Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 326 – Dome Mountain & Another Peak 5452 Fiasco (3-15-24)

10:33 AM, 42ºF, Gilt Edge Road (USFS Road No. 170) – After driving past quite a few homes and “no outlet” signs in a woodsy subdivision, SPHP parked at a muddy pullout on the R.

The adventure begins! Photo looks N.

I don’t know, Loop.  Guess this will do.

Uh-oh!  Don’t know what, SPHP?

Well, we’re in the right general area, Loopster, but it’s been 9 years and a day since we first visited what’s left of Anchor Hill (5,720 ft.), and then went on to Dome Mountain (5,510 ft.).  Evidently I no longer remember exactly how we got to them.  Nothing looks the least bit familiar to me.  I thought it would.

You should have reviewed my old posts before we came then, SPHP.

Wish I had now, Looper.  Wasn’t expecting to see so much private property on the way in.

C’mon now, SPHP!  You told me that this was going to work.  3rd time’s a charm for Peak 5452, and all that sort of thing.

Oh, I’m just confused.  This should still work, Looper.  Bit of a trek from here, but the map shows this road leading to a couple of routes going right past Anchor Hill, then continuing NE to the general vicinity of the ridge S of Dome Mountain.  If we get that far without anyone objecting, we’ve got it made.  That ridge is how we reached Dome Mountain 9 years ago, and we can continue on to Peak 5452 from there.

So what are we waiting for, SPHP?  An engraved invitation?

Oh, nothing, I guess.  Onward!  Puppy, ho!

Trotting N along Gilt Edge Road on a gentle incline, Lupe passed under a power line.  The road quickly topped out, and a short gradual descent led to a junction with a couple of other roads at a curve.  A red and white sign was posted along the route SPHP had intended to take.

Veteran’s Driveway sign.

What does it say, SPHP?

Veteran’s driveway, Loop.  No UTV’s or ATV’s.

Oh, we’re fine then, aren’t we, SPHP?  We don’t have any unidentified TV’s.

Probably.  The sign seems pretty friendly, Looper.  Actually has a smiley face and says “Thank you!”

Even better, SPHP.  Let’s keep going!

Eh, I don’t know, Loopster.  Seems odd to have a driveway sign here.  The map shows this road continuing on for a couple of miles with quite a few off-shoots.  Where is this Veteran’s place?  The next house we come to?  End of the road?

How should I know, SPHP?  What else can we do?

Why don’t we just stick with Gilt Edge Road, Loop?  It’ll lead to another route that will get us close to Anchor Hill where it will join up with this same Veteran’s driveway side road.  Maybe the situation will be clearer over there?

Fine with me, SPHP.

Gilt Edge Road went E from this junction, continuing downhill.  SPHP soon had a change of heart, reinforced by a more careful examination of the topo map.

Gilt Edge Road is going to keep going downhill for a bit before turning up again, Loop.  Let’s not lose all that elevation.

Sheesh!  Make up your mind, if you still have one, SPHP!  Back up to the Veteran’s driveway then?

Yes, but not along Gilt Edge Road.  Let’s just take a shortcut through the forest to where we can rejoin it near Anchor Hill.

Leaving Gilt Edge Road, Lupe climbed a steepish forested slope that soon led to the top of a hill a short distance NE.  This summit was open, and had a great view of a large region to the E where the mountains had been torn apart and rearranged.  Various roads ran through it all.

Wow!  What happened here, SPHP?

I believe you’re looking at the former Gilt Edge gold and silver mine, Loop.  It’s a contaminated EPA superfund site now.

Part of the former Gilt Edge Gold Mine. Photo looks E.

Contaminated?  That’s sad, SPHP.

Tragic, Loop!  If I understand correctly, contaminating might be a better word for it.  Of course, the rock is all natural, but exposing so much of it at once during mining operations allows toxic quantities of heavy metals and other chemicals to leach out into streams and aquifers.

Destroys the mountains that used to be here, too, SPHP.

Absolutely!  See that mountain that essentially had half of it sliced off over to the NE, Loopster?  If I’m reading the map correctly, that’s what’s left of Anchor Hill.

More of the Gilt Edge Mine. What’s left of Anchor Hill (L). Photo looks NE.

Didn’t you say that we’d been to Anchor Hill 9 years ago, SPHP?  I don’t have any recollection of ever seeing a cliff like that.

Me, either, Loop, and the mine’s been closed for decades.  I can’t explain it.

A total mystery, but one that had nothing at all to do with the American Dingo’s main objective today, which was to finally get to Peak 5452 after tagging Dome Mountain along the way.

