K’esugi Ridge: Indian Benchmark & K’esugi Mountain, Denali State Park, Alaska (8-18-16)

Days 18, 19 & 20 of Lupe’s 2016 Dingo Vacation to the Canadian Rockies, Yukon & Alaska

8-16-16.  Morning in the Arctic.  Still lots of clouds around, but the sun was shining promisingly on a field W of the Dalton Highway.  Lupe and SPHP weren’t going anywhere.

Yesterday had been incredible!  Lupe had succeeded in climbing Dillon Mountain (4,820 ft.), close to 90 miles N of the Arctic Circle.  Cold and soaking wet, Lupe and SPHP had returned after midnight, only to find the G6’s battery was dead.

Fortunately, the G6 was parked at a small pullout N of milepost 207 right alongside the Dalton Highway.  SPHP raised the hood.  Someone would stop to help.  While Lupe sniffed around outside, SPHP arranged sopping wet clothes to dry on top of the G6, then proceeded to put things back in order inside.  About the time SPHP was finishing up, a vehicle pulled up.

A couple of guys jumped out, and asked if everything was OK.  Well, not quite.  SPHP had jumper cables along, could they give the G6 a quick jump?  Yeah, no problem.  A couple minutes later, the G6 was purring again.  Thanks, so very, very much!  Would they take payment for their assistance?  Nope.  What great guys!

Lupe’s benefactors were Devon Drayton and John Antes.  Devon had gotten a job and moved to Fairbanks 2.5 months ago.  John lives in Pennsylvania, where he works as a website graphics designer.  They were on their way N to Deadhorse on Prudhoe Bay to see the Arctic Ocean.

Devon and John were both friendly and kind to Lupe.  After the jump start, they stayed chatting with SPHP for a while.  They were impressed that Lupe had climbed Sukakpak and Dillon mountains.  Devon had a scary tale about a narrow escape from being alone half-buried in snow.  John described difficult hikes and mountain climbs in virtually impenetrable forests.  The visit was fun, but eventually Devon and John had to hit the road.

Devon Drayton(L) and John Antes(R) helped Lupe and SPHP out with a jumpstart for the G6 on the morning of 8-16-16. Devon and John were on their way N to see the Arctic Ocean at Prudhoe Bay.

Thanks to Devon and John, the G6 was running!  Lupe and SPHP spent the whole day driving S.  Lupe crossed the Arctic Circle.  She shared a beef stew picnic with SPHP at the Yukon River.  By evening, Lupe was way down S in Fairbanks.  She visited Pioneer Park there shortly before sunset.

Lupe visited Pioneer Park in Fairbanks shortly before sunset.

The next morning, Lupe left Fairbanks on Alaska Route 3, the George Parks Highway.  Half an hour after leaving town, SPHP stopped at a pullout at a high point.  Far away to the S were many impressive peaks.  Even more remotely off to the SW, however, was a shocking sight.

Visible across an incredible distance, a colossal mountain clad in white rose to an impossible height!  Otherwise totally exposed, the monster’s summit scraped the clouds.  There could be no mistaking that gigantic peak.  Lupe was getting her first look at Denali (20,310 ft.), the highest mountain in North America!

There was no mistaking this massive white mountain, totally dominating the far horizon. Lupe was getting her first look at Denali, the highest mountain in North America! Photo looks SW using the telephoto lens.

The sight of Denali was exciting!  Often the mountain is obscured by clouds for many days at a time.  Today, it appeared Lupe had an excellent chance of getting a grand view of the mountain up close!  Plans for the day changed instantly.  Suddenly, Lupe’s primary objective was to reach the N Denali viewpoint at milepost 162.6 along the George Parks Highway as soon as possible.

It was farther to the viewpoint than SPHP realized.  Traffic was heavy.  There was considerable road construction.  A lot of time was lost waiting for pilot cars.  Hours went by.  When Lupe arrived at the N Denali viewpoint in Denali State Park, the mountain had vanished.  A bank of clouds hung over the Alaska Range.  Most disappointing.

SPHP drove over to the Little Coal Creek trailhead at milepost 163.9.  Lupe could take the Little Coal Creek trail up onto K’esugi Ridge.  If Denali reappeared, Lupe would have a fantastic view from up there!  The sky had been clouding up, though.  It was already after 3 PM.  How likely was it Denali would reappear today?  No, maybe it was best to just go back to the original plan for the day.

That meant driving 50 miles back to Cantwell.  The plan had been for Lupe to check out a couple of mountains in that area, and get positioned to be ready to climb one or the other of them tomorrow.

The drive back to Cantwell was gorgeous.  Some of the rugged lower peaks of the Alaska Range, were in view N of the highway.  They weren’t Denali by a long shot, but they were still impressive.

Lower peaks of the Alaska Range seen N of the George Parks Highway on the way back to Cantwell.

About 10 miles NE of Cantwell, Lupe checked out Panorama Mountain (5,778 ft.) from the George Parks Highway.  There was no trail up Panorama Mountain as far as SPHP knew.  Almost none of the route up Slime Creek that SPHP had hoped Lupe might be able to take was visible from the highway.  Panorama Mountain looked challenging.  The probability of success was too low.

Panorama Mountain near Denali National Park from the George Parks Highway. Photo looks SE.

Next Lupe went to check out Reindeer Hills (5,102 ft.), situated 6 or 7 miles E of Cantwell, and 2 miles N of gravel Denali Highway (No. 8).  There was no trail up Reindeer Hills, either, but Reindeer Hills looked much easier to climb than Panorama Mountain.  SPHP liked the idea.  Lupe would easily be able to do this!  Reindeer Hills looked like a fun climb.

The Reindeer Hills located ENE of Cantwell looked very promising as a possible Lupe peakbagging objective! The high point is on the R. Photo looks NE.
The Reindeer Hills high point. This looked like a fun, relatively easy climb for Lupe. There were much more rugged mountains around in every direction, too. The views from the top would be fabulous! Photo looks NE.

Unfortunately, as SPHP drove E on Denali Highway No. 8 looking for the best point for Lupe to start her trek up the Reindeer Hills, there were “No Trespassing” signs posted all along the road.  Land in the area was owned by a Native American tribe.  The signs said a permit was required to enter.

Lupe made stops at a number of scenic points along Denali Highway No. 8.  Near a small lake of SE Reindeer Hills, an old map was posted showing the extent of the Native American lands.  Reindeer Hills didn’t appear to be included, but there was no reasonable access point that didn’t cross the Native American property.

Lupe at the small lake SE of Reindeer Hills where a map was posted which appeared to show there was no access to Reindeer Hills without crossing Native American property. Photo looks SE at different mountains beyond the lake.
Lupe made one foray toward Reindeer Hills from the SE where the map showed a possible route avoiding the Native American tribe’s land. The terrain wasn’t favorable on this approach. A lake, and possibly a river, blocked the way. Photo looks NW at Reindeer Hills.

Sadly, the Reindeer Hills idea had to be abandoned.  The long drive back to the Cantwell area had been a waste, but at least the situation was clear.  Tomorrow, Lupe would go to K’esugi Ridge in Denali State Park.  Her objectives would be to climb to the Indian Benchmark and K’esugi Mountain.  SPHP hoped the weather would be clear, so Lupe would get a great view of Denali.

