Sukakpak Mountain, Brooks Range, Alaska (8-13-16)

Day 15, Part 2 of Lupe’s Summer of 2016 Dingo Vacation to the Canadian Rockies, Yukon & Alaska.

Dead ahead!  There it was – the most famous mountain along the Dalton Highway in the Brooks Range of northern Alaska – Sukakpak!  Lupe was thousands of miles from home, over 90 miles N of where the Dalton Highway crossed the Arctic Circle.  Sukakpak Mountain (4,459 ft.) was one of the top highlights Lupe had come all this way to see.

Lupe 200 miles N of the start of the Dalton Highway, and 90 miles N of the Arctic Circle, approaching famed Sukakpak Mountain in the Brooks Range. Photo looks NE.
Sukakpak Mountain, Brooks Range, Alaska
Sukakpak Mountain, Brooks Range, Alaska

After all the many months of planning and long miles, it was still hard to believe Lupe was really, actually here!  SPHP drove slowly past the mountain, to see it from various angles.  After crossing the Dietrich River near its confluence with the Bettles River, SPHP parked the G6 at a pullout near milepost 207.  Lupe went over to the Bettles River for a drink, and to admire Sukakpak from the N.

Lupe at the Bettles River with Sukakpak Mountain in the background. Photo looks S.
Sukakpak Mountain from the Bettles River. Photo looks S.
Sukakpak Mountain from the Bettles River. Photo looks S.

Of course, being an American Dingo of the peakbagging variety, Lupe was here to do more than just admire Sukakpak, she was here to climb it!

It was already late in the day to consider climbing such a large peak, but Lupe and SPHP were full of enthusiasm.  The weather was good, 60°F with thin white clouds, and only a light breeze.  Furthermore, this far N the sun wouldn’t go down until very late.  Even twilight would last a long time.

SPHP had a copy of a trip report from Peakbagger.com written by Richard Carey, who had climbed Sukakpak more than 21 years ago on July 30, 1995.  It would serve as a guide.  Lupe and SPHP returned S to a pullout near milepost 203 located W of Sukakpak Mountain.  It was the obvious, easiest place to begin any ascent of Sukakpak, and was where Carey had started from.  At 1:11 PM, Lupe left the G6, and headed E for the mountain.

Sukakpak Mountain from the pullout near milepost 203 of the Dalton Highway where Lupe started her trek. Photo looks ENE.
Sukakpak Mountain from the pullout near milepost 203 of the Dalton Highway where Lupe started her trek. Photo looks ENE.

The plan was to head SE toward the S end of Sukakpak, as recommended by Carey, but that route proved to be marshy as Carey had indicated.  It seemed easier to head straight E toward the mountain following higher, drier ground until Lupe got above the marshlands.  Lupe gained a fair amount of elevation just getting close to the rock base of Sukakpak.

Approaching the W face of Sukakpak. Photo looks ENE.
Approaching the W face of Sukakpak. Photo looks ENE.

When Lupe was high enough to be above all the swampy ground, she turned SSE, still climbing steadily.  As she got closer to the S end of the mountain, she was approaching a steep chute that looked like it might be a shortcut.  Carey had recommended heading toward a gash caused by a landslide at the S end of the mountain.  Maybe this chute was what he had been talking about?  Lupe headed for it.

Lupe now above the swampy ground, and not too far below the steep W rock face. Here she turned SSE working her way toward the SW end of the mountain. The start of the lower end of “The Chute” can be seen almost straight up from Lupe at the base of the rock face. Photo looks SSE.

Lupe and SPHP started climbing up the chute.  To the S was a wall of rock, to the N, the massive S face of Sukakpak.  The chute was steep, full of boulders and small trees, but not too hard a climb.  The view back to the W was steadily improving as Lupe gained elevation.

Lupe on her way up toward the chute at the SW end of Sukakpak. Photo looks NW.
Looking up toward the start of the “The Chute”. Photo looks SE.

The hope was that Lupe would be able to easily pass around the S side of Sukakpak from the top of the chute.  However, the chute was higher and longer than SPHP anticipated.  When Lupe finally reached the top, the situation was more complicated than expected.

Not far away to the SE was a boulder field, and beyond it a forest.  Both rose toward the E, and were clearly viable paths along the S end of Sukakpak.  Unfortunately, there was a minor drop-off to get over to that terrain.  Lupe wouldn’t have any problem negotiating it, but despite not being very high, the drop-off looked treacherous to SPHP.

Maybe it was possible to climb high enough to get beyond the drop-off?  It looked like a reasonable proposition.  Lupe and SPHP left the chute traversing SE toward the easier ground, climbing steadily while looking for a way over to it.

The climb was steep and getting steeper.  It kept looking like the slope would diminish just a little higher up the mountain, but it didn’t.  Over every little rise was another disappointment.  Soon SPHP was hanging onto bushes and anything within reach for support.  Lupe was fine.  She kept appearing above SPHP, looking down with a questioning look on her face.

SPHP wasn’t getting any closer to the safer ground.  In fact, things were getting worse.  The situation became unnerving.  Above, only a scary steep rock slope could be seen.

