2017 Yukon & Alaska – Page 14 – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

AB Mountain – Lupe Joins the Arctic Sisterhood! Skagway, Alaska (8-7-17)

Day 8 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

Loopster was right! When Monday morning arrived, Skagway bore no resemblance to the virtual ghost town it had been at dusk on Sunday night. It was still early. Skagway wasn’t terribly busy yet, but you could just feel that the whole town would soon be teeming with activity. Before that happened, Lupe and SPHP took a walk down to the Skagway Sea Terminal for a look around.

Loop at at small park on the way to the Skagway Sea Terminal.

This old engine used take trains from Skagway over White Pass to Carcross and Whitehorse in the Yukon.

Skagway is located on the Taiya Inlet of the Lynn Canal, an arm of the North Pacific Ocean. Photo looks SW.

Three big cruise ships were in port, plus a yacht named Playpen and a number of smaller boats tucked away in a separate little cove.

Lupe at the Taiya Inlet. Cruise ship Explorer of the Seas is on the L. Photo looks SSW.

Radiance of the Seas, one of three large cruise ships in port. The almost identical Explorer of the Seas is docked right behind it.

The yacht Playpen and the 3rd big cruise ship.

Lots of smaller boats were tucked safely away in this separate cove. Photo looks NE.

Seeing the ocean and the beautiful mountains along the Taiya Inlet was fun. However, Lupe had already figured out that just like yesterday’s bush pilot flight-seeing tour to Virginia Falls leaving from Muncho Lake, SPHP would announce that taking a cruise on one of these luxurious cruise ships wasn’t in the budget, either.

That was OK. American Dingoes are flexible. They’re open to all sorts of ideas. Lupe had seen another less expensive entertainment possibility on the walk through town. Maybe SPHP could be talked into this one?

*SPHP, look at how good I’m being, and how pretty I am next to all these beautiful flowers! You’ll take me out to the Red Onion, won’t you, please? It’s right across the street, just follow me!*

Lupe had hopes for some high times at the Red Onion!

Lupe was in for high times, alright, but not at the Red Onion Saloon, at least not now. Today Lupe’s high times were going to involve 4,740 feet of elevation gain climbing AB Mountain (5,036 ft.). She was going to join the Arctic Sisterhood!

In 1899, back in the Klondike gold rush days, the Arctic Brotherhood had been founded by 11 gold prospectors on a steamship headed for Skagway from Seattle. The Arctic Brotherhood was originally a fraternal order whose members pledged to assist one another on the way to and while at the goldfields near Dawson City in the Yukon.

The in-land journey to the goldfields started at Skagway, where a unique two story hall decorated on the exterior with driftwood was built as the Arctic Brotherhood’s headquarters. For a while, the Arctic Brotherhood became very popular and expanded rapidly, at one point having over 10,000 members and up to 34 different camps distributed throughout the Yukon and southern Alaska.

A NNE trending ridge starting at Yakutania Point just W of Skagway rises from Taiya Inlet some 5,036 feet to a mountaintop more than 5 miles away. The letters “AB” appear on this mountain when snow conditions are right, so the mountain became known as A.B. Mountain or Arctic Brotherhood Mountain. It’s sometimes said in modern times that climbing AB Mountain makes one a member of the Arctic Brotherhood.

The real Arctic Brotherhood never accepted female members, but SPHP didn’t want to worry Lupe with such trivial details. As far as SPHP was concerned, if the plucky Carolina Dog could get to the top of the mountain today, she was going to become a member of the Arctic Sisterhood. SPHP told her as much.

Of course, after all her wonderful adventures in the Yukon and Alaska both last year and yet to come on this 2017 Dingo Vacation, Lupe was excited about the prospect of joining the Arctic Sisterhood! She was eager to get going right away!

SPHP found the small trailhead for AB Mountain on the S (L) side of the road to Dyea almost immediately after the road turned to gravel. On the opposite side of the road Lupe spotted a small sign saying A.B. Mountain next to the start of the Skyline Trail. (9:30 AM, 59°F)

*Come on, SPHP! This is it, the Skyline Trail to AB Mountain!*

For the first 2.25 miles, the trail was wide and easy to follow. It varied quite a bit on how steep it was, with both fairly steep and almost level sections. Lupe even came to a few dips. Overall, Lupe gained elevation at a moderate pace.

This early part of the trail went through a forest. Not far from the trailhead, Lupe explored a short side spur leading off the main trail to an exposed boulder. This boulder provided a view back toward Skagway and the Taiya Inlet. Everywhere else the only views were of the forest.

The wide, well worn trail to AB Mountain starts off in a forest.

Early in the trek, a boulder at the end of a short spur off the main trail provides this view of the Taiya Inlet. This is the only viewpoint for more than 2 miles. Photo looks SSW.

Shortly after returning to the main trail, Lupe crossed the first of two small streams.

Lupe wades in the first small stream that crosses the trail.

Continuing past the first small stream, the forest was tall and thick for a long way.

After crossing the first stream, the trail went a long way through the forest before eventually crossing a second small stream. Beyond the second stream, the trail began to steepen rapidly. It was soon so steep that SPHP was often grabbing branches, tree trunks, rocks – whatever was available for assistance. The steep climb didn’t bother Lupe, though.

