Sagavanirktok River – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Happy Valley, Deadhorse & The Arctic Ocean Tour (8-27-22 to 8-29-22)

Part 2 of Day 29, and Days 30 & 31 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

8-27-22, 5:30 PM – Following the pilot car for miles through fog and rain, the Dalton Highway was a hideous, sloppy mess. Despite the wretched conditions, a multitude of heavy equipment was active. One huge truck after another brought giant loads of coarse gravel destined to help build up the roadbed. SPHP cringed every time one passed by in the opposite direction slinging mud and rocks.

Our poor, RAV4, SPHP! It’s only a year old, and taking a beating!

I know, Loop. Nothing I can do about it. Only supposed to be 16 miles of this nonsense. Ought to get to the end of it any day now.

Approaching Slope Mountain (4,010 ft.) a break finally appeared in the clouds. Partially draped with fog, and partly in sunshine, the mountain was more dramatic than SPHP remembered. Despite watching for the place where the G6 had been parked back in 2017 when Lupe climbed Slope Mountain, SPHP never saw it.

Back into the rain and fog, the RAV4 was well beyond Slope Mountain by the time the road construction came to an end.

8-27-22, 6:20 PM – A long, threatening growl, then pandemonium in the RAV4, as the American Dingo burst into a foaming-at-the-mouth frenzy!

Woolly cows, SPHP! Aren’t they supposed to be extinct? There’s a whole herd of them in the ditch!

Woolly cows? Those aren’t woolly cows, Loop, they’re musk oxen!

Musk oxen? You’ve mentioned them before, SPHP, but I’ve never seen any until now. Never knew what they looked like.

Well, musk oxen aren’t such a common sight, Loopster. You did see one once in Banff, but you probably don’t remember it. Anyway, I can’t believe we went all the way to Imnavait Mountain (3,702 ft.) and never saw any wildlife other than a few birds and a vole, and now here’s a dozen musk oxen right next to the Dalton Highway!

SPHP pulled the RAV4 over by the side of the highway to watch the musk oxen, but Lupe was so frantic and loud that the whole herd soon began ambling away in search of more peaceful surroundings.

Getting to see musk oxen for the first time ever, however briefly, was awesome! Once they left, though, the question soon became where to spend the night, since it was getting on toward evening.

8-27-22, Happy Valley, Dalton Highway MP 334 – The sky was heavily overcast when SPHP pulled into a giant gravel parking lot. Supposed to be room to camp here, plus access to the Sagavanirktok River. Correct on both counts! The river was dead ahead, and there was space enough for countless vehicles, although only a few were in sight.

Various small buildings, a cluster of campers, and another of old mobile homes were strung out along the perimeter of the huge lot. The largest building was bright yellow and up on blocks. A sign with a big yellow smiley face and a red arrow said “Happy Valley Camp Entrance”.

After SPHP parked the RAV4 near tall yellow bushes on the opposite side of the lot, Lupe went over to investigate. No one around.

At the enormous **Happy Valley parking lot**.

Huh. I don’t know, Looper. Kind of a strange place.

Returning to the RAV4, Lupe hopped back up onto her pink blanket. SPHP was getting ready to heat something up for dinner when a young man and a black dog came this way from somewhere over by the river.

Kyle was 23 years old, and had been manager of the Happy Valley Camp for 5 years. Earlier this year he had bought out the 99 year lease held by the former owner, who apparently wanted out after 2 disastrous years when Covid-19 had completely killed business.

Happy Valley Camp had a total of 40 rooms that Kyle rented out during the summer to oilfield professionals and truckers, plus a cook he’d hired that provided meals for them, but not to the general public. Kyle also sold aviation fuel to the airstrip operation, which he did not control. Fortunately, business was much better this year.

Already twice Lupe’s size, Otis was a black lab puppy only 3 months old with gigantic paws. Otis was ready to leap right into the RAV4, and join Lupe on her next adventure, but the Carolina Dog was decidedly cool to the notion. Otis had to settle for a Dingo stick provided by SPHP, which he seemed perfectly happy with.

Kyle said it was fine to park here overnight at no charge. He’d already shut Happy Valley Camp down for the season. He and Otis would soon be leaving for Anchorage. Winter is coming! Kyle said. Felt like it, too, at dusk in the gloom of the cold, damp fog. Still August, but summer was long gone. Already late fall here.

Kyle and Otis eventually left for the bright yellow building. SPHP heated up a can of chili, but for some reason, Lupe didn’t want any. She did have a few Ritz crackers before settling in for the night.

8-28-22, 9:33 AM, Happy Valley, Dalton Highway MP 334 –

Fog, rain, or mist! We certainly have our choice of weather here, SPHP!

So it seems, Looper. Shall we check out the Sagavanirktok River before we move on? We’ll be heading out soon.

Wandering over that way, the Sag was as gray and murky as the sky.

**Sagavanirktok River** at **Happy Valley**. Photo looks S (upstream).

Kyle had said that fishing was good on the Sagavanirktok, but Lupe didn’t see any jump. As quiet as things were with the camp closed, a stroll over to the airstrip didn’t reveal much of interest except a display with some posters about the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge.

**Arctic National Wildlife Refuge** – **Creation & Purposes**

8-28-22, 10:23 AM, Dalton Highway – Back on the road again! Devouring last night’s scorned chili with apparent relish, the American Dingo then kept a keen eye out for any more woolly cows.

Following the Sagavanirktok River N, the Dalton Highway was wet, but in good shape. A few miles N of Happy Valley, there was a 10 mile long stretch that was chip sealed, the first pavement since way back at MP 210 a little N of Dillon Mountain (4,820 ft.).

How far to Deadhorse, SPHP?

80 miles from Happy Valley, Looper. Be there by noon. Uh-oh! Dang it!

Uh-oh? What’s uh-oh, SPHP?

