupe climbed 2 days earlier to reach the summit of King's Throne (6,529 ft.), which is barely in view.
Looking SE from Decoeli. Two large lakes are seen faintly on the L. Kathleen Lake is the closest. Dezadeash Lake is the more distant. The long slope rising to the R from between them is the NE ridge that Lupe climbed 2 days earlier to reach the summit of King’s Throne (6,529 ft.), which is barely in view.
Kluane Lake from Decoeli. Photo looks NW.
Kluane Lake from Decoeli. Photo looks NW.
Gradually, the clouds to the W lifted, allowing a better view of the stunning, distant peaks of the Saint Elias range. Neither Richard nor SPHP knew the names of any of them, but nevertheless, they were an inspiring sight! Photo looks W.
Gradually, the clouds to the W lifted, allowing a better view of the stunning, distant peaks of the Saint Elias range. Neither Richard nor SPHP knew the names of any of them, but nevertheless, they were an inspiring sight! Photo looks W.
A world of snow and ice. Was that huge snowy ramp on the R, Mt. Logan? It was SPHP's favorite candidate. It would be fun to know the truth! Photo looks WSW using the telephoto lens.
A world of snow and ice. Was that huge snowy ramp on the R, Mt. Logan? It was SPHP’s favorite candidate. It would be fun to know the truth! Photo looks WSW using the telephoto lens.
Mount Logan? No one knew. It's some grand and massive peak, for certain! Photo looks WSW using the telephoto lens.
Mount Logan? No one knew. It’s some grand and massive peak, for certain! Photo looks WSW using the telephoto lens.
More spectacular high peaks. Photo looks W.
More spectacular high peaks. Photo looks W.
A lofty white peak R of Center looks almost made of clouds. But what's that slope on the L? It was hard to tell if it was a cloud or part of some colossal mountain. Photo looks W.
A lofty white peak R of Center looks almost made of clouds. But what’s that slope on the L? It was hard to tell if it was a cloud or part of some colossal mountain. Photo looks W.

Richard and SPHP spent so long taking turns looking through the binoculars, that Lupe became a bit bored with it all.  She was tired of standing around, and disliked the cold wind.  Lupe had water, some Taste of the Wild, and curled up on as flat a spot as she could find.  SPHP covered her with a jacket to help her keep warm.

Richard Baker on Decoeli. Richard was quite animated and friendly. He shared his binoculars and philosophy with SPHP. Richard’s window cleaning business in Tucson, AZ is seasonal enough to permit him time to travel and climb mountains part of the year.

After Lupe and SPHP had been at the summit for 50 minutes, Richard announced that he was ready to head down.  Lupe and SPHP remained on top of Decoeli alone a little longer for a last look around.  The views remained simply astounding!  Climbing Decoeli had been a challenging, yet magnificently rewarding experience.

Lupe not far from the Decoeli summit cairn for the last time. Photo looks S.
Lupe not far from the Decoeli summit cairn for the last time. Photo looks S.
The best route down Decoeli passes to the R of the small prominence seen L of Center overlooking the rock glacier. Photo looks S..
Richard Baker starts down Decoeli. Mount Cairnes is in view at Center. Photo looks WNW.
Richard Baker starts down Decoeli. Mount Cairnes is in view at Center. Photo looks WNW.

Sadly, it was time to move on.  Lupe and SPHP set off following Richard down the mountain.  This time, Lupe stayed on the longer ridge going SSW.  The first part of the descent down the talus slope was still quite steep and slow, but by staying on the SSW ridge, Lupe was able to avoid having to go down the treacherous scree slope to the SE where she and SPHP had come up.

Richard was leading the way, taking the same long SSW ridge.  Even this route was steep enough so SPHP had to be careful not to send rocks bounding down the mountain toward him.  Several times SPHP had to shout a warning.