At the start of this steep section, the trail had still been in thick forest. As Lupe gained elevation, however, the situation began to change. Tall bushes and Devil’s club mingled in among the trees. Lupe even saw a few blueberries and crowberries. Gradually, the trees became smaller and fewer. The tall bushes and Devil’s club prevailed. Views were now starting to open up.

As Lupe got higher, the trees began to thin. Tall bushes and Devil’s club began to dominate, and views started opening up. Photo looks SSW toward Skagway and Taiya Inlet.

SPHP had previously read online about an obstacle that Lupe had to be fast approaching. Somewhere along this steep section of the trail, trip reports stated there was a rope needed to get up a particularly slippery, dangerous spot. How bad was this spot? Was it a small cliff? Would Lupe even be able to get past it? SPHP was worried that the rope might be as far as the Carolina Dog could go.

Lupe finally did reach a yellow rope dangling 40 or 50 feet down a long, smooth-surfaced rock. The rock was plenty steep, but this wasn’t nearly as bad as SPHP had feared it might be. No exposure, no insurmountable obstacles. In fact, the American Dingo could scamper up and down the rock at will. The rope was a tremendous help to SPHP. With its assistance SPHP simply walked right on up the rock no problem at all.

Lupe reaches the dreaded rope section. It turned out to be nothing to worry about at all. The rope made it easy for SPHP to walk right on up. Lupe was perfectly capable of scampering up and down the steep rock at will without it.

Lupe kept climbing. SPHP had to stop frequently to catch breath. Lupe was starting to get above all the trees. The trail remained very steep. Even the tall bushes and Devil’s club were starting to give way to shorter vegetation. A high point up ahead looked like the start of easier terrain, and some fabulous sweeping views.

The trail remained very steep above the rope, but this high point eventually came into view promising both easier terrain and sweeping views ahead.

Starting to get above not only the trees, but the tall bushes, too. Skagway is on the L. Yakutania Point and the forest Lupe had come through on the way up are at Center. Dyea Point is the skinny peninsula on the R. Photo looks SSW along Taiya Inlet.

The climb up to the first sweeping viewpoint was farther than it looked, but Lupe and SPHP made it. The terrain was a lot easier here. The vegetation was reduced to tundra plants. Nothing obstructed the glorious views which were absolutely amazing in virtually every direction.

Lupe reaches the first sweeping viewpoint above the steepest section of the trail to AB Mountain. Dyea is in the valley at lower R. **Parsons Peak (5,600 ft.)** towers across the bay on the L. Photo looks WSW.

Lupe met two people at this first sweeping viewpoint. Sean and Rebecca Riordan from Brooklyn, New York were here enjoying the grand views. They had come to Skagway aboard the Explorer of the Seas, which Lupe had seen docked down at Skagway this morning. Sean and Rebecca were super friendly and nice to Lupe. Rebecca said her grandma was named Lupe, too!

Lupe met Sean & Rebecca Riordan from Brooklyn, New York at this first sweeping viewpoint. Photo looks E.

Sean and Rebecca were super friendly and nice to Lupe. Photo looks E.

Rebecca and Lupe with Taiya Inlet in the background. Photo looks S.

Sean and Lupe together. Sean was looking forward to pizza and drinks aboard the Explorer of the Seas this evening. Lupe thought maybe she’d join Sean if the Red Onion Saloon didn’t work out with SPHP. Photo looks N.

Sean, Rebecca and SPHP had a good time chatting for quite a while. Lupe certainly didn’t mind taking a break being petted and loved.

Relaxing with Sean and Rebecca Riordan before they depart for Skagway and pizza and drinks aboard the luxurious Explorer of the Seas. Photo looks SSW.

Sean and Rebecca had to be back down to the Explorer of the Seas in time for an 8:00 PM departure, so eventually Lupe and SPHP had to bid them farewell and bon voyage. If the American Dingo hadn’t been committed to joining the Arctic Sisterhood today, she might well have followed Sean and Rebecca down for pizza and drinks aboard the luxurious Explorer of the Seas.

As it was, it was time to get moving again. The summit of AB Mountain was still a long way off, not even in sight yet. Up ahead, Lupe could see two rounded higher hills along the ridge. The trail led toward a closer wall of rock, as if destined to skirt these hills to the W (L).

After Sean and Rebecca headed down, Lupe and SPHP continued on looking for the summit of AB Mountain. Two rounded hills were in sight. The trail led toward the wall of rock partly in view on the L. Photo looks NNE.

The trail was no longer as wide, well-worn and easy to follow as it had been way back down in the forest. SPHP somehow lost it, and wound up on a boulder field below the E side of the rock wall. About half way through the boulder field, people were seen up on top of the rock wall. Apparently the trail was actually up there.

It was slow going on this boulder field below the wall of rock on the L. The trail was actually up on top, but SPHP had somehow lost it. Photo looks NNE.

Lupe and SPHP made it past the boulder field, and up onto the ridgeline beyond the two rounded hills. The trail continued winding along the top of the ridge, and after a while Lupe could see two distant high points ahead. The closer, lower one was marked on the topo map as the location of Hump Benchmark.

