Lake Benchmark Mountain, Brooks Range, Alaska (8-19-17)

Day 20 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

3:12 AM, 36°F – Already seems like there’s a bit of light.  Lupe was out of her blankie.  Pulled it back over her.  Keep the puppy warm!  Too early.  Back to sleep.

4:18 AM, 35°F – Definitely light out now, but the whole world is densely fogged over.  Maybe a ground fog like the morning after Lupe climbed Caribou Mountain (3,179 ft.)?  If so, it may burn away, but the weak Arctic Sun will take hours to do so.  Meanwhile, nothing to do but sleep.

5:35 AM, 35°F – Except for the patch of boreal tundra right here, the whole world is invisible.  Misting lightly.  Loop went out.  Everything’s cold and wet.  She’s back in the G6 licking herself off.  Have to wait for the fog to lift.  Maybe Lupe’s next Dingo Vacation should be to some place with palm trees?

Okay … so what are we thinking here, SPHP? Cause I’m thinking it’s back under the blankie time!

8:48 AM, 38°F – The weakling sun has managed to make some progress against the fog.  Can see 0.5 mile now.  Shared a can of chili and a can of beef and barley soup with Looper.  She’s back to dozing.

10:18 AM, 39°F – Sunshine on the hills.  Visibility is a few miles.  A patch of blue sky is off to the NW.  Loopster still conked out!  A small knoll exists out on the North Slope maybe 0.25 mile away.  It’s lower than where the G6 is, but a bit higher than what’s around it.  Should make a decent objective for Lupe’s farthest point N ever.  Guess it’s time for her Stroll to the North Slope Knoll!

View of the first high ridge on the N side of the Brooks Range from the S edge of the North Slope. (Area near Dalton Highway milepost 278.) Photo looks SSE.
Loopster still catching some Z’s in the G6. She must really have been tired!

Daylight in the swamps, Loop!

Hmm?  You mean get up?  Can we even see the swamps yet, SPHP?

Yes, we actually can.  Time for your Stroll to the North Slope Knoll!

Stroll to the North Slope Knoll?  What’s that supposed to mean?

Off to the N or NW from here, I see a little rise, a knoll, only slightly above the surrounding terrain.  It’s not far at all.  We’re going to start what’s left of this morning off with a quick stroll over there.  The knoll isn’t even as high as where we are now.  Super easy.  We’ll be back before you know it.

Oh!  A little romp on the North Slope tundra?  Sounds like fun to me!  Any particular reason we’re doing this?  It’s not much like you to want to go to a knoll, SPHP.

Yes, there is a reason.  There’s a good chance that knoll is going to wind up being as far N as you and I will ever be in our whole lives.  Remember your 2016 Last Mile North trek, which we did again only yesterday?  This is like that, except the updated 2017 version of it.  Out here on the North Slope just beyond the Brooks Range, you are 71 miles farther N than last year’s record.

So we aren’t going any farther N than this?  Yesterday evening you were practically a nutcase about the North Slope!

Oh, I’ve thought about it a lot.  If you could take the Arctic Ocean tour, we’d go for sure, but Dingoes aren’t allowed.  I don’t think there’s much in the way of mountains we could climb between here and the ocean either.  At least I don’t know of any.  So maybe it doesn’t make sense to go any farther than this, though I am curious.  Galbraith Lake and Lake Benchmark Mountain are as far N as I’d planned for us to go, so this is probably it.  We are already a few miles N of both of them.

I see.  So we’re just going to take this short Stroll to the North Slope Knoll, oooh and aaah a bit looking at whatever we can see of the North Slope from there, then turn around and come right back?

Eh, yeah, guess that’s about the size of it.  So, come on, let’s do it.  We have bigger fish to fry after your Stroll to the North Slope Knoll, too.

The Stroll to the North Slope Knoll was a marvelous journey!  Learned something right away.  Where the tundra was yellow and gold, the ground was boggy and wet.  Where reddish and pale green plants were dominant, small rocks and drier, firmer footing existed.  The tundra had way more yellow and gold on offer than reds and pale greens, but SPHP found ways to link up the reds and greens sufficiently to avoid getting wet feet.  Lupe sniffed and played wherever she pleased, unconcerned by such trifles as wet paws.

Lupe stands near the start of a long stretch of reds and pale greens leading toward the nearly imperceptible North Slope Knoll she was heading for. Photo looks NW.

The tundra also harbored large mushrooms, many more than half a foot in diameter.  They weren’t super common, but it wasn’t necessary to look long before finding one, either.

The tundra harbored large mushrooms, often half a foot in diameter.

The North Slope Knoll turned out to be more like 0.33 mile from the G6, not 0.25 mile.  Even so, the strange, incredible sensation of walking as far N as one ever would was over all too soon.

The knoll wasn’t all that perceptible even standing there right on it.  The rise was almost a figment of SPHP’s imagination, amounting to little more than a short ridge only a few feet high.  This was it, though.  Likely as far N in the world as Lupe and SPHP would ever be.

A patch of green next to a barely medium-sized rock seemed to be as high as anything else.  That rock would do.  It could be the official endpoint of the Stroll to the North Slope Knoll.  Naturally, congratulations were in order.  SPHP shook Lupe’s paw, praising her for reaching the North Slope of Alaska beyond the Brooks Range.

The views of the North Slope were beautiful.  Rolling tundra, small lakes, big hills.  In the distance, small mountains.  All empty and pristine, as if humanity’s teeming billions didn’t exist.  The world looking as it always had for eons, yet for how much longer?  A blink of an eye?  A depressing thought, but only SPHP’s.  To the American Dingo the world looked as it should, completely normal.

Completely normal? Oh, I don’t know about that, SPHP! The North Slope is pretty and vast and empty enough, but is in desperate need of more squirrels! Photo looks N.
On the patch of green at the end of the Stroll to the North Slope Knoll. Photo looks NW.
Looper at the North Slope Knoll, as far N as she had ever been. She’s broken her old 2016 record by 71 miles here.
Looking back from the North Slope Knoll toward the Dalton Highway and Alaska oil pipeline. The G6 is a mere dark spec on the R. Photo looks SSE.

Lupe and SPHP returned to the G6 energized and enthusiastic!  (10:58 AM, 40°F)  The Stroll to the North Slope Knoll, though short, had been an amazing, fun experience to remember always.  Now it was time for Lupe to make an attempt on Lake Benchmark Mountain, the mountain at the far N end of the Brooks Range she had come so far to climb.

Feeling sad, SPHP drove S on the Dalton Highway.  If the sky would clear up for a little while this afternoon, Lupe should have a tremendous view of Alaska’s North Slope from Lake Benchmark Mountain.  However, she would never again actually be out on the North Slope, and as far N as she had just been at the little knoll.