The SSW ridge led down toward a wide saddle. The rock glacier Lupe would eventually have to turn toward is out of sight farther down to the L. Although this route wasn't as difficult as the scree slope Lupe and SPHP climbed going up, it was still plenty steep. Richard can be seen ahead. SPHP had to be careful not to send loose rocks bounding down the mountain at him. Photo looks SSW.
The SSW ridge led down toward a wide saddle. The rock glacier Lupe would eventually have to turn toward is out of sight farther down to the L. Although this route wasn’t as difficult as the scree slope Lupe and SPHP climbed going up, it was still plenty steep. Richard can be seen ahead. SPHP had to be careful not to send loose rocks bounding down the mountain at him. Photo looks SSW.
Unnamed peaks beyond the saddle SSW of Decoeli. Photo looks SSW.
Unnamed peaks beyond the saddle SSW of Decoeli. Photo looks SSW.

Partly out of fear of rocks hurtling down the mountain, Richard stopped off to the side long enough to let Lupe and SPHP catch up.  While climbing Decoeli, Richard had originally come up from the SE to reach this broad, gentler slope on the long SSW ridge.  He had also had to climb up a steep, scree slope on the way, but not for nearly as far as Lupe.

Ahead was a small prominence overlooking the rock glacier to the S.  The question was whether to start down to the SE now, or circle around the W side of the prominence?  After a little discussion and scouting around, it was decided to go the long way around the W side.  There were numerous sheep trails Lupe could follow in this area.

Going down around the prominence overlooking the rock glacier. The top of the prominence is out of sight up the L slope. Richard leads the way, while Lupe wonders what's keeping SPHP? The rock glacier is in view ahead. Photo looks SSE.
Going down around the prominence overlooking the rock glacier. The top of the prominence is out of sight up the L slope. Richard leads the way, while Lupe wonders what’s keeping SPHP? The rock glacier is in view ahead. Photo looks SSE.
Looking SSE at the mountains beyond the rock glacier. It's possible the more distant peak on the L is Mount Archibald (8,491 ft.), but SPHP isn't certain.
Looking SSE at the mountains beyond the rock glacier. It’s possible the more distant peak on the L is Mount Archibald (8,491 ft.), but SPHP isn’t certain.
Lupe on her way down Decoeli. Photo looks N.

Eventually, Lupe, Richard and SPHP all arrived down at the rock glacier.  Up close, it was possible to see there really was melting snow and glacial ice under all the rock.

Lupe down by the rock glacier.
Lupe down by the rock glacier.

Richard, Lupe and SPHP all started the journey NE toward the rock glacier’s toe.  The terrain along the NW side of the glacier was often rough and broken.  After staying near the glacier’s edge for a while, SPHP tried leading Lupe up a steep bank to a green, spongy area overlooking the glacier.  This maneuver did not help.  Lupe quickly arrived at a ravine leading right back down to the glacier.

Richard had stayed down by the rock glacier.  He forged ahead, while Lupe and SPHP navigated the ravine.  By the time Lupe reached the toe of the glacier, Richard was out of sight somewhere down Summit Creek.

Lupe and SPHP made great progress going down the wide, rock-strewn Summit Creek channel.  This time, SPHP didn’t hesitate to simply ford the creek whenever necessary.  Every now and then, Lupe caught sight of Richard far ahead.  The long trek down the creek bed was actually quite easy and fun.  Lupe and SPHP enjoyed the beautiful long Yukon evening.

Near the start of the jeep trail, Lupe and SPHP caught up with Richard again.  Richard and SPHP chatted as Lupe trotted along the road.  Richard expounded upon grizzly bears.  He was carrying bear spray and other anti-bear devices to deal with them.  He talked about how all these tall bushes with small red berries growing along the road were soapberry bushes, and how bears love soapberries!

At the intersection where the road forked, there it was, just like Milo and Ben had said.  A huge grizzly bear scat full of soapberries was right there at the intersection.  Richard still couldn’t believe he hadn’t seen it in the morning!