After following the ridge a long way beyond the two rounded hills, two distant high points appear ahead in shadow. The closer, lower one is the location of Hump Benchmark on the topo map. SPHP thought the summit of AB Mountain was the higher point beyond it. Photo looks NNE.

It was still a long way to Hump Benchmark, never mind the summit. Lupe continued up the ridgeline. Sometimes the trail was easy to follow, sometimes cairns marked the way, sometimes there was no indication at all of where to go except onward and upward. Lupe was still gaining elevation steadily. The views were fantastic on all sides.

Lupe continued gaining elevation along the giant ridgeline. The views were simply tremendous on all sides! Photo looks NNW.

Looking NE with help from the telephoto lens.

The East Fork of the Skagway River valley. Photo looks ESE with help from the telephoto lens.

The Reid Creek valley. Photo looks SE with help from the telephoto lens.

**Parson Peak (5,600 ft.)** (far L) from the AB Mountain ridge. Photo looks W.

Looking WNW with help from the telephoto lens.

Lupe passing by a small pond up on the ridge. This pond is shown at 4,186 feet (1,276 m) on the topo map. Still 1,050 feet of elevation gain to go from here! Photo looks ENE.

SPHP was getting tired. It seemed like Lupe had already gone a long, long way, but it was clear she still had significant ground left to cover. Several groups of people had either started out earlier in the morning, or had passed Loop and SPHP on the way up. Every now and then one of these groups was met making their way back down.

No one seemed to know how far it was to the summit of AB Mountain (5,036 ft.), although SPHP was pretty certain Lupe had been seeing the summit beyond the Hump from various vantage points along the ridge. However, everyone had turned back before getting there.

Only the last couple of guys Lupe met, one from England and the other from New Zealand, told SPHP they had been to the summit. They had found a large cairn at the top. They claimed it was only another 30 to 60 minutes away from where Lupe was now.

Two people approach Lupe on their way back down. Lupe met several such groups, but only the last two guys from England and New Zealand said they had made it to the summit of AB Mountain. In the distance on the L is the apparent summit, the high point just to its R is Hump Benchmark, or simply “the Hump” as SPHP came to call it. Photo looks NNE.

The Brit and the New Zealander had lied. Not on purpose maybe, perhaps they had gotten to the cairn that quickly, but SPHP couldn’t get there that fast. Not even close. An hour zipped by and the summit, wherever it was, still didn’t appear to be anywhere nearby. Lupe wasn’t even to the Hump yet.

The trail had all but vanished. Lupe rarely even saw a cairn. Another problem now existed. The character of the long ridge was changing. Lupe came to a series of long gashes. Each gash extended all the way across from one side of the big ridge to the other, forcing Loop to find a way around or through each one.

These gashes were all oriented SW/NE. They seemed like they had been created by a giant wielding a dull knife to slice a series of cuts partway into the ridge, as if it were a loaf of bread. Each cut amounted to a gap, and at the edge of each gap Lupe found herself at the top of a wall of rock 10 to 30 feet high. Sometimes there were relatively easy routes down into the gashes and up the other side. Sometimes there weren’t.

The gashes made this part of the ridge an interesting trek, but really slowed SPHP’s progress down. Lupe sometimes had to go way around the end of a gash. Usually it was too steep to go around the W side, but it was always possible to get around the E side, provided Lupe and SPHP down climbed enough.

Instead of gaining elevation steadily, Loop sniffed and explored her way along a twisting up and down off-trail route wherever the terrain appeared most favorable. Some of the gaps she crossed were full of loose rock and boulders. Others contained snow banks.

Lupe discovers a snow bank in one of the gashes.

Having to find ways around rock walls like the one on the R that extended clear across the ridge, made for an interesting, but long, tiring route.

Lupe down in another gash near the steep W end. The Irene Glacier is seen on the L. Photo looks NNW.

Irene Glacier (L). Photo looks NNW with help from the telephoto lens.

At last, Lupe was nearing the Hump. However, the biggest, deepest gash yet appeared between her and the Hump. Looper had to lose 150 feet of elevation going around the far NE end of this gash. Then it was a long climb up a series of benches to reach the top of the Hump from the E.

The Hump is dead ahead. Unfortunately, there is an unseen deep gash between here and there. Lupe had to down climb at least 150 feet of elevation going around the NE (R) end. Part of Mount Clifford (5,696 ft.), is seen ahead on the R. Photo looks N.

East Fork of the Skagway River valley. Photo looks SE.

Loopster climbing the benches on the Hump. Photo looks NE.

In yet another gash on the way up the Hump.

Nearing the top of the Hump. Photo looks SSW.

East Fork of the Skagway River (L) from the Hump. Photo looks SE.

Part of Goat Lake is in view from the Hump. Photo looks NE.

When Lupe reached the top of the Hump, the weather was changing. All day long the sky had been slowly clouding up. Now clouds swept over the ridge to AB Mountain. Lupe and SPHP were periodically engulfed in fog, only to have sunshine reappear a few minutes later. The clouds sailing by came out of the W.

From the top of the Hump, Lupe could finally see the summit again. It wasn’t that far away! Loop had to lose some elevation to get there, but the terrain was now less rugged than it had been getting to the Hump. Lupe had an almost direct route to the summit!

