2017 Yukon & Alaska – Page 7 – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Pedro Dome & Donnelly Dome, Alaska (8-24-17 & 8-25-17)

Days 25 & 26 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

8-24-17, 3:46 PM, 58°F – About 10 miles from where the Steese Highway left its junction with the Elliot Highway NE of Fairbanks, Lupe and SPHP reached Cleary Summit. A large pullout at the start of a long gravel side road just E of the highway provided a convenient spot to stash the G6. From here, the side road continued E toward what must be a residential area judging from a long line of mailboxes nearby.

Lupe hopped out, still looking woozy. She hadn’t been feeling well. Up until now, she’d spent the day resting in the G6 while SPHP ran errands in Fairbanks without accomplishing much of anything except washing a ton of Dalton Highway mud off the now sparkling G6. A short while ago, the Carolina Dog had urped up on her blankets – nothing major, and she did seem to feel somewhat better after that.

Maybe fresh air and a little light peakbagging would help speed Looper’s recovery from whatever was ailing her? Lupe and SPHP crossed over the Steese Highway and headed W on Pedro Dome Road.

Pedro Dome Road was a wide gravel road. At first there were mailboxes, driveways, and other signs of habitation in the area. Lupe was quickly beyond most of that, but vehicles still occasionally drove by. Both sides of the road were lined with thick jungley stands of tall alder bushes.

The sickly Dingo’s peakbagging destination was an easy one. Pedro Dome (2,592 ft.) was only 3 miles from the Steese Highway. Pedro Dome Road or some offshoot should take her right on up to the summit. Total elevation gain required was less than 400 feet. SPHP could probably have simply driven the G6 right on up to the top of the mountain, but where’s the fun in that? Besides, Loop needed to spend some time out of the G6, anyway.

On the way here, Looper had stopped at a rest area along the Steese Highway. There SPHP had learned that Pedro Dome was named after Felix Pedro, an Italian immigrant who sparked a local gold rush in 1902 when he discovered gold in the Tanana River valley. During his prospecting days, Felix Pedro had actually climbed Pedro Dome. Lupe wasn’t expecting to find any gold, but was looking forward to seeing whatever Felix had seen from up on Pedro Dome over a century ago.

She might not see much of anything. Nearly a mile from Steese Highway, Looper reached an intersection where Pedro Dome was in view ahead. A thick spruce and alder forest covered the whole mountain. Several large towers stood up on a large, flat summit.

Almost a mile from the Steese Highway, Lupe has her first view of **Pedro Dome** ahead. Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.

Now that the mountain was in view, Pedro Dome Road made a big curve to the NW. The road followed a ridgeline before turning SW again. Lupe came to a couple more intersections, but it was always easy to see which way to go. Along the way, she had occasional views of big forested ridges and distant low peaks. On the final approach, the road headed S along Pedro Dome’s upper E slope. A subsequent curve to the W brought Lupe to the summit.

The summit area was round and a good 10 to 15 acres in size. Only a fraction of the entire area could be seen from any one spot, since most of the summit was covered with the forest Looper had seen from afar. The highest part of the mountain was toward the NW, but the terrain was so flat no particular point stood out as being the true summit.

Four large towers and a number of smaller ones dominated the top of Pedro Dome. A maze of gravel or grassy roads radiated out from a large patch of bare ground where Lupe had come up providing access to these towers. Loop and SPHP visited each of the four largest towers, a couple of which were fenced off and bore “No Trespassing” signs.

Due to all the vegetation, there were few places to get much of a view from Pedro Mountain. A couple of minor side roads leading into the dense alder bush jungle went all the way to the S and W edges of the summit to provide what views there were.

The view to the W was pretty, but would have been better on a clearer day. Fewer wires wouldn’t have hurt a thing either.

Steese Highway is in view down in the **Pedro Creek valley**. Fairbanks (R) is in this direction in the distance, but hidden by low hills and ridges. Photo looks SSW.

Due in part to the haziness of the atmosphere, the views from Pedro Dome were pretty, but no more than that. All the towers and man made stuff didn’t do a thing for SPHP either. Lupe had the best time on Pedro Dome. She loved the shady grassy roads away from the towers, and had a grand time sniffing and exploring her way through the alder jungles where SPHP couldn’t go.

Apparently coming to Pedro Dome had done the American Dingo some good. Lupe was noticeably happier, more lively, and active up on the summit. She continued to enjoy exploring the alders now and then on the pleasant trek back to the G6. (6:16 PM, 61°F) Though the trip to Pedro Dome was the only active thing Loop and SPHP did all day, that probably wasn’t a bad thing. A day of rest was overdue.

Feeling better after her alder jungle journeys up on Pedro Dome, Lupe starts on the road back to the G6. Photo looks NE.

A final look back at **Pedro Dome** from where Lupe had first seen it. Photo looks SW.

8-25-17 – After spending the night in Fairbanks, Lupe and SPHP left town heading SE on Highway No. 2. At Delta Junction SPHP took Richardson Highway No. 4 going S. In 2016, Lupe had been on this road going the opposite direction. It had been a rainy, misty day. Loop had barely seen the rugged mountains of the Alaska Range that the road passed through. Much of what she did see looked daunting and inaccessible.

However, once the Richardson Highway was over the Alaska Range, the highway had dropped down to much lower, flatter territory on the way to Delta Junction. Here, Lupe had seen a high solitary hill. The hill was close to the highway, and looked like such an attractive peakbagging objective SPHP had stopped briefly to consider making an ascent right then and there. In the end, even though the rain had stopped, the weather still looked too iffy. Lupe and SPHP had driven on.

Since then, SPHP had learned the name of that solitary hill was Donnelly Dome. Today, more than a year since she’d first seen it, Lupe was on her way back to find and climb it. Donnelly Dome is situated 18 miles S of Delta Junction on the W side of Richardson Highway No. 4. SPHP didn’t have to drive far out of Delta Junction before Lupe once again spotted Donnelly Dome (3,910 ft.) up ahead.

