North Slope – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Imnavait Mountain, North Slope, Alaska (8-26-22)

Day 28 & Part 1 of Day 29 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

8-26-22, 9:25 AM, 53ºF, Dalton Highway, roughly MP 291 – Uh-oh! The pilot car was slowing down and pulling over.

You can’t walk here! This is an active construction zone. You can walk on the tundra. Get off the highway!

No problem! Intended to leave it in just a couple more minutes, but we’ll get off it right now.

Where do you think you’re going, anyway?

SPHP waved a pole N. Imnavait!

Evidently surprised, the pilot car lady smiled.

Oh! Well, have fun!

We will! Our car is parked 100 feet off the highway along the side road back on that last hill. Is it OK to leave it there?

That’s fine!

Pilot car lady smiled again, waving as she drove off. Lupe left the N side of the Dalton Highway as the line of cars and huge trucks following the pilot car began streaming by.

Down on the tundra, SPHP consulted the topo map again. Scarcely any contours at all on it for a long way, but SPHP was 99% certain Lupe was in the right place.

Well, shucks, Loop. Hoped we wouldn’t have to leave the Dalton until we got to the next rise, but this will do. At least we got E of the river before getting kicked off. Shouldn’t have to ford anything now.

So we head N from here to the big hill we saw from the highway, SPHP?

Pretty much it, Loopster. Only 0.5 mile to HP2810. Imnavait ought to be in sight from there again. This is either going to be awesome or ghastly. Should know which soon enough. If it’s too bad, we’ll cut our losses and retreat. Sure hope we don’t have to do that, though. Been waiting for this moment for 5 years, ever since you climbed Slope Mountain (4,010 ft.).

After starting a GPS track, it was Onward! Puppy, ho!

8-26-22, earlier at the Galbraith Lake Campground – The morning had started out a little iffy. The Carolina Dog woke to a uniformly overcast sky, and rain on the RAV4. Didn’t amount to much, though. Hardly even got the ground wet before it was over and done with. Uncertain what was going to happen, SPHP got the pack ready, just in case.

8-26-22, 8:03 AM, 50ºF – Lupe was on her way. Things were looking up! Off to the SE, the sun was trying to break through the clouds, and a big patch of blue sky was to the N. Returning to the Dalton Highway, SPHP turned N. After going up the first big hill, sunlight was on the tundra by Lake 2892 at the edge of the North Slope.

**Lake 2892** N of the Brooks Range at the **edge of the North Slope**. Photo looks WSW.

The Dalton Highway turned E at Toolik Lake. A few miles later, SPHP ran into road construction. 16 miles of it! Loopster didn’t need to go anywhere near that far. Imnavait Mountain (3,702 ft.) was already in sight. The best place to start for it was only 3 or 4 miles farther, from a ridge in Section 21 between a tributary of the Kuparuk River to the W, and the Toolik River to the E.

The road construction messed up that plan. When a side road appeared on the R (S) at a ridge 0.75 mile W of the intended starting point, SPHP had abandoned the pilot car queue. The RAV4 could stay here, as later confirmed by the pilot car lady. And that was how Lupe had wound up trotting E along a forbidden stretch of the Dalton Highway.

**Imnavait Mountain** (R) from the **Dalton Highway**. Photo looks N with help from the telephoto lens.

Parked along the side road in the SE corner of Section 20. Photo looks S.

8-26-22, 9:55 AM – Imnavait Mountain came back into sight well before Lupe reached HP2810, which was scarcely identifiable as any particular point out on the vast tundra plain. Lupe’s first objective, the Alaska oil pipeline, was in view, too, much closer than Imnavait. Looking back S, big trucks rumbled along the highway in the region originally intended for the Carolina Dog’s departure. They’d soon be left far behind.

**HP2901** (L) and **Imnavait Mountain** (R) come back into view. Photo looks N.

A glimpse back at trucks on the **Dalton Highway**. Photo looks S.

Important information had been already been gleaned during the initial short trek since leaving the highway. As expected, the tundra was nearly all tussocky, which made for rather slow going. On the bright side, these tussocks weren’t as big as feared. Better yet, the holes surrounding them were usually relatively dry, instead of full of stagnant water. Happily, no bugs to speak of, a situation perhaps aided by the S breeze.

Grassy and green areas were to be avoided. That was a sign of water. Lupe had already passed several miniature swamps. Reaching another one, SPHP pointed toward a long ridge off to the NE.

See the high point toward the R end of that big ridge, Loop?

Of course! We aren’t going way over there, are we, SPHP?

Already did, Loopster. That’s Slope Mountain (4,010 ft.)! For 5 years now, it’s been the peak farthest N of any significant size that you’ve ever climbed. If we get to Imnavait Mountain (3,702 ft.) today, you’ll set a new personal record!

**Slope Mountain** (R) in the distance from a water hole. Photo looks NE.

Imnavait can’t be much farther N than Slope Mountain, SPHP.

No, it isn’t, Looper. Only 1.5 miles. Not as high, either. On the other paw, getting to Imnavait is a much more daring enterprise. Slope Mountain is a mere day hike, but the journey to Imnavait is 8 or 9 miles one way from the Dalton Highway. That’s no day hike! At least, not for us among all these tussocks.

So we’re staying out overnight at Imnavait Mountain, SPHP?

Yup, I’ve got your tiny house with us.

Camping out overnight on a mountain N of the Brooks Range way out on the North Slope of Alaska? That sounds awesome, SPHP!

Yeah, I’m excited, Loopster! Who knows what we’ll see? If it weren’t for our new iPhone and the Peakbagger.com app allowing us to record a GPS track, we probably wouldn’t even dare attempt this.

Why is that, SPHP?

You’ve seen how foggy this territory can be, Loop. Fog might sweep in and stay for days out here. Would be so easy to wind up hopelessly lost on the trackless tundra with virtually no significant landmarks for miles on end.

8-26-22, 10:18 AM, 52ºF – Reaching the Alaska oil pipeline, the GPS track said that Lupe had traveled 1.2 miles since leaving the Dalton Highway. Following the pipeline E to the top of a very broad, gently rounded ridge, it was time for a short break. So far, the only wildlife Lupe had seen was a flight of 9 gray birds with white wings she’d accidentally scared up.

Pondering the vast distance still remaining between the pipeline and Imnavait Mountain, SPHP wondered what else might be out here?

**Imnavait Mountain** (Center) from the **Alaska oil pipeline**. Photo looks N.

By the **Alaska oil pipeline**. Photo looks ENE.

Keep your ears, eyes, and nose alert, Loop! Might see caribou or musk ox!

Maybe a polar bear, SPHP!

Not sure polar bears stray this far S of the ocean, Looper, but who knows?

Everything had gone well thus far, although what blue sky there’d been at the start was gone now. However, the uniform gray clouds didn’t look at all threatening. As long as the wind stayed out of the S, SPHP didn’t anticipate much of a change.

Well, guess this is it, Loop! Ready to leave this last vestige of civilization, and continue N?

The American Dingo apparently had no qualms about it, setting off N across the tundra again.

8-26-22, 11:43 AM, 1 mile SSE of HP2626 – 2.9 miles in, according to the GPS track, Lupe came to a caribou skull with antlers at the top of a small rise. It looked very old, and almost seemed as if it had been deliberately placed here as a landmark.

Since leaving the Alaska oil pipeline, the entire trek N had become a game of trying to avoid the worst of the tussocks, with mixed success.

Lupe didn’t like the tussocks, and had just plodded along behind SPHP much of the way. Unsurprisingly, parts of the tundra were wet. SPHP’s boots and socks were soaked through now, both unavoidable and to be expected. Lately there had been some slightly higher, drier ground. Brilliant red alpine bearberries often marked the best terrain.

Among the alpine bearberries. **Imnavait Mountain** (Center). Photo looks S with help from the telephoto lens.

By the **ancient caribou skull**. **Imnavait Mountain** (Center). Photo looks S.

Beyond the caribou skull, progress was good on firm ground for a little way, but Lupe soon came to more tussocky territory again. The tussocks weren’t terrible, and eventually, after passing a tiny pond, the American Dingo reached “Cherry Butte”. This 10 foot high hill was grassy on top, and richly cloaked with bright red alpine bearberries on its sides.

At a tiny pond. **HP2626** (Center) with **Imnavait Mountain** beyond. Photo looks N.

On **Cherry Butte**. **Imnavait Mountain** (L), **HP2626** (L of Center). Photo looks N.

**W end of the Slope Mountain region** (Center) from **Cherry Butte**. Photo looks NNE.

HP2626 was only a short distance beyond Cherry Butte. Several small ridges provided firm support in this area. Glad to be rid of the tussocks, Lupe took off racing across the tundra, sniffing and exploring with great enthusiasm. Didn’t last long, though. After passing HP2626, a gradual downhill march led right back to a vast, golden plain of tussocks flecked with red that seemingly extended clear to Imnavait Mountain.

The **Brooks Range** (on the horizon) from **HP2626**. Photo looks SSW.

**Imnavait Mountain** from the endless tussock plain **N of HP2626**. Photo looks N.

8-26-22, 12:53 PM, at a boulder – Scattered isolated boulders were about the only feature of the endless plain. Weary of the tussocks, Lupe was trying to doze next to one. Per the GPS track, she was 4.3 miles in now, about halfway to the base of Imnavait Mountain.

The American Dingo hadn’t seen any more wildlife, just bits and pieces of caribou bones and antlers that were so old, it was almost as if caribou were now extinct. Once in a while a bird would twitter, but none were flying. Sort of disappointing that there wasn’t any more than that this far from the highway.

So far, no real change in the weather. A few drops of rain had fallen, but that was it. Except way back S near the Brooks Range, the sky remained completely overcast.

