Deadhorse – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Happy Valley, Deadhorse & The Arctic Ocean Tour (8-27-22 to 8-29-22)

Part 2 of Day 29, and Days 30 & 31 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

8-27-22, 5:30 PM – Following the pilot car for miles through fog and rain, the Dalton Highway was a hideous, sloppy mess. Despite the wretched conditions, a multitude of heavy equipment was active. One huge truck after another brought giant loads of coarse gravel destined to help build up the roadbed. SPHP cringed every time one passed by in the opposite direction slinging mud and rocks.

Our poor, RAV4, SPHP! It’s only a year old, and taking a beating!

I know, Loop. Nothing I can do about it. Only supposed to be 16 miles of this nonsense. Ought to get to the end of it any day now.

Approaching Slope Mountain (4,010 ft.) a break finally appeared in the clouds. Partially draped with fog, and partly in sunshine, the mountain was more dramatic than SPHP remembered. Despite watching for the place where the G6 had been parked back in 2017 when Lupe climbed Slope Mountain, SPHP never saw it.

Back into the rain and fog, the RAV4 was well beyond Slope Mountain by the time the road construction came to an end.

8-27-22, 6:20 PM – A long, threatening growl, then pandemonium in the RAV4, as the American Dingo burst into a foaming-at-the-mouth frenzy!

Woolly cows, SPHP! Aren’t they supposed to be extinct? There’s a whole herd of them in the ditch!

Woolly cows? Those aren’t woolly cows, Loop, they’re musk oxen!

Musk oxen? You’ve mentioned them before, SPHP, but I’ve never seen any until now. Never knew what they looked like.

Well, musk oxen aren’t such a common sight, Loopster. You did see one once in Banff, but you probably don’t remember it. Anyway, I can’t believe we went all the way to Imnavait Mountain (3,702 ft.) and never saw any wildlife other than a few birds and a vole, and now here’s a dozen musk oxen right next to the Dalton Highway!

SPHP pulled the RAV4 over by the side of the highway to watch the musk oxen, but Lupe was so frantic and loud that the whole herd soon began ambling away in search of more peaceful surroundings.

Getting to see musk oxen for the first time ever, however briefly, was awesome! Once they left, though, the question soon became where to spend the night, since it was getting on toward evening.

8-27-22, Happy Valley, Dalton Highway MP 334 – The sky was heavily overcast when SPHP pulled into a giant gravel parking lot. Supposed to be room to camp here, plus access to the Sagavanirktok River. Correct on both counts! The river was dead ahead, and there was space enough for countless vehicles, although only a few were in sight.

Various small buildings, a cluster of campers, and another of old mobile homes were strung out along the perimeter of the huge lot. The largest building was bright yellow and up on blocks. A sign with a big yellow smiley face and a red arrow said “Happy Valley Camp Entrance”.

After SPHP parked the RAV4 near tall yellow bushes on the opposite side of the lot, Lupe went over to investigate. No one around.

At the enormous **Happy Valley parking lot**.

Huh. I don’t know, Looper. Kind of a strange place.

Returning to the RAV4, Lupe hopped back up onto her pink blanket. SPHP was getting ready to heat something up for dinner when a young man and a black dog came this way from somewhere over by the river.

Kyle was 23 years old, and had been manager of the Happy Valley Camp for 5 years. Earlier this year he had bought out the 99 year lease held by the former owner, who apparently wanted out after 2 disastrous years when Covid-19 had completely killed business.

Happy Valley Camp had a total of 40 rooms that Kyle rented out during the summer to oilfield professionals and truckers, plus a cook he’d hired that provided meals for them, but not to the general public. Kyle also sold aviation fuel to the airstrip operation, which he did not control. Fortunately, business was much better this year.

Already twice Lupe’s size, Otis was a black lab puppy only 3 months old with gigantic paws. Otis was ready to leap right into the RAV4, and join Lupe on her next adventure, but the Carolina Dog was decidedly cool to the notion. Otis had to settle for a Dingo stick provided by SPHP, which he seemed perfectly happy with.

Kyle said it was fine to park here overnight at no charge. He’d already shut Happy Valley Camp down for the season. He and Otis would soon be leaving for Anchorage. Winter is coming! Kyle said. Felt like it, too, at dusk in the gloom of the cold, damp fog. Still August, but summer was long gone. Already late fall here.

Kyle and Otis eventually left for the bright yellow building. SPHP heated up a can of chili, but for some reason, Lupe didn’t want any. She did have a few Ritz crackers before settling in for the night.

8-28-22, 9:33 AM, Happy Valley, Dalton Highway MP 334 –

Fog, rain, or mist! We certainly have our choice of weather here, SPHP!

So it seems, Looper. Shall we check out the Sagavanirktok River before we move on? We’ll be heading out soon.

Wandering over that way, the Sag was as gray and murky as the sky.

**Sagavanirktok River** at **Happy Valley**. Photo looks S (upstream).

Kyle had said that fishing was good on the Sagavanirktok, but Lupe didn’t see any jump. As quiet as things were with the camp closed, a stroll over to the airstrip didn’t reveal much of interest except a display with some posters about the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge.

**Arctic National Wildlife Refuge** – **Creation & Purposes**

8-28-22, 10:23 AM, Dalton Highway – Back on the road again! Devouring last night’s scorned chili with apparent relish, the American Dingo then kept a keen eye out for any more woolly cows.

Following the Sagavanirktok River N, the Dalton Highway was wet, but in good shape. A few miles N of Happy Valley, there was a 10 mile long stretch that was chip sealed, the first pavement since way back at MP 210 a little N of Dillon Mountain (4,820 ft.).

How far to Deadhorse, SPHP?

80 miles from Happy Valley, Looper. Be there by noon. Uh-oh! Dang it!

Uh-oh? What’s uh-oh, SPHP?

RAV4 got nailed by those gravel trucks in the road construction yesterday, Loop. Just noticed a crack in the lower L corner of the windshield. Shoot! Thought we’d somehow gotten lucky, and made it through that gauntlet unscathed. If I’d driven even an inch farther R, all the RAV4 would have suffered was a little chipped paint.

Oh, I see it. That’s a tiny crack, SPHP. Doesn’t hurt anything.

Yeah, fine for now, but it’ll spread. Going to need a whole new windshield at some point. Guess it’s just a risk we take coming up here, Loopster. Nothing to be done about it.

The only other time Lupe had been to Deadhorse back in 2017, the last 54 miles of the Dalton Highway had all been under construction. What a difference! Today it was all beautifully paved – striped and everything!

On the beautiful new final 54 mile section of the **Dalton Highway**. **Evil new windshield crack** (lower L).

Wow! This is awesome! Cruising in style now, Looper!

Hey, SPHP! Isn’t that a pingo way off to the L?

Oh, I bet your right, Loop! A pretty big one, too. Let’s stop real quick for a look. Haven’t seen a pingo since we were in Tuktoyaktuk!

The mighty **pingo** as seen with help from the telephoto lens.

8-28-22, 11:48 AM, 42ºF, Dalton Highway MP 414, Deadhorse – On this damp, gray day, Lupe stood at a “T” intersection with Lake Colleen in view beyond her for the first time in 5 years.

**Lake Colleen** at the **end of the Dalton Highway**.

Congratulations, Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood! You’ve made it back to the N end of the Dalton Highway!

Thank you, SPHP! Been a while, hasn’t it? To make it completely official, though, shouldn’t we go to the Prudhoe Bay General Store over by Brooks Camp?

Precisely the plan, Looper.

**Deadhorse** from the **end of the Dalton Highway**. **Lake Colleen** (L), **Aurora Hotel** (yellow building L of Center).

By the **End of the Dalton Highway** sign outside the **Prudhoe Bay General Store**.

After posing by the “Welcome to the End of the Dalton Highway” sign at the Prudhoe Bay General Store, the Carolina Dog sauntered over for a look at the nearby Crazy Horse Industrial Pad.

Checking out the **Crazy Horse Industrial Pad**.

Fueling up the RAV4 was the next priority. They were proud of their fuel at the Colville Gas Station. SPHP was just happy that there was gasoline available. Fortunately, the RAV4 wasn’t too thirsty.

What now, SPHP? Our traditional Deadhorse industrial tour?

If you can call twice a tradition already, Loop, but first, since we’re back to civilization again, how about something to eat? I’ll bring you something from the buffet at The Aurora, if you like.

Sounds good, SPHP! If they’ve got any barbecued beef ribs like at Coldfoot Camp, bring me some of those.

I’ll see what I can do, Loopster.

**Engine block heater plugins** for winter use. **8 miles from the Arctic Ocean**, Deadhorse gets a mite chilly!

8-28-22, 12:35 PM, at the Aurora Hotel in Deadhorse – The lunch buffet was only $18.00, tax included. A fabulous deal, but apparently they eat lunch early in the oil patch. The beautiful, spacious dining room was empty, and SPHP alone at the buffet.

Sadly, no barbecued beef ribs for Lupe, but there was lots of other great stuff to choose from. SPHP loaded up a big tray, then sat by one of the huge picture windows with a view of Lake Colleen.

It was all delicious! Only the fact that they began tearing the buffet down at 1:00 PM sharp kept SPHP from being a tremendous glutton.

