Cathedral Mountain, Brooks Range, Alaska (8-17-17)

Day 18 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

6:18 AM – Light out, sort of.  Lupe sniffed around near the G6 in a thick fog.  It had rained bunches yesterday evening and most of the night.  No rain now, just this gray gloom.  The air was dead calm.  Little hope existed that conditions would change anytime soon.  May as well snooze a few more hours.

8:44 AM – Awake again.  The Carolina Dog was starting the morning off right, barking at a squirrel in the spruce trees nearby.  Still foggy, but the fog was thin enough now so that a bright spot revealed the position of the sun.  Slightly encouraging, but nothing to get excited about yet.

In the meantime, why not get a photo of Looper by the big red metal gate she’d gone by yesterday to start her fabulous adventure to Caribou Mountain (3,179 ft.)?  As long as the fog persisted, there wasn’t much else to do anyway.  SPHP joined Lupe outside the G6.

The foggy morning after climbing Caribou Mountain, Lupe stands near the red metal gate she’d gone past yesterday to start that adventure. The G6 had been, and still was, parked close by. This gate provides access to the Alaska oil pipeline service road, and is located on the W side of the Dalton Highway about a mile S of the Kanuti River. Photo looks W.

Lupe was still standing next to the red gate, when suddenly the sky brightened so much it actually seemed sunny out.  Overhead, the fog was tinged with blue!  Maybe this was only a ground fog that would burn off before long?

9:31 AM – Well, well!  It was true!  The early morning’s gloom had only been a ground fog after all.  First, a tiny patch of blue sky appeared.  It had spread with incredible speed.  Within only 15 minutes, 80% of the sky was clear and bright.  Sort of amazing to watch!  This Arctic weather was so different from back home.  Suddenly, things were looking up for Loopster!  Adventure was back in today’s forecast now!

The fog had only been a ground fog. The morning sun was burning it away at a tremendous pace. Suddenly, adventure was in today’s forecast for Lupe!

And then, unbelievably, the whole process reversed itself.  The sun had only been shining on the dewy tundra for a few minutes, when the additional warmth caused moisture from last night’s rain to evaporate, making the air more humid again.  As quickly as the fog had burned away, it reformed.  Dense fog engulfed the land again.  The sun no longer existed.

Huh.  Weird.  Really strange.  Lupe had never seen anything quite like that before.  Now what?

Apparently anything at all might happen today.  Since Lupe had finished the adventures planned for around here, she might as well continue N.  She would just have to be flexible, and see how things worked out.

The fog and sun continued their battle as SPHP drove N.  Lupe’s first stop was at an important landmark, one that was even more significant since Lupe had recently become the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood after climbing AB Mountain (5,036 ft.) near Skagway 10 days ago.  At milepost 115.5 on the Dalton Highway, Lupe reached the Arctic Circle.

Lupe reaches the Arctic Circle at milepost 115.5 along the Dalton Highway. She had been here in 2016, too, but this time she arrived as the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood!

The sun had been winning its struggle with the fog, so Lupe and SPHP stuck around at the Arctic Circle for a while.  There was both a picnic ground and campground here.  SPHP used one of the picnic tables to prepare a meal.  Meanwhile, Lupe was entertained barking at squirrels in the forest.

Once the meal was consumed, Lupe continued N on the Dalton Highway.  It felt so incredible to be back in the Arctic again!  The drive through mile after mile of Arctic wilderness was like a dream.  Loop stopped briefly at Gobbler’s Knob (milepost 132) for a view of the Brooks Range, which she was rapidly approaching.

Even before reaching milepost 160, Cathedral Mountain (3,350 ft.) came into view.  It hadn’t rained at all on Loop yet this morning, but a shower had passed through here not long before.  The pavement was all wet.  Conditions were admittedly a bit iffy, and it was already getting a little late in the day for starting such a big adventure, but maybe Lupe could still climb Cathedral Mountain?

Only one person who uses Peakbagger.com had ever climbed Cathedral Mountain, and that had been more than 22 years ago.  Richard Carey had been there on 7-29-95.  Fortunately, Carey had written a concise trip report full of useful information.  Carey had mentioned a small pullout with room for only one or two cars at about milepost 168.5.  Nearing the area, SPHP slowed down to look for it.

SPHP didn’t see any small pullout, but there was a really large gravel pullout on the NW side of the Dalton Highway about where Carey had said to look.  Maybe things had changed in 22 years?  Certainly possible.  SPHP parked the G6.  The American Dingo shot out eager for action.  Things looked a bit iffy.  Cathedral Mountain was right across the Dalton Highway from here, but the sky overhead was looking mighty gray.

Cathedral Mountain from the Dalton Highway near milepost 168.5. Photo looks SE.

All was not gloom and doom, however.  A mix of blue sky and puffy clouds was off to the SW, and seemed to be heading this way.  Loop and SPHP were both in favor of taking a chance on Cathedral Mountain.  SPHP got everything ready, and the American Dingo set out on her next big adventure.  (1:56 PM, 53°F)

Water could be heard on the SE side of the Dalton Highway.  A stream was hidden over there in the forest.  By the looks of the terrain, the stream would pass under the highway a short distance back to the SW.  It would be nice to avoid a creek crossing.  Lupe followed the highway SW until she was past where the stream went under it, before turning S and plunging into the forest.

Loopster on the Dalton Highway somewhere near milepost 168.5. Photo looks SW.

Lupe immediately found herself in a densely packed spruce forest on thick, spongy tundra.  Tall, slender bushes were in the mix, too.  This was exciting stuff for the Carolina Dog!  Lupe ran sniffing and exploring, but was careful not to stray too far from SPHP.

Of course, the thick vegetation was still wet from last night’s rains and the recent shower in this area.  Before long, Lupe and SPHP were both soaking wet, too.  Not unexpected.  Onward!

Lupe was immediately impressed with the dense forest off the Dalton Highway. She ran this way and that, excitedly sniffing and exploring.

From the Dalton Highway, a high barren ridge had been visible to the S well above tree line.  That ridge appeared to be in the vicinity of Richard Carey’s successful line of ascent described in his trip report, so Loop needed to get up there.  The ridge couldn’t be seen from down in the dense forest, but Loop and SPHP headed in its general direction.

Before long, water could be heard again.  Another stream!  Lupe reached it, and found the stream wider and deeper than could be readily forded.  Both banks were lined with dense stands of tall bushes.  Just getting in or out of the stream was an issue, never mind across it.  No way!  Maybe if Loop continued upstream far enough there would be a better spot?  The stream might even bend off to the SW, in which case the Carolina Dog wouldn’t even need to cross it.

The terrain down by the stream was a difficult trek.  Too many bushes amid jumbled rocks.  Loop and SPHP turned E to climb onto a low ridge above the creek valley.  This ridge headed SE, which wasn’t the really the direction Lupe needed to go, but would be fine for a little way.  Climbing up onto and moving around on the ridge wasn’t all that easy, either.  Spongy tundra made each step more difficult.  While the spruce trees weren’t all that big, they were close together.

Lupe came to a few spots where the forest wasn’t so dense.  The high barren ridge she needed to get to could then be seen to the S.  Loop could also see farther up the creek valley.  The news wasn’t good.  The valley was turning SE instead of SW.  Sooner or later, Lupe was going to have to find a way across that darn stream.