From the the Hump, Lupe can see the summit of AB Mountain ahead! It isn’t that far away now, and the terrain is becoming easier again. Photo looks NNE.

Lupe enjoys a brief moment of sunshine as she closes in on the summit of AB Mountain. Photo looks N.

Looking back down the ridge as another cloud closes in. Dyea is nearly 5,000 feet below on the R. Photo looks SSW.

Looper looks down on Dyea. Photo looks SSW.

Almost there! It was exciting to think that Lupe was about to join the Arctic Sisterhood with a successful ascent of AB Mountain! Photo looks N.

Lupe and SPHP made it to the summit cairn on AB Mountain (5,036 ft.)! Another cloud was sweeping over the ridge. Nothing could be seen except the nearby terrain. The rest of the world was gray.

It was still a joyful moment! Lupe was at the top of AB Mountain. She had joined the Arctic Sisterhood! The long trek had been completely worth it. SPHP congratulated Lupe, shaking her paw and praising her persistent effort.

Lupe reaches the summit cairn on AB Mountain! Photo looks N.

The newest member of the Arctic Sisterhood stands proudly next to the summit cairn on AB Mountain. Photo looks N.

Lupe wondered if she was the first Carolina Dog to join the Arctic Sisterhood? SPHP said she might well be. This was a great honor for Looper and a notable achievement on behalf of all Carolina Dogs everywhere.

Lupe gained more than 4,740 feet of elevation and had traveled more than 5 miles from the trailhead to get here.

Lupe squints in bright light as the fog thins.

Lupe had been standing up at the summit cairn for 6 or 7 minutes when a hole in the clouds opened up a partial view to the N. SPHP was surprised to see another high point not even 0.2 mile away! It looked to be almost identical in elevation to where Lupe was at the cairn. Was it possible it was even higher? Probably not, since the cairn was here, but SPHP checked the topo map anyway.

Oh, good grief! That other high point to the N actually was the true summit of AB Mountain! The topo map showed the other high point as 1535 meters (5,036 feet) compared to 1532 meters (5,026 feet) where Loopster was standing at the cairn. No denying it. Assuming the topo map was correct, which one had to, that other high point was 10 feet higher. The map even showed the name AB Mountain right at that N high point.

After Lupe had been at the summit cairn 6 or 7 minutes, the clouds parted to reveal this other high point to the N. A check of the topo map revealed it was 10 feet higher than where the cairn was, and actually the true summit of AB Mountain. Photo looks N.

It was now 2 hours since the Englishman and New Zealander had told SPHP it was only 30 to 60 minutes to the summit of AB Mountain. Clearly they hadn’t bothered going over to the N high point. They’d only mentioned the cairn. It was getting rather late in the afternoon, and the weather was continuing to degrade with more clouds moving in.

No matter! Lupe was going to the true summit! It didn’t look hard to get there, and shouldn’t take long. No time to lose, though. SPHP explained to Looper that to make her ascent of AB Mountain and new membership in the Arctic Sisterhood official, she needed to tag that N high point.

SPHP didn’t have to tell her twice. Loop led the way to the true summit.

Lupe approaches a snow drift in a low spot on the way to AB Mountain’s true summit. Photo looks N.

Clouds obscured all views again as Lupe reached the true summit of AB Mountain. A small rock stuck in a crack atop a massive rock appeared to be the absolute highest point on AB Mountain (5,036 ft.). Lupe was happy to make her ascent and membership in the Arctic Sisterhood official by standing next to it. SPHP put one of her front paws on top of the little rock and it was done.

All official now! Lupe stands proudly next to the highest little rock on AB Mountain. Photo looks N.

First Carolina Dog ever at the true summit of AB Mountain? SPHP thought there was a good chance Lupe had that honor.

*So did I do it? Can I relax now? ……. Yep, you’re official now Miss Arctic Sisterhood!*

Lupe remained at the true summit of AB Mountain for more than 20 minutes. A 10 mph SW breeze blew a steady stream of fog across the mountaintop. Every now and then, a partial view to the NE was momentarily revealed. A few times Lupe saw blue sky and sunshine directly overhead, while surrounded by fog. Most of the time the summit was simply socked in. Loop never did see more than a faint outline of Mount Clifford, the next higher peak farther N along the ridge.

The American Dingo rested peacefully next to the little rock at the top of AB Mountain enjoying her status as the newest member of the Arctic Sisterhood. There were a couple of other rocks nearby competing closely for the title of true summit. After resting up and having some Taste of the Wild, Lupe tagged them, too. No cairn or registry was found.

The clouds parted enough to permit a few brief glimpses off to the NE while Lupe was at true summit of AB Mountain. Photo looks ENE.

The newest official member of the Arctic Sisterhood relaxes at the true summit of AB Mountain.

Looking SSW, the direction Lupe had come from and would have to return.

Final moments in the fog near the true summit of AB Mountain.

It was already early evening when Lupe and SPHP finally left the true summit of AB Mountain in a dark fog. Lupe returned briefly to the cairn at the false summit, but could see nothing.

Looking toward the false summit shortly after starting back. The cairn is up there somewhere. Lupe returned to it briefly. Photo looks S.