RAV4 got nailed by those gravel trucks in the road construction yesterday, Loop. Just noticed a crack in the lower L corner of the windshield. Shoot! Thought we’d somehow gotten lucky, and made it through that gauntlet unscathed. If I’d driven even an inch farther R, all the RAV4 would have suffered was a little chipped paint.

Oh, I see it. That’s a tiny crack, SPHP. Doesn’t hurt anything.

Yeah, fine for now, but it’ll spread. Going to need a whole new windshield at some point. Guess it’s just a risk we take coming up here, Loopster. Nothing to be done about it.

The only other time Lupe had been to Deadhorse back in 2017, the last 54 miles of the Dalton Highway had all been under construction. What a difference! Today it was all beautifully paved – striped and everything!

On the beautiful new final 54 mile section of the **Dalton Highway**. **Evil new windshield crack** (lower L).

Wow! This is awesome! Cruising in style now, Looper!

Hey, SPHP! Isn’t that a pingo way off to the L?

Oh, I bet your right, Loop! A pretty big one, too. Let’s stop real quick for a look. Haven’t seen a pingo since we were in Tuktoyaktuk!

The mighty **pingo** as seen with help from the telephoto lens.

8-28-22, 11:48 AM, 42ºF, Dalton Highway MP 414, Deadhorse – On this damp, gray day, Lupe stood at a “T” intersection with Lake Colleen in view beyond her for the first time in 5 years.

**Lake Colleen** at the **end of the Dalton Highway**.

Congratulations, Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood! You’ve made it back to the N end of the Dalton Highway!

Thank you, SPHP! Been a while, hasn’t it? To make it completely official, though, shouldn’t we go to the Prudhoe Bay General Store over by Brooks Camp?

Precisely the plan, Looper.

**Deadhorse** from the **end of the Dalton Highway**. **Lake Colleen** (L), **Aurora Hotel** (yellow building L of Center).

By the **End of the Dalton Highway** sign outside the **Prudhoe Bay General Store**.

After posing by the “Welcome to the End of the Dalton Highway” sign at the Prudhoe Bay General Store, the Carolina Dog sauntered over for a look at the nearby Crazy Horse Industrial Pad.

Checking out the **Crazy Horse Industrial Pad**.

Fueling up the RAV4 was the next priority. They were proud of their fuel at the Colville Gas Station. SPHP was just happy that there was gasoline available. Fortunately, the RAV4 wasn’t too thirsty.

What now, SPHP? Our traditional Deadhorse industrial tour?

If you can call twice a tradition already, Loop, but first, since we’re back to civilization again, how about something to eat? I’ll bring you something from the buffet at The Aurora, if you like.

Sounds good, SPHP! If they’ve got any barbecued beef ribs like at Coldfoot Camp, bring me some of those.

I’ll see what I can do, Loopster.

**Engine block heater plugins** for winter use. **8 miles from the Arctic Ocean**, Deadhorse gets a mite chilly!

8-28-22, 12:35 PM, at the Aurora Hotel in Deadhorse – The lunch buffet was only $18.00, tax included. A fabulous deal, but apparently they eat lunch early in the oil patch. The beautiful, spacious dining room was empty, and SPHP alone at the buffet.

Sadly, no barbecued beef ribs for Lupe, but there was lots of other great stuff to choose from. SPHP loaded up a big tray, then sat by one of the huge picture windows with a view of Lake Colleen.

It was all delicious! Only the fact that they began tearing the buffet down at 1:00 PM sharp kept SPHP from being a tremendous glutton.

Took long enough, SPHP! What did you bring me? Lots of scrumptious ribs, I hope!

No ribs, I’m afraid, Loop, but look at this! Got a few things I think you’ll enjoy during our Deadhorse industrial tour this afternoon.

The Carolina Dog’s eyes grew big as SPHP opened a Styrofoam doggie box full of ham, cheese, and roast beef.

8-28-22, 1:54 PM – An industrial camp serving the Prudhoe Bay oilfields near the Arctic Ocean, Deadhorse has no business district, virtually no shopping, and no private homes. Touring Deadhorse meant touring all kinds of industrial establishments offering oilfield supplies, equipment, or services, and going by the few hotels where the workers live.

The **golf course** with **2 giant golf balls**. Oilfield workers don’t play mini-golf.

Deadhorse isn’t everyone’s cup of tea. When Loopster first visited the Brooks Range in 2016, quite a few people described Alaska’s North Slope as boring, and Deadhorse as just an ugly industrial place. Not worth the time and expense to get here!

Having worked in heavy industry, SPHP felt differently. Deadhorse, and its demanding jobs in such a remote, harsh climate, seemed more like an exciting opportunity and adventure.

Lupe shared some of SPHP’s enthusiasm for the North Slope, but wasn’t all that keen on the industrial side of Deadhorse, although she willingly participated in today’s tour between tasty tidbits from The Aurora.

SPHP drove every road open to the public in Deadhorse, including the one that went all the way around Lake Colleen.

**Tanker trucks** and stacks of **industrial containers**.

For the most part, Deadhorse looked remarkably similar to how it had been during Lupe’s 2017 visit, but there were some changes. The Alaska Airlines terminal at the airport seemed to be closed. The Prudhoe Bay Hotel across the street was closed, too.

Nothing going on at the **Alaska Airlines terminal**.

A note on the **Prudhoe Bay hotel** door dated 7-1-21 said it was temporarily closed.

These days, all the action at the airport seemed to be originating over at the Deadhorse Aviation Center down the street from the Alaska Airlines terminal, but SPHP didn’t go inside to find out if that was really the case.

There aren’t that many streets in Deadhorse. Even at a leisurely pace, Lupe’s industrial tour took only a little over an hour.

8-28-22, 3:04 PM, Deadhorse –

Happy, SPHP? Is the industrial tour over?

Yes. Enjoyed seeing it all again, Loopster. Thanks for being a good sport!

Great! Can we get to the fun stuff then, and visit the Sagavanirktok River?

