Part 2 of Day 29, and Days 30 & 31 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!
8-27-22, 5:30 PM – Following the pilot car for miles through fog and rain, the Dalton Highway was a hideous, sloppy mess. Despite the wretched conditions, a multitude of heavy equipment was active. One huge truck after another brought giant loads of coarse gravel destined to help build up the roadbed. SPHP cringed every time one passed by in the opposite direction slinging mud and rocks.
Our poor, RAV4, SPHP! It’s only a year old, and taking a beating!
I know, Loop. Nothing I can do about it. Only supposed to be 16 miles of this nonsense. Ought to get to the end of it any day now.
Approaching Slope Mountain (4,010 ft.) a break finally appeared in the clouds. Partially draped with fog, and partly in sunshine, the mountain was more dramatic than SPHP remembered. Despite watching for the place where the G6 had been parked back in 2017 when Lupe climbed Slope Mountain, SPHP never saw it.
Back into the rain and fog, the RAV4 was well beyond Slope Mountain by the time the road construction came to an end.
8-27-22, 6:20 PM – A long, threatening growl, then pandemonium in the RAV4, as the American Dingo burst into a foaming-at-the-mouth frenzy!
Woolly cows, SPHP! Aren’t they supposed to be extinct? There’s a whole herd of them in the ditch!
Woolly cows? Those aren’t woolly cows, Loop, they’re musk oxen!
Musk oxen? You’ve mentioned them before, SPHP, but I’ve never seen any until now. Never knew what they looked like.
Well, musk oxen aren’t such a common sight, Loopster. You did see one once in Banff, but you probably don’t remember it. Anyway, I can’t believe we went all the way to Imnavait Mountain (3,702 ft.) and never saw any wildlife other than a few birds and a vole, and now here’s a dozen musk oxen right next to the Dalton Highway!
SPHP pulled the RAV4 over by the side of the highway to watch the musk oxen, but Lupe was so frantic and loud that the whole herd soon began ambling away in search of more peaceful surroundings.
Getting to see musk oxen for the first time ever, however briefly, was awesome! Once they left, though, the question soon became where to spend the night, since it was getting on toward evening.
8-27-22, Happy Valley, Dalton Highway MP 334 – The sky was heavily overcast when SPHP pulled into a giant gravel parking lot. Supposed to be room to camp here, plus access to the Sagavanirktok River. Correct on both counts! The river was dead ahead, and there was space enough for countless vehicles, although only a few were in sight.
Various small buildings, a cluster of campers, and another of old mobile homes were strung out along the perimeter of the huge lot. The largest building was bright yellow and up on blocks. A sign with a big yellow smiley face and a red arrow said “Happy Valley Camp Entrance”.
After SPHP parked the RAV4 near tall yellow bushes on the opposite side of the lot, Lupe went over to investigate. No one around.
Huh. I don’t know, Looper. Kind of a strange place.
Returning to the RAV4, Lupe hopped back up onto her pink blanket. SPHP was getting ready to heat something up for dinner when a young man and a black dog came this way from somewhere over by the river.
Kyle was 23 years old, and had been manager of the Happy Valley Camp for 5 years. Earlier this year he had bought out the 99 year lease held by the former owner, who apparently wanted out after 2 disastrous years when Covid-19 had completely killed business.
Happy Valley Camp had a total of 40 rooms that Kyle rented out during the summer to oilfield professionals and truckers, plus a cook he’d hired that provided meals for them, but not to the general public. Kyle also sold aviation fuel to the airstrip operation, which he did not control. Fortunately, business was much better this year.
Already twice Lupe’s size, Otis was a black lab puppy only 3 months old with gigantic paws. Otis was ready to leap right into the RAV4, and join Lupe on her next adventure, but the Carolina Dog was decidedly cool to the notion. Otis had to settle for a Dingo stick provided by SPHP, which he seemed perfectly happy with.
Kyle said it was fine to park here overnight at no charge. He’d already shut Happy Valley Camp down for the season. He and Otis would soon be leaving for Anchorage. Winter is coming! Kyle said. Felt like it, too, at dusk in the gloom of the cold, damp fog. Still August, but summer was long gone. Already late fall here.
Kyle and Otis eventually left for the bright yellow building. SPHP heated up a can of chili, but for some reason, Lupe didn’t want any. She did have a few Ritz crackers before settling in for the night.
8-28-22, 9:33 AM, Happy Valley, Dalton Highway MP 334 –
Fog, rain, or mist! We certainly have our choice of weather here, SPHP!
