Day 11 of Lupe’s 2019 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!
Late morning, in the G6 heading W on the Silver Trail after leaving Keno City –
Our last chance to climb Mount Haldane(6032, ft.) again?
Probably, Loop. Now that you’ve been to Sourdough Hill(4,739 ft.) and Mount Hinton(6,752 ft.), who knows if we’ll ever come back to the Silver Trail?
You should have bought that bunkhouse in Keno City, SPHP! We could have spent every summer up here!
Yeah, I know. The bunkhouse was darling. We’re heading on, though, Looper. You’ve got adventures ahead all over the place if we hit ’em right. So how are you feeling? Up to Mount Haldane, or not?
If you can manage it, of course I want to go, SPHP! Mount Haldane was awesome! Not going to miss out on seeing it again, especially if this is my last chance ever.
After a late, late return last night, Lupe and SPHP had both slept like rocks. By the time a certain bleary-eyed Carolina Dog revived, the sun had already been shining brightly on a warm (50ºF!) Yukon morning. A leisurely breakfast at the Keno City campground chewed up most of what was left of the forenoon before Lupe had hit the Silver Trail again.
Driving W after leaving Keno City, SPHP hadn’t been able to forget the glorious view of Mount Haldane at sunset during yesterday’s descent of Mount Hinton. The dominant peak to the W, Mount Haldane had stood out highlighted by a golden glow. Rows of mysterious blue-gray Yukon peaks stretched far beyond it beneath a gray sky. Incredibly beautiful! And to think that Lupe had once been up there!
Mount Haldane (L) shortly before sunset the previous evening.
The American Dingo had climbed Mount Haldane exactly a year and a day ago. It was a splendid peak, with a good, known route culminating with a fabulous ridge hike and rocky scramble. With over 3,600 feet of elevation gain, Haldane would be an admittedly ambitious undertaking after the long trek yesterday, but no telling if Loop would ever be this close to the mountain again. This really might be her last opportunity. Just ahead by the Halfway Lakes, the Silver Trail would come within 2 miles of the trailhead.
1:30 PM, 58ºF at the Mount Haldane trailhead – Oh, yeah! It was on! Beneath a brilliant blue sky dotted with puffy white clouds, Lupe once again stood at the start of the trail to Mount Haldane. Another late start, but a fabulous day for it. Full of confidence, the Carolina Dog hit the sandy road that was part of a little triangle near the trailhead.
Loop all smiles ready to set out for Mount Haldane! Photo looks E.
A few minutes brought Lupe to a junction at the E end of the triangle. A second sandy road came in from the SW (R) here, but Looper went the opposite direction, turning NE on a road which quickly lost the sandy characteristic. Mount Haldane came into view as the road curved N.
Mount Haldane (Center) comes into view. Photo looks N.
The road dipped leading into a low area. Must have been a lot drier in the Yukon this summer! Last year this part of the road had been mostly underwater. Trickling streams had fed a series of huge mud puddles. Today it was all completely dry.
In the low area. Last year this stretch had been mostly underwater.
For over 2 km, there wasn’t much to see except forest. Beyond the low region, the road rose and narrowed, becoming more of an ATV trail. It continued rather steeply for a long way before finally coming to a nice level stretch. Another good climb ensued, but this one wasn’t nearly as long as the first. A second level stretch again provided some relief.
The second level stretch led to a short, steep climb where the trail was badly scarred by a deeply eroded rut. This climb abruptly ended at a junction. To the NW (L), the ATV trail continued up Mount Haldane, but Lupe went E (R). Around a bend, the first of 2 ancient picnic tables the Carolina Dog had seen last year sat back among the bushes.
On the first decaying picnic table. Mount Haldane (Center). Photo looks N.
A single track path led up a small embankment to a flat area SE of the picnic table. The trees and bushes scattered across this flat region were mostly small. This was the first halfway decent viewpoint, and a good spot for a short break.
The view had changed since last year. In the broad valley to the NE, Lupe could see a large scorched area. Plumes of smoke were rising from fires still smoldering along the edge of the valley.
Smoke (L) rises from the recently scorched valley to the NE.Mount Haldane from the viewpoint near the first picnic table. Photo looks NW up the Fortune Creek drainage.
After a brief rest, Lupe returned to the junction. This time she took the route going NW. The ATV trail led ever higher at a moderate pace.
Continuing up the ATV trail after leaving the first picnic table behind. Photo looks NW.
The American Dingo was now on a series of very long switchbacks going up the W side of Mount Haldane’s S ridge. Still in the forest, there were no more views until Loop reached the 3rd sharp turn. From here, a big saddle on Mount Haldane’s SW ridge was in sight.
At the 3rd sharp turn after the first picnic table. The ATV trail eventually leads up to the big saddle (R of Center) visible up on Mount Haldane’s SW ridge. Photo looks NW.
The 4th sharp turn was the last. The second ancient picnic table sat right at the turn. Off to the S (R), a narrow footpath went only 20 feet through the trees to a second viewpoint on the brink of a steep slope. A fabulous view of the Halfway Lakes was on display.
