The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 327 – Pillar Peak, Peak 5452 & Dome Mountain (4-4-24)

8:02 AM, about ready to leave home –

Seriously, SPHP? We’re making yet another attempt on Peak 5452?

Yup! One more try, Looper.

Well, it better work this time, SPHP. These multiple fails are starting to be embarrassing.

Don’t worry, Loopster, you know what they say – fourth time’s a charm!

Third time! It’s supposed to be the third time that’s a charm, SPHP!

Eh, who’s counting?

I am, SPHP! Three fails already trying to get to Peak 5452! Doesn’t that mean anything to you?

Actually, it does, Loop. It means we’re going to start running out of new routes to even make an attempt, if we don’t succeed pretty soon. We’ll get there, though. Today!

9:13 AM, 62ºF, Camp 5 Trailhead – Such a beautiful morning! Already incredibly warm for an early spring day, too. Lupe leapt out of the RAV4 in fine spirits. A S wind was swaying the treetops, but there was scarcely a breeze at ground level.

We’re in for a long, but memorable day, Loopster! If we manage to tag Peak 5452, you’ll essentially be done with accessible Lists of John peaks with at least 300 feet of prominence in the Black Hills.

If you want my opinion, SPHP, the way things have been going, I’d say Peak 5452 is only semi-accessible, at best.

Confidence, Sweet Puppy! Onward! Puppy, ho!

Whether Peak 5452 was actually in the cards, or not, Lupe knew it was going to be a marvelous day for an adventure in the Black Hills. Leaving the Camp 5 trailhead, she headed S on Lost Gulch Road (USFS Road No. 172), eager to make the most of it.

Setting out from the **Camp 5 trailhead**. Photo looks NNE.

Quickly coming to and crossing the Boulder Creek drainage, a short climb led to a field where the road flattened out. A fork was ahead.

Heading for the **Boulder Creek drainage** on **Lost Gulch Road**. Photo looks SE.

At the fork. **Lost Gulch Road** on the R. Photo looks S.

Staying toward the R, Lupe stuck with Lost Gulch Road as it headed for the trees, then began climbing as it curved W up a valley. She soon came to another junction where Lost Gulch Road curved sharply S. USFS Road No. 172.1J, signed here as ATV Trail No. 8041, continued W.

Take No. 8041, Loop, but wait up a minute. I’m getting hot!

Climbing gradually into the forest on **Lost Gulch Road**. Photo looks SW.

Near the start of **ATV Trail No. 8041**. Photo looks W.

Lupe waited while SPHP removed a couple of layers, then kept going. No. 8041 promptly snaked up onto a ridge to the N, where it curved W again, following the ridge higher. Lupe soon caught sight of a familiar mountain off to the SW.

Pillar Peak (5,465 ft.)! I knew we’d been this way before. Are we going there first, SPHP?

Might as well, Loop. Pillar Peak is only 1.25 miles E of Peak 5452, and we’ll be going right by it.

**Pillar Peak** (L) from **ATV Trail No. 8041**. Photo looks SW.

No. 8041 continued steadily higher, gradually turning S. Lupe went at least another mile before the road topped out along Pillar Peak’s E flank. After a short descent into the upper end of a valley, No. 8041 curved SW toward a pass. Upon getting there, it was about time for a break.

Break time at the **pass SE of Pillar Peak**. Photo looks N.

A little Taste of the Wild and water was all Lupe needed. Continuing S over the pass, ATV Trail No. 8041 almost immediately ran into USFS Road No. 172.1H. Taking No. 172.1H a short distance W, Lupe abandoned the road to begin climbing NNW up a shallow, thinly forested valley.

Heading for **Pillar Peak’s SE slope**. Photo looks NNW.

The valley quickly led to a steeper slope. The American Dingo gained 300 feet of elevation from where she’d left No. 172.1H before the terrain began leveling out. With only scattered small trees in this region, a nice view of Bear Den Mountain (5,641 ft.) was back to the S.

**Bear Den Mountain** (L of Center) beyond **Lost Gulch**. Photo looks S.

Climbing at an easier pace now, a short relatively open stretch of low bushes and a bit of deadfall led to the crest of a small rise. As soon as Lupe got there, Pillar Peak’s rocky summit was dead ahead.

**Pillar Peak’s summit** (Center). Photo looks WNW.

11:26 AM, 71ºF, Pillar Peak (5,465 ft.) – Lupe stood on the true summit, a view of Terry Peak (7,069 ft.) and Deer Mountain (6,651 ft.) in the distance beyond her.

How’s this pose, SPHP? Good enough to earn me a chocolate coconut bar?

Absolutely, Loopster! Congratulations on your 5th ascent of Pillar Peak!

**Deer Mountain** (L of Center), **Terry Peak** (R of Center) on the horizon. Photo looks SW.

After shaking Lupe’s paw, SPHP produced the desired chocolate coconut bar, and split it with her. Just getting this far seemed like a pretty good romp. SPHP found some dry grass to sit on. Lupe curled up nearby.

After offering Lupe more Taste of the Wild, water, and a duck jerky, SPHP munched on an apple. Pillar Peak’s open summit featuring small rock outcroppings 3 or 4 feet high provided views in every direction.