**Donnelly Dome** from Richardson Highway No. 4. Photo looks SW.

Looking for a place offering both possible access to the mountain and a good place to stash the G6, SPHP found a gravel side road on the W side of the highway about 50 feet S of milepost 247. A flat area large enough to accommodate 2 or 3 vehicles was close to the start of this road. SPHP parked the G6 and Loopster hopped out. (12:09 PM)

More than a year after she’d first seen **Donnelly Dome**, Lupe is back to see if she can get to the top. Photo looks NW.

The day was brightly sunny and pleasantly breezy as Loop started for Donnelly Dome. Bushes waist high on SPHP crowded both sides of the road, so Lupe did the obvious, easy thing and simply followed the road. SPHP could have driven the G6 somewhat closer to the mountain, but it wasn’t long before the road deteriorated to a point where high clearance would have been required.

The road was soon winding around on a series of little hilltops. Spirits were high as Lupe and SPHP drew nearer to the mountain. This was looking like a great day to climb Donnelly Dome. Lupe had seen some huge white peaks of the Alaska Range to the SW from the Richardson Highway on the way here. The views of those mighty peaks from up on Donnelly Dome ought to be stunning. The prospect was exciting!

*Oh, this is going to be a great day to climb **Donnelly Dome**, SPHP! I can already see some white monsters up ahead!*

At one point, the road overlooked a small pond where Lupe saw 4 ducks. Beyond this pond, the road started fading away. It eventually turned S away from Donnelly Dome, but Loopster found a good single track trail in this area that headed W through the bushes toward the mountain. Lupe couldn’t see much of anything due to the bushes, but she was going the right way.

The single track trail became a maze of interconnecting alternate paths as it wound through the bushes, but Lupe eventually arrived on higher open ground free of bushes at the base of the mountain. A cairn sat up on this bare ground. Lupe was at the far SE end of Donnelly Dome.

Donnelly Dome must be a popular destination. A heavily worn trail left the open ground near the cairn, plunging right back into the bushes. This trail began climbing so aggressively up the steep side of Donnelly Dome that SPHP was often clinging to bushes for support. A bunch of loose rock on the trail didn’t help matters any.

After gaining a fair amount of elevation, the trail became somewhat less steep as it went NNW along Donnelly Dome’s E slope. Lupe was making good progress. She was above most of the bushes, which thinned out a great deal up here. Views to the E were already impressive. By now, however, what had been merely a pleasant breeze down below was an annoyingly strong S wind.

By the time Lupe was above most of the bushes, the views were already impressive! **Panoramic Peak (5,150 ft.)** is in the distance at far L. The G6, too small to be seen, is parked by the Richardson Hwy not far from the largest lake at Center. The duck pond is closer by. Photo looks E.

Looking S toward part of the **Alaska Range**. Richardson Highway No. 4 is in clear view below. Looper is already feeling rather windswept.

Looking up the mountain from the same spot. The high point ahead isn’t anywhere close to the summit yet. Lupe came to quite a few false summits along the way. Photo looks NW.

Lupe climbed and climbed. The trail was braided. She often had her choice of routes. They all headed the same general direction, NNW along the E slope of the mountain. SPHP kept hoping the mountain would provide some protection from the wind if Loop went far enough N, but the wind only got stronger the higher she went.

After a while, it kept looking like Lupe was about to reach Donnelly Dome’s summit ridge. Each time she reached a high point, it all proved to be an illusion. Hardly any bushes remained by the time the Carolina Dog found herself on the most barren, windswept, steepest slope yet.

Loopster on a steep slope with her nose into the wind and her eyes closed due to the bright sunshine. Although she’s already gained a lot of elevation, there’s still more to go! Photo looks WNW.

It seemed like Lupe had made it quite a long way N along the E slope of the mountain. She had gained what looked like an incredible amount of elevation, yet there was only supposed to be 1,660 feet of elevation gain from the highway to the top of Donnelly Dome.

SPHP resolved to leave the trail. Looper would climb straight on up this steep slope. The top didn’t look that much farther. The summit had to be close by now, didn’t it? Grabbing whatever was handy, which wasn’t much of consequence, SPHP started up. With her 4 on the floor, Looper powered her way up the slope with ease.

Top of the mountain? Hah! When Lupe reached the upper end of the slope, she wasn’t at the top of anything. This was just the E lip of a more gentle slope going up. Another trail here led still higher, continuing NNW. At least this was far easier terrain than that super steep slope. Lupe ought to be able to make a lot faster progress. The way the wind was roaring up here, it might blow her clear to the top of the mountain, or off it completely.

*At least this is easier than where we were, SPHP! Provided we don’t blow away, that is*. Photo looks NW.

Lupe wasn’t as far N along the mountain as SPHP had thought. She was still coming up from the SSE. She didn’t have to go far on this upper trail, though, before it was clear the Carolina Dog actually had made it to the broad, sparsely vegetated summit ridge. The upper trail faded. The top of Donnelly Dome (3,910 ft.) was directly ahead 200 yards away.

Lupe reaches Donnelly Dome’s long, broad summit ridge. The top of the mountain is straight ahead only 200 yards away. Photo looks NNW.

Although it was now certain Lupe was going to reach the top of Donnelly Dome, there was bad news, too. During the American Dingo’s ascent, the mountain had blocked her view of the huge white peaks of the Alaska Range off to the SW. Upon attaining the summit ridge, she immediately had a panoramic view in that direction.

The monstrous white peaks Looper had seen before she began her climb in earnest were gone! The fierce S wind had blown in a giant cloud bank that somehow clung stubbornly to the Alaska Range. Despite the wind, those clouds didn’t seem to be going anywhere. Only a tiny fraction of the formerly glorious views remained, glimpses of parts of individual peaks that didn’t convey the same overall impression at all.