By the second ruinous picnic table located at the 4th sharp turn. Photo looks E.Halfway Lakes (Center). Wareham Lake (R) in the distance. Photo looks S.
The dense forest permitted little room at the second viewpoint, so Lupe continued on. The switchbacks were now over. The ATV trail headed NW going steadily higher. For a while yet, Loop was still in the forest, but soon she was getting close to tree line. The views really began to open up as the Carolina Dog made for the big saddle on the SW ridge.
About to leave the 4th and final sharp turn. Photo looks WNW.Close to tree line heading for the big saddle. Photo looks NW.
Still a good trek, but before long Lupe was high enough to see the ATV trail going all the way up to the saddle. So easy! What a great route! As the views kept improving, it was fun to anticipate what Loopster would soon see on the other side of the ridge.
Yes, it was a long trek in the forest, but we’re at the fun part now! Mount Haldane just keeps getting better and better from here! Photo looks NNW.Getting there! Photo looks NW.
Blue skies were overhead when Lupe reached the saddle. A 15 mph breeze was blowing out of the NW, making things a bit chilly, but it must have been close to 60 ºF, so it really wasn’t bad at all. Naturally, Looper crossed the saddle right away for a look at the all the wonderful Yukon territory newly visible to the N.
Before her, a lower ridge extended a long way NW. The top of this ridge was bare, and looked like a fun place to explore. Sadly, Loop didn’t have time for all that if she ever expected to get to the top of Mount Haldane. Next to this ridge was the Bighorn Creek valley. Beyond both was the even larger valley of the South McQuesten River. More ridges and mountains stretched away as far as the eye could see.
Made it to the big saddle! The ridge beyond me is still part of Mount Haldane. The Bighorn Creek valley is on the R. Photo looks NW.
After the big trek to Mount Hinton(6,752 ft.) yesterday, Lupe was ready for a genuine rest. She had already gained 2,700 feet since leaving the trailhead, and still had another 900 feet to go. Other than the wind, the big saddle was a good spot to relax for a bit. SPHP threw a jacket over her so she could doze comfortably in the sunlight.
Squeezing in a Dingo Nap up on the big saddle. Bighorn Creek valley (Center). Photo looks NW.
The Dingo Nap proved necessarily brief. Clouds were closing in, posing a growing threat to the blue skies overhead. The intrepid American Dingo was quickly on her paws again ready to head higher. SPHP had scarcely begun to recover, but managed to plod after her.
The big saddle was as far as the ATV trail went. The rest of the ascent was a straightforward jaunt up Mount Haldane’s SW ridge, a super fun trek with amazing views. Virtually the entire route, which had 3 distinct phases, was visible from the big saddle.
The first phase was a 400 foot climb ENE up to a nearby high point. The ridgeline narrowed and grew rockier as Lupe progressed, but it was all just a trudge higher with no exposure or scrambling involved.
Frequently forced to rebuild blood oxygen levels, SPHP paused often to admire the views. The Carolina Dog did not seem to mind these delays. Despite them, she eventually did make it to the high point.
Loopster starting for the first high point (R). Mount Haldane’s true summit is at (Center). Photo looks NE.Arriving at the first high point. Photo looks NW.
The second phase of the route was pure enjoyment. From the first high point, the ridge leveled out a great deal. It wasn’t completely level, but negotiated a series of small rises and dips. A bit of exposure to the S in some places was always easy to avoid. The ridgeline gradually curved N, bringing Lupe to the start of phase three, the final 600 foot climb to the true summit.
On the level section, with a view of the final climb ahead. Photo looks NE.Mount Hinton (R of Center) in sunlight on the horizon. Lupe had been there less than 24 hours ago! Photo looks E.Getting close to phase 3! Photo looks NNE.Looking down the Fortune Creek drainage. The Silver Trail (the highway to Keno City) is visible beyond all the ponds and lakes in the Haldane Creek valley. Photo looks SE.At the base of the 600 foot climb to the top. Photo looks N.Looking back along the mostly level section. Halfway Lakes (L). Photo looks SSW.
About 0.33 way up on the final ascent, 3 posts stood together on a small patch of flat ground. The climb steepened beyond this point. Even the last of the tundra began to disappear. The route turned into a rocky scramble, but not a difficult one. No exposure, no clinging to anything, just picking a way higher, usually following paths of lighter colored rocks disturbed by previous hikers.
Starting up the third and final phase of the ridge. The posts are up at the nearby high point seen on the R. Photo looks N.Looking back from the 3 posts. The level part of the SW ridge is seen at (Center). The big saddle where Lupe left the ATV trail is the major notch in the ridgeline at (R). Photo looks SSW.Summit alert! Come on! We’ll be there in no time! Photo looks N.
The last little bit was the steepest, but the outcome was never in doubt. Despite feeling worn out, elation grew as Lupe got closer and closer to the top. Suddenly the American Dingo was there, once again standing at the edge of a precipice at the summit of Mount Haldane(6,032 ft.)!
At the summit with a sunlit subpeak in the background. Photo looks NE.
