British Columbia – Page 11 – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Mt. Robson at 12,972 feet is the highest peak in the Canadian Rockies (though not in all of Canada). Gorgeous Berg Lake lies at the base of the N face of Mt. Robson at the end of a 21 km trail which passes through the Valley of a Thousand Falls. Although there is a campground at Berg Lake, dogs are not allowed to stay overnight. So Lupe made the entire 42 km round trip as a long day hike. Many other trails are located in the Berg Lake area which would be fun to explore. At 53.11 °N, Berg Lake is as far N as Lupe has ever been.

The Berg Lake trailhead is located on the Robson River at the end of a 3 km gravel road N of the Mt. Robson Provincial Park Visitor Center in British Columbia, Canada. The visitor center is about 55 miles W of the town of Jasper, Alberta along the Yellowhead Highway No. 16.

This was a patchy cloudy and foggy morning in Jasper. SPHP checked the weather forecast at the visitor center shortly after it opened, and was pleasantly surprised to learn the forecast was for sunny skies and 22 °C (72 °F). With this encouragement, Lupe and SPHP headed W on the Yellowhead Highway to Mt. Robson Provincial Park. Sure enough, shortly after leaving Jasper the skies cleared and the fog was left behind. It was a perfect day – cool, comfortable and clear.

Mt. Robson and the Mt. Robson Provincial Park Visitor Center

SPHP stopped in at the Mount Robson Provincial Park visitor center to register and get a free map of the Berg Lake trail. From there it was a short drive to the Berg Lake trailhead. There were lots of people and vehicles around, but SPHP found a place to park the G6. Sometime between 10:30 and 11:00 AM, Lupe crossed the bridge over the beautiful rushing Robson River and set off along the Berg Lake trail through a shady cedar forest.

The Robson River near the Berg Lake Trailhead. — The Robson River near the Berg Lake trailhead.

It was an easy stroll following the river, since the elevation gain was gradual. Before too long Lupe and SPHP fell in with another hiker, a young man from Calgary named Jason. Jason had saved up money and then gone on a 5 month trip by himself to South America from the prior December to May. He had visited Argentina, Chile, Bolivia, and the Amazon rain forest (although not Brazil). Sometime during this trip he had taken time to fly to Fiji to see his parents, who were also traveling.

The cedar forest along the Berg Lake trail.

Jason intended to hike just the first 5 or 6 km of the Berg Lake trail as far as Kinney Lake (the first major trail objective), since he was actually on his way to Vancouver. SPHP found Jason’s tales about his travels very interesting. Lupe trotted along keeping a sharp watch for squirrels while Jason and SPHP chatted. It seemed like Kinney Lake was reached in no time at all. Jason turned back and Lupe and SPHP continued on following the trail, which now went up and down in the forest above the E shore of Kinney Lake.

Lupe in the cedar forest near Kinney Lake.

Past Kinney Lake the trail continued into the Valley of A Thousand Falls. It was all very beautiful. SPHP enjoyed seeing Lupe crossing a fun swinging bridge over the Robson River. The trail started rising steeply once Lupe got to the area of the three main waterfalls a few km above Kinney Lake. Lupe came first to White Falls, then Falls of the Pool, and finally Emperor Falls.

Lupe after a successful crossing of the swinging bridge beyond Kinney Lake.

Valley of a Thousand Falls from the Robson River.

The falls were all spectacular and powerful, but the hike up started seeming long and hard. The trail was steep, it was rather warm out, and swarms of biting flies descended upon Lupe and SPHP at every stop for a breather. SPHP swatted hundreds of flies dead, but it was no use – their numbers were endless. The only real defense was to press steadily along.

The trail continued to climb after Lupe passed Emperor Falls, but not quite as steeply. Eventually it leveled out a great deal, and the climb was much more gradual making the trek far more enjoyable again. Lupe came to a wide valley with various streams of the braided Robson River meandering through it sparkling in the sun. A bit farther along, Lupe came to a barren rocky landscape which was mostly dry. By then there was a good view of Mt. Robson. The Berg and Mist glaciers could be seen coming down the mountain.