Loopster, we can’t keep going this way!  Sorry, puppy, but we are rapidly getting into trouble.  I can’t do this, and a mistake would be terrible.  We have to go back down, now!

Slowly, carefully, all the way back down to the chute, then back down it, too.  Lupe lost hundreds of feet of elevation.  What, close to two hours wasted on the chute?  Seemed like it.  However, long it had taken, the chute had been a real setback.  Either Carey’s momma was a mountain goat, or there was a better way.

Was there still time to climb Sukakpak, today?  SPHP wasn’t certain.  May as well try it, though.  Lupe could always turn back, if it was getting too late.  Below the chute, Lupe and SPHP slowly traversed the boulder field to the S.  Lupe finally reached the forest, where it was easier to turn E and start climbing again.

After a considerable climb, the ground leveled out as Lupe topped out on a ridge heading S from Sukakpak’s S face.  The view from the top was discouraging.  SPHP had thought this ridge would lead directly to the easiest way up Sukakpak.  To the N, though, there was a very steep rock slope.  Farther E, across a deep drainage, was another ridge like the one Lupe was on, except it was considerably larger and higher.

Lupe reaches the top of the lower minor S ridge. The larger and higher main S ridge is seen across a deep drainage. Lupe would have to lose a lot of elevation to cross the drainage and get over there. Photo looks E.
Lupe reaches the top of the lower minor S ridge. The larger and higher main S ridge is seen across a deep drainage. Lupe would have to lose a lot of elevation to cross the drainage and get over there. Photo looks E.
Looking up the steep S face of Sukakpak, from somewhere close to the minor S ridge. Carey's trip report indicated it was possible to go up this way, but recommended starting up from the main S ridge farther E instead. SPHP rejected the route seen here as too challenging. Lupe headed for the main ridge, even though it meant losing a bunch of elevation crossing the intervening drainage. Photo looks NNE.
Looking up the steep S face of Sukakpak, from somewhere close to the minor S ridge. Carey’s trip report indicated it was possible to go up this way, but recommended starting up from the main S ridge farther E instead. SPHP rejected the route seen here as too challenging. Lupe headed for the main ridge, even though it meant losing a bunch of elevation crossing the intervening drainage. Photo looks NNE.

Lupe took a little break while SPHP consulted the Carey trip report.  Ugh!  This must be the first ridgeline.  Yeah, Lupe was just above tree line.  Carey said it was possible to go up from here, but easier to contour around the creek drainage to get to the main ridge.  Up from here looked really hard.  No way SPHP could do that.  Lupe would have to go to the main ridge.

Lupe was already so high, and the terrain at the N end of the creek drainage so steep, there wasn’t a lot of contouring to be done.  Before climbing even higher up to the main ridge, Lupe was going to have to lose a bunch of elevation again crossing the drainage.  No other reasonable choice.  OK, whatever.  Puppy, ho!  Onward!

At least navigating through the drainage wasn’t difficult.  It was all straightforward.  Down and around, then up.  Long and tiring, but not scary or impossible.  Lupe made it to the main ridge.

View looking back from the main S ridge. High point 2929 is the big barren hill on the L. The lower minor S ridge of Sukakpak is in view on the R. The Dalton Highway and Middle Fork of the Koyukuk River are seen in the distance. Photo looks SW.
View looking back from the main S ridge. High point 2929 is the big barren hill on the L. The lower minor S ridge of Sukakpak is in view on the R. The Dalton Highway and Middle Fork of the Koyukuk River are seen in the distance. Photo looks SW.

The main ridge was interesting.  It was large, long, roomy, and gently rounded at the top.  It stretched for 2 or 3 miles to the SSE, gradually losing elevation.  Lupe found sizable rock formations at the top, but most of the ground was even and covered with small rocks and plants of the tundra.  On the other side of this main ridge, Lupe had a huge sweeping view toward the E of the broad Bettles River valley and many mountains beyond it.

Lupe at the rock formations on top of the higher, main S ridge extending SSE from Sukakpak. From here, Lupe gazes out at the Bettles River valley on the opposite side of the ridge from where she came up. Photo looks SE.
Lupe at the rock formations on top of the higher, main S ridge extending SSE from Sukakpak. From here, Lupe gazes out at the Bettles River valley on the opposite side of the ridge from where she came up. Photo looks SE.
Bettles River valley from the SSE main ridge of Sukakpak. Photo looks ESE.
Bettles River valley from the SSE main ridge of Sukakpak. Photo looks ESE.

Just N of where Lupe reached the main ridge, it joined the steep, rocky S face of Sukakpak.  The only way up from here was N.  Nearly all vegetation was about to be left behind.  The slope looked steep, but it wasn’t as bad as going up from the lower ridge to the W.  There was a sort of trail, too.  It wasn’t maintained in any way, or really of much help, other than as a general guide as to where to start.

Lupe on the main ridge at the base of the S rock face of Sukakpak. A faint trail can be seen starting almost straight above her head. The trail went a little to the R, then zigged well to the L, before zagging back toward the top. This is the easiest way up! Photo looks N.
Lupe on the main ridge at the base of the S rock face of Sukakpak. A faint trail can be seen almost straight above her head. The trail went a little to the R, then zigged well to the L, before zagging back toward the top. This is the easiest way up! Photo looks N.