It all looked the same. There was the tall metal pole with the odd disc at the top, the big cairn with a rock wall extension sheltering two boxes – one of new plastic, and a battered ancient metal one orange with rust. The same views of the NE subpeak beyond the incredibly deep North Star Creek drainage, the long N ridge, the look back down the familiar SW ridge, and all the fabulous surrounding mountains and ridges of the central Yukon everywhere one looked.
Mount Haldane had become an old and precious friend!
By the tall pole and the summit cairn. Part of Mayo Lake (L of Center) in the distance. Photo looks SE.The registry boxes.Looking back down the SW ridge. Halfway Lakes (L). Photo looks S.The NE subpeak. Photo looks NE.
Loopster, congratulations, sweet puppy! Mount Haldane! Can you believe it? We’re actually here again! When we left last year, I never dreamed we would ever return! Isn’t it fantastic?
Yes, it is, SPHP! Although it would be even more fantastic, if you’d thought to bring along a Dingo cot. I’m feeling mighty tired now. Do you mind if I take a longer Dingo nap? I’ve completely used up the short one I took back at the big saddle. I’ll come and look at the views with you in a bit, OK?
Oh, sure Loop. Make yourself comfortable and take your time. We’ll be up here a while.
Easier said than done. Without the luxury of a Dingo cot available, a flat rock was about as comfortable as it got. Poor Lupe heaved a great sigh, and curled up.
Catching a few winks at the summit. Mount Haldane’s N ridge (Center). The South McQuesten River valley is in the background. Photo looks N.
While Loopster dozed, SPHP sat close by examining the contents of the registry boxes. The old orange box leaked, and was full of little more than garbage at this point. The plastic box contained 2 registry books.
Mount Haldane is a fairly popular peak. More entries in the registries than one might expect. SPHP looked entirely through one book without finding Lupe’s entry from 2018, but finally found it in the other one. SPHP added her name a second time to commemorate today’s ascent.
Far to the E, Mount Hinton was in view. Funny how things work out. Last year, it had been up in the clouds. Lupe hadn’t even seen Mount Hinton from Mount Haldane. Loop’s first ascent of Haldane was on August 14th, which turned out to be the same day she climbed Hinton this year. Coincidence. Not planned.
Mount Hinton (Center). Photo looks E with lots of help from the telephoto lens.
The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood finally did keep her promise to come look at the views with SPHP, but what she really wanted was to relax. Whenever she could, Loop went back to laying down and taking it easy.
Looper up and at ’em again. Photo looks SE.A mining operation far to the NNE, one of the few blemishes on the Yukon wilderness.Looking way down into the upper end of the North Star Creek drainage. Photo looks NE.Back to taking life easy. Photo looks SE.I’m meditating on the glories of Mount Haldane. Don’t bug me, SPHP! Photo looks NNE.
Clouds kept sailing by. Most of the time, Mount Haldane was in shadow. One cloud dropped tiny snow pellets. It was cooler up here than back at the big saddle, but fortunately not as breezy.
Back in action by the summit cairn. Photo looks NW.Exploring out toward Haldane’s N ridge. Photo looks N.The whole summit region. Photo looks SE.A Dingo’s eye view of the little lakes and ponds down by Haldane Creek. Photo looks SE with help from the telephoto lens.Sweet Yukon dreams, Lupe!Mount Hinton (L) & Mount Albert (6,515 ft.) (R).
In the end, a glance to the W told the tale. 7:45 PM. A glorious hour and 15 minutes on Mount Haldane now history. Hate to, but ….
Looking NW with help from the telephoto lens.
Onward! Puppy, ho!
Last moments at the summit. Photo looks NNE.Starting down the SW ridge. Photo looks SSW.At the big saddle again, looking back at Mount Haldane. Photo looks NE.
So the Carolina Dog left her old friend Mount Haldane(6,032 ft.) for a second time in a year and a day. The return was a long downhill march, easy and uneventful, provided one doesn’t count a sudden, brief attack on SPHP by the mysteriously rejuvenated were-puppy.
Sometimes what you already know is best. Can’t be too many peaks in the center of the Yukon that can claim to be frequented by American Dingoes, but splendid Mount Haldane is one that can. (End 10:40 PM)
Day 10 of Lupe’s 2019 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!
4:30 AM, end of Signpost Road on Keno Hill – Light out already. The rain had ended, but still very foggy with a chill SW wind. Lupe was hungry. Some Taste of the Wild hit the spot, then it was back to snoozing.
Morning at the end of Signpost Road.
8:19 AM, end of Signpost Road on Keno Hill – Still no change, except that the fog was brighter now. Might as well head back down to Keno City. SPHP fired up the G6.
A mile on Signpost Road and Lupe was already below the fog. Merely a gray day down here, with decent visibility. The whole point in coming all the way to the end of the Silver Trail had been to get a shot at climbing Mount Hinton(6,752 ft.), but that was a long march. No doubt it was still up in the clouds, too.
In Keno City, Lupe and SPHP strolled idly along the main street without any real plan of attack. A woman with 2 dogs harnessed to her was also out walking. Out of the blue, she invited Lupe to come along with. Why not? Might as well.
