Category: Dingo Vacations

Kings Throne, Kluane National Park, Yukon Territory, Canada (8-7-16)

Days 8 and 9 of Lupe’s Summer of 2016 Dingo Vacation to the Canadian Rockies, Yukon & Alaska

That guy at the Bell 1 rest area yesterday evening had been right.  There were bears in these woods!  As Lupe and SPHP rolled N along Cassiar Highway No. 37 early on August 6th, Lupe saw 7 bears near the road in a span of 1.5 hours.  Each bear was cause for a ferocious barkfest – from the safety of the G6, of course – as Lupe sped on by.

Day 8 of Lupe’s summer of 2016 Dingo Vacation was going to be a travel day.  SPHP drove.  Lupe looked out the window watching for wildlife.  After the bears, though, no wildlife appeared.  Lupe got bored and snoozed.

Cassiar Highway No. 37 went past beautiful mountains and lakes.  It crossed scenic rivers.  The forest never ended.  Even now, in 2016, with 7.5 billion people on the planet, Lupe really was in an unbelievably vast, uninhabited land.  The narrow strip of highway was the only link to civilization.  Everything else was unspoiled wilderness.  It all hardly seemed possible.  It felt like going back in time.  Columbus may have landed in the Americas almost 524 years ago, but along the Cassiar Highway there were still few visible consequences.

Mehan Lake from the Bell 2 rest stop along the Cassiar Highway. The Cassiar Highway passed many beautiful lakes, some of them far larger than Mehan.
Mehan Lake from the Bell 2 rest stop along the Cassiar Highway. The Cassiar Highway passed many beautiful lakes, some of them far larger than Mehan.

The hours and miles went by.  There was traffic on Cassiar Highway No. 37, more than SPHP expected.  Most of it was big trucks.  Civilization may not have made much of a dent yet, but it is coming soon, even here.

For hundreds of miles, Cassiar Highway No. 37 had been good pavement, but N of the Bell 2 rest stop the road deteriorated.  Rough, broken, patchy pavement appeared.  Stretches of very dusty gravel became common.  N of the tiny community of Dease Lake, the road turned to gravel for a long way.  SPHP feared the Cassiar Highway might be nothing but dust from here on, but Lupe hit pavement again after 25 miles or so.  The worst was over.  Gradually, the Cassiar Highway improved again.

Now and then Lupe and SPHP stopped for short breaks.  At least, they were supposed to be short.  At the Beaver Dam rest stop, SPHP was so weary of driving that 15 minutes of shuteye unintentionally turned into nearly 2 hours of unconsciousness.

On the road again, SPHP felt better.  Unconsciousness has its benefits!  Lupe wasn’t far now from 2 major milestones on her journey.  Suddenly, up ahead, there it was!  A much anticipated sign was up on an embankment near the road.  Lupe just had to stop for this!

Lupe reached the Yukon border on the afternoon of 8-6-16. It was hard to believe she was really here! Photo looks N, of course!
Lupe reached the Yukon border on the afternoon of 8-6-16. It was hard to believe she was really here! Photo looks N, of course!

Lupe had made it to the Yukon!  It was hard to believe she was really here.  A relatively short drive N of the Yukon border brought Lupe to the next big milestone of the day.  Lupe’s long journey on Cassiar Highway No. 37 was over.  She had reached the Alaska Highway!  Lupe and SPHP turned W, heading for Whitehorse.

The afternoon wore on.  It was a long way to Whitehorse, hundreds of miles.  Evening came.  Nearing Teslin Lake, there was a bit of Dingo excitement when Lupe saw her 8th black bear of the day.  Lupe didn’t make it to Whitehorse.  Day 6 ended for Lupe W of Teslin Lake.  Time to stop for the night.

Evening along the Alaska Highway, 8-6-16.
Evening along the Alaska Highway, 8-6-16.
Approaching Teslin Lake.
Approaching Teslin Lake.

The next morning, Lupe did make it to Whitehorse, the capital city of the Yukon.  She didn’t stay long, though.  Lupe was on her way to her first mountain climbing adventure in the Yukon, instead!

Although there had been mountains much of the way along the Alaska Highway, Lupe first caught sight of the higher, more rugged peaks of the Saint Elias Range approaching Haines Junction.

Lupe along the Alaska Highway. Peaks of the Saint Elias Range near Haines Junction are in view ahead. Photo looks WSW.
Lupe along the Alaska Highway. Peaks of the Saint Elias Range near Haines Junction are in view ahead. Photo looks WSW.

At Haines Junction, Lupe and SPHP left the Alaska Highway, turning S on Hwy 3 to Haines.  Lupe wasn’t going all the way to Haines.  Her objective was only 17 miles away now.  About halfway there, SPHP saw a mountain to the SSW resembling a long high wall.  Was that it?  It looked incredibly steep!  SPHP’s heart sank.  Would Lupe be able to climb anything like that?