Lupe and SPHP enjoyed a beautiful evening drive back toward Denali State Park.

Lupe briefly visited this lovely creek S of Denali Hwy No. 8 before leaving the Cantwell area. Photo looks SE.
Looking SW over Summit Lake along the George Parks Highway.
A pensive Lupe in the G6 enjoying the ride back toward Denali State Park in Alaska, 8-17-16.
Evening sky in Alaska.

As Lupe got closer to Denali State Park again, there it was, off in the distance.  Denali was back!  SPHP hoped it was a good omen for Lupe tomorrow.

On the way back toward Denali State Park, Lupe caught a glimpse of Denali in the evening light. Was it a good omen for Lupe tomorrow? SPHP hoped so. Photo looks WSW using the telephoto lens.

The next morning, conditions weren’t nearly as encouraging.  The sky was totally overcast.  Rain looked like a real possibility.  Low fog drifted among the mountains.  Denali was nowhere in sight.

The morning of 8-18-16, the weather was looking iffy. Photo looks SW toward Indian Benchmark(L) and K’esugi Mountain(Center).

SPHP wasn’t at all certain Lupe should even attempt the climb up to the Indian Benchmark and K’esugi Mountain.  No point in going in rain or fog.  SPHP drove to the Little Coal Creek trailhead at milepost 163.9 along the George Parks Highway, anyway.  At the trailhead, Lupe waited in suspense, while SPHP checked maps and prepared for the trek.

There was no discernable change in the weather by the time everything was ready.  May as well try it, and hope for the best.  Lupe could always turn back, if conditions deteriorated.  Lupe and SPHP set off on the Little Coal Creek Trail (11:10 AM, 56°F).

The trail started out in the forest.  At first, there no views and only gradual elevation gain, but that began to change when the trail got closer to Little Coal Creek.  The trail turned ESE staying N of the creek, and began to climb steadily.  Little Coal Creek was seldom seen, down in a deep ravine.

Lupe’s first real views came when the trail reached treeline.  The sky was still overcast.  Clouds clung to the mountaintops.  At least it wasn’t raining.

Lupe above treeline on the Little Coal Creek Trail. Clouds were still clinging to the peaks. Photo looks SE.
Only the lowest glories of the Alaska Range beyond the broad Chulitna River valley were in view below the clouds. Photo looks NW using the telephoto lens.

The last part of the climb along the Little Coal Creek Trail was fairly steep.  The trail then leveled out entirely, even beginning to lose a little elevation as it turned SW.   Lupe was almost to the end of the 3.3 mile long Little Coal Creek Trail.  Soon it would become the K’esugi Ridge Trail where it crosses the ravine Little Coal Creek originates from N of K’esugi Mountain.

Lupe had already gained 1,750 feet of elevation from the trailhead.  By now she was well above treeline, even bushline, up on open tundra.  The views would already have been spectacular, if it had been a clear day.

Lupe wasn’t continuing on to the K’esugi Ridge Trail.  Her first peakbagging objective, the Indian Benchmark (4,558 ft.) was off trail to the SE.  Ahead, Lupe could see a large ridge that swept around to the E before curving to approach Indian Benchmark from the NE.  The long ridge looked like an easy climb.  Only the last little bit near the summit, partially hidden in the clouds, looked like it might present a problem.  What could be seen from down here didn’t look too bad.

Lupe reaches flat open tundra near the end of the Little Coal Creek Trail. Ahead, seen directly above her partially hidden in the clouds, is her first peakbagging objective, the Indian Benchmark. The plan was to take the long, sweeping ridge over to the E (L) and then back to the SW (R) up to the summit. In practice, Lupe took a shortcut up to the saddle seen almost straight up from the L edge of the backpack. Photo looks SE.

Lupe abandoned the Little Coal Creek Trail, and made for the start of the long sweeping ridge to the Indian Benchmark.  The ridge route was easy.  So easy that Lupe followed the sweeping ridge only partway.  To save time, she cut straight across the tundra past a small pond on her way SSE to the base of a higher saddle.  After a steep climb, she regained the ridgeline only 0.33 mile NE of the summit.

Lupe on the long sweeping ridge before taking a shortcut directly to the saddle seen on the L. Indian Benchmark is now nearly cloud-free on the R. Photo looks S.
A pond comes into view. Lupe would pass to the R of it. Photo looks S.
Looking SSW at Indian Benchmark using the telephoto lens now that the lowest clouds have drifted away from the summit. The N face looked daunting. Lupe wouldn’t be able to climb that!
Lupe takes a break (SPHP needed one) on her way up to the saddle NE of Indian Benchmark. The long, high ridge in the background is part of K’esugi Mountain. Photo looks WSW.
Still on the climb to the high saddle, which is to the R of this photo. Taking this shortcut enabled Lupe to skip going over the rocky part of the sweeping E ridge seen beyond her. Photo looks NE.

When Lupe regained the ridgeline, SPHP was concerned.  The upper slopes of Indian Benchmark looked mighty steep.  Lupe went SW along the ridge to get as close and high as possible prior to a final assessment.

Yikes! Lupe has reached the ridgeline up on the high saddle, but the upper slopes of Indian Benchmark look a lot steeper and more formidable than they had from below. Photo looks SW.

As Lupe drew near the base of the sharp final rise up to the top of Indian Benchmark, SPHP became increasingly dismayed.  The N face of the mountain was way too cliffy to consider, as expected.  Any hopes of climbing straight up the narrow NE ridge were dashed, too.  Lupe could get partway up, but then it looked way too intimidating.

However, the previously unseen SE face was the real disappointment.  A very long, steep, rocky slope plunged far, far below to the Indian River valley.  Above Lupe’s current position, the slope began at the base of even steeper, more intact rock formations, almost cliffs, close to the top of the mountain.

Lupe near the base of the final steep rise to the top of Indian Benchmark. SPHP had hoped Lupe would be able to climb directly up the narrow NE ridge (straight ahead) or the SE face (on the L), but they both looked intimidating. What now? Photo looks SW.
Even though she was still below the top of Indian Benchmark, Lupe had this tremendous view to the E. Encouragingly, blue sky was visible toward the S.

Had coming this way all been a huge mistake?  Lupe was only 100-150 feet below the summit.  Up to this point, her route up Indian Benchmark had been simple and sweet.  Now there appeared to be no safe way up the final short stretch.

Maybe Lupe should have climbed K’esugi Mountain first?  The topo map showed a gently sloping ridge 0.125 mile wide going all the way to the summit of Indian Benchmark from K’esugi Mountain.  In fact, Lupe could see part of that wide ridge from here.  There was no way over to it.  Lupe would have to traverse the N face of Indian Benchmark to get there.  That just wasn’t happening.

Lupe could see part of the broad, gentle ridge leading to Indian Benchmark from K’esugi Mountain. Getting to the top of Indian Benchmark from that direction would have been a stroll in the park for Lupe. Unfortunately, there was no safe way over there from here. Photo looks W at K’esugi Mountain.