A view of the ridge Lupe was trying to get to from a rare open spot in the forest. Photo looks S with help from the telephoto lens.
While SPHP fiddled around with maps worrying about streams and ridges and routes and terrain, Lupe was having a grand time in the forest on her first adventure N of the Arctic Circle since she became the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood!
Another view of the ridge Lupe was trying to get to (Center) from a little farther along in the forest. Lupe eventually was able to climb up the closer hill (L of Center), which led her to the E (L) end of the higher ridge. Photo looks S.

Lupe and SPHP continued SE gaining elevation gradually on the low ridge for a while longer.  Finally, the time came to see how much of a problem it was going to be to get across the creek up here.  Lupe went SSW, leaving the ridge to look for the stream.

The stream wasn’t far away.  This time the news was unexpectedly good.  The stream was rushing along, but much smaller up here, only 3 feet wide and not very deep.  Easy squeezy!  SPHP swung across it with the help of an overhanging branch.  Lupe simply leapt across.

One problem solved.  However, an hour had already shot by since leaving the Dalton Highway.  Puppy, ho!  Time to get up on that barren ridge.

Lupe reaches the stream again 0.5 mile upstream of where she had first come to it. The news was good this time. The stream was much smaller up here than it had been down below. Lupe could easily leap across it.

Once beyond the stream, Loop headed S gaining elevation.  The barren ridge she was aiming for was soon in sight ahead.  The climb got steadily steeper and steeper.  Progress seemed slow.

Another big hill was closer than the barren ridge Lupe was heading for.  It looked like it might connect to the barren ridge much higher up than where the Carolina Dog was now.  Maybe Loop should climb this hill?  Getting above all the trees, bushes, and spongy tundra would be a huge help.  Seemed to make sense.  Yeah, Loop was going to try this closer hill instead of trudging through this difficult stuff all the way to the base of the barren ridge.

The climb up the nearer hill was quite steep.  The trees soon thinned out, though scattered trees and plenty of bushes remained for a while.  The hill narrowed.  Higher up, Looper started coming to rock outcroppings.  The rock formations were small, only 10 or 20 feet high.  The American Dingo always found a way around them, though they sometimes slowed progress.  Before she’d climbed terribly far, Lupe was beginning to get views of the Koyukuk River.

Only partway up the first big hill Lupe climbed she started getting views of the Koyukuk River. Photo looks N.
Rain showers are in progress beyond the Koyukuk River. Photo looks NW.

After what seemed like a long climb, Lupe managed to reached the top of the hill.  She found that this wasn’t a separate hill at all.  Loop was on a small level ridge protruding N from the rest of Cathedral Mountain.  There were no trees here, although some bushes were around.  Most of the ridge was covered with tundra and small rock outcroppings.  Lupe had plenty of room to move around, and the views were the best yet.

Loop had expended so much energy having a blast down in the forest, that she was ready for a rest break.  SPHP concurred.

Lupe curls up for a rest upon reaching the ridgeline at the top of the first big hill she’d just climbed. Her peakbagging goal, the summit of Cathedral Mountain, is beyond her at Center. Photo looks E.
Lupe relaxes near the end of the small ridge. The Koyukuk River is in view. Photo looks N.
Koyukuk River from the far end of the ridge. The Dalton Highway is on the near side of the river. Photo looks N.

While Loop rested, SPHP studied the topo map and read Richard Carey’s trip report again.  Carey hadn’t mentioned anything about a stream crossing.  As soon as Lupe had come to the stream, SPHP had suspected that she hadn’t started from the exact same place as Carey.

The topo map concurred.  It seemed fairly certain Lupe had started out about a mile farther NE on the Dalton Highway than Carey had.  Maybe more like at milepost 169.5 than 168.5.  Eh, whatever.  Looper must have started from just N of the streams shown in Section 12, and had left the Dalton Highway between them.  If the American Dingo had only gone a little farther SW on the highway before leaving it, she would have completely avoided both streams.

This little ridge Lupe was on right now was between the “A” and “L” at the end of “Cathedral” on the map.  The barren ridge Lupe was trying to get to was Carey’s “small hill” in the 2,500 ft. contour ENE of High Point 2545.  Carey had passed a little S of this hill on his way E from the “low saddle”, which couldn’t be seen from here.  All Loopster had to do now was gain the remaining 200+ feet of elevation required to reach the top of the barren ridge.  She would then be in position to intercept Carey’s route the rest of the way.

Simple enough.  The small ridge Lupe was already on connected directly to the slope leading up to E end of the barren ridge.  Best get on with it.  It had taken SPHP two hours just to get this far, and it was still a long way to the top of Cathedral Mountain.  The weather might put an end to things at any time.  Loop had been lucky so far, but rain showers were always in sight not terribly far away.

The ridge Lupe is on leads straight to the E end of the barren ridge she has been trying to get to all this time (Center). The top of the barren ridge is 200+ feet of elevation gain from here. Photo looks SSW.

Reaching the top of the barren ridge seemed to require more like 250 feet of elevation gain than 200 feet.  The upper slope was surprisingly steep.  Lupe had no problems, but SPHP was grasping for anything at all to hang onto, which wasn’t much.  Nevertheless, both Loop and SPHP made it to the top.

For the first time, Lupe could now see territory S of Cathedral Mountain.  A check of the topo map matched up with what Loop was seeing exactly as expected.  No doubt at all where she was now.

Lupe finally reaches the top of the barren ridge. Both the true summit of Cathedral Mountain (Center) and the slightly lower N summit (L) are in sight. Photo looks E.
Having reached the top of the barren ridge, Lupe could now see territory on the other side of Cathedral Mountain. The Dalton Highway is in view passing through low ground dotted with small lakes. Lake 1035 is the larger lake on the L. Photo looks SW.
The “low saddle” Carey had gone through on his ascent is seen between Lupe and the ridge at Center, which is High Point 2545. Twelvemile Mountain (3,180 ft.) is the multi-peaked mountain seen faintly beyond High Point 2545. Photo looks WSW.

From the barren ridge, Lupe could now join up with Carey’s route by heading SE toward an upper saddle at 2,750+ feet elevation.  Lupe had a good view of this upper saddle, though the camera produced a lousy one due to moisture on the lens.  A brief rain shower was sweeping over the area as the Carolina Dog was about to continue on again.

The upper 2,750+ ft. saddle (Center) from the barren ridge. Not such a hot shot due to a rain shower in progress, but still shows the overall lay of the terrain quite well. Lupe was heading for this upper saddle next. Photo looks SE.

The rain shower didn’t last long and was of no consequence.  Lupe lost a bit of elevation leaving the barren ridge for the upper saddle, but was soon regaining it traversing a steep slope well below a rocky ridgeline.  The slope was surprisingly tough going – slanty with minor drop offs, spongy tundra, and lots of bushes.  Lupe finally climbed higher up on the slope close to the lower rocks, and things were a bit better up here.

Looking back on the way to the upper saddle. High Point 2545 is the hill L of Center. Beyond it and a little more to the L is Twelvemile Mountain (3,180 ft.). The barren ridge Lupe had just left is on the R. The low saddle Carey had crossed is at Center. Photo looks W.
Lupe approaches the upper saddle. The rain shower has moved on. Photo looks SE.
Looking back again from near the upper saddle. High Point 2545 is in the foreground at Center. The low saddle is next to it on the R. Twelvemile Mountain is in the distance beyond the Koyukuk River on the L. Photo looks W.