Marielle Reveille was a yoga teacher who was into essential oils. She was in Keno City to help with cooking for a film crew that produces a TV show about gold mining. Her two dogs were Lenny and Monday. Monday had a patch on her leg where foxtail seeds had worked into her skin and created abscesses requiring a veterinarian’s services to open them. Poor Monday had to have stitches twice, and had nearly died from an overdose of painkillers.
Lenny was fine, but had a peculiar fetish for going through culverts. Even during the short walk with Lupe, Marielle had to restrain Lenny from trying to enter a culvert. The walk with Marielle, Monday, and Lenny ended at the Keno City Hotel where they were staying.
With Marielle, Monday and Lenny.
The next adventure was in Keno City real estate. A bunkhouse was for sale! The charming bunkhouse was the perfect size for a Dingo, too! Love at first sight! Lupe was ready to move to the Yukon this instant, or at least have her own summer home right here in Keno City.
Oh, SPHP! Isn’t this bunkhouse snazzy? Comes complete with flowers and moose antlers, too!I can see it now! We can live here every summer and climb a million mountains in the Yukon!
The bunkhouse was adorable, and a summer home in the Yukon did sound like a wonderful idea. If a real estate agent had been present, no doubt Loopster would have had SPHP signing papers.
As it was, though, the idea got lost in the hustle and bustle of a mid-August Keno City morning. A group of three women appeared. They wanted to meet Lupe and chat about their dogs and travels. Right after that, a man on the porch of the Keno City Mining Museum hollered that coffee would be ready in 5 minutes. And so it went.
12:41 PM near the Keno City campground – Things were looking up! An hour ago, the day had suddenly turned sunny and warm. Climbing mountains was back on the agenda! Too bad the morning hadn’t been like this. Lupe could have gotten a much earlier start.
Excited by blue skies, SPHP had things ready to go. A backpacking trip in the Yukon! First time ever. If the weather held, the American Dingo was going to get her shot at Mount Hinton! A mighty big if. Clouds were already reforming. Hardly any blue left. Despite returning uncertainty, Lupe left Keno City taking the road over Lightning Creek. For the moment, at least, it was on!
Lightning Creek. Sourdough Hill (R). Photo looks E.
After crossing Lightning Creek, the road turned SW (R) and started to climb. Lupe passed a big gravelly area on the L. Before long she came to a junction where the main road made a sharp bend back to the SE (L). A mining road closed to the public went off to the W here. Another fairly short trudge higher brought the Carolina Dog to another junction.
On a bank overlooking the intersection, a sign was partially hidden by bushes. The Bellekno Mine Road went L, and the Sourdough Trail went R. The Sourdough Trail was the road Lupe was looking for. That was the way to Mount Hinton!
The Sourdough Trail is the road to Mount Hinton.
The Sourdough Trail made a jog to the W, followed by a sharp curve back to the SE, before gradually turning NE. The lower switchbacks were now done. For a long way, the Sourdough Trail climbed steadily NE along the NW face of Sourdough Hill(4,739 ft.). Tall bushes along both sides of the road effectively blocked any distant views.
The road eventually began to curl around the N end of Sourdough Hill. Upon reaching the E side of the mountain, Lupe came to a sharp turn where a short, rocky section of the road climbed steeply W. For the first time, the top of Mount Hinton(6,752 ft.) was in sight off to the SE.
Mount Hinton (L of Center) comes into view. Photo looks SE.
To the NE, Keno Hill(6,065 ft.) was now out of the clouds. Loopster’s mysterious, foggy climb of the last few hundred feet to the summit yesterday evening looked trivial from here.
Keno Hill (R). Photo looks NE.
The G6 might easily have made it this far up Sourdough Hill, but it was a good thing it had been left in Keno. A high clearance vehicle would have been fine, but the short, steep stretch of road to the W was quite rough. No decent place to park here, either, except a little room up toward the top where the road widened as it curved S.
After turning S, the Sourdough Trail straightened and was in better shape again as it continued climbing at a fairly good clip. However, the rate of climb was slowly decreasing by the time Looper came to a side road the led off to the W. A sign that had seen better days said “Sourdough Summit Loop”.
At the N end of the Sourdough Summit Loop.
Oh, that was good news! A road all the way to the top of Sourdough Hill! Sourdough Hill was Lupe’s first peakbagging objective, sort of a consolation prize in case the weather deteriorated and she never made it all the way to Mount Hinton(6,752 ft.).
The summit of Sourdough Hill was only 4 km from Keno City even the way the Sourdough Trail went, but SPHP had known that the Sourdough Trail stayed well E of the summit, and never actually went to the top. As thick as the bushes were, a bushwhack to get there hadn’t been anything to look forward to.
Naturally, Lupe took the Sourdough Loop Road. This road was rutted, rocky in places, and fairly steep, but served as a great trail. The road soon turned SW. Lupe followed it farther than SPHP expected she would have to before it suddenly faded away.