Above Emperor Falls approaching Mt. Robson.

Mt. Robson from the Berg Lake trail. — Mt. Robson and the Mist Glacier from the Berg Lake trail.

Lupe approaches the S end of Berg Lake. Berg Glacier is now in view.

Just past the dry rocky area Lupe crested a small ridge and finally saw Berg Lake ahead. The trail went into a stunted forest and continued N above the W shore of the lake. At the far N end of Berg Lake, Lupe and SPHP reached the campground 21 km from the trailhead where Lupe had started. Lupe and SPHP left the trail and went down to join others on the rocky N beach of Berg Lake.

Lupe on the N beach of Berg Lake. Mt. Robson and Berg Glacier across the lake. The Mist Glacier is also at the right side of the photo.

The Berg Glacier on Mt. Robson goes right down into Berg Lake.

The view of Mt. Robson (12,972 ft.) towering over Berg Lake was stupendous. Lupe and SPHP had a clear view of the Berg and Mist glaciers. Little icebergs that had calved off into Berg Lake from the Berg Glacier were floating in a line heading NW across the lake towards Lupe, driven by a breeze coming from the mountain. Lupe posed for some photos with Berg Lake, the glaciers and Mt. Robson in the background. She was hungry too, and eagerly devoured the Taste of the Wild SPHP had brought along for her.

Something catches Lupe's attention at Berg Lake. — Something catches Lupe’s attention at Berg Lake. Or perhaps she is thinking of going on to the Robson Glacier in the direction she is looking. Unfortunately, there wasn’t time for that.

SPHP would have liked to have gone on further. A few more kilometers would have brought Lupe to the third and most impressive glacier on Mt. Robson – the Robson glacier, which fills a valley and looks like the typical image of a long flowing river of ice the word glacier conjures up. What really would have been great was to spend the evening admiring Mt. Robson, camp out at the campground overnight, and spend the next day exploring the area. The map showed lots of interesting trails around.

However, the reality was that dogs aren’t allowed to camp there overnight. Pre-registration is required even for the humans. Lupe and SPHP could not stay. It was already late afternoon and another 21 km trek had to be made back out to the G6 to end the day. Lupe and SPHP lingered on the N beach of Berg Lake admiring Mt. Robson for quite a while. This was the farthest N (53.11°) Lupe had ever been and it was gorgeous! Inevitably though, the time came to leave.

Mt. Robson, Berg Lake & the Mist Glacier.

Reluctantly, Lupe and SPHP set off on the 21 km journey back to the G6. The return hike was long, but very enjoyable. Since it was getting late in the day, there were fewer and fewer people on the trails. The scenery was even more beautiful in the evening light as the shadows of the mountains grew. It certainly didn’t hurt that the way back was downhill either, for SPHP was feeling the effects of the long day.

Heading back. Whitehorn Mountain and the braided stream of the Robson River above Emperor Falls. — Heading back. **Whitehorn Mountain** **(11,152 ft.)** and the braided stream of the Robson River above Emperor Falls.

It was 11:18 PM and 59 °F when Lupe finally got back to the G6. Even at that late hour, that far N there was still a faint twilight in the sky, but it had been pretty dark out in the cedar forest. Lupe and SPHP had hardly eaten anything all day, so SPHP fixed up Lupe’s bed in the G6, let her leap in for a well deserved rest and gave her some Alpo. She was pretty famished and devoured 3/4 of a can before she was full and ready to snooze. SPHP had a Zone bar to get the blood sugar up. Then Lupe and SPHP went to sleep right there in the G6 at the Mt. Robson trailhead.

The glorious 42 km round trip trek to see Berg Lake and Mt. Robson was the final really long day hike of Lupe’s 2013 Dingo Vacation to the Beartooths and the Canadian Rockies. At daybreak the next morning, SPHP started the G6 up and began the long drive S back home to the States. It’s always a bit sad when it’s time to turn around, although there were still a few other stops and shorter hikes to come before Lupe left Canada.