The realization quickly grew that the N end of the mountain wall really was Lupe’s objective!  Well, there was supposed to be a trail, or at least a route, to the top.  It had taken hours to get here, and was already late in the morning.  No time to second guess things, Lupe would just have to try it and see how things went.

A short drive from a turn off Hwy 3 brought Lupe to the Cottonwood Trailhead.  SPHP parked the G6.  Ten minutes later (10:32 AM, 63°F), Lupe was on the Cottonwood Trail.  The first part of the trail was quite level and followed a road through a shady forest.  Up ahead was Lupe’s mighty objective – King’s Throne Peak (6,529 ft.).

King’s Throne from the Cottonwood Trail. Photo looks SW.
Lupe on the Cottonwood Trail.
To climb King's Throne, Lupe first had to get to the base of the giant cirque in the area shown in the lower R part of this photo. From there, she would follow the steep ridge leading up to the L, before circling back around to the summit on the R via the upper ridgeline. Photo looks SW.
To climb King’s Throne, Lupe first had to get to the base of the giant cirque in the area shown in the lower R part of this photo. From there, she would follow the steep ridge leading up to the L, before circling back around to the summit on the R via the upper ridgeline. Photo looks SW.

About a mile from the trailhead, Lupe came to an intersection.  The Cottonwood Trail headed NW on its way past Kathleen Lake.  It is ultimately part of an 87 km 4-6 day backpacking loop.  Lupe took the King’s Throne trail instead.  The single track trail began to climb steeply.

At first, the trail was switchbacking up through forest, and Lupe couldn’t see much.  Eventually, though, Lupe got above tree line.  The views of Kathleen Lake to the N were already fabulous!

Lupe on the King's Throne trail. Beautiful Kathleen Lake dominates the view to the N.
Lupe on the King’s Throne trail. Beautiful Kathleen Lake dominates the view to the N.
The Cottonwood Trail starts in the forest to the R of the small bay seen on the far side of Kathleen Lake on the R side of this photo. The trail stays in the forest some distance from Kathleen Lake, which was not generally visible from the trail. The smaller long narrow lake seen beyond Kathleen Lake is Lower Kathleen Lake (Center). Beyond it to the L is even smaller Rainbow Lake. Photo looks NNE.
The Cottonwood Trail starts in the forest to the R of the small bay seen on the far side of Kathleen Lake on the R side of this photo. The trail stays in the forest some distance from Kathleen Lake, which was not generally visible from the trail. The smaller long narrow lake seen beyond Kathleen Lake is Lower Kathleen Lake (Center). Beyond it to the L is even smaller Rainbow Lake. Photo looks NNE.

King’s Throne Peak is clearly named for the giant cirque which faces NNE.  The cirque is the seat of the throne, with the high ridges wrapping around it serving as the throne’s arms and back.  It really is pretty easy to imagine the mountain serving as the throne of a titan-sized king.

Evidently the giant cirque is the ultimate destination for many hikers, and they go no farther.  As described in Kluane National Park literature, the King’s Throne trail goes only as far as the cirque.  Elevation gain from Kathleen Lake required to reach the cirque is about 1,800 feet.

Lupe nearing the giant cirque. The steep NE ridge she would have to follow to reach King’s Throne summit is up ahead. Photo looks S.

Down in the forest below, it had been a nice calm day, but as Lupe approached the giant cirque, it was starting to get pretty windy out.  The American Dingo is no great fan of wind, but she had no choice but to put up with it.

Lupe reaches the giant cirque, which is the imaginary seat of King’s Throne. It was annoyingly windy. Photo looks SW.
Just getting to this giant cirque is the ultimate objective of many hikers. Several turned around here while Lupe was in the area, encouraged by the wind to do so. Photo looks SSW.

Lupe and SPHP weren’t the only ones on the King’s Throne trail.  Quite a few other hikers were around.  Some of them turned around at the giant cirque, satisfied with the grand view of Kathleen Lake and being able to say they had hiked King’s Throne trail, which officially ends here.

Of course, Lupe was going onward!  Kluane National Park literature describes the rest of the way up to King’s Throne summit as a “route” rather than a “trail”, because it isn’t officially maintained.  The first part of the route was every bit as good as the official trail had been.  It climbed toward the steep NE ridge of the mountain.

Lupe starts on the “route” to King’s Throne summit. The steep rate of climb the route would soon adopt is evident on the slope ahead. Photo looks SE.
Kathleen Lake from near the start of the "route" part of the trek to the summit. The trail leading to the base of the giant cirque is seen below. Lupe is on her way up to the summit, but hasn't gotten to the steep part of the "route" yet.
Kathleen Lake from near the start of the “route” part of the trek to the summit. The trail leading to the base of the giant cirque is seen below. Lupe is on her way up to the summit, but hasn’t gotten to the steep part of the “route” yet.

When the route reached the steep NE ridge, it turned and worked its way almost straight up it.  For a while there was some grass around.  Later on it was all rock.  The ridgeline became increasingly narrow.  Most of the time, the trail was a bit to the E of the ridgeline.  Off to the W, on the side of the ridge toward the giant cirque, were increasingly fearsome cliffs.