Lupe passed slightly above and to the N of the upper saddle.  She was now heading E on the S side of Cathedral Mountain.  Ahead was another even slightly higher saddle at 2,800+ feet elevation.  On the S side of this highest saddle, High Point 2955 was in view.

Lupe at the N end of the upper saddle. An even higher saddle at 2,800+ ft. elevation is in view on the R along with High Point 2955. Cathedral Mountain’s main E/W ridgeline is on the L. Photo looks SE.

From here, Carey had continued E staying somewhat below and to the S of Cathedral Mountain’s main ridgeline.  The top of the ridgeline was to be avoided, since it was so rocky and jagged.  Actually, the way SPHP read it, Carey had probably bypassed this upper saddle staying quite a bit higher and closer to the ridgeline than where Loop was now.

That didn’t matter.  Lupe could easily angle up nearer the ridgeline as she kept going E.  She headed toward a big rock fairly high on the slope N of the 2,800+ foot saddle.

From here Lupe would head for the highest big rock seen R of Center. Photo looks ESE.
Lupe reaches the big rock on the slope N of the highest 2,800+ ft. saddle. The 2,750+ ft. upper saddle is in view on the R. The low saddle Carey had come though is at far R well beyond it. Twelvemile Mountain is in the distance on the R. Photo looks WSW.

From the big rock, Lupe continued E, slowly gaining elevation.  At first, this route was pretty easy.  However, the slope kept steepening.  As the tundra thinned out, Loop was more and more frequently traversing loose scree slopes.

Lupe continues E on Cathedral Mountain’s S slope not too far below the ridgeline. It was still easy going along in here. Photo looks WNW.
Making progress. Cathedral Mountain’s SE ridge is now in view on the R. Photo looks E.
The slope kept getting steeper as Lupe proceeded E. Vegetation thinned out and Loop began encountering more scree. Photo looks E.

For quite a long way, Lupe could see part of Cathedral Mountain’s SE ridge ahead.  A long slope on this side of it slanted steeply up to the N leading to the still unseen summit.  If Lupe could get over to that slope, SPHP was pretty certain she stood a good chance of reaching Cathedral Mountain’s summit, provided it could be reached without any technical climbing.  Carey hadn’t mentioned any.

However, it was still in question whether or not it would be possible to get over there.  The slope Loop was on kept getting steeper, and SPHP feared the Carolina Dog was going to come to an impassable point.  The views immediately below Lupe’s position were becoming incredible, and a bit intimidating.  SPHP quit looking down.

The mountain presented a series of minor “horizons” coming down the S slope that Lupe couldn’t see beyond until she got to them.  One by one she crossed them going E, but another always appeared a little farther on.  SPHP kept wondering if Loop was too high or low on the mountain?  The answer wasn’t obvious.  The Carolina Dog just kept going.

Finally, a much larger ragged line of rock appeared extending down the S slope from Cathedral Mountain’s main ridgeline.  What would Lupe find there?  Would she be able to get beyond it?  More to the point, could SPHP get beyond it?  Being able to turn that corner was critical to success.  Carey had done it, but he had genuine mountaineering experience.

Lupe needed to reach the greenish slope below Cathedral Mountain’s SE ridge seen on the R. That slope goes N (L) right up to the summit. Carey had done it, but he had real mountaineering experience. The line of rocks coming down from the ridgeline ahead on the L made it questionable whether SPHP could get over there. Photo looks ENE.
Lupe was feeling confident, even if SPHP had doubts. Just have to be able to turn this last corner! Photo looks ENE.

About the time Lupe reached the rocky spine coming down from the main ridgeline, a second rain shower appeared heading straight this way.  SPHP donned the rain poncho.  Once again, Lupe got wet, SPHP didn’t, and the shower passed by fairly quickly without putting a serious damper on things.

A second rain shower swept over Loop and SPHP at the hardest part of the climb up Cathedral Mountain, but fortunately didn’t last long before sailing away. Photo looks back to the SW.

Loop and SPHP had to down climb a bit to get around the rocky spine, but succeeded in getting by it. The worst part of the trek to Cathedral Mountain’s summit was now behind the American Dingo!  If the summit wasn’t technical, she was going to get there.  That wouldn’t be known until she climbed hundreds of feet up the steep scree slope ahead.

After getting by the rocky spine, Lupe still faced a long steep climb up to the ridgeline where she expected to find Cathedral Mountain’s summit. Photo looks NE.

Up, up, up!  Steep.  Real steep, but Lupe was finally approaching the ridgeline.  Big rock formations sat atop much of it, but Lupe could keep progressing E easily enough staying a bit below them.  The summit couldn’t be too far away!

After a long climb up the really steep scree slope, Lupe sits among rocks only slightly below Cathedral Mountain’s main E/W ridgeline. The summit is just beyond the high point in sunshine on the R. Photo looks ENE.
Near the top of the ridge not too far W of the summit. Lupe had come up the slope on the L. Photo looks WSW.
A look at Cathedral Mountain’s SE ridge. Photo looks ESE.

A little W of the mountain’s true summit, Lupe reached the top of the main E/W ridgeline.  Now she could see in almost every direction.  The views were stupendous!  So, so beautiful!

Right up on top of the main E/W ridge now. Photo looks WSW.
A rain shower sweeps through territory between Twelvemile Mountain (3,180 ft.) (L) and the Koyukuk River. Photo looks W.
Cathedral Mountain’s N summit from the main E/W ridgeline. Photo looks NNE.
The Koyukuk River and Cathedral Mountain’s slightly lower N summit. Photo looks N.

An easy stroll E along the main ridgeline brought Lupe to the summit of Cathedral Mountain.  Here she found two 10 foot high knobs of rock.  They were separated by 12 to 15 feet of level ground covered with vegetation.  The E knob appeared clearly higher by a foot or two.  Neither of the knobs was very large on top, but there was room for Loop to sit or stand comfortably.

Lupe scrambled up onto the higher E knob first.  She found a small cairn on top protecting two tin cans that were painted red.  The larger can was turned upside down over the smaller one to shield it from the weather.  The American Dingo had made it!  Despite SPHP’s fears and doubts near the end of the journey, she sat calmly and confidently at the true summit of Cathedral Mountain (3,350 ft.)!

Lupe sits by the cairn at the true summit of Cathedral Mountain! Photo looks ENE.
Loop on top of Cathedral Mountain. The red tin can protecting a smaller one inside containing a registry is in view as Loop found it. Photo looks ENE.
Cathedral Mountain was the first mountain N of the Arctic Circle that Lupe climbed after becoming the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood by climbing AB Mountain (5,036 ft.) near Skagway 10 days ago. Photo looks ENE.

So was there a registry inside the smaller tin can?  Yes, there was!  Inside was a plastic bag containing a pencil and a small notebook serving as a registry.  A surprising number of entries were contained in it.  Far more people had been up on Cathedral Mountain than SPHP would ever have expected.