8-26-22, 1:50 PM, 5.4 miles in, Split Rock – No avoiding the tussocks. They were everywhere! Crossing a long flat stretch, a 3 foot high boulder had been visible from quite a distance. Upon arrival, Lupe found it cracked in two, earning this readily identifiable boulder the nickname Split Rock.

The S breeze was diminishing, the sky brighter now. Definitely getting closer to Imnavait Mountain. Beneath the clouds, the mountain was dark gray, with bands of tan toward its steeper E end. Lower and middle slopes appeared dark red, a maroon color that must be vegetation.

8-26-22, 2:46 PM, 6.6 miles in, Gnat Rock – Lupe stood atop another lone boulder that had been visible from a long way off as she’d started up a gradual slope. Still nothing but tussocks and spongy tundra all this way.

Up to this point, SPHP had seen only 3 mosquitoes, but the S breeze had now completely faded away. The air was calm, and there were lots more mosquitoes here. They weren’t the worst of it, though. Annoying clouds of gnats prevented Lupe from staying here more than a few minutes.

On **Gnat Rock**. Hills of the **Itigaknit Mountain** group beyond. Photo looks W.

8-26-22, 3:13 PM – After leaving Gnat Rock, the gradual slope Lupe had been climbing eventually topped out. The ground was drier, rockier, and tussock-free for a little way. A second caribou skull and antlers sat at a high point facing S, lending credence to SPHP’s theory that these caribou skulls had been deliberately placed.

**Imnavait Mountain** from the **2nd caribou skull and antlers**. Photo looks N.

Shortly after passing this 2nd caribou skull and antlers, a small lake S of Imnavait Mountain came into view. The low point of the entire trek was a wet, bushy drainage that had to be crossed W of the lake.

After successfully crossing the drainage, the tussocks encountered as the Carolina Dog started up the long slope leading to the base of Imnavait Mountain were the biggest and most difficult to deal with yet.

Approaching the **lake**. Photo looks N.

**W end of the Slope Mountain region** (L) from **W of the lake**. Photo looks ENE.

8-26-22, 4:16 PM, 8.8 miles in, base of Imnavait Mountain – After trudging partway up the lower S slope, SPHP was happy to finally dump the pack. Still cloudy and calm. Gnats were an annoyance here, too, but nowhere near as bad as they’d been at Gnat Rock.

Lupe was only a little way up Imnavait Mountain’s S slope, but the scene back to the S was stunning! The gently rolling tundra plain was all gold, green, and brown. Splotches of yellow were in the distance along the Kuparuk River valley. On the far horizon, the Brooks Range formed a jagged blue line below the pale gray sky.

The lower slopes of Imnavait Mountain were the most colorful of all! Lupe stood on a flat spot brightly decorated in red, orange, and green.

**Brooks Range** (horizon), **Kuparuk River valley** (Center & R). Photo looks S.

Wow! Looks like we’ve come a long way now, doesn’t it, Loopster? Made it to Imnavait Mountain, though! I can hardly believe it. Beef jerky?

Thought the tussocks would never end, SPHP! And yes, to that last thing.

At the break spot on the **lower S slope of Imnavait Mountain**. Photo looks NW.

The beef jerky was tasty, but suffered from a depressingly short half life.

Feels good resting here, but I suppose we ought to keep going, Loop. Still a long way to the summit, and we better get there this evening while we can see something. Might easily wake up to fog tomorrow. Would be tragic to come all this way, and not get to see the North Slope from the top.

Onward then, SPHP!

Heading N, then NNE, the climb up Imnavait Mountain’s S slope was only moderately steep. No tussocks, but there was some spongy tundra to deal with on the lower slopes. As Lupe got higher, the ground became firmer and rockier. Tremendous beauty was everywhere! Imnavait Mountain was all decked out in brilliant fall colors.

On Imnavait Mountain’s beautiful S slope. Photo looks WNW.

Entering rockier terrain. Not as steep here. Photo looks N.

On a **red and green Christmas carpet** leading higher. Photo looks NNE.

The initial climb was the steepest. After gaining 500 feet of elevation, the rate of climb diminished. Vegetation began thinning out, too. Eventually Lupe came to slope that was all rock. Scrambling up it, she reached an almost level plain. Superimposed on this plain, a 30 foot high platform of rock was immediately ahead.

Looking S again as the rate of climb diminishes. Kind of hazy out there now.

Approaching the rocky slope. Photo looks NNE.

An easy scramble higher. Photo looks NNW.

On the **upper S ridge plain**. **30 foot high platform** (L), **N ridge** and **true summit** (R) in the distance. Photo looks N.

Let’s have a look around from up on that platform, Looper!

8-26-22, 5:36 PM, Imnavait Mountain, W high point of the S ridge – A quick, easy scramble got Lupe up onto a flat patch of grass on top of the 30 foot tall platform. Beyond the grass, a long rocky slope descended gradually W. That was the way to HP2901, if the Carolina Dog wound up being ambitious enough to explore way over to it at some point.

Both Itigaknit Lake and Toolik Lake, plus quite a few smaller ones, were visible off to the SW.

**Toolik Lake** (L) in the distance. **Itigaknit Lake** (R) beyond Lupe. Photo looks SW.

Think this platform is the high point we’ve been seeing from afar, Loop.

Clearly not the true summit, though, SPHP. There’s higher stuff around.

That’s right, Loopster. Imnavait Mountain (3,702 ft.) is shaped sort of like a horseshoe, with the opening to the W. Two big ridges are connected by a saddle at the E end. The true summit is another 350 feet higher over on the N ridge. We’re just at the W high point on the S ridge. The S ridge summit is that bare hill 0.5 mile E.

**Summit of Imnavait Mountain’s S ridge** (R of Center) from the **30 foot high platform**. Photo looks E.

So are we going to go over to the S ridge summit before continuing on to the true summit, SPHP?

Might as well, Loop. It’s actually right on the way to the saddle connecting to the N ridge.

Final moments up on the **30 foot platform** before continuing on to the S ridge summit. Photo looks NW.

The S ridge was very wide. Most of it was an almost level plain of scree as Lupe headed E. However, less than halfway to the S ridge summit, the American Dingo came to a region of much larger rocks where she lost 40 feet of elevation. The rest of the way to the S ridge summit was an easy grind higher on small scree.

**Summit of the S ridge** (L of Center) from the **edge of the 40 foot descent**. **Slope Mountain** (R) in the distance. Photo looks E.

8-26-22, 5:59 PM, 10.0 miles in, Imnavait Mountain, S ridge summit – The S ridge summit was a huge flat area devoid of vegetation, entirely covered with small stones. SPHP was surprised to see a very broad lower bench sweeping all around the S and E sides. This high point was toward the SE end of the entire mountain, but not near any sharp edge.

On the **S ridge summit**. **Slope Mountain** (R) in the distance. Photo looks E.

**Brooks Range** from the **S ridge summit**. Photo looks S.

Well, shucks! There goes my dream of pitching your tiny house right up at the true summit of Imnavait Mountain, Loop. Too rocky here. Presume it will be there, too.

If we find a soft spot anywhere along the way, we ought to take it, SPHP.

Sounds like good advice, Loop. Hoping we’ll see some nice, flat tundra down in the saddle leading to the N ridge.

Back to the W, the 30 foot high platform was still in sight with hills of the Itigaknit Mountain (3,293 ft.) group visible beyond it. However, at the moment, Imnavait Mountain’s N ridge was of more immediate interest. The N ridge looked mostly gray or tan from here, with large patches of yellow vegetation fringed with red. Still 300 feet higher, it had a layered look about it, with the layers gradually rising to the E.

**30 foot high platform** (L) from the **S ridge summit**. **HP2901** (R). Photo looks WNW.

The **N ridge**, **site of Imnavait Mountain’s true summit**. Photo looks N.

Heading NNE, Lupe left the S ridge summit in a 10 mph W breeze and light rain, ultimately losing 250 feet of elevation on the way down to the saddle leading to the N ridge. The scenic descent was a mix of tundra, and steeper, rocky slopes. The Carolina Dog enjoyed beautiful views of Slope Mountain (4,010 ft.) E of the Toolik River valley, and a collection of small lakes to the NE out on the North Slope.

Heading down to the **saddle** (R). **Imnavait Mountain N ridge** (L). Photo looks N.

**Slope Mountain** (Center) beyond the **Toolik River valley**. Photo looks E.

**Lake 2372** (L) in the foreground. Photo looks NE.

Closing in on the **saddle** (R). **N ridge** (L). Photo looks N.

The route the American Dingo would be taking from the saddle NW to the true summit was in view the whole way. Looked like an easy climb up a series of benches. The biggest bench halfway up would involve a fairly steep scramble, but SPHP was confident Lupe wouldn’t have any trouble with it.

Upon reaching the saddle leading to the N ridge, Lupe turned N. The enormous saddle was a mix of tundra and rocky terrain that sloped W. Approaching the N ridge, SPHP dropped the pack at a spot where there was plenty of tundra. Sort of lumpy, but soft enough. It would do.

In the **saddle leading to the N ridge** (L). Photo looks NNW.

8-26-22, 6:50 PM, 10.8 miles in, Imnavait Mountain, near the N end of the saddle between the N and S ridges –

You’re not even going to set up the tiny house, SPHP?

Not yet, Loop. Just going to leave it here for now, since I don’t think there’s any reason to cart it clear up to the true summit and back. So cloudy out that we better keep going while we can still see something.

Abandoning the sleeping bags and the tiny house, Lupe started up the N ridge.

A little over 700 feet to the top from the saddle, the ascent went about as anticipated. Lupe had to circle around the E side a bit on the way up the biggest bench, but after that each rocky bench was smaller. Soon the trek was getting easier and easier as the terrain gradually leveled out.