Many peaks Lupe had been to were visible from here, although some were quite far off. Due to its isolated location on the prairie several miles beyond the Black Hills, Bear Butte (4,431 ft.) stood out. In nearly the opposite direction, Custer Peak (6,809 ft.) was high enough to be seen over the intervening hills.

**Bear Butte** (L of Center). Photo looks NE.

Cone-shaped **Custer Peak** (R of Center) on the horizon. Photo looks SSW.

In addition to Bear Den Mountain, Whitewood Peak (5,141 ft.) and Peak 5400 were among the more notable closer hills and ridges.

**Whitewood Peak** (R of Center). Photo looks NNW.

**Bear Den Mountain** (Center). Photo looks S.

You’re forgetting the most important one, SPHP!

I’m just saving it for last, Loopster.

And last, but certainly not least, the forested hill of primary interest not only today, but during 3 prior failed attempts, the elusive Peak 5452 sat in clear view only 1.25 miles due W.

**Terry Peak** (L), **Peak 5452** (Center) in the foreground. Photo looks W.

Less than 3 weeks ago the American Dingo had been even closer to Peak 5452 while on Dome Mountain (5,510 ft.), yet had run out of daylight to get there due to the difficulty of the intervening terrain. Hoping to avoid another failure, a certain sense of urgency existed about getting on with today’s attempt. Even so, Pillar Peak was such a grand viewpoint and old favorite, that Lupe stayed for her full traditional summit hour.

Once that final minute ticked away, though, it was Onward! Puppy, ho! Well, sort of. Even after leaving Pillar Peak’s summit, Lupe scrambled around a bit on nearby rock formations offering snazzy views.

**Terry Peak** (L) from some of the Pillar Peak rocks. Photo looks W.

A glance back at the **Pillar Peak summit block** (R of Center). Photo looks NNW.

Leaving Pillar Peak, Lupe began by setting off in the same direction she’d come up from, but quickly turned due S. The intent was to head straight for the saddle leading to Dome Mountain. A steepish, somewhat rocky descent got her down to it.

**Bear Den Mountain** (L). **Saddle leading to Dome Mountain** (Center). Photo looks S.

Entering the saddle region. **Bear Den Mountain** (L). Photo looks S.

So far, Lupe had been in familiar territory, however, that was about to change.

Alrighty, Looper! Time to head W young Dingo! Let’s see if we can do it.

Peak 5452 or bust, SPHP!

Peak 5452 was in sight straight ahead as Lupe roamed W down a grassy slope toward stands of young aspens and a few pines.

Heading for **Peak 5452** (Center). Photo looks W.

**Pillar Peak** (L) as seen shortly after starting down the valley. Photo looks NNE.

It soon became apparent that Lupe could easily avoid the worst of the young aspen thickets by staying toward the S, along the base of Dome Mountain. This route worked out well as the descent steepened. Even SPHP was making great progress.

S (L) of most of the aspens. **Peak 5452** (R of Center). Photo looks W.

Another look at **Pillar Peak** (L) after descending from the **saddle** (far R). Photo looks NE.

Winding along Dome Mountain’s lower N slope, Lupe passed some big rocks, eventually coming to a small stream.

Among boulders at the **base of Dome Mountain**. Photo looks WSW.

After getting a drink while crossing the stream, Lupe had to climb a little up into the pines in order to keep heading W. The terrain soon leveled out somewhat, allowing the Carolina Dog to simply maintain about the same elevation as she followed the contour of the mountain through a lumpy area. A few deer spotted running through the open forest along in here added a moment of excitement.

Before going much farther, glimpses of a deep valley appeared ahead. SPHP checked the map.

It’s another 400 feet down into the Two Bit Creek valley from here, Loop. We’ll likely cliff out if we try to keep going W.

Which way then, SPHP?

Go N, Loopster. We can lose some elevation on the way down to a saddle S of HP5032. If the slope isn’t too steep, maybe we can turn W again there?

On the way down to the saddle, Lupe passed a number of small mining exploration pits. Once there, a tall rock formation was visible atop a rise a bit farther N from a little clearing below it.

Is that rock tower HP5032, SPHP?

Might be, Loopster. It’s certainly in the right vicinity, although the real HP5032 might actually be a little farther N. Doesn’t really matter, though. We don’t need to go up there. Let’s have a look at the slope leading down into the Two Bit Creek valley.

The forested slope to the W was steep, but fairly open and uniform.

Looks good to me, SPHP. Can you manage it?

As long as it doesn’t get much steeper farther down, yeah, no problem!

The long, steady descent went well until frozen Two Bit Creek appeared below. A line of 20 foot tall cliffs bordered the creek on each side.

Oh, good grief! There’s got to be a break in the cliffs somewhere, Looper. Try going S. Looks the most promising over that way.

Going S worked. A short scramble down a less vertical spot got Lupe down to Two Bit Creek, which could be heard gurgling below a thick layer of ice.

On frozen **Two Bit Creek**. Photo looks N.

So far, so good! Now all the American Dingo had to do was find a way past the cliff on the W side of the stream. Trotting 50 feet farther S over the ice, Lupe found an easy way up just beyond a bend. Climbing W, she soon came to a view of Peak 5452’s lower E slope directly ahead.