The sun was getting low when Lupe reached the G6.  She’d had a long, long day.  Without the slightest hesitation, she hopped into the G6.  Lupe curled up on her blankets and pillows, looking forward to a soft, comfy snooze.  For more than an hour outside, Richard and SPHP conversed about Decoeli, bears, and other things.  Richard even offered SPHP a free canister of bear spray.  SPHP thanked him, but declined.

When Richard said good-bye and drove off, SPHP joined Lupe in the G6.  The sun was about to set.  What a fantastic, memorable day it had been!  Lupe had made it to the top of Decoeli.  She had almost certainly seen Mount Logan, the highest mountain in all of Canada.

Lupe and SPHP drove N on the Alaska Highway on the way to Kluane Lake, as the still glowing evening faded slowly from the wild Yukon mountains and sky.

Half moon over mountains NW of Decoeli.
Half moon over mountains NW of Decoeli.
Lupe's long, fabulous Day of Decoeli draws to a close.
Lupe’s long, fabulous Day of Decoeli draws to a close.
Sunset, Kluane National Park, Yukon Territory, Canada 8-9-16
Sunset, Kluane National Park, Yukon Territory, Canada 8-9-16

Note: The trailhead for Mount Decoeli is a long, paved pullout 12.5 miles N of Haines Junction on the W side of the Alaska Highway.  (1.4 miles N of the Spruce Beetle trailhead.) Decoeli is near, but not actually in, Kluane National Park.  The route up is not maintained or signed in any manner.  There is no formal trail.  Elevation gain is a bit under 4,400 feet, or 1330 meters.  Distance is roughly 11 miles or 18 km round trip.

A free description of the route up Decoeli is available from visitor centers near Haines Junction and Kluane Lake.

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Kluane Lake & Shepherd’s Knoll in the Slims River Valley, Kluane National Park, Yukon Territory, Canada (8-8-16)

Day 10 of Lupe’s Summer of 2016 Dingo Vacation to the Canadian Rockies, Yukon & Alaska

The sky was overcast, but it wasn’t raining.  What time was it?  Good grief!  Almost 9:30 AM already!  SPHP came to.  Lupe was looking way perkier than SPHP.  Her successful climb up King’s Throne yesterday only seemed to have enlivened her.  SPHP on the other hand … well, it didn’t matter, today needed to be a rest day, anyway.

Lupe and SPHP got water and pitched garbage at the campground.  SPHP straightened up the G6.  There were a few squirrels around, so Lupe was happy.  When all was back in order again, Lupe and SPHP drove down to see Kathleen Lake.  A crew was taking down big tents that had been set up for some youth group over the weekend.  The tents had been flapping noisily in the wind much of the night.

King’s Throne Peak (6,529 ft.) was across the bay.  SPHP had been hoping for a clear, bright shot of Lupe at shining blue Kathleen Lake with mighty King’s Throne illuminated by morning sun in the background, but it wasn’t going to happen.  The top of the mountain was scraping clouds.  There wasn’t a ray of sunshine anywhere.  Kathleen Lake looked green, instead of the brilliant blue it had appeared only yesterday.

Lupe at Kathleen Lake with King's Throne Peak in the background. Lupe had been to the summit yesterday! Photo looks SW.
Lupe at Kathleen Lake with King’s Throne Peak in the background. Lupe had been to the summit yesterday! Photo looks SW.

There wasn’t a real plan for the day.  Lupe and SPHP drove to Haines Junction.  SPHP managed to get a shower at a motel.  Much better!  The skies were clearing.  Maybe it was time to head N and see what Lupe’s options were?  On the way N, Lupe went by Mount Decoeli (7,650 ft.).

Mount Decoeli (R) from the Alaska Highway NW of Haines Junction. Photo looks WNW.
Mount Decoeli (R) from the Alaska Highway NW of Haines Junction. Photo looks WNW.