Took long enough, SPHP! What did you bring me? Lots of scrumptious ribs, I hope!

No ribs, I’m afraid, Loop, but look at this! Got a few things I think you’ll enjoy during our Deadhorse industrial tour this afternoon.

The Carolina Dog’s eyes grew big as SPHP opened a Styrofoam doggie box full of ham, cheese, and roast beef.

8-28-22, 1:54 PM – An industrial camp serving the Prudhoe Bay oilfields near the Arctic Ocean, Deadhorse has no business district, virtually no shopping, and no private homes. Touring Deadhorse meant touring all kinds of industrial establishments offering oilfield supplies, equipment, or services, and going by the few hotels where the workers live.

The **golf course** with **2 giant golf balls**. Oilfield workers don’t play mini-golf.

Deadhorse isn’t everyone’s cup of tea. When Loopster first visited the Brooks Range in 2016, quite a few people described Alaska’s North Slope as boring, and Deadhorse as just an ugly industrial place. Not worth the time and expense to get here!

Having worked in heavy industry, SPHP felt differently. Deadhorse, and its demanding jobs in such a remote, harsh climate, seemed more like an exciting opportunity and adventure.

Lupe shared some of SPHP’s enthusiasm for the North Slope, but wasn’t all that keen on the industrial side of Deadhorse, although she willingly participated in today’s tour between tasty tidbits from The Aurora.

SPHP drove every road open to the public in Deadhorse, including the one that went all the way around Lake Colleen.

**Tanker trucks** and stacks of **industrial containers**.

For the most part, Deadhorse looked remarkably similar to how it had been during Lupe’s 2017 visit, but there were some changes. The Alaska Airlines terminal at the airport seemed to be closed. The Prudhoe Bay Hotel across the street was closed, too.

Nothing going on at the **Alaska Airlines terminal**.

A note on the **Prudhoe Bay hotel** door dated 7-1-21 said it was temporarily closed.

These days, all the action at the airport seemed to be originating over at the Deadhorse Aviation Center down the street from the Alaska Airlines terminal, but SPHP didn’t go inside to find out if that was really the case.

There aren’t that many streets in Deadhorse. Even at a leisurely pace, Lupe’s industrial tour took only a little over an hour.

8-28-22, 3:04 PM, Deadhorse –

Happy, SPHP? Is the industrial tour over?

Yes. Enjoyed seeing it all again, Loopster. Thanks for being a good sport!

Great! Can we get to the fun stuff then, and visit the Sagavanirktok River?

Pretty soon. I want to check on tours available at Deadhorse Camp, first.

You already did the Arctic Ocean tour as my personal representative in 2017, SPHP.

Yeah, I know, but I’d like to see what else they might have to offer.

The Sagivanirktok River was right along the Dalton Highway on the way into Deadhorse. Deadhorse Camp was, too. One of the first buildings on the L entering Deadhorse, it used to be a sickly yellow, but was now sporting brand new dark red siding.

At **Deadhorse Camp**, **home of the Arctic Ocean Tour**.

8-28-22, 3:17 PM, Deadhorse Camp – Took SPHP a few minutes to realize that the entrance stairway had been switched to the opposite end of the building since Lupe had last been here. The American Dingo waited in the RAV4 while SPHP went inside.

So what did they say, SPHP? Did you sign up for a tour?

The only tour they can book here in Deadhorse is the same Arctic Ocean tour I went on in 2017.

Oh, too bad, SPHP! Can we go to the Sagavanirktok River now?

Sure, for a while, Loop. Have to report back here between 5:00 and 6:00 PM. They should have an answer back by then on whether I pass muster on the security check they’re running on me.

What? You’re taking the Arctic Ocean tour again, SPHP?

Yup! Why not? How often are we ever going to be this close to the Arctic Ocean, anyway? The price is still only $69.00! Hasn’t changed since 2017, so a super bargain. Besides, I’ve got unfinished business with this tour.

What kind of unfinished business, SPHP?

Last time it never even occurred to me that I could go swimming in the Arctic Ocean. We were already there when I realized what the stack of white towels that were in the bus were for. I wasn’t prepared, and had to settle for just wading in the ocean. This time, I’m going to swim in the Arctic Ocean, Looper!

And I suppose I still get left out, aye, SPHP? Still no Dingoes allowed on the tour?

Afraid so, Loopster. Back to being your personal representative again. I did ask, and told them you wouldn’t be any trouble at all, but they said no.

8-28-22, 4:00 PM – The mood at the Sagavanirktok River was completely different from what it had been in 2017. Back then there’d been a little sunshine, the sky only partly cloudy. A small crowd was present. People in wet suits had been tubing down the river, and some optimistic soul had spent a frustrating hour trying to fly a green kite despite an almost non-existent breeze. The atmosphere had been rather festive.

Except for a lone pickup truck with a green camper, no one was around today. Although no longer raining or misting, the sky was completely overcast.

Today’s burgeoning crowd at the **Sagavanirktok**. **Green camper** (L).

Lupe still spent a wonderful late afternoon along the Sagivanirktok River. Some sort of unseen marmots or Arctic prairie dogs were living in holes in the tundra. One in particular inhabited a 40 foot long steel pipe that had a 3rd hole in it 10 feet from the river end.

Perfectly safe in its steel fortress, the marmot squeaked enticingly from within, as Lupe frantically tried to dig out the entire pipe, doomed to failure from the start. None of that mattered to the determined Dingo. Although SPHP managed to divert her attention with walks along the river, Lupe always insisted on returning to her pipeline excavation.

Happily occupied along the **Sagavanirktok River**.

Upstream the river was well contained by a steep bank where occasional piers of rock extended partway out into the main channel. Downstream, there was more opportunity to explore the water’s edge. At this time of year, the Sag was low with lots of exposed river bottom to sniff.

Heading off to explore the downstream region.

**Deadhorse** from the **Sagavanirktok River**.

8-28-22, 4:47 PM – A group of ptarmigans were in the parking lot when SPHP parked the RAV4 at Deadhorse Camp again. Despite arriving a bit earlier than told to, they already had an answer back. Once again, the United States was willing to take a chance on letting SPHP ride the Arctic Ocean tour bus. Dingoes were still too big a threat to national security.

**Ptarmigans** at the Deadhorse Camp parking lot.

Probably think you’re an Australian spy, Looper.

Not buying that I’m an American Dingo, aye? You should have told them that I was a Carolina Dog, SPHP!

In any case, the die was cast. SPHP was booked on the tour leaving at 8:30 AM tomorrow morning. After leaving Deadhorse Camp, Lupe got to spend the rest of the evening along the Sagavanirktok River. Even the green camper was long gone.

8-29-22, the wee hours, Sagavanirktok River – 41ºF, but the night seemed cold, raw, and damp. The lights of Deadhorse were beautiful in the fog. SPHP couldn’t sleep with the impending test of sanity and self-discipline only hours away. Swim in the Arctic Ocean? Inconceivable! The shame of chickening out wasn’t exactly a grand prospect, either. Under cover of darkness, SPHP changed into a bathing suit before bundling up again.

8-29-22, 5:18 AM, Sagavanirktok River – Starting to get light out. Lupe wanted out of the RAV4 to sniff the morning air. Still foggy. During the short drive to The Aurora a few minutes later, she had some Taste of the Wild from her silver bowl.

The breakfast buffet was going great guns at this hour. SPHP enjoyed a very hearty meal. Still only $15.00. Same price as in 2017. What a steal!

Bring me anything, SPHP?

You know I did, Loopster! You can munch on it while we take a last spin around Lake Colleen.

Bacon and sausage patties! Another fantastic tour of Lake Colleen!

Back at the Sagavanirktok River, there was no sky, only fog, but Lupe could see the river. A bird that looked part duck, part loon was floating by. This bird had a disturbingly strange cry like a cat in distress – mew, mew, mew! Other ducks responded, paddling over to it, but the catbird wasn’t actually hurt. Another bird of the same type with the same cry soon flew off in apparently perfect health.

8-29-22, 7:34 AM, Deadhorse Camp, 40ºF – Tyler, a young man, verified that SPHP was on the Arctic Ocean tour list, then accepted the required $69.00, which SPHP paid in cash. Molly, who also worked here, said she wanted to meet Lupe when the tour was over. She missed her dog.

Tyler turned out to be the tour guide and shuttle bus driver. After a short wait while others arrived, everyone boarded the bus. Lupe, of course, had to stay in the RAV4. 7 people were on the tour, including SPHP. A lively group, they made it fun, peppering Tyler with questions during the drive through the oilfields.

To SPHP, the most interesting comment Tyler made was that the Alaska oil pipeline now only carries about 300,000 barrels of oil per day, an 85% decrease from its heyday when 2,000,000 barrels was normal.

8-29-22, 8:47 AM, Arctic Ocean at Prudhoe Bay – Although visibly eroded, the spit of gravelly land next to where Tyler parked the shuttle bus was instantly recognized by SPHP. This was the exact same place where the 2017 Arctic Ocean tour had wound up.

Tyler referred to this spit as a “dock” that had been built on barrels still rusting away at its far end.

**Arctic Ocean** from the end of the “dock”.

The moment of truth was at paw! Proceeding without hesitation, SPHP was not alone stripping down to a swimsuit.

