Days 12 & 13 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!
8-3-23, 8:31 PM, Eagle Summit Wayside – After writing for nearly 2.5 hours, SPHP put the pen down.
Trip journal’s caught up, Loopster. Want to take a sniff up to the first hill along the Pinnell Mountain National Recreation Trail for a look at tomorrow’s objective?
Having been stuck in the RAV4 practically all day during the long drive from Mount Fairplay to Fairbanks, then E along the Steese Highway, the American Dingo responded enthusiastically.
Thought you’d never ask, SPHP!
Didn’t take Lupe long to get up the first hill. The view toward the NW was the most interesting and encouraging.
There’s Porcupine Dome (4,915 ft.), SPHP! Remember being up there last year, and the spectacular sunset from Pinnell Mountain (4,934 ft.) that evening?
Sure do, Loop! You should have gotten to climb Porcupine Dome a second time the next day, if that frigid fog and rain hadn’t move in overnight while we snoozed in your tiny house.
Don’t remind me! That was a miserable trek back, SPHP. I got soaked in that cold mist.
Despite this evening’s clouds, getting soaked seemed to be the least of Lupe’s worries this year. The far N was in a severe drought. Scarcely a drop of rain anywhere! Wildfire smoke first encountered in British Columbia had driven Lupe out of the Yukon only yesterday, and today’s drive in Alaska had been through smoke for hundreds of miles.
This afternoon, the smoke had been especially bad near the Tanana River on the way to Fairbanks. Only once well E of Fairbanks along the Steese Highway had there been any relief. Happily, for the first time in many days, the air had been perfectly clear at Twelvemile Wayside. The clean air toward Porcupine Dome was truly a beautiful sight.
However, there still hadn’t been a drop of rain, and smoke wasn’t all that far away. Even now, looking SE toward Mastodon Dome (4,418 ft.), a certain amount of haze was present.
Hope the smoke isn’t any worse tomorrow, SPHP.
Me too, Looper. Good chance it will be, though. The W wind’s supposed to push the smoke this way. Nothing we can do about it, except wait and see. Want to go a little farther?
It’s a beautiful evening, SPHP. Let’s do it!
Taking the short spur trail back down to the main one, Lupe then went as far as the next big, barren hill to the NW. This gently rounded hill was almost featureless other than a small rocky ridge just W of the trail. The Carolina Dog scrambled up for a look around before turning back.
The sun still hadn’t set, so Lupe returned briefly to the first hill on the way back to the Eagle Summit Wayside. The RAV4 was visible as a tiny blue dot down at the parking lot. A big plateau was on the opposite side of the Steese Highway. That was Eagle Summit (4,000 ft.), first objective along her journey to Mastodon Dome tomorrow, smoke permitting.
8-4-23, 6:34 AM, Eagle Summit Wayside – Incredible! A darkly overcast sky, especially to the S & W, and mist on the windshield. Lupe left the RAV4 to sniff the air, SPHP following.
Sheesh! Looks like rain! Last thing I was expecting, Loop. I was afraid the air would be thick with smoke again this morning.
This is great news, SPHP! Let’s hope for a monsoon to put the fires out.
One extreme to the next, aye, Loopster? No, you’re right, rain would be a real blessing. Can use all we can get at the moment.
As if on command, a light rain commenced. Lupe leapt back into the RAV4.
Mastodon Dome will have to wait, SPHP. I’m going back to sleep.
I’ll meet you in Dingo Dreamland, Looper.
8-4-23, 8:26 AM, 55ºF, Eagle Summit Wayside – A big patch of blue sky was over by Porcupine Dome. Still overcast and gray elsewhere, but not as darkly as before. Sadly, the rain hadn’t amounted to much.
Mastodon Dome time, SPHP!
So it is, Sweet Puppy! Let me finish getting the pack ready, and we’ll be off.