Abandoning the hill with the view of the Gilt Edge Mine, Lupe roamed generally N for a good 0.5 mile before turning E and almost immediately running into the same road that had the Veteran’s driveway sign back at the first junction.  This road skirted Anchor Hill to the N, then wound around a bit as it took a generally NE course.

More red and white signs about the Veteran’s driveway appeared, and at least one mentioned U.S. Veterans, as if whatever property the driveway led to was owned by a group or organization rather than an individual.  In any case, the Carolina Dog kept going, encountering no traffic at all.

Continuing along the Veteran’s driveway road. Photo looks NE.

Nearly a mile beyond Anchor Hill, the road finally forked, leading to 2 separate properties.  The N fork led almost immediately to a fancy black gate for the Shooting Star Ranch.  The fork going SE appeared to end at a house that wasn’t too far away.

Which way, SPHP?

Still don’t remember any of this.  Avoid them both, Loopster.  The ridge to Dome Mountain that we’re trying to get to is 0.5 mile NNE.

The American Dingo plunged into the forest.  Gradually losing elevation, she eventually came to a wide saddle leading to a shorter uphill stretch.  When she reached the top, sure enough, Dome Mountain’s rocky summit block was in sight only another 0.5 mile N.  Peak 5452 was in view, too, a perfectly ordinary forested hill 1.5 miles NNW.

Heading up to the ridge S of Dome Mountain. Photo looks NNE.
Peak 5452 (L), Whitewood Peak (Center), Dome Mountain (R). Photo looks N.

Alrighty, Loop!  We’re finally getting somewhere!  I have no recollection of how on earth we ever got here 9 years ago, but this looks familiar.  We just follow this ridge NE over to the S end of Dome Mountain, then circle NW to reach the summit.  Much of this region burned way back when, so there will be a ton of miserable deadfall in our way until we get to the opposite end of the ridge, but it’s all cake after that!

Miserable deadfall.  Yes, that does sound familiar, SPHP.  It’s the cake I’m interested in!

Lupe had reached the ridge at a fairly high spot that was both wide and relatively level.  Following it ENE, the ridge began to narrow.  Soon the Carolina Dog was out of the taller, more mature forest and into an area where new growth dominated.  Young pines, aspens, and bushes slowed progress.  The deadfall SPHP remembered was still here, and remained somewhat of a problem, but it was mostly small diameter stuff already significantly weathered and weakened by the passage of time.

Off to the ESE, Bear Den Mountain (5,641 ft.) was in view across Lost Gulch.

Bear Den Mountain (R of Center). Photo looks ESE.

We were over there a long time ago, too, weren’t we, SPHP?

Yes, we were, Loop.  I remember you standing on a log near the summit, then going down it’s W slope to some kind of a road.

Well, then maybe Bear Den Mountain is where we went to Anchor Hill from, and then wound up over here somehow, SPHP?

Hmm.  You might be right, Looper.  Makes me curious what your old Bear Den Mountain post says.  I’ll have to check it out when we get home.

The ridge continued to narrow and went gradually downhill.  Some cool yellow, orange, and tan rock formations ran along the narrowest part of the spine.  The outcroppings weren’t very big, but made excellent Dingo perches from which to enjoy the views.

Following the ridge. S end of Dome Mountain region (L & Center), Lost Gulch (R). Photo looks NE.
Dome Mountain summit (R of Center). Photo looks NW.

Approaching the S end of Dome Mountain, the ridge widened out again.  A gradual climb through an open region full of the decaying deadfall led toward the live forest.  Getting through the deadfall was really no longer all that difficult.  Soon Lupe was trotting along easily as she explored the relatively flat, open, live forest SPHP remembered from long ago.

Exploring the S end of Dome Mountain. Photo looks NNE.

Hah!  We made it to the cake part, Loopster!

I’m loving it, SPHP!

Heading N through the open forest, progress was rapid.  However, when the time came to turn W toward Dome Mountain’s summit, Lupe quickly ran into thickets of dense bushes and more deadfall.  A rocky high point provided a glimpse of Dome Mountain’s summit block, which wasn’t that far away now.  The vegetation covering most of the rest of the terrain leading to it looked easier, too, which was encouraging.

Getting closer! Dome Mountain’s summit block (R). Photo looks W.

From this high point, an intense, but short bushwhack got the Carolina Dog to a minor dip leading to a region of lower bushes and less deadfall that was much easier to deal with.  Soon Lupe was standing on a little snowbank on Dome Mountain’s N ridge.  Minutes ago, 7 or 8 deer had been up here.  The summit block was now only a short, easy stroll away.