Lupe starts up the route along the NE ridge. Here it was still grassy and not so steep, narrow and rocky. The giant cirque is still in view. Higher up, it was too scary to look over the cliffs in the violent swirling winds to see it. Photo looks SW.
Lupe starts up the route along the NE ridge. Here it was still grassy and not so steep, narrow and rocky. The giant cirque is still in view. Higher up, it was too scary to look over the cliffs in the violent swirling winds to see it. Photo looks SW.
Lupe gaining elevation, but still in the zone where some plants survived. Lupe's goal, the summit of King's Throne, is seen above on the R. Photo looks WSW.
Lupe gaining elevation, but still in the zone where some plants survived. Lupe’s goal, the summit of King’s Throne, is seen above on the R. Photo looks WSW.

The NE ridge was hard going.  The route was either loose rocks or very hard packed soil difficult to maintain traction on.  Hiking poles would have been an enormous help, but SPHP had none.  Even some of the bigger rocks Lupe passed by at certain points were often crumbly, loose and rotten.  Everything had to be tested.

The Carolina Dog had no problems, except for the wind.  She hated it!  As Lupe gained elevation, it swirled more and more violently around the ridgeline.  SPHP joined Lupe on all fours, and virtually crawled up the mountain.  Just trying to stand up and maintain balance was scary.  The wind attacked first from one direction, then suddenly reversed and blew just as strongly from a completely different one.

Lupe in the rocky zone. She would see almost no plants the rest of the way along the route. The big lake in the distance is Dezadeash Lake. Photo looks SE.
Lupe in the rocky zone. She would see almost no plants the rest of the way along the route. The big lake in the distance is Dezadeash Lake. Photo looks SE.

Fortunately, it wasn’t cold out, which would have been unbearable in this wind.  Still, the wind was taking a toll.  People were coming down the mountain.

Most had simply turned around, having decided it wasn’t worth it in this gale.  Among them Lupe saw climbers who had passed SPHP on the way up.  A few groups who had left earlier in the day had succeeded in reaching the summit.  They reported even windier conditions there.  Looking down, climbers who had been gaining on Lupe and SPHP could no longer be seen.  They had turned around, too.

The climb up the long, steep NE ridge seemed endless, but Lupe was gaining ground steadily. The last long stretch of the climb is seen here. Photo looks S.
The climb up the long, steep NE ridge seemed endless, but Lupe was gaining ground steadily. The last long stretch of the climb is seen here. Photo looks S.

Lupe kept climbing.  Finally, a group of four guys appeared coming down the route.  They had foreign accents and seemed very experienced.  They too, reported very windy conditions at the summit, which they had successfully attained.  They were the last people Lupe saw the rest of the day.  Lupe and SPHP were alone on the mountain.

Lupe still had a ways to go up the steep NE ridge.  Lupe pressed on.  At last, she reached the end.  She came upon a broad rocky plain which was almost level by comparison.  The difficult part of the climb was over.  The rest of the way to the summit would be much easier!

Wow, was it ever windy here, though!  SPHP wouldn’t let Lupe get too close to the cliffs above the giant cirque for fear the Carolina Dog would sail right over the edge.  For a few minutes, SPHP could only stand in one place.  Taking a step was nearly impossible.

Lupe on the extremely windy rocky plain she came to at the end of the very steep climb up the NE ridge. The summit of King's Throne Peak is the more distant high point seen on the R. Photo looks W.
Lupe on the extremely windy rocky plain she came to at the end of the very steep climb up the NE ridge. The summit of King’s Throne Peak is the more distant high point seen on the R. Photo looks W.
Kathleen Lake from the edge of the rocky plain above the NE ridge. SPHP wouldn't let Lupe get any closer to the edge than this due to the gale. Photo looks N.
Kathleen Lake from the edge of the rocky plain above the NE ridge. SPHP wouldn’t let Lupe get any closer to the edge than this due to the gale. Photo looks N.

After a few minutes, a slight lull in the wind allowed SPHP to move again.  For a little while, that was how it went.  When the wind blew hardest, SPHP had to stand stock still, ready to crouch, if necessary.  When there was a lull, progress resumed.  Maybe it would be less windy away from the edge of the giant cirque?

It was!  Away from the cliffs, the wind was noticeably weaker.  Lupe and SPHP were on the move again.  Lupe headed W toward the S side of a rounded high point where a saddle led over to the next peak to the S.

To avoid the worst of the wind, Lupe stayed to the L (S) of the near ridge. Cliffs above the giant cirque were on the other side. Photo looks WNW.
To avoid the worst of the wind, Lupe stayed to the L (S) of the near ridge. Cliffs above the giant cirque were on the other side. Photo looks WNW.
The wide valley S of King's Throne Peak on the back side of the throne is seen here on the R. Dezadeash Lake is in the distance. Photo looks SE.
The wide valley S of King’s Throne Peak on the back side of the throne is seen here on the R. Dezadeash Lake is in the distance. Photo looks SE.
The saddle connecting to the next peak S of King's Throne Peak. Photo looks SSW.
The saddle connecting to the next peak S of King’s Throne Peak. Photo looks SSW.