What? The Summit Loop Road didn’t go all the way to the summit? That appeared to be the case. However, the top couldn’t be much farther, and on the bright side, the bushes were already thinning out.
At the apparent end of the so-called Sourdough Summit Loop road, merely some beaten down grass at this point. Photo looks SW.
The good news was that the American Dingo only had to follow a single track path a short distance through the bushes. After that she could avoid them entirely by staying toward the W (R). She soon reached open tundra, and after short climbs up to a couple of nearly level benches, the top of Sourdough Hill was just ahead.
Looks like we’re almost there! Lupe on the 2nd bench. Photo looks SSW.
The top of Sourdough Hill(4,739 ft.) was amazing! Lupe found herself at the N end of a long, broad ridge extending far to the S. Only sparse tundra vegetation was present near the steep W face of Sourdough Hill, although bushes and stunted trees could be seen not too far away down the gently curved E slope.
100+ feet away near the W edge sat the only significant natural feature of the whole plateau, a single 6 foot high rock outcropping – apparently the true summit of Sourdough Hill! 20 feet from the rocks, perched a bit lower right along the edge, was a large bench with attached desk, a real bench that must have been taken from some old schoolhouse. This bench faced NW with a commanding view overlooking Keno City.
Wow! Didn’t expect this! The true summit of Sourdough Hill is the rock formation seen behind me. Let’s go take a look!Top of Sourdough Hill. Photo looks SSW.
The American Dingo headed straight for the rock formation to claim her peakbagging success! At the summit, a metal rod protruded from a loose cairn of flat rocks. A wooden placard on top of the rod was blank.
A chilly 15 mph breeze blew out of the W. Still a cloudy day, but the clouds were high. Until just a few minutes ago, SPHP had expected that Looper would be buried in bushes on Sourdough Hill, instead she had fantastic views of the Yukon wilderness in all directions!
At the true summit of Sourdough Hill. Photo looks NW.Another view of the true summit. Photo looks SSW.Mount Hinton (L) from Sourdough Hill. Photo looks SE.Mount Hinton (R). Photo looks SE with help from the telephoto lens.Distant peaks of the Patterson Range. Photo looks NE with lots of help from the telephoto lens.
The big old school bench was a curiosity worth checking out, too.
Come on down, SPHP! Don’t want to be late for mountain school, do you? The big ridge on the L is Galena Hill (4,740 ft.). Keno City (Center). Photo looks NW.Now, Dingoes, today’s lesson is Sourdough Hill in the Yukon. Fortunately Lupe was on it! She got an A+. Photo looks S.
Hoping to find the S end of the Sourdough Loop Road, which would be a shortcut back to the Sourdough Trail at a point closer to Mount Hinton, Lupe explored the Sourdough Hill summit region a little farther S. This reconnaissance revealed a wooden post 100 feet from the true summit, but that was all. No roads, trails, or tracks of any kind.
At a post of uncertain significance 100 feet from the true summit. Photo looks N.
The whole plateau was so vast that trying to find a potentially fictitious road didn’t seem worth a prolonged search. Might as well return to the Sourdough Trail the way Looper had come up. Giving up on finding the S end of the loop road, Lupe returned briefly to the true summit before continuing on. At the N end of the summit region, she stopped for a last look at Keno City from Sourdough Hill.
Keno City (R) with help from the telephoto lens. The Silver Trail is the road that heads off to the R. Photo looks NW.Keno Hill (R) from the N end of Sourdough Hill. Photo looks NE.
Once back down to the Sourdough Trail, Lupe followed it S. The road climbed steadily regaining much of the 200+ feet of elevation she had just lost. As the road started to level out, another side road appeared that went W (R). This road was grassy and marked with a cross that said “Sourdough Bench”. Might this be the S end of the Summit Loop Road? Hardly mattered now, even if it was.
At the start of the “Sourdough Bench” road (R). Photo looks SSW.Heading S on the Sourdough Trail.
Continuing on, the road leveled out for the most part on the upper E slopes of Sourdough Hill, yet Lupe kept coming to additional slight rises. It began to seem like she must be almost as high as the true summit again. Near the S end of the long Sourdough Hill ridge, the American Dingo came to a third side road on the R (W). Why, if it wasn’t the S end of the fabled Summit Loop Road! It really did exist!
At the S end of the Summit Loop Road. Photo looks NW.
The high point of the Sourdough Trail wasn’t much beyond the S end of the Summit Loop Road. The road turned SSE and began a long, gradual descent leaving Sourdough Hill behind. Loopster’s ultimate objective, Mount Hinton, was in sight far ahead.
Leaving Sourdough Hill. Mount Hinton (L). Photo looks SSE.Heading straight for Mount Hinton (Center) now. Photo looks ESE.
The road reached a temporary low point S of a big saddle. A tiny creek trickled through several puddles, providing Loop with an opportunity for a drink.
A small stream crosses the road at a low point SE of Sourdough Hill. Photo looks ESE.
The stream marked the start of a long, level stretch. Lupe regained a bit of elevation as the road curved along a hillside, but it soon leveled out again heading ESE on a forested slope. Occasionally there were views to the S of rounded mountains across the Duncan Creek valley.