An easy route out of the valley was just around this next bend. Photo looks SSE.

From Two Bit Creek, Peak 5452’s summit was more than 800 feet higher. The steepest part of the climb came in middle on an open slope sporting a few rock outcroppings. It was windy up here, but Lupe gained views of Pillar Peak and Dome Mountain as she kept climbing.

Steepest part of the climb. Photo looks NW.

**Pillar Peak** (Center) from partway up Peak 5452. Photo looks E.

The forest above was more open than expected when SPHP managed to reach it, yet provided a surprising amount of protection from the wind. The rate of climb diminished as Lupe headed for the S end of Peak 5452’s summit region. When she got there, views were limited to heavily tree-broken glimpses.

**S end of the summit region**. Photo looks SW.

Turning N, an easy stroll higher soon led to a small clearing in the pines.

3:27 PM, 63ºF, Peak 5452 – The wind was 20 mph out of the S up in the pines, but only a light breeze at ground level. 20 feet W, the forest had been thinned, yet not enough to provide any decent views.

So, this is it, SPHP? Peak 5452’s true summit?

Yup! Such as it is, we’re finally here, Loopster. Can you believe it?

I can’t tell you how happy I am to be here after all these attempts, SPHP. You better have another chocolate coconut bar in the pack!

I’m glad, too, Loop! And yes, I made sure I brought a chocolate coconut bar for the occasion. We’ve surely earned this one!

SPHP shook Lupe’s paw, congratulating the Carolina Dog with much praise for all her valiant attempts to reach Peak 5452, finally brought to a successful conclusion, then produced the highly anticipated chocolate coconut bar. Water, 2 duck jerkies, and Taste of the Wild completed Lupe’s repast, while SPHP drank a strawberry Equate.

Anyone else would have left almost immediately. Peak 5452’s summit had little to commend it. No views, just a perfectly ordinary, dull, flat spot in the forest. Yet there was no sense of disappointment at all. Lupe had seen Peak 5452 from a distance so many times that both she and SPHP had known what to expect.

Seemed like it had been a long trek to get here. Felt good to sit on the pine needles together simply listening to the wind moan in the pines.

Since Lupe wasn’t likely to ever visit this out of the way peak again, she remained for her full traditional summit hour, enjoying this long-sought experience as much as possible. At one point she wandered a bit farther N with SPHP to make certain there was no higher spot on the mountain. There wasn’t.

Returning to the clearing, Lupe laid down on the pine needles, making herself comfortable. As treetops swayed in the wind, SPHP spoke calmly of the American Dingo’s 3 prior attempts to get here, reflecting on each one while stroking her soft ears. Her Peak 5452 adventures were nearly history now, soon to be events of the past rather than something to strive for and look forward to.

Relaxing on the pine needles. Photo looks WNW.

So, Peak 5452 is the last of the Lists of John peaks in the Black Hills with at least 300 feet of prominence that we’ll be visiting, SPHP?

More or less, Loop. No doubt we’ll return to some we’ve been to before, and might visit one or two more new ones, but I don’t think there are any more you haven’t been to that are both accessible and would involve an adventure like this. Kind of the end of an era for us. Lists of John gave us a reason to visit quite a few peaks we’d never considered before.

4:27 PM – Speaking of adventures, Lupe’s summit hour was up.

Ready to roll, Loopster?

I suppose, SPHP.

Good. I’d been thinking we might hit Peak 5400 on the way back, but it’s too late for that. However, we might be able to get to Dome Mountain (5,510 ft.). Want to pay it one last visit?

Do you really think we can get there before dark, SPHP?

Yes, but not the way we tried last time, Looper.

Despite having just been there twice less than 3 weeks ago, Lupe was willing to visit Dome Mountain again. Going farther S before turning E during her Peak 5452 descent, she followed a very windy edge where Dome Mountain was in view.

**Dome Mountain** (Center) from Peak 5452. Photo looks SSE.

Another angle. **Dome Mountain** (L of Center). Photo looks S.

After crossing Two Bit Creek at the same place as before, Lupe made the steep climb back up to the saddle S of HP5032.

Back on the E side of **Two Bit Creek**. Photo looks SW.

So, how do we get to Dome Mountain’s summit from here, SPHP?

SPHP needed a moment to gasp for air before replying.

Turn S, back the way we came again, Looper, but this time just keep going. Don’t turn E.

Another substantial climb through the forest had SPHP dragging by the time the terrain began leveling out again. Turning SE along a broad, flat ridge, Lupe had a blast exploring this easy ground, still displaying great energy. Even SPHP was soon able to pick up the pace again.

Climbing gradually as the flattest ground led S again, Lupe discovered a snow bank. The snow was only a few inches deep, but covered quite a bit of territory. Feeling frisky, the American Dingo delighted in rolling around on it, paws thrashing, while chomping mouthfuls of the delicious wet snow. Once beyond the snow, she began circling around to the W.