Maybe it was White Dingo Magic, but contrary to reports from climbers who had been here earlier, the wind was getting weaker, not worse!  Lupe worked her way up and over a high point, and turned NW toward the King’s Throne summit.  The reduced wind speed was a welcome relief.

On the high point N of the saddle leading to the peak to the S, Lupe came to this view of the King's Throne summit ahead. Lupe was almost there! Photo looks NW.
On the high point N of the saddle leading to the peak to the S, Lupe came to this view of the King’s Throne summit ahead. Lupe was almost there! Photo looks NW.

Lupe and SPHP were making good time now.  Even before Lupe reached King’s Throne summit, glorious sights came into view to the W.

Glorious sights appeared to the W as Lupe drew near King's Throne Peak's summit. The biggest lake seen here is actually the W end of Kathleen Lake. Beyond it is Louise Lake. Photo looks W.
Glorious sights appeared to the W as Lupe drew near King’s Throne Peak’s summit. The biggest lake seen here is actually the W end of Kathleen Lake. Beyond it is Louise Lake. Photo looks W.
Lupe on the final approach to the King’s Throne Peak summit. Photo looks NNW.

By the time Lupe reached the summit of King’s Throne Peak, the wind had died down to just a breeze.  Lupe and SPHP were free to really enjoy the stupendous views in every direction!

Lupe atop the summit cairn on King's Throne Peak! It was still breezy when Lupe arrived, but nothing like the gale she'd faced coming up. The views were stupendous in every direction! Louise Lake is seen in the huge valley below. Photo looks W.
Lupe atop the summit cairn on King’s Throne Peak! It was still breezy when Lupe arrived, but nothing like the gale she’d faced coming up. The views were stupendous in every direction! Louise Lake is seen in the huge valley below. Photo looks W.
Louis Lake from King's Throne Peak summit. It was hard to believe Lupe was really here, high on this fabulous mountain in remote Kluane National Park in the Yukon! Photo looks W.
Louis Lake from King’s Throne Peak summit. It was hard to believe Lupe was really here, high on this fabulous mountain in remote Kluane National Park in the Yukon! Photo looks W.
Looking SE from the summit. Dezadeash Lake is on the L. Part of Lupe's route up is visible to the R of Lupe, and also along the top of the dark lower ridge on the L.
Looking SE from the summit. Dezadeash Lake is on the L. Part of Lupe’s route up is visible to the R of Lupe, and also along the top of the dark lower ridge on the L.
Far beyond Kathleen and Louise lakes, mysterious towering snow-capped peaks of the Saint Elias Range lurked partially hidden in the clouds. Photo looks W.
Far beyond Kathleen and Louise lakes, mysterious towering snow-capped peaks of the Saint Elias Range lurked partially hidden in the clouds. Photo looks W.
Kathleen Lake from King's Throne Peak. Mount Decoeli is the distant sharp peak seen faintly straight up from the island in Kathleen Lake. Photo looks NW.
Kathleen Lake from King’s Throne Peak. Mount Decoeli is the distant sharp peak seen faintly straight up from the island in Kathleen Lake. Photo looks NW.

On the NE side of the summit, the air was almost calm.  SPHP sat down out of the wind to rest while taking in the magnificent views.  Lupe curled up in SPHP’s lap.  Lupe got petted and praised for bringing SPHP to such a wonderful place.  The Carolina Dog seemed to enjoy every moment.

The W end of Kathleen Lake and Louise Lake again. A small part of Sockeye Lake is visible toward the L beyond Louise Lake. Photo looks W.
The W end of Kathleen Lake and Louise Lake again. A small part of Sockeye Lake is visible toward the L beyond Louise Lake. Photo looks W.
Kathleen Lake. Photo looks NNW.
Kathleen Lake. Photo looks NNW.

One distant peak Lupe could see was of particular interest.  The steep top of Mount Decoeli (7,650 ft.) was faintly in view to the NW far beyond Kathleen Lake.  Mount Decoeli was on the short list of peaks in Kluane National Park that SPHP hoped Lupe might be able to climb.

However, Mount Decoeli looked every bit as steep as the NE ridge coming up King’s Throne Peak.  Clearly, Decoeli would be a huge challenge.  SPHP gazed at Decoeli filled with both hope and doubt.  Would Lupe ever be on top of that daunting mountain?

Mount Decoeli is the sharp most distant peak on the R. Decoeli was on the short list of peaks SPHP thought Lupe might be able to climb in Kluane National Park. However, the mountain looked daunting from King's Throne Peak. Photo looks NW using the telephoto lens.
Mount Decoeli is the sharp most distant peak on the R. Decoeli was on the short list of peaks SPHP thought Lupe might be able to climb in Kluane National Park. However, the mountain looked daunting from King’s Throne Peak. Photo looks NW using the telephoto lens.