Time to calm down and consider the possibilities, all the possibilities – including retreat.  Lupe and SPHP milled around on the ridgeline, studying the views, especially the view of that unexpectedly steep SE face of the mountain.  The N face was definitely out.  It didn’t take long to conclude the narrow spine of the NE ridge to the top wasn’t worth trying, either, but that SE face … maybe it was possible to traverse that SE face and find a way?

If it hadn’t been for some of the experiences Lupe had already been through on her Summer of 2016 Dingo Vacation, SPHP would most certainly have called a retreat.  King’s Throne and Decoeli in the Yukon, Sukakpak and Dillon here in Alaska N of the Arctic Circle, they had all been challenging, daunting, even scary.  Yet Lupe had made it to the top of them all.

Most of those rocks on the SE face were fairly large.  They looked pretty stable.

Loop, let’s see how it goes!

Despite the dizzying view, things went fine, at first.  The rocks were mostly stable.  Lupe and SPHP picked a way along to the SW, gaining elevation gradually.  After some of Lupe’s other recent climbs, this wasn’t even scary.  Hopes began to soar.

Soon Lupe was near the base of some of the larger intact rock formations.  There appeared to be a reasonable route higher near one of the first ones.  Lupe and SPHP started up.  After a little progress, it was a no go.  Too cliffy!  Lupe retreated.  She continued working SW.

Another opportunity to climb higher soon presented itself beyond another rock formation.  Up and up.  Slowly, carefully.  The route got steeper, but there were handholds and footholds for SPHP.  Somehow, Lupe never seems to have a problem scrambling.  She was getting close to the top of the ridge visible above.

A false summit!  The top couldn’t be much farther, though.  Wrong again.  Lupe climbed and climbed.  The route was getting steeper.  Progress was slow.  There was starting to be more exposure than SPHP cared for.  The intrepid Carolina Dog showed no concern, but SPHP was on the verge of retreat again.

Another 5 or 6 feet almost straight up, there appeared to be some kind of a top, or at least a ledge.  SPHP made Lupe wait below, carefully climbing and then hoisting up onto the ledge, face and stomach down on the rock.  SPHP looked up, legs still dangling over the edge.  The view ahead was amazing and unexpected.

SPHP was at the far NE end of a narrow ridge.  The ridge was flat, perhaps 3 or 4 feet wide, 20 feet long, and covered with smallish to medium-sized rocks.  Drop-offs were on both sides.  After 20 feet, the ridge broadened out tremendously.

Looper!  You’ve done it!  We’re here!

Lupe was up in a flash.  SPHP literally crawled along the ridge, not daring to stand up until it had broadened out.  As soon as SPHP stood up, there it was!  One step to the N, sat the Indian Benchmark.

The Indian Benchmark sits near the far NE end of the vast summit area at the high point of the mountain. A register is nearby, but there’s not much of a summit cairn. Plenty of rocks around to build one, though!

This was it!  The summit of Indian Benchmark mountain.  SPHP congratulated Lupe heartily on her latest peakbagging success!  Somehow Lupe had reached the top of the mountain right at its very NE end.  SPHP must have turned to climb directly up the SE slope much sooner than intended.  Lupe hadn’t been very far from coming right up that NE spine of the mountain SPHP had supposedly ruled out.

The sky was clearing.  Off to the NW, the top of a gigantic peak peered over the remaining clouds.  Denali!?  For 10 minutes, Denali spied on Lupe, then vanished.

Skies were clearing as Lupe reached the Indian Benchmark. The top of Denali, or some massive peak, appeared briefly above the remaining clouds, as if the mountain was peering over to see how Lupe was faring. Photo looks NW.

That was a little spooky, Loop!  It’s as if Sauron has taken over Denali and is spying on you!  You aren’t carrying some ring of power on a necklace concealed under your fur with the intention of destroying it at Mt. Doom are you?

Mind your own business, SPHP!  The burdens of an American Dingo are no concern of yours.  My precious is … I mean, my burdens are my own.

Just wondering, for a few minutes there, I was starting to believe we were climbing Mt. Doom.

By the way, SPHP, is Mt. Doom somewhere around here?  Is it on our itinerary?

No, not as far as I know.

Not far from the survey benchmark, a little out onto the broad summit area, Lupe came to a ridiculously small cairn for a mountain covered with loose rocks.  A heavy-duty registry container leaned against it.  Lupe’s name is not on the registry.  Someone had closed the container so tightly, SPHP couldn’t get it open.  Oh well, time for a short break and photos.

Lupe on Indian Benchmark mountain at the pathetic little summit cairn. Photo looks SW.
Looking NE toward the end of the mountain where Lupe came up.
Intrepid Loopster on Indian Benchmark. Photo looks NNE.
Looking down on a good deal of the territory Lupe traveled through on her way to Indian Benchmark from the Little Coal Creek Trail.
K’esugi Mountain(R), Lupe’s next peakbagging objective, from Indian Benchmark. Getting across that broad, gentle ridge was going to be a snap! Photo looks W.
Looking SE across the Indian River valley. The large lake on the R is the one marked 1395 ft. elevation on the Peakbagger.com topo map.

As glorious as the views were, Lupe and SPHP stayed only 15 or 20 minutes up on Indian Benchmark.  Time waits for no Dingo.  Although it had certainly turned into a beautiful day with blue skies and white clouds, Lupe had gotten a rather late start due to the questionable morning weather.  Lupe still had to get to K’esugi Mountain (4,700 ft.), her next peakbagging objective.

Lupe about ready to leave Indian Benchmark for K’esugi Mountain, seen beyond her. Photo looks W.
A final look SW along K’esugi Ridge from Indian Benchmark. The K’esugi Ridge Trail popular with backpackers doesn’t come up onto the top of the ridge in this area, staying much lower down NW of K’esugi Mountain. Meanwhile, Carolina Dogs prowl among these remote high points.
Lupe starts down Indian Benchmark. Photo looks E.

Lupe went W, crossing the huge ridge over to K’esugi Mountain.  Along the way, Lupe had a great view back at Indian Benchmark and much of the NE ridge she had traveled to get there.

Indian Benchmark(R) from the E slopes of K’esugi Mountain. Much of the upper part of Lupe’s route up to Indian Benchmark is seen from the saddle(Center) then R along the NE ridge toward the summit. Photo looks ENE.

Less than an hour after leaving Indian Benchmark, Lupe arrived at the summit of K’esugi Mountain.  A 3 or 4 foot high semi-circular rock wall served as a summit cairn.  Lupe liked the rock wall.  It provided a bit of shelter from a cold breeze.

A registry was in a sturdy container nearly identical in every respect to the one on Indian Benchmark, with the single important exception that SPHP was able to get this one open.  While Lupe hid out in the semi-circle, SPHP logged her K’esugi Mountain peakbagging success into the summit registry.

Lupe reaches the summit of K’esugi Peak. The Chulitna River valley is seen in the distance. Photo looks WSW.
The summit area on Indian Benchmark had been large, but the top of K’esugi Mountain was even bigger. While the part of it seen here is quite flat, large areas sloped gently down at gradually increasing rates from the perimeter in most directions. Photo looks N.
Lupe takes shelter from the wind. Finally, a useful summit cairn! Photo looks WSW.