So disappointing! And aggravating to think that if Loop had only arrived a couple of hours earlier, she would have seen the entire grand display. Well, it was what it was. Lupe could still see a lot from up here. The clouds weren’t everywhere, just unfortunately concentrated where the best views should have been. In any case, Lupe didn’t waste any time getting to the summit. The wind was going to make staying up here for very long far less enjoyable than it should have been.

The summit area was a nearly flat 0.5 acre strewn with mostly smallish rocks. A variety of cairns were present. Two were considerably larger than the rest. They were positioned near the SW and NE edges of the summit. The SW cairn was at Donnelly Dome’s true summit. Everything else was clearly a little lower.

A steady 30-35 mph wind scoured the mountaintop. Not a hurricane, by any means, but Lupe didn’t care for it one bit. The big SW cairn was built up like a wall. The Carolina Dog eagerly took refuge behind it whenever she didn’t have photo duties to fulfill.

Lupe reaches the biggest cairn at the true summit of **Donnelly Dome**. It was actually more like a wall than a cairn, for which Looper was thankful since it gave her at least some protection from the wind. The **Delta River valley** and part of the **Alaska Range** are in view in the distance. Photo looks SSW.

Up on the cairn or rock wall – whatever you want to call it. Note the 2 stone tablets with writing on them. Photo looks SW.

Lupe still up on the biggest cairn, but looking NW now. The Alaska oil pipeline can be seen, as well as the **Delta River**.

Right away, SPHP noticed two flat rocks with writing on them propped up against the rock wall cairn. A large group of military personnel, no doubt from Eielson AFB, had been here on 7-23-17, only a month and a day ago. The “Peacocks” and “Night Train”, presumably two separate units, had recorded their names on these stone tablets. Names were scrawled on many smaller rocks, too.

SPHP was unable to find any registry other than these rocks, so after poking around the true summit at the largest cairn, Loop next paid a visit to the NE cairn. It was a poorly organized pile of rocks, but Lupe had a fabulous view to the E from here. She saw Panoramic Peak (5,150 ft.) and other peaks in the Granite Mountains area.

Loopster in the wind on the poorly organized NE cairn. **Panoramic Peak** (far L) is in view. Photo looks E.

Looking back toward the true summit at the big SW rock wall cairn (R). This is a good view of a large portion of the summit area. Photo looks SW.

Having been to both of the big cairns, some relief from the gale was in order. Loop retreated far enough down the N slope of the mountain to feel fairly well sheltered. Here, Lupe and SPHP took a pleasant break. Lupe could see the N spine of Donnelly Dome. The Delta River and Alaska oil pipeline headed N across many miles of level terrain toward small mountains in the distance.

Lupe where she took refuge from the wind on the N side of Donnelly Dome. Loop and SPHP enjoyed a nice break here. Photo looks NW.

After the break, it was time for a few more photos. Loopster thought it best to continue hiding out from the wind as best she could behind the big rock wall cairn. SPHP wandered around looking at this and that.

Zoomed in on an unknown peak of the **Alaska Range**. Photo looks SW.

Oh, yeah! Zoomed in on a big white mountain of the **Alaska Range**. If the clouds would have dissipated, Lupe would have seen many more white mountains like this one from **Donnelly Dome**.

**Panoramic Peak** (far L) in shadow. Photo looks E.

Lupe relaxes at least somewhat protected from the wind while waiting for SPHP to finish up here. Photo looks SW.

The **Delta River** flows N out of the **Alaska Range**. Photo looks SSW.

Looper the Trooper comes out into the wind for another photo shortly before leaving the Donnelly Dome summit. Photo looks W.

The temperature had to be in the mid 50’s °F, which ordinarily would have been quite comfortable. However, it felt chilly in the wind. SPHP made only a half-hearted effort to search for the Pillsbury survey benchmark shown on the topo map, and didn’t find it. Oh, well. Hardly mattered. 35 minutes after reaching the summit of Donnelly Dome, Lupe was ready to begin her descent.

35 minutes after reaching the summit of **Donnelly Dome**, Loop is ready to start the descent. Photo looks SE.

Lupe retraced her route up on the way down. SPHP was plenty slow as usual on the steep slopes. Some sort of military plane practicing takeoffs from a dusty landing strip 4 miles off to the NNE provided the only real excitement. The plane buzzed Donnelly Dome several times, which set the American Dingo off into ferocious barking fits.

Looking ESE before leaving the summit ridge.

This military plane practicing take offs and landings provided Lupe with some excitement on her way down **Donnelly Dome**.

The plane beats a hurried retreat after threatened by a ferocious Dingo on Donnelly Dome. Photo looks NE.

Many hours of daylight remained when Lupe made it back to the G6. (4:33 PM) With Loop’s breezy Donnelly Dome adventure successfully concluded, the plan was to continue S on Richardson Highway No. 4 up into the Alaska Range to see some of the sights she had missed due to poor weather in 2016. Clouds still hampered the views in most places, but Lupe did see a big glacier E of the highway.

Loop saw this impressive glacier E of the Richardson Highway up in the **Alaska Range**.

By the time Lupe reached Summit Lake, patches of blue sky existed among the cloud cover.

Lupe arrives at **Summit Lake**. By now patches of blue sky were scattered among the cloud cover. Photo looks SW.

Sunlight shimmers on **Summit Lake**. Richardson Highway No. 4 passes right along the E shore of this scenic 6 mile long mountain lake. Photo looks WSW.

Sunlight brightens a hillside E of **Summit Lake**. Photo looks NE.

3 or 4 miles S of Summit Lake, just S of Paxson, SPHP turned W on Denali Highway No. 8. The first 14 miles of this 136 mile long road connecting Paxson and Cantwell are paved. Lupe had only seen the W 10 or 12 miles of Denali Highway No. 8 back in 2016. This time, she was going to travel the entire route. The evening drive was beautiful. Loop and SPHP stopped now and then for photos along the way.

The first 14 miles of Denali Highway No. 8 going W from Paxson are paved. The evening drive was beautiful the whole way. Loop stopped a number of times for photos and a bit of sniffing around. Photo looks NW.