Pretty soon. I want to check on tours available at Deadhorse Camp, first.

You already did the Arctic Ocean tour as my personal representative in 2017, SPHP.

Yeah, I know, but I’d like to see what else they might have to offer.

The Sagivanirktok River was right along the Dalton Highway on the way into Deadhorse. Deadhorse Camp was, too. One of the first buildings on the L entering Deadhorse, it used to be a sickly yellow, but was now sporting brand new dark red siding.

At **Deadhorse Camp**, **home of the Arctic Ocean Tour**.

8-28-22, 3:17 PM, Deadhorse Camp – Took SPHP a few minutes to realize that the entrance stairway had been switched to the opposite end of the building since Lupe had last been here. The American Dingo waited in the RAV4 while SPHP went inside.

So what did they say, SPHP? Did you sign up for a tour?

The only tour they can book here in Deadhorse is the same Arctic Ocean tour I went on in 2017.

Oh, too bad, SPHP! Can we go to the Sagavanirktok River now?

Sure, for a while, Loop. Have to report back here between 5:00 and 6:00 PM. They should have an answer back by then on whether I pass muster on the security check they’re running on me.

What? You’re taking the Arctic Ocean tour again, SPHP?

Yup! Why not? How often are we ever going to be this close to the Arctic Ocean, anyway? The price is still only $69.00! Hasn’t changed since 2017, so a super bargain. Besides, I’ve got unfinished business with this tour.

What kind of unfinished business, SPHP?

Last time it never even occurred to me that I could go swimming in the Arctic Ocean. We were already there when I realized what the stack of white towels that were in the bus were for. I wasn’t prepared, and had to settle for just wading in the ocean. This time, I’m going to swim in the Arctic Ocean, Looper!

And I suppose I still get left out, aye, SPHP? Still no Dingoes allowed on the tour?

Afraid so, Loopster. Back to being your personal representative again. I did ask, and told them you wouldn’t be any trouble at all, but they said no.

8-28-22, 4:00 PM – The mood at the Sagavanirktok River was completely different from what it had been in 2017. Back then there’d been a little sunshine, the sky only partly cloudy. A small crowd was present. People in wet suits had been tubing down the river, and some optimistic soul had spent a frustrating hour trying to fly a green kite despite an almost non-existent breeze. The atmosphere had been rather festive.

Except for a lone pickup truck with a green camper, no one was around today. Although no longer raining or misting, the sky was completely overcast.

Today’s burgeoning crowd at the **Sagavanirktok**. **Green camper** (L).

Lupe still spent a wonderful late afternoon along the Sagivanirktok River. Some sort of unseen marmots or Arctic prairie dogs were living in holes in the tundra. One in particular inhabited a 40 foot long steel pipe that had a 3rd hole in it 10 feet from the river end.

Perfectly safe in its steel fortress, the marmot squeaked enticingly from within, as Lupe frantically tried to dig out the entire pipe, doomed to failure from the start. None of that mattered to the determined Dingo. Although SPHP managed to divert her attention with walks along the river, Lupe always insisted on returning to her pipeline excavation.

Happily occupied along the **Sagavanirktok River**.

Upstream the river was well contained by a steep bank where occasional piers of rock extended partway out into the main channel. Downstream, there was more opportunity to explore the water’s edge. At this time of year, the Sag was low with lots of exposed river bottom to sniff.

Heading off to explore the downstream region.

**Deadhorse** from the **Sagavanirktok River**.

8-28-22, 4:47 PM – A group of ptarmigans were in the parking lot when SPHP parked the RAV4 at Deadhorse Camp again. Despite arriving a bit earlier than told to, they already had an answer back. Once again, the United States was willing to take a chance on letting SPHP ride the Arctic Ocean tour bus. Dingoes were still too big a threat to national security.

**Ptarmigans** at the Deadhorse Camp parking lot.

Probably think you’re an Australian spy, Looper.

Not buying that I’m an American Dingo, aye? You should have told them that I was a Carolina Dog, SPHP!

In any case, the die was cast. SPHP was booked on the tour leaving at 8:30 AM tomorrow morning. After leaving Deadhorse Camp, Lupe got to spend the rest of the evening along the Sagavanirktok River. Even the green camper was long gone.

8-29-22, the wee hours, Sagavanirktok River – 41ºF, but the night seemed cold, raw, and damp. The lights of Deadhorse were beautiful in the fog. SPHP couldn’t sleep with the impending test of sanity and self-discipline only hours away. Swim in the Arctic Ocean? Inconceivable! The shame of chickening out wasn’t exactly a grand prospect, either. Under cover of darkness, SPHP changed into a bathing suit before bundling up again.

8-29-22, 5:18 AM, Sagavanirktok River – Starting to get light out. Lupe wanted out of the RAV4 to sniff the morning air. Still foggy. During the short drive to The Aurora a few minutes later, she had some Taste of the Wild from her silver bowl.

The breakfast buffet was going great guns at this hour. SPHP enjoyed a very hearty meal. Still only $15.00. Same price as in 2017. What a steal!

Bring me anything, SPHP?

You know I did, Loopster! You can munch on it while we take a last spin around Lake Colleen.

Bacon and sausage patties! Another fantastic tour of Lake Colleen!

Back at the Sagavanirktok River, there was no sky, only fog, but Lupe could see the river. A bird that looked part duck, part loon was floating by. This bird had a disturbingly strange cry like a cat in distress – mew, mew, mew! Other ducks responded, paddling over to it, but the catbird wasn’t actually hurt. Another bird of the same type with the same cry soon flew off in apparently perfect health.

8-29-22, 7:34 AM, Deadhorse Camp, 40ºF – Tyler, a young man, verified that SPHP was on the Arctic Ocean tour list, then accepted the required $69.00, which SPHP paid in cash. Molly, who also worked here, said she wanted to meet Lupe when the tour was over. She missed her dog.