Lupe and SPHP hurried on due to the lateness of the hour. The long trek back was a happy one and most enjoyable. The solitude was unbroken. Lupe seemed energized by the cool clouds and now mostly downhill route. She ran and sniffed and explored far more than she had on the way up.

Fog prevailed much of the way, continuing to stream by from out of the WSW. Once in a while there were holes in the clouds. Dramatic glacier-clad mountain views popped into sight. Lupe bathed in sunlight on the beautiful ridge for anywhere from a few seconds to a few minutes before it all disappeared again.

For a long time, Lupe and SPHP worked in dense fog back past all the gashes cutting across the ridge. The Carolina Dog still faced significant down climbs to the NE, especially getting beyond the Hump. Once past all the gashes, Lupe generally stayed right on top of the ridgeline and had more luck finding the best routes. A few well-positioned cairns proved much more helpful pointing out the faint trail now than on the way up.

Lupe was in fog most of the way back down, but every so often holes in the clouds permitted a better look at her surroundings.

Coming to a large snowbank in another gash. Mountains and glaciers pop back into view. Photo looks SE.

Snow break! Time for a bit of frolicking!

Lupe pauses for a look at the valley of the East Fork of the Skagway River. Photo looks SE.

Zoomed in on some of the incredible peaks and glaciers. Photo looks SE.

A good look down a long stretch of the AB Mountain ridge. Lupe had met Sean and Rebecca many hours ago way down at the last lowest bump of the ridge in view on the R. Taiya Inlet is seen faintly beyond Lupe. Photo looks S.

After a while, the clouds became so thick no more breaks appeared. Lupe and SPHP continued lower traveling through dense fog. It wasn’t until Lupe was working her way down the steep section that she lost enough elevation to emerge below the cloud cover.

Lupe could see Skagway now. The Explorer of the Seas and Radiance of the Seas remained in port. Sean and Rebecca were still in Skagway!

It wasn’t until Lupe was way back down to the steep section that she got below the clouds and could see Skagway again. The Explorer of the Seas and Radiance of the Seas were still in port. Sean and Rebecca were still in Skagway! Photo looks SSW.

Any hopes the Carolina Dog might have had of having pizza and drinks with the Riordans were soon dashed, however. The Explorer of the Seas was leaving! Lupe and SPHP stood watching Explorer of the Seas sail S away from Skagway down Taiya Inlet. Sean and Rebecca were probably enjoying their pizza and drinks right this very moment.

30 minutes later, Lupe saw the Radiance of the Seas follow the Explorer of the Seas away from Skagway.

Explorer of the Seas sails away from Skagway starting S down Taiya Inlet. No doubt Sean and Rebecca were aboard enjoying their pizza and drinks right this very minute.

So Lupe never did get to see Sean and Rebecca again. They sailed away on adventures of their own. Lupe’s fabulous expedition up AB Mountain had been successful. The Carolina Dog had made it all the long, long way to the true summit. Lupe had joined the Arctic Sisterhood! Tomorrow would bring another fantastic northern adventure worthy of any official new member.

Down in the dark forest, dusk faded to the unbroken blackness of a starless night. Lupe and SPHP traveled on through the gloom until at long last, the A.B. Mountain sign appeared in the flashlight’s beam at the start of the trail. Lupe crossed the road to the G6, ready for Alpo and dreams of days gone by striking it rich in the faraway Klondike gold fields. (11:16 PM)

New Arctic Sisterhood member, Lupe, reports in at the Arctic Brotherhood hall in Skagway the next morning.

AB Mountain trailhead directions: From the South Klondike Highway (No. 98) take the turn onto Dyea Road (0.5 mile from Skagway, or 4 miles from US Customs). Follow Dyea Road 2 miles. Shortly before reaching the trailhead on the L (S) side of Dyea Road, you will pass a paved parking lot at a pullout on the L with a view of Skagway. Dyea road turns to gravel a little past the pullout, and the trailhead appears soon after on the L (S) side of the road. The trail starts at the A.B. Mountain sign on the other (N) side of the road directly across from the trailhead. The trailhead has room for only 3 or 4 vehicles.

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Liard River Hot Springs Provincial Park, British Columbia, Canada (8-6-17)

Day 7 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

(5:20 AM, Summit Lake, Stone Mountain Provincial Park, British Columbia) Sometime during the night, the evening’s steady rain quit. Now it was light out, but a dense fog hid everything. Lupe sawed wood peacefully under her blankie, still weary from two long days of mountain climbing.

Can you lick yourself dry? Apparently you can. Loop had done it. The Carolina Dog was toasty warm and felt completely dry, despite having returned to the G6 cold, drenched, and starving after yesterday’s crazy adventures on Mount Saint George (7,402 ft.).

No need to wonder what to do today. A day of rest was in order. A nice long drive, most of it cruising W across southern Yukon Territory was on tap. Should be a fun, relaxing day with plenty of opportunities for quick stops at beautiful places along the Alaska Highway.

SPHP turned the key. The G6 sprang to life. Headlights on, SPHP drove carefully down the slick, wet highway. Summit Pass, the dense fog, and Lupe’s grand adventures in Stone Mountain Provincial Park were left behind. The American Dingo was awake and alert now, not wanting to miss a thing (5:42 AM).