Inside the front cover was something amazing.  The notebook was in such good condition, it was hard to believe it was true.  Richard Carey himself had brought this very notebook to the top of Cathedral Mountain more than 22 years ago!  His was the first entry!

The notebook serving as a registry was in such great condition it was hard to believe Richard Carey had placed it up here more than 22 years ago. Inside the front cover, his was the very first entry.

SPHP entered Lupe’s name in the registry to make her ascent official.  Lupe received lots of praise for her valiant efforts to get here, and SPHP shook her sweet paw in congratulations.  SPHP recited how Cathedral Mountain was her 3rd summit ever N of the Arctic Circle and 1st of 2017, what memorable adventures each ascent had been, and how splendid each peak was!

Loop was pretty happy with all the richly deserved attention.  Of course, the notebook and pencil went back in the plastic bag and inside the little red tin can.  Everything got put back exactly as Lupe had found it.

Then, even though the day was getting so late it made SPHP nervous considering how long it had taken to get here, it was time to relax a bit up on Cathedral Mountain.  Picture time!  These were views Loop and SPHP would never want to forget.

Cathedral Mountain’s N summit with the Koyukuk River in the background. Photo looks NNE.
A rain shower sweeps over the Koyukuk River valley. Photo looks NNW.
Looking down on High Point 2955 in the foreground. Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.
Cathedral Mountain’s SE ridge is on the R in shadow. Photo looks ESE.
Loopster up on the slightly lower W knob in competition for the title of true summit of Cathedral Mountain. Photo looks WSW.
On the W knob, only a foot or two lower than the true summit. Photo looks W.
Evening sunlight filters through clouds and rain showers down onto the Koyukuk River. Photo looks NW.
Looking NNE farther up the Koyukuk River valley. Cathedral Mountain’s N summit is in the foreground. Photo taken with lots of help from the telephoto lens.
Looking WSW over part of Cathedral Mountain’s main E/W ridge with lots of help from the telephoto lens.
Twelvemile Mountain (3,180 ft.) (Center) in evening sunlight. Photo looks W.

After nearly 40 minutes at the top of Cathedral Mountain, the sad moment of departure drew near.  What a magnificent peak!  Lupe climbed up on top of the summit’s W knob one more time.

Before departing, Lupe scrambled up on the W knob one more time. Photo looks E.
Loop’s last moments atop Cathedral Mountain. Photo looks E.

The return trip was marvelous!  It had seemed to SPHP that maybe Loop had been too low for too long on the ascent.  At times, things had looked easier higher up.  Of course, there was a lot of rock along the top of the ridgeline.  Maybe it wasn’t possible to stay so high, but on the way back, Loopster was going to try.

Staying high worked.  This was a faster route with amazing views.  Lupe was eventually forced down off the ridgeline, but not until she was getting close to the highest saddle N of High Point 2955.

Heading down, but staying high along the main ridgeline as long as possible. This was a better route than the way Lupe had come up. Twelvemile Mountain is on the R. Photo looks WSW.
Loop almost always had to stay on the S side of the main E/W ridgeline when forced to make a choice. The N side was usually cliffy. That wasn’t always true. Here she’s on the N side of the mountain with a fantastic view of the Koyukuk River. Photo looks N.
Done with the main ridge and descending to the highest saddle. High Point 2955 is on the L. Photo looks SW with lots of help from the telephoto lens.
Lupe explores the highest saddle. Photo looks WSW.

Instead of returning to the top of the barren ridge on the way back, Lupe skirted it to the S as Richard Carey had done.  She passed over the low saddle NE of High Point 2545 retracing Carey’s route.  She continued W along the mountainside a little beyond the saddle before turning N and descending between two rounded bald hills.

Lupe with a grand view of the Koyukuk River from the W end of the low saddle Richard Carey had crossed N of High Point 2545. Photo looks N.

Lupe’s route below the bald hills was steep, but was full of thick tundra, which made it soft and easy.  Going up here would have been tough, but Loop made rapid progress down the slope.  She never did have to cross a stream, although she did cross a long stretch of boggy terrain on a much more gentle slope nearing the Dalton Highway.

The light was almost gone by the time Lupe made it back to the Dalton Highway.  A 0.25 mile gradual uphill trek remained to Alpo and a warm blankie inside the G6.  What a wonderful day Cathedral Mountain had been!  (11:00 PM)

The Koyukuk River from the low saddle near day’s end, Cathedral Mountain, Brooks Range, Alaska 8-17-17

Want more Lupe adventures?  Choose from Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska Adventure IndexDingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index.  Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Dillon Mountain, Brooks Range, Alaska (8-15-16)

Day 17 of Lupe’s Summer of 2016 Dingo Vacation to the Canadian Rockies, Yukon & Alaska.

Was it foggy?  No, only condensation inside the G6.  Stepping outside, the sky was overcast.  No sunshine at all, but the clouds were pretty high.  Most of the mountaintops were in view.  Hopefully, the clouds would burn off as the day went on.

Yesterday’s feeble attempt to climb Dillon Mountain had ended before Lupe even gained any elevation.  It was SPHP’s fault.  SPHP had fallen into a blueberry trap.  All ambition had drained away as SPHP consumed blueberries, and Lupe dozed on the soft, spongy tundra.  The whole attempt had been doomed from the start, anyway.  The previous day’s climb of Sukakpak had sapped both Lupe’s and SPHP’s energy.

Today, though, this was it.  Now or never.  Lupe and SPHP left the G6 (9:41 AM, 57°F) parked N of milepost 207 along the Dalton Highway, and headed S.  Lupe followed a faint road through the forest, and then animal trails to the edge of the swamp.  Instead of trying to go SE through all those terrible tussocks again, this time Lupe went SW to the river.

Following the Bettles River S, Lupe made much faster progress than yesterday.  Part of the time it was possible to travel over exposed parts of the riverbed.  Other times, the river forced Lupe and SPHP up onto the E bank, where there were usually trails to follow.  Lupe was gaining on her first objective, a low saddle between Dillon Mountain and High Point 2003.

Looking SE along the Bettles River toward High Point 2003, the low hill at center. The S edge of Dillon Mountain is seen on the L. Lupe's first objective was the saddle between them.
Looking SE along the Bettles River toward High Point 2003, the low hill at center. The S edge of Dillon Mountain is seen on the L. Lupe’s first objective was the saddle between them.

Lupe turned SE, leaving the Bettles River when she got close to High Point 2003.  Lupe and SPHP crossed a lot of spongy ground on the way up to the saddle between High Point 2003 and Dillon Mountain.  Despite occasional wet areas with annoying tussocks, Lupe had avoided nearly all of the difficult tussock-infested swamp NE of the river.

Lupe on the N slope of High Point 2003(R). Much of the saddle area toward Dillon Mountain(L) is in view ahead. Photo looks E toward the end of Dillon Mountain's S ridge.
Lupe on the N slope of High Point 2003(R). Much of the saddle area toward Dillon Mountain(L) is in view ahead. Photo looks E toward the end of Dillon Mountain’s S ridge.

As a guide, Lupe and SPHP were using a copy of a Peakbagger.com trip report on Dillon Mountain (4,820 ft.) written by Richard Carey.  Carey, a highly experienced mountaineer, was the only Peakbagger.com account holder ever to have reported climbing Dillon Mountain.  Carey had climbed the mountain more than 21 years ago on August 4, 1995.