Near the end of the short hike down to the Steese Highway from the Eagle Summit Wayside, an odd white metal shed sat off to the L. Very sturdy, it appeared to be some sort of refrigeration or cold storage unit. Curious, SPHP turned the handle and looked inside.
What’s in there, SPHP?
Only a few scraps of lumber, and graffiti on the walls, Loopster.
That’s it? Nothing worthwhile?
Actually, there is, Loop. The graffiti includes a poem called “Windy Trail”.
Let’s hear it, SPHP.
Windy Trail
Scat scattered on a windy trail.
A yellow flower from a rainy vale.
The alpine ridge proves life frail.
Summits seem to sing and wail.
Windy voices telling a tale?
Or nature’s reminder it will prevail.
Life back home tends to pale,
Every time I’m on this windy trail.
Friday, August 13, 1993 – GSM
So, what do you think of it, Loopster?
Not exactly The Raven by Edgar Allen Poe, but I like it, SPHP.
Me, too! Certainly better than I could do. Just think – another 9 days and “Windy Trails” will be 30 years old! Lots of people must have seen it by now. Well, being way out here in rural Alaska, at least a few.
Post it to my blog and GSM will become famous, SPHP!
Hah! Maybe. A lot of good it will do GSM, anyway. Probably dead by now.
The fate of many an author, SPHP. After creating a masterpiece, it’s death first, fame later.
I know the feeling, Looper.
Regardless of the merits or faults of “Windy Trail”, it was time to move on. Reaching the Steese Highway, Lupe followed it a short distance NE to where a muddy lane left the highway at the base of Eagle Summit’s NW slope. Crossing the ditch along this lane, the American Dingo started up.
8-4-23, 9:09 AM, Eagle Summit (4,000 ft.) – Gaining 300 feet of elevation during a steady, relatively steep climb up the featureless tundra-covered slope, Lupe reached the edge of a vast summit plain. A loose cairn sat only a little S of where she’d come up. Investigation revealed nothing of interest other than the view NW back toward the Eagle Summit Wayside, with Peak 4350 and Porcupine Dome (4,915 ft.) beyond.
Blue sky was spreading quite rapidly in that direction, although it was still cloudy everywhere else. Despite the early morning rain showers, a layer of smoke was visible draped over the mountains, brought in by a 10 mph breeze out of the W.
The plain wasn’t completely flat. The highest ground on Eagle Summit was clearly toward the E, so Lupe ventured over that way. She found nothing at all here, except a view of a series of barren, blue gray hills and ridges softened by haze.
Not a tree or bush on any of those hills, SPHP. It all looks so vast and empty, like we could keep going forever!
Many of the valleys are forested, Loop, but we’re above treeline. Mastodon Dome has been on your list of possibilities for several years now. I used to wonder how hard it would be to wander through the forest for miles to get to it. Then, when we finally came here last year and visited Porcupine Dome and Pinnell Mountain, I realized there was nothing to this. We start out already in the alpine, and enjoy sweeping views every step of the way!
Makes for an easy, scenic romp, SPHP! Plus, it ought to be a cinch to spot any mastodons that come sauntering along our route.
Indubitably! I’m really looking forward to seeing an enormous herd of mastodons. Hope we don’t run into any saber-tooth tigers, though!
Don’t sweat it, SPHP. You’re traveling with a saber-toothed Dingo!
Not sure those little canines qualify as saber teeth, Looper.
Oh, really? Here, let me bite you, SPHP. Then tell me what you think.
Uh, no. Kind of you to offer, but I’ll pass. However, you are now officially in charge of dispensing with any saber-tooth tigers we run into.
Mastodon Dome was already in sight, still more than 4 miles SSE as the crow flies. Without further ado, Lupe trotted S, sniffing and roaming as she pleased across the Eagle Summit plain.
Near the S end of this vast plateau, the American Dingo came across an old jeep trail, apparently a continuation of the muddy track where Lupe had left the Steese Highway. The jeep trail headed SE down to the first of 3 broad saddles she would cross on the way to Mastodon Dome. During this first descent, nearly all of the elevation gained while climbing Eagle Summit was lost again.