8-26-22, 7:16 PM, 45ºF, Imnavait Mountain (3,702 ft.) – As expected the enormous summit plain was covered with rocks. They were bigger here than on the S ridge summit, but none of them were very large. Off to the NW, a couple of antennas were visible along the N edge about where the topo map showed the true summit should be.

It only took a few minutes to get there. The antennas had several solar panels and boxes containing electronic equipment associated with them, but there didn’t seem to be a cairn, or even any readily identifiable exact high point.

Congratulations, Loopster! May I shake your paw? We’re here! Imnavait Mountain! Isn’t it splendid?

Lupe extended her paw. A moment later, formalities were complete.

**Imnavait Mountain summit plain**. **True summit** (R). Photo looks NW.

**Imnavait Mountain summit**. Photo looks NNW.

Human stuff! Not all that much of it, but I’m in no mood for it, Loopster. Didn’t come all the way to Imnavait for this. Looks like some more ground every bit as high, or close to it, farther on. Want to keep going?

Fine, if it’s not too far, SPHP. I’m ready for a chocolate coconut bar.

Continuing more than another 0.25 mile NW, Lupe went a little beyond the highest ground, far enough to lose 50 feet of elevation and for the top of HP2901 to come into view, before SPHP called a halt near the N edge.

8-26-22, 7:30 PM, 11.9 miles in, Imnavait Mountain NW viewpoint –

This is good, Loop. Let’s stay here. This is what we came to see.

The SW breeze was chilly, the sun too low to have any punch. SPHP sat facing NW. With nothing but rocks here, Lupe curled up on SPHP’s lap for comfort, providing and receiving warmth.

A good place to brood! The sky was nearly all gray, but there were a few distant holes where sunlight was on the tundra. Off to the NW, a big rain shower slowly drifted NE. For a while it was sunlit, too.

At the **NW viewpoint**. **Rain shower** (L). Photo looks NW.

From this height, the vast tundra plain below stretching away to the N was a dull brown, flecked with gold. Two groups of small, silvery lakes were NNW. Beyond them the Kuparuk River flowed into a bigger lake. Farther still, a dark blue ridge was on the horizon at the edge of vision. It wasn’t very high, just big enough to be seen from Imnavait Mountain.

Empty! All spectacularly empty. The world as it has been for eons.

The North Slope. **Big lake** (L), **low ridge** (R). Photo looks NNW.

If we had a way to resupply ourselves, we could walk all the way to the Arctic Ocean from here, Loop.

You’re talking some serious tussocks now, SPHP! Bet Alaska’s North Slope gets mighty swampy. And speaking of supplies, how about that chocolate coconut bar?

Forgot to bring one, Loop. How about a chocolate chip Cliff bar instead?

That’ll suffice, SPHP. Bring it on!

Having been excited and alert much of the night last night, Lupe was having trouble staying awake. She dozed off and on, as SPHP pondered the magnificent, melancholy views. Lakes W of the Toolik River were visible NE. More lakes and isolated mountains were W of HP2901. 10+ miles WSW, Itigaknit Mountain (3,293 ft.) and Peak 3378 were among them. Itigaknit Lake was SW.

**Brooks Range** (R) far beyond the **Toolik River valley**. Largest on the L is **Lake 2308**.

**Itigaknit Mountain** (L), **HP2901** (R). Photo looks W.

**Peak 3378** (L), **Itigaknit Mountain** (L of Center), **HP2901** (R). Photo looks W.

**Itigaknit Lake** (Center), **Toolik Lake** (far L). Photo looks SW.

Lupe spent more than 40 fabulous minutes at her Imnavait Mountain NW viewpoint while the North Slope filled SPHP’s mind with strange, mystical thoughts of going on forever from here with the Carolina Dog, but it was getting late. Reality intervened. An hour after arriving, Lupe was back at true summit and twin antennas again as light rain returned.

Final moments at the **true summit**. Photo looks NE.

Despite the rain, on the way back to the saddle, Lupe paused at the SE end of the summit plain for a last look at Imnavait Mountain’s S ridge and Slope Mountain. For 5 long years, these views had been ahead, part of the uncertain future. Now the Carolina Dog was actually here, likely already seeing them for the last time from Imnavait’s N ridge.

**Brooks Range** beyond **Imnavait Mountain’s S ridge**. Photo looks S.

**Slope Mountain** (L of Center) beyond the **Toolik River valley**. Photo looks E.

Maybe not.

Quite a view, isn’t it, Loop? Here we are, actually seeing the world from Imnavait Mountain after dreaming about this day for years.

Farthest N we’ve ever been on a mountain, SPHP!

Yeah! Amazing! Tell ya what, Looper. If it’s sunny in the morning, we’ll come back up for another look.

**Brooks Range** beyond **Imnavait’s S ridge**. Photo looks S.

**Brooks Range** from **Imnavait Mountain**. Photo looks SE.

8-26-22, 9:14 PM, saddle between Imnavait Mountain’s N and S ridges – A fantastic, but long day. Weary and damp, both Lupe and SPHP crawled inside the tiny house. The American Dingo enjoyed dinner curled up on her red sleeping bag with part of it pulled over her. Satisfied, snug and warm, Lupe was off in Dingo Dreamland in nothing flat.

**S ridge** from the tiny house. Photo looks SW.

Outside, as an Arctic night settled over Imnavait Mountain, the light rain turned steady. Whatever that might imply could wait for tomorrow.

8-27-22, 8:30 AM, base camp between Imnavait Mountain’s N and S ridge –

Onward! Puppy, ho!

Unfortunately, the Carolina Dog wasn’t going to get to return to Imnavait Mountain’s summit. Overcast again, not a sunny day. Happily, not foggy, either. Instead of going over the S ridge again, this time Lupe left the saddle starting a gradual descent around the E end of the mountain.

The descent was easy. Lupe didn’t begin to lose serious elevation until she got back around to where the unnamed lake S of the mountain was in sight. The tundra was absolutely gorgeous as she reached Imnavait’s lower slopes again.

Starting the descent from the saddle. **Slope Mountain** (L). Photo looks ESE.

The **lake S of Imnavait** comes back into view. Photo looks SSW.

On **Imnavait’s colorful lower slopes**.

Going over Imnavait’s S ridge might actually have been easier. Heading for the W end of the lake to avoid the outlet stream at the E end before turning S, Lupe had to cross many wet drainages. Actually more of a problem for SPHP than the American Dingo.

During the long return S through the tussocks, Lupe revisited many of the minor landmarks she’d been to yesterday. Gnat Rock, Split Rock, HP2626, Cherry Butte, both caribou skulls and antlers! They helped to break the monotony of the tussocks, and provided clear indications of progress. The Alaska oil pipeline came back into view a little before reaching HP2626.

Among the tussocks of the **North Slope** again. **Slope Mountain summit** (R). Photo looks E.

**W end of the Slope Mountain complex**. Photo looks ENE with help from the telephoto lens.

The day turned sort of sunny. 60ºF! SPHP was shedding layers. Off to the E, a heavy dark rain shower developed over by Slope Mountain. SPHP kept an eye on it as it gradually extended its reach.

Leaving **Imnavait Mountain** (R) behind. Photo looks NNW.

There didn’t seem to be any big rush, though. The American Dingo took her time, enjoying brief stops at many of the landmarks she came to. At 3:23 PM, she reached an unusually large, flat boulder being reclaimed by the tundra. The Alaska oil pipeline was only a short distance away now.

Another 1.25 miles, and Lupe would be back at the Dalton Highway.

Approaching the **Alaska oil pipeline** again. Photo looks SSE.

8-27-22, 4:44 PM – Back at the RAV4! Lupe’s grand Imnavait Mountain adventure was over. Anxious to settle down on her comfortable pink blanket, the American Dingo leapt in as soon as SPHP opened the door. Not a moment too soon, either! Fog swept over the land as the Slope Mountain storm arrived.

As soon as SPHP had the gear loaded, Lupe munching happily on a Busy Rib Hide, and a chocolate pudding cup in hand, the RAV4 was back at the Dalton Highway waiting for a chance to follow the next pilot car E. One appeared out of the fog within minutes, and Lupe joined the parade as SPHP cut into the line at the earliest opportunity.

We did it, Loopster! Imnavait Mountain! Your epic adventure way out on Alaska’s North Slope is a glorious big success.

Sort of a different adventure, SPHP. More about distance than climbing, but it really was interesting. Where to now? Deadhorse?

You betcha, sweet puppy! To the end of the Dalton Highway, or bust!

On **Imnavait Mountain**, North Slope, Alaska 8-26-22

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

Slope Mountain & Highlights of the Dalton Highway Revisited, Alaska (8-22-17 & 8-23-17)

BLM Dalton Highway Visitor Guide

Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacations to Wyoming, Canada & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Slope Mountain & Highlights of the Dalton Highway Revisited, Alaska (8-22-17 & 8-23-17)

Days 23 & 24 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

8-22-17, 1:00 AM, near the Sagavanirktok River, Deadhorse, Alaska – SPHP woke up thinking it might be possible for Lupe to see the Northern Lights. Only 2 hours ago, the evening sky had been mostly clear. Dream on. Not now. Foggy, again. Maybe later?

No. A thick fog prevailed every time SPHP checked. Northern Lights? Not happening.

4:14 AM – Still no change. Time to get going anyway. The Aurora Hotel in Deadhorse would be serving breakfast 4:30 AM to 7:30 AM. SPHP didn’t want to miss out on that. May as well beat the crowd and arrive early! Lunch there yesterday had been fabulous.