Carey’s trip report mentioned an old road in the saddle, but Lupe did not come to it.  Lupe and SPHP were staying on the S side of the saddle close to High Point 2003.  Maybe it was more toward the other side of the saddle, closer to Dillon Mountain?  Or maybe 21 harsh Arctic winters had obliterated the old road?

The ground was spongy with tundra moss, but otherwise travel wasn’t difficult through the saddle area.  Lupe and SPHP gave up on finding the old road, instead following animal trails that Lupe kept coming across.  According to Carey, the next objective was to reach Dillon Mountain’s S ridge, which was still a mile to the E.

As Lupe continued SE beyond High Point 2003, she came to a wide grassy area free of the tall dense bushes that grew nearby.  During wetter periods, the entire grassy area might well be a fairly large pond, but only a remnant pond was here today.  The grassy area was easy traveling.  Lupe and SPHP went along its NE edge.

Lupe beyond High Point 2003(L) near the E end of the grassy area. Photo looks WNW.
Lupe beyond High Point 2003(L) near the E end of the grassy area. Photo looks WNW.

Lupe left the grassy area and High Point 2003 behind, re-entering the forest.  She angled E, toward Dillon Mountain, crossing the saddle to avoid losing elevation.  Soon she started a moderate, steady ascent traversing Dillon’s lower slopes.

Carey advised getting up onto Dillon Mountain’s S ridge, but not until beyond the steep eroded cliffs on the upper portion of the ridge. A glance at the mountain made it easy to see why.

High, steep eroded cliffs along the upper S ridge(R) of Dillon Mountain. Even without Richard Carey's sound advice, Lupe and SPHP would have avoided any attempt from this direction. Photo looks N.
High, steep eroded cliffs along the upper S ridge(R) of Dillon Mountain. Even without Richard Carey’s sound advice, Lupe and SPHP would have avoided any attempt from this direction. Photo looks N.

It wasn’t clear exactly how far Lupe needed to go before attempting to climb up onto the huge S ridge.  Lupe and SPHP simply pressed on toward the lower end of the ridge looking for any promising way up.

In the forest, Lupe crossed three boulder fields left by landslides.  The first one was small.  The next two, considerably larger.  When Lupe reached the third boulder field, a forested ramp was visible on the far side.

Lupe reaches the third boulder field she crossed. The forested ramp she would climb to reach the S ridge starts almost directly above her, joining the main ridge toward the upper left. Photo looks ENE.

Lupe crossed the boulder field, continuing on to the base of the forested ramp.  The ramp was quite steep and fairly narrow, but Lupe began the ascent.  Trees and bushes made some parts of the climb annoyingly slow for SPHP, but there was nothing new about that.

About halfway up, water was dripping from the rock wall next to the ramp.  By now, it was sunny and warm, the clouds having dissipated somewhat.  Lupe seemed to like sitting in the cold dripping water.  SPHP immediately dubbed this place the “Dingo Shower”.

Lupe at the lightly dripping “Dingo Shower” on her way up the steep ramp to the S ridge. The water dripped so slowly, it didn’t show up well in this photo.

Lupe and SPHP made it to the top of the ramp.  There wasn’t really any clear spot where Lupe gained the S ridgeline.  Instead, she kept coming to and climbing up a series of benches.  All these benches were forested, relatively steep, and separated by stretches of even steeper ground.

The climb went on and on.  Lupe gained lots of elevation.  SPHP kept trying to lead Lupe toward the NE to see what was on the other side of the ridge, but the ridge was very broad.  For a long time there was no open view.  Eventually, though, the trees began to thin out.

Finally, Lupe made it above tree line.  A steep, open slope continued relentlessly higher.  Looking E toward Wiehl Mountain, SPHP could see Lupe must still have a big climb ahead.  Wiehl Mountain still looked much higher than where Lupe was.

Lupe above tree line, somewhere on Dillon Mountain's S ridge. Photo looks NNE.
Lupe above tree line, somewhere on Dillon Mountain’s S ridge. Photo looks NNE.
Wiehl Mountain from the S ridge of Dillon. Lupe still had a considerable climb ahead of her, since the highest part of Wiehl Mountain shown here is only about 300 feet higher than Dillon. The true summit of Wiehl Mountain is higher yet, but off the R edge of this photo. Photo looks E.
Wiehl Mountain from the S ridge of Dillon. Lupe still had a considerable climb ahead of her, since the highest part of Wiehl Mountain shown here is only about 300 feet higher than Dillon. The true summit of Wiehl Mountain is higher yet, but off the R edge of this photo. Photo looks E.

Lupe climbed and climbed.  SPHP started to become concerned.  Carey had warned in his trip report that the S ridge was complex.  About 4 uplifted bands of rock run E/W across the main S ridge.  Carey said they were more easily crossed lower down on the E side.

Lupe was getting mighty high up.  Although SPHP had been trying to head NE, the S ridge was very broad.  As far as SPHP could tell, Lupe hadn’t gotten around any uplifted rock bands yet.  Fear grew that Lupe was going to arrive up on some kind of dangerous pinnacle with no way forward.

Lupe still on her way up the steep S ridge. The Bettles River(L) is seen far below. Photo looks SSE.
Lupe still on her way up the steep S ridge. The Bettles River(L) is seen far below. Photo looks SSE.

At last, a little tor appeared high above Lupe, perched up at the end of the long slope.  As Lupe worked her way up to it, SPHP wondered if it was the “Tor of Glad Tidings” or the “Tor of Doom”?  The answer would be clear soon.

The little pinnacle of rock (R of Center) perched at the top of the long slope. Was it the Tor of Glad Tidings or the Tor of Doom? Photo looks N.
The little pinnacle of rock (R of Center) perched at the top of the long slope. Was it the Tor of Glad Tidings or the Tor of Doom? Photo looks N.

Lupe reached a shallow saddle at the top of the slope.  SPHP’s heart sank.  It was the Tor of Doom!  Some sort of cliff was almost certainly just out of view beyond it.

The summit of Dillon Mountain could be seen ahead, still many hundreds of feet higher, at the end of the long, jagged S ridge.  SPHP had made the fatal mistake, warned against by Carey, and led Lupe straight on up the S ridge to the uplifted rock bands.

Gah!  How sickening!  Was this defeat?  How was Lupe ever going to get to the summit?  Going all that way back down to try again farther E was unthinkable.  Just getting this far had sucked up so much energy and time!

Lupe near the Tor of Doom(R). The summit of Dillon Mountain was in view, still many hundreds of feet higher, beyond the jagged uplifted rock bands of the S ridge. Photo looks N.
Lupe near the Tor of Doom(R). The summit of Dillon Mountain was in view, still many hundreds of feet higher, beyond the jagged uplifted rock bands of the S ridge. Photo looks N.

There was a rounded flat area to the NE, a little higher than the Tor of Doom.  Glumly, SPHP climbed up there to take a look around.  If nothing else, it was time to take a few photos of how far Lupe had made it.  Lupe followed along as happy as a clam.