Both Terry Peak (7,069 ft.), and a glimpse of Deer Mountain (6,651 ft.) were in sight off to the WSW.

On Dome Mountain’s N ridge. Summit block (L), Deer Mountain (Center), Terry Peak (R). Photo looks WSW.

On the Ides of March, for the first time in 9 years and a day, Lupe made the short, rocky scramble to the top of Dome Mountain (5,510 ft.).

Scrambling to the top. Photo looks SW.

1:54 PM, 54ºF – The top of the summit block was a region of rocks and low scratchy bushes 60 feet long and 20 feet wide.  Lupe had come up near the true summit at the E end.  A couple of dead trees bleached by the sun stood nearby.  The rest of the terrain, bordered by cliffs on all sides, sloped gradually down toward a cairn near the W end.

Much of the summit region from the cairn (L) near the W end. Photo looks E.

Many peaks the American Dingo had been to before were in sight.  The equally rocky summit of Pillar Peak (5,465 ft.), and much lower, heavily forested top of Crook Mountain (4,938 ft.) were NNE.  A vast expanse of the brown plains of western South Dakota were visible beyond them.

At Dome Mountain’s true summit. Crook Mountain (L), Pillar Peak (R). Photo looks NNE.

Bear Den Mountain (5,641 ft.) was visible again to the SE.  The territory Lupe had come from was due S.  WSW, the extra bit of elevation up here provided a noticeably better look at Deer Mountain (6,651 ft.).  Even Terry Peak (7,069 ft.) looked a bit grander.

Bear Den Mountain (R). Photo looks SE.
The region Lupe had come from. Photo looks SSW.
Deer Mountain (far L), Terry Peak (Center). Photo looks WSW.

Due N, Whitewood Peak (5,141 ft.) looked small and insignificant.  The flat summit of Mount Theodore Roosevelt (5,682 ft.) was visible NW.  Polo Peak (5,423 ft.) and Green Mountain (5,334 ft.) more to the NNW were so far away that they were harder to positively identify.

Eh, didn’t matter.  What really did matter today was much closer.  Only 1.25 miles NNW stood the Carolina Dog’s true objective, Peak 5452.

Mount Theodore Roosevelt (L), Polo Peak & Green Mountain (L of Center), Peak 5452 (R of Center), Whitewood Peak (far R). Photo looks NW.

SPHP found a spot to sit down near the cairn.  The ground was so rocky that Lupe couldn’t get comfortable, so she curled up on SPHP’s lap.

Peak 5452 doesn’t look that far away now, SPHP.

Yeah.  Going to be nice to finally get there, Loop.  It’s about the last of the Lists of John peaks with 300 feet of prominence in the Black Hills you haven’t been to yet that, despite our 2 prior failures, is at least somewhat accessible.  Once we’ve been there, we can concentrate on other things.

Like what, SPHP?

Oh, I don’t know, Looper.  Maybe we’ll revisit some of the coolest peaks we first went to long ago, like this one?  Or, we can go back to wandering like we used to before we got so into peakbagging.  There are still lots of places we’ve never been to that might be every bit as beautiful and interesting as many of the mountaintops.

As long as we don’t quit exploring the Black Hills, I’m fine with whatever, SPHP, on one condition.

Condition?  What condition, Loop?

You’ll still bring chocolate coconut bars, even if we don’t climb a mountain.

Deal!  Let’s shake on it.  By the way, congratulations on reaching the top of Dome Mountain again.  I suppose you’re ready for a chocolate coconut bar right now.  Just happen to have one in the pack.

After the paw shake and sharing of the ever-popular chocolate coconut bar, Lupe inhaled the last 2 Canine Carry-outs that Dave Covill had sent her for Christmas, munched on Taste of the Wild, and lapped a big drink of water from her silver bowl.  Meanwhile, SPHP peeled an orange and drank a strawberry Equate.

Dome Mountain was a cool place with it’s sweet views, remote feel, and unusual summit block for the Black Hills.  Unfortunately, it was already mid-afternoon.  Staying for Lupe’s full traditional summit hour didn’t make sense with Peak 5452 still on the agenda, despite how long it had been since the last time she’d been here.

Nevertheless, 40 minutes zoomed by before the American Dingo sprang into action at SPHP’s insistence.

We better get moving, Loop!  Not that far to Peak 5452, but the Two Bit Creek valley is pretty deep, and we’ve got to cross it to get over there.