Can’t think about this, or it will never happen! SPHP was first, leading the way into the Arctic Ocean. The ocean was shallow. It was quite a trek out to where it was finally mid-thigh.

C’ya all! I’m swimming to Russia!

Plunging in, SPHP completely submerged, getting a taste of salt water in the process. The swim to Russia had scarcely begun, when SPHP shot out of the water with one great whoop, then proceeded to wade back into shore, clutching a souvenier rock torn from the ocean floor. The rock was a perfectly ordinary, rounded, greenish stone, but it would do. SPHP hadn’t the slightest intention of seeking out a better one.

At least 2 other tour members also swam, however briefly, in the Arctic Ocean. All but one at least waded in a ways. Everyone was laughing and talking about how great it was! A couple from Colombia hugged with joy at having made it all this way. It really was a great moment, a landmark in time. SPHP’s only regret was that Lupe wasn’t there, too.

Fellow tour members still cavorting in **Prudhoe Bay**.

Tyler passed out white towels from a cardboard box. Took a little while before everyone was dried off and adequately layered up again.

Tour guide, **Tyler**, appropriately dressed on the R, as the tour winds down.

The **shuttle bus** (R of Center) from the end of the spit.

Last glance at the **Arctic Ocean** before departing.

On the way back to Deadhorse Camp, a red fox was spotted roaming the oil patch. There’d been foxes during the 2017 Arctic Ocean tour, too.

Upon reaching Deadhorse Camp, Tyler passed out an “Arctic Polar Bear Club Certificate of Membership for braving the icy waters of the Arctic Ocean at Prudhoe Bay, Alaska!” to everyone on the tour who had dared stick a toe in the water. Dated August 29, 2022, it was personally signed by Tyler making it all official.

Molly came out to meet and pet Lupe at the RAV4, too. Lupe was happy with all the attention Molly gave her, and joined SPHP during good-byes and bon voyages with fellow tour members.

So, how did it go, SPHP? Glad you’re here, but I wasn’t expecting you back quite this soon. What was Russia like?

Experienced a sudden change of heart about swimming to Russia shortly after plunging in, Loop. Never actually got there.

Well, as my personal representative, you did at least go swimming in the Arctic Ocean for me, didn’t you?

Oh, yes! Yes, I did, Loopster! For quite a few nanoseconds. A good dozen or more, I’d say.

That isn’t very long is it, SPHP? I can hardly go around boasting that the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood’s personal representative swam in the Arctic Ocean for 12 nanoseconds, can I?

I suppose not, Loop, but that’s a good thing!

Oh, really? In what way, SPHP?

Now we’ve got a reason to come back to Deadhorse again! Next time I can work on my Arctic Ocean swimming endurance for you. Pretty sure I can shatter today’s record.

8-29-22, 10:34 AM, Sagavanirktok River – SPHP had another walk along the Sag in mind, but didn’t get far. Lupe had other ideas, preferring to stick her nose down Arctic prairie dog holes instead. That was OK, it was her turn for fun. SPHP enjoyed watching her enthusiasm, and admiring the mighty Sag, as gray as the sky.

8-29-22, 11:42 AM, 43ºF – 24 hours after arriving, still in a gray fog, Lupe left Deadhorse on the beautiful 54 mile long new stretch of the Dalton Highway. Before departure there’d been one more visit to the Prudhoe Bay General Store near Brooks Camp so SPHP could buy a few souvenirs in addition to the green rock plucked from the Arctic Ocean for Lupe’s rock collection.

The fog lifted. Vast regions of golden tundra were in view. Although many adventures were still ahead, there was a sadness to heading S again. SPHP couldn’t shake the feeling that an epic journey had reached its climax back along the foggy Sagavanirktok River in Deadhorse.

The sadness only got worse when Lupe spotted a lone caribou. Soon 8 were seen on a hillside, but bow hunters in camouflage appeared ready to slaughter them. Terrible!

Passing Happy Valley, it’s bright yellow headquarters could be seen from the highway, and it did seem a more cheerful place. No doubt Kyle and Otis were still there for a few more days, busy winterizing the facilities.

Another herd of musk oxen was a special treat. Grazing quite a long way from the highway over by the Sagavanirktok River, they were too far off to inspire the same frenzied reaction from the Carolina Dog that the ones in the ditch had 2 days ago.

SPHP was disappointed when both Slope Mountain (4,010 ft.) and Imnavait Mountain (3,702 ft.) turned out to be hidden by clouds. Only their lower slopes were in view.

Approaching Galbraith Lake near the N edge of the Brooks Range, the Dalton Highway was dry for the first time in days. A fair amount of blue sky was around, too.

Galbraith Lake seems to be the only dry spot in the entire Brooks Range and North Slope! Want to stay at the campground again, Loop?

8-29-22, 4:15 PM, Galbraith Lake Campground, Dalton Highway MP 275 – The American Dingo was all for that idea! And why not? It was already a favorite spot. Lupe spent much of the evening having a blast exploring the tundra W of the campground.

Investigating beneath boulders W of Galbraith Lake campground. Photo looks E.

Lupe had been here 4 nights ago. SPHP noticed a certain chill in the air, and that the fall colors were no longer quite as brilliant as they had been so recently. Yet if this weather would hold, the American Dingo was in for another incredible Brooks Range adventure tomorrow.

Unfortunately, after wandering until distant lights were visible over by the Galbraith airstrip and on the Dalton Highway, this peaceful evening out on the tundra ended with the mountains all hidden by clouds and fog moving in. A sad thought – maybe this was it for the Brooks Range, after all? (11:15 PM)

Happy times along the **Sagavanirktok River**, Deadhorse, Alaska 8-29-22

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

Deadhorse, Alaska – The Arctic Ocean Tour & Sagavanirktok River Walk (8-21-17)

Arctic Ocean Shuttle Tour from Deadhorse Camp

BLM Dalton Highway Visitor Guide

Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacations to Wyoming, Canada & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Slope Mountain & Highlights of the Dalton Highway Revisited, Alaska (8-22-17 & 8-23-17)

Days 23 & 24 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

8-22-17, 1:00 AM, near the Sagavanirktok River, Deadhorse, Alaska – SPHP woke up thinking it might be possible for Lupe to see the Northern Lights. Only 2 hours ago, the evening sky had been mostly clear. Dream on. Not now. Foggy, again. Maybe later?

No. A thick fog prevailed every time SPHP checked. Northern Lights? Not happening.

4:14 AM – Still no change. Time to get going anyway. The Aurora Hotel in Deadhorse would be serving breakfast 4:30 AM to 7:30 AM. SPHP didn’t want to miss out on that. May as well beat the crowd and arrive early! Lunch there yesterday had been fabulous.

4:37 AM, 39°F – Beat the crowd? Ridiculous! So naive, it’s funny! The Aurora’s parking lot is already jammed with white pickup trucks. Deadhorse is wide awake and bustling with activity. Oilfield workers are getting breakfast in preparation for the long work day ahead. SPHP finds a spot to squeeze the G6 into. Loopster will have to wait here, but SPHP promises to save her something good from breakfast.

The breakfast buffet is simply awesome! All you can eat for $12.00, tax included. The lady SPHP pays is named Terry. Terry says to feel free when leaving to use one of the paper bags or Styrofoam boxes to take enough extra food for a mid-morning snack later on. Oh, yeah! This is Loopster’s lucky day.

The buffet has pancakes, eggs, muffins, toast, waffles, potatoes, sausages, ham, bacon, fresh fruits, cottage cheese, tea, coffee, fruit juices, soft drinks and so much more. You name it, the Aurora’s got it. Whatever you want, as much as you like. The huge dining room is 80% full with oilfield workers packing it away. They are talking, laughing, and watching the morning news on big flat screen monitors mounted around the room. SPHP sits near one of the huge windows with a view of Lake Colleen, watching ducks and geese in the early morning gloom.

None of the other tourists Lupe and SPHP had met along the Dalton Highway had anything good to say about Deadhorse. Industrial. Ugly. Flat. Boring. Nothing to do. Only a dull, drab turnaround spot for those who bothered going all the way to the end of the Dalton Highway.

Maybe Lupe agreed with them? She hadn’t been able to go on the Arctic Ocean tour with SPHP yesterday, although she’d enjoyed a couple of nice walks along the beautiful Sagavanirktok River.

SPHP didn’t feel that way about Deadhorse at all. Industrial? Yes. Kind of ugly? Yes. Yet it was awesome being way up here near the Arctic Ocean on the N edge of North America. It would be fun to work up here and experience all the radically changing seasons of a long Arctic year, see whatever exotic wildlife might appear, and be part of a crew working long hours to keep the oilfield producing despite tough conditions.

It was exciting just watching the camaraderie of everyone getting ready to go to work in a very special environment. Of course, maybe SPHP is just plain nuts.

Oh, Loop! You lucky, Dingo!

Hmm? What do you mean, SPHP? What are you talking about?

You have just hit the jackpot Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood!

I have? How?

Take a look at this! Fresh bacon, sausages, and ham from the Aurora Hotel! No smuggling a few tidbits to you this time around. They said it was alright. They expected and even encouraged me to take it!

Lupe’s eyes sparkled! Why, it was a box full of delicious, delectable treasures! She wasn’t just dreaming either. It was all real. She was rich!