Crossing the big saddle, part of the jeep trail was muddy again, with ruts full of standing water. Abandoning the road, SPHP avoided the goopiest stretches, simply venturing over the tundra. Fortunately, no large boggy regions were encountered, although things might have been different if this hadn’t been such a hot, dry summer.
Once across this first saddle. the jeep trail began climbing the next big ridge. The rate of climb was pretty easy, and got even easier once Lupe regained some of her lost elevation. The terrain nearly leveled out for a while. More muddy stretches appeared along the road, although most of it was fine.
The road eventually curved SW. Beyond a flat section, it climbed to a more elevated portion of the plateau. Once on top, the jeep trail then turned S, by-passing HP4110. Not wanting to miss the highest spot along this part of the journey, Lupe left the road to pay HP4110 a brief visit.
There had been occasional glimpses of another, more pointed peak E of Mastodon Dome. From HP4110, Lupe had a better view of it. From this distance, it remained hard to tell which was higher, the pointy peak or Mastodon Dome?
Returning to the jeep trail, Lupe followed it during a gradual descent to the next saddle. This second saddle was much shallower than the first one, so elevation loss wasn’t all that significant. Wet spots continued to provide the only obstacles, still forcing occasional off-road forays. Lupe enjoyed getting drinks from various water holes, but most of the time she made rapid progress on firm, dry ground.
The old jeep trail began fading away, except in the damp regions, even before Lupe reached the second saddle. With an enormous amount of room to roam in, and the general route to Mastodon Dome completely obvious, losing the road now and then really didn’t matter at all.
The route turned SE crossing the second saddle, then began curving back to the S as Lupe started up again at the far end. A stream ran down the jeep trail here, once more making its route completely obvious. After a short climb, the ridge flattened out. Mastodons continued to be scarce. The only wildlife was a small bird that kept running across the plain ahead of Lupe.
What kind of a bird is that, SPHP? It doesn’t even like to fly!
Don’t really know, Loop. Haven’t seen any like it in Alaska before. If I had to guess, maybe it’s some kind of plover?
With the help of the telephoto lens, SPHP made several attempts to get a decent photo, but all the images turned out fuzzy.
Although not specifically marked as such on the topo map, a second HP4110 was situated near the S end of this next flat stretch. Lupe was getting close to it, when she came across a metal rod sticking 4 or 5 feet out of the ground. A foot long block of wood was attached to the top.
What’s this for, SPHP?
SPHP examined the block of wood. Any paint had peeled away ages ago.
Dunno, Looper. Clearly a marker of some sort. Maybe it had something to do with the old road?
So glad I bring you along on these magnificent adventures, SPHP. You’re a veritable encyclopedia of information, aren’t you?
From the S HP4110, the third and final saddle leading to Mastodon Dome was visible ahead. While this was a steeper, more substantial drop like the first saddle had been, the entire route going the rest of the way clear up to Mastodon Dome’s summit looked like cake.
A little steep near the end, but appears we’ve got it made, Loopster! Before long, we’ll be way up on Mastodon Dome!
Incredibly disappointing, SPHP!
What! Why?
All this way and not a single mastodon anywhere, SPHP! One bird, what’s that? I’d hoped to see huge herds of ancient, shaggy mammoths stomping across these stupendous ridges, devouring everything in sight!
Looks like they’ve pretty much been here and done that, Loop. Not much left to eat on these ridges, especially if you’re as big as a mastodon.
We haven’t even seen a single discarded ivory tusk, SPHP. At least that would have been something!
Have to agree with you there, Loop. A tusk would be a real find! Even one fresh mammoth tusk might be worth a fortune on the black market.
Oh, right! Like we could actually cash in. Doubt you could find your way to a black market at midnight, SPHP.
Suppose you’re right, Loopster, but how are you supposed to find them, if they’re so dark? Anyway, let’s keep going. Might still be some mammoths on Mastodon Dome. We aren’t there yet.