After a brief return to Dome Mountain’s true summit, Lupe scrambled back down to the N ridge.  Two minor high points were strung out along it, neither one much more than a blip.  She paused at the last one for a look back, before starting the descent to Two Bit Creek in earnest.

Dome Mountain’s N ridge (foreground) from the true summit. Crook Mountain (Center), Pillar Peak (R). Photo looks NNE.
A glance back at the true summit (R) from the last high point along the N ridge. Photo looks S.

Continuing N, Lupe headed down a steepish slope densely covered with bushes hiding considerable deadfall within.  Although this first descent wasn’t all that long, it was a bit of an unexpected struggle to get down to a bush-and-deadfall-free saddle at the start of the live forest.

Exactly where to go from here wasn’t entirely clear.  In truth, SPHP hadn’t given it much thought.  Looked like most any route might work.  Lupe could leave the N ridge here, dropping down into valleys on either side, or keep going N through the forest on fairly level terrain before searching for a way down.

Probably doesn’t matter which way we go, Loopster, but it might be best to start losing some elevation right away.

So descend into one of these valleys, SPHP?  Which one?

They’ll meet before they reach Two Bit Creek, Loop, so either one, I guess.  Why don’t we go E?  Topo map seems to indicate the initial descent won’t be quite as steep.

Angling ENE, the initial descent was indeed easy enough, however, it went on longer than SPHP expected.  By the time Lupe reached a narrow V-shaped bottom with deadfall in it, there was snow on the ground.

Descending into the valley.
Down in the snowy V-shaped ravine. Photo looks SW.

Ick!  Not what I was hoping for, Looper.  It better not keep on like this very far.

Continuing NE down the ravine, Lupe kept coming to more deadfall.  Although the Carolina Dog generally managed quite nicely, the slippery snow made getting past the annoying deadfall problematic for SPHP.

Progress was made, but the slow descent chewed up precious daylight. Eventually, the valley began curving NW and broadening out.  Little or no snow was present here, and scenic cliffs were visible way up on the next ridge to the NE.  Unfortunately, dense stands of young aspens kept SPHP from picking up the pace too much, although this broader region was definitely better than the narrow ravine.

Scenic cliffs ahead as the valley widens out. Photo looks N.
Among the young aspens. Photo looks N.

Once beyond most of the aspens, the descent got easier for a while, but the valley soon narrowed to a V-shaped bottom again.  This time, minor vertical drops required a bit of caution.  As the Carolina Dog kept going, she began coming to pools of water, then a tiny stream.

By a pool of water in the lower valley. Photo looks SE.

Fortunately, Lupe always found ways past the vertical drops and pools.  At last, a narrow gap between rock walls led to another drop requiring caution.  Once below it, the valley opened up.

The American Dingo had made it to where the E and W valleys met.

At the point where the valleys met. Photo looks WSW.

4:14 PM – Looking N, farther down the now combined drainage of the two valleys, a small stream ran through a lumpy region full of snow, ice, and thickets of small trees and bushes.  Certainly not impassable, but not much of an improvement, either.  This disappointing view, and the low angle of the sun said it all.

I can’t believe it, Loop!  Another Peak 5452 fail!

Can’t we just cross Two Bit Creek and start climbing, SPHP?  We’re almost there!

Peak 5452 isn’t as close as you think, Loopster.  We haven’t even made it down to Two Bit Creek yet.  This stream is just a tributary.  Getting too late in the day to continue this ridiculous bushwhack.  We aren’t going to get back to the RAV4 until after dark, even if we turn back now, but we might be able to reach the road while there’s still some light.  If we keep going, we’ll have to fight our way back through this jungle at night.  Not worth it!

So, we’re just giving up on Peak 5452?  How far away can it be, SPHP?

0.67 mile as the crow flies, but we aren’t crows, Looper.  We’re just being sensible and giving up for today.  We’ll get to Peak 5452!  We’ll return for another attempt someday soon.  Promise!

And have to do this all over again, SPHP?

No, not this.  We’ll find another approach, a better one.  Think of it as merely another adventure, Loop!

I’m thinking of it as merely another chocolate coconut bar, SPHP.  One that I’d hoped to devour within the hour, not on some unknown future date.

Less than 0.2 mile from Two Bit Creek, reluctantly resigning herself to yet another Peak 5452 fail, the American Dingo started back.  Not the same way she’d gotten here, though.  This time she explored the valley that had come down from the W side of Dome Mountain.  This valley was wider and turned out to be generally easier going.

At first, the icy stream flowed along the base of vertical rock walls.  It might have been entirely possible to simply march up this valley all the way to the ridge S of Dome Mountain, then on to the Veteran’s driveway, but SPHP was tired of being confined in deep valleys.