6:55 PM, 57ºF, Dome Mountain (5,510 ft.) – Lupe made the short, rocky scramble to the summit, arriving just in time to enjoy the alpenglow. Once again, SPHP shook the Carolina Dog’s paw, congratulating her on her unexpected return to this remote peak.

Back at **Dome Mountain’s true summit**. **Pillar Peak** (Center). Photo looks NE.

Unfortunately, the chocolate coconut bar supply was completely wiped out. Taste of the Wild and water were a poor substitute, but that was it for remaining supplies. When the Taste of the Wild was gone, too, Lupe curled up on SPHP’s lap to watch the sunset.

Not as windy here as over at Peak 5452, now more than a mile NW. As the sun sank toward the horizon, the breeze weakened further. Felt kind of funny being here again so soon, but also like the right decision.

For 20 minutes, Lupe and SPHP enjoyed being on Dome Mountain.

7:15 PM – Still a long way back to the RAV4, Loopster.

Aww, the sun isn’t even down yet, SPHP. Sunset might be awesome!

I know, Loop, but it would sure be nice to at least make it back to a road before it gets dark.

A last look around, and Lupe was on her way.

A final glance at **Peak 5452** (L of Center). Photo looks NW.

Sunset from **Dome Mountain**. **Terry Peak** (L of Center).

Leaving **Dome Mountain**. Photo looks SW.

As dusk deepened, SPHP overshot the region where Lupe should have turned N toward the ridge that would have gotten her back to the saddle S of Pillar Peak. Due to this unforced error, the American Dingo wound up exploring a valley that took her NE.

If it hadn’t been for a faint, long abandoned road, the entire valley would have been a miserable bushwhack. As it was, only the last part after the ancient road completely faded away was like that. A pitch black descent while thrashing through a dense tangle of bushes and trees ensued, alleviated only by the weak beam of the small flashlight.

In the end, Lupe eventually popped out on USFS Road No. 172.1H, 0.5 mile S of where she’d left it many hours ago. The Carolina Dog’s Peak 5452 adventures were all but over now, only a long road hike, nearly all of it downhill beneath the silent stars, remained. (End 9:39 PM, 51ºF)

On **Peak 5452**, Black Hills of South Dakota 4-4-24

Links:

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Mastodon Dome, Alaska (8-4-23)

Days 12 & 13 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

8-3-23, 8:31 PM, Eagle Summit Wayside – After writing for nearly 2.5 hours, SPHP put the pen down.

Trip journal’s caught up, Loopster. Want to take a sniff up to the first hill along the Pinnell Mountain National Recreation Trail for a look at tomorrow’s objective?

Having been stuck in the RAV4 practically all day during the long drive from Mount Fairplay to Fairbanks, then E along the Steese Highway, the American Dingo responded enthusiastically.

Thought you’d never ask, SPHP!

About to set off for the **first hill** (Center) along the **Pinnell Mountain National Recreation Trail**. Photo looks WSW.

Didn’t take Lupe long to get up the first hill. The view toward the NW was the most interesting and encouraging.

There’s Porcupine Dome (4,915 ft.), SPHP! Remember being up there last year, and the spectacular sunset from Pinnell Mountain (4,934 ft.) that evening?

Sure do, Loop! You should have gotten to climb Porcupine Dome a second time the next day, if that frigid fog and rain hadn’t move in overnight while we snoozed in your tiny house.

Don’t remind me! That was a miserable trek back, SPHP. I got soaked in that cold mist.

**Pinnell Mountain** (L), **Peak 4350** (L of Center), **Porcupine Dome** (R of Center). Photo looks NW.

Despite this evening’s clouds, getting soaked seemed to be the least of Lupe’s worries this year. The far N was in a severe drought. Scarcely a drop of rain anywhere! Wildfire smoke first encountered in British Columbia had driven Lupe out of the Yukon only yesterday, and today’s drive in Alaska had been through smoke for hundreds of miles.

This afternoon, the smoke had been especially bad near the Tanana River on the way to Fairbanks. Only once well E of Fairbanks along the Steese Highway had there been any relief. Happily, for the first time in many days, the air had been perfectly clear at Twelvemile Wayside. The clean air toward Porcupine Dome was truly a beautiful sight.

However, there still hadn’t been a drop of rain, and smoke wasn’t all that far away. Even now, looking SE toward Mastodon Dome (4,418 ft.), a certain amount of haze was present.

Hope the smoke isn’t any worse tomorrow, SPHP.

Me too, Looper. Good chance it will be, though. The W wind’s supposed to push the smoke this way. Nothing we can do about it, except wait and see. Want to go a little farther?

It’s a beautiful evening, SPHP. Let’s do it!

Taking the short spur trail back down to the main one, Lupe then went as far as the next big, barren hill to the NW. This gently rounded hill was almost featureless other than a small rocky ridge just W of the trail. The Carolina Dog scrambled up for a look around before turning back.

**Peak 4350** (Center), **Porcupine Dome** (R). Photo looks NW.

The sun still hadn’t set, so Lupe returned briefly to the first hill on the way back to the Eagle Summit Wayside. The RAV4 was visible as a tiny blue dot down at the parking lot. A big plateau was on the opposite side of the Steese Highway. That was Eagle Summit (4,000 ft.), first objective along her journey to Mastodon Dome tomorrow, smoke permitting.