I can’t believe it! All this for me? Can I have some now?

Go right ahead, Loop. Help yourself. Chow down while I find the gas station and fill up the G6. We’ll be on our way out of Deadhorse soon.

What’s the rush? Maybe we should stick around and make this a tradition? Mmmm. Oh my, this is scrumptious! Thanks so much, SPHP!

After fueling up the G6, SPHP wrote up the second postcard that Lupe was sending to her Grandma from Deadhorse, the one with a picture of a sunset over Prudhoe Bay. Then it was back to the Aurora Hotel real quick like to mail it. It was light out now. The fog was beginning to thin as Lupe and SPHP drove past Deadhorse Camp for the last time, starting the long journey S on the Dalton Highway. (6:24 AM, 38°F)

6:58 AM, 34°F – Ten miles out of Deadhorse, the fog dissipates rapidly. It was only a ground fog. The Carolina Dog soon has views of morning sunlight on the flat tundra. Mist rises from ponds and streams.

Lupe 15 miles out of Deadhorse on what is rapidly becoming a beautiful morning on Alaska’s North Slope.

8:38 AM, 47°F on the Dalton Highway – Woke up too many times last night. After following a pilot car for 14 miles, SPHP is already sleepy. A few miles farther, and Lupe is on a big hill near the place where she’d seen a faint rainbow on the way to Deadhorse a couple of days ago. There’s a pullout by the road. SPHP parks behind a couple of semi trucks. Nap time despite the early hour!

10:19 AM – Awake and feeling much better. Lupe is on her way again. Pretty day. Stop now and then for photos of the Sagavanirktok River. The Brooks Range is in view far beyond the river, but Loop is getting closer to it as she continues S.

Lupe along the Dalton Highway with the **Sagavanirktok River** and the **Brooks Range** in sight beyond her. Photo looks SE.

**Sagavanirktok River** from the Dalton Highway. Photo looks NE.

The **Sagavanirktok River** flows N out of the **Brooks Range** all the way to the Arctic Ocean near Deadhorse and Prudhoe Bay. Photo looks SE.

Foothills of the **Brooks Range** from an unnamed pond along the **Dalton Highway**. Photo looks S.

11:37 AM, 57°F – On the way N to Deadhorse 2 days ago, Lupe had seen a lone mountain among clouds and mist not terribly far from the W side of the Dalton Highway. Although there were lots more mountains off to the E, none of them were accessible, because Lupe would have had to ford the Sagavanirktok River to get to them. However, that one lone mountain to the W had looked like access might not be an issue. This mountain has been in view now for the past half hour. Loop will soon be drawing near it again.

12:03 PM – Parked at the start of an Alaska oil pipeline access road just W of the Dalton Highway. On the other side of the highway, a different side road heads E. A street sign says “Slope Mountain Camp 1”. The lone mountain W of the Dalton Highway must be Slope Mountain (4,010 ft.)! Even though it’s still a few miles off to the SW, it’s the only notable peak anywhere in this vicinity.

After a couple of days spent mostly in the G6, Lupe is ready for action! It would be great fun to climb a mountain way out here on Alaska’s North Slope, and Slope Mountain is the best candidate she’s seen. It’s not clear if she will have to ford any streams to get to the mountain, but it’s worth a reconnaissance trip to check it out. If Looper can get to the base of Slope Mountain, success seems assured. It looks like an easy climb.

The first part of the trek is a cinch. Lupe and SPHP follow the access road leading to the Alaska oil pipeline, then follow the service road near the pipeline SW. The plan is to get as close as possible to a large saddle between Slope Mountain and a lower hill to the NE before leaving the service road to strike out for the saddle.

Lupe near the red gate at the start of the access road leading to the Alaska oil pipeline. She will follow a service road near the pipeline SW (L) before striking out for the big saddle seen beyond her in the distance. Photo looks W.

As Lupe follows the pipeline, it becomes apparent that there is almost certainly a stream between here and Slope Mountain. No stream is in view, but a telltale line of tall bushes 0.25 mile away runs along the lowest part of a large drainage area. The only way to find out how big the stream might be is to march right on down there.

Away from the service road, the tundra becomes increasingly boggy and full of tussocks as Loop makes her way down a long slope. Upon reaching the bushes, she has to cross a couple of gullies which must represent old, abandoned stream channels. Lupe forces a way through a thick stand of bushes, and arrives on the bank of a small river.

After forcing a way through the bushes, Lupe arrives at a small river. Photo looks W.

The stream is deepest near the opposite bank, and appears to be at least knee deep on SPHP. Bushes crowding the far shore look like they might make getting out of the stream a bit of a pain, and the current is fairly strong. Yes, the river looks fordable, but SPHP isn’t eager to take it on. Lupe will have to swim, and it isn’t clear where she can get out on the other side.

Lupe and SPHP stand there, pondering the situation. Things don’t look much different either upstream or downstream. Hmm. So close, yet so far! The stream isn’t dangerous, but not wanting to get soaking wet, SPHP finally decides it isn’t worth risking slipping and falling in, which might easily happen. The river is just a little too deep, and the current a little too strong.

Sigh. Lupe and SPHP turn and head back to the Alaska oil pipeline service road. The return trip is a fun hike, and the Carolina Dog has a blast sniffing and exploring all along the way.

Once back at the G6 (2:03 PM), SPHP continues driving S on the Dalton Highway. Even though Looper’s initial reconnaissance hasn’t produced the desired result, perhaps there is an alternative? Maybe a route to Slope Mountain exists which avoids the river, or at least crosses it at a more favorable point?

Not until Lupe is S of Slope Mountain does SPHP find what looks like the most promising approach. Shortly after the Dalton Highway crosses the small river (signed Oskyruk… something or other) that blocked Lupe’s first attempt, SPHP parks the G6 at a small pullout near the top of a rise. This pullout is 100 feet S of milepost 297 on the E side of the road.

Across the highway, a long golden slope beyond the Alaska oil pipeline leads toward the mountain. No major drainages can be seen between here and Slope Mountain’s summit. The summit is once again miles away, and Loop faces a long trek to a big ramp leading up to the top of the mountain. Nevertheless, the American Dingo shouldn’t have any problem getting there from here!

Lupe ready for another attempt on **Slope Mountain**. The summit is on the L. Photo looks NNE.

This time (2:33 PM, 57°F), the Carolina Dog follows the Alaska oil pipeline service road a mile NE until it starts to lose elevation. She then leaves the road, turning N to begin a long, steady trek up the golden slope leading to Slope Mountain.

Unsurprisingly, much of the tundra is spongy and wet. Tussocks slow SPHP’s progress, and make the gentle climb far more energy draining than it would be on firmer terrain. Wide bands of greener vegetation mark the course of numerous little streams seeping and trickling down the long slope.

Loop and SPHP plod on and on, aiming for the lower end of a big golden ramp, an obvious route leading almost all the way to the top of Slope Mountain. This is such a remote area, SPHP has high hopes Lupe will see some animals up here, but none ever appear. SPHP does scare up a flight of 5 or 6 birds, which excites the American Dingo! For a while, she dashes around in wide circles searching for more, but doesn’t come across any.

Nothing really changes until Loop reaches the base of a fairly steep rocky hillside. An easy scramble brings Loop up onto the big ramp she has been aiming for all this time. Part of the ramp is strewn with loose rock, and the rest consists of still more spongy, damp tundra.

After a miles long march across a tussocky slope and a short scramble up a hillside of rock, Lupe arrives on the big ramp she will follow almost all the way to the top of **Slope Mountain**. Photo looks NE.

The rocky parts of the ramp are easier traveling than the soggy tundra. For quite a long way, Lupe sticks to the rocky SE edge of the ramp where the views are best. When the rocks eventually give out, she crosses the tundra to reach the base of the higher ridge to the NW.

Along the SE edge of the big ramp. Loop eventually went over to the base of the highest ridge seen on the L, and continued up the ramp over there. She didn’t climb up onto the highest ridge until she was nearly to the top of the mountain. Photo looks NE.

Lupe and SPHP follow the base of the higher ridge, staying close to the area where the rocks and tundra meet. Many rocks have broken into relatively thin flat layers. In some places, they form a sort of natural flagstone pathway.

Back down on the long slope leading to Slope Mountain, Lupe had stuck pretty close to SPHP most of the time. Up on the big ramp, though, Looper takes off running and exploring. She runs far ahead of SPHP, and spends her time investigating whatever her super sensitive Dingo nose tells her might be interesting. Apparently, she finds actually being up on Slope Mountain more to her liking.

Loop hasn’t quite reached the end of the big ramp when SPHP figures maybe it’s time to climb up onto the higher ridge. This involves another easy scramble, and doesn’t take long. Upon reaching the top, a large tower is in sight only 200 yards off to the N. The tower stands at the summit of Slope Mountain (4,010 ft.).

Almost there! Lupe discovers this big tower at the summit of **Slope Mountain**. Photo looks N.

Although climbing **Slope Mountain** wasn’t at all difficult, SPHP told Lupe it was still one of her greatest accomplishments. After all, **Slope Mountain** is farther N than any other mountain she has ever climbed. Surely, few Dingoes have ever been on a mountain N of the Brooks Range in Alaska! Photo looks N.