Tyler turned out to be the tour guide and shuttle bus driver. After a short wait while others arrived, everyone boarded the bus. Lupe, of course, had to stay in the RAV4. 7 people were on the tour, including SPHP. A lively group, they made it fun, peppering Tyler with questions during the drive through the oilfields.

To SPHP, the most interesting comment Tyler made was that the Alaska oil pipeline now only carries about 300,000 barrels of oil per day, an 85% decrease from its heyday when 2,000,000 barrels was normal.

8-29-22, 8:47 AM, Arctic Ocean at Prudhoe Bay – Although visibly eroded, the spit of gravelly land next to where Tyler parked the shuttle bus was instantly recognized by SPHP. This was the exact same place where the 2017 Arctic Ocean tour had wound up.

Tyler referred to this spit as a “dock” that had been built on barrels still rusting away at its far end.

**Arctic Ocean** from the end of the “dock”.

The moment of truth was at paw! Proceeding without hesitation, SPHP was not alone stripping down to a swimsuit.

Can’t think about this, or it will never happen! SPHP was first, leading the way into the Arctic Ocean. The ocean was shallow. It was quite a trek out to where it was finally mid-thigh.

C’ya all! I’m swimming to Russia!

Plunging in, SPHP completely submerged, getting a taste of salt water in the process. The swim to Russia had scarcely begun, when SPHP shot out of the water with one great whoop, then proceeded to wade back into shore, clutching a souvenier rock torn from the ocean floor. The rock was a perfectly ordinary, rounded, greenish stone, but it would do. SPHP hadn’t the slightest intention of seeking out a better one.

At least 2 other tour members also swam, however briefly, in the Arctic Ocean. All but one at least waded in a ways. Everyone was laughing and talking about how great it was! A couple from Colombia hugged with joy at having made it all this way. It really was a great moment, a landmark in time. SPHP’s only regret was that Lupe wasn’t there, too.

Fellow tour members still cavorting in **Prudhoe Bay**.

Tyler passed out white towels from a cardboard box. Took a little while before everyone was dried off and adequately layered up again.

Tour guide, **Tyler**, appropriately dressed on the R, as the tour winds down.

The **shuttle bus** (R of Center) from the end of the spit.

Last glance at the **Arctic Ocean** before departing.

On the way back to Deadhorse Camp, a red fox was spotted roaming the oil patch. There’d been foxes during the 2017 Arctic Ocean tour, too.

Upon reaching Deadhorse Camp, Tyler passed out an “Arctic Polar Bear Club Certificate of Membership for braving the icy waters of the Arctic Ocean at Prudhoe Bay, Alaska!” to everyone on the tour who had dared stick a toe in the water. Dated August 29, 2022, it was personally signed by Tyler making it all official.

Molly came out to meet and pet Lupe at the RAV4, too. Lupe was happy with all the attention Molly gave her, and joined SPHP during good-byes and bon voyages with fellow tour members.

So, how did it go, SPHP? Glad you’re here, but I wasn’t expecting you back quite this soon. What was Russia like?

Experienced a sudden change of heart about swimming to Russia shortly after plunging in, Loop. Never actually got there.

Well, as my personal representative, you did at least go swimming in the Arctic Ocean for me, didn’t you?

Oh, yes! Yes, I did, Loopster! For quite a few nanoseconds. A good dozen or more, I’d say.

That isn’t very long is it, SPHP? I can hardly go around boasting that the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood’s personal representative swam in the Arctic Ocean for 12 nanoseconds, can I?

I suppose not, Loop, but that’s a good thing!

Oh, really? In what way, SPHP?

Now we’ve got a reason to come back to Deadhorse again! Next time I can work on my Arctic Ocean swimming endurance for you. Pretty sure I can shatter today’s record.

8-29-22, 10:34 AM, Sagavanirktok River – SPHP had another walk along the Sag in mind, but didn’t get far. Lupe had other ideas, preferring to stick her nose down Arctic prairie dog holes instead. That was OK, it was her turn for fun. SPHP enjoyed watching her enthusiasm, and admiring the mighty Sag, as gray as the sky.

8-29-22, 11:42 AM, 43ºF – 24 hours after arriving, still in a gray fog, Lupe left Deadhorse on the beautiful 54 mile long new stretch of the Dalton Highway. Before departure there’d been one more visit to the Prudhoe Bay General Store near Brooks Camp so SPHP could buy a few souvenirs in addition to the green rock plucked from the Arctic Ocean for Lupe’s rock collection.

The fog lifted. Vast regions of golden tundra were in view. Although many adventures were still ahead, there was a sadness to heading S again. SPHP couldn’t shake the feeling that an epic journey had reached its climax back along the foggy Sagavanirktok River in Deadhorse.

The sadness only got worse when Lupe spotted a lone caribou. Soon 8 were seen on a hillside, but bow hunters in camouflage appeared ready to slaughter them. Terrible!

Passing Happy Valley, it’s bright yellow headquarters could be seen from the highway, and it did seem a more cheerful place. No doubt Kyle and Otis were still there for a few more days, busy winterizing the facilities.

Another herd of musk oxen was a special treat. Grazing quite a long way from the highway over by the Sagavanirktok River, they were too far off to inspire the same frenzied reaction from the Carolina Dog that the ones in the ditch had 2 days ago.

SPHP was disappointed when both Slope Mountain (4,010 ft.) and Imnavait Mountain (3,702 ft.) turned out to be hidden by clouds. Only their lower slopes were in view.

Approaching Galbraith Lake near the N edge of the Brooks Range, the Dalton Highway was dry for the first time in days. A fair amount of blue sky was around, too.

Galbraith Lake seems to be the only dry spot in the entire Brooks Range and North Slope! Want to stay at the campground again, Loop?

8-29-22, 4:15 PM, Galbraith Lake Campground, Dalton Highway MP 275 – The American Dingo was all for that idea! And why not? It was already a favorite spot. Lupe spent much of the evening having a blast exploring the tundra W of the campground.