As Lupe got farther W, Denali Highway No. 8 turned to dirt and gravel. The highway was fairly rough in places with potholes and such, so SPHP had to drive quite slowly. That was fine! The scenery was spectacular. This area felt strangely as remote as the Dalton Highway had been.

To the N, Lupe saw snow-capped peaks of the Amphitheater Mountains. Sometimes glaciers were in view right from the road. To the SW were a number of high rounded hills. They looked like easy climbs, but were a long way from the highway.

A view of the **Amphitheater Mountains** from Denali Highway No. 8. Photo looks NNE.

Several large hills SW of the highway looked like easy climbs for Lupe, but they were a long way off. Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.

Denali Highway No. 8 eventually turned NNW and went down a long slope taking Lupe into the Maclaren River valley. Looper could see the toe of the Maclaren Glacier far upriver. Near the Maclaren River, the American Dingo had a close encounter with a grizzly bear!

One might think that an encounter with a grizzly bear would be the most memorable event of almost any day. The feisty American Dingo came out on top, but didn’t seem to think it was such a big deal. In fact, she appeared rather bored with the whole affair.

Denali Highway No. 8 heads down into the Maclaren River valley. A little piece of the **Maclaren Glacier** (upper R) is already visible from here. Photo looks N.

Looking up the **Maclaren River** toward the toe of the **Maclaren Glacier.** Photo looks N with help from the telephoto lens.

Near the Maclaren River, Loopster encounters a grizzly bear. SPHP gave her a boost so she could come out on top. Photo looks ENE.

*Oh, you’re just a riot, SPHP! Can I get off this thing yet?*

*This is better. Can we just stick to the scenery from now on? That was embarrassing!*

W of the Maclaren River, the light began to fade. Evening was drawing to a close. Lupe saw many pullouts along the highway, but for a long way they were all full of vehicles and people camping out. The Carolina Dog finally arrived at an unoccupied pullout 47 miles from Cantwell. The light was almost gone now. This would have to do.

By now Lupe was happy to get out of the G6. The incredibly dangerous predator Dingo, who had recently come out on top in her encounter with a grizzly bear, spent the rest of the evening prowling around in the bushes as dusk turned to night.

Evening along Denali Highway No. 8, Alaska 8-25-17

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Slope Mountain & Highlights of the Dalton Highway Revisited, Alaska (8-22-17 & 8-23-17)

Days 23 & 24 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

8-22-17, 1:00 AM, near the Sagavanirktok River, Deadhorse, Alaska – SPHP woke up thinking it might be possible for Lupe to see the Northern Lights. Only 2 hours ago, the evening sky had been mostly clear. Dream on. Not now. Foggy, again. Maybe later?

No. A thick fog prevailed every time SPHP checked. Northern Lights? Not happening.

4:14 AM – Still no change. Time to get going anyway. The Aurora Hotel in Deadhorse would be serving breakfast 4:30 AM to 7:30 AM. SPHP didn’t want to miss out on that. May as well beat the crowd and arrive early! Lunch there yesterday had been fabulous.

4:37 AM, 39°F – Beat the crowd? Ridiculous! So naive, it’s funny! The Aurora’s parking lot is already jammed with white pickup trucks. Deadhorse is wide awake and bustling with activity. Oilfield workers are getting breakfast in preparation for the long work day ahead. SPHP finds a spot to squeeze the G6 into. Loopster will have to wait here, but SPHP promises to save her something good from breakfast.

The breakfast buffet is simply awesome! All you can eat for $12.00, tax included. The lady SPHP pays is named Terry. Terry says to feel free when leaving to use one of the paper bags or Styrofoam boxes to take enough extra food for a mid-morning snack later on. Oh, yeah! This is Loopster’s lucky day.

The buffet has pancakes, eggs, muffins, toast, waffles, potatoes, sausages, ham, bacon, fresh fruits, cottage cheese, tea, coffee, fruit juices, soft drinks and so much more. You name it, the Aurora’s got it. Whatever you want, as much as you like. The huge dining room is 80% full with oilfield workers packing it away. They are talking, laughing, and watching the morning news on big flat screen monitors mounted around the room. SPHP sits near one of the huge windows with a view of Lake Colleen, watching ducks and geese in the early morning gloom.

None of the other tourists Lupe and SPHP had met along the Dalton Highway had anything good to say about Deadhorse. Industrial. Ugly. Flat. Boring. Nothing to do. Only a dull, drab turnaround spot for those who bothered going all the way to the end of the Dalton Highway.

Maybe Lupe agreed with them? She hadn’t been able to go on the Arctic Ocean tour with SPHP yesterday, although she’d enjoyed a couple of nice walks along the beautiful Sagavanirktok River.

SPHP didn’t feel that way about Deadhorse at all. Industrial? Yes. Kind of ugly? Yes. Yet it was awesome being way up here near the Arctic Ocean on the N edge of North America. It would be fun to work up here and experience all the radically changing seasons of a long Arctic year, see whatever exotic wildlife might appear, and be part of a crew working long hours to keep the oilfield producing despite tough conditions.

It was exciting just watching the camaraderie of everyone getting ready to go to work in a very special environment. Of course, maybe SPHP is just plain nuts.

Oh, Loop! You lucky, Dingo!

Hmm? What do you mean, SPHP? What are you talking about?

You have just hit the jackpot Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood!

I have? How?

Take a look at this! Fresh bacon, sausages, and ham from the Aurora Hotel! No smuggling a few tidbits to you this time around. They said it was alright. They expected and even encouraged me to take it!

Lupe’s eyes sparkled! Why, it was a box full of delicious, delectable treasures! She wasn’t just dreaming either. It was all real. She was rich!

I can’t believe it! All this for me? Can I have some now?

Go right ahead, Loop. Help yourself. Chow down while I find the gas station and fill up the G6. We’ll be on our way out of Deadhorse soon.