So it seems, Looper. Shall we check out the Sagavanirktok River before we move on? We’ll be heading out soon.
Wandering over that way, the Sag was as gray and murky as the sky.
Kyle had said that fishing was good on the Sagavanirktok, but Lupe didn’t see any jump. As quiet as things were with the camp closed, a stroll over to the airstrip didn’t reveal much of interest except a display with some posters about the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge.
8-28-22, 10:23 AM, Dalton Highway – Back on the road again! Devouring last night’s scorned chili with apparent relish, the American Dingo then kept a keen eye out for any more woolly cows.
Following the Sagavanirktok River N, the Dalton Highway was wet, but in good shape. A few miles N of Happy Valley, there was a 10 mile long stretch that was chip sealed, the first pavement since way back at MP 210 a little N of Dillon Mountain (4,820 ft.).
How far to Deadhorse, SPHP?
80 miles from Happy Valley, Looper. Be there by noon. Uh-oh! Dang it!
Uh-oh? What’s uh-oh, SPHP?
RAV4 got nailed by those gravel trucks in the road construction yesterday, Loop. Just noticed a crack in the lower L corner of the windshield. Shoot! Thought we’d somehow gotten lucky, and made it through that gauntlet unscathed. If I’d driven even an inch farther R, all the RAV4 would have suffered was a little chipped paint.
Oh, I see it. That’s a tiny crack, SPHP. Doesn’t hurt anything.
Yeah, fine for now, but it’ll spread. Going to need a whole new windshield at some point. Guess it’s just a risk we take coming up here, Loopster. Nothing to be done about it.
The only other time Lupe had been to Deadhorse back in 2017, the last 54 miles of the Dalton Highway had all been under construction. What a difference! Today it was all beautifully paved – striped and everything!
Wow! This is awesome! Cruising in style now, Looper!
Hey, SPHP! Isn’t that a pingo way off to the L?
Oh, I bet your right, Loop! A pretty big one, too. Let’s stop real quick for a look. Haven’t seen a pingo since we were in Tuktoyaktuk!
8-28-22, 11:48 AM, 42ºF, Dalton Highway MP 414, Deadhorse – On this damp, gray day, Lupe stood at a “T” intersection with Lake Colleen in view beyond her for the first time in 5 years.
Congratulations, Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood! You’ve made it back to the N end of the Dalton Highway!
Thank you, SPHP! Been a while, hasn’t it? To make it completely official, though, shouldn’t we go to the Prudhoe Bay General Store over by Brooks Camp?
Precisely the plan, Looper.
After posing by the “Welcome to the End of the Dalton Highway” sign at the Prudhoe Bay General Store, the Carolina Dog sauntered over for a look at the nearby Crazy Horse Industrial Pad.
Fueling up the RAV4 was the next priority. They were proud of their fuel at the Colville Gas Station. SPHP was just happy that there was gasoline available. Fortunately, the RAV4 wasn’t too thirsty.
What now, SPHP? Our traditional Deadhorse industrial tour?
If you can call twice a tradition already, Loop, but first, since we’re back to civilization again, how about something to eat? I’ll bring you something from the buffet at The Aurora, if you like.
Sounds good, SPHP! If they’ve got any barbecued beef ribs like at Coldfoot Camp, bring me some of those.
I’ll see what I can do, Loopster.
8-28-22, 12:35 PM, at the Aurora Hotel in Deadhorse – The lunch buffet was only $18.00, tax included. A fabulous deal, but apparently they eat lunch early in the oil patch. The beautiful, spacious dining room was empty, and SPHP alone at the buffet.
Sadly, no barbecued beef ribs for Lupe, but there was lots of other great stuff to choose from. SPHP loaded up a big tray, then sat by one of the huge picture windows with a view of Lake Colleen.
It was all delicious! Only the fact that they began tearing the buffet down at 1:00 PM sharp kept SPHP from being a tremendous glutton.
Took long enough, SPHP! What did you bring me? Lots of scrumptious ribs, I hope!
No ribs, I’m afraid, Loop, but look at this! Got a few things I think you’ll enjoy during our Deadhorse industrial tour this afternoon.
The Carolina Dog’s eyes grew big as SPHP opened a Styrofoam doggie box full of ham, cheese, and roast beef.
8-28-22, 1:54 PM – An industrial camp serving the Prudhoe Bay oilfields near the Arctic Ocean, Deadhorse has no business district, virtually no shopping, and no private homes. Touring Deadhorse meant touring all kinds of industrial establishments offering oilfield supplies, equipment, or services, and going by the few hotels where the workers live.
