Day 7 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!
(5:20 AM, Summit Lake, Stone Mountain Provincial Park, British Columbia) Sometime during the night, the evening’s steady rain quit. Now it was light out, but a dense fog hid everything. Lupe sawed wood peacefully under her blankie, still weary from two long days of mountain climbing.
Can you lick yourself dry? Apparently you can. Loop had done it. The Carolina Dog was toasty warm and felt completely dry, despite having returned to the G6 cold, drenched, and starving after yesterday’s crazy adventures on Mount Saint George (7,402 ft.).
No need to wonder what to do today. A day of rest was in order. A nice long drive, most of it cruising W across southern Yukon Territory was on tap. Should be a fun, relaxing day with plenty of opportunities for quick stops at beautiful places along the Alaska Highway.
SPHP turned the key. The G6 sprang to life. Headlights on, SPHP drove carefully down the slick, wet highway. Summit Pass, the dense fog, and Lupe’s grand adventures in Stone Mountain Provincial Park were left behind. The American Dingo was awake and alert now, not wanting to miss a thing (5:42 AM).
Lupe and SPHP were still in British Columbia. Loopster would have plenty to do and see before she even got to the Yukon. Her first stop was at a pullout along the Alaska Highway right before the bridge over the Racing River. Lupe had stopped here briefly on her way home last year, too. She’d been delighted to find a beautiful short walk along a grassy road hidden in the woods near the river. There were dispersed camping sites, squirrels in the trees, and at the end of the road, a viewpoint next to the gorgeous river.
Not a soul was around. The squirrels were still here. Lupe had a blast! The woods rang with the shrill joy of an enthusiastic Dingo. Only the sky and the river had changed. Last year Loop had been here in September. The Racing River had been a stunning icy blue on a mostly sunny day. Now the river was swollen with silt, a murky light gray color matching the somber sky.
Loop’s next stop was at a pullout with a view of the Toad River reached shortly after entering Muncho Lake Provincial Park. The Toad River wasn’t as silty as the Racing River, but still only offered a hint of the fabulous icy blue color both it and the Racing River had been when Lupe was here in 2016.
Lupe made two more stops in Muncho Lake Provincial Park. Since the Alaska Highway passes right along the E shore of Muncho Lake, her next break from the G6 was to take a good look at the gorgeous lake itself.
Lupe’s final stop along Muncho Lake was at the impressive Northern Rockies Lodge, which seems to be the center of activity in Muncho Lake Provincial Park.
Lupe wasn’t an official guest at the Northern Rockies Lodge, so she didn’t get to go inside to check it out. She most definitely liked the looks of it, though, and would have gladly gone in, if SPHP hadn’t been such a cheapskate and had booked her a room. SPHP wasn’t an official guest, either, but did sneak in to pick up a brochure about flight-seeing tours.
The bush pilot flight-seeing tour to Victoria Falls in Nahanni National Park, one of the largest waterfalls in Canada, sounded absolutely spectacular! The float plane leaves right from Muncho Lake at the Northern Rockies Lodge. The tour alone was a measly $750 Canadian, and accommodations at the fabulous Northern Rockies Lodge could be included in a package deal for a little more. Loopster was all for it!
SPHP muttered something about not being in the budget, an unknown price per Dingo, and unkindly made Lupe’s disappointment even worse by taking her down to see the very float plane she might have soared off to visit Virginia Falls in.
Lupe didn’t get to fly to Victoria Falls, but then SPHP didn’t either, so at least it was fair. However, at the next stop along the Alaska Highway at Liard River Hot Springs Provincial Park, SPHP had all the fun.
It wasn’t fair at all that SPHP got to enjoy Liard River Hot Springs and Lupe didn’t, but it really wasn’t SPHP’s fault. Signs made it clear Dingoes were prohibited. Poor Looper couldn’t even take the boardwalk leading to the hot springs for a look around.
It was sort of OK. Loopster was still pretty bushed from her mountain climbing adventures the past two days. An hour’s snooze curled up in the G6 didn’t sound all bad. Besides, it had been awhile, and SPHP would return from the hot springs all fresh and clean as a sweeter-smelling more tolerable traveling companion. SPHP promised not to be gone too long. (8:48 AM, 57°F)
SPHP returned a little more than an hour later sniffing better, warm and relaxed. For only a $5 day-use fee, Liard River Hot Springs had been really unique and a great experience. SPHP was careful not to make it sound too wonderful, though, so Loop wouldn’t get jealous again.
Once done at Liard River Hot Springs, Lupe and SPHP returned to the Alaska Highway (10:33 AM). There wouldn’t be any more long stops during the day, but Lupe would have plenty of brief opportunities to stretch her legs. Most of the time, the G6 purred its way W.
There were moments of frenzied Dingo excitement!
Lupe saw the big gray-green Liard River.
Lupe left British Columbia, entering Yukon Territory before arriving in the small town of Watson Lake. As she continued W, the Alaska Highway sometimes curved back into British Columbia for a while, but most of the time Lupe was in the Yukon. She saw many beautiful peaks along the way.
Although there was lots to see on the long drive, eternal vigilance wasn’t a strict requirement.
By afternoon, the sky was no longer completely overcast. The day warmed up considerably, hitting 84°F at one point. Sunlight highlighted beauty everywhere. SPHP stopped at a picnic ground near the Morley River. Lupe had high hopes at first, but didn’t care for it in the end. Too many biting flies, bees and mosquitoes. Not enough squirrels. SPHP ate and managed to dry out some wet clothing on the G6 before hitting the road again.
Late in the afternoon, Lupe came to huge Teslin Lake.