Back on the first hill shortly before sunset. **Pinnell Mountain** (L), **Peak 4350** (L of Center), **Porcupine Dome** (R of Center). Photo looks NW.

**Eagle Summit Wayside** (L of Center), **Eagle Summit** (R). Photo looks ENE.

8-4-23, 6:34 AM, Eagle Summit Wayside – Incredible! A darkly overcast sky, especially to the S & W, and mist on the windshield. Lupe left the RAV4 to sniff the air, SPHP following.

Sheesh! Looks like rain! Last thing I was expecting, Loop. I was afraid the air would be thick with smoke again this morning.

This is great news, SPHP! Let’s hope for a monsoon to put the fires out.

One extreme to the next, aye, Loopster? No, you’re right, rain would be a real blessing. Can use all we can get at the moment.

As if on command, a light rain commenced. Lupe leapt back into the RAV4.

Mastodon Dome will have to wait, SPHP. I’m going back to sleep.

I’ll meet you in Dingo Dreamland, Looper.

8-4-23, 8:26 AM, 55ºF, Eagle Summit Wayside – A big patch of blue sky was over by Porcupine Dome. Still overcast and gray elsewhere, but not as darkly as before. Sadly, the rain hadn’t amounted to much.

Mastodon Dome time, SPHP!

So it is, Sweet Puppy! Let me finish getting the pack ready, and we’ll be off.

**Eagle Summit** (L) and **Mastodon Dome** (far R) from the **Eagle Summit Wayside**. Photo looks SSE.

Near the end of the short hike down to the Steese Highway from the Eagle Summit Wayside, an odd white metal shed sat off to the L. Very sturdy, it appeared to be some sort of refrigeration or cold storage unit. Curious, SPHP turned the handle and looked inside.

What’s in there, SPHP?

Only a few scraps of lumber, and graffiti on the walls, Loopster.

That’s it? Nothing worthwhile?

Actually, there is, Loop. The graffiti includes a poem called “Windy Trail”.

Let’s hear it, SPHP.

Windy Trail

Scat scattered on a windy trail.

A yellow flower from a rainy vale.

The alpine ridge proves life frail.

Summits seem to sing and wail.

Windy voices telling a tale?

Or nature’s reminder it will prevail.

Life back home tends to pale,

Every time I’m on this windy trail.

Friday, August 13, 1993 – GSM

So, what do you think of it, Loopster?

Not exactly The Raven by Edgar Allen Poe, but I like it, SPHP.

Me, too! Certainly better than I could do. Just think – another 9 days and “Windy Trails” will be 30 years old! Lots of people must have seen it by now. Well, being way out here in rural Alaska, at least a few.

Post it to my blog and GSM will become famous, SPHP!

Hah! Maybe. A lot of good it will do GSM, anyway. Probably dead by now.

The fate of many an author, SPHP. After creating a masterpiece, it’s death first, fame later.

I know the feeling, Looper.

Regardless of the merits or faults of “Windy Trail”, it was time to move on. Reaching the Steese Highway, Lupe followed it a short distance NE to where a muddy lane left the highway at the base of Eagle Summit’s NW slope. Crossing the ditch along this lane, the American Dingo started up.

On the **Steese Highway** shortly before leaving it at the white posts ahead on the R. Photo looks NE.

Ascending **Eagle Summit’s NW slope**. Photo looks SE.

8-4-23, 9:09 AM, Eagle Summit (4,000 ft.) – Gaining 300 feet of elevation during a steady, relatively steep climb up the featureless tundra-covered slope, Lupe reached the edge of a vast summit plain. A loose cairn sat only a little S of where she’d come up. Investigation revealed nothing of interest other than the view NW back toward the Eagle Summit Wayside, with Peak 4350 and Porcupine Dome (4,915 ft.) beyond.

Blue sky was spreading quite rapidly in that direction, although it was still cloudy everywhere else. Despite the early morning rain showers, a layer of smoke was visible draped over the mountains, brought in by a 10 mph breeze out of the W.

**Hill Lupe visited yesterday evening** (L), **Peak 4350** (Center), **Porcupine Dome** (R). **Eagle Summit Wayside** (L of Center). Photo looks NW.

The plain wasn’t completely flat. The highest ground on Eagle Summit was clearly toward the E, so Lupe ventured over that way. She found nothing at all here, except a view of a series of barren, blue gray hills and ridges softened by haze.

Heading toward the highest ground on **Eagle Summit**. Photo looks ESE.

The view from **Eagle Summit’s true summit**. Photo looks ESE.

Not a tree or bush on any of those hills, SPHP. It all looks so vast and empty, like we could keep going forever!

Many of the valleys are forested, Loop, but we’re above treeline. Mastodon Dome has been on your list of possibilities for several years now. I used to wonder how hard it would be to wander through the forest for miles to get to it. Then, when we finally came here last year and visited Porcupine Dome and Pinnell Mountain, I realized there was nothing to this. We start out already in the alpine, and enjoy sweeping views every step of the way!

Makes for an easy, scenic romp, SPHP! Plus, it ought to be a cinch to spot any mastodons that come sauntering along our route.