Lupe spent nearly an hour up on K’esugi Mountain.  She explored parts of the huge summit area.  SPHP had the idea that she would be able to go down the NW side of the mountain.  Not terribly thorough investigations in that direction were not encouraging.

Indian Benchmark from K’esugi Mountain. Photo looks E.
Lupe explores the huge summit area. The rock wall cairn at the actual true summit is in view to the SSW.

It would have been absolutely awesome fun if Denali would have come out to play.  The views would have been so tremendous!  To the S, skies were blue with puffy white clouds, but Denali and the rest of the Alaska Range to the NW stubbornly remained hidden in the clouds.  If anything, the sky was gradually clouding up even more in that direction again.

Denali and the rest of the Alaska Range NW of the Chulitna River valley refused to come out of the clouds to play with Lupe. If anything, the sky was clouding up even more in that direction. The rocks on parts of K’esugi Mountain were very dark, almost black, like those seen here. On closer inspection, they were all covered with thick black lichens. Photo looks WSW.
The beautiful Chulitna River valley. Photo looks W.

Lupe never went back to the NW end of the mountain to see if there really was a way down, or not.  There seemed to be enough time left in the day for Lupe to explore a longer route.  When it was time to leave, Lupe went S instead of N.

The route became a little worrisome.  The S ridge Lupe was going down became progressively narrower and steeper.  SPHP feared Lupe might cliff out, but she didn’t.  Lupe made it down to a big saddle leading over to the next high hill to the W.

Going down the steep S ridge of K’esugi Mountain. Photo looks W.

Lupe left the saddle going NW down a long rocky slope.  She lost another 300 feet of elevation before the terrain leveled out.  SPHP took a long time, but finally made it down.  Lupe turned N.

Ahead was rough terrain, an open wilderness filled with a variety of features.  There were rocks and ridges, hills and drop-offs, large boulder fields left by landslides or erosion.  Green oases surrounded diminutive mirror-like ponds connected by sparkling streams.  Soft tundra, easy on the paws, blanketed part of the scene.  A slowly melting snowbank invited Lupe to cool off.

The air was cool; the evening light, dramatic; the solitude, complete.  Lupe dashed around at great speed, abruptly changing directions, exploring wherever she wanted to go.  She stopped to drink cold water, and sniff the wild world.  As far as Lupe was concerned, this was the best part of the day.  For an hour, she was in Dingo Paradise.

Looking NE along part of the NW face of K’esugi Mountain.
Pure joy NW of K’esugi Mountain. Photo looks W.
N face of K’esugi Mountain. Photo looks S.

At a little pass near 3,500 foot elevation, Lupe found the K’esugi Ridge Trail.  She followed it E back to the Little Coal Creek Trail she had left many hours before.  Three guys from Houston, Texas were standing on the trail.  They had expensive wonderful cameras, and were planning to camp nearby, hoping to get some shots of Denali at sunrise tomorrow.

Twilight was already fading fast, but for a few minutes, a little patch of Denali peered stealthily at Lupe through a hole in the clouds.  Everyone was tremendously excited and encouraged.  SPHP wished the guys from Houston well.  Then Lupe proceeded down Little Coal Creek Trail looking forward to a meal and 40 winks at the G6. (11:31 PM)

Note: The 3.3 mile long Little Coal Creek Trail is the northernmost of several access routes to the K’esugi Ridge Trail in Denali State Park.  The K’esugi Ridge Trail is popular with multi-day backpackers for its alpine terrain and sweeping views to the N of Denali and the Alaska Range.  The traverse of K’esugi Ridge from the Little Coal Creek trailhead is as much as 37 miles to the Upper Troublesome Creek trailhead, but shorter treks are possible using other access trails.

Link to Map & Guide of K’esugi Ridge Trail System North

Link to Map & Guide of K’esugi Ridge Trail System South

Lupe in Dingo Paradise near K’esugi Mountain, Alaska.

Related Posts:

Next Adventure                            Prior Adventure

K’esugi Ridge: Ermine Hill & Peak 3700, Denali State Park, Alaska (9-4-18)

K’esugi Ridge: Ermine Hill, Denali State Park, Alaska (8-26-17)

K’esugi Ridge: Whimbrel Hill & Golog Benchmark, Denali State Park, Alaska (8-19-16)

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Dillon Mountain, Brooks Range, Alaska (8-15-16)

Day 17 of Lupe’s Summer of 2016 Dingo Vacation to the Canadian Rockies, Yukon & Alaska.

Was it foggy?  No, only condensation inside the G6.  Stepping outside, the sky was overcast.  No sunshine at all, but the clouds were pretty high.  Most of the mountaintops were in view.  Hopefully, the clouds would burn off as the day went on.

Yesterday’s feeble attempt to climb Dillon Mountain had ended before Lupe even gained any elevation.  It was SPHP’s fault.  SPHP had fallen into a blueberry trap.  All ambition had drained away as SPHP consumed blueberries, and Lupe dozed on the soft, spongy tundra.  The whole attempt had been doomed from the start, anyway.  The previous day’s climb of Sukakpak had sapped both Lupe’s and SPHP’s energy.

Today, though, this was it.  Now or never.  Lupe and SPHP left the G6 (9:41 AM, 57°F) parked N of milepost 207 along the Dalton Highway, and headed S.  Lupe followed a faint road through the forest, and then animal trails to the edge of the swamp.  Instead of trying to go SE through all those terrible tussocks again, this time Lupe went SW to the river.

Following the Bettles River S, Lupe made much faster progress than yesterday.  Part of the time it was possible to travel over exposed parts of the riverbed.  Other times, the river forced Lupe and SPHP up onto the E bank, where there were usually trails to follow.  Lupe was gaining on her first objective, a low saddle between Dillon Mountain and High Point 2003.

Looking SE along the Bettles River toward High Point 2003, the low hill at center. The S edge of Dillon Mountain is seen on the L. Lupe's first objective was the saddle between them.
Looking SE along the Bettles River toward High Point 2003, the low hill at center. The S edge of Dillon Mountain is seen on the L. Lupe’s first objective was the saddle between them.

Lupe turned SE, leaving the Bettles River when she got close to High Point 2003.  Lupe and SPHP crossed a lot of spongy ground on the way up to the saddle between High Point 2003 and Dillon Mountain.  Despite occasional wet areas with annoying tussocks, Lupe had avoided nearly all of the difficult tussock-infested swamp NE of the river.

Lupe on the N slope of High Point 2003(R). Much of the saddle area toward Dillon Mountain(L) is in view ahead. Photo looks E toward the end of Dillon Mountain's S ridge.
Lupe on the N slope of High Point 2003(R). Much of the saddle area toward Dillon Mountain(L) is in view ahead. Photo looks E toward the end of Dillon Mountain’s S ridge.

As a guide, Lupe and SPHP were using a copy of a Peakbagger.com trip report on Dillon Mountain (4,820 ft.) written by Richard Carey.  Carey, a highly experienced mountaineer, was the only Peakbagger.com account holder ever to have reported climbing Dillon Mountain.  Carey had climbed the mountain more than 21 years ago on August 4, 1995.

Carey’s trip report mentioned an old road in the saddle, but Lupe did not come to it.  Lupe and SPHP were staying on the S side of the saddle close to High Point 2003.  Maybe it was more toward the other side of the saddle, closer to Dillon Mountain?  Or maybe 21 harsh Arctic winters had obliterated the old road?