Lupe and SPHP lingered at the summit of King’s Throne Peak for more than 45 minutes.  Conditions were great, and the views were awe-inspiring.  Lupe would have stayed much longer, but she had gotten a late morning start, and it had taken a very long time for SPHP to climb, crawl and stagger all the way to the top.

The time came when Lupe had to think about starting down.  She returned to the King’s Throne summit cairn for a final look.  SPHP took another round of photos.  After all the effort expended to get here, it was hard to think about leaving already to face the steep, windy NE ridge again.

Lupe returned to the summit cairn for a final look around. Photo looks SSE.
Lupe returned to the summit cairn for a final look around. Photo looks SSE.
The first part of Lupe's route back is in view below on the lower L. It took her over the rounded hills above the snowbank. Photo looks SSE.
The first part of Lupe’s route back is in view below on the lower L. It took her over the rounded hills above the snowbank. Photo looks SSE.
This photo is a pretty good look at the easy part of the climb up King's Throne Peak along the back of the throne. The upper end of the steep NE ridge is seen on the L. Dezadeash Lake is in the distance. Photo looks SE.
This photo is a pretty good look at the easy part of the climb up King’s Throne Peak along the back of the throne. The upper end of the steep NE ridge is seen on the L. Dezadeash Lake is in the distance. Photo looks SE.
A good deal of the steep NE ridge is in view here. Photo looks ESE.
A good deal of the steep NE ridge is in view here. Photo looks ESE.
Far to the W of King's Throne Peak were mysterious higher peaks of the Saint Elias range. Lupe never got a clear look at them, but what could be seen was most intriguing. Photo looks W using the telephoto lens.
Far to the W of King’s Throne Peak were mysterious higher peaks of the Saint Elias range. Lupe never got a clear look at them, but what could be seen was most intriguing. Photo looks W using the telephoto lens.

The relative calm Lupe experienced on top of King’s Throne summit did not prevail elsewhere, although the wind wasn’t as bad as it had been earlier in the day.  Lupe and SPHP made good time on the route back until reaching the steep NE ridge.

Going down the NE ridge, the wind was still strong and unpredictable.  The terrain was so steep, the footing so unreliable, and the swirling wind so unnerving that SPHP became extraordinarily slow and cautious.  SPHP crawled, slid, and took baby steps down the mountain.  Lupe became so impatient with SPHP, the were-puppy attacked repeatedly to encourage some movement.

This was taking forever!  The sun was long gone.  The creeping Yukon twilight slowly faded.  Yet the sweeping views of the desolate mountains of the far N were chillingly inspiring.  Thousands of feet below, whitecaps could be seen on Kathleen Lake.

Even the official King’s Throne trail below the giant cirque seemed steeper and more difficult than SPHP remembered.  By now SPHP’s toes were all sore from being mashed against the front of the boots for hours.  The painful trek continued.

By the time Lupe was back on the Cottonwood Trail, SPHP was beat.  Amazingly, Lupe was bursting with American Dingo energy.  The dark forest, roaring waves crashing on the unseen shore of Kathleen Lake, and wildly swaying treetops made Lupe wild, too.  Something darted across the trail in the gloom ahead.  A coyote!  Who knew, maybe it was a wolf?  This was the Yukon!  Lupe seemed ready to dash off into the forest to live wild and free, too!

11:07 PM.  The animated American Dingo was finally back at the G6.  SPHP was still mostly alive.  What a day it had been!  Lupe had succeeded in climbing King’s Throne Peak, a feat dreamed of for a long time now.  Despite exhaustion, SPHP was filled with joy.

Congratulations, Loopster!  You did it – all the way to the top!  Well done, sweet puppy!  King’s Throne was amazingly amazing!  And you know what?  Tomorrow you aren’t even going to think about trying another stunt like that again.  Bunny hill, here you come!

Bunnies?  That grabbed Lupe’s attention!  The Carolina Dog was all in favor of Bunny Hill.

Last photo of Lupe on King's Throne Peak summit before she headed down. 8-7-16
Last photo of Lupe on King’s Throne Peak summit before she headed down. 8-7-16

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The Salmon Glacier near Hyder, Alaska (8-5-16)

Day 7 of Lupe’s Summer of 2016 Dingo Vacation to the Canadian Rockies, Yukon & Alaska.

Lupe and SPHP hit the road again early (6:20 AM), still heading NW on Yellowhead Hwy No. 16.  A cool, light rain fell under overcast skies.  Lupe was happy.  Vast forests continued to dominate, but every now and then the Carolina Dog had an opportunity to bark at cows or horses in fields near the road.  The miles flew by.

The day seemed to be getting darker, instead of brighter, when Lupe passed through Smithers in rain and fog.  High mountains were close to Smithers, the first high mountains Lupe had seen since before reaching Prince George yesterday.  Lupe was approaching adventure territory once again!

On the way to New Hazelton, the rain stopped.  The skies started clearing.  It was going to be a bright day after all!  After passing through New Hazelton, Yellowhead Highway No. 16 turned SW for a while.  Lupe and SPHP stopped for a short break at Sealy Lake.  A sign told of an ancient water-grizzly named Medeek.