A glimpse across the Duncan Creek valley. Photo looks S.
The road eventually began a descent into the valley. Lupe came to an abandoned cat at a 3-way intersection, where she stayed to the R. She later ignored a major side road that went to a mining operation.
Starting a descent into the Duncan Creek valley. Mount Hinton (R). Photo looks E with help from the telephoto lens.The abandoned cat at the 3-way intersection. Lupe kept going straight past the R side of the cat. Photo looks E.Loop during the descent. Photo looks SE.
Down in the Duncan Creek valley, Lupe finally came to the low point of the Sourdough Trail between Sourdough Hill and Mount Hinton. A little tributary of Duncan Creek was running down the road in two tracks here before heading off into the bushes.
At the low point between Sourdough Hill and Mount Hinton (L). Photo looks SE.
Lupe reached a second tributary of Duncan Creek shortly before coming to a barren, rocky area on the L (NE) that had been completely graded or dug out in connection with some mining operation. This tributary was somewhat bigger, but still a small stream.
The second tributary of Duncan Creek. The barren, rocky area is just ahead L of the road. Photo looks SE.
Duncan Creek itself was right around the next bend. The stream had been diverted from its natural course, and now ran in a narrow ditch right beside the road.
By Duncan Creek. Mount Hinton (Center). Photo looks E.
Near the end of the large barren spot on the L (N), SPHP stopped next to Duncan Creek. Just ahead the road was much steeper and extremely rough where it re-entered the forest.
That’s Mount Hinton we’ve been seeing ahead, isn’t it, SPHP?
Yup, that’s right, Looper.
Doesn’t look that far now.
I know. Either we’ve been making mighty good time, or Hinton isn’t as far from Keno City as I thought it was. Still a good climb, though. The road looks awfully rough ahead. I’m almost certain this is the place I’ve read most people with 4WD park and start their ascent. I’d been thinking this is where we’d camp. Not a great spot, though. Kind of rocky. I suppose we can make it work.
We’re stopping here? Not that late yet, is it?
5:30 PM, Loopster. Are you thinking what I’m thinking you’re thinking?
Well, seems like it has been getting cloudier, doesn’t it? You know how the Yukon weather is, SPHP. Mount Hinton has been out in the clear all this time. Still is. We don’t want to lose this opportunity, do we?
Excellent point. Alright, we’ll keep going. Let me ditch the tiny house, sleeping bags, and some of this gear, though. I can’t lug it all to the top of the mountain.
Near the start of the forest, the road crossed either Duncan Creek or its largest tributary yet. Last chance for water! The road became terribly steep and badly eroded, as Lupe crossed the stream and kept going.
Starting up the worst section of road yet after leaving Duncan Creek behind. Photo looks E.
The road improved after curving SE (R). A long straight stretch was ahead going up the side of a huge slope. Not quite as steep as that rough section, but still a good workout. Even after having dropped so much weight from the pack, SPHP was pausing frequently to gasp for breath. Lupe was soon above the forest. Looking back, she had her best view yet of the Duncan Creek valley. Mount Haldane(6,023 ft.) was visible in the distance far beyond it.
Looking back at the Duncan Creek valley. The road Lupe took to get here is the fainter upper one going along the S (L) side of the ridge on the R. Mount Haldane (straight up from Lupe) on the horizon. Photo looks W.
Up ahead Lupe could see the huge saddle separating Mount Hinton from Peak 6200 to the SW. By the time the road curved NE, she was already higher than that saddle, although she hadn’t pulled even with it yet. The relentless climb continued, finally easing up near a turn to the E.
The Carolina Dog had made it to Mount Hinton’s lower W shoulder. Only tundra up here, with a few widely scattered bushes. Flat ground N of the road provided a good spot for a break with a view of the canyon to the N. Even Looper was ready for a rest now. She eagerly tanked up on Taste of the Wild and water before relaxing on the tundra.
Chowing down on Taste of the Wild.
Optimism still reigned. The summit of Mount Hinton was now only 1.5 km due E, but the mood was turning gray, somber. Definitely cloudier and cooler than a while ago. Ahead the road climbed only a little way before curving SE and sweeping higher along Mount Hinton’s W slope.
On Mount Hinton’s lower W shoulder. Photo looks E.
Still 1,500 feet of elevation to go. At least, something like that. The break had been nice, but better get on with it! Lupe returned to the road.
Making progress! Look how far down it is to the valley next to Peak 6200 (R). Photo looks S.
Although this road (perhaps still the Sourdough Trail?) had brought the American Dingo all the way to Mount Hinton, it wasn’t going to get Lupe to the summit. Somewhere along Mount Hinton’s W slope, an ATV trail was supposed to go all the way up to the SE ridge.
Despite keeping an eye out for this ATV trail, Lupe didn’t come to it. It did look like some sort of trails were higher up, but no connecting route appeared. The road went on and on, finally disappearing around a bend leading to the S side of the mountain.
We don’t seem to be getting anywhere, SPHP. How much farther to the ATV trail?
No clue, Loop. Thought we would have reached it by now.