The route up was plenty steep, especially near the start.  The trail was often braided and full of loose rocks.  Up and up, Lupe went.  The panoramic views of the Brooks Range were becoming incredible.  The sense of being at a great height grew steadily.  Completely unfazed, the Carolina Dog led the way up the mountain, gaining hundreds of feet of elevation.

Gradually, the slope lessened.  Lupe arrived up on a roomy, rounded area that wasn’t completely flat, but not steep at all either.  Close at hand to the W, SPHP did not see, but only perceived, the presence of towering cliffs.  The terrain to the E was also mostly unseen, but perceived to be an incredibly steep slope dropping a thousand feet or more.  Very close to the NNE was a small ridge, not high at all – 10 or 20 feet, which could be easily walked up.  The ridge led up to the W, connecting to a nearby high point immediately to the N.

What would Lupe see on the other side of that small ridge?  Suddenly filled with both hope and apprehension, SPHP followed the unconcerned American Dingo up onto the little NNE ridge.  Unmistakable, half a mile to the NNE, there it was – the true summit of Sukakpak!  It wasn’t all that much higher, a few hundreds of feet. Lupe was almost there!

Lupe on the small ridge she had climbed up from the SSW. (This is actually part of the long ridge leading SE from the false S summit seen on the L.) The true summit of Sukakpak is still 0.5 mile away to the NNE on the R. Lupe was almost there! Photo looks N.
Lupe on the small ridge she had climbed up from the SSW. (This is actually part of the long ridge leading SE from the false S summit seen on the L.) The true summit of Sukakpak is still 0.5 mile away to the NNE on the R. Lupe was almost there! Photo looks N.

Off to the NW, a slightly lower S summit was in view, too.  Lupe was closer to it.  A faint trail was visible traversing the barren, upper E slope below the S summit to a saddle between the two high points.  The trail continued all the way to the true summit.

Climbing W on the little ridge to the closest high point, perhaps only 50 feet higher than where Lupe was now, was clearly the only route from here toward the trail below the S summit.  Lupe and SPHP started up.  The ridge narrowed as Lupe got close to the top.  Right on up went Lupe, but SPHP crouched down before the final few steps, ultimately collapsing against the rocks a foot or two below the absolute top.

Just as tightly as SPHP gripped the rocks, fear gripped SPHP.  Lupe came close, to see what was the matter.  Petting her helped a little.  The views were daunting enough.  What was only sensed, but still unseen was terrifying.  To the N, the steep slope of the E face of Sukakpak dropped away ever more steeply many hundreds of feet into the abyss.  That could be seen.  Just 2 or 3 feet W of Lupe, were perceived, but unseen precipices of towering height.

A narrow, level ridge, a couple feet wide, extended to the NW for 20 feet to a rise only inches high.  To the R (NE) of it was the start of the long slide into the abyss.  To the L (SW), the unseen precipice.  Close by, nothing could be seen beyond the little rise 20 feet away.  Farther off, the ridge clearly continued for quite a distance, rising ultimately to the false S summit.

Taking the narrow, level ridge would be like walking the plank.  What was beyond the little rise?  SPHP feared a drop-off of some sort.  Climbing straight down a wall of rock even a short distance from such a narrow perch was virtually unthinkable.  Lupe and SPHP were only day hikers, not mountaineers!  There was nothing at home in the Black Hills like this to compare with.  What was Lupe doing up on this little point of rock in the sky N of the Arctic Circle!?

Minutes ticked away.  At a vast height, Lupe and SPHP sat immobile, surrounded by fabulous wild mountains of the Brooks Range in the Arctic.  Yet, courage could not be summoned.  The monster, Fear, only grew.

I’m sorry, Loop.  I’m truly sorry!  I can’t do this.  It’s too much.  I know you could have made it, and you are so very close, sweet puppy, so very, very close, but I need to go down.  Let’s try to get a photo or two, first.  It’s over.

A few quick photos at the top, and Lupe and SPHP started back down.  If Lupe was disappointed, she didn’t show it.  Fifty feet lower, back where Lupe had first climbed onto this part of the ridge, SPHP had her pose with the true summit of Sukakpak in the background.  It was to be her souvenir photo showing how very close to success Lupe had been.

As close as Lupe got before SPHP led her back down. The slightly lower S summit is seen on the L, the true summit more distant on the R. Part of the narrow "plank" beyond which SPHP could not see the nearby terrain, heads off to the L from Lupe. Photo looks NW.
As close as Lupe got before SPHP led her back down. The slightly lower S summit is seen on the L, the true summit more distant on the R. Part of the narrow “plank” beyond which SPHP could not see the nearby terrain, heads off to the L from Lupe. Photo looks NW.
Dillon Mountain (4,820 ft.) to the NNE.
Dillon Mountain (4,820 ft.) (Center) to the NNE.
Bettles River valley. Photo looks ESE.
Bettles River valley. Photo looks ESE.
Lupe where she first reached the ridge above the roomy, rounded area. The valley between Dillon Mountain (L), and Wiehl Mountain (partly out of view on the R) is seen beyond her. Photo looks NE.
Lupe where she first reached the ridge above the roomy, rounded area. The valley between Dillon Mountain (L), and Wiehl Mountain (partly out of view on the R) is seen beyond her. Photo looks NE.
Lupe's souvenir shot showing how very close to reaching the summit of Sukakpak she had gotten. Photo looks NNW.
Lupe’s souvenir shot showing how very close to reaching the summit of Sukakpak she had gotten. Photo looks NNW.