Indubitably! I’m really looking forward to seeing an enormous herd of mastodons. Hope we don’t run into any saber-tooth tigers, though!

Don’t sweat it, SPHP. You’re traveling with a saber-toothed Dingo!

Not sure those little canines qualify as saber teeth, Looper.

Oh, really? Here, let me bite you, SPHP. Then tell me what you think.

Uh, no. Kind of you to offer, but I’ll pass. However, you are now officially in charge of dispensing with any saber-tooth tigers we run into.

Mastodon Dome was already in sight, still more than 4 miles SSE as the crow flies. Without further ado, Lupe trotted S, sniffing and roaming as she pleased across the Eagle Summit plain.

Near the S end of this vast plateau, the American Dingo came across an old jeep trail, apparently a continuation of the muddy track where Lupe had left the Steese Highway. The jeep trail headed SE down to the first of 3 broad saddles she would cross on the way to Mastodon Dome. During this first descent, nearly all of the elevation gained while climbing Eagle Summit was lost again.

Near the **S end of Eagle Summit**. **Mastodon Dome** (R of Center). Photo looks SSE.

A glimpse of the **first big saddle** (L of Center) ahead. Photo looks SE.

Checking for mastodons and saber tooth tigers. *None yet!* **Mastodon Dome** (R). Photo looks SE.

On the old jeep trail, heading down to the first saddle. Photo looks SE.

Steepest part of the descent. Photo looks ESE.

Crossing the big saddle, part of the jeep trail was muddy again, with ruts full of standing water. Abandoning the road, SPHP avoided the goopiest stretches, simply venturing over the tundra. Fortunately, no large boggy regions were encountered, although things might have been different if this hadn’t been such a hot, dry summer.

Looking back at the **SE end of Eagle Summit** (Center & R) after crossing the saddle. Photo looks NW.

Once across this first saddle. the jeep trail began climbing the next big ridge. The rate of climb was pretty easy, and got even easier once Lupe regained some of her lost elevation. The terrain nearly leveled out for a while. More muddy stretches appeared along the road, although most of it was fine.

Heading up the next huge ridge. Photo looks SSE.

The road eventually curved SW. Beyond a flat section, it climbed to a more elevated portion of the plateau. Once on top, the jeep trail then turned S, by-passing HP4110. Not wanting to miss the highest spot along this part of the journey, Lupe left the road to pay HP4110 a brief visit.

There had been occasional glimpses of another, more pointed peak E of Mastodon Dome. From HP4110, Lupe had a better view of it. From this distance, it remained hard to tell which was higher, the pointy peak or Mastodon Dome?

Approaching a more elevated portion of the plateau. **HP4110** (far R). Photo looks SW.

**Peak 4222** (L), **Mastodon Dome** (R) from **HP4110**. Photo looks SSE.

Returning to the jeep trail, Lupe followed it during a gradual descent to the next saddle. This second saddle was much shallower than the first one, so elevation loss wasn’t all that significant. Wet spots continued to provide the only obstacles, still forcing occasional off-road forays. Lupe enjoyed getting drinks from various water holes, but most of the time she made rapid progress on firm, dry ground.

The old jeep trail began fading away, except in the damp regions, even before Lupe reached the second saddle. With an enormous amount of room to roam in, and the general route to Mastodon Dome completely obvious, losing the road now and then really didn’t matter at all.

Heading toward the second saddle as the jeep trail begins to fade. **Peak 4222** (Center), **Mastodon Dome** (R). Photo looks SE.

Near a puddle after descending into the **2nd saddle**. **HP4110** (far R). Photo looks NW.

The route turned SE crossing the second saddle, then began curving back to the S as Lupe started up again at the far end. A stream ran down the jeep trail here, once more making its route completely obvious. After a short climb, the ridge flattened out. Mastodons continued to be scarce. The only wildlife was a small bird that kept running across the plain ahead of Lupe.

What kind of a bird is that, SPHP? It doesn’t even like to fly!

Don’t really know, Loop. Haven’t seen any like it in Alaska before. If I had to guess, maybe it’s some kind of plover?

With the help of the telephoto lens, SPHP made several attempts to get a decent photo, but all the images turned out fuzzy.

Following a stream on the road while climbing out of the 2nd saddle. Photo looks SSE.

A plover of some sort? SPHP didn’t know.

Although not specifically marked as such on the topo map, a second HP4110 was situated near the S end of this next flat stretch. Lupe was getting close to it, when she came across a metal rod sticking 4 or 5 feet out of the ground. A foot long block of wood was attached to the top.

By the **odd marker** on the way to the **S HP4110** (far R). **Peak 4222** (L), **Mastodon Dome** (R). Photo looks SSE.

What’s this for, SPHP?

SPHP examined the block of wood. Any paint had peeled away ages ago.

Dunno, Looper. Clearly a marker of some sort. Maybe it had something to do with the old road?

So glad I bring you along on these magnificent adventures, SPHP. You’re a veritable encyclopedia of information, aren’t you?

From the S HP4110, the third and final saddle leading to Mastodon Dome was visible ahead. While this was a steeper, more substantial drop like the first saddle had been, the entire route going the rest of the way clear up to Mastodon Dome’s summit looked like cake.