W of Teslin Lake, Lupe and SPHP finally left the Alaska Highway at Jake’s Corner, continuing W on Hwy No. 8. After crossing a long bridge over the Tagish River, SPHP pulled into a parking lot along the W bank. Apparently there are recreational facilities in this area. Lupe quickly discovered a boat ramp, and could see people around.
The Tagish River flows N into Marsh Lake. The American Dingo went up on the long bridge over the river for a look at the S end of the lake. The Yukon River flows out of the N end of Marsh Lake, but Looper couldn’t see it from here.
It was evening when Lupe reached Carcross, a small picturesque village. This was Sunday, so there weren’t many people around. All the tourist shops were closed, except for one restaurant where all the action was at the moment.
Lupe and SPHP took a stroll around Carcross just window shopping. SPHP said window shopping was well within budget. Loopster could window shop to her heart’s content! Most of the shops contained artwork or jewelry of one type or another. The buildings themselves were works of art!
Window shopping was a nice change of pace. Lupe was soon satisfied with what she hadn’t bought. It was time to move on. Lupe and SPHP headed S from Carcross on the South Klondike Highway No. 2.
South Klondike Highway No. 2 passed along the W shore of two long mountain lakes. First came Tagish Lake. Lupe and SPHP stopped at a pullout to see Bove Island.
Next up was Tutshi Lake. By the time Lupe reached Tutshi Lake, she had crossed back over the border into British Columbia again.
The sun was low when Lupe reached a strange land S of Tutshi Lake. The valley South Klondike Highway No. 2 was passing through widened out a great deal forming a broad basin. Mountains surrounded this relatively level, but roughly rumpled, basin at a distance. Vegetation was scarce. Trees were sparsely distributed. There seemed to be very little soil, and not much of the loose, broken rock typically seen in mountainous terrain.
Low hills having the appearance of exposed bedrock stretched across the basin among a network of numerous odd-shaped lakes of varying sizes. The sides of the mountains surrounding this weird land all appeared to be exposed bedrock to a level far above the basin floor.
What an odd place! What had made it this way? This basin was unlike anything Lupe and SPHP had ever seen before. At least that’s how it seemed at first. SPHP thought for a while. A light finally went on. No, that wasn’t really true. Lupe had seen this sort of thing before, but never on such a grand scale.
Eons ago, this basin must have been buried beneath a massive glacier of gigantic proportions. Before it melted away, the glacier had scrapped the soil away down to bedrock. The glacier had been thousands of feet deep, so that even the mountainsides had been scraped clear of loose debris to a great height. Yes, that must be the explanation. It all made sense now.
The Carolina Dog seemed satisfied with this hypothesis. A day or two later, while window shopping again in Skagway, she would eventually see a poster of this unusual territory. The poster billed this region as the “Tormented Valley”, apparently a popular stop on sight-seeing tours between Skagway and Carcross.
Lupe and SPHP continued S on Highway No. 2 passing Canadian Customs located along the W edge of the Tormented Valley. The highway left the Tormented valley going up over a hill at White Pass, before beginning a long descent into a tremendous, steep, V-shaped valley. This made sense, too. This sharp valley must have been eroded out by a once torrential river fed by the meltwaters of the ancient glacier.
Before she had lost too much elevation, Lupe passed through US customs. She had reached Alaska! Then it was down, down, down the deep, impressive valley. When it all ended, Lupe was practically at sea level. She had arrived in Skagway, Alaska.
Though the sun was long down and twilight had already faded to a considerable degree, Lupe and SPHP took an hour long stroll through Skagway. Perhaps it was only because it was sort of late on a Sunday night, but Skagway struck SPHP as a queer place. However, Lupe seemed happy enough with it. Perhaps she was simply glad to be out of the G6 again for a while, even if no one in this town except SPHP paid the least bit of attention to her.
Skagway seemed possessed of virtually no modern buildings, not even a gas station or a hotel. There was almost no traffic. The dim deserted business section was all touristy shops with an old-fashioned look to them. Posted prices reflected Skagway’s reputation as a famous tourist destination. Window shopping would be the order of the day here, too.
But everything was closed and dark, except for a few restaurants and bars. Even they were virtually empty and quiet. No crowds anywhere. A few people were out walking about in small groups of 2 or 3 engaged in low conversation. Occasionally someone shot by on a bicycle or skateboard. Everyone was young. The smell of dope rose from small gatherings seated outside old houses.
I don’t know what I was expecting of Skagway, Looper, but this wasn’t it. This joint is practically a ghost town. Wonder how you get to the ocean? Seems like it ought to be easy to find.
Oh, it’s over that way, SPHP. I can smell it. Can’t be too far. Skagway seems fine to me. What were you expecting, anyway?
Something newer, brighter, livelier, I guess. I suppose that’s all on the cruise ships. That’s how most everyone gets here you know. No doubt that’s why there’s so little traffic and no place to stay. Everyone’s on the ships. Looks like Skagway is still selling the gold rush days with all these old timey buildings.
Gold rush! What’s wrong with that? Maybe we’ll strike it rich!
Oh, nothing. Nothing at all. Except Skagway’s gold rush has been over for a long time. It’s interesting history, but we’re too late to strike it rich. Where is everyone, anyway? It’s summer! Aren’t there any cruise ships in port tonight? I didn’t expect they’d be rolling up the sidewalks at sundown here. Skagway is famous! Why, even I’d heard of it.
It’s Sunday night! Maybe tomorrow will be different?
Perhaps so, Loop. We’ll know soon enough. Doesn’t really matter if it isn’t except for one thing.
What’s that?
There better be a gas station around here somewhere. It’s a long walk to Whitehorse.
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