Lupe and SPHP were still in British Columbia. Loopster would have plenty to do and see before she even got to the Yukon. Her first stop was at a pullout along the Alaska Highway right before the bridge over the Racing River. Lupe had stopped here briefly on her way home last year, too. She’d been delighted to find a beautiful short walk along a grassy road hidden in the woods near the river. There were dispersed camping sites, squirrels in the trees, and at the end of the road, a viewpoint next to the gorgeous river.

Not a soul was around. The squirrels were still here. Lupe had a blast! The woods rang with the shrill joy of an enthusiastic Dingo. Only the sky and the river had changed. Last year Loop had been here in September. The Racing River had been a stunning icy blue on a mostly sunny day. Now the river was swollen with silt, a murky light gray color matching the somber sky.

Lupe at a silty, light gray **Racing River**. 11 months ago the river had been a gorgeous icy blue. Photo looks upstream (SW).

The **Racing River** wasn’t as pretty as last year, but Lupe had a blast barking at squirrels in the woods on the short walk to this viewpoint. Photo looks downstream (NE).

Loop’s next stop was at a pullout with a view of the Toad River reached shortly after entering Muncho Lake Provincial Park. The Toad River wasn’t as silty as the Racing River, but still only offered a hint of the fabulous icy blue color both it and the Racing River had been when Lupe was here in 2016.

The Alaska Highway winds up the **Toad River** valley in **Muncho Lake Provincial Park**.

Looking across the **Toad River** at a big alluvial fan.

Lupe made two more stops in Muncho Lake Provincial Park. Since the Alaska Highway passes right along the E shore of Muncho Lake, her next break from the G6 was to take a good look at the gorgeous lake itself.

**Muncho Lake** sits in a pass high in the **Muskwa Range**. The Alaska Highway follows the E shore of the lake. Photo looks N.

A gorgeous snow-capped peak sits beyond **Muncho Lake** in the direction this photo is looking. Lupe had seen it last year, but today it’s hidden by clouds. Photo looks SSW.

Lupe’s final stop along Muncho Lake was at the impressive Northern Rockies Lodge, which seems to be the center of activity in Muncho Lake Provincial Park.

The **Northern Rockies Lodge** on the E shore of **Muncho Lake** is right off the Alaska Highway, and seems to be the hub of most activity in **Muncho Lake Provincial Park**.

Lupe drops by the **Northern Rockies Lodge** in **Muncho Lake Provincial Park**. She wasn’t an official guest, so she didn’t get to go in, but she would have liked to. It looked luxurious, and American Dingoes love both adventure *and* luxury!

Lupe wasn’t an official guest at the Northern Rockies Lodge, so she didn’t get to go inside to check it out. She most definitely liked the looks of it, though, and would have gladly gone in, if SPHP hadn’t been such a cheapskate and had booked her a room. SPHP wasn’t an official guest, either, but did sneak in to pick up a brochure about flight-seeing tours.

The bush pilot flight-seeing tour to Victoria Falls in Nahanni National Park, one of the largest waterfalls in Canada, sounded absolutely spectacular! The float plane leaves right from Muncho Lake at the Northern Rockies Lodge. The tour alone was a measly $750 Canadian, and accommodations at the fabulous Northern Rockies Lodge could be included in a package deal for a little more. Loopster was all for it!

SPHP muttered something about not being in the budget, an unknown price per Dingo, and unkindly made Lupe’s disappointment even worse by taking her down to see the very float plane she might have soared off to visit Virginia Falls in.

Following the lure of the North, that was exactly what Lupe was here for!

Oh, yeah! Here was the very float plane Lupe might have soared off to Victoria Falls in!

Lupe didn’t get to fly to Victoria Falls, but then SPHP didn’t either, so at least it was fair. However, at the next stop along the Alaska Highway at Liard River Hot Springs Provincial Park, SPHP had all the fun.

It wasn’t fair at all that SPHP got to enjoy Liard River Hot Springs and Lupe didn’t, but it really wasn’t SPHP’s fault. Signs made it clear Dingoes were prohibited. Poor Looper couldn’t even take the boardwalk leading to the hot springs for a look around.

It was sort of OK. Loopster was still pretty bushed from her mountain climbing adventures the past two days. An hour’s snooze curled up in the G6 didn’t sound all bad. Besides, it had been awhile, and SPHP would return from the hot springs all fresh and clean as a sweeter-smelling more tolerable traveling companion. SPHP promised not to be gone too long. (8:48 AM, 57°F)

SPHP returned a little more than an hour later sniffing better, warm and relaxed. For only a $5 day-use fee, Liard River Hot Springs had been really unique and a great experience. SPHP was careful not to make it sound too wonderful, though, so Loop wouldn’t get jealous again.

At **Liard River Hot Springs** bathers follow this long boardwalk to get to the actual hot springs. The Liard River is some distance away (on the other side of the Alaska Highway actually) and not in view.

The boardwalk starts out crossing a natural warm water swamp.

The warm water swamp often attracts wildlife, but SPHP saw none today. On the bright side, there weren’t any mosquitoes either.

Once beyond the swamp, the boardwalk goes through a boreal spruce forest.

The boardwalk leads to a changing house next to the hot springs. There are separate rooms for the two sexes with benches and hooks, but no lights, electricity, heat, lockers or running water.