Only a couple of steps down off Point Fear, a tremendous sense of relief flooded into SPHP.  Yeah, it was too bad Lupe didn’t get to finish her climb of Sukakpak, but not doing something stupid was just smart.  She had gotten to see the mountain, and make 90% of the climb.  Just being here, seeing Sukakpak, getting this far, and seeing these awe (not to mention, terror) -inspiring views was a tremendous accomplishment.  It was something Lupe and SPHP would always remember.

Even SPHP didn’t believe that crap.  For 10 minutes, SPHP apologized profusely to Lupe.  She paid close attention, but only seemed bewildered.  She licked SPHP’s hand, trying to make it better.

After the souvenir photos were taken, Lupe and SPHP left the little ridge and went back down to the roomy, rounded area.  To the S was the increasingly steep slope leading way back down to Sukakpak’s main ridge extending SSE.  Time to descend.

Lupe on the roomy, rounded area near its SW edge. The Middle Fork of the Koyukuk River and Dalton Highway are in view below. Photo looks SW.
Lupe on the roomy, rounded area near its SW edge. The Middle Fork of the Koyukuk River and Dalton Highway are in view below. Photo looks SW.

SPHP hesitated.  Lupe gazed up wonderingly.  She was smiling.  What was the hold up?  What was going on?  There was a problem.  SPHP couldn’t go down.  Fear lay in that direction, too – a fear that was growing fast.  Not the fear of falling, but yes, still the fear of doing something stupid.

Fear of regret, fear of failure, were both waiting to ambush SPHP only a little farther down the mountain.  And SPHP knew it.  If SPHP went down any farther, it was certain Lupe would never be back to claim success.  Yes, Lupe and SPHP would always remember being here, on glorious Sukakpak Mountain so close to triumph – and SPHP would always remember being a coward.

Lupe was more than 3,000 miles from home.  She had come all this way to Sukakpak Mountain to climb it.  The summit of Sukakpak, the most famous mountain along the Dalton Highway, way up here N of the Arctic Circle, had been the most coveted of all the mountaintops SPHP had hoped Lupe would be able to reach on her long Summer of 2016 Dingo Vacation.  It was to have been her crowning glory.

A mental war raged.  SPHP hadn’t even seen the feared drop at the far end of the “plank”.  Was it even real?  Conditions were perfect for climbing Sukakpak – no wind, no snow, no ice, comfortable temperatures, blue skies and little white clouds.  Carey hadn’t mentioned any technical aspects to the route in his trip report, surely he would have if there were any, wouldn’t he?  Maybe not.  Carey had been to Nepal, climbed Denali and Kilimanjaro.  No doubt Sukakpak was mere child’s play to him.

One of the things bugging SPHP was the feeling that maybe Lupe wasn’t really on the correct route.  It seemed like she had to be, but mountains can be tricky.  Did the cliffs to the SW of Fear Point exist, or was there an easier way up from that direction?  Lupe and SPHP went over near the edge of the roomy, rounded area to take a look.  Still nervous, SPHP got only close enough to see that those cliffs were real enough.  No way in hell would anyone go up that way.

Loopster, let’s try again.  No guarantees, but let’s take another look.  I’ve at least got to see what it is I’m afraid of.  Maybe I can do that much now.  Lupe was game.  She always is, for anything not totally nuts.

The second time up was easier.  Fear made SPHP crouch again a little near the top, but did not pin SPHP to the ground.  SPHP walked out onto the fearsome “plank”.  Two or three steps, then … JOY!  Jubilation!

Loop, LOOP!  You’re going to make it, sweet puppy!  We’re on our way!  OMG, to think we almost left!  It would have been an epic fail!

What SPHP saw beyond the inches high rise at the end of the plank was a slight dip, nothing more.  There was no big drop.  That was all a figment of SPHP’s imagination.  A step down or two, that was it!  A clear, though seldom-used trail stretched NW along the narrow ridgeline, on the way toward the S summit.  Lupe and SPHP made rapid, joy-filled progress.

Nearing the S summit, Lupe did reach one significant drop.  The drop was about 10 feet down from a ledge, but near the end of the ledge were a few naturally well-positioned big rocks.  SPHP climbed down carefully, but easily enough.  Lupe jumped down from one rock to the next.  Lupe was now quite close to the S summit.  The path to the true summit was wide open and unobstructed ahead.

Nearing the false S summit (L). Nothing stands in Lupe's way to the true summit (R) now! Photo looks NNW.
Nearing the false S summit (L). Nothing stands in Lupe’s way to the true summit (R) now! Photo looks NNW.