Mechanical noises are coming from a couple of sheds near the tower. The summit area is 5 to 10 acres in size, flat to gently sloping, and covered with small rocks and sparse vegetation. To the N and E, a lip of the mountain drops off rather sharply, but the resulting cliffs aren’t all that high. Passing by the tower, Lupe sees two cairns ahead.

By far the largest cairn is a tower of flat stones near the N edge of the summit area. Someone had put an awful lot of work into creating it.

Lupe by the largest of two cairns on **Slope Mountain**. Someone had put an awful lot of work into building this one! Photo looks E.

Lupe had tremendous views of Alaska’s North Slope from up on **Slope Mountain**. The **Sagavanirktok River** is seen in the distance. Photo looks NE.

More than 50 feet to the W, a faded orange wind sock flies above a much smaller cairn. This cairn is decorated with antlers.

Lupe checks the wind direction indicated by the faded orange wind sock at the top of the smaller cairn. She didn’t really need the wind sock, though, to tell that a chilly breeze was now blowing out of the S. Photo looks NW.

Although it had been sunny and comfortably warm when Lupe struck out for Slope Mountain, a chilly S breeze is blowing now. The sky has clouded over to a considerable degree, and is rather dark to the S where a line of showers can be seen N of the Brooks Range. SPHP forgot the rain poncho back at the G6, so a cold rain is nothing to look forward to.

Unfortunately, with the weather deteriorating, Lupe isn’t going to be able to stay up on top of Slope Mountain very long. About 15 minutes is all the Carolina Dog is going to get before it will be time to vamoose. That is a shame. The views of Alaska’s North Slope are fantastic!

Off to the W is a 6 mile long row of big rounded hills featuring sweeping curves. These hills are roughly 400 feet lower than Slope Mountain. Lupe can see the top of slightly higher Imnavait Mountain (3,702 ft.) 10 miles away beyond them.

**Imnavait Mountain** (Center) appears a few miles beyond a line of big rounded hills W of **Slope Mountain**. Photo looks WNW.

To the N, dark beneath a purple gray sky, Alaska’s flat, featureless North Slope stretches away to a dim horizon. The Sagavanirktok River, which Lupe has come to know over the past couple of days, can still be seen many miles away to the NE. Both the Alaska oil pipeline and Dalton Highway are visible closer by in this direction, too.

The best views, however, are of Alaska’s mighty Brooks Range running 180° from the NE to the E and S all the way around to the SW. Lupe sees many fabulous snow capped peaks, but SPHP doesn’t know the names of any of them.

The **Accomplishment Creek** valley (Center). Photo looks SE toward the **Brooks Range**.

Lupe could see many impressive snowy peaks of the **Brooks Range**. Photo looks SSE.

SPHP is very glad Lupe has made it to the top of Slope Mountain, but it is disappointing to have to depart so soon. Yet it’s the prudent thing to do. Loopster stands sniffing the breeze for a final few moments, while SPHP gazes in wonder upon the glorious views from the mountain farthest N of all the peaks Lupe has ever climbed.

Even concentrating with my eyes closed, I can’t detect a thing, SPHP. I was hoping to sniff out some more ham, bacon and sausages from the Aurora Hotel. I wish you would have brought some in your pocket!

As Looper and SPHP leave Slope Mountain’s summit, electronic noises similar to animal calls begin being emitted from somewhere over by the big tower. Very strange indeed, but no animals appear in response to the tower’s pleas. The noises are soon left behind. Lupe follows the big ramp back down to about where she first reached it on her way up the mountain.

From here, the Carolina Dog takes a more direct route down to the Alaska oil pipeline. This saves time, but it’s still a long way, and results in a longer, but easier march back on the service road to the G6. Thankfully, the rain showers never do catch up with Lupe, having drifted off in another direction. (8:40 PM, 51°F)

The evening is spent some miles farther S at a very large pullout along the E side of the Dalton Highway where a semi truck sits idling. The pullout is on a high spot from which Lupe can still see Slope Mountain as dusk creeps over the land. (9:40 PM)

8-23-17, 6:25 AM, 38°F at a pullout along the Dalton Highway within sight of Slope Mountain, Toolik Lake, and the N side of the Brooks Range – That semi truck idled for hours here last night, but finally quit. A hard rain then fell for a while, but it’s not raining now. For once it isn’t foggy out. The morning sky is mostly cloudy, but these clouds are high and non-threatening. Small patches of blue sky mean there’s still hope Lupe stands a chance of climbing Table Mountain (6,314 ft.) today, her last peakbagging goal along the Dalton Highway.

While the morning sky wasn’t super encouraging, there was still hope Lupe would be able to climb Table Mountain today, her last 2017 peakbagging goal along the Dalton Highway. Photo looks SE toward the **Brooks Range**.

7:30 AM, 38°F – After driving S a little way just to warm up, SPHP parks the G6 again at the side road near milepost 278 where Lupe has twice gone on her short Stroll to the North Slope Knoll adventures. Loop and SPHP share a breakfast of soup, while enjoying views of the North Slope and the N side of the Brooks Range for the last time.

9:18 AM, 44°F – It’s a lovely day! Loop has stopped briefly at a side road a short distance S of the Dalton Highway bridge over the Atigun River. Lake Benchmark Mountain, which Loopster climbed 5 days ago in rain, snow, and fog is in clear view. Too bad conditions back then weren’t like they are now. At least the American Dingo had succeeded in reaching the summit, despite climbing the wrong mountain first.

**Lake Benchmark Mountain (5,000 ft.)** (L) which Lupe had climbed 5 days ago in rain, snow, mist and fog is in clear view from a side road a little S of the Dalton Highway bridge over the Atigun River. Photo looks NNE.

10:10 AM, 32°F – Lovely day? Hah! So much for that. After a gorgeous drive S up the Atigun River valley, a snowstorm greets Loop at Atigun Pass. The snow is already sticking to the road. Probably a good thing Lupe is getting S of the pass. Wouldn’t take much of a snowstorm to make the Dalton Highway impassable here for the G6. Still more than a week to go in August, and it’s a real possibility!

Lupe arrives at **Atigun Pass** in a snowstorm. Good thing she’s on her way S of the pass before the G6 can no longer make it over.

10:52 AM, 39°F – Weather conditions are definitely better here at the Chandalar Shelf than up at Atigun Pass. However, it’s still marginal for an attempt on Table Mountain. There’s actually some blue sky around, but plenty of clouds and patches of fog are sweeping by from out of the Dietrich River valley, too. The summit of Table Mountain can sometimes be seen. Definitely considerably more new snow up there than the last time Lupe dropped by 3 days ago.

Having spent a while dithering over whether it is a good idea or not, Loop and SPHP set off across the Chandalar Shelf heading for Table Mountain (6,314 ft.).

Not even 10 miles from Atigun Pass, weather conditions are much better here at the **Chandalar Shelf**. Photo looks E.

Conditions are still marginal, however, for an attempt on **Table Mountain** (L). Clouds and fog sail by from out of the Dietrich River valley. Photo looks S.

11:26 AM, 39°F – Well, that was a total flopperoo! Already back at the G6. The wind driving clouds up out of the Dietrich River valley was just plain chilly. SPHP’s feet were soon soaking wet from marching across the Chandalar Shelf’s boggy tundra. Visibility was constantly being threatened by fog.

Table Mountain is a good long day hike. No way was Lupe going to make it to the summit under these conditions. Even if she did, who knew if the Carolina Dog would be able to see anything up there hours from now? Spending the whole day cold, wet, and miserable for such an uncertain result simply wasn’t worth it.

Too bad, though. Table Mountain always looked like a terrific, fun peak. Lupe has been by the Chandalar Shelf four times now, but conditions have never been right. This was her last chance. Oh, well. Two minutes after making it back to the G6, it starts to rain. Yeah, returning was the right decision.

SPHP promises Lupe she can go on her 2016 Last Mile North adventure again near Dillon Mountain (4,820 ft.). It’s much shorter, easier, and can be done whether the weather is decent or not. In fact, with Table Mountain now off the table, the rest of the day will be spent revisiting several of Loopster’s favorite quick stops along the Dalton Highway on the way back to Fairbanks.

12:25 PM, 48°F – The G6 is parked W of the Dalton Highway just S of the Dietrich River (S of milepost 207). Lupe is excited! The American Dingo recognizes this place. Her 2016 Last Mile North adventure is one of her very favorites. It’s an easy stroll N along the Alaska oil pipeline service road to a stream flowing W from a valley N of Dillon Mountain.

The original longer version of this adventure follows the stream all the way W to a confluence with the Dietrich River. With 207 miles yet to go on the Dalton Highway today, Loop isn’t going to go all the way to the confluence. Still, this will be a genuine treat for the Carolina Dog.

Lupe is eager to get going! She doesn’t want to waste a single minute. It’s virtually non-stop running, sniffing, chasing, and exploring the whole way.

After crossing the bridge over the **Dietrich River**, Lupe stops for a look at magnificent **Sukakpak Mountain**, one of the Dalton Highway’s best known landmarks.

Lupe climbed **Sukakpak Mountain** in 2016. It was her first big adventure in this part of the Brooks Range. Photo looks S.