What’s the rush? Maybe we should stick around and make this a tradition? Mmmm. Oh my, this is scrumptious! Thanks so much, SPHP!

After fueling up the G6, SPHP wrote up the second postcard that Lupe was sending to her Grandma from Deadhorse, the one with a picture of a sunset over Prudhoe Bay. Then it was back to the Aurora Hotel real quick like to mail it. It was light out now. The fog was beginning to thin as Lupe and SPHP drove past Deadhorse Camp for the last time, starting the long journey S on the Dalton Highway. (6:24 AM, 38°F)

6:58 AM, 34°F – Ten miles out of Deadhorse, the fog dissipates rapidly. It was only a ground fog. The Carolina Dog soon has views of morning sunlight on the flat tundra. Mist rises from ponds and streams.

Lupe 15 miles out of Deadhorse on what is rapidly becoming a beautiful morning on Alaska’s North Slope.

8:38 AM, 47°F on the Dalton Highway – Woke up too many times last night. After following a pilot car for 14 miles, SPHP is already sleepy. A few miles farther, and Lupe is on a big hill near the place where she’d seen a faint rainbow on the way to Deadhorse a couple of days ago. There’s a pullout by the road. SPHP parks behind a couple of semi trucks. Nap time despite the early hour!

10:19 AM – Awake and feeling much better. Lupe is on her way again. Pretty day. Stop now and then for photos of the Sagavanirktok River. The Brooks Range is in view far beyond the river, but Loop is getting closer to it as she continues S.

Lupe along the Dalton Highway with the **Sagavanirktok River** and the **Brooks Range** in sight beyond her. Photo looks SE.

**Sagavanirktok River** from the Dalton Highway. Photo looks NE.

The **Sagavanirktok River** flows N out of the **Brooks Range** all the way to the Arctic Ocean near Deadhorse and Prudhoe Bay. Photo looks SE.

Foothills of the **Brooks Range** from an unnamed pond along the **Dalton Highway**. Photo looks S.

11:37 AM, 57°F – On the way N to Deadhorse 2 days ago, Lupe had seen a lone mountain among clouds and mist not terribly far from the W side of the Dalton Highway. Although there were lots more mountains off to the E, none of them were accessible, because Lupe would have had to ford the Sagavanirktok River to get to them. However, that one lone mountain to the W had looked like access might not be an issue. This mountain has been in view now for the past half hour. Loop will soon be drawing near it again.

12:03 PM – Parked at the start of an Alaska oil pipeline access road just W of the Dalton Highway. On the other side of the highway, a different side road heads E. A street sign says “Slope Mountain Camp 1”. The lone mountain W of the Dalton Highway must be Slope Mountain (4,010 ft.)! Even though it’s still a few miles off to the SW, it’s the only notable peak anywhere in this vicinity.

After a couple of days spent mostly in the G6, Lupe is ready for action! It would be great fun to climb a mountain way out here on Alaska’s North Slope, and Slope Mountain is the best candidate she’s seen. It’s not clear if she will have to ford any streams to get to the mountain, but it’s worth a reconnaissance trip to check it out. If Looper can get to the base of Slope Mountain, success seems assured. It looks like an easy climb.

The first part of the trek is a cinch. Lupe and SPHP follow the access road leading to the Alaska oil pipeline, then follow the service road near the pipeline SW. The plan is to get as close as possible to a large saddle between Slope Mountain and a lower hill to the NE before leaving the service road to strike out for the saddle.

Lupe near the red gate at the start of the access road leading to the Alaska oil pipeline. She will follow a service road near the pipeline SW (L) before striking out for the big saddle seen beyond her in the distance. Photo looks W.

As Lupe follows the pipeline, it becomes apparent that there is almost certainly a stream between here and Slope Mountain. No stream is in view, but a telltale line of tall bushes 0.25 mile away runs along the lowest part of a large drainage area. The only way to find out how big the stream might be is to march right on down there.

Away from the service road, the tundra becomes increasingly boggy and full of tussocks as Loop makes her way down a long slope. Upon reaching the bushes, she has to cross a couple of gullies which must represent old, abandoned stream channels. Lupe forces a way through a thick stand of bushes, and arrives on the bank of a small river.

After forcing a way through the bushes, Lupe arrives at a small river. Photo looks W.

The stream is deepest near the opposite bank, and appears to be at least knee deep on SPHP. Bushes crowding the far shore look like they might make getting out of the stream a bit of a pain, and the current is fairly strong. Yes, the river looks fordable, but SPHP isn’t eager to take it on. Lupe will have to swim, and it isn’t clear where she can get out on the other side.

Lupe and SPHP stand there, pondering the situation. Things don’t look much different either upstream or downstream. Hmm. So close, yet so far! The stream isn’t dangerous, but not wanting to get soaking wet, SPHP finally decides it isn’t worth risking slipping and falling in, which might easily happen. The river is just a little too deep, and the current a little too strong.

Sigh. Lupe and SPHP turn and head back to the Alaska oil pipeline service road. The return trip is a fun hike, and the Carolina Dog has a blast sniffing and exploring all along the way.

Once back at the G6 (2:03 PM), SPHP continues driving S on the Dalton Highway. Even though Looper’s initial reconnaissance hasn’t produced the desired result, perhaps there is an alternative? Maybe a route to Slope Mountain exists which avoids the river, or at least crosses it at a more favorable point?

Not until Lupe is S of Slope Mountain does SPHP find what looks like the most promising approach. Shortly after the Dalton Highway crosses the small river (signed Oskyruk… something or other) that blocked Lupe’s first attempt, SPHP parks the G6 at a small pullout near the top of a rise. This pullout is 100 feet S of milepost 297 on the E side of the road.

Across the highway, a long golden slope beyond the Alaska oil pipeline leads toward the mountain. No major drainages can be seen between here and Slope Mountain’s summit. The summit is once again miles away, and Loop faces a long trek to a big ramp leading up to the top of the mountain. Nevertheless, the American Dingo shouldn’t have any problem getting there from here!