Perhaps Lupe and SPHP will return some day and get an early enough start to not only reach Berg Lake again, but press on to the Robson Glacier! Driving S, SPHP thought about that, and about the even bigger dream of going on even further to see Alaska and the Yukon. Lupe just sat up on her perch enjoying the ride, sniffing the air through the partially open window, and watching for the next adventure – which as far as she knew might be right around the next bend.

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The Iceline Trail above tree line high up on the south side of Yoho Valley in Yoho National Park, British Columbia, Canada features tremendous views of glaciers, 260 meter high (850 feet) Takakkaw Falls from across Yoho Valley, and a splendid assortment of impressive peaks of the rugged Canadian Rockies. Lupe and SPHP both strongly recommend this wonderful medium to long day hike. Be prepared for plenty of company on pleasant days. The Iceline Trail is deservedly very popular.

On this day’s hike Lupe and SPHP started from the Takakkaw Falls parking lot off Yoho Valley Road. The Yoho Valley Road is accessed from Trans-Canada Hwy 1 a few miles NE of the little community of Field along the Kicking Horse River. Yoho Valley Road is paved, but has a couple of exceptionally sharp hairpin curves. Taking long vehicles (motorhomes, trailers) up this road is inadvisable.

A mist hung in the air when Lupe arrived at the Takakkaw Falls parking lot around 8:30 AM. Temps were already comfortably into the 40’s F. Lupe headed N on the Yoho Valley Trail and was soon out of the mist. Away from the mist of the falls, the sun was shining in a brilliant blue sky between puffy white clouds and quickly warmed things up.

The Yoho Valley Trail starts in the forest, comes out into a bit of open rocky ground, and then disappears into the forest again as it heads up the Yoho River valley. Although the trail parallels the river, it is far enough W of it so that the river is seldom visible.

Lupe near Laughing Falls on the Little Yoho River.

Lupe stopped by Laughing Falls for a couple of photos. Not far beyond Laughing Falls she took the Little Yoho Valley Trail heading W in the direction of the Stanley Mitchell hut. This trail climbed through the forest much more steeply with numerous switchbacks. Lupe passed the Marpole Lake Trail and before too long again came upon the gorgeous icy blue Little Yoho River. A short hike in the forest above and along the river brought Lupe to the Celeste Lake Trail, which crossed the Little Yoho River via a good bridge.

Lupe takes a look at Celeste Lake in Yoho National Park, Canada.

Across the river, the Celeste Lake Trail headed SW towards Celeste Lake. The Celeste Lake Trail continued climbing, but without many switchbacks. Celeste Lake proved to be a pretty emerald green color and a larger lake than it first appeared. It had two parts to it hidden from each other by a peninsula jutting out into the lake. The trail passed just E of Celeste Lake and offered some nice views of it. Once past Celeste Lake, the trail turned to the SW again and continued climbing.

Along the Celeste Lake Trail above Celeste Lake.

Eventually the Celeste Lake trail turned NW as it started to get near tree line. Soon it took another turn to the SW where the trail left the forest and came out into a fairly level area of green meadows full of wildflowers. Thin forests rimmed the meadows. Just beyond and above them to the W were huge piles of loose tan rocks below the solid rock and glacier-covered slopes of The Vice President (10,095 ft.).

The trail headed down a bit into the meadow, turned NW again, and working its way to the W edge of the meadow reached the base of the loose rock piles. From there the trail headed SSW steadily climbing the rock piles. Before long it turned W and reached the intersection with the Iceline Trail.

Down along the Yoho Valley Trail there had been some hikers, but along the Little Yoho Valley and Celeste Lake Trails there had been very few. There were hordes of people along the Iceline Trail though. Among the throng Lupe met a 74 year old man from San Diego whom she had seen twice before in the past day or two. He was quite friendly and had suggested the Sherbrooke Lake trail the previous day, which Lupe had taken.