SPHP had hopes that Lupe would be able to climb Decoeli, but not today.  It was too much for today, right after King’s Throne.  Maybe it wasn’t a bad idea to check out the trailhead, though?  SPHP found the trailhead on a hill more than 10 miles N of Haines Junction.  The trailhead was really just a big paved pullout on the W side of the Alaska Highway.  There was no sign, no information, nothing except free parking.

Mount Decoeli from the Alaska Highway, not far from the long paved pullout that serves as a trailhead. Photo looks W.
Mount Decoeli from the Alaska Highway, not far from the long paved pullout that serves as a trailhead. Photo looks W.

It seemed like a good idea to stop by the Tachal Dhal visitor center for information.  SPHP knew the visitor center was located near the S end of Kluane Lake, a huge lake E of the Saint Elias range.  Lupe and SPHP continued N on the Alaska Highway.  Soon the lake could be seen ahead, flanked by mountains to the W.

Lupe near the Alaska Highway. Kluane Lake is in view! Photo looks NNW.
Lupe near the Alaska Highway. Kluane Lake is in view! Photo looks NNW.

Kluane Lake was huge and gorgeous!  Before even going to the visitor center, Lupe and SPHP stopped at a large pullout along the shore at the S end of the lake.

Lupe in Kluane Lake. She reported that the water was clear, cold, and good to drink. The weather, breezy and bright. Photo looks N.
Lupe in Kluane Lake. She reported that the water was clear, cold, and good to drink. The weather, breezy and bright. Photo looks N.

Kluane Lake made a huge impression.  To the N, the cold, blue waters stretched to the horizon like a Yukon sea.  E of the lake, desolate unknown peaks marched N toward the Arctic until they vanished from view.  NW across the lake was scenic Sheep Mountain (6,400 ft.), a peak SPHP hoped Lupe might be able to climb.  To the W was the wide, flat Slims River valley.  Strange clouds of dust blew from the valley toward Kluane Lake.

Blowing dust was unexpected and puzzling.  Was the Alaska Highway gravel over there?  SPHP figured the dust must be coming from traffic on the Alaska Highway or road construction.  Later, it became evident the dust was being blown up by winds sweeping over dried out mud flats along the Slims River.

Clouds of dust were rising up from the Slims River valley, close to where the Tachal Dhal visitor center is located. At first, SPHP thought traffic or road construction was the cause. It turned out to be dust blown from dried out mud flats along the Slims River. Photo looks W.

After Lupe had a chance to wade in Kluane Lake and have a refreshing drink of Yukon water, Lupe and SPHP went on to the Tachal Dahl visitor center.  The visitor center was located in a small building in the Slims River Valley W of both Kluane Lake and the Alaska Highway.  SPHP went in to inquire about trails in the area.

There was bad news for Lupe about the trail to Sheep Mountain.  It was temporarily closed due to recent grizzly bear activity.  SPHP chatted with a ranger about a much longer trail up the Slims River Valley to the Kaskawulsh Glacier.  The best glacier viewpoint was from Observation Mountain (6,824 ft.), but getting there would involve a 3 day/2 night backpacking trip and major stream fords.

As a nice day hike, the ranger suggested the Bullion Plateau trail.  The Bullion Plateau sounded interesting, but it was already afternoon and the trail was too long to consider today.  How about something short and easy?  Right away, the ranger suggested Shepherd’s Knoll, a hill not too far away up the Slims River valley.  A very short trail goes to the top of Shepherd’s Knoll where there are views both up the valley and back toward Kluane Lake.  It sounded perfect!

A little N on the Alaska Highway from the turn to the Tachal Dhal visitor center, another gravel road leaves the highway.  This road goes 2.6 km up the Slims River valley to the Tachal Dahl trailhead.  Lupe left for Shepherd’s Knoll from here.  Lupe and SPHP started out on the main trail, which ultimately goes to the Kaskawulsh Glacier.  The trail began as an old roadbed going through a forest.