**Peak 4222** (L) & **Mastodon Dome** (R) from the **S HP4110**. Photo looks SSE.

A little steep near the end, but appears we’ve got it made, Loopster! Before long, we’ll be way up on Mastodon Dome!

Incredibly disappointing, SPHP!

What! Why?

All this way and not a single mastodon anywhere, SPHP! One bird, what’s that? I’d hoped to see huge herds of ancient, shaggy mammoths stomping across these stupendous ridges, devouring everything in sight!

Looks like they’ve pretty much been here and done that, Loop. Not much left to eat on these ridges, especially if you’re as big as a mastodon.

We haven’t even seen a single discarded ivory tusk, SPHP. At least that would have been something!

Have to agree with you there, Loop. A tusk would be a real find! Even one fresh mammoth tusk might be worth a fortune on the black market.

Oh, right! Like we could actually cash in. Doubt you could find your way to a black market at midnight, SPHP.

Suppose you’re right, Loopster, but how are you supposed to find them, if they’re so dark? Anyway, let’s keep going. Might still be some mammoths on Mastodon Dome. We aren’t there yet.

Heading down to the third & final saddle. **Mastodon Dome** (Center). Photo looks S.

Near the final saddle’s low point, Lupe made an unexpected discovery. A heap of rusty metal trash, several pieces of which were quite large and heavy, sat over toward the W edge. Some of the debris appeared to have melted in a fire and resolidified.

By the metal junk heap. Photo looks WSW.

Suppose there’s no point in asking you what this once was, is there, SPHP?

Uh, no. All I can tell you, Loop, is that it doesn’t belong here. On the way back, I’ll pack out as much as I can for proper disposal.

You’ll hardly make a dent in it, SPHP.

I know, but every little bit helps.

The biggest climb of the entire journey was now directly ahead. From the bottom of the third saddle, the top of Mastodon Dome loomed more than 500 feet above, really not all that much for a peakbagging Dingo. Full of confidence, Lupe started up the final tundra-covered slope.

Starting up. **Mastodon Dome** (Center). Photo looks S.

Halfway up, suddenly there was some excitement! Spotting movement, Lupe dashed away. No, not mastodons – caribou! Having noticed Lupe and SPHP’s approach, 3 caribou were running S along Mastodon Dome’s NE slope. They vanished over a ridge long before the American Dingo got anywhere near them. Lupe came racing back.

C’mon, SPHP! Caribou!

I know, I saw them, Loopster. I’m coming!

When SPHP finally managed to reach the point where the caribou had vanished, Lupe began whining in frustration.

There they are, SPHP!

Sure enough. The caribou were already way over on Mastodon Dome’s S ridge, now mere dots in the distance. Moments later, they vanished over that ridge, too.

Seeing the caribou breathed new spirit into Lupe. Greatly excited, with renewed confidence in the possibilities Mastodon Dome might have in store, the Carolina Dog sniffed her way higher.

In the vicinity where the caribou were when Lupe first spotted them. **Mastodon Dome** (Center). Photo looks S.

The climb steepened and got a little rockier. Vestiges of the old jeep trail reappeared for the first time in a while. Apparently it had once gone clear to the top.

Approaching the steepest part of **Mastodon Dome’s N slope**. Photo looks S.

Enough to make SPHP huff and puff, but Mastodon Dome’s N slope never even got close to steep enough to cause the least bit of concern. Near the top, the rate of climb diminished. Lupe’s long journey ended with an easy romp to the summit.

Heading for success on the **upper N slope**. Photo looks S.

8-4-23, 12:43 PM, 55ºF, Mastodon Dome (4,418 ft.) – A few rocks greeted Lupe at the N end of a small plateau that broadened out and tilted down to the S. Beyond a wooden cross laying flat on the ground, a cairn sat a short distance away at the approximate true summit. Proceeding to the cairn, 8 feet SE of it, she found the “Masto” survey benchmark attached to a flat rock.

**N end of the summit region**. **Wooden cross** (Center), **summit cairn** (R of Center). Photo looks SSW.

By the **summit cairn**. **HP4280** (Center) in the foreground out along **Mastodon Dome’s W ridge**. Photo looks WSW.

And that was about it. No mastodons, no saber tooth tigers, no caribou, not even any small birds anywhere in sight. If they had been there, the American Dingo certainly would have seen them. The day had become mostly sunny in all directions, views marred only by the smoky haze driven this way on a 15-20 mph W wind.

Greater atmospheric clarity would have been nice, but the smoke wasn’t terrible. Views were much as expected, similar to those seen during the long trek to get here. Barren hills and ridges stretched away toward all horizons. Despite the emptiness, or perhaps because of it, SPHP found it easy to imagine mastodons plodding over this vast, undulating world, their long fur swept by the wind amid flying snow.

Wonder how long it’s been since the last time a mastodon was actually here, Loop?

Quite a while, SPHP. Months, or even longer. I can’t detect any mastodon scent at all.

That’s sad! At least we saw some caribou, and managed to get here. In any case, congratulations on your successful ascent of Mastodon Dome, Loopster. Maybe a chocolate coconut bar will help us get over our dearth of mastodons disappointment?