After crossing the bridge over the Dietrich River, the 1.25 mile long trek N along the Alaska oil pipeline service road is pure fun. Although it’s mostly cloudy out and sometimes sprinkles rain, Loop and SPHP barely even notice. Lupe has been expending so much energy, she plops herself down in the stream NW of Dillon Mountain to cool off as soon as she gets there. She emerges soaking wet, looking like this is the greatest day of her life!

At the stream that flows W to the Dietrich River from N of **Dillon Mountain** (R). Lupe also made it to the top of **Dillon Mountain** in 2016, another grand adventure! Photo looks SE.

Happy Lupe at one of her favorite spots in the Brooks Range.

*Hey, SPHP! Why don’t you build us a cabin in the woods somewhere around here? That way we can come and do this every day!*

The return trip along the Alaska oil pipeline is no less busy and fun. Lupe crisscrosses the service road umpteen times, dashing back and forth between excursions into the forests on each side. The glorious scenery includes views of Sukakpak Mountain and Dillon Mountain where Lupe had two of her greatest adventures ever in 2016.

Looking W from the Alaska oil pipeline service road.

Busy times near the Alaska oil pipeline.

Looking SW along the pipeline service road.

All too soon, Lupe is back at the Dietrich River. Loop’s 4th time on her 2016 Last Mile North adventure is about over. Before long she’s back at the G6, saying goodbye to Dillon Mountain. (1:43 PM, 52°F)

Back at the **Dietrich River**, Lupe’s 4th time on her 2016 Last Mile North adventure is nearly over. **Sukakpak Mountain** and the Dalton Highway bridge over the river are in view. The G6 is on the R. Photo looks S.

Back at the G6. Time to say goodbye to **Dillon Mountain** (Center). Photo looks E.

Only 6 or 7 miles S of the Dietrich River, Lupe and SPHP stop briefly again. A few minutes are spent bidding farewell to Sukakpak Mountain.

Looper bids farewell to **Sukakpak Mountain**. Photo looks NE.

Coldfoot is only 25 miles S of Sukakpak. SPHP stops by the restaurant hoping for another great buffet, like the wonderful breakfast buffet enjoyed here 4 or 5 days ago. It’s too late in the day for that. An enormous “standard” burger with fries for $10.95 isn’t a bad substitute, but Loop doesn’t come away with a buffet windfall like the one SPHP brought her from the Aurora Hotel yesterday morning.

After fueling up, Lupe and SPHP keep cruising S on the Dalton Highway. (3:35 PM) Loop sees Cathedral Mountain again 6 or 7 miles S of Coldfoot, but SPHP doesn’t stop until she’s all the way to the Arctic Circle. (5:01 PM, 51°F)

Six days after crossing it going N, the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood returns to the Arctic Circle.

5:51 PM, 50°F – Lupe’s last summit along the Dalton Highway is a trivial one. She makes the short 100 yard stroll E from the highway to the big cluster of rocks on top of Finger Mountain. SPHP gives her a needed boost. Caribou Mountain is in sight off to the WNW.

Lupe back up on **Finger Mountain**, her final ascent along the Dalton Highway. Not much of a climb, but she can see **Caribou Mountain** (L) in the distance. Photo looks WNW.

Looking NNW toward the broad **Kanuti River valley** from **Finger Mountain**.

The summit of **Caribou Mountain** (L) is in view directly beyond Loop. A week ago, Lupe and SPHP had been up there. Photo looks WNW with help from the telephoto lens.

Finger Mountain is a short, but worthwhile stop. However, Loopster’s journey S along the Dalton Highway soon continues. (6:09 PM) The last major landmark is the Yukon River. (7:11 PM, 57°F) A couple of dogs down by the river want to be friends with Lupe, but she’s having none of that. Although it’s a beautiful evening, with those dogs pestering her, it’s two photos and the Carolina Dog is ready to scram. (7:26 PM)

On the N bank of the mighty **Yukon River**. Photo looks S.

The **Yukon River** looks like a placid lake on this beautiful evening. Photo looks W.

S of the Yukon River, Lupe’s 2017 adventures along the Dalton Highway are nearing their end. Loop and SPHP have had a fabulous time. The scenic miles go by one after another. Suddenly, Loop and SPHP both see something they’ve never ever seen before. A big wildcat, a lynx, is near the edge of the highway!

The lynx hesitates 4 or 5 seconds. It had intended to cross the road, but changes its mind. As the G6 approaches, the lynx turns and slinks back into the forest. Lupe is all excited, but she won’t see the lynx again.

Ten minutes later, it’s all over. In two days, Lupe has traveled all 414 miles of the Dalton Highway from Deadhorse near Prudhoe Bay back to its start near Livengood. Eight days after leaving Fairbanks to come here, Lupe stands once again at the big sign marking the S end of the Dalton Highway. (8:59 PM, 50°F)

Back at the S end of the Dalton Highway. The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood spent 8 days along the Dalton Highway in 2017, 6 of them actually N of the Arctic Circle. Fabulous times that won’t soon be forgotten.

What tremendous fun it had all been! Climbing glorious mountains, dodging rain, snow and fog, feasting and starving, seeing sights few will ever see while this remote part of the world remains wild and unspoiled, all the way to the Arctic Ocean and back.

NW of Dillon Mountain, Brooks Range, Alaska 8-23-17

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

Lupe in the SCREE! – the Mountaineering Club of Alaska’s monthly newsletter & the story of Henry Pinkham

Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Deadhorse, Alaska – the Arctic Ocean Tour & Sagavanirktok River Walk (8-21-17)

Day 22 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

5:18 AM, 44°F – Already light out, but dense fog hides everything. A strange noise, possibly electronic, is coming from somewhere every few seconds. SPHP checks the camera. No, it wasn’t left on. Lupe is awake. She hears the noise, too, but seems unconcerned. After a minute or two, the noise stops. Odd. Whatever. Back to sleep.

7:54 AM, 44°F – Wow, stayed conked out a long time! Still foggy, but the silvery Sagavanirktok River is now in view. Loop’s ready to get out and sniff the air. There’s that strange noise again. It’s not electronic. Birds resembling loons afloat on the Sag are the source. Cool!

It’s Monday morning. Deadhorse is awake now and apparently back to work, no longer the ghostly place it was last night. Loop hears loud noises, a variety of banging and clanging coming from across the Dalton Highway. The Carolina Dog hates loud noises! Lupe wants back in the G6, where she curls up to snooze some more.

Lupe wakes up to a view of the silvery **Sagavanirktok River** in Deadhorse, Alaska. Photo looks SE.

9:00 AM, 45°F – The trip journal is caught up again now. Lupe’s nap is done. The fog has lifted somewhat. Out of the G6 for another look at the Sagavanirktok River. Then it’s time to scout out breakfast possibilities, and find out more about the Arctic Ocean tour – today’s big event!

After her early nap, Lupe checks out the view of the **Sagavanirktok River** again. More than an hour has gone by, and the fog has lifted.

In 2016, Lupe had taken the Dalton Highway halfway to Deadhorse. She’d climbed a pair of wonderful peaks in Alaska’s Brooks Range, Sukakpak Mountain and Dillon Mountain, and gone on her 2016 Last Mile North adventure.

While in the Brooks Range, Lupe and SPHP had met several groups of people who had been all the way to Deadhorse at the end of the Dalton Highway. Deadhorse is only 6-8 miles S of Prudhoe Bay. However, for oilfield security purposes, the public is not allowed free access to the Arctic Ocean. The only way to get there is by taking a guided tour.

SPHP asked everyone Lupe met if they had taken the Arctic Ocean tour, but nobody had. Everybody liked Alaska’s North Slope, and most had seen some really cool wildlife along the Dalton Highway – snowy owls, arctic foxes, caribou and even musk ox – but no one liked Deadhorse, an ugly industrial complex. And no one thought the price of the Arctic Ocean tour was worth it. Everyone had seen other oceans elsewhere, and that was good enough for them.

Really? The Arctic Ocean not worth it? Not even once, just to have been there and seen some part of the polar ocean at the top of the world? SPHP already knew that Dingoes weren’t officially allowed on the Arctic Ocean tour, but intended to plead Lupe’s case. If Loop had to buy a ticket, too, so be it. Even cheapskate SPHP would spring for that, if it meant the American Dingo could stand on the shore of the Arctic Ocean!

The Arctic Ocean tour begins at Deadhorse Camp, a long boxy yellow tan building visible on the L side of the Dalton Highway on the way into Deadhorse. Lupe had stopped by Deadhorse Camp late yesterday evening.

Lupe had stopped by Deadhorse Camp yesterday evening. It was easy to spot on the L side of the Dalton Highway shortly after reaching the outskirts of Deadhorse.

Since Deadhorse Camp was already within sight, SPHP drove over there first. Lupe waited in the G6 while SPHP went inside.

Already a little past 9:00 AM, it turns out that the first Arctic Ocean tour of the day has already left. The tour is conducted twice daily. A shuttle bus leaves from Deadhorse Camp at 8:30 AM and 3:30 PM. Each tour typically takes a little under 2 hours. Most of the tour is actually about the Prudhoe Bay oilfield. However, limited access to the Arctic Ocean is provided for 15 to 30 minutes. Cost is $69.00 per person, which includes all taxes and fees.