Sure enough, there was a cliff directly ahead.  It wasn’t all that high, maybe 20 feet?  Didn’t matter.  No way was SPHP going to attempt to navigate it, or let Lupe get hurt trying it either.  Even if Lupe could get past this cliff, it looked like a series of cliffs continued along the ridge.  SPHP tried to figure out where Lupe was on the topo map.  Around 700 feet below the summit seemed likely.

Dang, Carey!  Why did he have to be so right?

Well, because he’s an extraordinarily experienced mountaineer!  Over 2,600 ascents logged on Peakbagger.com on 6 continents around the world!  His top 10 ascents are all over 15,000 feet, the top 2 over 20,000 feet.  You did notice that, didn’t you, SPHP?

Oh, thank you so very much Looper!  And I’m just a foolish day hiker way out of my league.  I get it, and it’s plainly hard to deny given where we are right this very minute!

No need to get sore about it, SPHP, you asked.  I still love you, and this is a fabulous spot.  Look at the views!  Aren’t you all about the views?  What’s wrong with this?  What a glorious place!

You’re right, of course.  And I still love you, too Loop, so very much.  The views are fabulous, and we are extraordinarily lucky to be here.  The only thing wrong about this place is it’s not the summit, and there doesn’t appear to be a way to it without going way, way back down the mountain.  There’s not enough time to do that, even if I had the energy.  I thought we were going to make it.  Look over there, the summit’s not all that much higher than where we are now, not compared to how far you’ve already come!  Anyway, you’re right, picture time.  We’ll take a break and think about what to do next.  Maybe we’ll come up with something.

Why hadn’t SPHP thought this all through better when clearly warned?  Nothing to be done about it now.  Take those pictures.  Lupe had certainly made it to a dramatic and beautiful spot.

Lupe on the rounded high spot even higher than the Tor of Doom. Ahead lies the summit of Dillon Mountain, but a few feet beyond Lupe is an unseen cliff. Photo looks N.
Looking SW toward Sukakpak Mountain (4,459 ft.) in the background. In the foreground on the L is one of the jagged cliffs of Dillon's S ridge.
Looking SW toward Sukakpak Mountain (4,459 ft.) in the background. In the foreground on the L is one of the jagged cliffs of Dillon’s S ridge.
Lupe was tantalizingly close, but Carey's uplifted rock bands along the S ridge posed a seemingly unsurmountable challenge to Lupe and SPHP without going way back down the mountain to try again farther E, as Carey recommended all along. Photo looks N.
Lupe was tantalizingly close, but Carey’s uplifted rock bands along the S ridge posed a seemingly unsurmountable challenge to Lupe and SPHP without going way back down the mountain to try again farther E, as Carey recommended all along. Photo looks N.
At first, SPHP thought the peak on the R was a separate mountain, but soon realized it was almost certainly High Point 4228 along Dillon's E ridge. Lupe seemed to be 100 feet lower, which would have placed her still 700 feet below Dillon's summit. Photo looks NE.
At first, SPHP thought the peak on the R was a separate mountain, but soon realized it was almost certainly High Point 4228 along Dillon’s E ridge. Lupe seemed to be 100 feet lower, which would have placed her still 700 feet below Dillon’s summit. Photo looks NE.
Looking SE toward the true summit of 5,765 ft. Wiehl Mountain.
Looking SE toward the true summit of 5,765 ft. Wiehl Mountain.
The Bettles River is seen below on the L flowing toward its confluence with the Dietrich River (unseen) to form the Middle Fork of the Koyukuk River seen at upper L. Photo looks WSW.
The Bettles River is seen below on the L flowing toward its confluence with the Dietrich River (unseen) to form the Middle Fork of the Koyukuk River seen at upper L. Photo looks WSW.

Hey, wait a minute!  While taking the last photo, SPHP noticed a wide ledge of relatively level grassy ground in an unexpected direction.  It was close by to the SW, only a little below the cliff where Lupe and SPHP were standing.  Was there a way down to it?  Did it lead anywhere?

Lupe went back down to the small saddle below the Tor of Doom.  SPHP had thought there was nothing but a fearsome cliff beyond the saddle.  Getting closer to the other side, there was a huge cliff, but there was also a rocky chute leading directly down to the grassy ledge.  The ledge appeared to go up and around the 20 foot cliff Lupe and SPHP hadn’t been able to get beyond!

Looper!  It’s your Luck of the Dingo again!  Looks like we can at least make it to the next uplifted band of rock.  Come, on!

Lupe was already leading the way.  SPHP picked a way down the steep, rocky slope.  Soon Lupe stood on top of the next band of rock.  Once again, there appeared to be no way forward along the ridge, but at least Lupe was past the first cliff now!

Looking S from the top of the 2nd band of rocks back toward the low cliff(L) that had stymied Lupe and SPHP at the 1st band for a while. That 1st cliff wasn't all 20 feet high, after all. Parts of it were only 10 or 12 feet high. The low cliff still would have forced Lupe and SPHP a long way back down the mountain, if it hadn't been for the short, steep, rocky chute which led down to the grassy area below. The chute is a little hard to pick out, but is near the center of this photo.
Looking S from the top of the 2nd band of rocks back toward the low cliff(L) that had stymied Lupe and SPHP at the 1st band for a while. That 1st cliff wasn’t all 20 feet high, after all. Parts of it were only 10 or 12 feet high. The low cliff still would have forced Lupe and SPHP a long way back down the mountain, if it hadn’t been for the short, steep, rocky chute which led down to the grassy area below. The chute is a little hard to pick out, but is near the center of this photo.
Well, SPHP, the good news is we are a little higher and closer than before. The bad news is there are more rock bands and cliffs ahead. By the way, suddenly the weather's not looking so hot, either. Now what?
Well, SPHP, the good news is we are a little higher and closer than before. The bad news is there are more rock bands and cliffs ahead. By the way, suddenly the weather’s not looking so hot, either. Now what?

On top of the second rock band, Lupe was a little higher than before, and a little closer to the summit.  The view ahead was still disconcerting.  More rock bands and more cliffs.  They looked impassable.  Now what, indeed?

Looking around, it appeared that Lupe might be able to get by this 2nd cliff by following the rock band she was on down to the SE.  About 150 feet lower, the rock band looked like it broke up enough to destroy the cliff’s continuity.  Lupe should be able to get around it down there.  Only 150 feet of elevation loss was tolerable, but once she was beyond the 2nd rock band, then what?

The valley between the main S and E ridges was in view.  Off to the NNE, SPHP could see sort of a gap in one of the biggest bands of rock sloping down the mountain.  The gap was at a point not too far below Lupe’s current elevation.  If she could get around this 2nd cliff, and make the traverse over to and through that gap, she would be well on her way to the middle of the SE valley.  The SE valley was very steep, but maybe Lupe could climb straight up it?

Well, Loopster, that valley doesn’t look any worse than Decoeli (7,650 ft.), and you made it up that.  Let’s see if we can get over there.

150 feet of elevation loss to get around the 2nd cliff turned out to be more like 300 feet.  Lupe was 1,000 feet below the summit again, but at least she could resume climbing slowly once more, while angling toward the gap.  More importantly, by staying well below the S ridgeline as Carey had advised, Lupe could hopefully bypass any more difficulties with cliffs and rock bands.

The summit of Dillon Mountain disappeared from view.  A cloud passed over, sprinkling rain.  SPHP called a halt to put on an old blue plastic rain poncho.  It wasn’t very good, but helped some.