Lupe on the Dalton Highway on her way S again. She hasn’t gotten far yet. Galbraith Lake is in view. Photo looks S.
The Galbraith Lake airport is beyond Lake 2660 on the L. Photo looks SW from the Dalton Highway.

After crossing the bridge over the Atigun River, SPHP parked the G6 at a large parking lot on the W side of the Dalton Highway.  Lupe would start for Lake Benchmark Mountain (5,000 ft.) from here.  (11:32 AM, 42°F)

Lupe at the parking lot on the W side of the Dalton Highway just S of the Atigun River. SPHP mistakenly believed Lake Benchmark Mountain was the high distant ridge seen straight up from Lupe. Photo looks N.

Lupe started out by crossing the Dalton Highway bridge back over to the N bank of the Atigun River.  She continued N on the highway to a side road that went E to the Alaska oil pipeline service road.

Following the oil pipeline service road is always fun and easy!  Lupe had a good time racing around on the tundra nearby, while SPHP stuck to the road going N.

Looper on the Dalton Highway bridge over the Atigun River. Peak 5308 is at Center. Photo looks E.
Loopster having a blast on the Alaska oil pipeline service road. Soon she would have to leave it to climb the big ridge on the R. Photo looks N.
A crow wonders what a Carolina Dog is doing way up here at the N end of the Brooks Range?
The Dalton Highway and Alaska oil pipeline head off to the NW. Alaska’s North Slope is only a few miles away. Photo looks N.

A beautiful, high rounded ridge was NE of the Alaska oil pipeline.  That ridge was the way to Lake Benchmark Mountain.  After 0.5 mile, Lupe and SPHP left the pipeline service road to start climbing.  The lower and upper slopes of the ridge were spongy, boggy, and full of tussocks.  Only the steepest part of the ridge was relatively dry.  Lupe followed a long ravine containing a small stream as she climbed NE.

Loop enjoys fresh bog water shortly after leaving the oil pipeline service road.
At the base of the beautiful rounded ridge Lupe was about to climb. The ridge proved to be surprisingly wet territory except where it was steepest. Photo looks ENE.

SPHP marched steadily upward while Lupe ran happily exploring the wide open spaces.  Once in a while, the Carolina Dog roamed so far away she was completely out of sight.  SPHP had to call her back then lest she decide the life of the wild Dingo was for her.  Meanwhile, the views of Galbraith Lake and the Atigun River back to the S and W were becoming increasingly impressive.

After a good climb, Lupe has a terrific view back toward the Atigun River valley. Photo looks S.

Lupe went on beyond the end of the stream.  The slope of the ridge was gradually diminishing, but Lupe never came to any definite ridgeline.  She was wandering up an enormous slope that kept going higher.  The whole place was spongy, boggy tundra, full of tussocks.

A big hill was ahead at the far N end of the ridge.  SPHP believed this hill was either part of Lake Benchmark Mountain or would lead to it, but wanted to get a view of the territory E of here in order to confirm that opinion.  Although Loop went NE for what seemed like a long way, she never did get to a viewpoint.  She just kept going higher and higher.

Ahead was a big hill that SPHP believed was either part of Lake Benchmark Mountain or would lead to it. Efforts to get a view of what was E (R) of here failed. The slope just kept going gradually higher and higher that way. Photo looks N.

Before Lupe got high enough to see anything to the E, clouds and fog blew in out of the W.  Hopefully they were temporary phenomena.  Looper was looking forward to a glorious panoramic view of the North Slope from the top of Lake Benchmark Mountain.

The fog made it certain Lupe wasn’t going to be able to get a view to the E now.  She gave up on that idea, and headed straight for the big hill at the end of the ridge.

With fog starting to roll in, SPHP decided maybe Lupe ought to head straight for the big hill. Photo looks NNW.

Fog completely took over.  The hill Lupe was heading for disappeared.  So did everything else except immediately surrounding terrain.  SPHP used occasional large isolated boulders to help keep Loop aimed in the right direction, sighting along them to the next boulder the American Dingo should head for.

Lupe reached the base of the hill, and began to climb more steeply.  She went up a series of rocky ramps and benches.  Although Lupe still came to patches of vegetation, overall this was much firmer ground free of the bogs and tussocks present lower down on the big ridge.  SPHP had a far easier time here, despite the greater angle of ascent.

Loop keeps going up the rocky ramps despite the fog.
Fog is getting thicker, SPHP! … I see that Loop. It’s about the only thing I see besides you.

Partway up the hill, Lupe came to a level area where there was more vegetation again.  By now a cold rain had started in.  Suddenly Loop wasn’t having as much fun as before.

SPHP started becoming concerned about what little could be seen.  A substantial cliff dropped into a gray abyss along the NE side of this level area.  According to the topo map, it shouldn’t have been there.  It most certainly was, though.  To the NW, the hill went still higher, but nothing at all could be seen to the E except more fog.

Partway up, Lupe stumbles onto a flat spot with more vegetation again. To the NW, the hill rose still higher, but to the E there was a cliff on the NE side of the hill. According to the topo map, that cliff shouldn’t have been there. Photo looks NW.

That cliff was bothersome.  It couldn’t be reconciled with the topo map at all, if Lupe was actually on her way up Lake Benchmark Mountain.  SPHP was beginning to suspect maybe Lupe was too far W.  Who could tell, though, in this rain and fog?

May as well check out the rest of the hill to the NW.  Lupe climbed two higher ridges.  She wasn’t at the top of anything significant yet.  All she could see was another two even higher ridges farther up the slope.  The highest ridge was shaped vaguely like what Lake Benchmark Mountain’s summit ought to look like, but hardly any detail could be seen.  How much higher was it?  SPHP guessed maybe 500 or 600 vertical feet.

The rain, which had slackened up for a little bit, now turned to snow.  The snow wasn’t sticking yet, but added to SPHP’s growing sense of uneasiness.  Lupe wasn’t uneasy.  She was just getting plain old wet, cold and miserable.

Wandering around up on mountains at the N end of Alaska’s Brooks Range in rain and snow with almost no visibility?  Maybe this was getting just a little too stupid.  SPHP asked Loopster if she wanted to go back to the G6?  The American Dingo gave her most ecstatic, enthusiastic response possible.

A bitter defeat, but there seemed to be no sensible alternative.  Dang weather, anyway!  How long had it been since Lupe had seen a truly sunny day now?  Seemed like forever ago.  Every day it was dodging clouds and rain.  Lupe and SPHP headed WSW, starting back down.