The trail didn’t go up the S summit, instead skirting it to the E.  Lupe stayed on the trail.  Soon she was beyond the S summit.  To the N was Lupe’s long sought objective, the true summit of Sukakpak.  To the W was a long line of giant cliffs.  No matter, the trail just stayed a little to the E.

Now past the false S summit, Lupe follows the easy trail to success. What a fun, awesome, happy trek this was! Photo looks NNW.
Now past the false S summit, Lupe follows the easy trail to success. What a fun, awesome, happy trek this was! Photo looks NNW.
The W cliffs were very close to the trail at one point. Lupe could see the Middle Fork of the Koyukuk River and the Dalton Highway 3,000 feet below. Photo looks W.
The W cliffs were very close to the trail at one point. Lupe could see the Middle Fork of the Koyukuk River and the Dalton Highway 3,000 feet below. Photo looks W.

The whole trek from the “plank” to the summit of Sukakpak Mountain was amazing, easy, full of joy, happiness, and breath-taking views.  A short scramble up a slope of loose dirt and rock brought Lupe to the top.  Success, wonderful, stupendous, glorious, success!  Lupe was here, at the summit of Sukakpak!

Yes, yes, YES! Lupe at the summit cairn on Sukakpak Mountain. Photo looks N.
Yes, yes, YES! Lupe at the summit cairn on Sukakpak Mountain. Photo looks N.

Lupe on Sukakpak Mountain, Brooks Range, AK 8-13-16

Looking along the jagged NNW ridge of Sukakpak from the summit cairn. Below on the R, the confluence of the Dietrich and Bettles River to form the Middle Fork of the Koyukuk River can be seen. The distant mountain on the R side of the photo is the mountain Lupe and SPHP came to call the Mountain of the Midnight Sun. Photo looks N.
Looking along the jagged NNW ridge of Sukakpak from the summit cairn. Below on the R, the confluence of the Dietrich and Bettles River to form the Middle Fork of the Koyukuk River can be seen. The distant mountain on the R side of the photo is the mountain Lupe and SPHP came to call the Mountain of the Midnight Sun. Photo looks N.

There were cliffs immediately to the W and N of the summit.  The cairn sat at the top of the mountain on a tiny area with little extra room.  Lupe and SPHP relaxed a foot or two below and SE of the cairn.  The unfamiliar feeling of having conquered fear added to the joy of being here.  All around were mountains of the Brooks Range, bathed in the slanting sunlight of the far N.  Lupe was really here, way up on Sukakpak in the Arctic!

SPHP praised Lupe and stroked her soft fur.  She listened very carefully.  She was soothed so much, she soon dozed at SPHP’s side.  Wonderful, tired puppy!  All around were tremendous views Lupe and SPHP would most likely never see again.  SPHP thought about the long journey that brought Lupe here, adventures from long ago, adventures yet to come, the relentless, unmerciful passage of time.

45 precious, beautiful minutes ticked by.  It was getting late.  Lupe was ready.  A few more pictures were in order before leaving the splendor of Sukakpak.

Looking S from the summit. Part of the trail, the lower S summit, and much of the long, narrow ridge Lupe had to climb are in view. Even the more gently rounded, lower green "main" ridge is seen far below on the L trailing off to the SSE.
Looking S from the summit. Part of the trail, the lower S summit, and much of the long, narrow ridge Lupe had to climb are in view. Even the more gently rounded, lower green “main” ridge is seen far below on the L trailing off to the SSE.
Looking SW at mountains of the Brooks Range. The Dalton Highway and Middle Fork of the Koyukuk River are 3,000 feet below.
Looking SW at mountains of the Brooks Range. The Dalton Highway and Middle Fork of the Koyukuk River are 3,000 feet below.
Looking S, possibly at Poss Mountain (6,180 ft.) using the telephoto lens. The 10 foot drop Lupe and SPHP had to negotiate on the ridgeline is in view in the foreground near (Center).
Looking S, possibly at Poss Mountain (6,180 ft.) (Center) using the telephoto lens. The 10 foot drop Lupe and SPHP had to negotiate on the ridgeline is in view in the foreground near (Center).  The trail leads right to it.
The lower S summit of Sukakpak is bathed in sunlight on the L. Much lower down is bare, rounded High Point 2929 (Center). Photo looks SSW.
The lower S summit of Sukakpak is bathed in sunlight on the L. Much lower down is bare, rounded High Point 2929 (Center). Photo looks SSW.
Lupe near the summit cairn, before saying good-bye to Sukakpak. Photo looks NNW.

There was no other plausible way back, other than the way Lupe had come up.  The return trip was incredible, and still a little scary, but Lupe and SPHP had no problems.  It was a fun, happy, spectacularly beautiful time together.

Starting back, still near the true summit. Looking SSW along the trail.
Starting back, still near the true summit. Looking SSW along the trail.
Now below and SE of the S summit. Going down the long SE ridge which eventually leads to SPHP's "plank" and Point Fear. Bettles River is seen on the L.
Now below and SE of the S summit. Going down the long SE ridge which eventually leads to SPHP’s “plank” and Point Fear. Bettles River is seen on the L.
Lupe makes it back down to the start of the higher "main" SSE ridge at the base of the S face of Sukakpak. Photo looks ENE toward Wiehl Mountain.
Lupe makes it back down to the start of the higher “main” SSE ridge at the base of the S face of Sukakpak. Photo looks ENE toward Wiehl Mountain.