Maybe we should just skip it, and go straight up?
Sounds like a plan. Let’s go for it! Lead on Loopster!
No ATV trail yet, so we’re just going to forget it and go straight up the slope! Lupe where she finally left the Sourdough Trail. Photo looks SE.
Only 100 feet higher, the Carolina Dog came to a “road”. This wasn’t any ATV trail. Wide and rough, with some grass growing on it, this looked more like a route a bulldozer had once taken as it gouged and scraped its way higher.
Nothing wrong with that! The bulldozer route made a fine trail. Lupe followed it as it zig-zagged rather steeply up the W slope. Early on she passed a series of posts sticking up out of the middle of the route. Odd.
On the bulldozer route. Photo looks SE.
Up, up, up! The American Dingo was making great progress. High on the W slope where there was hardly any vegetation to begin with, the bulldozer had made a mess. It had gone hither and yon, scarring poor Mount Hinton rather badly. Lupe passed heaps of disturbed rock.
Amid the rubble. Photo looks N.
Above the rocky region where the bulldozer had hung out rearranging Mount Hinton, a lone route higher went SE a little way before curving NE.
Come on, SPHP! The SE ridge is in sight! We’re almost there!
SPHP plodded after Loop, arriving at the ridgeline minutes later to find her inspecting several timbers lashed together that were sticking up out of a big cairn. More timbers were on the ground next to the cairn.
On the SE ridge. Photo looks NE.
The SE ridge was fairly narrow. Lupe had reached it at a minor saddle where it was gently rounded terrain. A rugged high point wasn’t far to the SE (R). What instantly grabbed attention, though, was a fearsome drop only a few feet past the cairn.
Looking over this precipice, Lupe gazed for the first time upon the wild unspoiled territory E of Mount Hinton. In a deep valley, a small dark green forest provided the only shelter. Above it loomed a mountainous ridge in multiple shades of gray, splashed here and there with patches of tan or brown. Beyond that ridge, was another one a more uniform tan. And beyond that, ridges and mountains turned blue by great distance as far as the eye could see.
First view of the territory E of Mount Hinton. Photo looks E.
Awesome! However, this wasn’t the top – the Carolina Dog had to keep going.
It appeared that Lupe might already be very close. Immediately N of the cairn was a rocky ridge. A bit of a scramble would be required to get up on top, but once there, what could be seen of the ridge from down here looked quite flat. Another post was in sight up there. The summit? Not even 100 feet higher!
The summit ridge from the first saddle of the SE ridge. The upper post Lupe could see from here is straight up from the vertical posts she close to. Photo looks N.
Beneath a gloomy sky, Loop’s scramble among the boulders was short and quick. Little lanes of tundra made the going even easier. The first part was steepest. After that it became merely a gradual stroll higher on big rocks. The upper post soon came back into view. Lupe headed for it.
Above the little scramble with the upper post in sight. Photo looks N.
Oh, joy! Approaching the upper post, it was clear the American Dingo had reached the top of Mount Hinton(6,752 ft.)!
The summit plateau was wider at the SW end where Lupe had come up, narrower toward the NE. Four landmarks were here. The first was the upper post she had seen from the SE ridge. The second was a double post 40 feet N of the upper post. 50 feet E of the double post was a yellow metal tripod thingamajig, and 100 feet NE of the thingamajig sat Mount Hinton’s summit cairn.
Mount Hinton’s summit plateau. The “upper post” Lupe had seen from the SE ridge is on the R. Photo looks NE.
Loopster went to visit the double post first. She had a terrific view of Sourdough Hill (4,739 ft.) which she had left hours ago. In the distance, Mount Haldane(6,032 ft.) was the dominant peak to the W.
At the double post. Sourdough Hill is the 2nd ridge on the R. The long ridge beyond it is Galena Hill. Mount Haldane (L). Photo looks WNW.
Then it was on to the yellow metal tripod thingamajig. Lupe had to go by it to get to the summit cairn.
Are you quite certain that “thingamajig” is the correct technical term, SPHP? …. Absolutely, Loop! I’d know one anywhere. Photo looks NE.
And then there she was! Sweet Lupe was sitting next to the summit cairn on Mount Hinton. A sublimely happy moment! For Looper it was temporarily, although deceptively, even sweeter with the discovery of a can labeled Islay Single Malt Whiskey stashed near the top of the cairn.
Success! Sweet Lupe on Mount Hinton. Photo looks NNE.Oh, ho! What do we have here, Loopster?Granite Creek valley (Center). Peak 6400 (L). Part of Mount Hinton’s SE ridge (R). Photo looks SE.There’s only going to be a registry inside? Why did you even show it to me then, SPHP? I was so excited! You’re just being mean, and when I’ve come all this way, too!Survey marker near the cairn.
Already after 8:00 PM. Mid-August, yet it was chilly – low 40’s ºF with a N breeze. The views were fabulous, particularly to the N and E, but the whole sky was a brooding, forlorn gray. For half an hour, Lupe sat on SPHP’s lap huddled under a jacket. Facing N into the wind, everything nearby was a depressing gray or brown, as if winter was on the way.