Loop on a huge rock shortly after starting down. Photo looks NW.
I hate to give up, but we can’t see a thing. It’s raining or snowing all the time so I’m cold and soaking wet, and SPHP doesn’t seem to have a clue where we are. Under the circumstances a meal and a warm blankie back at the G6 is sounding mighty good to me! I mean, what would you do?

Lupe hadn’t lost much elevation yet when suddenly a break appeared in the clouds.  Galbraith Lake was in sight!  Out came the topo map for comparison with the lake to try to get reoriented again.  SPHP quickly became convinced Lupe wasn’t on Lake Benchmark Mountain at all.  She was somewhere on the upper S slopes of Peak 4700!  She was indeed a mile too far W, as SPHP had begun to suspect a while back.

While SPHP was still pondering the implications of this discovery, the sky cleared off to the NW, too.  Lupe could clearly see several high points over that way.  Another review of the topo map convinced SPHP that Peak 4700 was really the next peak over to the WNW.  In that case, Lupe actually was somewhere on Lake Benchmark Mountain.

The views disappeared again as another batch of clouds plunged the hill Lupe was on back into fog.  Still, the brief break in the weather had been encouraging.  Maybe conditions were beginning to improve?  The hasty decision to return to the G6 was rescinded.  Lupe and SPHP set off back up whatever hill or mountain this was.

The climb to the top wasn’t nearly as far as the fog had made it seem.  After gaining only 200 to 250 feet of elevation, Lupe was approaching a line of boulders on what appeared to be part of a summit ridge.  Looper scrambled up a gap between boulders.  A survey pin could be seen only 20 feet away to the E!  Hopes soared that maybe Lupe had just stumbled upon Lake Benchmark?

No, there wasn’t a benchmark, just a survey pin.  Looper and SPHP searched the tops of the highest boulders along the ridgeline.  Nothing.  The top of the survey pin was clearly stamped “Coronary Apsoo No. 4”.  Clear alright.  Clear as mud.  Meant absolutely nothing to SPHP.  It may as well have been Chinese.

“Coronary Apsoo No. 4”. Big help that.
Lupe relaxes near Coronary Apsoo No. 4 (Center), while SPHP draws a blank as to what it meant. The obvious next step was to go to the higher point seen through the fog. Photo looks NE?
Oh, of course I know what Coronary Apsoo No. 4 means! Who doesn’t? I’m just seeing if you know, SPHP. Come on, figure it out!

Apparently Coronary Apsoo No. 4 meant “Go to the obviously higher point so close by that you can even see it through the fog, dummy!”  Nothing else really sprang to mind.  So after drawing a blank by this first survey pin, Lupe and SPHP headed NE on a short easy ridge walk to a noticeably higher point nearby.

The next high point appeared to be the top of the mountain.  The summit area wasn’t huge but was plenty big enough to wander around a bit.  No survey benchmark could be found up here, either, only another survey pin stamped with an equally cryptic message.

Lupe must be at the top of either Lake Benchmark Mountain or Peak 4700, but which was it?  Lupe stood in the rain while SPHP tried to work it out.  A slightly lower narrow rock ridge was in view to the E or SE, but didn’t look nearly large enough or long enough to be Lake Benchmark Mountain’s E ridge.  A short distance to the N was a subpeak nearly as high as where Lupe was.  That didn’t look right either.

In mist and fog Lupe stands at the top of the mountain. The question was, which mountain was it? The narrow, slightly lower rock ridge seen in the fog beyond Loop didn’t appear nearly large or long enough to be Lake Benchmark Mountain’s E ridge. Photo looks ESE?
Not too far to the N was a subpeak almost as high as where Lupe was. That didn’t match up with what the topo map showed for Lake Benchmark Mountain, either. Photo looks N.

On a sunny day, there wouldn’t have been any question where Lupe was.  It appeared more and more that she might well be at the top of Peak 4700.  However, if this was actually Lake Benchmark Mountain, there ought to be a “Lake” survey benchmark back somewhere along the line of boulders near the first Coronary Apsoo No. 4 survey pin.  Looper returned to the pin and once more searched diligently along the line of boulders.  Nothing.

One last thing to try.  Loop and SPHP returned to the mountain’s summit, then continued over to the N subpeak.  Nope.  Not a thing here either.  So this was almost certainly Peak 4700.  Due to the fog, Lupe had climbed the wrong mountain!

The heavy mist turned to snow.  Sheesh!  Better head down.

Lupe lost 200 feet of elevation.  The snow quit again.  Already it wasn’t as foggy as higher up.  Maybe Looper should angle SE hoping to catch a glimpse of Lake Benchmark Mountain?  Seemed like a reasonable course of action.

On the way down Peak 4700, the mountain Lupe had no intention of climbing, but did. Photo looks N.

Going down the ramps and benches, Lupe started to discern the faint foggy outline of some big hill off to the E.  Lake Benchmark Mountain?  Seemed like it had to be.  The Carolina Dog reached the fairly level area she had been to on the way up Peak 4700.  She headed E near the cliff to the NE.  Yes!  No mistake.  Lake Benchmark Mountain was in view!

The big hill at Center is the W end of Lake Benchmark Mountain. Photo looks E.

Wow, there was still a pretty big elevation drop between here and there!  At least it wasn’t as foggy out as earlier.  The really good news was that what could be seen of Lake Benchmark Mountain looked climbable.  Just a really big, fairly steep hill, but no worse than that.

Now or never!  By the time Looper had worked her way down Peak 4700’s long SE ridge to a wide boggy flats leading to Lake Benchmark Mountain, she had lost 600 feet of elevation.  She would have to regain it all plus another 200 feet to reach Lake Benchmark’s summit.

The climb was definitely steeper than Peak 4700 had been.  The lower slope was easy.  As things became steeper, lanes of vegetation leading up scree covered slopes helped.  Lupe eventually reached areas of nothing but scree.  Fortunately she had already regained a ton of elevation by then.

Starting up the W end of Lake Benchmark Mountain. Easy down here, just a big hill! Photo looks NE.
Higher up on the scree slopes looking back at Peak 4700, which Lupe had just climbed in the fog by mistake. Photo looks W.

By the time the slope of the mountain moderated, Lupe was pretty high.  She was back into fog, and it was snowing.  The snow was starting to stick.  A series of wide, relatively level areas covered with vegetation ran roughly E/W in long strips.  These strips of land were separated by minor slopes or ridges, which presented walls of rock or lines of boulders in some areas, although it was always possible to go around them.

Lupe followed each of these vegetated bands some distance E before turning N and climbing up to the next one.  The climbs were short and never difficult.