Deadhorse isn’t everyone’s cup of tea. When Loopster first visited the Brooks Range in 2016, quite a few people described Alaska’s North Slope as boring, and Deadhorse as just an ugly industrial place. Not worth the time and expense to get here!
Having worked in heavy industry, SPHP felt differently. Deadhorse, and its demanding jobs in such a remote, harsh climate, seemed more like an exciting opportunity and adventure.
Lupe shared some of SPHP’s enthusiasm for the North Slope, but wasn’t all that keen on the industrial side of Deadhorse, although she willingly participated in today’s tour between tasty tidbits from The Aurora.
SPHP drove every road open to the public in Deadhorse, including the one that went all the way around Lake Colleen.
For the most part, Deadhorse looked remarkably similar to how it had been during Lupe’s 2017 visit, but there were some changes. The Alaska Airlines terminal at the airport seemed to be closed. The Prudhoe Bay Hotel across the street was closed, too.
These days, all the action at the airport seemed to be originating over at the Deadhorse Aviation Center down the street from the Alaska Airlines terminal, but SPHP didn’t go inside to find out if that was really the case.
There aren’t that many streets in Deadhorse. Even at a leisurely pace, Lupe’s industrial tour took only a little over an hour.
8-28-22, 3:04 PM, Deadhorse –
Happy, SPHP? Is the industrial tour over?
Yes. Enjoyed seeing it all again, Loopster. Thanks for being a good sport!
Great! Can we get to the fun stuff then, and visit the Sagavanirktok River?
Pretty soon. I want to check on tours available at Deadhorse Camp, first.
You already did the Arctic Ocean tour as my personal representative in 2017, SPHP.
Yeah, I know, but I’d like to see what else they might have to offer.
The Sagivanirktok River was right along the Dalton Highway on the way into Deadhorse. Deadhorse Camp was, too. One of the first buildings on the L entering Deadhorse, it used to be a sickly yellow, but was now sporting brand new dark red siding.
8-28-22, 3:17 PM, Deadhorse Camp – Took SPHP a few minutes to realize that the entrance stairway had been switched to the opposite end of the building since Lupe had last been here. The American Dingo waited in the RAV4 while SPHP went inside.
So what did they say, SPHP? Did you sign up for a tour?
The only tour they can book here in Deadhorse is the same Arctic Ocean tour I went on in 2017.
Oh, too bad, SPHP! Can we go to the Sagavanirktok River now?
Sure, for a while, Loop. Have to report back here between 5:00 and 6:00 PM. They should have an answer back by then on whether I pass muster on the security check they’re running on me.
What? You’re taking the Arctic Ocean tour again, SPHP?
Yup! Why not? How often are we ever going to be this close to the Arctic Ocean, anyway? The price is still only $69.00! Hasn’t changed since 2017, so a super bargain. Besides, I’ve got unfinished business with this tour.
What kind of unfinished business, SPHP?
Last time it never even occurred to me that I could go swimming in the Arctic Ocean. We were already there when I realized what the stack of white towels that were in the bus were for. I wasn’t prepared, and had to settle for just wading in the ocean. This time, I’m going to swim in the Arctic Ocean, Looper!
And I suppose I still get left out, aye, SPHP? Still no Dingoes allowed on the tour?
Afraid so, Loopster. Back to being your personal representative again. I did ask, and told them you wouldn’t be any trouble at all, but they said no.
8-28-22, 4:00 PM – The mood at the Sagavanirktok River was completely different from what it had been in 2017. Back then there’d been a little sunshine, the sky only partly cloudy. A small crowd was present. People in wet suits had been tubing down the river, and some optimistic soul had spent a frustrating hour trying to fly a green kite despite an almost non-existent breeze. The atmosphere had been rather festive.
Except for a lone pickup truck with a green camper, no one was around today. Although no longer raining or misting, the sky was completely overcast.
Lupe still spent a wonderful late afternoon along the Sagivanirktok River. Some sort of unseen marmots or Arctic prairie dogs were living in holes in the tundra. One in particular inhabited a 40 foot long steel pipe that had a 3rd hole in it 10 feet from the river end.
Perfectly safe in its steel fortress, the marmot squeaked enticingly from within, as Lupe frantically tried to dig out the entire pipe, doomed to failure from the start. None of that mattered to the determined Dingo. Although SPHP managed to divert her attention with walks along the river, Lupe always insisted on returning to her pipeline excavation.