Near the final saddle’s low point, Lupe made an unexpected discovery. A heap of rusty metal trash, several pieces of which were quite large and heavy, sat over toward the W edge. Some of the debris appeared to have melted in a fire and resolidified.
Suppose there’s no point in asking you what this once was, is there, SPHP?
Uh, no. All I can tell you, Loop, is that it doesn’t belong here. On the way back, I’ll pack out as much as I can for proper disposal.
You’ll hardly make a dent in it, SPHP.
I know, but every little bit helps.
The biggest climb of the entire journey was now directly ahead. From the bottom of the third saddle, the top of Mastodon Dome loomed more than 500 feet above, really not all that much for a peakbagging Dingo. Full of confidence, Lupe started up the final tundra-covered slope.
Halfway up, suddenly there was some excitement! Spotting movement, Lupe dashed away. No, not mastodons – caribou! Having noticed Lupe and SPHP’s approach, 3 caribou were running S along Mastodon Dome’s NE slope. They vanished over a ridge long before the American Dingo got anywhere near them. Lupe came racing back.
C’mon, SPHP! Caribou!
I know, I saw them, Loopster. I’m coming!
When SPHP finally managed to reach the point where the caribou had vanished, Lupe began whining in frustration.
There they are, SPHP!
Sure enough. The caribou were already way over on Mastodon Dome’s S ridge, now mere dots in the distance. Moments later, they vanished over that ridge, too.
Seeing the caribou breathed new spirit into Lupe. Greatly excited, with renewed confidence in the possibilities Mastodon Dome might have in store, the Carolina Dog sniffed her way higher.
The climb steepened and got a little rockier. Vestiges of the old jeep trail reappeared for the first time in a while. Apparently it had once gone clear to the top.
Enough to make SPHP huff and puff, but Mastodon Dome’s N slope never even got close to steep enough to cause the least bit of concern. Near the top, the rate of climb diminished. Lupe’s long journey ended with an easy romp to the summit.
8-4-23, 12:43 PM, 55ºF, Mastodon Dome (4,418 ft.) – A few rocks greeted Lupe at the N end of a small plateau that broadened out and tilted down to the S. Beyond a wooden cross laying flat on the ground, a cairn sat a short distance away at the approximate true summit. Proceeding to the cairn, 8 feet SE of it, she found the “Masto” survey benchmark attached to a flat rock.
And that was about it. No mastodons, no saber tooth tigers, no caribou, not even any small birds anywhere in sight. If they had been there, the American Dingo certainly would have seen them. The day had become mostly sunny in all directions, views marred only by the smoky haze driven this way on a 15-20 mph W wind.
Greater atmospheric clarity would have been nice, but the smoke wasn’t terrible. Views were much as expected, similar to those seen during the long trek to get here. Barren hills and ridges stretched away toward all horizons. Despite the emptiness, or perhaps because of it, SPHP found it easy to imagine mastodons plodding over this vast, undulating world, their long fur swept by the wind amid flying snow.
Wonder how long it’s been since the last time a mastodon was actually here, Loop?
Quite a while, SPHP. Months, or even longer. I can’t detect any mastodon scent at all.
That’s sad! At least we saw some caribou, and managed to get here. In any case, congratulations on your successful ascent of Mastodon Dome, Loopster. Maybe a chocolate coconut bar will help us get over our dearth of mastodons disappointment?
Worth a shot, SPHP. Bring on that chocolately coconut goodness!
SPHP shook Lupe’s paw, then a comfy patch of tundra 20 or 30 feet SW of the cairn was chosen for the chocolate coconut bar’s demise. Beef jerky, Taste of the Wild, and water rounded out the Carolina Dog’s feast, while SPHP also partook of the beef jerky, then had a vanilla pudding cup and honey-roasted peanuts, too.