Loopster fairly high up on the W end of Lake Benchmark Mountain now. She’s near the start of the E/W bands of vegetation separated by ridges where there was more rock. The bands to the N were higher than those to the S. Photo looks NNE.
Loop on another strip of vegetation with a typical rock wall providing separation from the next higher band beyond it. Photo looks NE.

After crossing several of these vegetated bands and climbing to higher ones, Lupe was faced with a more formidable, longer wall of rock.  Was that the summit ridge?  It certainly seemed possible.  The Carolina Dog traveled E below the wall of rock until she reached a place where it was possible to scramble up.  Nope.  Not the summit.  Off to the NE was an even higher rounded hill.

Lupe could get up on that rounded hill easily enough!  She went right to it and was soon on top.  Poking around a collection of rocks at the high point revealed nothing.  Then suddenly, there it was!  Lower down, a little farther E, some sort of survey marker was sticking up from a loosely assembled modest cairn.  Was it true?  Was that it?

Oh, yeah!  This was it!  Lupe had found the really, truly, genuine Lake Benchmark.  Celebration time!

The really, truly, genuine Lake Benchmark.
A wet Dingo stands next to the authentic Lake Benchmark.
All I can say is, thank heavens it’s not stamped Coronary Apsoo No. 5! Loop next to the Lake Benchmark (lower R). Photo looks W.

Although finding the Lake Benchmark was cause for joy and undeniable proof that Lupe was actually on the right mountain this time around, the survey benchmark was not quite at the top of the mountain.  The topo map showed an elevation of 4,928 feet here.  However, it also showed a small area within a 5,000 foot contour not too far away to the E.

If Lupe wanted to claim a peakbagging success, she needed to go find that higher ground where the true summit of Lake Benchmark Mountain had to be.  After going through all this miserable weather and climbing the wrong mountain, the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood most certainly did want to claim a peakbagging success here, too!  Whether she could see anything or not!

So after congratulations and a brief celebration at the actual Lake survey benchmark, Lupe and SPHP headed E along a relatively narrow level ridge looking for the summit.

Joy turned to dismay.  Loop hadn’t gone far, when up ahead, ghostly rock formations appeared in the fog.  They looked potentially unclimbable for the American Dingo.

Lupe hadn’t gone far from the Lake survey benchmark when she saw a potentially unclimbable rock formation ahead. No!!! Photo looks ENE.

SPHP’s fears were unjustified.  Lupe reached the summit area to find massive boulders and a wall of rock, but open lanes existed providing her an easy scramble to the top.  And just like that, Lupe was there, perched at the undeniable summit of Lake Benchmark Mountain (5,000 ft.)!  Oh, happy day!

Ta da! Lupe stands at the true summit of Lake Benchmark Mountain at the N end of the Brooks Range in N Alaska. Photo looks WNW.
Could maybe have picked a better day for this, SPHP! The mighty, spectacular, sweeping view of the North Slope from here isn’t all it’s been cracked up to be!

The summit was a knob of rock perhaps 20 feet long and 5 feet wide.  The S side of this knob was a solid rock wall 6 to 8 feet high next to a level patch of tundra.  To the N, the knob sloped steeply away toward a chasm of undetermined depth.  Of course, standing up there in light rain and fog, Lupe could see none of the glorious view of the North Slope that she had come so far to see, and would have had on a clear day.

Lupe astride the true summit. Most of the summit knob is seen here. Photo looks NW.

Lake Benchmark Mountain was a grand peakbagging success for the Carolina Dog, but a complete scenic fail.  That really was a shame, since Lake Benchmark Mountain was likely destined to be the northernmost peak Loopster would ever climb in her whole life, and the views ought to have been spectacular.

Lupe thinking deeply profound Dingo thoughts about the significance of being way up here in N Alaska at the top of this fabulous mountain in the Brooks Range.
Hey, SPHP! I was just thinking, since the views are a total bust, did you bring anything to eat?

At least Loop had gotten to see the North Slope this morning on her Stroll to the North Slope Knoll.  Better yet, yesterday evening she had arrived at a fantastic, magical moment to see it for the first time ever when there was rain and sunshine and rainbows and a sea of gold out there.  Still would have been fantastic to see the North Slope from up here, but that’s the way it goes.

With no views, and no real hope of seeing them anytime today, there wasn’t much point in hanging around up here in the chilly rain for long.  Shaking her cold, wet paw and trying to make her achievement sound as grand as possible, SPHP congratulated Lupe on her Dingo persistence and ultimate success in getting to the top of Lake Benchmark Mountain.  Lupe loved the attention, but looked rather miserable.

Loop ready to begin the descent.

Lupe was ready to go.  A mere 10 minutes after arriving, Lupe and SPHP began the descent.  By the ghostly rocks, Loop paused for a final look back.

Looking back at the ghostly summit. Photo looks ENE.
Leaving Lake Benchmark Mountain. Photo looks ENE.

The rocky apparitions vanished from sight almost as soon as Lupe left them.  She would never see them again.

Going back down the bands again was pretty easy.  SPHP had built a cairn on the way up to help mark the route, but Loop didn’t come across it.  It started snowing again for a little while, but turned to rain lower down on the steeper scree slopes.

For 10 minutes, the clouds lifted a bit.  Lupe could see the Atigun River 2,000 feet lower at the bottom of a deep valley to the S.  Off to the SW, where it was still foggy, the fog had a strange brownish tinge.  It looked like smoke.  Smoke?  How could that possibly be?  SPHP puzzled for a moment or two, before the fog thinned.

That wasn’t smoke!  That was the golden boggy tundra way down there on the big ridge Lupe had come up at the start.  Loop was going the right way.  She was heading straight for it.

Lupe reaches the low ground W of Lake Benchmark Mountain. Peak 4700 is in fog ahead. Lupe wasn’t going there again. She went SSW (L) instead. Photo looks WNW.

The fog returned.  The big boggy ridge seemed endless.  It rained the whole time.  For a while, Lupe trudged along sopping wet and depressed at SPHP’s heels.  Finally, something caught her interest.  The Carolina Dog was off like a shot.  Despite the rain, she ran great distances.  Loop was having fun again!  She ran and sniffed the rest of the way.

At last, Lupe was far enough down to get below the clouds.  Galbraith Lake came back into view.  The Dalton Highway and Alaska oil pipeline were down there, too.

Near the end of a long wet march along the huge boggy ridge, Galbraith Lake came into view again. Photo looks SW.
Getting there! The S end of Galbraith Lake is in view. Lupe still needed to get back down to the Atigun River (far L), but that wouldn’t take too long. Photo looks SSW.
N end of Galbraith Lake. Photo looks W.