Investigating beneath boulders W of Galbraith Lake campground. Photo looks E.

Lupe had been here 4 nights ago. SPHP noticed a certain chill in the air, and that the fall colors were no longer quite as brilliant as they had been so recently. Yet if this weather would hold, the American Dingo was in for another incredible Brooks Range adventure tomorrow.

Unfortunately, after wandering until distant lights were visible over by the Galbraith airstrip and on the Dalton Highway, this peaceful evening out on the tundra ended with the mountains all hidden by clouds and fog moving in. A sad thought – maybe this was it for the Brooks Range, after all? (11:15 PM)

Happy times along the **Sagavanirktok River**, Deadhorse, Alaska 8-29-22

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

Deadhorse, Alaska – The Arctic Ocean Tour & Sagavanirktok River Walk (8-21-17)

Arctic Ocean Shuttle Tour from Deadhorse Camp

BLM Dalton Highway Visitor Guide

Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacations to Wyoming, Canada & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Deadhorse, Alaska – the Arctic Ocean Tour & Sagavanirktok River Walk (8-21-17)

Day 22 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

5:18 AM, 44°F – Already light out, but dense fog hides everything. A strange noise, possibly electronic, is coming from somewhere every few seconds. SPHP checks the camera. No, it wasn’t left on. Lupe is awake. She hears the noise, too, but seems unconcerned. After a minute or two, the noise stops. Odd. Whatever. Back to sleep.

7:54 AM, 44°F – Wow, stayed conked out a long time! Still foggy, but the silvery Sagavanirktok River is now in view. Loop’s ready to get out and sniff the air. There’s that strange noise again. It’s not electronic. Birds resembling loons afloat on the Sag are the source. Cool!

It’s Monday morning. Deadhorse is awake now and apparently back to work, no longer the ghostly place it was last night. Loop hears loud noises, a variety of banging and clanging coming from across the Dalton Highway. The Carolina Dog hates loud noises! Lupe wants back in the G6, where she curls up to snooze some more.

Lupe wakes up to a view of the silvery **Sagavanirktok River** in Deadhorse, Alaska. Photo looks SE.

9:00 AM, 45°F – The trip journal is caught up again now. Lupe’s nap is done. The fog has lifted somewhat. Out of the G6 for another look at the Sagavanirktok River. Then it’s time to scout out breakfast possibilities, and find out more about the Arctic Ocean tour – today’s big event!

After her early nap, Lupe checks out the view of the **Sagavanirktok River** again. More than an hour has gone by, and the fog has lifted.

In 2016, Lupe had taken the Dalton Highway halfway to Deadhorse. She’d climbed a pair of wonderful peaks in Alaska’s Brooks Range, Sukakpak Mountain and Dillon Mountain, and gone on her 2016 Last Mile North adventure.

While in the Brooks Range, Lupe and SPHP had met several groups of people who had been all the way to Deadhorse at the end of the Dalton Highway. Deadhorse is only 6-8 miles S of Prudhoe Bay. However, for oilfield security purposes, the public is not allowed free access to the Arctic Ocean. The only way to get there is by taking a guided tour.

SPHP asked everyone Lupe met if they had taken the Arctic Ocean tour, but nobody had. Everybody liked Alaska’s North Slope, and most had seen some really cool wildlife along the Dalton Highway – snowy owls, arctic foxes, caribou and even musk ox – but no one liked Deadhorse, an ugly industrial complex. And no one thought the price of the Arctic Ocean tour was worth it. Everyone had seen other oceans elsewhere, and that was good enough for them.

Really? The Arctic Ocean not worth it? Not even once, just to have been there and seen some part of the polar ocean at the top of the world? SPHP already knew that Dingoes weren’t officially allowed on the Arctic Ocean tour, but intended to plead Lupe’s case. If Loop had to buy a ticket, too, so be it. Even cheapskate SPHP would spring for that, if it meant the American Dingo could stand on the shore of the Arctic Ocean!

The Arctic Ocean tour begins at Deadhorse Camp, a long boxy yellow tan building visible on the L side of the Dalton Highway on the way into Deadhorse. Lupe had stopped by Deadhorse Camp late yesterday evening.

Lupe had stopped by Deadhorse Camp yesterday evening. It was easy to spot on the L side of the Dalton Highway shortly after reaching the outskirts of Deadhorse.

Since Deadhorse Camp was already within sight, SPHP drove over there first. Lupe waited in the G6 while SPHP went inside.

Already a little past 9:00 AM, it turns out that the first Arctic Ocean tour of the day has already left. The tour is conducted twice daily. A shuttle bus leaves from Deadhorse Camp at 8:30 AM and 3:30 PM. Each tour typically takes a little under 2 hours. Most of the tour is actually about the Prudhoe Bay oilfield. However, limited access to the Arctic Ocean is provided for 15 to 30 minutes. Cost is $69.00 per person, which includes all taxes and fees.

Fine, fine! It was all fine, except for one thing.

I’m sorry, Loopster! You can’t go. I tried to talk them into it, even offered to buy you a separate ticket, but it all fell on completely deaf ears. They were adamant. No Dingoes allowed.

I won’t ever get to see the Arctic Ocean?

No. I know it isn’t fair, and I’m terribly sorry. Apparently there’s just no way to get them to change their minds.

So, now what?

Well, if you don’t mind, I’d like to go on the tour myself, as the personal representative of the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood. It’s the best we can do under the circumstances.

And I have to wait here in the G6?

Yes. It’s only a couple of hours. You can take it easy, and have another nap.

I suppose that’s OK, SPHP. As Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood, I suppose I really ought to send you as my representative since I can’t go myself. Are you leaving now?

Oh, good. Glad you see it that way, Loop. No, I’m not leaving yet. The next tour isn’t until later this afternoon. We can go do some other stuff in the meantime.