This man had left San Diego in April or May and was traveling (apparently alone) in his RV and hiking trails all over the western USA and Canada. He said he wouldn’t head back to San Diego until November. (Now that is a mighty fine way to spend half a year!) SPHP dawdled along the trail chatting with this interesting gentleman, but never had the presence of mind to get any contact information from him. While Lupe waited for the conversation to end, at least other doggies came along the Iceline Trail for Lupe to sniff with.

Lupe on the rock pile which is the high point along the Iceline Trail. Mt. McArthur (center left) and Isolation Peak (center right) are separated by a huge snow/ice field. — Lupe on the rock pile which is the high point along the Iceline Trail. **Mt. McArthur** **(9,911 ft.)** (center left) and **Isolated Peak (9,262 ft.)** (center right) are separated by a huge snow/ice field. The Little Yoho River valley is also in view.

The high point along the Iceline Trail was not far to the N from the intersection with the Celeste Lake Trail. A relatively short walk took Lupe over there. A spur of the Iceline Trail climbs up on a tall pile of loose rock a short distance to the E of the main trail. This tall rock pile was Lupe’s goal for the day and she was soon there. A few people were up there when she arrived and more kept coming and going. Lupe rested, had some Taste of the Wild, plenty of water, and relaxed while snapping at a few annoying flies.

View to the S from the Iceline Trail towards the mountains in the O'Hara Lake and Lake Louise region. — View to the S from the Iceline Trail towards the mountains in the Lake O’Hara and Lake Louise region.

Mt. Balfour (center)looms above Trolltinder Mountain (lower left). — **Mt. Balfour (10,774 ft.)** (center) looms above **Trolltinder Mountain** **(9,554 ft.)** (sharp peak below and to the left).

The views from the high point were splendid in every direction. Immediately to the W were The Vice President and The President (10,246 ft.) although their summits were out of line of sight. To the N across Little Yoho Valley were Mt. McArthur, Isolated Peak, and Whaleback Mountain (8,586 ft.). To the E across Yoho Valley were Mount Balfour, Trolltinder Mountain, Lilliput Mountain (9,449 ft.), Mount Daly (10,039 ft.) and Mount Niles (9,751 ft.).

Parts of the Emerald Glacier, Yoho Glacier and Daly Glacier were in view plus many other snow and ice fields clinging to the mountains. To the S down the Yoho River valley and across the Kicking Horse River Valley were the high snow-capped peaks W of Lake Louise and Lake O’Hara.

Mt. Daly, Nigel Peak and Takakkaw Falls from the Iceline Trail, Yoho National Park, Canada — Mt. Daly (left center), Mt. Niles (right center) and Takakkaw Falls from the Iceline Trail, Yoho National Park, Canada. The Daly Glacier (far left), part of the Waputik Icefield, feeds Takakkaw Falls.

Lupe stayed at the high point enjoying the views for at least an hour, while others came and went. Sometime between 3:00 PM and 4:00 PM, it was time to head back down.

On the way back, Lupe took the most direct route back to Takakkaw Falls, which was to follow the Iceline Trail past the Celeste Lake Trail and Ridgeline Trail (which goes to Yoho Lake). Instead, she just headed straight on down a steep trail with many switchbacks that leads to the Whiskey Jack Creek area, and the hostel near Yoho Valley Road. Lupe was back to the Takakkaw Falls parking lot before 6:00 PM. Another day well spent in the Canadian Rockies!

Takakkaw Falls and the Yoho River, Yoho National Park, Canada

In July, 2013, Lupe had previously reached the Iceline Trail high point via another route, approaching from Emerald Lake and Yoho Lake. Click here to see Lupe’s post on that adventure!

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Takakkaw Falls, Yoho National Park, British Columbia, Canada (7-25-13)

Emerald Lake, Yoho Lake & the Iceline Trail High Point, Yoho National Park, British Columbia, Canada (7-24-13)

Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s 2014 Canadian Rockies & Beartooths Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Tag: British Columbia

The Berg Lake Trail, Mount Robson Provincial Park, British Columbia, Canada (7-30-13)

Iceline Trail High Point, Yoho National Park, Canada (7-26-14)