Wouldn’t be too long now before Looper was warm and dry, snoozing snugly beneath her blankie with a full belly.  Lupe never would see that glorious view of the North Slope from Lake Benchmark Mountain, but she had been up there.  She had stood at the very top of a mountain at the N end of the Brooks Range in northern Alaska.  Not many Dingoes can say that.  (7:29 PM)

On Lake Benchmark Mountain, N end of the Brooks Range in Northern Alaska 8-19-17

Links:

Next Adventure                   Prior Adventure

Lupe in the SCREE! – the Mountaineering Club of Alaska’s monthly newsletter & the story of Henry Pinkham

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Cathedral Mountain, Brooks Range, Alaska (8-17-17)

Day 18 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

6:18 AM – Light out, sort of.  Lupe sniffed around near the G6 in a thick fog.  It had rained bunches yesterday evening and most of the night.  No rain now, just this gray gloom.  The air was dead calm.  Little hope existed that conditions would change anytime soon.  May as well snooze a few more hours.

8:44 AM – Awake again.  The Carolina Dog was starting the morning off right, barking at a squirrel in the spruce trees nearby.  Still foggy, but the fog was thin enough now so that a bright spot revealed the position of the sun.  Slightly encouraging, but nothing to get excited about yet.

In the meantime, why not get a photo of Looper by the big red metal gate she’d gone by yesterday to start her fabulous adventure to Caribou Mountain (3,179 ft.)?  As long as the fog persisted, there wasn’t much else to do anyway.  SPHP joined Lupe outside the G6.

The foggy morning after climbing Caribou Mountain, Lupe stands near the red metal gate she’d gone past yesterday to start that adventure. The G6 had been, and still was, parked close by. This gate provides access to the Alaska oil pipeline service road, and is located on the W side of the Dalton Highway about a mile S of the Kanuti River. Photo looks W.

Lupe was still standing next to the red gate, when suddenly the sky brightened so much it actually seemed sunny out.  Overhead, the fog was tinged with blue!  Maybe this was only a ground fog that would burn off before long?

9:31 AM – Well, well!  It was true!  The early morning’s gloom had only been a ground fog after all.  First, a tiny patch of blue sky appeared.  It had spread with incredible speed.  Within only 15 minutes, 80% of the sky was clear and bright.  Sort of amazing to watch!  This Arctic weather was so different from back home.  Suddenly, things were looking up for Loopster!  Adventure was back in today’s forecast now!

The fog had only been a ground fog. The morning sun was burning it away at a tremendous pace. Suddenly, adventure was in today’s forecast for Lupe!

And then, unbelievably, the whole process reversed itself.  The sun had only been shining on the dewy tundra for a few minutes, when the additional warmth caused moisture from last night’s rain to evaporate, making the air more humid again.  As quickly as the fog had burned away, it reformed.  Dense fog engulfed the land again.  The sun no longer existed.

Huh.  Weird.  Really strange.  Lupe had never seen anything quite like that before.  Now what?

Apparently anything at all might happen today.  Since Lupe had finished the adventures planned for around here, she might as well continue N.  She would just have to be flexible, and see how things worked out.

The fog and sun continued their battle as SPHP drove N.  Lupe’s first stop was at an important landmark, one that was even more significant since Lupe had recently become the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood after climbing AB Mountain (5,036 ft.) near Skagway 10 days ago.  At milepost 115.5 on the Dalton Highway, Lupe reached the Arctic Circle.

Lupe reaches the Arctic Circle at milepost 115.5 along the Dalton Highway. She had been here in 2016, too, but this time she arrived as the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood!

The sun had been winning its struggle with the fog, so Lupe and SPHP stuck around at the Arctic Circle for a while.  There was both a picnic ground and campground here.  SPHP used one of the picnic tables to prepare a meal.  Meanwhile, Lupe was entertained barking at squirrels in the forest.

Once the meal was consumed, Lupe continued N on the Dalton Highway.  It felt so incredible to be back in the Arctic again!  The drive through mile after mile of Arctic wilderness was like a dream.  Loop stopped briefly at Gobbler’s Knob (milepost 132) for a view of the Brooks Range, which she was rapidly approaching.

Even before reaching milepost 160, Cathedral Mountain (3,350 ft.) came into view.  It hadn’t rained at all on Loop yet this morning, but a shower had passed through here not long before.  The pavement was all wet.  Conditions were admittedly a bit iffy, and it was already getting a little late in the day for starting such a big adventure, but maybe Lupe could still climb Cathedral Mountain?

Only one person who uses Peakbagger.com had ever climbed Cathedral Mountain, and that had been more than 22 years ago.  Richard Carey had been there on 7-29-95.  Fortunately, Carey had written a concise trip report full of useful information.  Carey had mentioned a small pullout with room for only one or two cars at about milepost 168.5.  Nearing the area, SPHP slowed down to look for it.

SPHP didn’t see any small pullout, but there was a really large gravel pullout on the NW side of the Dalton Highway about where Carey had said to look.  Maybe things had changed in 22 years?  Certainly possible.  SPHP parked the G6.  The American Dingo shot out eager for action.  Things looked a bit iffy.  Cathedral Mountain was right across the Dalton Highway from here, but the sky overhead was looking mighty gray.

Cathedral Mountain from the Dalton Highway near milepost 168.5. Photo looks SE.

All was not gloom and doom, however.  A mix of blue sky and puffy clouds was off to the SW, and seemed to be heading this way.  Loop and SPHP were both in favor of taking a chance on Cathedral Mountain.  SPHP got everything ready, and the American Dingo set out on her next big adventure.  (1:56 PM, 53°F)

Water could be heard on the SE side of the Dalton Highway.  A stream was hidden over there in the forest.  By the looks of the terrain, the stream would pass under the highway a short distance back to the SW.  It would be nice to avoid a creek crossing.  Lupe followed the highway SW until she was past where the stream went under it, before turning S and plunging into the forest.

Loopster on the Dalton Highway somewhere near milepost 168.5. Photo looks SW.

Lupe immediately found herself in a densely packed spruce forest on thick, spongy tundra.  Tall, slender bushes were in the mix, too.  This was exciting stuff for the Carolina Dog!  Lupe ran sniffing and exploring, but was careful not to stray too far from SPHP.

Of course, the thick vegetation was still wet from last night’s rains and the recent shower in this area.  Before long, Lupe and SPHP were both soaking wet, too.  Not unexpected.  Onward!

Lupe was immediately impressed with the dense forest off the Dalton Highway. She ran this way and that, excitedly sniffing and exploring.

From the Dalton Highway, a high barren ridge had been visible to the S well above tree line.  That ridge appeared to be in the vicinity of Richard Carey’s successful line of ascent described in his trip report, so Loop needed to get up there.  The ridge couldn’t be seen from down in the dense forest, but Loop and SPHP headed in its general direction.