**Liard River Hot Springs** is a totally outdoor experience in a natural lush boreal spruce forest setting. So unique and beautiful!

The hot springs are divided into two sections. This is the upper section where the water has been dammed up a bit. It is only a few feet deep. The water is hottest here, coming from a very hot spring entering this pool at the far end.

This is the lower, cooler downstream pool. It’s only a few feet deep, too. It is not dammed up and drains naturally into a creek at the far end. Choose whatever water temperature you like! The water cools rapidly the farther downstream you go. Like it really hot? Stick with the upper pool.

A view of both pools and the transition between them. Beyond the far end of the upper pool, a boardwalk going L leads to a short trail to the “hanging gardens” which were closed this day due to bear activity. A boardwalk to the R leads directly to a nice outhouse style restroom.

The hot springs enter the upper pool here on the opposite bank. The boardwalk to the hanging gardens trail is in view.

Looking back at **Liard River Hot Springs** from the start of the short boardwalk to the rest rooms. What an awesome wilderness setting! For a $5 day-use fee, you can soak in the hot springs all day if you like. Such a bargain!

Heading back all warm and clean to check on Lupe. There’s a picnic ground and campground at the parking lot, too. Gates close nightly until morning, so don’t stay too late unless you intend to camp!

Once done at Liard River Hot Springs, Lupe and SPHP returned to the Alaska Highway (10:33 AM). There wouldn’t be any more long stops during the day, but Lupe would have plenty of brief opportunities to stretch her legs. Most of the time, the G6 purred its way W.

There were moments of frenzied Dingo excitement!

That crazy little Dingo could make all the racket she wanted to. If anyone was going to do any intimidating, it was this guy.

Along many miles of the Alaska Highway from Muncho Lake Provincial Park to close to Watson Lake, the forest is clear cut far back from the road on both sides. Buffalo like to graze in the resulting adjacent fields. Elsewhere, forests extend to the horizon.

Lupe saw the big gray-green Liard River.

Loop stopped to admire the beautiful **Liard River** that the hot springs are named after.

Arising in the **Pelly Mountains** of SE Yukon, the **Liard River** flows 693 miles through the **Yukon**, **British Columbia**, and **Northwest Territories**. It’s a tributary of the **Mackenzie River**, which ultimately flows N to the **Arctic Ocean** at the **Beaufort Sea**.

Lupe left British Columbia, entering Yukon Territory before arriving in the small town of Watson Lake. As she continued W, the Alaska Highway sometimes curved back into British Columbia for a while, but most of the time Lupe was in the Yukon. She saw many beautiful peaks along the way.

On the drive W across **the southern Yukon**, Lupe saw many beautiful peaks from the Alaska Highway.

Although there was lots to see on the long drive, eternal vigilance wasn’t a strict requirement.

Loop enjoys a bit of peakbagging recovery therapy.

By afternoon, the sky was no longer completely overcast. The day warmed up considerably, hitting 84°F at one point. Sunlight highlighted beauty everywhere. SPHP stopped at a picnic ground near the Morley River. Lupe had high hopes at first, but didn’t care for it in the end. Too many biting flies, bees and mosquitoes. Not enough squirrels. SPHP ate and managed to dry out some wet clothing on the G6 before hitting the road again.

Late in the afternoon, Lupe came to huge Teslin Lake.

Late afternoon found Lupe at **Teslin Lake**.

**Teslin Lake** is many miles long, but relatively narrow. The Alaska Highway follows the NE shore along the N half of the lake. Photo looks NW.

W of Teslin Lake, Lupe and SPHP finally left the Alaska Highway at Jake’s Corner, continuing W on Hwy No. 8. After crossing a long bridge over the Tagish River, SPHP pulled into a parking lot along the W bank. Apparently there are recreational facilities in this area. Lupe quickly discovered a boat ramp, and could see people around.

Lupe at a boat ramp on the W bank of the **Tagish River**. Photo looks ENE.

The Tagish River flows N into Marsh Lake. The American Dingo went up on the long bridge over the river for a look at the S end of the lake. The Yukon River flows out of the N end of Marsh Lake, but Looper couldn’t see it from here.

The S end of **Marsh Lake** from the Highway No. 8 bridge over the **Tagish River**. The **Yukon River** flows out of the N end of **Tagish Lake**, but Loop couldn’t see it from here. Photo looks N with help from the telephoto lens.

It was evening when Lupe reached Carcross, a small picturesque village. This was Sunday, so there weren’t many people around. All the tourist shops were closed, except for one restaurant where all the action was at the moment.

Lupe and SPHP took a stroll around Carcross just window shopping. SPHP said window shopping was well within budget. Loopster could window shop to her heart’s content! Most of the shops contained artwork or jewelry of one type or another. The buildings themselves were works of art!

Lupe enjoyed a window shopping extravaganza in Carcross! That SPHP sure knows how to show a Dingo a good time!

A Carcross style killer whale was on display.

Artwork and jewelry were central themes in Carcross. Even the shop buildings were works of art!

Window shopping was a nice change of pace. Lupe was soon satisfied with what she hadn’t bought. It was time to move on. Lupe and SPHP headed S from Carcross on the South Klondike Highway No. 2.