Fine, fine! It was all fine, except for one thing.

I’m sorry, Loopster! You can’t go. I tried to talk them into it, even offered to buy you a separate ticket, but it all fell on completely deaf ears. They were adamant. No Dingoes allowed.

I won’t ever get to see the Arctic Ocean?

No. I know it isn’t fair, and I’m terribly sorry. Apparently there’s just no way to get them to change their minds.

So, now what?

Well, if you don’t mind, I’d like to go on the tour myself, as the personal representative of the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood. It’s the best we can do under the circumstances.

And I have to wait here in the G6?

Yes. It’s only a couple of hours. You can take it easy, and have another nap.

I suppose that’s OK, SPHP. As Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood, I suppose I really ought to send you as my representative since I can’t go myself. Are you leaving now?

Oh, good. Glad you see it that way, Loop. No, I’m not leaving yet. The next tour isn’t until later this afternoon. We can go do some other stuff in the meantime.

Like what?

Well, for starters, we should go to the end of the Dalton Highway. The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood should get her picture taken there for posterity, don’t you think? It’s only a couple of miles from here.

Oh, yeah! That’s true! We didn’t get a picture there last night, did we? Let’s go get that taken care of before we forget.

Lupe stands on the Dalton Highway in Deadhorse, Alaska. The 414 mile long highway officially ends at the T intersection in front of **Lake Colleen** just ahead. Photo looks W.

Looking back from the end of the Dalton Highway. This is the start of the way back S to Livengood and Fairbanks. Photo looks E.

Lupe poses near **Lake Colleen** a little beyond the end of the Dalton Highway. Lake Colleen is the largest lake in Deadhorse. It’s possible to drive completely around it.

SPHP congratulated Lupe on reaching the end of the Dalton Highway. Maybe she would like to send her Grandma a postcard from Deadhorse? Loop thought that would be a good idea! Wouldn’t Grandma be surprised to learn she was way up here practically at the Arctic Ocean?

The clerk at the Prudhoe Bay Hotel had given SPHP a simple map of Deadhorse last night. It didn’t show much detail, but all the major roads were on it, and so was Brooks Range Supply. The clerk had said Brooks Range Supply had a gift shop. That might be a good place to look for a postcard.

The simple map of Deadhorse that SPHP received courtesy of the Prudhoe Bay Hotel. Not much detail, but the major roads are shown.

When Lupe reached Brooks Range Supply, she found a sign welcoming her to Deadhorse, Alaska on the side of the building. SPHP recognized this sign, having seen it online before Lupe ever left home on this Dingo Vacation. Now Lupe was actually here, thousands of miles from home!

Lupe outside Brooks Range Supply. SPHP recognized the yellow sign welcoming Looper to Deadhorse from the internet.

SPHP went into Brooks Range Supply while Lupe lounged about in the G6. The main floor was a giant parts store. No doubt it all would have been enormously useful if Loop intended to start up her own oilfield. However, as profitable as that might have been, it wasn’t actually the case.

A little exploring revealed that the Deadhorse post office was located here, too. It was also on the main floor down a hallway. The gift shop turned out to be a much smaller area upstairs. The gift shop had lots of clothing, mugs, and all that sort of stuff for tourists. They had postcards too, but the postcards about Alaska were all generic. SPHP had hoped to find something specific to Deadhorse, Prudhoe Bay, or the Arctic Ocean. No such luck.

SPHP bought an Alaska postcard, anyway. SPHP then returned to Lupe in the G6, to write up her postcard to Grandma before mailing it. Lupe made sure SPHP mentioned she was sending lots of love to Grandma, too.

After mailing the postcard, it was late morning. Still plenty of time left before the afternoon Arctic Ocean tour. On the way to Brooks Range Supply, SPHP had seen a multi-story hotel called the Aurora. Maybe it was possible to get lunch there? It meant another wait for Lupe in the G6, but she didn’t mind as long as she got some Taste of the Wild.

Loop outside the Aurora Hotel. The Aurora turned out to be a great place to eat!

Upon entering the Aurora Hotel, signs indicated blue slip-on boot covers were required to help keep the hotel floors clean. This is apparently standard practice everywhere in Deadhorse. The Prudhoe Bay Hotel had required them last night, too. The disposable boot covers were provided free at the entryway, along with benches to sit on while putting them on. Everyone complies, and so did SPHP.

Coming to the Aurora for lunch proved to be a fantastic idea! SPHP learned that an all you can eat luncheon was about to be served. It was buffet style and being set up right now. $15.00 tax included. A huge, high-ceiling dining area featured tall glass windows overlooking Lake Colleen. When the buffet was ready, the food was delicious! A wide variety of entrees was available. Being the middle of the day, the dining room was mostly empty. The Aurora’s customers are mostly oilfield workers, who were either working or sleeping this time of day.

SPHP tanked up on everything imaginable while watching waterfowl on Lake Colleen. It was 12:34 PM when SPHP waddled out of the Aurora.

Certainly took your sweet time, didn’t you?

Oh, Loopster! Too bad you can’t go in there. The Aurora is fantastic! So good. Better get used to the wait. Found out breakfast is served 4:30 AM to 7:30 AM. Not missing that before we leave Deadhorse in the morning.

Well, at least someone is having a grand time in Deadhorse!

Oh, come on. Here, I’ve smuggled you out some bacon. Besides, you’re going to have some fun now. We have time for a Sagavanirktok River walk. Should be a good time.

Bacon? Now you’re talking, SPHP!

Deadhorse is full of all sorts of interesting stuff. Here Lupe stands near a line of whatever in the heck they are not far from the Aurora Hotel.

For an hour, Loopster did have fun along the Sagavanirktok River. She explored rock jetties along the riverbank. She sniffed around gullies in the tundra nearby. The Carolina Dog watched geese flying in formation, and barked excitedly each time an airplane roared low overhead.

The Sag looked all silvery from even a short distance, but up close it was more of a greenish silver. The water was neither murky nor particularly clear. It was possible to see quite a few feet down into the water. The river was hundreds of feet wide, but other than the main channel, most of it didn’t appear deep. Though the current looked strong, the river’s surface rippled only slightly.

Lupe near the start of her early afternoon **Sagavanirktok River** walk.

Looking upstream. The bank is all artificially built up along here to prevent flooding.

Lupe explores rocks of one of the jetties. Photo looks downstream.

Checking out one of the gullies near the Sagavanirktok River. Some of the gullies were much deeper than this.

Deadhorse was a busy place in the middle of the day. Lupe eventually became concerned with all the industrial noises she was hearing, and wanted to return to the G6. (1:57 PM) SPHP had noticed that a small gift shop in the Aurora Hotel did have postcards about Prudhoe Bay. Might as well go back and get one. Time enough to do that before heading over to Deadhorse Camp.

2:45 PM – Loop’s relaxing in the G6. Just arrived at Deadhorse Camp to pay for the Arctic Ocean tour. The guy who takes the money asks for SPHP’s identification, which is duly presented, then mentions there’s a problem. Half an hour ago, BP (formerly British Petroleum, which holds the lease in the tour area) emailed the Deadhorse Camp tour operators that everyone must make reservations at least 24 hours in advance. This is so they have time to run an FBI check.

In recent times, this has always technically been a requirement, but they haven’t been enforcing it. SPHP can’t go on this afternoon’s Arctic Ocean tour, unless the BP people waive the requirement. Will seeing an American passport help? No. It all depends on the shuttle bus driver, who is a long time BP employee. Until he arrives, nothing to do but wait. The Deadhorse Camp guy says he will encourage a waiver, but no promises.

3:30 PM – The shuttle bus has arrived. The driver hadn’t even seen the email yet. The Deadhorse Camp guy says that when he does, the driver checks everyone’s ID information then agrees to simply blow the email off, at least for this afternoon’s tour. The Arctic Ocean tour is a go! SPHP pays the $69.00 in cash, and climbs aboard the shuttle bus along with the 4 other people taking the tour. Minutes later, the tour is underway.

The tour is very informal. The driver gives no prepared talk, but is willing to answer questions. He is an Alaska native born in Kotzebue, a town of 3,500 on the W coast a little N of the Arctic Circle. He has seen herds of several thousand wild reindeer there. Zinc mining is the big employer in Kotzebue.

The driver has been working on the North Slope for 28 years in various capacities, and lives in Anchorage now. Most oilfield workers do. The company pays for flights between the job and Anchorage, on a rotating on/off cycle. While in Deadhorse, everyone works every day. Not much else to do here, anyway.

A brief stop at the East Checkpoint. The tour is authorized to continue on through the Prudhoe Bay oilfields. The driver points out several of the many scattered oilfield facilities seen from the road, and explains their purpose. If requested, he will stop anywhere along the way for photos or a longer look.

One of a variety of oilfield facilities the Arctic Ocean tour goes by.

Swans on a pond en route to the Arctic Ocean.

What you get out of the shuttle bus part of the tour depends entirely on what you put into it. Ask no questions, and it’s just a taxi ride. You won’t learn much of anything. A man from western Colorado asks a number of questions. SPHP keeps up a near constant Q & A session with the driver, who is a friendly guy. No one else says anything, except a woman with a fancy camera who wants to stop wherever there’s wildlife.