4:37 AM, 39°F – Beat the crowd? Ridiculous! So naive, it’s funny! The Aurora’s parking lot is already jammed with white pickup trucks. Deadhorse is wide awake and bustling with activity. Oilfield workers are getting breakfast in preparation for the long work day ahead. SPHP finds a spot to squeeze the G6 into. Loopster will have to wait here, but SPHP promises to save her something good from breakfast.

The breakfast buffet is simply awesome! All you can eat for $12.00, tax included. The lady SPHP pays is named Terry. Terry says to feel free when leaving to use one of the paper bags or Styrofoam boxes to take enough extra food for a mid-morning snack later on. Oh, yeah! This is Loopster’s lucky day.

The buffet has pancakes, eggs, muffins, toast, waffles, potatoes, sausages, ham, bacon, fresh fruits, cottage cheese, tea, coffee, fruit juices, soft drinks and so much more. You name it, the Aurora’s got it. Whatever you want, as much as you like. The huge dining room is 80% full with oilfield workers packing it away. They are talking, laughing, and watching the morning news on big flat screen monitors mounted around the room. SPHP sits near one of the huge windows with a view of Lake Colleen, watching ducks and geese in the early morning gloom.

None of the other tourists Lupe and SPHP had met along the Dalton Highway had anything good to say about Deadhorse. Industrial. Ugly. Flat. Boring. Nothing to do. Only a dull, drab turnaround spot for those who bothered going all the way to the end of the Dalton Highway.

Maybe Lupe agreed with them? She hadn’t been able to go on the Arctic Ocean tour with SPHP yesterday, although she’d enjoyed a couple of nice walks along the beautiful Sagavanirktok River.

SPHP didn’t feel that way about Deadhorse at all. Industrial? Yes. Kind of ugly? Yes. Yet it was awesome being way up here near the Arctic Ocean on the N edge of North America. It would be fun to work up here and experience all the radically changing seasons of a long Arctic year, see whatever exotic wildlife might appear, and be part of a crew working long hours to keep the oilfield producing despite tough conditions.

It was exciting just watching the camaraderie of everyone getting ready to go to work in a very special environment. Of course, maybe SPHP is just plain nuts.

Oh, Loop! You lucky, Dingo!

Hmm? What do you mean, SPHP? What are you talking about?

You have just hit the jackpot Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood!

I have? How?

Take a look at this! Fresh bacon, sausages, and ham from the Aurora Hotel! No smuggling a few tidbits to you this time around. They said it was alright. They expected and even encouraged me to take it!

Lupe’s eyes sparkled! Why, it was a box full of delicious, delectable treasures! She wasn’t just dreaming either. It was all real. She was rich!

I can’t believe it! All this for me? Can I have some now?

Go right ahead, Loop. Help yourself. Chow down while I find the gas station and fill up the G6. We’ll be on our way out of Deadhorse soon.

What’s the rush? Maybe we should stick around and make this a tradition? Mmmm. Oh my, this is scrumptious! Thanks so much, SPHP!

After fueling up the G6, SPHP wrote up the second postcard that Lupe was sending to her Grandma from Deadhorse, the one with a picture of a sunset over Prudhoe Bay. Then it was back to the Aurora Hotel real quick like to mail it. It was light out now. The fog was beginning to thin as Lupe and SPHP drove past Deadhorse Camp for the last time, starting the long journey S on the Dalton Highway. (6:24 AM, 38°F)

6:58 AM, 34°F – Ten miles out of Deadhorse, the fog dissipates rapidly. It was only a ground fog. The Carolina Dog soon has views of morning sunlight on the flat tundra. Mist rises from ponds and streams.

Lupe 15 miles out of Deadhorse on what is rapidly becoming a beautiful morning on Alaska’s North Slope.

8:38 AM, 47°F on the Dalton Highway – Woke up too many times last night. After following a pilot car for 14 miles, SPHP is already sleepy. A few miles farther, and Lupe is on a big hill near the place where she’d seen a faint rainbow on the way to Deadhorse a couple of days ago. There’s a pullout by the road. SPHP parks behind a couple of semi trucks. Nap time despite the early hour!

10:19 AM – Awake and feeling much better. Lupe is on her way again. Pretty day. Stop now and then for photos of the Sagavanirktok River. The Brooks Range is in view far beyond the river, but Loop is getting closer to it as she continues S.

Lupe along the Dalton Highway with the **Sagavanirktok River** and the **Brooks Range** in sight beyond her. Photo looks SE.

**Sagavanirktok River** from the Dalton Highway. Photo looks NE.

The **Sagavanirktok River** flows N out of the **Brooks Range** all the way to the Arctic Ocean near Deadhorse and Prudhoe Bay. Photo looks SE.

Foothills of the **Brooks Range** from an unnamed pond along the **Dalton Highway**. Photo looks S.

11:37 AM, 57°F – On the way N to Deadhorse 2 days ago, Lupe had seen a lone mountain among clouds and mist not terribly far from the W side of the Dalton Highway. Although there were lots more mountains off to the E, none of them were accessible, because Lupe would have had to ford the Sagavanirktok River to get to them. However, that one lone mountain to the W had looked like access might not be an issue. This mountain has been in view now for the past half hour. Loop will soon be drawing near it again.

12:03 PM – Parked at the start of an Alaska oil pipeline access road just W of the Dalton Highway. On the other side of the highway, a different side road heads E. A street sign says “Slope Mountain Camp 1”. The lone mountain W of the Dalton Highway must be Slope Mountain (4,010 ft.)! Even though it’s still a few miles off to the SW, it’s the only notable peak anywhere in this vicinity.

After a couple of days spent mostly in the G6, Lupe is ready for action! It would be great fun to climb a mountain way out here on Alaska’s North Slope, and Slope Mountain is the best candidate she’s seen. It’s not clear if she will have to ford any streams to get to the mountain, but it’s worth a reconnaissance trip to check it out. If Looper can get to the base of Slope Mountain, success seems assured. It looks like an easy climb.

The first part of the trek is a cinch. Lupe and SPHP follow the access road leading to the Alaska oil pipeline, then follow the service road near the pipeline SW. The plan is to get as close as possible to a large saddle between Slope Mountain and a lower hill to the NE before leaving the service road to strike out for the saddle.

Lupe near the red gate at the start of the access road leading to the Alaska oil pipeline. She will follow a service road near the pipeline SW (L) before striking out for the big saddle seen beyond her in the distance. Photo looks W.

As Lupe follows the pipeline, it becomes apparent that there is almost certainly a stream between here and Slope Mountain. No stream is in view, but a telltale line of tall bushes 0.25 mile away runs along the lowest part of a large drainage area. The only way to find out how big the stream might be is to march right on down there.

Away from the service road, the tundra becomes increasingly boggy and full of tussocks as Loop makes her way down a long slope. Upon reaching the bushes, she has to cross a couple of gullies which must represent old, abandoned stream channels. Lupe forces a way through a thick stand of bushes, and arrives on the bank of a small river.

After forcing a way through the bushes, Lupe arrives at a small river. Photo looks W.

The stream is deepest near the opposite bank, and appears to be at least knee deep on SPHP. Bushes crowding the far shore look like they might make getting out of the stream a bit of a pain, and the current is fairly strong. Yes, the river looks fordable, but SPHP isn’t eager to take it on. Lupe will have to swim, and it isn’t clear where she can get out on the other side.

Lupe and SPHP stand there, pondering the situation. Things don’t look much different either upstream or downstream. Hmm. So close, yet so far! The stream isn’t dangerous, but not wanting to get soaking wet, SPHP finally decides it isn’t worth risking slipping and falling in, which might easily happen. The river is just a little too deep, and the current a little too strong.

Sigh. Lupe and SPHP turn and head back to the Alaska oil pipeline service road. The return trip is a fun hike, and the Carolina Dog has a blast sniffing and exploring all along the way.

Once back at the G6 (2:03 PM), SPHP continues driving S on the Dalton Highway. Even though Looper’s initial reconnaissance hasn’t produced the desired result, perhaps there is an alternative? Maybe a route to Slope Mountain exists which avoids the river, or at least crosses it at a more favorable point?

Not until Lupe is S of Slope Mountain does SPHP find what looks like the most promising approach. Shortly after the Dalton Highway crosses the small river (signed Oskyruk… something or other) that blocked Lupe’s first attempt, SPHP parks the G6 at a small pullout near the top of a rise. This pullout is 100 feet S of milepost 297 on the E side of the road.

Across the highway, a long golden slope beyond the Alaska oil pipeline leads toward the mountain. No major drainages can be seen between here and Slope Mountain’s summit. The summit is once again miles away, and Loop faces a long trek to a big ramp leading up to the top of the mountain. Nevertheless, the American Dingo shouldn’t have any problem getting there from here!

Lupe ready for another attempt on **Slope Mountain**. The summit is on the L. Photo looks NNE.

This time (2:33 PM, 57°F), the Carolina Dog follows the Alaska oil pipeline service road a mile NE until it starts to lose elevation. She then leaves the road, turning N to begin a long, steady trek up the golden slope leading to Slope Mountain.

Unsurprisingly, much of the tundra is spongy and wet. Tussocks slow SPHP’s progress, and make the gentle climb far more energy draining than it would be on firmer terrain. Wide bands of greener vegetation mark the course of numerous little streams seeping and trickling down the long slope.

Loop and SPHP plod on and on, aiming for the lower end of a big golden ramp, an obvious route leading almost all the way to the top of Slope Mountain. This is such a remote area, SPHP has high hopes Lupe will see some animals up here, but none ever appear. SPHP does scare up a flight of 5 or 6 birds, which excites the American Dingo! For a while, she dashes around in wide circles searching for more, but doesn’t come across any.

Nothing really changes until Loop reaches the base of a fairly steep rocky hillside. An easy scramble brings Loop up onto the big ramp she has been aiming for all this time. Part of the ramp is strewn with loose rock, and the rest consists of still more spongy, damp tundra.