Lupe ready for another attempt on **Slope Mountain**. The summit is on the L. Photo looks NNE.

This time (2:33 PM, 57°F), the Carolina Dog follows the Alaska oil pipeline service road a mile NE until it starts to lose elevation. She then leaves the road, turning N to begin a long, steady trek up the golden slope leading to Slope Mountain.

Unsurprisingly, much of the tundra is spongy and wet. Tussocks slow SPHP’s progress, and make the gentle climb far more energy draining than it would be on firmer terrain. Wide bands of greener vegetation mark the course of numerous little streams seeping and trickling down the long slope.

Loop and SPHP plod on and on, aiming for the lower end of a big golden ramp, an obvious route leading almost all the way to the top of Slope Mountain. This is such a remote area, SPHP has high hopes Lupe will see some animals up here, but none ever appear. SPHP does scare up a flight of 5 or 6 birds, which excites the American Dingo! For a while, she dashes around in wide circles searching for more, but doesn’t come across any.

Nothing really changes until Loop reaches the base of a fairly steep rocky hillside. An easy scramble brings Loop up onto the big ramp she has been aiming for all this time. Part of the ramp is strewn with loose rock, and the rest consists of still more spongy, damp tundra.

After a miles long march across a tussocky slope and a short scramble up a hillside of rock, Lupe arrives on the big ramp she will follow almost all the way to the top of **Slope Mountain**. Photo looks NE.

The rocky parts of the ramp are easier traveling than the soggy tundra. For quite a long way, Lupe sticks to the rocky SE edge of the ramp where the views are best. When the rocks eventually give out, she crosses the tundra to reach the base of the higher ridge to the NW.

Along the SE edge of the big ramp. Loop eventually went over to the base of the highest ridge seen on the L, and continued up the ramp over there. She didn’t climb up onto the highest ridge until she was nearly to the top of the mountain. Photo looks NE.

Lupe and SPHP follow the base of the higher ridge, staying close to the area where the rocks and tundra meet. Many rocks have broken into relatively thin flat layers. In some places, they form a sort of natural flagstone pathway.

Back down on the long slope leading to Slope Mountain, Lupe had stuck pretty close to SPHP most of the time. Up on the big ramp, though, Looper takes off running and exploring. She runs far ahead of SPHP, and spends her time investigating whatever her super sensitive Dingo nose tells her might be interesting. Apparently, she finds actually being up on Slope Mountain more to her liking.

Loop hasn’t quite reached the end of the big ramp when SPHP figures maybe it’s time to climb up onto the higher ridge. This involves another easy scramble, and doesn’t take long. Upon reaching the top, a large tower is in sight only 200 yards off to the N. The tower stands at the summit of Slope Mountain (4,010 ft.).

Almost there! Lupe discovers this big tower at the summit of **Slope Mountain**. Photo looks N.

Although climbing **Slope Mountain** wasn’t at all difficult, SPHP told Lupe it was still one of her greatest accomplishments. After all, **Slope Mountain** is farther N than any other mountain she has ever climbed. Surely, few Dingoes have ever been on a mountain N of the Brooks Range in Alaska! Photo looks N.

Mechanical noises are coming from a couple of sheds near the tower. The summit area is 5 to 10 acres in size, flat to gently sloping, and covered with small rocks and sparse vegetation. To the N and E, a lip of the mountain drops off rather sharply, but the resulting cliffs aren’t all that high. Passing by the tower, Lupe sees two cairns ahead.

By far the largest cairn is a tower of flat stones near the N edge of the summit area. Someone had put an awful lot of work into creating it.

Lupe by the largest of two cairns on **Slope Mountain**. Someone had put an awful lot of work into building this one! Photo looks E.

Lupe had tremendous views of Alaska’s North Slope from up on **Slope Mountain**. The **Sagavanirktok River** is seen in the distance. Photo looks NE.

More than 50 feet to the W, a faded orange wind sock flies above a much smaller cairn. This cairn is decorated with antlers.

Lupe checks the wind direction indicated by the faded orange wind sock at the top of the smaller cairn. She didn’t really need the wind sock, though, to tell that a chilly breeze was now blowing out of the S. Photo looks NW.

Although it had been sunny and comfortably warm when Lupe struck out for Slope Mountain, a chilly S breeze is blowing now. The sky has clouded over to a considerable degree, and is rather dark to the S where a line of showers can be seen N of the Brooks Range. SPHP forgot the rain poncho back at the G6, so a cold rain is nothing to look forward to.

Unfortunately, with the weather deteriorating, Lupe isn’t going to be able to stay up on top of Slope Mountain very long. About 15 minutes is all the Carolina Dog is going to get before it will be time to vamoose. That is a shame. The views of Alaska’s North Slope are fantastic!

Off to the W is a 6 mile long row of big rounded hills featuring sweeping curves. These hills are roughly 400 feet lower than Slope Mountain. Lupe can see the top of slightly higher Imnavait Mountain (3,702 ft.) 10 miles away beyond them.

**Imnavait Mountain** (Center) appears a few miles beyond a line of big rounded hills W of **Slope Mountain**. Photo looks WNW.

To the N, dark beneath a purple gray sky, Alaska’s flat, featureless North Slope stretches away to a dim horizon. The Sagavanirktok River, which Lupe has come to know over the past couple of days, can still be seen many miles away to the NE. Both the Alaska oil pipeline and Dalton Highway are visible closer by in this direction, too.

The best views, however, are of Alaska’s mighty Brooks Range running 180° from the NE to the E and S all the way around to the SW. Lupe sees many fabulous snow capped peaks, but SPHP doesn’t know the names of any of them.

The **Accomplishment Creek** valley (Center). Photo looks SE toward the **Brooks Range**.

Lupe could see many impressive snowy peaks of the **Brooks Range**. Photo looks SSE.