SPHP notices a pile of clean white towels on the seat behind the bus driver, and makes a joke about should have brought a bathing suit, then suddenly realizes that’s exactly what those towels are for. The shuttle bus driver confirms it. Dang! Really should have worn a bathing suit. Never even thought of it until now. A swim in the Arctic Ocean would have been something! Too late now.

Something like half an hour after leaving Deadhorse Camp, the shuttle bus arrives at its destination. This is it, the Arctic Ocean! Everyone piles out. Ahead a gravelly spit of land protrudes a couple hundred yards out into the sea. No one can go anywhere except this one little peninsula. The driver says that Prudhoe Bay is on the L (W) and the Beaufort Sea is on the R (E). Seems unlikely to be strictly true, but we’re going with it. Everyone walks out toward the end of the spit.

This is it! The highlight of the **Arctic Ocean** tour. For $69 you can walk out to the end of this gravelly spit of land protruding into the sea. On the L is **Prudhoe Bay**, on the R is the **Beaufort Sea**. If only Lupe could have been here!

Everything is gray. The ocean is gray, the sky is gray, the rocks are gray. The sea is quite calm. SPHP takes off shoes and socks, and wades in. The water is cold, but no worse than the streams Lupe has been fording in Alaska. The water is surprisingly shallow near shore. SPHP wades 30 or 40 feet out into the Beaufort Sea. The ocean is only knee deep.

Looking out across the **Beaufort Sea**.

The personal representative of the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood stands out in the Beaufort Sea experiencing the Arctic Ocean for 5 minutes, then bends down to pluck a stone off the seabed. Except for a narrow white stripe, the stone is a uniform dull gray. Worn smooth by the action of the waves, it’s a little over 2 inches long. A 0.25 inch diameter depression on one side is the only significant feature.

A souvenir. Something real to take home from the Arctic Ocean. Utterly meaningless to the rest of the world, but forever a tangible reminder of this moment a few tens of feet off the N coast of Alaska. Clutching the small stone, SPHP wades back to join the other tour members on shore.

The **Beaufort Sea** from the end of the spit.

Various energy industry facilities are off in the distance strung out all along the coast in both directions. Nearby a double row of rusty barrels extends out into the sea. Little waves lap the shore line. Too bad Lupe couldn’t be here. It’s a great day. Temps in the 40’s °F. Wonder what this place must be like in winter? Brutal, no doubt.

A view of some sort of oil industry facility across the bay with help from the telephoto lens. The tour guide said that all Prudhoe Bay facilities are onshore. No off-shore drilling goes on up here.

Another oil industry complex across **Prudhoe Bay** with help from the telephoto lens.

A double line of rusting barrels extends out into the **Arctic Ocean**.

Side view looking toward the **Beaufort Sea**.

Other tour members start back to the shuttle bus. Must be time. SPHP lingers at the end of the spit, staring out across the Arctic Ocean. The North Pole is somewhere out there, still roughly 1,200 miles away. This is as close as SPHP will ever get.

Final look at the **Arctic Ocean** before boarding the shuttle bus.

The shuttle bus ride back to Deadhorse Camp retraces the original route to the ocean. Three arctic foxes playing together are the highlight of the return trip.

One of the three arctic foxes seen on the way back to Deadhorse Camp. Look at that magnificent bushy tail!

The 3 foxes were very lively and enjoyed rough and tumble games with each other.

Lupe would have loved playing with the foxes! How they might have felt about being joined by an American Dingo is another matter.

Another energy industry complex on the way back to Deadhorse Camp.

So, how was the Arctic Ocean tour, SPHP? Was it worth it?

Yeah, it was Loop. Really wished you could have been there the whole time, though. I waded right out into the Arctic Ocean!

Wasn’t it frigid?

Not as bad as I expected, but then it’s a balmy day in August. No worse than all the streams and bogs you’ve been traipsing through almost daily on this trip.

What did you like best about it?

Just being there, thinking about where I was on the globe. Zillions of people have been to the ocean, but not that many have ever been to the Arctic Ocean.

Hardly any Dingoes either, I don’t suppose, given the anti-Dingo policies around here.

Probably not, but your cousins have been there!

What?!

We saw three arctic foxes! They were playing together. You would have loved that. And their tails! Magnificent! I like your curly tail, but these foxes had some of the most exquisite tails you’ve ever seen.

Oh, fun! But I think I better stick with the tail I’ve got. I’m rather attached to it, and it to me. So, now what?

Well, how about a tour of Deadhorse? You can at least do that. We’ll just drive around seeing whatever there is to see. We can follow it up with a second Sagavanirktok River walk this evening.

Sounds good. Especially the river walk part. I’m not really so into all this industrial stuff, but we might as well see it while we’re here.

Leaving Deadhorse Camp, Lupe and SPHP drove most of the few major roads in Deadhorse. Several short side roads and a couple of large loops constituted most of the Carolina Dog’s Deadhorse tour.

Nearly everything Lupe saw was directly related to the energy industry. Various industrial installations, a wide variety of oil service companies, drilling rigs, heavy equipment, maintenance and storage facilities, and stacks of supplies were about it. White pickup trucks were all over the place, and semi trucks came and went.

The only businesses open to serving the general public seemed to be the small airport, a couple of unmanned gas stations, various boxy “hotels”, and the gift shop at Brooks Range Supply.

Not a single home was seen anywhere. All the oilfield workers live in the hotels.

Idle drilling rigs in Deadhorse. Energy prices had been low for a couple of years now.

Lupe went clear around Lake Colleen on her tour of Deadhorse. Here she’s NW of the lake only 6 miles from Prudhoe Bay.

The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood a little NW of Lake Colleen.

A truck maintenance and repair facility. Some places in Deadhorse looked quite new like this one. Others appeared much older.

Lots of oil service companies have offices and facilities in Deadhorse.

SPHP has a red stocking cap that says “Halliburton”. It was picked up at a garage sale years ago, but brought SPHP instant acceptance here in Deadhorse. Everyone seemed to think SPHP worked here!

Hotels in Deadhorse really look strange. They are all boxy like this, but are often surprisingly nice inside. Only some of them cater to the public. Most are full of oilfield workers since there are no homes at all in Deadhorse.

One of two gas stations in Deadhorse. This is the fanciest one. Both are completely unmanned. No convenience stores here or anywhere else in Deadhorse. Except for energy industry related businesses, there’s no business district at all.

Mural on one of the buildings. Deadhorse is part of Alaska’s nearly 95,000 square mile North Slope Borough.

8:17 PM – Having had a bite to eat, it was time for Lupe’s evening walk along the Sagavanirktok River. For the first time in many days, most of the sky overhead was completely blue, though clouds existed farther off in every direction. The Sag, as it’s called locally, reflected the sky and was now a beautiful blue itself.

Lupe starts her second **Sagavanirktok River** walk of the day – an unhurried, evening stroll upstream.

Following the beautiful **Sagavanirktok River** upstream in Deadhorse.

The American Dingo wasn’t the only one out enjoying the lovely evening by the Sagavanirktok River. Several fishermen were trying their luck from the bank. A couple of hardy souls came floating down the river. Even though only a light intermittent breeze was blowing, a man kept trying to launch a green kite. The kite would soar briefly before plunging back to earth.

A couple of hardy souls go floating by down the Sagavanirktok River.

The green kite soars briefly on a weak, unreliable breeze.

After a long relaxing stroll, Lupe reached a van parked near the river not far from Deadhorse Camp. The van belonged to a graduate student in theoretical chemistry from Germany. He was watching caribou far beyond the opposite bank of the Sagavanirktok with binoculars. The student let SPHP take a peek.

The theoretical chemist already had reservations to take the Arctic Ocean tour tomorrow. SPHP advised him to wear his swim suit. Lupe enjoyed being petted while the student and SPHP chatted.

This was far enough. The sun was getting low. The moment came to turn around, and begin the walk back to the G6.

Lupe at the endpoint of her **Sagavanirktok River** walk.

Looper had quite a romp among the gullies near the river. She sniffed and explored to her heart’s delight.

Among the gullies where Loop had a fun romp.

The sun took a long time to slide toward the horizon. It was still light out and would be for a while when Lupe reached the G6 again. (9:37 PM) Almost an hour later, SPHP invited Loop to come out and watch the sun go down over the Deadhorse airport. A brilliant sunset seemed like a possibility due to some thin clouds.

The Carolina Dog was done for the day. She wanted to curl up under her blankie instead. SPHP left her to snooze, and walked 5 minutes to the top of a mound of dirt 15 feet higher than the surrounding tundra.

Alone, SPHP stood watching the sun sink. The sunset was pretty, but the hoped for pinks and reds never really developed. It was still a gorgeous evening, a magical moment. An Alaska Airlines plane took off from the airport and curved away overhead. A glistening Sagavanirktok River rippled by near the end of its journey to the Arctic Ocean.

The set up for the sunset looked promising.

But the pinks and reds never really developed.

Tomorrow Lupe would leave for other adventures. SPHP was glad she’d come here, though, beyond the Brooks Range and across the North Slope to Deadhorse at the N end of the Dalton Highway near Prudhoe Bay.

Sagavanirktok River, Deadhorse, Alaska 8-21-17

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