The ground was spongy with tundra moss, but otherwise travel wasn’t difficult through the saddle area.  Lupe and SPHP gave up on finding the old road, instead following animal trails that Lupe kept coming across.  According to Carey, the next objective was to reach Dillon Mountain’s S ridge, which was still a mile to the E.

As Lupe continued SE beyond High Point 2003, she came to a wide grassy area free of the tall dense bushes that grew nearby.  During wetter periods, the entire grassy area might well be a fairly large pond, but only a remnant pond was here today.  The grassy area was easy traveling.  Lupe and SPHP went along its NE edge.

Lupe beyond High Point 2003(L) near the E end of the grassy area. Photo looks WNW.
Lupe beyond High Point 2003(L) near the E end of the grassy area. Photo looks WNW.

Lupe left the grassy area and High Point 2003 behind, re-entering the forest.  She angled E, toward Dillon Mountain, crossing the saddle to avoid losing elevation.  Soon she started a moderate, steady ascent traversing Dillon’s lower slopes.

Carey advised getting up onto Dillon Mountain’s S ridge, but not until beyond the steep eroded cliffs on the upper portion of the ridge. A glance at the mountain made it easy to see why.

High, steep eroded cliffs along the upper S ridge(R) of Dillon Mountain. Even without Richard Carey's sound advice, Lupe and SPHP would have avoided any attempt from this direction. Photo looks N.
High, steep eroded cliffs along the upper S ridge(R) of Dillon Mountain. Even without Richard Carey’s sound advice, Lupe and SPHP would have avoided any attempt from this direction. Photo looks N.

It wasn’t clear exactly how far Lupe needed to go before attempting to climb up onto the huge S ridge.  Lupe and SPHP simply pressed on toward the lower end of the ridge looking for any promising way up.

In the forest, Lupe crossed three boulder fields left by landslides.  The first one was small.  The next two, considerably larger.  When Lupe reached the third boulder field, a forested ramp was visible on the far side.

Lupe reaches the third boulder field she crossed. The forested ramp she would climb to reach the S ridge starts almost directly above her, joining the main ridge toward the upper left. Photo looks ENE.

Lupe crossed the boulder field, continuing on to the base of the forested ramp.  The ramp was quite steep and fairly narrow, but Lupe began the ascent.  Trees and bushes made some parts of the climb annoyingly slow for SPHP, but there was nothing new about that.

About halfway up, water was dripping from the rock wall next to the ramp.  By now, it was sunny and warm, the clouds having dissipated somewhat.  Lupe seemed to like sitting in the cold dripping water.  SPHP immediately dubbed this place the “Dingo Shower”.

Lupe at the lightly dripping “Dingo Shower” on her way up the steep ramp to the S ridge. The water dripped so slowly, it didn’t show up well in this photo.

Lupe and SPHP made it to the top of the ramp.  There wasn’t really any clear spot where Lupe gained the S ridgeline.  Instead, she kept coming to and climbing up a series of benches.  All these benches were forested, relatively steep, and separated by stretches of even steeper ground.

The climb went on and on.  Lupe gained lots of elevation.  SPHP kept trying to lead Lupe toward the NE to see what was on the other side of the ridge, but the ridge was very broad.  For a long time there was no open view.  Eventually, though, the trees began to thin out.

Finally, Lupe made it above tree line.  A steep, open slope continued relentlessly higher.  Looking E toward Wiehl Mountain, SPHP could see Lupe must still have a big climb ahead.  Wiehl Mountain still looked much higher than where Lupe was.

Lupe above tree line, somewhere on Dillon Mountain's S ridge. Photo looks NNE.
Lupe above tree line, somewhere on Dillon Mountain’s S ridge. Photo looks NNE.
Wiehl Mountain from the S ridge of Dillon. Lupe still had a considerable climb ahead of her, since the highest part of Wiehl Mountain shown here is only about 300 feet higher than Dillon. The true summit of Wiehl Mountain is higher yet, but off the R edge of this photo. Photo looks E.
Wiehl Mountain from the S ridge of Dillon. Lupe still had a considerable climb ahead of her, since the highest part of Wiehl Mountain shown here is only about 300 feet higher than Dillon. The true summit of Wiehl Mountain is higher yet, but off the R edge of this photo. Photo looks E.

Lupe climbed and climbed.  SPHP started to become concerned.  Carey had warned in his trip report that the S ridge was complex.  About 4 uplifted bands of rock run E/W across the main S ridge.  Carey said they were more easily crossed lower down on the E side.

Lupe was getting mighty high up.  Although SPHP had been trying to head NE, the S ridge was very broad.  As far as SPHP could tell, Lupe hadn’t gotten around any uplifted rock bands yet.  Fear grew that Lupe was going to arrive up on some kind of dangerous pinnacle with no way forward.

Lupe still on her way up the steep S ridge. The Bettles River(L) is seen far below. Photo looks SSE.
Lupe still on her way up the steep S ridge. The Bettles River(L) is seen far below. Photo looks SSE.

At last, a little tor appeared high above Lupe, perched up at the end of the long slope.  As Lupe worked her way up to it, SPHP wondered if it was the “Tor of Glad Tidings” or the “Tor of Doom”?  The answer would be clear soon.

The little pinnacle of rock (R of Center) perched at the top of the long slope. Was it the Tor of Glad Tidings or the Tor of Doom? Photo looks N.
The little pinnacle of rock (R of Center) perched at the top of the long slope. Was it the Tor of Glad Tidings or the Tor of Doom? Photo looks N.

Lupe reached a shallow saddle at the top of the slope.  SPHP’s heart sank.  It was the Tor of Doom!  Some sort of cliff was almost certainly just out of view beyond it.

The summit of Dillon Mountain could be seen ahead, still many hundreds of feet higher, at the end of the long, jagged S ridge.  SPHP had made the fatal mistake, warned against by Carey, and led Lupe straight on up the S ridge to the uplifted rock bands.

Gah!  How sickening!  Was this defeat?  How was Lupe ever going to get to the summit?  Going all that way back down to try again farther E was unthinkable.  Just getting this far had sucked up so much energy and time!

Lupe near the Tor of Doom(R). The summit of Dillon Mountain was in view, still many hundreds of feet higher, beyond the jagged uplifted rock bands of the S ridge. Photo looks N.
Lupe near the Tor of Doom(R). The summit of Dillon Mountain was in view, still many hundreds of feet higher, beyond the jagged uplifted rock bands of the S ridge. Photo looks N.

There was a rounded flat area to the NE, a little higher than the Tor of Doom.  Glumly, SPHP climbed up there to take a look around.  If nothing else, it was time to take a few photos of how far Lupe had made it.  Lupe followed along as happy as a clam.

Sure enough, there was a cliff directly ahead.  It wasn’t all that high, maybe 20 feet?  Didn’t matter.  No way was SPHP going to attempt to navigate it, or let Lupe get hurt trying it either.  Even if Lupe could get past this cliff, it looked like a series of cliffs continued along the ridge.  SPHP tried to figure out where Lupe was on the topo map.  Around 700 feet below the summit seemed likely.