Before long, water could be heard again.  Another stream!  Lupe reached it, and found the stream wider and deeper than could be readily forded.  Both banks were lined with dense stands of tall bushes.  Just getting in or out of the stream was an issue, never mind across it.  No way!  Maybe if Loop continued upstream far enough there would be a better spot?  The stream might even bend off to the SW, in which case the Carolina Dog wouldn’t even need to cross it.

The terrain down by the stream was a difficult trek.  Too many bushes amid jumbled rocks.  Loop and SPHP turned E to climb onto a low ridge above the creek valley.  This ridge headed SE, which wasn’t the really the direction Lupe needed to go, but would be fine for a little way.  Climbing up onto and moving around on the ridge wasn’t all that easy, either.  Spongy tundra made each step more difficult.  While the spruce trees weren’t all that big, they were close together.

Lupe came to a few spots where the forest wasn’t so dense.  The high barren ridge she needed to get to could then be seen to the S.  Loop could also see farther up the creek valley.  The news wasn’t good.  The valley was turning SE instead of SW.  Sooner or later, Lupe was going to have to find a way across that darn stream.

A view of the ridge Lupe was trying to get to from a rare open spot in the forest. Photo looks S with help from the telephoto lens.
While SPHP fiddled around with maps worrying about streams and ridges and routes and terrain, Lupe was having a grand time in the forest on her first adventure N of the Arctic Circle since she became the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood!
Another view of the ridge Lupe was trying to get to (Center) from a little farther along in the forest. Lupe eventually was able to climb up the closer hill (L of Center), which led her to the E (L) end of the higher ridge. Photo looks S.

Lupe and SPHP continued SE gaining elevation gradually on the low ridge for a while longer.  Finally, the time came to see how much of a problem it was going to be to get across the creek up here.  Lupe went SSW, leaving the ridge to look for the stream.

The stream wasn’t far away.  This time the news was unexpectedly good.  The stream was rushing along, but much smaller up here, only 3 feet wide and not very deep.  Easy squeezy!  SPHP swung across it with the help of an overhanging branch.  Lupe simply leapt across.

One problem solved.  However, an hour had already shot by since leaving the Dalton Highway.  Puppy, ho!  Time to get up on that barren ridge.

Lupe reaches the stream again 0.5 mile upstream of where she had first come to it. The news was good this time. The stream was much smaller up here than it had been down below. Lupe could easily leap across it.

Once beyond the stream, Loop headed S gaining elevation.  The barren ridge she was aiming for was soon in sight ahead.  The climb got steadily steeper and steeper.  Progress seemed slow.

Another big hill was closer than the barren ridge Lupe was heading for.  It looked like it might connect to the barren ridge much higher up than where the Carolina Dog was now.  Maybe Loop should climb this hill?  Getting above all the trees, bushes, and spongy tundra would be a huge help.  Seemed to make sense.  Yeah, Loop was going to try this closer hill instead of trudging through this difficult stuff all the way to the base of the barren ridge.

The climb up the nearer hill was quite steep.  The trees soon thinned out, though scattered trees and plenty of bushes remained for a while.  The hill narrowed.  Higher up, Looper started coming to rock outcroppings.  The rock formations were small, only 10 or 20 feet high.  The American Dingo always found a way around them, though they sometimes slowed progress.  Before she’d climbed terribly far, Lupe was beginning to get views of the Koyukuk River.

Only partway up the first big hill Lupe climbed she started getting views of the Koyukuk River. Photo looks N.
Rain showers are in progress beyond the Koyukuk River. Photo looks NW.

After what seemed like a long climb, Lupe managed to reached the top of the hill.  She found that this wasn’t a separate hill at all.  Loop was on a small level ridge protruding N from the rest of Cathedral Mountain.  There were no trees here, although some bushes were around.  Most of the ridge was covered with tundra and small rock outcroppings.  Lupe had plenty of room to move around, and the views were the best yet.

Loop had expended so much energy having a blast down in the forest, that she was ready for a rest break.  SPHP concurred.

Lupe curls up for a rest upon reaching the ridgeline at the top of the first big hill she’d just climbed. Her peakbagging goal, the summit of Cathedral Mountain, is beyond her at Center. Photo looks E.
Lupe relaxes near the end of the small ridge. The Koyukuk River is in view. Photo looks N.
Koyukuk River from the far end of the ridge. The Dalton Highway is on the near side of the river. Photo looks N.

While Loop rested, SPHP studied the topo map and read Richard Carey’s trip report again.  Carey hadn’t mentioned anything about a stream crossing.  As soon as Lupe had come to the stream, SPHP had suspected that she hadn’t started from the exact same place as Carey.

The topo map concurred.  It seemed fairly certain Lupe had started out about a mile farther NE on the Dalton Highway than Carey had.  Maybe more like at milepost 169.5 than 168.5.  Eh, whatever.  Looper must have started from just N of the streams shown in Section 12, and had left the Dalton Highway between them.  If the American Dingo had only gone a little farther SW on the highway before leaving it, she would have completely avoided both streams.

This little ridge Lupe was on right now was between the “A” and “L” at the end of “Cathedral” on the map.  The barren ridge Lupe was trying to get to was Carey’s “small hill” in the 2,500 ft. contour ENE of High Point 2545.  Carey had passed a little S of this hill on his way E from the “low saddle”, which couldn’t be seen from here.  All Loopster had to do now was gain the remaining 200+ feet of elevation required to reach the top of the barren ridge.  She would then be in position to intercept Carey’s route the rest of the way.

Simple enough.  The small ridge Lupe was already on connected directly to the slope leading up to E end of the barren ridge.  Best get on with it.  It had taken SPHP two hours just to get this far, and it was still a long way to the top of Cathedral Mountain.  The weather might put an end to things at any time.  Loop had been lucky so far, but rain showers were always in sight not terribly far away.

The ridge Lupe is on leads straight to the E end of the barren ridge she has been trying to get to all this time (Center). The top of the barren ridge is 200+ feet of elevation gain from here. Photo looks SSW.

Reaching the top of the barren ridge seemed to require more like 250 feet of elevation gain than 200 feet.  The upper slope was surprisingly steep.  Lupe had no problems, but SPHP was grasping for anything at all to hang onto, which wasn’t much.  Nevertheless, both Loop and SPHP made it to the top.

For the first time, Lupe could now see territory S of Cathedral Mountain.  A check of the topo map matched up with what Loop was seeing exactly as expected.  No doubt at all where she was now.