After a miles long march across a tussocky slope and a short scramble up a hillside of rock, Lupe arrives on the big ramp she will follow almost all the way to the top of **Slope Mountain**. Photo looks NE.

The rocky parts of the ramp are easier traveling than the soggy tundra. For quite a long way, Lupe sticks to the rocky SE edge of the ramp where the views are best. When the rocks eventually give out, she crosses the tundra to reach the base of the higher ridge to the NW.

Along the SE edge of the big ramp. Loop eventually went over to the base of the highest ridge seen on the L, and continued up the ramp over there. She didn’t climb up onto the highest ridge until she was nearly to the top of the mountain. Photo looks NE.

Lupe and SPHP follow the base of the higher ridge, staying close to the area where the rocks and tundra meet. Many rocks have broken into relatively thin flat layers. In some places, they form a sort of natural flagstone pathway.

Back down on the long slope leading to Slope Mountain, Lupe had stuck pretty close to SPHP most of the time. Up on the big ramp, though, Looper takes off running and exploring. She runs far ahead of SPHP, and spends her time investigating whatever her super sensitive Dingo nose tells her might be interesting. Apparently, she finds actually being up on Slope Mountain more to her liking.

Loop hasn’t quite reached the end of the big ramp when SPHP figures maybe it’s time to climb up onto the higher ridge. This involves another easy scramble, and doesn’t take long. Upon reaching the top, a large tower is in sight only 200 yards off to the N. The tower stands at the summit of Slope Mountain (4,010 ft.).

Almost there! Lupe discovers this big tower at the summit of **Slope Mountain**. Photo looks N.

Although climbing **Slope Mountain** wasn’t at all difficult, SPHP told Lupe it was still one of her greatest accomplishments. After all, **Slope Mountain** is farther N than any other mountain she has ever climbed. Surely, few Dingoes have ever been on a mountain N of the Brooks Range in Alaska! Photo looks N.

Mechanical noises are coming from a couple of sheds near the tower. The summit area is 5 to 10 acres in size, flat to gently sloping, and covered with small rocks and sparse vegetation. To the N and E, a lip of the mountain drops off rather sharply, but the resulting cliffs aren’t all that high. Passing by the tower, Lupe sees two cairns ahead.

By far the largest cairn is a tower of flat stones near the N edge of the summit area. Someone had put an awful lot of work into creating it.

Lupe by the largest of two cairns on **Slope Mountain**. Someone had put an awful lot of work into building this one! Photo looks E.

Lupe had tremendous views of Alaska’s North Slope from up on **Slope Mountain**. The **Sagavanirktok River** is seen in the distance. Photo looks NE.

More than 50 feet to the W, a faded orange wind sock flies above a much smaller cairn. This cairn is decorated with antlers.

Lupe checks the wind direction indicated by the faded orange wind sock at the top of the smaller cairn. She didn’t really need the wind sock, though, to tell that a chilly breeze was now blowing out of the S. Photo looks NW.

Although it had been sunny and comfortably warm when Lupe struck out for Slope Mountain, a chilly S breeze is blowing now. The sky has clouded over to a considerable degree, and is rather dark to the S where a line of showers can be seen N of the Brooks Range. SPHP forgot the rain poncho back at the G6, so a cold rain is nothing to look forward to.

Unfortunately, with the weather deteriorating, Lupe isn’t going to be able to stay up on top of Slope Mountain very long. About 15 minutes is all the Carolina Dog is going to get before it will be time to vamoose. That is a shame. The views of Alaska’s North Slope are fantastic!

Off to the W is a 6 mile long row of big rounded hills featuring sweeping curves. These hills are roughly 400 feet lower than Slope Mountain. Lupe can see the top of slightly higher Imnavait Mountain (3,702 ft.) 10 miles away beyond them.

**Imnavait Mountain** (Center) appears a few miles beyond a line of big rounded hills W of **Slope Mountain**. Photo looks WNW.

To the N, dark beneath a purple gray sky, Alaska’s flat, featureless North Slope stretches away to a dim horizon. The Sagavanirktok River, which Lupe has come to know over the past couple of days, can still be seen many miles away to the NE. Both the Alaska oil pipeline and Dalton Highway are visible closer by in this direction, too.

The best views, however, are of Alaska’s mighty Brooks Range running 180° from the NE to the E and S all the way around to the SW. Lupe sees many fabulous snow capped peaks, but SPHP doesn’t know the names of any of them.

The **Accomplishment Creek** valley (Center). Photo looks SE toward the **Brooks Range**.

Lupe could see many impressive snowy peaks of the **Brooks Range**. Photo looks SSE.

SPHP is very glad Lupe has made it to the top of Slope Mountain, but it is disappointing to have to depart so soon. Yet it’s the prudent thing to do. Loopster stands sniffing the breeze for a final few moments, while SPHP gazes in wonder upon the glorious views from the mountain farthest N of all the peaks Lupe has ever climbed.

Even concentrating with my eyes closed, I can’t detect a thing, SPHP. I was hoping to sniff out some more ham, bacon and sausages from the Aurora Hotel. I wish you would have brought some in your pocket!

As Looper and SPHP leave Slope Mountain’s summit, electronic noises similar to animal calls begin being emitted from somewhere over by the big tower. Very strange indeed, but no animals appear in response to the tower’s pleas. The noises are soon left behind. Lupe follows the big ramp back down to about where she first reached it on her way up the mountain.

From here, the Carolina Dog takes a more direct route down to the Alaska oil pipeline. This saves time, but it’s still a long way, and results in a longer, but easier march back on the service road to the G6. Thankfully, the rain showers never do catch up with Lupe, having drifted off in another direction. (8:40 PM, 51°F)

The evening is spent some miles farther S at a very large pullout along the E side of the Dalton Highway where a semi truck sits idling. The pullout is on a high spot from which Lupe can still see Slope Mountain as dusk creeps over the land. (9:40 PM)

8-23-17, 6:25 AM, 38°F at a pullout along the Dalton Highway within sight of Slope Mountain, Toolik Lake, and the N side of the Brooks Range – That semi truck idled for hours here last night, but finally quit. A hard rain then fell for a while, but it’s not raining now. For once it isn’t foggy out. The morning sky is mostly cloudy, but these clouds are high and non-threatening. Small patches of blue sky mean there’s still hope Lupe stands a chance of climbing Table Mountain (6,314 ft.) today, her last peakbagging goal along the Dalton Highway.

While the morning sky wasn’t super encouraging, there was still hope Lupe would be able to climb Table Mountain today, her last 2017 peakbagging goal along the Dalton Highway. Photo looks SE toward the **Brooks Range**.

7:30 AM, 38°F – After driving S a little way just to warm up, SPHP parks the G6 again at the side road near milepost 278 where Lupe has twice gone on her short Stroll to the North Slope Knoll adventures. Loop and SPHP share a breakfast of soup, while enjoying views of the North Slope and the N side of the Brooks Range for the last time.

9:18 AM, 44°F – It’s a lovely day! Loop has stopped briefly at a side road a short distance S of the Dalton Highway bridge over the Atigun River. Lake Benchmark Mountain, which Loopster climbed 5 days ago in rain, snow, and fog is in clear view. Too bad conditions back then weren’t like they are now. At least the American Dingo had succeeded in reaching the summit, despite climbing the wrong mountain first.

**Lake Benchmark Mountain (5,000 ft.)** (L) which Lupe had climbed 5 days ago in rain, snow, mist and fog is in clear view from a side road a little S of the Dalton Highway bridge over the Atigun River. Photo looks NNE.

10:10 AM, 32°F – Lovely day? Hah! So much for that. After a gorgeous drive S up the Atigun River valley, a snowstorm greets Loop at Atigun Pass. The snow is already sticking to the road. Probably a good thing Lupe is getting S of the pass. Wouldn’t take much of a snowstorm to make the Dalton Highway impassable here for the G6. Still more than a week to go in August, and it’s a real possibility!

Lupe arrives at **Atigun Pass** in a snowstorm. Good thing she’s on her way S of the pass before the G6 can no longer make it over.

10:52 AM, 39°F – Weather conditions are definitely better here at the Chandalar Shelf than up at Atigun Pass. However, it’s still marginal for an attempt on Table Mountain. There’s actually some blue sky around, but plenty of clouds and patches of fog are sweeping by from out of the Dietrich River valley, too. The summit of Table Mountain can sometimes be seen. Definitely considerably more new snow up there than the last time Lupe dropped by 3 days ago.

Having spent a while dithering over whether it is a good idea or not, Loop and SPHP set off across the Chandalar Shelf heading for Table Mountain (6,314 ft.).

Not even 10 miles from Atigun Pass, weather conditions are much better here at the **Chandalar Shelf**. Photo looks E.

Conditions are still marginal, however, for an attempt on **Table Mountain** (L). Clouds and fog sail by from out of the Dietrich River valley. Photo looks S.

11:26 AM, 39°F – Well, that was a total flopperoo! Already back at the G6. The wind driving clouds up out of the Dietrich River valley was just plain chilly. SPHP’s feet were soon soaking wet from marching across the Chandalar Shelf’s boggy tundra. Visibility was constantly being threatened by fog.

Table Mountain is a good long day hike. No way was Lupe going to make it to the summit under these conditions. Even if she did, who knew if the Carolina Dog would be able to see anything up there hours from now? Spending the whole day cold, wet, and miserable for such an uncertain result simply wasn’t worth it.

Too bad, though. Table Mountain always looked like a terrific, fun peak. Lupe has been by the Chandalar Shelf four times now, but conditions have never been right. This was her last chance. Oh, well. Two minutes after making it back to the G6, it starts to rain. Yeah, returning was the right decision.