It didn’t take Lupe long, maybe 15 minutes, to reach an intersection with the Sheep Creek trail.  A few hundred feet farther along, on the valley side of the main trail, Lupe found the side trail to Shepherd’s Knoll.

Lupe near the start of the Shepherd's Knoll trail. Photo looks SE.
Lupe near the start of the Shepherd’s Knoll trail. Photo looks SE.

The Shepherd’s Knoll trail wasn’t long at all.  It climbed partway up a small hill and vanished.  Lupe continued on higher up the hill, checking out the views from different vantage points along her way.

Lupe climbing Shepherd's Knoll. The trail soon vanished, but Lupe continued up, checking out the views from various vantage points along the way. Photo looks NE.
Lupe climbing Shepherd’s Knoll. The trail soon vanished, but Lupe continued up, checking out the views from various vantage points along the way. Photo looks NE.

For as little effort as it took for Lupe to get here, the views from Shepherd’s Knoll were impressive.

Looking SW up the Slims River valley.
Looking SW up the Slims River valley.
Dust blows down the Slims River valley toward Kluane Lake. Photo looks E.
Dust blows down the Slims River valley toward Kluane Lake. Photo looks E.
Looking S across the Slims River valley from Shepherd’s Knoll.
A closer look at the snow-capped mountain across the valley using the telephoto lens.
A closer look at the snow-capped mountain across the valley using the telephoto lens.
The beautiful Slims River valley. Photo looks SSW.
The beautiful Slims River valley. Photo looks SSW.
SPHP believes the high hill in the distance is part of the Bullion Plateau. Photo looks WNW.
The Bullion Plateau? It seemed to be in the right direction. Photo looks WNW.
The Bullion Plateau? It seemed to be in the right direction. Photo looks WNW.
A wider view of the Bullion Plateau vicinity.
A wider view of the Bullion Plateau vicinity.

Even though getting to Shepherd’s Knoll hadn’t taken Lupe very far up the Slims River valley, it was certainly a worthwhile easy trek.  Lupe would have liked to do much more exploring in the Slims River area, but this was a rest day, and it was starting to get late.  Lupe and SPHP returned to the Tachal Dahl trailhead.

No one had been at the trailhead before, but now there were nearly a dozen people here.  They had just returned from an overnight backpacking trip to the Kaskawulsh Glacier.  A campground near the glacier was about as far as most of them had made it.  Only one person had succeeded in reaching the top of Observation Mountain.  The trip was more strenuous than they’d anticipated.

Lupe and SPHP went back to Kluane Lake, but this time a bit farther N along the W side of the lake.  A forested hill projected partway into the lake from mud flats deposited by the Slims River.  Silt is gradually filling in this end of the lake.

Over time, silt and mud deposited by the Slims River will completely surround the forested hill seen here by filling in adjacent portions of Kluane Lake. Photo looks ESE.
Over time, silt and mud deposited by the Slims River will completely surround the forested hill seen here by filling in adjacent portions of Kluane Lake. Photo looks ESE.

Evening was coming.  The views from the pullout along the S shore of Kluane Lake earlier in the day had been so beautiful that Lupe and SPHP returned to enjoy the evening there.

Lupe spent a few happy hours exploring the shore of Kluane Lake, while SPHP watched the ancient dust blow, and the waves roll in.

Sheep Mountain from mud flats at the far SW end of Kluane Lake. Photo looks NNW.
Sheep Mountain from mud flats at the far SW end of Kluane Lake. Photo looks NNW.
Lupe along the S shore of Kluane Lake the evening of 8-8-16. Photo looks W.
Lupe along the S shore of Kluane Lake the evening of 8-8-16. Photo looks W.
Happy times at Kluane Lake in the Yukon. Photo looks E.
Happy times at Kluane Lake in the Yukon. Photo looks E.
Evening at Kluane Lake, Kluane National Park, Yukon Territory, Canada 8-8-16.
Evening at Kluane Lake, Kluane National Park, Yukon Territory, Canada 8-8-16.

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