Upstream the river was well contained by a steep bank where occasional piers of rock extended partway out into the main channel. Downstream, there was more opportunity to explore the water’s edge. At this time of year, the Sag was low with lots of exposed river bottom to sniff.
8-28-22, 4:47 PM – A group of ptarmigans were in the parking lot when SPHP parked the RAV4 at Deadhorse Camp again. Despite arriving a bit earlier than told to, they already had an answer back. Once again, the United States was willing to take a chance on letting SPHP ride the Arctic Ocean tour bus. Dingoes were still too big a threat to national security.
Probably think you’re an Australian spy, Looper.
Not buying that I’m an American Dingo, aye? You should have told them that I was a Carolina Dog, SPHP!
In any case, the die was cast. SPHP was booked on the tour leaving at 8:30 AM tomorrow morning. After leaving Deadhorse Camp, Lupe got to spend the rest of the evening along the Sagavanirktok River. Even the green camper was long gone.
8-29-22, the wee hours, Sagavanirktok River – 41ºF, but the night seemed cold, raw, and damp. The lights of Deadhorse were beautiful in the fog. SPHP couldn’t sleep with the impending test of sanity and self-discipline only hours away. Swim in the Arctic Ocean? Inconceivable! The shame of chickening out wasn’t exactly a grand prospect, either. Under cover of darkness, SPHP changed into a bathing suit before bundling up again.
8-29-22, 5:18 AM, Sagavanirktok River – Starting to get light out. Lupe wanted out of the RAV4 to sniff the morning air. Still foggy. During the short drive to The Aurora a few minutes later, she had some Taste of the Wild from her silver bowl.
The breakfast buffet was going great guns at this hour. SPHP enjoyed a very hearty meal. Still only $15.00. Same price as in 2017. What a steal!
Bring me anything, SPHP?
You know I did, Loopster! You can munch on it while we take a last spin around Lake Colleen.
Bacon and sausage patties! Another fantastic tour of Lake Colleen!
Back at the Sagavanirktok River, there was no sky, only fog, but Lupe could see the river. A bird that looked part duck, part loon was floating by. This bird had a disturbingly strange cry like a cat in distress – mew, mew, mew! Other ducks responded, paddling over to it, but the catbird wasn’t actually hurt. Another bird of the same type with the same cry soon flew off in apparently perfect health.
8-29-22, 7:34 AM, Deadhorse Camp, 40ºF – Tyler, a young man, verified that SPHP was on the Arctic Ocean tour list, then accepted the required $69.00, which SPHP paid in cash. Molly, who also worked here, said she wanted to meet Lupe when the tour was over. She missed her dog.
Tyler turned out to be the tour guide and shuttle bus driver. After a short wait while others arrived, everyone boarded the bus. Lupe, of course, had to stay in the RAV4. 7 people were on the tour, including SPHP. A lively group, they made it fun, peppering Tyler with questions during the drive through the oilfields.
To SPHP, the most interesting comment Tyler made was that the Alaska oil pipeline now only carries about 300,000 barrels of oil per day, an 85% decrease from its heyday when 2,000,000 barrels was normal.
8-29-22, 8:47 AM, Arctic Ocean at Prudhoe Bay – Although visibly eroded, the spit of gravelly land next to where Tyler parked the shuttle bus was instantly recognized by SPHP. This was the exact same place where the 2017 Arctic Ocean tour had wound up.
Tyler referred to this spit as a “dock” that had been built on barrels still rusting away at its far end.
The moment of truth was at paw! Proceeding without hesitation, SPHP was not alone stripping down to a swimsuit.
Can’t think about this, or it will never happen! SPHP was first, leading the way into the Arctic Ocean. The ocean was shallow. It was quite a trek out to where it was finally mid-thigh.
C’ya all! I’m swimming to Russia!
Plunging in, SPHP completely submerged, getting a taste of salt water in the process. The swim to Russia had scarcely begun, when SPHP shot out of the water with one great whoop, then proceeded to wade back into shore, clutching a souvenier rock torn from the ocean floor. The rock was a perfectly ordinary, rounded, greenish stone, but it would do. SPHP hadn’t the slightest intention of seeking out a better one.
At least 2 other tour members also swam, however briefly, in the Arctic Ocean. All but one at least waded in a ways. Everyone was laughing and talking about how great it was! A couple from Colombia hugged with joy at having made it all this way. It really was a great moment, a landmark in time. SPHP’s only regret was that Lupe wasn’t there, too.
Tyler passed out white towels from a cardboard box. Took a little while before everyone was dried off and adequately layered up again.