Like what?

Well, for starters, we should go to the end of the Dalton Highway. The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood should get her picture taken there for posterity, don’t you think? It’s only a couple of miles from here.

Oh, yeah! That’s true! We didn’t get a picture there last night, did we? Let’s go get that taken care of before we forget.

Lupe stands on the Dalton Highway in Deadhorse, Alaska. The 414 mile long highway officially ends at the T intersection in front of **Lake Colleen** just ahead. Photo looks W.

Looking back from the end of the Dalton Highway. This is the start of the way back S to Livengood and Fairbanks. Photo looks E.

Lupe poses near **Lake Colleen** a little beyond the end of the Dalton Highway. Lake Colleen is the largest lake in Deadhorse. It’s possible to drive completely around it.

SPHP congratulated Lupe on reaching the end of the Dalton Highway. Maybe she would like to send her Grandma a postcard from Deadhorse? Loop thought that would be a good idea! Wouldn’t Grandma be surprised to learn she was way up here practically at the Arctic Ocean?

The clerk at the Prudhoe Bay Hotel had given SPHP a simple map of Deadhorse last night. It didn’t show much detail, but all the major roads were on it, and so was Brooks Range Supply. The clerk had said Brooks Range Supply had a gift shop. That might be a good place to look for a postcard.

The simple map of Deadhorse that SPHP received courtesy of the Prudhoe Bay Hotel. Not much detail, but the major roads are shown.

When Lupe reached Brooks Range Supply, she found a sign welcoming her to Deadhorse, Alaska on the side of the building. SPHP recognized this sign, having seen it online before Lupe ever left home on this Dingo Vacation. Now Lupe was actually here, thousands of miles from home!

Lupe outside Brooks Range Supply. SPHP recognized the yellow sign welcoming Looper to Deadhorse from the internet.

SPHP went into Brooks Range Supply while Lupe lounged about in the G6. The main floor was a giant parts store. No doubt it all would have been enormously useful if Loop intended to start up her own oilfield. However, as profitable as that might have been, it wasn’t actually the case.

A little exploring revealed that the Deadhorse post office was located here, too. It was also on the main floor down a hallway. The gift shop turned out to be a much smaller area upstairs. The gift shop had lots of clothing, mugs, and all that sort of stuff for tourists. They had postcards too, but the postcards about Alaska were all generic. SPHP had hoped to find something specific to Deadhorse, Prudhoe Bay, or the Arctic Ocean. No such luck.

SPHP bought an Alaska postcard, anyway. SPHP then returned to Lupe in the G6, to write up her postcard to Grandma before mailing it. Lupe made sure SPHP mentioned she was sending lots of love to Grandma, too.

After mailing the postcard, it was late morning. Still plenty of time left before the afternoon Arctic Ocean tour. On the way to Brooks Range Supply, SPHP had seen a multi-story hotel called the Aurora. Maybe it was possible to get lunch there? It meant another wait for Lupe in the G6, but she didn’t mind as long as she got some Taste of the Wild.

Loop outside the Aurora Hotel. The Aurora turned out to be a great place to eat!

Upon entering the Aurora Hotel, signs indicated blue slip-on boot covers were required to help keep the hotel floors clean. This is apparently standard practice everywhere in Deadhorse. The Prudhoe Bay Hotel had required them last night, too. The disposable boot covers were provided free at the entryway, along with benches to sit on while putting them on. Everyone complies, and so did SPHP.

Coming to the Aurora for lunch proved to be a fantastic idea! SPHP learned that an all you can eat luncheon was about to be served. It was buffet style and being set up right now. $15.00 tax included. A huge, high-ceiling dining area featured tall glass windows overlooking Lake Colleen. When the buffet was ready, the food was delicious! A wide variety of entrees was available. Being the middle of the day, the dining room was mostly empty. The Aurora’s customers are mostly oilfield workers, who were either working or sleeping this time of day.

SPHP tanked up on everything imaginable while watching waterfowl on Lake Colleen. It was 12:34 PM when SPHP waddled out of the Aurora.

Certainly took your sweet time, didn’t you?

Oh, Loopster! Too bad you can’t go in there. The Aurora is fantastic! So good. Better get used to the wait. Found out breakfast is served 4:30 AM to 7:30 AM. Not missing that before we leave Deadhorse in the morning.

Well, at least someone is having a grand time in Deadhorse!

Oh, come on. Here, I’ve smuggled you out some bacon. Besides, you’re going to have some fun now. We have time for a Sagavanirktok River walk. Should be a good time.

Bacon? Now you’re talking, SPHP!

Deadhorse is full of all sorts of interesting stuff. Here Lupe stands near a line of whatever in the heck they are not far from the Aurora Hotel.

For an hour, Loopster did have fun along the Sagavanirktok River. She explored rock jetties along the riverbank. She sniffed around gullies in the tundra nearby. The Carolina Dog watched geese flying in formation, and barked excitedly each time an airplane roared low overhead.

The Sag looked all silvery from even a short distance, but up close it was more of a greenish silver. The water was neither murky nor particularly clear. It was possible to see quite a few feet down into the water. The river was hundreds of feet wide, but other than the main channel, most of it didn’t appear deep. Though the current looked strong, the river’s surface rippled only slightly.

Lupe near the start of her early afternoon **Sagavanirktok River** walk.

Looking upstream. The bank is all artificially built up along here to prevent flooding.

Lupe explores rocks of one of the jetties. Photo looks downstream.

Checking out one of the gullies near the Sagavanirktok River. Some of the gullies were much deeper than this.

Deadhorse was a busy place in the middle of the day. Lupe eventually became concerned with all the industrial noises she was hearing, and wanted to return to the G6. (1:57 PM) SPHP had noticed that a small gift shop in the Aurora Hotel did have postcards about Prudhoe Bay. Might as well go back and get one. Time enough to do that before heading over to Deadhorse Camp.