Facing W directly into the wind, it felt a bit chilly. SPHP threw a light jacket over Lupe, which she seemed to appreciate, but she didn’t snooze much, staying bright-eyed and alert most of the time while sniffing the breeze. At one point, she leapt to her paws and ran 50 feet SW before stopping to stare off into the distance.
Apparently satisfied, Lupe returned and laid down on the tundra again, giving no indication of what had piqued her interest.
The break spot overlooked HP4280, a rounded hill about a mile away along Mastodon Dome’s W ridge. It was a pleasant scene, and exploring over that way would have been easy. However, it was a long way back to Eagle Summit, and the additional distance seemed unnecessary. Lupe could already see what was over there from here.
Another grand view was in the opposite direction. From the E edge of the summit region, Peak 4222 was in sight. Its W high point was also only about a mile away. Getting over there would have been possible, but required substantially more effort due to the amount of elevation loss necessary to cross the deep saddle leading to it.
To the NNE, there was a view of the Mastodon Creek valley.
Exploring the summit region’s S end, the ground was lower. Minor rock outcroppings tilted skyward here, and Mastodon Dome’s massive S ridge stretched away toward another a series of distant hills, some of which weren’t much lower.
The best view of all was to the NW, where big clouds were building over Porcupine Dome (4,915 ft.) and Pinnell Mountain (4,934 ft.). It was fun to remember Lupe’s explorations over that way along the Pinnell Mountain National Recreation Trail less than a year ago.
8-4-23, 1:59 PM, Mastodon Dome – As always, the time passed quickly. More than an hour an fifteen minutes after arriving, Lupe stood near the summit cairn for the final time, the W wind and a clearer blue sky at her back. Beyond her, the backpack still marked the spot where she’d spent most of her time up here relaxing. A few more minutes, and it would be Onward! Puppy, ho!
Sorry that we’d didn’t get to see any mastodons, Loopster.
Me, too, SPHP! Sadly, I don’t think we will on the way back, either. I didn’t even sniff out a single mastodon pie on the way here. You’d think they’d be easy to find, and all over the place.
True enough, Loop. I’d have probably stepped in one, if there’d been any.
The return was a blast! Unexpected excitement awaited back down at the very first saddle Lupe came to. Caribou! A whole herd of them with giant antlers were here now.
When the caribou moved away, SPHP remembered to fill the backpack with as much of the metal debris from the junk pile as possible. 98% of it is still there for Mastodon Dome’s next visitor to claim.
For miles, Lupe roamed far, wide, and free, no longer sticking to the old jeep trail route. She saw a couple more of the small birds that liked to run rather than fly. A third of the way back, SPHP caught a glimpse of an animal slinking across the tundra at high speed. Possibly a marmot, but Lupe hadn’t seen any others, nor heard any whistles. Might have been a badger or a wolverine!
SPHP also found another one of the metal rods with a 4×4 block of wood on top just laying on the ground, and carted it back, too.
Lupe returned to HP4110 – both of them! From the N one, she enjoyed a view of Eagle Summit (4,000 ft.). Pinnell Mountain, Porcupine Dome, and Peak 4350 were all in sight, too.
Approaching Eagle Summit, a dark cloud threatened rain, but not a drop fell before it sailed off to the E.
8-4-23, 5:51 PM – Mastodon Dome had been a great day! As Lupe turned off the Steese Highway and began trotting up the Eagle Summit Wayside access road, she was looking forward to a tasty dinner in the RAV4 while relaxing on her pink blanket.
Hang on, Loop! I’ve got one more thing to do.
Be quick about it, SPHP, whatever it is!
Leaving the road, SPHP went over to the white metal shed, disappearing inside before reappearing a moment later.
Quick enough for you, Loopster?
Surprisingly, yes, for once! What did you do in there, SPHP?
Not much, Loop. Just needed to take one more picture.
(End, 8-4-23, 5:54 PM)
Links:
Next Adventure Prior Adventure
Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacations to Colorado, New Mexico, Canada & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.