On the way back to Deadhorse Camp, a red fox was spotted roaming the oil patch. There’d been foxes during the 2017 Arctic Ocean tour, too.
Upon reaching Deadhorse Camp, Tyler passed out an “Arctic Polar Bear Club Certificate of Membership for braving the icy waters of the Arctic Ocean at Prudhoe Bay, Alaska!” to everyone on the tour who had dared stick a toe in the water. Dated August 29, 2022, it was personally signed by Tyler making it all official.
Molly came out to meet and pet Lupe at the RAV4, too. Lupe was happy with all the attention Molly gave her, and joined SPHP during good-byes and bon voyages with fellow tour members.
So, how did it go, SPHP? Glad you’re here, but I wasn’t expecting you back quite this soon. What was Russia like?
Experienced a sudden change of heart about swimming to Russia shortly after plunging in, Loop. Never actually got there.
Well, as my personal representative, you did at least go swimming in the Arctic Ocean for me, didn’t you?
Oh, yes! Yes, I did, Loopster! For quite a few nanoseconds. A good dozen or more, I’d say.
That isn’t very long is it, SPHP? I can hardly go around boasting that the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood’s personal representative swam in the Arctic Ocean for 12 nanoseconds, can I?
I suppose not, Loop, but that’s a good thing!
Oh, really? In what way, SPHP?
Now we’ve got a reason to come back to Deadhorse again! Next time I can work on my Arctic Ocean swimming endurance for you. Pretty sure I can shatter today’s record.
8-29-22, 10:34 AM, Sagavanirktok River – SPHP had another walk along the Sag in mind, but didn’t get far. Lupe had other ideas, preferring to stick her nose down Arctic prairie dog holes instead. That was OK, it was her turn for fun. SPHP enjoyed watching her enthusiasm, and admiring the mighty Sag, as gray as the sky.
8-29-22, 11:42 AM, 43ºF – 24 hours after arriving, still in a gray fog, Lupe left Deadhorse on the beautiful 54 mile long new stretch of the Dalton Highway. Before departure there’d been one more visit to the Prudhoe Bay General Store near Brooks Camp so SPHP could buy a few souvenirs in addition to the green rock plucked from the Arctic Ocean for Lupe’s rock collection.
The fog lifted. Vast regions of golden tundra were in view. Although many adventures were still ahead, there was a sadness to heading S again. SPHP couldn’t shake the feeling that an epic journey had reached its climax back along the foggy Sagavanirktok River in Deadhorse.
The sadness only got worse when Lupe spotted a lone caribou. Soon 8 were seen on a hillside, but bow hunters in camouflage appeared ready to slaughter them. Terrible!
Passing Happy Valley, it’s bright yellow headquarters could be seen from the highway, and it did seem a more cheerful place. No doubt Kyle and Otis were still there for a few more days, busy winterizing the facilities.
Another herd of musk oxen was a special treat. Grazing quite a long way from the highway over by the Sagavanirktok River, they were too far off to inspire the same frenzied reaction from the Carolina Dog that the ones in the ditch had 2 days ago.
SPHP was disappointed when both Slope Mountain (4,010 ft.) and Imnavait Mountain (3,702 ft.) turned out to be hidden by clouds. Only their lower slopes were in view.
Approaching Galbraith Lake near the N edge of the Brooks Range, the Dalton Highway was dry for the first time in days. A fair amount of blue sky was around, too.
Galbraith Lake seems to be the only dry spot in the entire Brooks Range and North Slope! Want to stay at the campground again, Loop?
8-29-22, 4:15 PM, Galbraith Lake Campground, Dalton Highway MP 275 – The American Dingo was all for that idea! And why not? It was already a favorite spot. Lupe spent much of the evening having a blast exploring the tundra W of the campground.
Lupe had been here 4 nights ago. SPHP noticed a certain chill in the air, and that the fall colors were no longer quite as brilliant as they had been so recently. Yet if this weather would hold, the American Dingo was in for another incredible Brooks Range adventure tomorrow.
Unfortunately, after wandering until distant lights were visible over by the Galbraith airstrip and on the Dalton Highway, this peaceful evening out on the tundra ended with the mountains all hidden by clouds and fog moving in. A sad thought – maybe this was it for the Brooks Range, after all? (11:15 PM)
Links:
Next Adventure Prior Adventure
Deadhorse, Alaska – The Arctic Ocean Tour & Sagavanirktok River Walk (8-21-17)
Arctic Ocean Shuttle Tour from Deadhorse Camp
BLM Dalton Highway Visitor Guide
Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacations to Wyoming, Canada & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.