Dang, Carey!  Why did he have to be so right?

Well, because he’s an extraordinarily experienced mountaineer!  Over 2,600 ascents logged on Peakbagger.com on 6 continents around the world!  His top 10 ascents are all over 15,000 feet, the top 2 over 20,000 feet.  You did notice that, didn’t you, SPHP?

Oh, thank you so very much Looper!  And I’m just a foolish day hiker way out of my league.  I get it, and it’s plainly hard to deny given where we are right this very minute!

No need to get sore about it, SPHP, you asked.  I still love you, and this is a fabulous spot.  Look at the views!  Aren’t you all about the views?  What’s wrong with this?  What a glorious place!

You’re right, of course.  And I still love you, too Loop, so very much.  The views are fabulous, and we are extraordinarily lucky to be here.  The only thing wrong about this place is it’s not the summit, and there doesn’t appear to be a way to it without going way, way back down the mountain.  There’s not enough time to do that, even if I had the energy.  I thought we were going to make it.  Look over there, the summit’s not all that much higher than where we are now, not compared to how far you’ve already come!  Anyway, you’re right, picture time.  We’ll take a break and think about what to do next.  Maybe we’ll come up with something.

Why hadn’t SPHP thought this all through better when clearly warned?  Nothing to be done about it now.  Take those pictures.  Lupe had certainly made it to a dramatic and beautiful spot.

Lupe on the rounded high spot even higher than the Tor of Doom. Ahead lies the summit of Dillon Mountain, but a few feet beyond Lupe is an unseen cliff. Photo looks N.
Looking SW toward Sukakpak Mountain (4,459 ft.) in the background. In the foreground on the L is one of the jagged cliffs of Dillon's S ridge.
Looking SW toward Sukakpak Mountain (4,459 ft.) in the background. In the foreground on the L is one of the jagged cliffs of Dillon’s S ridge.
Lupe was tantalizingly close, but Carey's uplifted rock bands along the S ridge posed a seemingly unsurmountable challenge to Lupe and SPHP without going way back down the mountain to try again farther E, as Carey recommended all along. Photo looks N.
Lupe was tantalizingly close, but Carey’s uplifted rock bands along the S ridge posed a seemingly unsurmountable challenge to Lupe and SPHP without going way back down the mountain to try again farther E, as Carey recommended all along. Photo looks N.
At first, SPHP thought the peak on the R was a separate mountain, but soon realized it was almost certainly High Point 4228 along Dillon's E ridge. Lupe seemed to be 100 feet lower, which would have placed her still 700 feet below Dillon's summit. Photo looks NE.
At first, SPHP thought the peak on the R was a separate mountain, but soon realized it was almost certainly High Point 4228 along Dillon’s E ridge. Lupe seemed to be 100 feet lower, which would have placed her still 700 feet below Dillon’s summit. Photo looks NE.
Looking SE toward the true summit of 5,765 ft. Wiehl Mountain.
Looking SE toward the true summit of 5,765 ft. Wiehl Mountain.
The Bettles River is seen below on the L flowing toward its confluence with the Dietrich River (unseen) to form the Middle Fork of the Koyukuk River seen at upper L. Photo looks WSW.
The Bettles River is seen below on the L flowing toward its confluence with the Dietrich River (unseen) to form the Middle Fork of the Koyukuk River seen at upper L. Photo looks WSW.

Hey, wait a minute!  While taking the last photo, SPHP noticed a wide ledge of relatively level grassy ground in an unexpected direction.  It was close by to the SW, only a little below the cliff where Lupe and SPHP were standing.  Was there a way down to it?  Did it lead anywhere?

Lupe went back down to the small saddle below the Tor of Doom.  SPHP had thought there was nothing but a fearsome cliff beyond the saddle.  Getting closer to the other side, there was a huge cliff, but there was also a rocky chute leading directly down to the grassy ledge.  The ledge appeared to go up and around the 20 foot cliff Lupe and SPHP hadn’t been able to get beyond!

Looper!  It’s your Luck of the Dingo again!  Looks like we can at least make it to the next uplifted band of rock.  Come, on!

Lupe was already leading the way.  SPHP picked a way down the steep, rocky slope.  Soon Lupe stood on top of the next band of rock.  Once again, there appeared to be no way forward along the ridge, but at least Lupe was past the first cliff now!

Looking S from the top of the 2nd band of rocks back toward the low cliff(L) that had stymied Lupe and SPHP at the 1st band for a while. That 1st cliff wasn't all 20 feet high, after all. Parts of it were only 10 or 12 feet high. The low cliff still would have forced Lupe and SPHP a long way back down the mountain, if it hadn't been for the short, steep, rocky chute which led down to the grassy area below. The chute is a little hard to pick out, but is near the center of this photo.
Looking S from the top of the 2nd band of rocks back toward the low cliff(L) that had stymied Lupe and SPHP at the 1st band for a while. That 1st cliff wasn’t all 20 feet high, after all. Parts of it were only 10 or 12 feet high. The low cliff still would have forced Lupe and SPHP a long way back down the mountain, if it hadn’t been for the short, steep, rocky chute which led down to the grassy area below. The chute is a little hard to pick out, but is near the center of this photo.
Well, SPHP, the good news is we are a little higher and closer than before. The bad news is there are more rock bands and cliffs ahead. By the way, suddenly the weather's not looking so hot, either. Now what?
Well, SPHP, the good news is we are a little higher and closer than before. The bad news is there are more rock bands and cliffs ahead. By the way, suddenly the weather’s not looking so hot, either. Now what?

On top of the second rock band, Lupe was a little higher than before, and a little closer to the summit.  The view ahead was still disconcerting.  More rock bands and more cliffs.  They looked impassable.  Now what, indeed?

Looking around, it appeared that Lupe might be able to get by this 2nd cliff by following the rock band she was on down to the SE.  About 150 feet lower, the rock band looked like it broke up enough to destroy the cliff’s continuity.  Lupe should be able to get around it down there.  Only 150 feet of elevation loss was tolerable, but once she was beyond the 2nd rock band, then what?

The valley between the main S and E ridges was in view.  Off to the NNE, SPHP could see sort of a gap in one of the biggest bands of rock sloping down the mountain.  The gap was at a point not too far below Lupe’s current elevation.  If she could get around this 2nd cliff, and make the traverse over to and through that gap, she would be well on her way to the middle of the SE valley.  The SE valley was very steep, but maybe Lupe could climb straight up it?

Well, Loopster, that valley doesn’t look any worse than Decoeli (7,650 ft.), and you made it up that.  Let’s see if we can get over there.

150 feet of elevation loss to get around the 2nd cliff turned out to be more like 300 feet.  Lupe was 1,000 feet below the summit again, but at least she could resume climbing slowly once more, while angling toward the gap.  More importantly, by staying well below the S ridgeline as Carey had advised, Lupe could hopefully bypass any more difficulties with cliffs and rock bands.

The summit of Dillon Mountain disappeared from view.  A cloud passed over, sprinkling rain.  SPHP called a halt to put on an old blue plastic rain poncho.  It wasn’t very good, but helped some.

That’s your emergency rain gear, SPHP?  You look like the Cookie Monster!