SPHP promises Lupe she can go on her 2016 Last Mile North adventure again near Dillon Mountain (4,820 ft.). It’s much shorter, easier, and can be done whether the weather is decent or not. In fact, with Table Mountain now off the table, the rest of the day will be spent revisiting several of Loopster’s favorite quick stops along the Dalton Highway on the way back to Fairbanks.

12:25 PM, 48°F – The G6 is parked W of the Dalton Highway just S of the Dietrich River (S of milepost 207). Lupe is excited! The American Dingo recognizes this place. Her 2016 Last Mile North adventure is one of her very favorites. It’s an easy stroll N along the Alaska oil pipeline service road to a stream flowing W from a valley N of Dillon Mountain.

The original longer version of this adventure follows the stream all the way W to a confluence with the Dietrich River. With 207 miles yet to go on the Dalton Highway today, Loop isn’t going to go all the way to the confluence. Still, this will be a genuine treat for the Carolina Dog.

Lupe is eager to get going! She doesn’t want to waste a single minute. It’s virtually non-stop running, sniffing, chasing, and exploring the whole way.

After crossing the bridge over the **Dietrich River**, Lupe stops for a look at magnificent **Sukakpak Mountain**, one of the Dalton Highway’s best known landmarks.

Lupe climbed **Sukakpak Mountain** in 2016. It was her first big adventure in this part of the Brooks Range. Photo looks S.

After crossing the bridge over the Dietrich River, the 1.25 mile long trek N along the Alaska oil pipeline service road is pure fun. Although it’s mostly cloudy out and sometimes sprinkles rain, Loop and SPHP barely even notice. Lupe has been expending so much energy, she plops herself down in the stream NW of Dillon Mountain to cool off as soon as she gets there. She emerges soaking wet, looking like this is the greatest day of her life!

At the stream that flows W to the Dietrich River from N of **Dillon Mountain** (R). Lupe also made it to the top of **Dillon Mountain** in 2016, another grand adventure! Photo looks SE.

Happy Lupe at one of her favorite spots in the Brooks Range.

*Hey, SPHP! Why don’t you build us a cabin in the woods somewhere around here? That way we can come and do this every day!*

The return trip along the Alaska oil pipeline is no less busy and fun. Lupe crisscrosses the service road umpteen times, dashing back and forth between excursions into the forests on each side. The glorious scenery includes views of Sukakpak Mountain and Dillon Mountain where Lupe had two of her greatest adventures ever in 2016.

Looking W from the Alaska oil pipeline service road.

Busy times near the Alaska oil pipeline.

Looking SW along the pipeline service road.

All too soon, Lupe is back at the Dietrich River. Loop’s 4th time on her 2016 Last Mile North adventure is about over. Before long she’s back at the G6, saying goodbye to Dillon Mountain. (1:43 PM, 52°F)

Back at the **Dietrich River**, Lupe’s 4th time on her 2016 Last Mile North adventure is nearly over. **Sukakpak Mountain** and the Dalton Highway bridge over the river are in view. The G6 is on the R. Photo looks S.

Back at the G6. Time to say goodbye to **Dillon Mountain** (Center). Photo looks E.

Only 6 or 7 miles S of the Dietrich River, Lupe and SPHP stop briefly again. A few minutes are spent bidding farewell to Sukakpak Mountain.

Looper bids farewell to **Sukakpak Mountain**. Photo looks NE.

Coldfoot is only 25 miles S of Sukakpak. SPHP stops by the restaurant hoping for another great buffet, like the wonderful breakfast buffet enjoyed here 4 or 5 days ago. It’s too late in the day for that. An enormous “standard” burger with fries for $10.95 isn’t a bad substitute, but Loop doesn’t come away with a buffet windfall like the one SPHP brought her from the Aurora Hotel yesterday morning.

After fueling up, Lupe and SPHP keep cruising S on the Dalton Highway. (3:35 PM) Loop sees Cathedral Mountain again 6 or 7 miles S of Coldfoot, but SPHP doesn’t stop until she’s all the way to the Arctic Circle. (5:01 PM, 51°F)

Six days after crossing it going N, the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood returns to the Arctic Circle.

5:51 PM, 50°F – Lupe’s last summit along the Dalton Highway is a trivial one. She makes the short 100 yard stroll E from the highway to the big cluster of rocks on top of Finger Mountain. SPHP gives her a needed boost. Caribou Mountain is in sight off to the WNW.

Lupe back up on **Finger Mountain**, her final ascent along the Dalton Highway. Not much of a climb, but she can see **Caribou Mountain** (L) in the distance. Photo looks WNW.

Looking NNW toward the broad **Kanuti River valley** from **Finger Mountain**.

The summit of **Caribou Mountain** (L) is in view directly beyond Loop. A week ago, Lupe and SPHP had been up there. Photo looks WNW with help from the telephoto lens.

Finger Mountain is a short, but worthwhile stop. However, Loopster’s journey S along the Dalton Highway soon continues. (6:09 PM) The last major landmark is the Yukon River. (7:11 PM, 57°F) A couple of dogs down by the river want to be friends with Lupe, but she’s having none of that. Although it’s a beautiful evening, with those dogs pestering her, it’s two photos and the Carolina Dog is ready to scram. (7:26 PM)

On the N bank of the mighty **Yukon River**. Photo looks S.

The **Yukon River** looks like a placid lake on this beautiful evening. Photo looks W.

S of the Yukon River, Lupe’s 2017 adventures along the Dalton Highway are nearing their end. Loop and SPHP have had a fabulous time. The scenic miles go by one after another. Suddenly, Loop and SPHP both see something they’ve never ever seen before. A big wildcat, a lynx, is near the edge of the highway!

The lynx hesitates 4 or 5 seconds. It had intended to cross the road, but changes its mind. As the G6 approaches, the lynx turns and slinks back into the forest. Lupe is all excited, but she won’t see the lynx again.

Ten minutes later, it’s all over. In two days, Lupe has traveled all 414 miles of the Dalton Highway from Deadhorse near Prudhoe Bay back to its start near Livengood. Eight days after leaving Fairbanks to come here, Lupe stands once again at the big sign marking the S end of the Dalton Highway. (8:59 PM, 50°F)

Back at the S end of the Dalton Highway. The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood spent 8 days along the Dalton Highway in 2017, 6 of them actually N of the Arctic Circle. Fabulous times that won’t soon be forgotten.

What tremendous fun it had all been! Climbing glorious mountains, dodging rain, snow and fog, feasting and starving, seeing sights few will ever see while this remote part of the world remains wild and unspoiled, all the way to the Arctic Ocean and back.

NW of Dillon Mountain, Brooks Range, Alaska 8-23-17

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

Lupe in the SCREE! – the Mountaineering Club of Alaska’s monthly newsletter & the story of Henry Pinkham

Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

The Alaskan North Slope Dingo – Deadhorse or Bust! (8-20-17)

Day 21 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

4:54 AM, 38°F, S bank of the Atigun River near the Dalton Highway bridge – Fog. Again. So what else was new? Despite fog, rain, and snow, Lupe had succeeded in climbing Lake Benchmark Mountain (5,000 ft.) yesterday. The day before that, she’d seen Galbraith lake and made it to the S edge of the North Slope beyond the Brooks Range, as far N as she had ever been in her life. So Loop had accomplished what had been planned here. Time to head S.

And yet the North Slope had been so enticing and mysterious! It would have been fun to go farther N, all the way to Deadhorse at the end of the Dalton Highway! Deadhorse was only a few miles from the Arctic Ocean and only another 140 miles or so from here. If there had been easy access to the ocean, Lupe would have gone for sure, despite the weather. An Arctic Ocean adventure, even a short one, would be so incredible! However, all along the coast and for several miles inland, energy companies maintain tight security. Although it was possible to take a paid tour from Deadhorse to the Arctic Ocean, SPHP already knew Dingoes weren’t allowed.

When Lupe had been in the Brooks Range last year, she had met several people who had gone all the way to Deadhorse, or were on their way there. Those who had already been there had reported seeing arctic foxes, snowy owls, caribou, and even musk oxen out on the North Slope. No one said anything favorable about Deadhorse, though. It was just an ugly industrial complex, not even a town, with nothing to do there.

No, without access to the Arctic Ocean for the Carolina Dog, and this foggy weather, it was hard to justify going any farther N. Lupe had lots more adventures planned elsewhere in Alaska. Best get on with it. SPHP fired up the G6, and Lupe was on her way S. The sky was completely overcast. Only a thin fog was present near ground level. Loop could see a mile or two to the base of the mountains. (5:15 AM)

Lupe along the Dalton Highway on her way S to Atigun Pass. Photo looks S.

The Atigun Pass area was darkly overcast. It was snowing, and the snow was beginning to stick. The mountains were white, where they could be seen through the fog. The Dalton Highway was slushy, but the G6 made it to the top of the pass. Lupe and SPHP got out to experience winter in August. (6:18 AM)

Loop at **Atigun Pass** in the **Brooks Range** for the second time in only a couple of days. This time she was heading S.

The weather was better S of Atigun Pass. Lupe stopped briefly at the Chandalar Shelf. The top of Table Mountain (6,314 ft.) was partly in view, and partly obscured by clouds. A fair amount of snow seemed to be present on what could be seen of the summit, but none existed below the final steep climb.

Heading down the S side of Atigun Pass. Photo looks SW.

The weather was somewhat better S of Atigun Pass. The sky wasn’t as darkly overcast and it wasn’t foggy out. Photo looks S while still on the way down from the pass.

Lupe still hadn’t climbed Table Mountain. Table Mountain was the only peak on her original list of objectives along the Dalton Highway for this Dingo Vacation that she hadn’t climbed yet. She was here plenty early in the day. Still, the weather looked pretty iffy. Not foggy, but still lots of clouds hanging around.