This plaque at Sealy Lake tells of the ancient water-grizzly Medeek.

Lupe went down to Sealy Lake.  The lake was a small one with reeds near the shore.  Impressive mountains were near Sealy Lake to the SE, but they weren’t what held SPHP’s interest.  Across Sealy Lake, mountains with large snowfields on them were seen in the distance to the W.  Before Lupe reached those mountains, she would turn N on the Cassiar Highway No. 37.

Lupe at Sealy Lake. Before she reached the mountains seen in the distance beyond the lake, Lupe would turn N on the Cassiar Highway No. 37. Photo looks W.
Lupe at Sealy Lake. Before she reached the mountains seen in the distance beyond the lake, Lupe would turn N on the Cassiar Highway No. 37. Photo looks W.

A little later on, Lupe was there, at the junction.  Getting to the Cassiar Highway No. 37 was kind of a big deal.  The Cassiar was going to be Lupe’s road to adventure!

Lupe at a sign near the junction of Yellowhead Highway No. 16, which she had been following ever since leaving Jasper in Alberta, and the Cassiar Highway No. 37.
Lupe about to head N on the Cassiar Highway No. 37.

As Lupe and SPHP traveled N on Cassiar Highway No. 37, mountains and forests soon took over completely.  Gone were the fields of haystacks, cows and horses.  The highway went by beautiful lakes and rivers.  Lupe missed the cows and horses, and eventually fell asleep.

At Meziadin Junction, SPHP turned W on Hwy 37A, a 61 km spur road to Stewart, British Columbia.  Along the way, Lupe got to see the Bear Glacier.

Lupe got to see the Bear Glacier across Strohn Lake from Hwy 37A on the way to Stewart. Photo looks SW.
The Bear Glacier with a little help from the telephoto lens.

Farther on, Hwy 37A crossed a bridge over the Bear River just before entering the small border town of Stewart, British Columbia.  The Bear River valley was impressive.  Lupe and SPHP got out of the G6 to take a look.

Lupe near Stewart, British Columbia. Photo looks N up the impressive Bear River valley.
Lupe near Stewart, British Columbia. Photo looks N up the impressive Bear River valley.

Stewart is a small town at the end of the Portland Canal, a long narrow arm (a fjord, essentially) of the Pacific Ocean.  Only 3 km from Stewart, Lupe entered the even smaller town of Hyder, Alaska.  Alaska became Lupe’s 12th US Dingo State!

Hyder, Alaska has two main attractions, other than being on the Portland Canal.  A few miles N of Hyder is the Fish Creek Wildlife Observation Site.  For $5 per day, visitors can view wildlife from a raised wooden observation platform along Fish Creek.  Wild bears feeding on salmon in Fish Creek are the big draw.

Although Lupe would have loved barking ferociously at grizzly bears from the safety of a raised platform, this would no doubt have been frowned upon by the park service and every other site visitor.  Nevertheless, SPHP stopped briefly at the Fish Creek Wildlife Observation Site to ask directions to Hyder’s other main attraction, the Salmon Glacier.

The directions were easy.  Just keep following the road past the Fish Creek Wildlife Observation Site.  About 16 miles from Hyder, the road reaches an observation point with a tremendous view overlooking the Salmon Glacier.  Interestingly, although the road through Hyder, Alaska and past Fish Creek provides the only access to the Salmon Glacier, the glacier itself is actually a short distance over the Canadian border in British Columbia.

The sky was crystal clear blue as Lupe and SPHP drove up the gravel road.  The road went N following the Salmon River valley, climbing ever higher up on the mountain slopes on the E side of the valley.  Traffic was surprisingly heavy, and raised long-lingering clouds of dust.  There were numerous small pullouts at viewpoints along the way.  Finally, the Salmon Glacier came into view.

The Salmon Glacier comes into view from the road to the main viewpoint. A helicopter is seen flying up the valley. Photo looks N.
The Salmon Glacier comes into view from the road to the main viewpoint. A helicopter is seen flying up the valley. Photo looks N.
Impressive as it is, this first part of the glacier to come into view is only a small part of the whole Salmon Glacier.

The S tongue of the Salmon Glacier which came into view first was impressive, but is only a small part of the entire glacier.  The scene became more and more amazing as Lupe neared the main Salmon Glacier viewpoint.

The main viewpoint was crowded when Lupe arrived.  A dozen vehicles were parked along the road and in a small parking area.  Two dozen or more people were milling around checking out the view.  Lupe and SPHP ignored the dust and commotion, as much as possible.  Lupe waited for a turn up on a small rise with a panoramic glacier view.

Wow!  The Salmon Glacier was absolutely stunning!  The huge white glacier, streaked with dark gray rock and tinges of blue, flows down a high wide valley surrounded by mountains straight toward the viewpoint.  Hundreds of feet below, the giant glacier splits into a forked tongue.  The larger end flows S (L) down the Salmon River valley.  The smaller N (R) end flows into a depression filled earlier in the year by Summit Lake.