Yeah, yeah, let’s go, Dingo!

The plan worked!  Lupe and the Cookie Monster made it to the gap and beyond.  Blue sky reappeared.  The blue rain poncho went back in the pack.  Lupe reached the middle of the SE valley.  SPHP began plodding slowly straight up the steep slope.  The climb was easiest where there was a little heather, and not just loose rocks.  Fortunately, for a while, there were plenty of heather routes to follow.

Way down below, something was moving!  A small herd of mountain goats was running single file across the valley.  They disappeared over one of the rock bands of the S ridge.

Lupe heads for the SE valley. Photo looks NNW.
Lupe heads for the SE valley. Photo looks NNW.
Lupe reaches the middle of the SE valley. The summit is still way, way up there! Photo looks NW.
Mountain goats ran single file across the SE valley far below. They soon disappeared over one of the rock bands of the S ridge. Photo taken using the telephoto lens.
Mountain goats ran single file across the SE valley far below. They soon disappeared over one of the rock bands of the S ridge. Photo taken using the telephoto lens.

The steep climb seemed endless.  Lupe became bored with SPHP’s dreadfully slow pace.  She began roaming at will all over the vast SE valley, as if she was a mountain goat herself.  She often went out of SPHP’s line of sight, reappearing suddenly hundreds of feet above or below.  She returned frequently to check on SPHP’s snail-paced progress.

The energy Lupe displayed was astounding!  Once, SPHP became worried.  Lupe couldn’t be spotted anywhere.  SPHP called and called her.  In a couple of minutes, a tiny American Dingo appeared at least 500 feet down the mountain, racing practically straight up.  It only took her two minutes to reach SPHP, arriving breathless and panting like a steam engine.

Loopster!  That was incredible!  You could be at the summit in 3 minutes, couldn’t you?  Take it a little easy, though, and stay closer.  You’re going to bust a lung doing that!

Bit by bit, the summit was getting closer.  SPHP was almost certain Lupe was going to reach the top of Dillon Mountain.  Unfortunately, the weather had been deteriorating again for some time.  Blue sky was losing the battle against the spreading gray clouds.

Gray clouds spread across the sky as Lupe and SPHP progressed up the very steep SE valley. Wiehl Mountain(L) is disappearing from view, but the Bettles River can still be seen. Photo looks SE.
Gray clouds spread across the sky as Lupe and SPHP progressed up the very steep SE valley. Wiehl Mountain(L) is disappearing from view, but the Bettles River can still be seen. Photo looks SE.
Lupe was having a grand time roaming the SE valley while climbing Dillon Mountain. Although SPHP was gradually getting closer to the summit, clouds kept obscuring it. Photo looks NW.
Lupe was having a grand time roaming the SE valley while climbing Dillon Mountain. Although SPHP was gradually getting closer to the summit, clouds kept obscuring it. Photo looks NW.

300 or 400 feet below the summit, it started raining again.  Lupe was so close to success, there was no way she was turning back, even if there wouldn’t be anything to see except fog.  Sometimes there were still breaks in the clouds.  SPHP continued to hope Lupe would have some kind of a view.

Since it wasn’t raining hard, and the showers were intermittent, SPHP was slow to put the Cookie Monster costume back on again.  Another mistake.  SPHP wound up getting fairly wet.  Should have done it earlier.  The Cookie Monster costume didn’t come off again the rest of the day.  Lupe’s fur was all soaking wet and cold to the touch, but she wasn’t shivering at all.  She still seemed to be in great spirits.

The climb got tougher.  Heather was virtually non-existent.   Lupe and SPHP climbed among loose, wet, gray rocks.  There were bigger, more stable rock formations over toward the E ridge.  SPHP worked over that way.  The climb remained very steep.  Rocks were sliding and tumbling with every step.

Carey had suggested finishing the climb up on the upper E ridge, which leads directly to the summit.  However, it looked like pretty rough going on top of the ragged ridgeline.  SPHP stayed just below the firm rock formations, using those rocks for assistance.

Not too much farther to go! Photo looks W from a little below the top of the ragged E ridge.
Not too much farther to go! Photo looks W from a little below the top of the ragged E ridge.

Perhaps 200 feet below the summit, Lupe reached a sizable, nearly level area with a thin covering of heather right up on top of the E ridge.  As expected, the ridge proved too rough to stay up on it.  The climb got even steeper, as Lupe and SPHP continued up a little S and below the ridgeline during frequent rain showers.

Lupe returned to the top of the E ridge again above a large rock formation.  She was on another fairly roomy level spot.  There was a patch of heather, but this level area was mostly covered with sand.  A steep slope of sand and small rocks led up to a small saddle between two rock outcroppings about 30 feet higher up.  The summit!  Was it true?!  If so, Lupe was almost there!

Lupe on the final, short sandy slope to the summit. Photo looks W.

A minute or two later, Lupe was there, perched high on Dillon Mountain right next to the summit cairn!  Lupe received exultant congratulations and praise from SPHP, who shook her expert mountain-climbing front paws enthusiastically.  The luck and persistence of the Dingo had prevailed!

Lupe perched next to the summit cairn on Dillon Mountain, Brooks Range, Alaska (8-15-16). Photo looks WNW.
Lupe perched next to the summit cairn on Dillon Mountain, Brooks Range, Alaska (8-15-16). Photo looks WNW.
As far as SPHP knows, Dillon Mountain is the northernmost peak any Carolina Dog has ever been seen on.
As far as SPHP knows, Dillon Mountain is the northernmost peak any Carolina Dog has ever been seen on.

It wasn’t raining when Lupe reached the top of Dillon Mountain.  The clouds had lifted somewhat, too.  The views, although not nearly as clear as they had been 2 days earlier on nearby Sukakpak Mountain, were still incredible and much better than SPHP had expected.

The Dietrich River, Dalton Highway and even the Alaskan oil pipeline are seen far below. Photo looks NNW.
The Dietrich River, Dalton Highway and even the Alaskan oil pipeline are seen far below. Photo looks NNW.
The 50 foot long summit area on Dillon Mountain featured two rocky high points separated by a saddle that wasn't much lower than either one. The N high point where the summit cairn sat was only moderately higher than the S high point pictured here. Photo looks S.
The 50 foot long summit area on Dillon Mountain featured two rocky high points separated by a saddle that wasn’t much lower than either one. The N high point where the summit cairn sat was only moderately higher than the S high point pictured here. Photo looks S.
Looking down the sandy slope at the last nearly level spot Lupe had reached along the E ridge on the way up. Wiehl Mountain(R) is seen across the valley. Photo looks ESE.
Looking down the sandy slope at the last nearly level spot Lupe had reached along the E ridge on the way up. Wiehl Mountain(R) is seen across the valley. Photo looks ESE.
The small prominence seen R of Center is part of the start of the S ridge. Wiehl Mountain(L) again in the background. Photo looks SE.
The small prominence seen R of Center is part of the start of the S ridge. Wiehl Mountain(L) again in the background. Photo looks SE.

Tremendous cliffs were in every direction, except toward the steep valley to the SE where Lupe and SPHP had come up.  While SPHP took photos, Lupe nestled down in a relatively sheltered spot among the rocks and sand in the saddle between the N and S high points.  A gigantic cliff was only a couple feet away.

