At 6:00 AM on 7-28-13, Day 19 of Lupe’s 2013 Dingo Vacation to the Beartooths & Canadian Rockies, Lupe was back at the Icefields Centre just off the Icefields Parkway Hwy 93. The sun was starting to shine on the snowy peaks surrounding the Athabasca Glacier. No one else was around. The Icefields Centre wouldn’t open for a quite a while yet. Even though it was statistically close to the very hottest time of year, the morning had the bright crisp feel of a day in late fall back home. It was a chilly 32°F. Lupe and SPHP admired the magnificent mountain scene in the early morning glow.
A couple of really big waterfalls were on Lupe’s agenda for the day. Lupe and SPHP headed N on the Icefields Parkway Hwy 93. The road steadily lost elevation at a pretty good clip. After a 15 minute drive admiring the towering mountains in every direction, the G6 descended into a bank of fog that lasted for miles. There were road signs for Caribou crossings that added to a sense of mystery and isolation. Lupe was farther N than she had ever been before.
Eventually the fog bank ended. The mountains were visible again. The road by now was only losing elevation slowly. It was almost level. On the right (E) side of the highway, SPHP spotted a sign for the Poboktan Creek trailhead. SPHP turned off the highway to check it out, but had to disappoint Lupe when it turned out to be a trailhead for long distance backpacking. Dogs, even American Dingoes and Carolina Dogs, were prohibited.
Back on the Icefields Parkway Hwy 93 again, it wasn’t long before SPHP drove past a restaurant on the left (W) side of the road. Going past the restaurant, SPHP saw signs on it that said something about Sunwapta Falls. SPHP had been watching for road signs for the Sunwapta Falls turnoff, but SPHP had either missed them or they didn’t exist. No matter. SPHP turned around and drove back to take the paved side road heading W to the Sunwapta Falls picnic ground and trailhead. It wasn’t far at all to the falls and Lupe was there within just a few minutes.
The Sunwapta River starts at the Athabasca Glacier, which wasn’t that far away back where Lupe had just started her morning only a little while ago. It was already a powerful river. Sunwapta Falls was impressive. The Sunwapta River is a tributary of the Athabasca River, which it would soon join not too many more miles away downstream.
SPHP casually checked the trail information and map posted near the parking lot. There were 2 trails. One went a long distance far beyond anything SPHP had in mind. However, there was another shorter one going down to Lower Sunwapta Falls. The information said Lower Sunwapta Falls actually consists of a series of 3 more waterfalls in close succession.
The hike to Lower Sunwapta Falls was supposed to be just a 1 hour round trip. It sounded like fun. There probably wouldn’t be that many people going to the lower falls. Upper Sunwapta Falls was the tallest of the falls, and very conveniently right there at the parking lot. Lupe could probably bark at squirrels along the trail to the lower falls without annoying anyone.
There was a bridge across the river just downstream of Sunwapta Falls. Lupe and SPHP admired the falls from the bridge. SPHP then continued on across and followed the trail on the other side. The trail disappeared into the forest. Lupe likes being in forests and was having a good time. There were, indeed, a few squirrels to bark at, which she did with great enthusiasm.
However, it started becoming clear that the trail was leaving the Sunwapta River far behind. SPHP started to suspect this was the long distance trail. SPHP should have paid closer attention to the map back at the falls. After following this trail for at least a mile, the Sunwapta River could barely be heard in the distance. It was time to turn around.
Back at Sunwapta Falls again, SPHP looked around. From the high fenced viewpoint farthest downstream was a trail following the river. This trail was on the same side of the river as the parking lot. It proved to be the trail that does lead down to Lower Sunwapta Falls. It lost elevation at a pretty good clip. Soon Lupe reached the lower falls.
The lower falls were pretty impressive and worth seeing. The trail continued along the Sunwapta River for some distance downstream beyond the lower falls. Lupe was having such a good time, that SPHP followed it a while longer before turning around. The Sunwapta River became a gentler stream as it continued on its way.
When Lupe and SPHP finally got back to the G6, it was after 10:00 AM, but still only 36°F. Things had gotten busy again. The parking lot isn’t all that large, but cars and people were coming and going.
Leaving Sunwapta Falls behind, Lupe and SPHP got back on the Icefields Parkway Hwy 93 again still going N. Very soon SPHP saw another turnout for a trail on the right (E) side of the highway. Only one other car was at the trailhead when Lupe arrived. A sign said the trail went to Buck and Osprey Lakes, but there were no maps or distances given. SPHP had no idea what to expect, but it looked like an opportunity for some exploration with Lupe where there wouldn’t be too many people around.
The forest was leafy and damp. Lupe was soon quite a soggy doggie, but she was perfectly happy with that. Lupe didn’t have to look long to find the first lake. A short trek led to a sign at a trail intersection. Buck Lake was just 0.1 km straight ahead, and Osprey Lake was only 1.2 km to the left. Lupe checked out Buck Lake first. Buck Lake was shallow and weedy, but looked like it might be a great quiet place for ducks or other waterfowl. Lupe went back to the intersection and took the trail to Osprey Lake.
Osprey Lake was bigger, more open, deeper and cleaner looking. There were a couple of kayakers on it. It appeared as though there was better access to Osprey Lake from the other side. There were more people and kayaks over there. There was no continuation of the trails Lupe was on along the shores of either Buck or Osprey Lake, so Lupe and SPHP just went to each lake, took a look, and headed back. Lupe still had a great time in the wet, leafy, mossy forest.
It was a bit past 11 AM when Lupe returned to the G6. She had already been on 3 trails this morning. SPHP found a picnic ground on the W side of the Icefields Parkway Hwy 93 just a short drive N from the Buck & Osprey Lakes trailhead. This little picnic ground is now a favorite spot. It is just off the highway, so access is super easy. Its great attraction, though, is that it is right next to the Athabasca River with some excellent views. Several of the picnic tables are just a few feet away from the edge of the riverbank.
After lunch, it was only 5 or 6 miles farther N on the Icefields Parkway Hwy 93 to a left turn onto Hwy 93A, which very shortly leads to parking lots for the mighty Athabasca Falls. By this point, the Sunwapta River has joined the Athabasca. The flow of water over Athabasca Falls is tremendous and powerful.
Athabasca Falls is a huge tourist attraction. SPHP was very glad Lupe got to see it. The falls are gorgeous and amazing.
Athabasca Falls was justifiably a very busy place. Lupe spent a good 30 or 45 minutes there, during which time she made a few friends among the throng. In truth, though, she probably far preferred the less dramatic and much more ordinary forest trail to Buck and Osprey Lakes. One good chattering squirrel makes her happier than a crowd of strangers. SPHP often feels the same way.
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Next Adventure Prior Adventure
Takakkaw Falls, Yoho National Park, British Columbia, Canada (7-25-13)
Athabasca Falls & Miette Hot Springs, Jasper National Park, Canada (7-30-14)
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