As soon as we get past these rock walls to a manageable slope, let’s climb back up Dome Mountain, Loop.

Lupe was all for it.  She agreed, rather enthusiastically, too, especially when SPHP admitted to having another chocolate coconut bar in the pack that had been intended for Peak 5452, and promised to share it.

Beyond the rock walls, the slope was mighty steep where Lupe started up from the shady valley.  SPHP barely made it to a more doable incline.  When Lupe reached sunshine, she graciously allowed SPHP a rest break to gasp for air.  Taunting and tantalizing, Peak 5452 was back in sight less than 0.75 mile NNW.

Peak 5452 (L). Photo looks NNW.

The slope remained steep all the way up to a rocky high point visible above.  When Lupe got to it, a 10 or 15 foot scramble got her to the top.  Crook Mountain, Pillar Peak, and some of the cliffs she’d seen on her way down the E valley were among the views.

Approaching the minor rocky high point at the upper end of the slope. Photo looks SE.
At the high point. Crook Mountain (L), top of Pillar Peak (R). Photo looks NE.

Once past this minor rock formation, most of the rest of the way was an easy stroll through the forest.  Only the slope covered with bushes and hidden deadfall on the way up to the high point at the N end of Dome Mountain’s upper N ridge was difficult.  Ascending this slope was even more miserable than going down it had been, but Lupe made it.

High point at the end of the upper N ridge (L of Center), Dome Mountain’s summit block (R of Center). Photo looks S.
Back on the upper N ridge N high point (L), summit block (R). Photo looks S.

6:12 PM, 48ºF – The sun was still up when the Carolina Dog reached the true summit of Dome Mountain (5,510 ft.) for the second time today.  A somewhat chilly 10 mph breeze was blowing out of the WNW, but the gleam of the sharply slanting evening sunlight beautifully illuminated everything it touched.

Back at the true summit of Dome Mountain. Photo looks NNE.

As promised, SPHP split another chocolate coconut bar with Lupe after shaking her paw again.  She then dined on Taste of the Wild, duck jerky, and water, while SPHP munched an apple.

With miles to go and the sun sinking fast, 15 minutes was about all that could be spared before scrambling back down off the summit.  During the trek S through the open, level forest, Lupe had a grand time roaming at will.  Then it was back across the ridge full of decaying deadfall and minor rock formations.

Dusk was turning to night, the air crisp and calm, when Lupe reached the Veteran’s driveway again.  Silver stars twinkling above, this time she stuck with it all the way back to Gilt Edge Road.  At one point, red lights on the towers atop Terry Peak were seen blinking in the black distance.

No traffic.  Only silence.  What a day it had been!  For the first time in 9 years and a day, the Carolina Dog been on Dome Mountain, not once, but twice.  Yet the moment she’d stand on Peak 5452 had eluded Lupe once again, remaining in the always uncertain future.  (End, 8:16 PM, 42ºF)

Peak 5452 & Dome Mountain at day’s end, Black Hills of South Dakota, 3-15-24

Links:

Next Black Hills Expedition                Prior Black Hills Expedition

Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 122 – Bear Den Mountain, Anchor Hill, Dome Mountain & Pillar Peak (3-14-15)

Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 127 – Hat Mountain, Anchor Hill & Custer Peak (4-19-15)

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Mount Fairplay, Alaska (8-2-23)

Part 2 of Day 11 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

2:37 PM, Taylor Highway at the Mount Fairplay Wayside – Discouraging!  That’s what the first faint view of Mount Fairplay (5,541 ft.) dimly seen in the distance amid a sea of smoke had been, but the mountain was considerably closer now.

The smoke doesn’t look that bad from here, SPHP.  Let’s go for it!

Mount Fairplay (R of Center) from the Taylor Highway. Photo looks S.
Taylor Highway information posted at the Mount Fairplay Wayside.

Oh, we’re going to, Loopster!  The way this Dingo Vacation has been going, we’re climbing anything that’s even marginal, unless and until we can find clearer skies.  Besides, it’s been nearly 4 years since we’ve been up on Mount Fairplay, and I’m really looking forward to it.

3:40 PM, 69ºF, Taylor Highway, MP 32.8 – SPHP nearly had the backpack ready to go when a caribou suddenly emerged from the bushes on the opposite side of the road, and began trotting N.  Still relaxing on her pink blanket in the RAV4, Lupe didn’t see the caribou until SPHP pointed it out.  An immediate, enthusiastic barking fit ensued, spurring the caribou to pick up its pace before once again vanishing among the bushes.