Once down at the start of the higher, main SSE ridge at the base of the S face of the mountain, all the scarier parts of the return trip were over.  Lupe just had to go W down into the drainage, then back up to the lower S ridge she had been on much earlier in the day.  From there it was downhill all the way.  Lupe and SPHP passed through forest, boulder fields, and finally, way down below, the swampy ground leading to the G6 (12:08 AM).

Twilight at 11:55 PM nearing the G6.
Twilight at 11:55 PM nearing the G6.

After midnight, still light in the sky!  The Arctic was such an amazing place.  What a day it had been – the Dalton Highway, crossing the Yukon River, Finger Mountain, reaching the Arctic Circle, and finally – the never to be forgotten moments of fear, cowardice, courage and joy climbing Sukakpak Mountain!

Lupe on her way back to the G6 atop the rock formations on the SSE main ridge below the S face of Sukakpak, Brooks Range, Alaska 8-13-16.
Lupe on her way back to the G6 atop the rock formations on the SSE main ridge below the S face of Sukakpak, Brooks Range, Alaska 8-13-16.

Many thanks to Richard Carey, whose Sukakpak Mountain trip report on Peakbagger.com both inspired and helped make this Lupe adventure come true.

Related Links:

Next Adventure                               Prior Adventure

Lupe’s Last Mile North, Brooks Range, Alaska (8-14-16)

Dillon Mountain, Brooks Range, Alaska (8-15-16)

Want more Lupe adventures?  Choose from Lupe’s 2016 Canadian Rockies, Yukon & Alaska Adventure IndexDingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index.  Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Dingo of the Midnight Sun – Crossing the Yukon River, Finger Mountain & The Arctic Circle (8-13-16)

Day 14 & Day 15 (Part 1) of Lupe’s Summer of 2016 Dingo Vacation to the Canadian Rockies, Yukon & Alaska.

Rain, rain, rain!  It had been raining most of the night, and it was raining now, harder than at any time yesterday.  It was so early, Lupe was still conked out.  Dark clouds hid the mountains and the Worthington Glacier, where Lupe had such a great adventure yesterday.

Clearly, the Carolina Dog’s luck at the Worthington Glacier wasn’t going to be repeated again today anywhere near the S Alaskan coast.  A week of rain was in the forecast.  Time to head inland.  Maybe it wasn’t so wet there?  As soon as the G6 was ready, Lupe and SPHP drove N on the Richardson Highway, hoping to drive out of the weather before reaching Glennallen.

About 10 miles before even reaching Glennallen, SPHP pulled into the parking lot for the Wrangell – St. Elias National Park & Preserve visitor center.  It was still raining, but not as hard as before.  The clouds weren’t as dark, either, although they still blanketed the entire sky.  Lupe waited in the G6, while SPHP went into the visitor center to see if they had a near term weather forecast for this part of Alaska.

SPHP interrupted three idle rangers chatting among themselves behind the information desk.  Did they have a weather forecast?  Rain for the next 10 days, and more after that, responded a bored female ranger.  Alaska’s best days of the summer of 2016 were history now.  It was just going to get colder and darker, she said.  What about farther N, did they have a forecast for Fairbanks?  Even colder and darker, there she replied.

SPHP returned to Lupe in the G6.  Sorry about the wait, Loop!  That was a complete waste of time.  No specifics, other than more rain is expected.  The ranger didn’t care, and knew next to nothing.  Any lame brain would know that it would get colder and darker as summer fades to autumn in Alaska.  Maybe we will find out something in Glennallen.

Hah, fat chance!  At the Glennallen visitor center at the intersection of the Richardson and Glenn Highways, the story was almost the same.  At least the lady at the information desk exhibited some energy and interest, but all she said was that it was raining in the entire state of Alaska, and had been rainy for weeks.  She too, expected more rain, but had zero specifics.  What about the weather in Fairbanks?  Yup, raining there too, she insisted.

Gah, she had no clue either!  Alaska is a vast territory.  It was hardly possible it was raining in the whole state.  Still, it left SPHP wondering what to do.  Should Lupe go farther N hoping to find better weather, hang around here for who knew how many days waiting for the rain to stop, or just give up on Alaska all together, and go back to Canada and the Yukon?

Leaving Alaska now would be a shame!  Lupe had come all this way, and had so many Alaskan adventures on her list of possibilities!  SPHP left the building pondering the situation.  A man followed SPHP outside.

The man introduced himself as the owner of Alaskan Quest, based in Fairbanks.  His name was Kent Kaiser.  He had overheard the conversation.  Kent said he had just come from Fairbanks.  Although it had been unusually rainy this summer there, it was sunny when he left Fairbanks this morning.  Better yet, 10 more days of sun were in the forecast!  SPHP thanked Kent for the tip.

It was all SPHP needed to hear.  Loopster, good news!  You’re heading N!  After gassing up the G6, Lupe and SPHP continued N on the Richardson Highway.