2:45 PM – Loop’s relaxing in the G6. Just arrived at Deadhorse Camp to pay for the Arctic Ocean tour. The guy who takes the money asks for SPHP’s identification, which is duly presented, then mentions there’s a problem. Half an hour ago, BP (formerly British Petroleum, which holds the lease in the tour area) emailed the Deadhorse Camp tour operators that everyone must make reservations at least 24 hours in advance. This is so they have time to run an FBI check.

In recent times, this has always technically been a requirement, but they haven’t been enforcing it. SPHP can’t go on this afternoon’s Arctic Ocean tour, unless the BP people waive the requirement. Will seeing an American passport help? No. It all depends on the shuttle bus driver, who is a long time BP employee. Until he arrives, nothing to do but wait. The Deadhorse Camp guy says he will encourage a waiver, but no promises.

3:30 PM – The shuttle bus has arrived. The driver hadn’t even seen the email yet. The Deadhorse Camp guy says that when he does, the driver checks everyone’s ID information then agrees to simply blow the email off, at least for this afternoon’s tour. The Arctic Ocean tour is a go! SPHP pays the $69.00 in cash, and climbs aboard the shuttle bus along with the 4 other people taking the tour. Minutes later, the tour is underway.

The tour is very informal. The driver gives no prepared talk, but is willing to answer questions. He is an Alaska native born in Kotzebue, a town of 3,500 on the W coast a little N of the Arctic Circle. He has seen herds of several thousand wild reindeer there. Zinc mining is the big employer in Kotzebue.

The driver has been working on the North Slope for 28 years in various capacities, and lives in Anchorage now. Most oilfield workers do. The company pays for flights between the job and Anchorage, on a rotating on/off cycle. While in Deadhorse, everyone works every day. Not much else to do here, anyway.

A brief stop at the East Checkpoint. The tour is authorized to continue on through the Prudhoe Bay oilfields. The driver points out several of the many scattered oilfield facilities seen from the road, and explains their purpose. If requested, he will stop anywhere along the way for photos or a longer look.

One of a variety of oilfield facilities the Arctic Ocean tour goes by.

Swans on a pond en route to the Arctic Ocean.

What you get out of the shuttle bus part of the tour depends entirely on what you put into it. Ask no questions, and it’s just a taxi ride. You won’t learn much of anything. A man from western Colorado asks a number of questions. SPHP keeps up a near constant Q & A session with the driver, who is a friendly guy. No one else says anything, except a woman with a fancy camera who wants to stop wherever there’s wildlife.

SPHP notices a pile of clean white towels on the seat behind the bus driver, and makes a joke about should have brought a bathing suit, then suddenly realizes that’s exactly what those towels are for. The shuttle bus driver confirms it. Dang! Really should have worn a bathing suit. Never even thought of it until now. A swim in the Arctic Ocean would have been something! Too late now.

Something like half an hour after leaving Deadhorse Camp, the shuttle bus arrives at its destination. This is it, the Arctic Ocean! Everyone piles out. Ahead a gravelly spit of land protrudes a couple hundred yards out into the sea. No one can go anywhere except this one little peninsula. The driver says that Prudhoe Bay is on the L (W) and the Beaufort Sea is on the R (E). Seems unlikely to be strictly true, but we’re going with it. Everyone walks out toward the end of the spit.

This is it! The highlight of the **Arctic Ocean** tour. For $69 you can walk out to the end of this gravelly spit of land protruding into the sea. On the L is **Prudhoe Bay**, on the R is the **Beaufort Sea**. If only Lupe could have been here!

Everything is gray. The ocean is gray, the sky is gray, the rocks are gray. The sea is quite calm. SPHP takes off shoes and socks, and wades in. The water is cold, but no worse than the streams Lupe has been fording in Alaska. The water is surprisingly shallow near shore. SPHP wades 30 or 40 feet out into the Beaufort Sea. The ocean is only knee deep.

Looking out across the **Beaufort Sea**.

The personal representative of the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood stands out in the Beaufort Sea experiencing the Arctic Ocean for 5 minutes, then bends down to pluck a stone off the seabed. Except for a narrow white stripe, the stone is a uniform dull gray. Worn smooth by the action of the waves, it’s a little over 2 inches long. A 0.25 inch diameter depression on one side is the only significant feature.

A souvenir. Something real to take home from the Arctic Ocean. Utterly meaningless to the rest of the world, but forever a tangible reminder of this moment a few tens of feet off the N coast of Alaska. Clutching the small stone, SPHP wades back to join the other tour members on shore.

The **Beaufort Sea** from the end of the spit.

Various energy industry facilities are off in the distance strung out all along the coast in both directions. Nearby a double row of rusty barrels extends out into the sea. Little waves lap the shore line. Too bad Lupe couldn’t be here. It’s a great day. Temps in the 40’s °F. Wonder what this place must be like in winter? Brutal, no doubt.

A view of some sort of oil industry facility across the bay with help from the telephoto lens. The tour guide said that all Prudhoe Bay facilities are onshore. No off-shore drilling goes on up here.

Another oil industry complex across **Prudhoe Bay** with help from the telephoto lens.

A double line of rusting barrels extends out into the **Arctic Ocean**.

Side view looking toward the **Beaufort Sea**.

Other tour members start back to the shuttle bus. Must be time. SPHP lingers at the end of the spit, staring out across the Arctic Ocean. The North Pole is somewhere out there, still roughly 1,200 miles away. This is as close as SPHP will ever get.

Final look at the **Arctic Ocean** before boarding the shuttle bus.

The shuttle bus ride back to Deadhorse Camp retraces the original route to the ocean. Three arctic foxes playing together are the highlight of the return trip.

One of the three arctic foxes seen on the way back to Deadhorse Camp. Look at that magnificent bushy tail!

The 3 foxes were very lively and enjoyed rough and tumble games with each other.

Lupe would have loved playing with the foxes! How they might have felt about being joined by an American Dingo is another matter.