Let me out, SPHP!  A caribou!

I know, it was awesome, Loop!  Trotted right past me.  Gone now, though, so forget it.  You know, if you’re interested in wildlife, maybe being a bit more subtle would help.  In any case, we’ve got a mountain to climb!

SPHP opened the door, and Lupe hopped out.

Mount Fairplay (L) from the pullout at milepost 32.8. Photo looks ESE.

I’ve never seen Mount Fairplay looking so green before, SPHP.  Usually it’s a mountain of gold!

That’s because we’ve never been here this early in the season before.  Another 2 or 3 weeks, and it won’t look like summer anymore.  A month, and the colors will be amazing.  Actually better then, Looper, but it is what it is, and we’re here now.  So, onward!  Puppy ho!

SPHP crossed the highway and started up into the bushes, but the American Dingo hung back near the RAV4.  In full sun and a fur coat on a warm day, suddenly Lupe wasn’t nearly as motivated as she’d been only moments ago when the caribou had been here.

You coming, Loopster?  Or are you suffering from PCDS?

PCDS?  What’s that, SPHP?

Post-Caribou Depression Syndrome.

Oh, I see.  Yes, I think I’ve got some PCDS, SPHP, but mainly I’m just kind of hot.

We’ll take it slow and easy, Looper, so you don’t get overheated.  As far as the PCDS goes, who knows?  We might see more caribou during the trek up Mount Fairplay.  That would be a surefire cure, wouldn’t it?

Somewhat encouraged, Lupe followed at a distance while playing her stalking game.  The Carolina Dog repeatedly sat in whatever shade she could find, semi-hidden among the bushes until SPHP was out of sight, before pursuing and catching up.

Setting out for Mount Fairplay (R of Center). Photo looks E.

Although it didn’t look like much, a mildly steep slope forming the first part of the ascent was actually the most difficult.  The bushes down near the highway were taller and thicker, and a band of alders above them presented even more challenges.  Lupe enjoyed the shade and had no problem slinking between them, but SPHP had to force a way through.

Enjoying the shade of the alders.

Fortunately, the alders weren’t that big yet, and didn’t extend too far up the slope.  SPHP managed to get past them, and progress improved as Lupe headed for the toe of a vast, gentler slope extending ESE toward a saddle on Mount Fairplay’s broad, gently rounded S ridge.

Above and beyond the alders looking back at the RAV4 (L of Center) down at the pullout along the Taylor Highway. Photo looks WNW.
On the lower end of the gentle slope leading to the saddle on the S ridge (Center). Mount Fairplay (L). Photo looks ESE.

The bushes were quite a bit smaller up on the long, gentle slope, which looked like an easy stroll.  However, prior experience had shown that the march higher wasn’t going to be as easy as it appeared.  The tundra was very thick and spongy, making each step much more of an effort than it should have been.  Walking on the giant slope was like taking a trek on an enormous marshmallow.  Furthermore, although Lupe had never run into mosquitoes on Mount Fairplay before, they were here in such numbers today that SPHP finally had to break out the Deet.

The most significant obstacle, though, grew in great abundance.  Wild blueberries were everywhere!  Juicy, but their tartness this early in the season helped SPHP avoid becoming ensnarled in the blueberry trap for too long, although SPHP wouldn’t have objected to such an outcome in the least, if they’d been a little sweeter.

Wild blueberries.

The long trudge higher went on with frequent short breaks, mostly due to the amount of effort required by the sponginess of the tundra.  This slope usually had some nice water holes Lupe could take advantage of on it, but they were nearly all dry today.  Didn’t really matter, since SPHP had brought plenty of water along.  Just another indication of how hot and dry this summer had been in the far N.

Lupe eventually gave up on her stalking game.  Hard to stay hidden on such an open slope!  As the American Dingo gained elevation, the sky above looked quite blue, but smoke marred the views in all directions, especially toward the W.

Glancing back down the long, gentle slope. Photo looks WNW.

The terrain eventually began to steepen.  Lupe came to firmer ground amid collections of rocks.  For a while, big cumulus clouds boiling up E of the mountain caused some concern.  SPHP kept an eye on them as Lupe continued higher.

On somewhat steeper, rockier terrain. Mount Fairplay (Center). Photo looks E.

Soon Mount Fairplay’s S ridge was directly ahead.  This was the steepest part of the climb.  Nothing to it, really.  With many lanes of tundra to chose from, Lupe easily avoided most of the rocks.