As much fun as Table Mountain might have been, after yesterday’s adventure in cold rain, snow, and fog up on Lake Benchmark Mountain, SPHP decided maybe Lupe would be smart to skip it. Conditions were marginal. The weather wouldn’t have to deteriorate much before Loop wouldn’t be able to see a thing up there, even if she did make it to the top. Sad, but true. Onward!

Beyond the Chandalar Shelf, down in the Dietrich River valley, the weather continued to improve. Lupe even saw patches of blue sky. It must have been somewhat sunny here over the past couple of days. The Dalton Highway was much drier now, a vast improvement. The G6 whizzed along at a lively 45 mph!

Lupe reached the Coldfoot visitor center at 9:00 AM. A sign said it was closed until 11:00 AM. Hmm. SPHP drove over to Coldfoot camp on the other side of the Dalton Highway. The American Dingo had to wait in the G6 while SPHP disappeared into the restaurant.

The wait was longer than Lupe expected. Coldfoot camp had a breakfast buffet going on. All you can eat for only $14.95, an absolute bargain way up here N of the Arctic Circle! SPHP ate an enormous breakfast – eggs, pancakes, muffins, sausage, bacon, ham, water, root beer, and coffee. It was great! More than hour after SPHP went in, Lupe got to enjoy a few pieces of smuggled out bacon.

SPHP gassed up the G6, another bargain at only $4.599 per gallon, and Loop was on her way again on the Dalton Highway.

Whoa, SPHP! Wrong way!

Nope! We’re fine, Loopster.

No, we’re not! You turned R, we’re going back N again!

Yeppers!

I thought we were going S. Aren’t we leaving the Arctic?

We were, but now we’re not.

Why not? Where are we going then?

It’s Deadhorse or bust, Loopster! I changed my mind. We can’t just leave! You’re going to go as far N as we can get. We’ve come all this way clear up to the Brooks Range two years running now. Just doesn’t feel right not to go all the way to the end of the Dalton Highway. We may never return. This may be our last chance. Whether we can see anything or not out on the North Slope, and whether or not you can get to the Arctic Ocean, we’re just going to do it.

Oh, exciting! I hope we see some caribou and musk ox on the North Slope! A polar bear would be totally awesome! Can I ask a favor, though?

Sure, what is it?

Since we’re going to go by it again, can we stop at the Dietrich River and go on my 2016 Last Mile North adventure by the Alaska oil pipeline again? I love that place!

Of course! That’s a great idea. We’ll do it, but maybe just to the stream N of Dillon Mountain instead of all the way to its confluence with the Dietrich River. I drove so far S before changing my mind that Deadhorse is a long way off now, and who knows what the road will be like N of the Brooks Range? I’m hoping we can still get to Deadhorse tonight.

Lupe did get to go on her 2016 Last Mile North adventure again! Even though she didn’t get to go all the way to the stream’s confluence with the Dietrich River, Loop had a blast! So easy, and so much fun!

Lupe at the stream that flows W from N of **Dillon Mountain (4,820 ft.)** (R). This was Lupe’s 3rd time now on her 2016 Last Mile North adventure, which has become a real favorite. Photo looks SE.

Then it was N again, on to the Chandalar Shelf. It was nearly 1:00 PM when Lupe arrived this time. Weather conditions hadn’t changed much since this morning. Once again SPHP deemed conditions too iffy, and now the hour too late, to seriously consider an ascent of Table Mountain.

Lupe returns to the **Chandalar Shelf**. She’s about 9 miles from Atigun Pass here. Photo looks ESE.

Looking S across the **Chandalar Shelf** toward **Table Mountain**. The top of the mountain is completely hidden in the clouds. SPHP again concluded conditions weren’t right for an ascent.

When Lupe went over Atigun Pass again, the weather was better than it had been early this morning. It was no longer snowing. The slushy snow on the Dalton Highway had melted. There were even patches of blue sky. The mountains were visible now, instead of cloaked with fog. They looked dramatic – all clean, cold and white.

Heading N again on the way to Atigun Pass from the Chandalar Shelf. Photo looks NE.

Lupe near the Dalton Highway N of Atigun Pass again.

The mountains of the **Brooks Range** looked clean, cold and white.

The better weather did not extend much beyond Atigun Pass. Soon the sky was totally overcast again. As Lupe followed the Atigun River N, the mountains were all hidden in clouds and fog.

Yesterday morning, Lupe had taken her Stroll to the North Slope Knoll, a short hike not far from milepost 278 of the Dalton Highway out onto the tundra. At the time, it had seemed likely to be as far N as Lupe was ever going to be in her whole life. Due to the current sudden change of plans, however, that was already no longer true. Still, the Stroll to the North Slope Knoll had been a fun experience. Why not repeat it before continuing N and setting a new record? Lupe was totally in favor of the idea. (2:33 PM, 41°F)

This time, SPHP went 500 feet beyond the endpoint of Lupe’s first Stroll to the North Slope Knoll. Lupe went even farther, racing 200 yards past SPHP out over the yellow tundra, sniffing and exploring as she went.

On her 2nd Stroll to the North Slope Knoll adventure, Lupe went even farther than she did yesterday morning. Photo looks NW.

The mood of Lupe’s second Stroll to the North Slope Knoll was entirely different. Instead of being the expected end of all her explorations N, this time it was merely a preliminary launching point. Lupe wasn’t going to have to turn around having seen only the very S end of the North Slope. From here, Lupe was going all the way to Deadhorse at the end of the Dalton Highway! Who knew what she might see along the way? It was all a grand mystery. A mystery about to be revealed.

This 2nd Stroll to the North Slope Knoll felt different. This time it was not the expected end of Lupe’s explorations N, but a launching point. This time it was Deadhorse or bust! An exciting new adventure was about to begin! Who knew what Lupe might see out on Alaska’s North Slope? It was all a mystery about to be revealed! Photo looks WNW.

When Lupe returned to the G6 at 3:20 PM, the adventures of the North Slope Dingo were about to begin in earnest. If the G6 was tough enough, only 136 more miles on the Dalton Highway would bring the American Dingo to its far N end at milepost 414 in Deadhorse. Though Lupe would never get to Alaska’s N coast due to security restrictions, the Carolina Dog would be only a few miles from the Arctic Ocean!

And so it began. Leaving the Stroll to the North Slope Knoll behind, Lupe and SPHP headed N on the Dalton Highway. The road was fine for a number of miles. Lupe soon saw Toolik Lake off to the W. The highway made a sharp turn to the E here.

The weather deteriorated. Mist and light rain. The Dalton Highway was full of mud puddles. The road went up and down over a series of hills. The most worrisome stretches were where the road was soft and muddy, but that wasn’t its most common condition. Far more often it was rough and washboardy, with long stretches of jarring potholes.

The G6 wasn’t built for this kind of abuse. The only defense against the rough road was to drive very slowly. That was OK. It didn’t actually matter how long it took the Carolina Dog to get to Deadhorse. The Dalton Highway went NE for a while before turning N again. A dozen miles from the Stroll to the North Slope Knoll, Lupe saw two seagulls!

4:14 PM, 110 to 115 miles from Deadhorse – The road has improved, no longer as rough and full of potholes as it had been going over the hills. To the W is a fairly high mountain, a lone one with its top lost in clouds and mist. It isn’t far from the Dalton Highway. If the weather was better, maybe Lupe could climb it? What can be seen of it certainly looks climbable. Remember this mountain for the return trip S!

Farther away off to the E and NE are lots more mountains, no doubt a continuation of the Brooks Range. However, there is no way to get over there. From the G6, Lupe has caught glimpses of a large river between the highway and those mountains to the E.

Lupe on the Dalton Highway 110-115 miles from Deadhorse. The rain and mist have finally let up, but it’s still a low ceiling day. Photo looks NE.

Oh, that looks like a fun, easy mountain to climb! No way to get over there, though. Lupe has caught glimpses of a large river between here and there from the G6. Photo looks SE.

4:40 PM, 105 miles from Deadhorse – Since leaving the Brooks Range, the Dalton Highway has only come to small streams. Up until now, that is. The large river Lupe caught glimpses of earlier is now only 300 to 600 feet E of the road. This must be the Sagavanirktok River. The Sag flows N all the way to Deadhorse, where it empties into the Beaufort Sea. It’s not yet a huge river. The Sagavanirktok is only slightly lower in elevation than the highway. The intervening ground appears quite swampy.

An industrial complex is on the W side of the highway, presumably some sort of pumping or maintenance station for the Alaska oil pipeline.

The **Sagavanirktok River** flows N near the Dalton Highway on its way to Deadhorse and the Beaufort Sea. Photo looks N.

Although most of the North Slope appeared to be as yet almost totally unspoiled, every so often Lupe came to industrial areas like this one. They were almost certainly somehow connected with maintenance or operation of the Alaska oil pipeline. Photo looks SW.

Looking back toward some of the foothills of the **Brooks Range**. Photo looks S.

5:05 PM – Lupe has a great view of the Sagavanirktok River, Alaska oil pipeline, and Dalton Highway from Oil Spill Hill. The road subsequently drops down into the river valley for several miles before climbing back out of it at Ice Cut.

Once the **Sagavanirktok River** gets close to the Dalton Highway, the river parallels the road the rest of the way to Deadhorse. However, it’s not always in view like this. Photo looks NE.

Although Lupe watched for wildlife along the **Sagavanirktok River** for a long time, she never saw anything other than birds. That was disappointing. A musk ox would have been really cool! Photo looks NE.

5:15 PM, 90 miles to Deadhorse – Now that the Dalton Highway is up out of the Sagavanirktok River valley N of Ice Cut, the river is out of sight. The North Slope is a golden rolling featureless land stretching as far as one can see to low hills on the horizon. Larger hills are off to the E beyond the Alaska oil pipeline, but the Brooks Range is no longer in view. To the W there is nothing except a distant tower on a gentle rise.