Lupe at the main Salmon Glacier viewpoint near the highest point on the access road. Photo looks W.
Lupe at the main Salmon Glacier viewpoint near the highest point on the access road. Photo looks W.
The Salmon Glacier is in British Columbia, Canada, although the only access road to this amazing viewpoint goes through Hyder, Alaska.

The Salmon Glacier was a glorious sight!  What wasn’t glorious was how busy the main viewpoint was.  Vehicles kept coming and going raising all kinds of dust.  A road which goes 10 miles farther past the main viewpoint, was closed for construction.  Construction equipment made more dust and noise as it rumbled by.  Several helicopters flew back and forth, apparently in connection with the construction.

A two year old tyrant among the throng of tourists had learned to screech commands every 20 or 30 seconds at his willingly subservient parents.  A grandma in the same family pleaded with 2 older girls to please come and stand by her for a photo.  After all, grandma had bought them lots of nice things, hadn’t she?  With nothing new in it for them, the girls pouted and declined to have anything to do with grandma.

Lupe loved one part of all these goings on – the helicopters!  Lupe loves helicopters.  In particular, she loves to run below them barking furiously to chase them away.  With all the helicopters buzzing around, Lupe was only adding to the general tumult.

Several helicopters kept flying around near the main Salmon Glacier viewpoint, apparently in connection with road construction. Lupe loves barking at helicopters! The American Dingo’s frantic yelping only added to the annoying din at the main viewpoint.

Fortunately, SPHP remembered reading online that there is an unmaintained trail going up the mountainside to the E of the Salmon Glacier viewpoint.  The views would be even more spectacular up there!  Lupe could bark at helicopters all she wanted to, far from the crowd.  Lupe and SPHP left the little parking lot (1:51 PM, 66°F), quickly finding several informal trails winding up the mountainside.

Making the climb above the parking lot was a great decision.  As Lupe and SPHP gained hundreds of feet of elevation, the noise, dust, brats and general commotion at the main viewpoint faded away.  Helicopters still flew by, even closer than down below, greatly entertaining Lupe.  She raced around barking for all she was worth, not bothering anyone.

Lupe and SPHP stopped for short breaks on a couple of hills hundreds feet above the road.  Peace and tranquility reigned.  Missing these incredible views from on high would have been a shame!

Lupe takes a break from chasing helicopters on a small hill hundreds of feet above the main Salmon Glacier viewpoint down by the road (seen near Lupe's tongue). Up here, the magnificent Salmon Glacier could be enjoyed in solitude and tranquility (at least when the helicopters weren't around). Much, much better! Photo looks W.
Lupe takes a break from chasing helicopters on a small hill hundreds of feet above the main Salmon Glacier viewpoint down by the road (seen near Lupe’s tongue). Up here, the magnificent Salmon Glacier could be enjoyed in solitude and tranquility (at least when the helicopters weren’t around). Much, much better! Photo looks W.
The upper end of the Salmon Glacier. Photo looks W using the telephoto lens.
Lupe atop one of the two hills where she took her first short breaks. Photo looks SW.
Looking NW now. Part of the N tongue of the Salmon Glacier is seen below.
Looking NW now. Part of the N tongue of the Salmon Glacier is seen below.

Fields of flowers watered by tiny streams and ponds were in view beyond the small hills where Lupe took her first short breaks.  When her breaks were done, Lupe went SSE exploring this vibrant, colorful territory.  She climbed even higher up to a massive knob of rock where she found a big cairn.  To the SE, Lupe could see the snow-capped summit of Mount Dilworth (5,446 ft.).

Lupe in the fields of flowers on her way to the knob of rock seen on the L. Photo looks SE.
Lupe in the fields of flowers on her way to the knob of rock seen on the L. Photo looks SE.
Wildflowers on the slopes of Mount Dilworth.
Wildflowers on the slopes of Mount Dilworth.
Lupe on the rock knob. The snow-capped summit of Mount Dilworth is in view. Photo looks SE.
Lupe on the highest rock knob she visited on the slopes of Mount Dilworth. Photo looks N.
The Salmon Glacier as viewed from the highest rock knob Lupe reached on the slopes of Mount Dilworth. Lupe stands by the big cairn she found here. Photo looks W.
The upper end of the Salmon Glacier as seen from Lupe’s highest point of advance up Mount Dilworth. Photo looks W using the telephoto lens.
Salmon Glacier ice viewed through the telephoto lens.

From the rock knob, the views were amazing, not only toward the Salmon Glacier, but in every direction.  The day was very warm and sunny.  Conditions were ideal.  For a little while, SPHP toyed with the idea of climbing Mount Dilworth with Lupe.  It looked easy, but maybe the huge snowfield at the top was actually quite dangerous?  Falling into a crevasse would be the end.  Best to leave it alone.

So Lupe made no attempt to climb Mount Dilworth, despite how tempting it looked.  Instead, the Carolina Dog had fun among flowers, fields, and streams on the way back down to the main Salmon Glacier viewpoint along the road.  The return trip was a wonderful time full of beautiful sights.