SPHP is very glad Lupe has made it to the top of Slope Mountain, but it is disappointing to have to depart so soon. Yet it’s the prudent thing to do. Loopster stands sniffing the breeze for a final few moments, while SPHP gazes in wonder upon the glorious views from the mountain farthest N of all the peaks Lupe has ever climbed.

Even concentrating with my eyes closed, I can’t detect a thing, SPHP. I was hoping to sniff out some more ham, bacon and sausages from the Aurora Hotel. I wish you would have brought some in your pocket!

As Looper and SPHP leave Slope Mountain’s summit, electronic noises similar to animal calls begin being emitted from somewhere over by the big tower. Very strange indeed, but no animals appear in response to the tower’s pleas. The noises are soon left behind. Lupe follows the big ramp back down to about where she first reached it on her way up the mountain.

From here, the Carolina Dog takes a more direct route down to the Alaska oil pipeline. This saves time, but it’s still a long way, and results in a longer, but easier march back on the service road to the G6. Thankfully, the rain showers never do catch up with Lupe, having drifted off in another direction. (8:40 PM, 51°F)

The evening is spent some miles farther S at a very large pullout along the E side of the Dalton Highway where a semi truck sits idling. The pullout is on a high spot from which Lupe can still see Slope Mountain as dusk creeps over the land. (9:40 PM)

8-23-17, 6:25 AM, 38°F at a pullout along the Dalton Highway within sight of Slope Mountain, Toolik Lake, and the N side of the Brooks Range – That semi truck idled for hours here last night, but finally quit. A hard rain then fell for a while, but it’s not raining now. For once it isn’t foggy out. The morning sky is mostly cloudy, but these clouds are high and non-threatening. Small patches of blue sky mean there’s still hope Lupe stands a chance of climbing Table Mountain (6,314 ft.) today, her last peakbagging goal along the Dalton Highway.

While the morning sky wasn’t super encouraging, there was still hope Lupe would be able to climb Table Mountain today, her last 2017 peakbagging goal along the Dalton Highway. Photo looks SE toward the **Brooks Range**.

7:30 AM, 38°F – After driving S a little way just to warm up, SPHP parks the G6 again at the side road near milepost 278 where Lupe has twice gone on her short Stroll to the North Slope Knoll adventures. Loop and SPHP share a breakfast of soup, while enjoying views of the North Slope and the N side of the Brooks Range for the last time.

9:18 AM, 44°F – It’s a lovely day! Loop has stopped briefly at a side road a short distance S of the Dalton Highway bridge over the Atigun River. Lake Benchmark Mountain, which Loopster climbed 5 days ago in rain, snow, and fog is in clear view. Too bad conditions back then weren’t like they are now. At least the American Dingo had succeeded in reaching the summit, despite climbing the wrong mountain first.

**Lake Benchmark Mountain (5,000 ft.)** (L) which Lupe had climbed 5 days ago in rain, snow, mist and fog is in clear view from a side road a little S of the Dalton Highway bridge over the Atigun River. Photo looks NNE.

10:10 AM, 32°F – Lovely day? Hah! So much for that. After a gorgeous drive S up the Atigun River valley, a snowstorm greets Loop at Atigun Pass. The snow is already sticking to the road. Probably a good thing Lupe is getting S of the pass. Wouldn’t take much of a snowstorm to make the Dalton Highway impassable here for the G6. Still more than a week to go in August, and it’s a real possibility!

Lupe arrives at **Atigun Pass** in a snowstorm. Good thing she’s on her way S of the pass before the G6 can no longer make it over.

10:52 AM, 39°F – Weather conditions are definitely better here at the Chandalar Shelf than up at Atigun Pass. However, it’s still marginal for an attempt on Table Mountain. There’s actually some blue sky around, but plenty of clouds and patches of fog are sweeping by from out of the Dietrich River valley, too. The summit of Table Mountain can sometimes be seen. Definitely considerably more new snow up there than the last time Lupe dropped by 3 days ago.

Having spent a while dithering over whether it is a good idea or not, Loop and SPHP set off across the Chandalar Shelf heading for Table Mountain (6,314 ft.).

Not even 10 miles from Atigun Pass, weather conditions are much better here at the **Chandalar Shelf**. Photo looks E.

Conditions are still marginal, however, for an attempt on **Table Mountain** (L). Clouds and fog sail by from out of the Dietrich River valley. Photo looks S.

11:26 AM, 39°F – Well, that was a total flopperoo! Already back at the G6. The wind driving clouds up out of the Dietrich River valley was just plain chilly. SPHP’s feet were soon soaking wet from marching across the Chandalar Shelf’s boggy tundra. Visibility was constantly being threatened by fog.

Table Mountain is a good long day hike. No way was Lupe going to make it to the summit under these conditions. Even if she did, who knew if the Carolina Dog would be able to see anything up there hours from now? Spending the whole day cold, wet, and miserable for such an uncertain result simply wasn’t worth it.

Too bad, though. Table Mountain always looked like a terrific, fun peak. Lupe has been by the Chandalar Shelf four times now, but conditions have never been right. This was her last chance. Oh, well. Two minutes after making it back to the G6, it starts to rain. Yeah, returning was the right decision.

SPHP promises Lupe she can go on her 2016 Last Mile North adventure again near Dillon Mountain (4,820 ft.). It’s much shorter, easier, and can be done whether the weather is decent or not. In fact, with Table Mountain now off the table, the rest of the day will be spent revisiting several of Loopster’s favorite quick stops along the Dalton Highway on the way back to Fairbanks.

12:25 PM, 48°F – The G6 is parked W of the Dalton Highway just S of the Dietrich River (S of milepost 207). Lupe is excited! The American Dingo recognizes this place. Her 2016 Last Mile North adventure is one of her very favorites. It’s an easy stroll N along the Alaska oil pipeline service road to a stream flowing W from a valley N of Dillon Mountain.

The original longer version of this adventure follows the stream all the way W to a confluence with the Dietrich River. With 207 miles yet to go on the Dalton Highway today, Loop isn’t going to go all the way to the confluence. Still, this will be a genuine treat for the Carolina Dog.