Toward the horizon row upon row of blue peaks marched away until they faded into the haze of infinity. Many of those wild peaks were striking, splendid mountains, but few appeared appeared as high as Mount Hinton. What was out there? The Carolina Dog would never know more than what she could see from here. What was out there was a vast and incredibly beautiful land – ancient, desolate, lonely, magnificent.
Looking NE with lots of help from the telephoto lens.Mount Haldane (L). Photo looks W with help from the telephoto lens.Another distant shot. Photo looks N?
30 minutes of rest and contemplation had done a lot of good. The were-puppy suddenly appeared and attacked SPHP before thankfully deciding to chomp a stick instead. A measure of calm was restored with another well-received offering of Taste of the Wild.
The ferocious were-puppy puts in an appearance. Photo looks W.Dinner on Mount Hinton. Photo looks SW.
Picture time. Lupe roamed the area near the cairn, but being virtually surrounded by huge cliffs to the N, E, and S, she couldn’t stray far.
Mount Hinton’s lower NE summit is on the L. Photo looks NE.Peak 6400 (L of cairn). Photo looks E.Mount Hinton’s SE ridge (foreground). The notch on the R is the minor saddle Lupe had reached from the far side. Mount Albert (6,515 ft.) (Center) is the more distant peak beyond the SE ridge. Photo looks SSE.The Duncan Creek valley and Mount Haldane (both L). Sourdough Hill (between Lupe’s ears). Photo looks WNW.Keno Hill(6,065 ft.) (R of Center beyond the valley) where Lupe had been yesterday evening in the fog. Photo looks NNW with help from the telephoto lens.
Loop had been so lucky to get here today! No rain, at least not yet, and the clouds had remained above the mountains. Reaching Mount Hinton was a dream come true! Even though it was getting late, Lupe and SPHP lingered savoring each moment.
The Granite Creek valley. Peak 6400 (L). Photo looks ESE.Relaxing near the cairn. Photo looks ENE.Looking SSE.
After 9:00 PM. A marvelous hour already flown by. Lupe’s name was in the registry. She’d seen the splendors of the Yukon from Mount Hinton. What a grand time it had been! The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood offered SPHP a high four.
High four, SPHP! Well done! Mount Hinton is a success!
The inevitable sad moment. Time to go. Lupe stayed near the cairn, while SPHP got started.
Final moments near the summit cairn. Photo looks NNE.
SPHP called. The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood came dashing across the top of Mount Hinton.
Onward! Puppy, ho! Lupe returned to the SE ridge and the bulldozer route. She was still high on Hinton’s W face where everything was so torn up when SPHP mistakenly led her down a different bulldozer track than the one she’d come up.
Back on Mount Hinton’s upper W face. Part of Mayo Lake (L). Peak 6200 (Center). Photo looks SW.
Although this bulldozer track was much rougher and steeper, it didn’t matter too much. Lupe finally reached the Sourdough Trail again, not far from where she’d originally left it.
Oh, it was all so easy now! Just follow the Sourdough Trail! Downhill all the way back to where the tiny house and sleeping bags were stashed next to Duncan Creek.
As Lupe lost elevation, the air grew warmer, comfortably cool instead of chilly. The downhill march felt good. Why camp at Duncan Creek? Why not keep going? Such a beautiful evening! Decision made.
Heading back to Duncan Creek, still far below. Photo looks WNW.Mount Haldane (L) shortly before sunset. Photo looks W with help from the telephoto lens.
The sun was down, twilight growing dim, by the the time Lupe reached Duncan Creek again. SPHP started gathering gear up. Ugh! Back to a heavy pack. Standing stock-still peering intently at the bushes directly across the creek, the American Dingo suddenly growled deep and low.
A chill ran up SPHP’s spine. What was over there? A bear? Nothing in sight, and no noise heard over the babbling brook. If a decision hadn’t already been made to keep going, one would have been now! Quietly finishing, SPHP hoisted the pack. Looper growled a couple more times, but followed SPHP down the Sourdough Trail.
A little farther on, after crossing all the little tributaries of Duncan Creek, it happened again. Lupe was past the abandoned cat, and clear up to the level part of the road when she stopped and growled once more. This time she was peering at the trees on the L (S) next to the road. A weak flashlight revealed – nothing.
A moment’s hesitation, then onward. Whatever Lupe sensed made no appearance. Just as well.
The quiet, cool, night trek was awesome, but long trudge back up to Sourdough Hill was wearying. Even in the darkness, the sky looked funny. Rain out of the W! A shower, no more. For 45 minutes, a light rain fell. Damp, but not drenched.
The descent to Keno City had already begun when great danger ambled out of the bushes alongside the road. A dreaded porcupine! No, two of them! Fortunately, the weary Dingo showed no interest.
The scattered lights of Keno finally came into view. Even downhill was hard now. Exhaustion was setting in. The Sourdough Trail went on and on. At last it was over. Lupe was crossing Lightning Creek. There was the G6! Hallelujah! (8-15-19, 1:47 AM)