The North Slope Dingo seems to have lost hope of seeing any wildlife in this barren land. She’s taken to snoozing.

The **North Slope** about 90 miles from Deadhorse. Golden boreal tundra stretches to low hills on the horizon. A lone tower (L) sits atop a gentle rise. Photo looks WNW with help from the telephoto lens.

80 miles from Deadhorse – Widely scattered patches of sunlight appear on the yellow tundra. A few patches of blue sky exist. The clouds are low, but apparently not that thick.

The North Slope Dingo is awake again, but still has seen no animals. The reason is becoming increasingly clear. For many miles, pickup trucks have often been in view parked along the access roads to the Alaska oil pipeline, especially near the Sagavanirktok River. People are sometimes seen nearby. They often wear at least some orange. Hunters! No wonder whatever wildlife exists has fled beyond vision. Sad.

76 miles from Deadhorse – Pavement! The first pavement since S of the Atigun River 75 miles ago. A nice 6 or 7 mile stretch, then it’s back to mud and gravel.

6:00 PM, 45°F, 67 miles from Deadhorse – The Sagavanirktok River, which has only occasionally been visible from the Dalton Highway, now curves away to the NE flowing along the base of a line of low bluffs that has been in view for miles. The bluffs had been bathed in sunlight, but by the time the North Slope Dingo arrives for a photo, the light is past its best. Minutes later it is gone.

67 miles from Deadhorse, the **Sagavanirktok River** curves away to the NE flowing along the base of a line of low bluffs. Photo looks NE.

6:20 PM, 62 miles from Deadhorse – The North Slope Dingo stops at a rare pullout about 0.25 mile N of the top of a big, very gently sloping hill. The river is nowhere in sight here, but a faint rainbow is off to the NE. The boreal tundra is a yellow patchwork of sunlight and fog. As clouds and fog drift by, patterns of light and shadow move W to E across a golden land sliding away to the N. Overhead a patch of blue sky sails by.

No traffic at all lately. Even the hunters don’t seem to be out and about.

62 miles from Deadhorse, the North Slope Dingo spied this faint rainbow. Photo looks ENE.

The boreal tundra is a patchwork of sunlight and shadow as low clouds, fog, and bits of blue sky drift by. Photo looks NNE.

Same view with a little help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks NNE.

Almost immediately after leaving the faint rainbow and partially sunlit tundra behind, SPHP drives into rain and fog. A few minutes later, the Dalton Highway is paved again, but this time only for a couple of miles. Then it’s back to the usual mud and gravel. 4 or 5 miles later, a sign says road work next 51 miles, basically the rest of the way to Deadhorse. Get stopped by a flagman who says it’s a 20 minute wait.

The flagman has been working here every day since June 9th. $30/hr base pay and $45/hr overtime. Most days are 13 hours, and some are as many as 16. He has seen caribou, musk oxen, wolves, grizzly and polar bears, and lots of birds. Lupe will only have to follow the pilot car for 14 miles. The G6 is the only vehicle following the pilot car once it arrives. The pilot car races along the muddy road at 40 mph.

7:38 PM, 30 to 35 miles from Deadhorse – No traffic at all. The land is very flat. A 2 tiered bluff exists a mile to the E. To the W, nothing but a tiny hill in otherwise level terrain. 6 geese are flying S.

30 to 35 miles from Deadhorse the Dalton Highway is damp, but in good shape. The terrain is like a pancake. Photo looks N.

A mile E of the highway is a 2 tiered bluff. Photo looks ENE.

8:17 PM, 42°F, 15 to 17 miles from Deadhorse – Saw the sun’s position through a weak spot in the clouds about 15 minutes ago. The sun won’t set for another 2.5 hours yet. For the past 10 miles, the Dalton Highway has been on a roadbed raised 15 feet above the surrounding terrain. The terrain is even flatter than before. Most of it appears to be part of a vast swamp, with occasional stretches of open water.

The Sagavanirktok River was briefly in view again lurking near the base of the 2 tier bluff. That bluff ran for miles along the same course before coming to an end. A single tier bluff then picked up again a mile ENE of the highway close to where the 2 tier bluff faded away. It also runs for miles. The bluff is now several miles from the Dalton Highway, hidden by fog.

The sky is uniformly gray. Visibility is only a mile or two. Lupe saw a couple of small buttes off to the W looking like ghosts on the horizon. They didn’t amount to much.

15 to 17 miles from Deadhorse. The Dalton Highway is on a raised roadbed about 15 feet above the surrounding swampy terrain. A fairly large stretch of open water is seen beyond Loop. Photo looks NE.

The Dalton Highway remains on a raised roadbed like this the rest of the way to Deadhorse. The North Slope Dingo was now assured of getting there! Photo looks N.

8:54 PM – Success! It’s like a dream. The North Slope Dingo has made it to the outskirts of Deadhorse. The end of the Dalton Highway is only a couple of miles farther. Lupe is what, maybe 8 miles S of Prudhoe Bay?

Deadhorse is as others have described it to SPHP – an industrial complex almost exclusively dedicated to the energy industry. Nothing resembling a town is in sight. Not a single house or residential street. No business district catering to the public.

The closest thing to a retail business is Deadhorse Camp, which Loop finds near the start of Deadhorse on the L. It’s a hotel of sorts, catering mostly to oilfield workers who essentially live there, but also to members of the public who manage to make it to the end of the Dalton Highway. It’s also where it’s possible to arrange for a shuttle bus tour to the Arctic Ocean.

Success! The North Slope Dingo arrives on the outskirts of **Deadhorse**. As expected, everything in sight has an industrial look to it. No sign of any traditional town at all.

**Deadhorse** is 99% about the energy business and producing oil for the Alaska oil pipeline, which starts here.

One unexpected thing about **Deadhorse** and the energy industry it serves was how spread out it all was. Wide areas of swamp and tundra separate numerous far flung industrial installations.

Geese like to hang out around the Deadhorse Camp building.

Oh, yeah! Here’s proof that the North Slope Dingo made it all the way to **Deadhorse.** Lupe stands outside the Deadhorse Camp building, located on the L side of the Dalton Highway shortly after reaching Deadhorse. This is one of several “hotels” in Deadhorse. They all have a similar appearance. Some only accommodate oilfield workers.

Even though SPHP had been told on the phone before Lupe ever left home that Dingoes aren’t allowed to take the Arctic Ocean tour, SPHP was still planning on asking again for Lupe. Maybe it was still possible with enough in-person groveling or bribery?

The Arctic Ocean shuttle! That was what Loop wanted to take. If she was refused, she would have to send SPHP as her personal representative.

Now that the North Slope Dingo was in Deadhorse, SPHP wasn’t certain exactly what to do. Looking for a gas station seemed like a good place to start. From Deadhorse Camp, SPHP drove farther into Deadhorse. After a couple of bends, the Dalton Highway finally ended at a T intersection. SPHP took a left and eventually stumbled upon the Prudhoe Bay Hotel near the Alaska Airlines terminal at the Deadhorse Airport.

Unused drilling rigs stand lined up across a lake in Deadhorse.

Alaska Airlines seems to be the only airline serving the Deadhorse airport. The terminal was closed when Loop arrived on a Sunday night.

While Lupe remained in the G6, SPHP went into the Prudhoe Bay Hotel seeking information. Signs in the entryway commanded that everyone entering wear disposable boot covers to help keep the place clean. Free, bright blue slip-on boot covers were available from a box. SPHP put a pair on, then went on in.

Long well lit hallways led off in 3 directions. Not a soul was in sight. The front desk turned out to be some distance down the hall straight ahead from the entrance. A clerk gave SPHP a free map of Deadhorse on a single sheet of paper, and circled where the 2 gas stations are located. After thanking the clerk, SPHP wandered the hallways.

A large map of Alaska’s N coast was framed under glass on one wall. It showed the locations of numerous energy installations, and the names of a great many geographical features. Lots of history was provided on who first explored the Alaskan coast and named various islands, points, peninsulas, etc. The map was extraordinarily interesting. SPHP read much of it, which took a while. Meanwhile, absolutely no one came or went in the silent hall.

Light was fading when SPHP returned to Loop, still waiting patiently in the G6. It was starting to get foggy. One of the gas stations was close by. It was a small unmanned facility. SPHP couldn’t even figure out how to work it. Splendid. Oh, well. Can figure it out tomorrow.

Loop and SPHP drove around Deadhorse a bit. There weren’t many roads, yet it seemed like a maze. In growing darkness and gloomy fog, the whole place was sort of eerie. Almost no traffic at all. Now and then a pickup truck or semi truck appeared, then vanished. No one was out and about. Deadhorse was sort of a ghost town, but then it was late on a Sunday night and energy prices were depressed. Maybe like Skagway, Deadhorse would be busier Monday morning?

Lupe and SPHP drove past clusters of energy related service businesses. They were all dark, except for security lights. Widely scattered in the distance were more clusters of buildings, some quite brightly lit. No houses, no businesses of any kind other than energy related companies and a few boxy “hotels”. Weird, kind of creepy, but cool, too.

Returning to the Dalton Highway, SPHP drove back to within sight of Deadhorse Camp. Several pickup trucks with campers were parked at big pullouts overlooking the Sagavanirktok River. Even a few tents were pitched out on the gravel. Apparently it was OK to stay here. Perfect! This would do nicely. SPHP parked the G6. Tomorrow Loopster would explore Deadhorse. SPHP hoped the North Slope Dingo could even get permission to see the Arctic Ocean, but she probably wouldn’t.

Couldn’t hurt to try, though, could it?Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.