Our soggy Carolina Dog heroine tries to nestle on rocks and sand in the only slightly lower saddle between the N and S high points. A gigantic cliff is only a couple feet beyond her. Photo looks W.
Our soggy Carolina Dog heroine tries to nestle on rocks and sand in the only slightly lower saddle between the N and S high points. A gigantic cliff is only a couple feet beyond her. Photo looks W.
Comfy! Hmm, maybe not so much, but it will have to do. Photo looks W.
Comfy! Hmm, maybe not so much, but it will have to do. Photo looks W.
Sukakpak Mountain, which Lupe had climbed only 2 days ago. Photo looks SSW.
Sukakpak Mountain, which Lupe had climbed only 2 days ago. Photo looks SSW.
Looking down the infamous jagged S ridge. Bettles River below. Photo looks SSE.
Looking down the infamous jagged S ridge. Bettles River below. Photo looks SSE.

SPHP realized Lupe wouldn’t be able to spend much time up on Dillon Mountain.  Fog and rain showers were visible in many directions.  Nearly all distant mountains were obscured by clouds.  Rain could start in again any time.

It was also getting late in the day.  Although Lupe had demonstrated that she could have made the entire round trip to Dillon Mountain and back in only an hour or two, dawdling around waiting for SPHP to drag up the mountain had taken nearly forever!

A patch of blue sky appears above the Dietrich River. It sill looked like there could be more rain coming at almost any time. Photo looks NNW.
A patch of blue sky appears above the Dietrich River. It sill looked like there could be more rain coming at almost any time. Photo looks NNW.

Roughly 20 minutes after Lupe arrived at the summit, the rain hit again.  Most definitely time to go!  Lupe and SPHP were already underway, when suddenly there came a single loud peal of thunder.  Lupe never heard another one, nor did she see any lightning, but the thunder lit whatever fire could be lit under SPHP.  From then on, it was down the mountain, as fast as possible.

As fast as possible wasn’t fast at all.  Going down the super steep slope was harder and slower than climbing it had been.  Rocks slid out from underfoot, tumbling hundreds of feet.  It rained often, sometimes rather hard.  Poor Lupe was absolutely drenched.  When she was finally far enough down the mountain so there was some vegetation, she tried desperately to dry herself off on the heather.  It didn’t work.  Everything was soaking wet.

There was no point in trying to go back to the S ridge where Lupe had left it.  The sun would be down soon.  SPHP didn’t think it would be possible in fading light to find the steep forested ramp where the Dingo Shower was in order to get down off the ridge.  The plan was to just head straight on down the SE valley, then follow whatever river was at the bottom around the S end of the mountain.

Down, down, down!   Lupe reached a waterfall in the SE valley.  Below it, the valley was narrow and steep on both sides.  The terrain forced Lupe and SPHP down onto the valley floor, which continued to lose elevation rapidly.  Fortunately, the stream was underground nearly all the time.

Lupe below the waterfall in the SE valley. She had already lost a tremendous amount of elevation.

Below the waterfall, Lupe continued to lose lots of elevation.  Finally, SPHP grew worried.  Hours had gone by since leaving the summit.  The sun must be down by now.  The end of the SE valley looked like it was still a long way off.  There was almost certainly a river of some sort at the bottom.  What if it went through a narrow chasm boxed in by cliffs?  Lupe and SPHP would be stuck out here all night.

That didn’t sound good at all.  SPHP had come prepared only for a day hike.  No tent or supplies.  SPHP had matches, but there was no way to start a fire with everything totally drenched, and more rain coming.  Other than cold hands, SPHP was fine.  Lupe, however, had been cold and wet for a long time now.  She still wasn’t shivering, but what would happen when it got too dark to be moving around generating heat?

Maybe it was better to get out of this SE valley, and try going around the mountain now, while there was still some light?  SPHP decided it was the best option.  Lupe and SPHP left the SE valley, entering the forest.

The forest floor was covered with thick, spongy, wet moss.  It was a lot easier to move here than down in that interminable SE valley.  SPHP charged through the woods.  Lupe seemed to realize there was a need for speed.  She sniffed frantically everywhere, searching out the best routes ahead.  Clouds obscured much of the precious twilight.  Rain continued sprinkling now and then.

After a while, there were cliffs to the SSE.  A river was in view farther down the mountain.  Lupe and SPHP stayed above the cliffs, turning more to the SW.  The dark outline of Sukakpak came into view ahead.  That was great news.  Lupe was making progress!

Lupe started coming to landslides full of rocks and boulders.  At one of the first landslides she came to, there was a particularly big rock.  SPHP laughingly asked Lupe if she remembered that rock.  Lupe whined.  How odd!  Then it struck SPHP.  That rock did look faintly familiar.

SPHP looked around, back the way Lupe had just come.  Even in the growing darkness, SPHP was almost certain of it.  This was the landslide near the Dingo Shower ramp up to the S ridge.  In fact, there was the Dingo Shower ramp, barely visible in the gloom.  Lupe was already past it on the way back.

Haha, Loop!  We’ve got it made now!  Since we aren’t going to die of hypothermia tonight after all, maybe we should try to avoid being eaten by grizzlies, too?

SPHP started to sing.  SPHP is a terrible singer, but if you are trying to drive away grizzly bears, how good do you have to be?  What the singing lacked in quality, SPHP made up with volume.  The song of the hour was, of course, She’ll Be Comin’ Around the Mountain!

Lupe crossed the next 2 landslides, she passed through the saddle between Dillon Mountain and High Point 2003, this time staying much closer to Dillon Mountain.  She even seemed to find a stretch of Carey’s old road here, though it was hard to tell for certain in the darkness.

Nearing the Bettles River, there were troubles crossing a couple of ravines with water and mud in them.  SPHP finally just plunged right through, getting soaking wet feet.  Along the river, SPHP got stuck in dense stands of tall bushes, while Lupe continued racing around sniffing as if they didn’t exist.

Lupe drove those 6 white horses around the mountain a zillion times, but at long last she reached the Dalton Highway and the G6.

It must have been after midnight when Lupe jumped in.  Up on her stack of pillows and blankets, she started licking herself frantically.  SPHP toweled her off, fed her an entire can of Alpo, and put her special blankie on her.  She soon felt much warmer, and fell asleep almost immediately.

The Cookie Monster costume was in tatters.  SPHP was soaking wet and cold, too.  SPHP tore off the old blue rain poncho, stripped down, toweled off, and put on dry clothes.  Better!  Now to turn on the heater in the G6, and enjoy the luxury of warmth.  Click…  Click?!  Nothing but click?  Nope.  Click was it.  The battery was dead.

Lupe climbing Dillon Mountain, Brooks Range, Alaska 8-15-16
Climbing Dillon Mountain, Brooks Range, Alaska 8-15-16

Spiffy.  Nothing to do about it now.  SPHP piled on every available blanket and snuggled down under.  The battery was just going to have to wait until morning.

Related Links:

Next Adventure                            Prior Adventure

Sukakpak Mountain, Brooks Range, Alaska (8-13-16)

Lupe’s Last Mile North, Brooks Range, Alaska (8-14-16)

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