That’s your emergency rain gear, SPHP?  You look like the Cookie Monster!

Yeah, yeah, let’s go, Dingo!

The plan worked!  Lupe and the Cookie Monster made it to the gap and beyond.  Blue sky reappeared.  The blue rain poncho went back in the pack.  Lupe reached the middle of the SE valley.  SPHP began plodding slowly straight up the steep slope.  The climb was easiest where there was a little heather, and not just loose rocks.  Fortunately, for a while, there were plenty of heather routes to follow.

Way down below, something was moving!  A small herd of mountain goats was running single file across the valley.  They disappeared over one of the rock bands of the S ridge.

Lupe heads for the SE valley. Photo looks NNW.
Lupe heads for the SE valley. Photo looks NNW.
Lupe reaches the middle of the SE valley. The summit is still way, way up there! Photo looks NW.
Mountain goats ran single file across the SE valley far below. They soon disappeared over one of the rock bands of the S ridge. Photo taken using the telephoto lens.
Mountain goats ran single file across the SE valley far below. They soon disappeared over one of the rock bands of the S ridge. Photo taken using the telephoto lens.

The steep climb seemed endless.  Lupe became bored with SPHP’s dreadfully slow pace.  She began roaming at will all over the vast SE valley, as if she was a mountain goat herself.  She often went out of SPHP’s line of sight, reappearing suddenly hundreds of feet above or below.  She returned frequently to check on SPHP’s snail-paced progress.

The energy Lupe displayed was astounding!  Once, SPHP became worried.  Lupe couldn’t be spotted anywhere.  SPHP called and called her.  In a couple of minutes, a tiny American Dingo appeared at least 500 feet down the mountain, racing practically straight up.  It only took her two minutes to reach SPHP, arriving breathless and panting like a steam engine.

Loopster!  That was incredible!  You could be at the summit in 3 minutes, couldn’t you?  Take it a little easy, though, and stay closer.  You’re going to bust a lung doing that!

Bit by bit, the summit was getting closer.  SPHP was almost certain Lupe was going to reach the top of Dillon Mountain.  Unfortunately, the weather had been deteriorating again for some time.  Blue sky was losing the battle against the spreading gray clouds.

Gray clouds spread across the sky as Lupe and SPHP progressed up the very steep SE valley. Wiehl Mountain(L) is disappearing from view, but the Bettles River can still be seen. Photo looks SE.
Gray clouds spread across the sky as Lupe and SPHP progressed up the very steep SE valley. Wiehl Mountain(L) is disappearing from view, but the Bettles River can still be seen. Photo looks SE.
Lupe was having a grand time roaming the SE valley while climbing Dillon Mountain. Although SPHP was gradually getting closer to the summit, clouds kept obscuring it. Photo looks NW.
Lupe was having a grand time roaming the SE valley while climbing Dillon Mountain. Although SPHP was gradually getting closer to the summit, clouds kept obscuring it. Photo looks NW.

300 or 400 feet below the summit, it started raining again.  Lupe was so close to success, there was no way she was turning back, even if there wouldn’t be anything to see except fog.  Sometimes there were still breaks in the clouds.  SPHP continued to hope Lupe would have some kind of a view.

Since it wasn’t raining hard, and the showers were intermittent, SPHP was slow to put the Cookie Monster costume back on again.  Another mistake.  SPHP wound up getting fairly wet.  Should have done it earlier.  The Cookie Monster costume didn’t come off again the rest of the day.  Lupe’s fur was all soaking wet and cold to the touch, but she wasn’t shivering at all.  She still seemed to be in great spirits.

The climb got tougher.  Heather was virtually non-existent.   Lupe and SPHP climbed among loose, wet, gray rocks.  There were bigger, more stable rock formations over toward the E ridge.  SPHP worked over that way.  The climb remained very steep.  Rocks were sliding and tumbling with every step.

Carey had suggested finishing the climb up on the upper E ridge, which leads directly to the summit.  However, it looked like pretty rough going on top of the ragged ridgeline.  SPHP stayed just below the firm rock formations, using those rocks for assistance.

Not too much farther to go! Photo looks W from a little below the top of the ragged E ridge.
Not too much farther to go! Photo looks W from a little below the top of the ragged E ridge.

Perhaps 200 feet below the summit, Lupe reached a sizable, nearly level area with a thin covering of heather right up on top of the E ridge.  As expected, the ridge proved too rough to stay up on it.  The climb got even steeper, as Lupe and SPHP continued up a little S and below the ridgeline during frequent rain showers.

Lupe returned to the top of the E ridge again above a large rock formation.  She was on another fairly roomy level spot.  There was a patch of heather, but this level area was mostly covered with sand.  A steep slope of sand and small rocks led up to a small saddle between two rock outcroppings about 30 feet higher up.  The summit!  Was it true?!  If so, Lupe was almost there!

Lupe on the final, short sandy slope to the summit. Photo looks W.

A minute or two later, Lupe was there, perched high on Dillon Mountain right next to the summit cairn!  Lupe received exultant congratulations and praise from SPHP, who shook her expert mountain-climbing front paws enthusiastically.  The luck and persistence of the Dingo had prevailed!

Lupe perched next to the summit cairn on Dillon Mountain, Brooks Range, Alaska (8-15-16). Photo looks WNW.
Lupe perched next to the summit cairn on Dillon Mountain, Brooks Range, Alaska (8-15-16). Photo looks WNW.
As far as SPHP knows, Dillon Mountain is the northernmost peak any Carolina Dog has ever been seen on.
As far as SPHP knows, Dillon Mountain is the northernmost peak any Carolina Dog has ever been seen on.

It wasn’t raining when Lupe reached the top of Dillon Mountain.  The clouds had lifted somewhat, too.  The views, although not nearly as clear as they had been 2 days earlier on nearby Sukakpak Mountain, were still incredible and much better than SPHP had expected.

The Dietrich River, Dalton Highway and even the Alaskan oil pipeline are seen far below. Photo looks NNW.
The Dietrich River, Dalton Highway and even the Alaskan oil pipeline are seen far below. Photo looks NNW.
The 50 foot long summit area on Dillon Mountain featured two rocky high points separated by a saddle that wasn't much lower than either one. The N high point where the summit cairn sat was only moderately higher than the S high point pictured here. Photo looks S.
The 50 foot long summit area on Dillon Mountain featured two rocky high points separated by a saddle that wasn’t much lower than either one. The N high point where the summit cairn sat was only moderately higher than the S high point pictured here. Photo looks S.
Looking down the sandy slope at the last nearly level spot Lupe had reached along the E ridge on the way up. Wiehl Mountain(R) is seen across the valley. Photo looks ESE.
Looking down the sandy slope at the last nearly level spot Lupe had reached along the E ridge on the way up. Wiehl Mountain(R) is seen across the valley. Photo looks ESE.
The small prominence seen R of Center is part of the start of the S ridge. Wiehl Mountain(L) again in the background. Photo looks SE.
The small prominence seen R of Center is part of the start of the S ridge. Wiehl Mountain(L) again in the background. Photo looks SE.

Tremendous cliffs were in every direction, except toward the steep valley to the SE where Lupe and SPHP had come up.  While SPHP took photos, Lupe nestled down in a relatively sheltered spot among the rocks and sand in the saddle between the N and S high points.  A gigantic cliff was only a couple feet away.