Lupe is eager to get going! She doesn’t want to waste a single minute. It’s virtually non-stop running, sniffing, chasing, and exploring the whole way.

After crossing the bridge over the **Dietrich River**, Lupe stops for a look at magnificent **Sukakpak Mountain**, one of the Dalton Highway’s best known landmarks.

Lupe climbed **Sukakpak Mountain** in 2016. It was her first big adventure in this part of the Brooks Range. Photo looks S.

After crossing the bridge over the Dietrich River, the 1.25 mile long trek N along the Alaska oil pipeline service road is pure fun. Although it’s mostly cloudy out and sometimes sprinkles rain, Loop and SPHP barely even notice. Lupe has been expending so much energy, she plops herself down in the stream NW of Dillon Mountain to cool off as soon as she gets there. She emerges soaking wet, looking like this is the greatest day of her life!

At the stream that flows W to the Dietrich River from N of **Dillon Mountain** (R). Lupe also made it to the top of **Dillon Mountain** in 2016, another grand adventure! Photo looks SE.

Happy Lupe at one of her favorite spots in the Brooks Range.

*Hey, SPHP! Why don’t you build us a cabin in the woods somewhere around here? That way we can come and do this every day!*

The return trip along the Alaska oil pipeline is no less busy and fun. Lupe crisscrosses the service road umpteen times, dashing back and forth between excursions into the forests on each side. The glorious scenery includes views of Sukakpak Mountain and Dillon Mountain where Lupe had two of her greatest adventures ever in 2016.

Looking W from the Alaska oil pipeline service road.

Busy times near the Alaska oil pipeline.

Looking SW along the pipeline service road.

All too soon, Lupe is back at the Dietrich River. Loop’s 4th time on her 2016 Last Mile North adventure is about over. Before long she’s back at the G6, saying goodbye to Dillon Mountain. (1:43 PM, 52°F)

Back at the **Dietrich River**, Lupe’s 4th time on her 2016 Last Mile North adventure is nearly over. **Sukakpak Mountain** and the Dalton Highway bridge over the river are in view. The G6 is on the R. Photo looks S.

Back at the G6. Time to say goodbye to **Dillon Mountain** (Center). Photo looks E.

Only 6 or 7 miles S of the Dietrich River, Lupe and SPHP stop briefly again. A few minutes are spent bidding farewell to Sukakpak Mountain.

Looper bids farewell to **Sukakpak Mountain**. Photo looks NE.

Coldfoot is only 25 miles S of Sukakpak. SPHP stops by the restaurant hoping for another great buffet, like the wonderful breakfast buffet enjoyed here 4 or 5 days ago. It’s too late in the day for that. An enormous “standard” burger with fries for $10.95 isn’t a bad substitute, but Loop doesn’t come away with a buffet windfall like the one SPHP brought her from the Aurora Hotel yesterday morning.

After fueling up, Lupe and SPHP keep cruising S on the Dalton Highway. (3:35 PM) Loop sees Cathedral Mountain again 6 or 7 miles S of Coldfoot, but SPHP doesn’t stop until she’s all the way to the Arctic Circle. (5:01 PM, 51°F)

Six days after crossing it going N, the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood returns to the Arctic Circle.

5:51 PM, 50°F – Lupe’s last summit along the Dalton Highway is a trivial one. She makes the short 100 yard stroll E from the highway to the big cluster of rocks on top of Finger Mountain. SPHP gives her a needed boost. Caribou Mountain is in sight off to the WNW.

Lupe back up on **Finger Mountain**, her final ascent along the Dalton Highway. Not much of a climb, but she can see **Caribou Mountain** (L) in the distance. Photo looks WNW.

Looking NNW toward the broad **Kanuti River valley** from **Finger Mountain**.

The summit of **Caribou Mountain** (L) is in view directly beyond Loop. A week ago, Lupe and SPHP had been up there. Photo looks WNW with help from the telephoto lens.

Finger Mountain is a short, but worthwhile stop. However, Loopster’s journey S along the Dalton Highway soon continues. (6:09 PM) The last major landmark is the Yukon River. (7:11 PM, 57°F) A couple of dogs down by the river want to be friends with Lupe, but she’s having none of that. Although it’s a beautiful evening, with those dogs pestering her, it’s two photos and the Carolina Dog is ready to scram. (7:26 PM)

On the N bank of the mighty **Yukon River**. Photo looks S.

The **Yukon River** looks like a placid lake on this beautiful evening. Photo looks W.

S of the Yukon River, Lupe’s 2017 adventures along the Dalton Highway are nearing their end. Loop and SPHP have had a fabulous time. The scenic miles go by one after another. Suddenly, Loop and SPHP both see something they’ve never ever seen before. A big wildcat, a lynx, is near the edge of the highway!

The lynx hesitates 4 or 5 seconds. It had intended to cross the road, but changes its mind. As the G6 approaches, the lynx turns and slinks back into the forest. Lupe is all excited, but she won’t see the lynx again.

Ten minutes later, it’s all over. In two days, Lupe has traveled all 414 miles of the Dalton Highway from Deadhorse near Prudhoe Bay back to its start near Livengood. Eight days after leaving Fairbanks to come here, Lupe stands once again at the big sign marking the S end of the Dalton Highway. (8:59 PM, 50°F)

Back at the S end of the Dalton Highway. The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood spent 8 days along the Dalton Highway in 2017, 6 of them actually N of the Arctic Circle. Fabulous times that won’t soon be forgotten.

What tremendous fun it had all been! Climbing glorious mountains, dodging rain, snow and fog, feasting and starving, seeing sights few will ever see while this remote part of the world remains wild and unspoiled, all the way to the Arctic Ocean and back.

NW of Dillon Mountain, Brooks Range, Alaska 8-23-17

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Lupe in the SCREE! – the Mountaineering Club of Alaska’s monthly newsletter & the story of Henry Pinkham