Lupe finally reaches the top of the barren ridge. Both the true summit of Cathedral Mountain (Center) and the slightly lower N summit (L) are in sight. Photo looks E.
Having reached the top of the barren ridge, Lupe could now see territory on the other side of Cathedral Mountain. The Dalton Highway is in view passing through low ground dotted with small lakes. Lake 1035 is the larger lake on the L. Photo looks SW.
The “low saddle” Carey had gone through on his ascent is seen between Lupe and the ridge at Center, which is High Point 2545. Twelvemile Mountain (3,180 ft.) is the multi-peaked mountain seen faintly beyond High Point 2545. Photo looks WSW.

From the barren ridge, Lupe could now join up with Carey’s route by heading SE toward an upper saddle at 2,750+ feet elevation.  Lupe had a good view of this upper saddle, though the camera produced a lousy one due to moisture on the lens.  A brief rain shower was sweeping over the area as the Carolina Dog was about to continue on again.

The upper 2,750+ ft. saddle (Center) from the barren ridge. Not such a hot shot due to a rain shower in progress, but still shows the overall lay of the terrain quite well. Lupe was heading for this upper saddle next. Photo looks SE.

The rain shower didn’t last long and was of no consequence.  Lupe lost a bit of elevation leaving the barren ridge for the upper saddle, but was soon regaining it traversing a steep slope well below a rocky ridgeline.  The slope was surprisingly tough going – slanty with minor drop offs, spongy tundra, and lots of bushes.  Lupe finally climbed higher up on the slope close to the lower rocks, and things were a bit better up here.

Looking back on the way to the upper saddle. High Point 2545 is the hill L of Center. Beyond it and a little more to the L is Twelvemile Mountain (3,180 ft.). The barren ridge Lupe had just left is on the R. The low saddle Carey had crossed is at Center. Photo looks W.
Lupe approaches the upper saddle. The rain shower has moved on. Photo looks SE.
Looking back again from near the upper saddle. High Point 2545 is in the foreground at Center. The low saddle is next to it on the R. Twelvemile Mountain is in the distance beyond the Koyukuk River on the L. Photo looks W.

Lupe passed slightly above and to the N of the upper saddle.  She was now heading E on the S side of Cathedral Mountain.  Ahead was another even slightly higher saddle at 2,800+ feet elevation.  On the S side of this highest saddle, High Point 2955 was in view.

Lupe at the N end of the upper saddle. An even higher saddle at 2,800+ ft. elevation is in view on the R along with High Point 2955. Cathedral Mountain’s main E/W ridgeline is on the L. Photo looks SE.

From here, Carey had continued E staying somewhat below and to the S of Cathedral Mountain’s main ridgeline.  The top of the ridgeline was to be avoided, since it was so rocky and jagged.  Actually, the way SPHP read it, Carey had probably bypassed this upper saddle staying quite a bit higher and closer to the ridgeline than where Loop was now.

That didn’t matter.  Lupe could easily angle up nearer the ridgeline as she kept going E.  She headed toward a big rock fairly high on the slope N of the 2,800+ foot saddle.

From here Lupe would head for the highest big rock seen R of Center. Photo looks ESE.
Lupe reaches the big rock on the slope N of the highest 2,800+ ft. saddle. The 2,750+ ft. upper saddle is in view on the R. The low saddle Carey had come though is at far R well beyond it. Twelvemile Mountain is in the distance on the R. Photo looks WSW.

From the big rock, Lupe continued E, slowly gaining elevation.  At first, this route was pretty easy.  However, the slope kept steepening.  As the tundra thinned out, Loop was more and more frequently traversing loose scree slopes.

Lupe continues E on Cathedral Mountain’s S slope not too far below the ridgeline. It was still easy going along in here. Photo looks WNW.
Making progress. Cathedral Mountain’s SE ridge is now in view on the R. Photo looks E.
The slope kept getting steeper as Lupe proceeded E. Vegetation thinned out and Loop began encountering more scree. Photo looks E.

For quite a long way, Lupe could see part of Cathedral Mountain’s SE ridge ahead.  A long slope on this side of it slanted steeply up to the N leading to the still unseen summit.  If Lupe could get over to that slope, SPHP was pretty certain she stood a good chance of reaching Cathedral Mountain’s summit, provided it could be reached without any technical climbing.  Carey hadn’t mentioned any.

However, it was still in question whether or not it would be possible to get over there.  The slope Loop was on kept getting steeper, and SPHP feared the Carolina Dog was going to come to an impassable point.  The views immediately below Lupe’s position were becoming incredible, and a bit intimidating.  SPHP quit looking down.

The mountain presented a series of minor “horizons” coming down the S slope that Lupe couldn’t see beyond until she got to them.  One by one she crossed them going E, but another always appeared a little farther on.  SPHP kept wondering if Loop was too high or low on the mountain?  The answer wasn’t obvious.  The Carolina Dog just kept going.

Finally, a much larger ragged line of rock appeared extending down the S slope from Cathedral Mountain’s main ridgeline.  What would Lupe find there?  Would she be able to get beyond it?  More to the point, could SPHP get beyond it?  Being able to turn that corner was critical to success.  Carey had done it, but he had genuine mountaineering experience.

Lupe needed to reach the greenish slope below Cathedral Mountain’s SE ridge seen on the R. That slope goes N (L) right up to the summit. Carey had done it, but he had real mountaineering experience. The line of rocks coming down from the ridgeline ahead on the L made it questionable whether SPHP could get over there. Photo looks ENE.
Lupe was feeling confident, even if SPHP had doubts. Just have to be able to turn this last corner! Photo looks ENE.

About the time Lupe reached the rocky spine coming down from the main ridgeline, a second rain shower appeared heading straight this way.  SPHP donned the rain poncho.  Once again, Lupe got wet, SPHP didn’t, and the shower passed by fairly quickly without putting a serious damper on things.

A second rain shower swept over Loop and SPHP at the hardest part of the climb up Cathedral Mountain, but fortunately didn’t last long before sailing away. Photo looks back to the SW.

Loop and SPHP had to down climb a bit to get around the rocky spine, but succeeded in getting by it. The worst part of the trek to Cathedral Mountain’s summit was now behind the American Dingo!  If the summit wasn’t technical, she was going to get there.  That wouldn’t be known until she climbed hundreds of feet up the steep scree slope ahead.

After getting by the rocky spine, Lupe still faced a long steep climb up to the ridgeline where she expected to find Cathedral Mountain’s summit. Photo looks NE.

Up, up, up!  Steep.  Real steep, but Lupe was finally approaching the ridgeline.  Big rock formations sat atop much of it, but Lupe could keep progressing E easily enough staying a bit below them.  The summit couldn’t be too far away!