Another energy industry complex on the way back to Deadhorse Camp.

So, how was the Arctic Ocean tour, SPHP? Was it worth it?

Yeah, it was Loop. Really wished you could have been there the whole time, though. I waded right out into the Arctic Ocean!

Wasn’t it frigid?

Not as bad as I expected, but then it’s a balmy day in August. No worse than all the streams and bogs you’ve been traipsing through almost daily on this trip.

What did you like best about it?

Just being there, thinking about where I was on the globe. Zillions of people have been to the ocean, but not that many have ever been to the Arctic Ocean.

Hardly any Dingoes either, I don’t suppose, given the anti-Dingo policies around here.

Probably not, but your cousins have been there!

What?!

We saw three arctic foxes! They were playing together. You would have loved that. And their tails! Magnificent! I like your curly tail, but these foxes had some of the most exquisite tails you’ve ever seen.

Oh, fun! But I think I better stick with the tail I’ve got. I’m rather attached to it, and it to me. So, now what?

Well, how about a tour of Deadhorse? You can at least do that. We’ll just drive around seeing whatever there is to see. We can follow it up with a second Sagavanirktok River walk this evening.

Sounds good. Especially the river walk part. I’m not really so into all this industrial stuff, but we might as well see it while we’re here.

Leaving Deadhorse Camp, Lupe and SPHP drove most of the few major roads in Deadhorse. Several short side roads and a couple of large loops constituted most of the Carolina Dog’s Deadhorse tour.

Nearly everything Lupe saw was directly related to the energy industry. Various industrial installations, a wide variety of oil service companies, drilling rigs, heavy equipment, maintenance and storage facilities, and stacks of supplies were about it. White pickup trucks were all over the place, and semi trucks came and went.

The only businesses open to serving the general public seemed to be the small airport, a couple of unmanned gas stations, various boxy “hotels”, and the gift shop at Brooks Range Supply.

Not a single home was seen anywhere. All the oilfield workers live in the hotels.

Idle drilling rigs in Deadhorse. Energy prices had been low for a couple of years now.

Lupe went clear around Lake Colleen on her tour of Deadhorse. Here she’s NW of the lake only 6 miles from Prudhoe Bay.

The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood a little NW of Lake Colleen.

A truck maintenance and repair facility. Some places in Deadhorse looked quite new like this one. Others appeared much older.

Lots of oil service companies have offices and facilities in Deadhorse.

SPHP has a red stocking cap that says “Halliburton”. It was picked up at a garage sale years ago, but brought SPHP instant acceptance here in Deadhorse. Everyone seemed to think SPHP worked here!

Hotels in Deadhorse really look strange. They are all boxy like this, but are often surprisingly nice inside. Only some of them cater to the public. Most are full of oilfield workers since there are no homes at all in Deadhorse.

One of two gas stations in Deadhorse. This is the fanciest one. Both are completely unmanned. No convenience stores here or anywhere else in Deadhorse. Except for energy industry related businesses, there’s no business district at all.

Mural on one of the buildings. Deadhorse is part of Alaska’s nearly 95,000 square mile North Slope Borough.

8:17 PM – Having had a bite to eat, it was time for Lupe’s evening walk along the Sagavanirktok River. For the first time in many days, most of the sky overhead was completely blue, though clouds existed farther off in every direction. The Sag, as it’s called locally, reflected the sky and was now a beautiful blue itself.

Lupe starts her second **Sagavanirktok River** walk of the day – an unhurried, evening stroll upstream.

Following the beautiful **Sagavanirktok River** upstream in Deadhorse.

The American Dingo wasn’t the only one out enjoying the lovely evening by the Sagavanirktok River. Several fishermen were trying their luck from the bank. A couple of hardy souls came floating down the river. Even though only a light intermittent breeze was blowing, a man kept trying to launch a green kite. The kite would soar briefly before plunging back to earth.

A couple of hardy souls go floating by down the Sagavanirktok River.

The green kite soars briefly on a weak, unreliable breeze.

After a long relaxing stroll, Lupe reached a van parked near the river not far from Deadhorse Camp. The van belonged to a graduate student in theoretical chemistry from Germany. He was watching caribou far beyond the opposite bank of the Sagavanirktok with binoculars. The student let SPHP take a peek.

The theoretical chemist already had reservations to take the Arctic Ocean tour tomorrow. SPHP advised him to wear his swim suit. Lupe enjoyed being petted while the student and SPHP chatted.

This was far enough. The sun was getting low. The moment came to turn around, and begin the walk back to the G6.

Lupe at the endpoint of her **Sagavanirktok River** walk.

Looper had quite a romp among the gullies near the river. She sniffed and explored to her heart’s delight.

Among the gullies where Loop had a fun romp.

The sun took a long time to slide toward the horizon. It was still light out and would be for a while when Lupe reached the G6 again. (9:37 PM) Almost an hour later, SPHP invited Loop to come out and watch the sun go down over the Deadhorse airport. A brilliant sunset seemed like a possibility due to some thin clouds.

The Carolina Dog was done for the day. She wanted to curl up under her blankie instead. SPHP left her to snooze, and walked 5 minutes to the top of a mound of dirt 15 feet higher than the surrounding tundra.

Alone, SPHP stood watching the sun sink. The sunset was pretty, but the hoped for pinks and reds never really developed. It was still a gorgeous evening, a magical moment. An Alaska Airlines plane took off from the airport and curved away overhead. A glistening Sagavanirktok River rippled by near the end of its journey to the Arctic Ocean.

The set up for the sunset looked promising.

But the pinks and reds never really developed.

Tomorrow Lupe would leave for other adventures. SPHP was glad she’d come here, though, beyond the Brooks Range and across the North Slope to Deadhorse at the N end of the Dalton Highway near Prudhoe Bay.

Sagavanirktok River, Deadhorse, Alaska 8-21-17

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