Lupe on the way back down the slopes of Mount Dilworth. Photo looks NW.
Lupe on the way back down the slopes of Mount Dilworth. Photo looks NW.
Yes, this is what Dingo Vacations are all about!
Yes, this is what Dingo Vacations are all about!
Salmon Glacier from the slopes of Mount Dilworth. Photo looks W.

Flowers on Mount Dilworth, British Columbia, CanadaFlower on Mount Dilworth, British Columbia, Canada 8-5-16When Lupe reached the main Salmon Glacier viewpoint back at the road, a new bit of excitement was going on.  Someone had accidentally dropped their camera far down a steep slope, and attempting to retrieve it, managed to get themselves stuck in a precarious position.  A rescue operation was in progress.

While everyone else was gathered in one spot talking about the rescue, Lupe and SPHP walked over to a hill offering a better view of the N tongue of the glacier.  Every year, typically in mid-July, this part of the Salmon Glacier unleashes a major natural hazard.

In spring and early summer, Summit Lake forms from meltwaters backed up by an ice-dam at the N end of the glacier.  As temperatures warm, Summit Lake eventually breaks through the ice-dam.  The lake then drains to the S beneath the Salmon Glacier, flooding the Salmon River where water levels rise suddenly by 4 or 5 feet for several days.

Since it was August, Summit Lake had already broken through the ice-dam and drained away.  Lupe could still see where Summit Lake had been, though.  A small area of gray green water remained at the bottom of a depression surrounded by collapsed ice and snow.  The former high water level was easy to see on the side of the mountain above.

Lupe saw this view of the gray green waters surrounded by collapsed snow and ice remaining after the natural draining of Summit Lake under the Salmon Glacier in July. It’s easy to see the typical high water line of Summit Lake along the base of the mountain slope on the L. Photo looks NW.
Collapsed snow and ice around the remains of Summit Lake.

Lupe’s visit to the Salmon Glacier had been a most memorable occasion, but it was time to move on (4:07 PM, 76°F).  Lupe and SPHP made a few more stops at viewpoints on the way back to Hyder while the glorious Salmon Glacier was still in view.

Looking WNW at the huge sweeping curve of the Salmon Glacier for the last time.
Looking WNW at the huge sweeping curve of the Salmon Glacier for the last time.
S tongue of the Salmon Glacier. Photo looks N.

Salmon Glacier, British Columbia, Canada 8-5-16On the way back to Hyder, the G6 said the temperature hit an incredible 84°F outside.  SPHP fretted uselessly about the ultimate fate of the Salmon Glacier.  Things cooled off closer to Hyder, perhaps influenced by the nearby presence of the ocean.

Lupe hadn’t seen the ocean since visiting the Washington and Oregon coasts during her Summer of 2012 Dingo Vacation nearly 4 years ago.  So when Lupe got back to Hyder, Alaska, SPHP drove her over to the end of the wharf to see the Portland Canal.

Lupe stands on a bench at the end of the wharf in Hyder, Alaska. Beyond her is the Portland Canal, an arm of the North Pacific Ocean. This was the first time Lupe had seen the ocean since she was only 1.5 years old on her 2012 Dingo Vacation to the West Coast. Photo looks SW.
Lupe stands on a bench at the end of the wharf in Hyder, Alaska. Beyond her is the Portland Canal, an arm of the North Pacific Ocean. This was the first time Lupe had seen the ocean since she was only 1.5 years old on her 2012 Dingo Vacation to the West Coast. Photo looks SW.
Looking NE from Hyder, Alaska toward Stewart, British Columbia at the end of the Portland Canal.

Lupe’s adventure to Hyder, Alaska and the Salmon Glacier was done.  Lupe and SPHP went back through Canadian customs returning to Stewart in British Columbia.  Although it was late afternoon already, the long Canadian summer days meant there were still hours of daylight left.

Lupe and SPHP left Stewart taking Hwy 37A back past the Bear Glacier to Meziadin Junction.  After gassing the G6 up, Lupe’s long journey N on Cassiar Highway No. 37 resumed.  Each mile took the Carolina Dog farther N than she had ever been before.

Daylight was fading by the time Lupe crossed a big bridge over a river that looked like it was running very low.  Beyond the bridge was the Bell 1 rest stop.  SPHP pulled in.  Time for a quick dinner before dark.  For some reason, Lupe wanted to stay in the G6.  Was she just tired, or was it true?

A guy from Dease Lake had been talking to SPHP.  He said his big brown dog sensed bears nearby, and claimed these woods were full of bears.  He also talked about how the weather was changing.  Last winter this area had received only 4 feet of snow.  Ten years ago, typical total winter snowfall used to be 15 meters (49 feet).  Another bad sign for the Salmon Glacier.

Well, that’s why we are here now, Looper!  To see it all while fate and fortune still smile upon us, and these fabulous natural wonders of the world remain.

The Salmon Glacier from the slopes of Mount Dilworth.

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