After a long climb up the really steep scree slope, Lupe sits among rocks only slightly below Cathedral Mountain’s main E/W ridgeline. The summit is just beyond the high point in sunshine on the R. Photo looks ENE.
Near the top of the ridge not too far W of the summit. Lupe had come up the slope on the L. Photo looks WSW.
A look at Cathedral Mountain’s SE ridge. Photo looks ESE.

A little W of the mountain’s true summit, Lupe reached the top of the main E/W ridgeline.  Now she could see in almost every direction.  The views were stupendous!  So, so beautiful!

Right up on top of the main E/W ridge now. Photo looks WSW.
A rain shower sweeps through territory between Twelvemile Mountain (3,180 ft.) (L) and the Koyukuk River. Photo looks W.
Cathedral Mountain’s N summit from the main E/W ridgeline. Photo looks NNE.
The Koyukuk River and Cathedral Mountain’s slightly lower N summit. Photo looks N.

An easy stroll E along the main ridgeline brought Lupe to the summit of Cathedral Mountain.  Here she found two 10 foot high knobs of rock.  They were separated by 12 to 15 feet of level ground covered with vegetation.  The E knob appeared clearly higher by a foot or two.  Neither of the knobs was very large on top, but there was room for Loop to sit or stand comfortably.

Lupe scrambled up onto the higher E knob first.  She found a small cairn on top protecting two tin cans that were painted red.  The larger can was turned upside down over the smaller one to shield it from the weather.  The American Dingo had made it!  Despite SPHP’s fears and doubts near the end of the journey, she sat calmly and confidently at the true summit of Cathedral Mountain (3,350 ft.)!

Lupe sits by the cairn at the true summit of Cathedral Mountain! Photo looks ENE.
Loop on top of Cathedral Mountain. The red tin can protecting a smaller one inside containing a registry is in view as Loop found it. Photo looks ENE.
Cathedral Mountain was the first mountain N of the Arctic Circle that Lupe climbed after becoming the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood by climbing AB Mountain (5,036 ft.) near Skagway 10 days ago. Photo looks ENE.

So was there a registry inside the smaller tin can?  Yes, there was!  Inside was a plastic bag containing a pencil and a small notebook serving as a registry.  A surprising number of entries were contained in it.  Far more people had been up on Cathedral Mountain than SPHP would ever have expected.

Inside the front cover was something amazing.  The notebook was in such good condition, it was hard to believe it was true.  Richard Carey himself had brought this very notebook to the top of Cathedral Mountain more than 22 years ago!  His was the first entry!

The notebook serving as a registry was in such great condition it was hard to believe Richard Carey had placed it up here more than 22 years ago. Inside the front cover, his was the very first entry.

SPHP entered Lupe’s name in the registry to make her ascent official.  Lupe received lots of praise for her valiant efforts to get here, and SPHP shook her sweet paw in congratulations.  SPHP recited how Cathedral Mountain was her 3rd summit ever N of the Arctic Circle and 1st of 2017, what memorable adventures each ascent had been, and how splendid each peak was!

Loop was pretty happy with all the richly deserved attention.  Of course, the notebook and pencil went back in the plastic bag and inside the little red tin can.  Everything got put back exactly as Lupe had found it.

Then, even though the day was getting so late it made SPHP nervous considering how long it had taken to get here, it was time to relax a bit up on Cathedral Mountain.  Picture time!  These were views Loop and SPHP would never want to forget.

Cathedral Mountain’s N summit with the Koyukuk River in the background. Photo looks NNE.
A rain shower sweeps over the Koyukuk River valley. Photo looks NNW.
Looking down on High Point 2955 in the foreground. Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.
Cathedral Mountain’s SE ridge is on the R in shadow. Photo looks ESE.
Loopster up on the slightly lower W knob in competition for the title of true summit of Cathedral Mountain. Photo looks WSW.
On the W knob, only a foot or two lower than the true summit. Photo looks W.
Evening sunlight filters through clouds and rain showers down onto the Koyukuk River. Photo looks NW.
Looking NNE farther up the Koyukuk River valley. Cathedral Mountain’s N summit is in the foreground. Photo taken with lots of help from the telephoto lens.
Looking WSW over part of Cathedral Mountain’s main E/W ridge with lots of help from the telephoto lens.
Twelvemile Mountain (3,180 ft.) (Center) in evening sunlight. Photo looks W.

After nearly 40 minutes at the top of Cathedral Mountain, the sad moment of departure drew near.  What a magnificent peak!  Lupe climbed up on top of the summit’s W knob one more time.

Before departing, Lupe scrambled up on the W knob one more time. Photo looks E.
Loop’s last moments atop Cathedral Mountain. Photo looks E.

The return trip was marvelous!  It had seemed to SPHP that maybe Loop had been too low for too long on the ascent.  At times, things had looked easier higher up.  Of course, there was a lot of rock along the top of the ridgeline.  Maybe it wasn’t possible to stay so high, but on the way back, Loopster was going to try.

Staying high worked.  This was a faster route with amazing views.  Lupe was eventually forced down off the ridgeline, but not until she was getting close to the highest saddle N of High Point 2955.

Heading down, but staying high along the main ridgeline as long as possible. This was a better route than the way Lupe had come up. Twelvemile Mountain is on the R. Photo looks WSW.
Loop almost always had to stay on the S side of the main E/W ridgeline when forced to make a choice. The N side was usually cliffy. That wasn’t always true. Here she’s on the N side of the mountain with a fantastic view of the Koyukuk River. Photo looks N.
Done with the main ridge and descending to the highest saddle. High Point 2955 is on the L. Photo looks SW with lots of help from the telephoto lens.
Lupe explores the highest saddle. Photo looks WSW.

Instead of returning to the top of the barren ridge on the way back, Lupe skirted it to the S as Richard Carey had done.  She passed over the low saddle NE of High Point 2545 retracing Carey’s route.  She continued W along the mountainside a little beyond the saddle before turning N and descending between two rounded bald hills.

Lupe with a grand view of the Koyukuk River from the W end of the low saddle Richard Carey had crossed N of High Point 2545. Photo looks N.

Lupe’s route below the bald hills was steep, but was full of thick tundra, which made it soft and easy.  Going up here would have been tough, but Loop made rapid progress down the slope.  She never did have to cross a stream, although she did cross a long stretch of boggy terrain on a much more gentle slope nearing the Dalton Highway.

The light was almost gone by the time Lupe made it back to the Dalton Highway.  A 0.25 mile gradual uphill trek remained to Alpo and a warm blankie inside the G6.  What a wonderful day Cathedral Mountain had been!  (11:00 PM)

The Koyukuk River from the low saddle near day’s end, Cathedral Mountain, Brooks Range, Alaska 8-17-17

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