Our soggy Carolina Dog heroine tries to nestle on rocks and sand in the only slightly lower saddle between the N and S high points. A gigantic cliff is only a couple feet beyond her. Photo looks W.
Our soggy Carolina Dog heroine tries to nestle on rocks and sand in the only slightly lower saddle between the N and S high points. A gigantic cliff is only a couple feet beyond her. Photo looks W.
Comfy! Hmm, maybe not so much, but it will have to do. Photo looks W.
Comfy! Hmm, maybe not so much, but it will have to do. Photo looks W.
Sukakpak Mountain, which Lupe had climbed only 2 days ago. Photo looks SSW.
Sukakpak Mountain, which Lupe had climbed only 2 days ago. Photo looks SSW.
Looking down the infamous jagged S ridge. Bettles River below. Photo looks SSE.
Looking down the infamous jagged S ridge. Bettles River below. Photo looks SSE.

SPHP realized Lupe wouldn’t be able to spend much time up on Dillon Mountain.  Fog and rain showers were visible in many directions.  Nearly all distant mountains were obscured by clouds.  Rain could start in again any time.

It was also getting late in the day.  Although Lupe had demonstrated that she could have made the entire round trip to Dillon Mountain and back in only an hour or two, dawdling around waiting for SPHP to drag up the mountain had taken nearly forever!

A patch of blue sky appears above the Dietrich River. It sill looked like there could be more rain coming at almost any time. Photo looks NNW.
A patch of blue sky appears above the Dietrich River. It sill looked like there could be more rain coming at almost any time. Photo looks NNW.

Roughly 20 minutes after Lupe arrived at the summit, the rain hit again.  Most definitely time to go!  Lupe and SPHP were already underway, when suddenly there came a single loud peal of thunder.  Lupe never heard another one, nor did she see any lightning, but the thunder lit whatever fire could be lit under SPHP.  From then on, it was down the mountain, as fast as possible.

As fast as possible wasn’t fast at all.  Going down the super steep slope was harder and slower than climbing it had been.  Rocks slid out from underfoot, tumbling hundreds of feet.  It rained often, sometimes rather hard.  Poor Lupe was absolutely drenched.  When she was finally far enough down the mountain so there was some vegetation, she tried desperately to dry herself off on the heather.  It didn’t work.  Everything was soaking wet.

There was no point in trying to go back to the S ridge where Lupe had left it.  The sun would be down soon.  SPHP didn’t think it would be possible in fading light to find the steep forested ramp where the Dingo Shower was in order to get down off the ridge.  The plan was to just head straight on down the SE valley, then follow whatever river was at the bottom around the S end of the mountain.

Down, down, down!   Lupe reached a waterfall in the SE valley.  Below it, the valley was narrow and steep on both sides.  The terrain forced Lupe and SPHP down onto the valley floor, which continued to lose elevation rapidly.  Fortunately, the stream was underground nearly all the time.

Lupe below the waterfall in the SE valley. She had already lost a tremendous amount of elevation.

Below the waterfall, Lupe continued to lose lots of elevation.  Finally, SPHP grew worried.  Hours had gone by since leaving the summit.  The sun must be down by now.  The end of the SE valley looked like it was still a long way off.  There was almost certainly a river of some sort at the bottom.  What if it went through a narrow chasm boxed in by cliffs?  Lupe and SPHP would be stuck out here all night.

That didn’t sound good at all.  SPHP had come prepared only for a day hike.  No tent or supplies.  SPHP had matches, but there was no way to start a fire with everything totally drenched, and more rain coming.  Other than cold hands, SPHP was fine.  Lupe, however, had been cold and wet for a long time now.  She still wasn’t shivering, but what would happen when it got too dark to be moving around generating heat?

Maybe it was better to get out of this SE valley, and try going around the mountain now, while there was still some light?  SPHP decided it was the best option.  Lupe and SPHP left the SE valley, entering the forest.

The forest floor was covered with thick, spongy, wet moss.  It was a lot easier to move here than down in that interminable SE valley.  SPHP charged through the woods.  Lupe seemed to realize there was a need for speed.  She sniffed frantically everywhere, searching out the best routes ahead.  Clouds obscured much of the precious twilight.  Rain continued sprinkling now and then.

After a while, there were cliffs to the SSE.  A river was in view farther down the mountain.  Lupe and SPHP stayed above the cliffs, turning more to the SW.  The dark outline of Sukakpak came into view ahead.  That was great news.  Lupe was making progress!

Lupe started coming to landslides full of rocks and boulders.  At one of the first landslides she came to, there was a particularly big rock.  SPHP laughingly asked Lupe if she remembered that rock.  Lupe whined.  How odd!  Then it struck SPHP.  That rock did look faintly familiar.

SPHP looked around, back the way Lupe had just come.  Even in the growing darkness, SPHP was almost certain of it.  This was the landslide near the Dingo Shower ramp up to the S ridge.  In fact, there was the Dingo Shower ramp, barely visible in the gloom.  Lupe was already past it on the way back.

Haha, Loop!  We’ve got it made now!  Since we aren’t going to die of hypothermia tonight after all, maybe we should try to avoid being eaten by grizzlies, too?

SPHP started to sing.  SPHP is a terrible singer, but if you are trying to drive away grizzly bears, how good do you have to be?  What the singing lacked in quality, SPHP made up with volume.  The song of the hour was, of course, She’ll Be Comin’ Around the Mountain!

Lupe crossed the next 2 landslides, she passed through the saddle between Dillon Mountain and High Point 2003, this time staying much closer to Dillon Mountain.  She even seemed to find a stretch of Carey’s old road here, though it was hard to tell for certain in the darkness.

Nearing the Bettles River, there were troubles crossing a couple of ravines with water and mud in them.  SPHP finally just plunged right through, getting soaking wet feet.  Along the river, SPHP got stuck in dense stands of tall bushes, while Lupe continued racing around sniffing as if they didn’t exist.

Lupe drove those 6 white horses around the mountain a zillion times, but at long last she reached the Dalton Highway and the G6.

It must have been after midnight when Lupe jumped in.  Up on her stack of pillows and blankets, she started licking herself frantically.  SPHP toweled her off, fed her an entire can of Alpo, and put her special blankie on her.  She soon felt much warmer, and fell asleep almost immediately.

The Cookie Monster costume was in tatters.  SPHP was soaking wet and cold, too.  SPHP tore off the old blue rain poncho, stripped down, toweled off, and put on dry clothes.  Better!  Now to turn on the heater in the G6, and enjoy the luxury of warmth.  Click…  Click?!  Nothing but click?  Nope.  Click was it.  The battery was dead.

Lupe climbing Dillon Mountain, Brooks Range, Alaska 8-15-16
Climbing Dillon Mountain, Brooks Range, Alaska 8-15-16

Spiffy.  Nothing to do about it now.  SPHP piled on every available blanket and snuggled down under.  The battery was just going to have to wait until morning.

Related Links:

Next Adventure                            Prior Adventure

Sukakpak Mountain, Brooks Range, Alaska (8-13-16)

Lupe’s Last Mile North, Brooks Range, Alaska (8-14-16)

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