Approaching the S ridge (Center). Mount Fairplay (L). Photo looks ESE.
Starting the S ridge ascent. Photo looks E.
Mount Fairplay (Center) from partway up. Photo looks NE.
A smoky glance back at the Taylor Highway, dimly seen below, from the top of the steepest part of the climb. Photo looks WSW.

Once the rate of climb started to diminish, the American Dingo could have angled NE more directly toward Mount Fairplay.  Instead, Lupe stuck with tradition and kept climbing E onto the S ridge.  This region was all a mix of fairly rocky terrain and thinner, much firmer tundra, which made progress significantly easier than down below.

Mount Fairplay (Center) as seen from rockier terrain while still on the way up to the S ridge (R). Photo looks NE.

Upon reaching the crest of the ridge, Mount Fairplay’s summit was less than 0.33 mile N.  To the S, the broad ridge led to a rough rock formation Lupe had once explored after her 2018 ascent.  Unfortunately, with such a late start, that bit of fun wasn’t going to be in the cards again today.

Mount Fairplay (Center) from the S ridge. Photo looks N.
The dark, rugged rock formation (R of Center) Lupe had once explored. Photo looks S.

Of the slightly more than 2000 feet of elevation gain required to reach the top of Mount Fairplay, less than 300 feet remained.  Even though this final ascent was the rockiest part of the entire trek, it wasn’t difficult at all.  Faint use trails ran among the rocks, often following narrow lanes of tundra that existed even this far up the mountain.

For most of the climb, Lupe stayed toward the E edge of the slope.  Once near the top, she entered the summit region from the SW, her traditional approach which had always seemed easiest.

Starting the final ascent. Photo looks N.
Getting close to the top along the E edge. Photo looks N.
Approaching the towers of the summit region from along the W edge. Photo looks NNE.

6:54 PM, 66°F, Mount Fairplay (5,541 ft.) – Lupe stood atop a low wall of rock just N of the collection of towers and a metal shed near the S end of the rocky, but otherwise flat plain comprising the summit region.  A white wooden pole jutted up from her back.  This low wall, although not natural, had always seemed like the highest point despite a number of boulders near the E edge that were very close to the same elevation.

On the low rock wall about the highest point on Mount Fairplay. Photo looks NNW.

Great to be back on Mount Fairplay again, isn’t it, SPHP?

Sure is, Loopster!  Congratulations on your 4th ascent here!  Even though Mount Fairplay is just a big hill, I’ve always liked it ever since we first saw it way off in the distance back in 2017.  From this angle, though, it looks like you’ve been skewered on a stick.

I suppose so, SPHP.  What happened to the tower that used to be over by that pole?

Apparently someone removed it, Loop, but I have no idea why, or exactly what purpose it served in the first place.

After a glance at the smoky views to the SE, Lupe headed over to the white wooden pole.  About a foot in diameter and 9 feet tall, it was firmly cemented into the ground.

The smoky view to the SE from the same rock wall.
By the white, wooden pole. Photo looks NNE.

Any idea what this is for, SPHP?

Uh, no.  That’s even less clear than the reason the former tower was here, Loopster.  The tower probably had something to do with communications or the weather.

Stumped by the tall, skinny stump then, SPHP?

You might say that.  Have to admit that nothing that makes any sense comes to mind, Looper.  Shall we go see if the Mount Fairplay survey marker is still over near the N end of the summit region?

Sure enough, the survey marker, a directional one pointing toward a benchmark that SPHP had never been able to find, was still there.

Lupe standing next to the brass survey marker. Photo looks SSW.
The “Mt. Fairplay” directional marker.

Near the survey marker was a view of distant hills and ridges to the N, smoky like in all other directions.  The last time Lupe had been here in 2019, she’d gone down the mountain this way, a considerably longer route, but also leading to another fun exploration.  Suddenly that day seemed simultaneously like only yesterday and a very long time ago.

The self-conflicted thought produced a wave of melancholy that swept over SPHP.  Would have been nice to sit here along the N edge of the summit region pondering the view, but the air was dead calm.

The view to the N as Lupe stands directly over the survey marker. Photo looks NNE.

About time for a chocolate coconut bar, isn’t it, SPHP?

Yup!  But the bugs are kind of bad here.  Let’s go over to the W edge where there’s more of a breeze, Looper.  We’ll split one over there.

Midway along the W edge, a patch of tundra provided a soft spot where Lupe could lay down in comfort.  The chocolate coconut bar, the only food SPHP had brought along, turned out to be half melted.  After the sticky mess was consumed, Lupe eagerly licked soft chocolate off the empty wrapper as SPHP held it open for her.