The weather didn’t improve.  The farther N Lupe got, the harder it rained, and the darker the clouds became.  Not a speck of blue sky appeared anywhere.  Lupe went past high mountains, a forlorn, dreary-looking Summit Lake, and big rivers.  Some of the creeks were out of their banks.  SPHP began to wonder.

Looking W from the Richardson Highway N of Glennallen.
Looking W from the Richardson Highway N of Glennallen.

Eventually, though, conditions did improve.  The rain slackened, then quit.  A tiny speck of blue appeared in the sky to the N.  The blue spread, as Lupe and SPHP neared Delta Junction.  By the time Lupe and SPHP stopped at a McDonald’s in North Pole to share a couple of cheeseburgers, a glorious pale blue sky stretched from horizon to horizon.

Lupe and SPHP reached Fairbanks, which turned out to be an attractive city.  Fairbanks wasn’t Lupe’s actual destination, however.  The decision to come N meant she was going all the way to her most northern peakbagging objectives.  As far N as Lupe was already, she wasn’t even close to them yet.

It was already evening, as Lupe left Fairbanks heading NE on the Steese Highway.  Less than 15 minutes later, at Fox, SPHP turned N on the Elliot Highway.  Traffic faded away to almost nothing.  The Elliot Highway was paved and in great shape.  It went through densely forested territory, repeatedly climbing high ridges only to descend into successive big valleys farther N.

By the time the sun went down, there were clouds in the sky again, but they were thin and non-threatening.  Lupe was almost to a much anticipated turn.  A little beyond Livengood, there it was!  SPHP made the R turn.  Almost immediately, this new road turned to gravel.  SPHP wondered what Lupe was getting into.  The road went up a hill.  At the top was a sign next to a long gravel pullout.  Lupe had made it to the start of the Dalton Highway!

Sunset from the Elliot Highway, 8-12-16.
Sunset from the Elliot Highway, 8-12-16.
Lupe reaches the start of the Dalton Highway near Livengood. 414 miles away, the Dalton Highway ends at Deadhorse, near the Prudhoe Bay oil fields and the Arctic Ocean.
Lupe reaches the start of the Dalton Highway near Livengood. 414 miles away, the Dalton Highway ends at Deadhorse, near the Prudhoe Bay oil fields and the Arctic Ocean.

While Lupe was at the Dalton Highway sign, a semi-truck appeared from the N.  The driver stopped the long truck at the pullout.  The truck was absolutely filthy, caked with dirt and dust.  The driver got out.  With the truck still idling, he used a wire brush to scrap the dirt off all the lights on the truck.  The driver checked on a few other things, then drove away.  Five minutes later, another semi-truck came out of the N.  The same thing happened.

Good grief!  Would the G6 be able to stand up to the Dalton Highway?  Was Lupe going to be able to get anywhere close to her peakbagging objectives?  Tomorrow would tell.  It would be here soon enough.

The next morning, SPHP was concerned.  The sky was cloudy, not clear.  The Dalton Highway was dry, though, so Lupe fearlessly, and SPHP wonderingly, started N in the G6.

Lupe on the Dalton Highway early on 8-13-16, Day 15 of her Summer of 2016 Dingo Vacation. The sky was overcast, and fog hung in some of the valleys.
Dawn from the Dalton Highway, 8-13-16.
Dawn from the Dalton Highway, 8-13-16.

SPHP drove slowly, even though the Dalton Highway was in better shape than feared.  No sense on taking any chance of damaging the G6 way up here in northern Alaska!  Up and down.  Lupe crossed many hills, valleys and ridges.  Sometimes the Alaska oil pipeline was in view.  Several sections of the road were paved, which was encouraging.  Lupe was making progress.

At mile 55, Lupe reached her first objective along the Dalton Highway.  It wasn’t a peakbagging goal.  Lupe was about to cross the famous Yukon River!

Crossing the Yukon River on the Dalton Highway. Photo looks NNE.
Crossing the Yukon River on the Dalton Highway. Photo looks NNE.

Crossing the bridge only took a minute or two.  Lupe was N of the mighty Yukon River!  On the E side of the Dalton Highway was the Alaska oil pipeline, and a little visitor center.  Time to get out of the G6 to see what there was to see, and celebrate Lupe’s crossing of the Yukon River.

At the Alaska oil pipeline, N of the Yukon River! Photo looks NNE.
Information display near the visitor center E of the pipeline.
Lupe on the N bank of the Yukon River. Photo looks downstream (W) toward the Dalton Highway bridge Lupe had just crossed.
Lupe on the N bank of the Yukon River. Photo looks downstream (W) toward the Dalton Highway bridge Lupe had just crossed.

The visitor center wasn’t open yet.  SPHP looked at a few of the displays outside.  Lupe went down to see the Yukon River.  She saw the bridge on the Dalton Highway she had just crossed to get N of the river.  Interestingly, the Alaska oil pipeline is attached to the underside of the bridge.

A gas station with a single pump was on the W side of the Dalton Highway.  $5.50 per gallon.  SPHP didn’t buy any.  The G6 had plenty.  Still, it was taking a chance.  No matter what the price at Coldfoot, SPHP would have to buy some there.

Lupe and SPHP went down to the Yukon River again, this time W of the bridge.