South Klondike Highway No. 2 passed along the W shore of two long mountain lakes. First came Tagish Lake. Lupe and SPHP stopped at a pullout to see Bove Island.

Lupe and SPHP stopped at a pullout along Highway No. 2 SE of Carcross where placards touted this view of **Bove Island** (L) in **Tagish Lake**. The forest had grown up so much **Bove Island** was actually only in view from a couple of specific spots. Photo looks NE.

Next up was Tutshi Lake. By the time Lupe reached Tutshi Lake, she had crossed back over the border into British Columbia again.

**Tutshi Lake** from Highway No. 2 S of Carcross. Lupe was back in **British Columbia** here. Photo looks S.

The sun was low when Lupe reached a strange land S of Tutshi Lake. The valley South Klondike Highway No. 2 was passing through widened out a great deal forming a broad basin. Mountains surrounded this relatively level, but roughly rumpled, basin at a distance. Vegetation was scarce. Trees were sparsely distributed. There seemed to be very little soil, and not much of the loose, broken rock typically seen in mountainous terrain.

Low hills having the appearance of exposed bedrock stretched across the basin among a network of numerous odd-shaped lakes of varying sizes. The sides of the mountains surrounding this weird land all appeared to be exposed bedrock to a level far above the basin floor.

The sun was getting low when Lupe left the G6 S of Tutshi Lake to investigate this very strange land. Bedrock seemed to be exposed almost everywhere, very little loose rock or soil was evident, vegetation was sparse, and a network of many odd-shaped lakes of varying sizes existed among low hills of solid rock. Photo looks E.

What an odd place! What had made it this way? This basin was unlike anything Lupe and SPHP had ever seen before. At least that’s how it seemed at first. SPHP thought for a while. A light finally went on. No, that wasn’t really true. Lupe had seen this sort of thing before, but never on such a grand scale.

Eons ago, this basin must have been buried beneath a massive glacier of gigantic proportions. Before it melted away, the glacier had scrapped the soil away down to bedrock. The glacier had been thousands of feet deep, so that even the mountainsides had been scraped clear of loose debris to a great height. Yes, that must be the explanation. It all made sense now.

The Carolina Dog seemed satisfied with this hypothesis. A day or two later, while window shopping again in Skagway, she would eventually see a poster of this unusual territory. The poster billed this region as the “Tormented Valley”, apparently a popular stop on sight-seeing tours between Skagway and Carcross.

Looking SSW across part of the **Tormented Valley**.

Lupe and SPHP continued S on Highway No. 2 passing Canadian Customs located along the W edge of the Tormented Valley. The highway left the Tormented valley going up over a hill at White Pass, before beginning a long descent into a tremendous, steep, V-shaped valley. This made sense, too. This sharp valley must have been eroded out by a once torrential river fed by the meltwaters of the ancient glacier.

Before she had lost too much elevation, Lupe passed through US customs. She had reached Alaska! Then it was down, down, down the deep, impressive valley. When it all ended, Lupe was practically at sea level. She had arrived in Skagway, Alaska.

Though the sun was long down and twilight had already faded to a considerable degree, Lupe and SPHP took an hour long stroll through Skagway. Perhaps it was only because it was sort of late on a Sunday night, but Skagway struck SPHP as a queer place. However, Lupe seemed happy enough with it. Perhaps she was simply glad to be out of the G6 again for a while, even if no one in this town except SPHP paid the least bit of attention to her.

Skagway seemed possessed of virtually no modern buildings, not even a gas station or a hotel. There was almost no traffic. The dim deserted business section was all touristy shops with an old-fashioned look to them. Posted prices reflected Skagway’s reputation as a famous tourist destination. Window shopping would be the order of the day here, too.

But everything was closed and dark, except for a few restaurants and bars. Even they were virtually empty and quiet. No crowds anywhere. A few people were out walking about in small groups of 2 or 3 engaged in low conversation. Occasionally someone shot by on a bicycle or skateboard. Everyone was young. The smell of dope rose from small gatherings seated outside old houses.

I don’t know what I was expecting of Skagway, Looper, but this wasn’t it. This joint is practically a ghost town. Wonder how you get to the ocean? Seems like it ought to be easy to find.

Oh, it’s over that way, SPHP. I can smell it. Can’t be too far. Skagway seems fine to me. What were you expecting, anyway?

Something newer, brighter, livelier, I guess. I suppose that’s all on the cruise ships. That’s how most everyone gets here you know. No doubt that’s why there’s so little traffic and no place to stay. Everyone’s on the ships. Looks like Skagway is still selling the gold rush days with all these old timey buildings.

Gold rush! What’s wrong with that? Maybe we’ll strike it rich!

Oh, nothing. Nothing at all. Except Skagway’s gold rush has been over for a long time. It’s interesting history, but we’re too late to strike it rich. Where is everyone, anyway? It’s summer! Aren’t there any cruise ships in port tonight? I didn’t expect they’d be rolling up the sidewalks at sundown here. Skagway is famous! Why, even I’d heard of it.

It’s Sunday night! Maybe tomorrow will be different?

Perhaps so, Loop. We’ll know soon enough. Doesn’t really matter if it isn’t except for one thing.

What’s that?

There better be a gas station around here somewhere. It’s a long walk to Whitehorse.