The light breeze out of the W actually did help to some extent.  The bugs weren’t as bad here.  Sitting together, the long green slope the Carolina Dog had come up was in sight far below.  Once familiar hills and long ridges to the W were only dimly seen in the distance as if in a dream, and higher mountains that should have been visible far to the SW were completely hidden in the murk.

Overhead, the big cumulus clouds that had been building up during the ascent had shriveled away and sailed off to the E, no longer posing even a theoretical threat.  Once upon a time, a squirrel that had mysteriously found it’s way up here had eluded Lupe by scrambling to the top of a pole over by the towers at the S end of the summit region, but nothing stirred today.

As if sedated by chocolate, Lupe’s eyes grew heavy.  She put her head down and closed them.  SPHP wrapped the purple Columbia pullover around her so she could doze in comfort.

Napping along the W edge. Photo looks NNW.

For a long time, SPHP sat there staring off into the haze while cradling Lupe’s head, stroking her soft fur and ears, and occasionally kissing her sweet nose, all the while speaking quietly of prior grand adventures both here at Mount Fairplay and elsewhere.

Had coming here been a mistake?  The air quality seemed barely any better in Alaska than it had been back in the Yukon.  Didn’t matter, the die was cast.  The decision had been made.  Lupe’s search for clear blue, or at least smoke-free, skies would continue.  Whatever happened, being here on Mount Fairplay again was no mistake.  Quite the contrary!  This fleeting moment in time was both rare and precious.  Best to relax and simply enjoy being here together again for as long as possible.

SPHP remembered the golden tundra, explorations in various directions, and brilliant fall colors of prior visits.  On Lupe’s first night down along the Taylor Highway, an orange then yellow then white moon had come sneaking up over the S ridge in the middle of the night.  For the first time ever, Lupe had seen an impressive display of the ghostly green aurora borealis dance among the stars.

8:21 PM –  Gosh!  Guess I dozed off, SPHP.  What’s going on?

Oh, not too much, Loopster.  Just been sitting here enjoying what can be seen of the views.  You’ve had quite the snooze!

I had some of the most beautiful dreams, SPHP!  Mount Fairplay is sort of a magical place, isn’t it?

Couldn’t agree more, Looper!

That Dingo nap did me some good.  I’m feeling more energetic, SPHP.  How much longer until our traditional summit hour is over?

Almost half an hour ago, Loop.

Half an hour ago?  I must really have been zonked, SPHP.  Guess it’s time to go, isn’t it?

Afraid so, sweet puppy.  Before we depart, though, mind if we take a stroll around the perimeter of the summit region, just for a final look?

The Carolina Dog had no objections – wouldn’t take that long.  In fact, Lupe seemed to enjoy her clockwise summit tour along the W edge back to the N end, then past the boulders along the E edge, and back to the towers near the S end as much as SPHP did.

Mount Fairplay’s S ridge (L) from the NE edge. Photo looks SSW.
Near the towers at the S end of the summit region. Photo looks S.
On one of the highest boulders at the S end. Photo looks SSW.
A final glance back before beginning the descent. Photo looks N.

8:37 PM – Lupe stood on a boulder mottled black, gray, green, and white in becoming fashion by various types of lichens.  Beyond and below the American Dingo were the dark rock formation along Mount Fairplay’s S ridge, a vast open region of rolling hills, and the long green slope leading back to the highway.

Final moments in the summit region. Photo looks SSW.

Hate to say it, but I guess this is it for Mount Fairplay in 2023, Loopster.  No telling how long it might be before we’re back here again, if ever.  You ready to head down?

Mount Fairplay is awesome, and will always be a favorite place, but I am ready, SPHP.

Starting down. Photo looks S.

The descent was a joyful, easy romp made exciting by the discovery of another caribou that Lupe detected long before SPHP did.

Back down on the S ridge. Photo looks S.

Near the end of what suddenly seemed a perfect day despite the smoke, an American Dingo still roamed happy and free across the verdant lower slopes of Mount Fairplay as a yellow orange sun sank toward the wild blue gray hills on the WNW horizon.  (End 10:07 PM, 60ºF)

Mount Fairplay, Alaska 8-2-23

Links:

Next Adventure                        Prior Adventure

Lupe’s Scrollable GPS Track (ascent only)

Lost Chicken Hill & Mount Fairplay (8-19-19)

Mount Fairplay near Chicken, Alaska (8-25-18)

Mount Fairplay & Chicken, Alaska to the Top of the World Highway & Dawson City, Yukon Territory (9-2-17 & 9-3-17)

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