Lupe at the Yukon River W of the Dalton highway. The river was murky and gray, not exactly what SPHP had expected. Photo looks downstream (WSW).
Lupe at the Yukon River W of the Dalton highway. The river was murky and gray, not exactly what SPHP had expected. Photo looks downstream (WSW).
The Dalton Highway bridge over the Yukon River from the NNW.
The Dalton Highway bridge over the Yukon River from the NNW.

Almost as soon as Lupe left the Yukon River heading N, the Dalton Highway became damp, soft, and a little muddy.  Once again, SPHP became concerned, but before long the road improved.

Slow and easy, 30 to 35 mph, Lupe and SPHP continued N.  The Dalton Highway wound around, going up and down big hills and ridges.  Often it was possible to see many miles toward distant mountains seemingly far beyond the reach of civilization.  The scenery was vast and remote.  The truck traffic on the Dalton Highway became almost the only source of reassurance that it wasn’t crazy for Lupe to be way out here.

About an hour N of the Yukon River, the highway passed very close to the summit of Finger Mountain (2,202 ft.).  This was just too tempting.  With only 30 feet of elevation gained required to claim a peakbagging success way up in N Alaska, Lupe had to stop!

A short nature trail went up Finger Mountain.  Lupe followed it.  The top of the mountain was a collection of rounded boulders.  Lupe got up on some of them for a look around.

The summit of Finger Mountain from the Dalton Highway. Too close and easy for Lupe to resist! Photo looks NE.
The summit of Finger Mountain from the Dalton Highway. Too close and easy for Lupe to resist! Photo looks NE.
Lupe up on the boulders at the top of Finger Mountain.
Lupe up on the boulders at the top of Finger Mountain.
Looking NW at the vast Alaskan landscape from Finger Mountain. Olsons Lake is the largest pond seen on the R.
Looking NW at the vast Alaskan landscape from Finger Mountain. Olsons Lake is the largest pond seen on the R.
Loopster up on Finger Mountain, Alaska! Photo looks N.
Loopster up on Finger Mountain, Alaska! Photo looks N.

Lupe on Finger Mountain, Alaska 8-13-16

One of the things SPHP found amazing everywhere Lupe went in Alaska was how strikingly colorful the little tundra plants were.
One of the things SPHP found amazing everywhere Lupe went in Alaska was how strikingly colorful the little tundra plants were.

N of Finger Mountain, there was a long stretch of paved road.  Instead of deteriorating as it went N, as SPHP had feared, the Dalton Highway was getting better!  Overall, the Dalton Highway wasn’t nearly as bad as some of the descriptions SPHP had read online implied.  On the other hand, maybe that was just because the gravel sections weren’t muddy right now.

Lupe along the Dalton Highway a little N of Finger Mountain. The Alaska oil pipeline snakes N on the W side of the highway. More importantly, notice the lovely stripe on the road. Yes, it was paved here! Photo looks N.

Half an hour N of Finger Mountain, Lupe came to one of the most important non-peakbagging objectives of her entire Summer of 2016 Dingo Vacation.  At mile 115 of the Dalton Highway, intrepid explorer and adventurer Lupe reached the Arctic Circle!

Intrepid American Dingo Lupe at the Arctic Circle!
Intrepid American Dingo Lupe at the Arctic Circle!

Lupe’s adventures in the Arctic were about to begin!  Back on the Dalton Highway again, Lupe and SPHP continued N another 60 miles to Coldfoot.  SPHP’s gamble paid off when gasoline for the G6 was a measly $4.59 per gallon, a significant savings over the $5.50 per gallon they wanted at the Yukon River.

At the Coldfoot gas station, Lupe made friends with a couple of motorcyclists from Huntington Beach, California.  Alfredo Gonzalez, a riding academy instructor for Harley-Davidson Motorcycles, and his friend, Sam, both showed an interest in Lupe.  They were riding BMW motorcycles, and were on their way back S after having gone all the way to Prudhoe Bay.

Sam (L) and Alfredo Gonzalez (R) from Huntington Beach, California with Lupe at the Coldfoot, Alaska gas station. Sam and Alfredo were on their way back S from Prudhoe Bay on their BMW motorcycles.
Sam (L) and Alfredo Gonzalez (R) from Huntington Beach, California with Lupe at the Coldfoot, Alaska gas station. Sam and Alfredo were on their way back S from Prudhoe Bay on their BMW motorcycles.

It turned out that Sam and Alfredo were talking about possibly taking another motorcycle trip going through the Dakotas in 2017, so SPHP invited them to stop by and visit Lupe at home in the Black Hills.  Maybe Lupe will get to see Sam and Alfredo again!

Sam and Alfredo said good-bye to Lupe and SPHP.  They were ready to head S.  Lupe was going the other direction.  Excitement was mounting – it wouldn’t be long now!  Another 25+ miles N of Coldfoot, Lupe would see the most famous mountain along the entire Dalton Highway.  90 miles into the Arctic, Lupe was here to climb it today!

Lupe 200 miles N of the start of the Dalton Highway, and 90 miles N of the Arctic Circle, approaching famed Sukakpak Mountain in the Brooks Range. Photo looks NE.

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