Worth a shot, SPHP. Bring on that chocolately coconut goodness!

SPHP shook Lupe’s paw, then a comfy patch of tundra 20 or 30 feet SW of the cairn was chosen for the chocolate coconut bar’s demise. Beef jerky, Taste of the Wild, and water rounded out the Carolina Dog’s feast, while SPHP also partook of the beef jerky, then had a vanilla pudding cup and honey-roasted peanuts, too.

Facing W directly into the wind, it felt a bit chilly. SPHP threw a light jacket over Lupe, which she seemed to appreciate, but she didn’t snooze much, staying bright-eyed and alert most of the time while sniffing the breeze. At one point, she leapt to her paws and ran 50 feet SW before stopping to stare off into the distance.

Apparently satisfied, Lupe returned and laid down on the tundra again, giving no indication of what had piqued her interest.

The break spot overlooked HP4280, a rounded hill about a mile away along Mastodon Dome’s W ridge. It was a pleasant scene, and exploring over that way would have been easy. However, it was a long way back to Eagle Summit, and the additional distance seemed unnecessary. Lupe could already see what was over there from here.

**HP4280** (L of Center) from the break spot. Photo looks W.

Another grand view was in the opposite direction. From the E edge of the summit region, Peak 4222 was in sight. Its W high point was also only about a mile away. Getting over there would have been possible, but required substantially more effort due to the amount of elevation loss necessary to cross the deep saddle leading to it.

To the NNE, there was a view of the Mastodon Creek valley.

**Mastodon Creek valley** (L). Photo looks NE.

Exploring the summit region’s S end, the ground was lower. Minor rock outcroppings tilted skyward here, and Mastodon Dome’s massive S ridge stretched away toward another a series of distant hills, some of which weren’t much lower.

Along the **SE edge of the summit region**. Photo looks NNW.

The best view of all was to the NW, where big clouds were building over Porcupine Dome (4,915 ft.) and Pinnell Mountain (4,934 ft.). It was fun to remember Lupe’s explorations over that way along the Pinnell Mountain National Recreation Trail less than a year ago.

**Pinnell Mountain** (R of Center), **Porcupine Dome** (R). Photo looks NW.

8-4-23, 1:59 PM, Mastodon Dome – As always, the time passed quickly. More than an hour an fifteen minutes after arriving, Lupe stood near the summit cairn for the final time, the W wind and a clearer blue sky at her back. Beyond her, the backpack still marked the spot where she’d spent most of her time up here relaxing. A few more minutes, and it would be Onward! Puppy, ho!

**“Masto” benchmark** (L), **Peak 4280** (R of Center), **summit cairn** (R). Photo looks WSW.

Sorry that we’d didn’t get to see any mastodons, Loopster.

Me, too, SPHP! Sadly, I don’t think we will on the way back, either. I didn’t even sniff out a single mastodon pie on the way here. You’d think they’d be easy to find, and all over the place.

True enough, Loop. I’d have probably stepped in one, if there’d been any.

About to head back. **Eagle Summit** (L) in the distance. Photo looks N.

The return was a blast! Unexpected excitement awaited back down at the very first saddle Lupe came to. Caribou! A whole herd of them with giant antlers were here now.

With a little more help from the telephoto lens.

When the caribou moved away, SPHP remembered to fill the backpack with as much of the metal debris from the junk pile as possible. 98% of it is still there for Mastodon Dome’s next visitor to claim.

For miles, Lupe roamed far, wide, and free, no longer sticking to the old jeep trail route. She saw a couple more of the small birds that liked to run rather than fly. A third of the way back, SPHP caught a glimpse of an animal slinking across the tundra at high speed. Possibly a marmot, but Lupe hadn’t seen any others, nor heard any whistles. Might have been a badger or a wolverine!

SPHP also found another one of the metal rods with a 4×4 block of wood on top just laying on the ground, and carted it back, too.

Lupe returned to HP4110 – both of them! From the N one, she enjoyed a view of Eagle Summit (4,000 ft.). Pinnell Mountain, Porcupine Dome, and Peak 4350 were all in sight, too.

**Eagle Summit** (Center), **Pinnell Mountain** (far L), **Peak 4350** (L), & **Porcupine Dome** (L of Center). Photo looks NW.

A final look back. **Peak 4222** (L), **Mastodon Dome** (Center), **HP4280** (R). Photo looks S.

Approaching Eagle Summit, a dark cloud threatened rain, but not a drop fell before it sailed off to the E.

8-4-23, 5:51 PM – Mastodon Dome had been a great day! As Lupe turned off the Steese Highway and began trotting up the Eagle Summit Wayside access road, she was looking forward to a tasty dinner in the RAV4 while relaxing on her pink blanket.

Hang on, Loop! I’ve got one more thing to do.

Be quick about it, SPHP, whatever it is!

Leaving the road, SPHP went over to the white metal shed, disappearing inside before reappearing a moment later.

Quick enough for you, Loopster?

Surprisingly, yes, for once! What did you do in there, SPHP?

Not much, Loop. Just needed to take one more picture.

(End, 8-4-23, 5:54 PM)