Mount Hitchcock, British Columbia, Canada (9-3-23)

Days 42 thru 44 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

9-2-23, 8:25 AM, 54ºF – A rest and recuperation day.  Lupe was back at the ridge with the big view of Mount Minto (6,913 ft.) and the N end of Atlin Lake, enjoying a romp through her favorite woods.  Keeping an eye out for the strange, abandoned camp the Carolina Dog had discovered in these woods last year, SPHP spotted it again.  The old camp was still a terrible mess.

Parked along the S edge of the ridge, the RAV4 was fully exposed to a 20 mph SSW wind.  Lupe spent the rest of the morning inside, snoozing on her pink blanket while an endless procession of big clouds sailed by.  In the afternoon, she was more alert.  SPHP provided a Busy Rib Hide to munch on.  Every now and then, Lupe dashed out to bark at a squirrel before returning a few minutes later.  Still the wind blew!

And then rather suddenly, late in the afternoon, it completely died away.

Loopster!  How about another romp in the woods?

Of course, Lupe was all for it, but this time SPHP had an ulterior motive.  While Lupe roamed as she pleased, SPHP searched for the abandoned camp again.  Didn’t take long to find it.

Here again, SPHP?  Do you have some kind of strange fascination with this place?

In a way, yes, I do, Loop.  It’s a travesty what a mess this joint is, and in the middle of your favorite woods, too!  We’re going to clean it up.

Half a dozen tarps had evidently been used to construct a makeshift shelter with long sticks serving as the framework.  Most of these tarps were in an advanced state of disintegration.  However, finding a couple that were still in relatively decent condition, SPHP began piling as much trash on them as possible.  Plastic bottles, metal cans, an old burn barrel, sections of pipe used as a flue, the disintegrating tarps, and more.

Once that was done, SPHP organized the fallen framework poles in a neat stack.

There!  All tidied up.  What’ya think, Loop?

98% better, SPHP, if we could make all this junk on the tarps disappear.

Fully intend to, Looper.  Let’s get started!

The weather was changing.  Completely overcast now, it began to rain as Lupe followed SPHP during multiple trips lugging the junk-laden tarps to the road where the trash could be stuffed into the RAV4, then back to the abandoned camp again for more.

There was a rest area 4.5 miles S along Atlin Highway No. 7.  Removing all of the accumulated debris required several trips in the RAV4.  It was raining hard, and a couple of rest area trash bins were stuffed full by the time the project was over and done with, but the terrible mess in Lupe’s favorite woods was history.

9-3-23, 7:28 AM, 32ºF – Listening to the rain late into the night, SPHP had grown despondent over what it meant for the American Dingo’s chances of climbing a mountain today, but morning brought both another change of fortune, and an unexpected shock.  Except for a big cloud billowing up from Atlin Lake, the sky was clear!  And that wasn’t all.

New snow on the mountains, SPHP!

New snow on Mount Minto (R). Photo looks S.

Wow!  So there is, Looper.  No wonder my paws got cold last night.

SPHP got out to heat up a can of chili for breakfast.  Sure enough, last night’s rain was frozen on the RAV4.  A lovely, crisp, early September morning!  Probably going to warm up nicely.

This is going to be a great day, Loopster!

Can we go on another sniff in the woods after breakfast, SPHP?

Oh, sure!  Then it’s on to Mount Hitchcock (5,886 ft.)!

After breakfast, Lupe did get her favorite woods romp.  Returning to the old camp, it looked so much better than before.

Back at the abandoned camp. Photo looks SSE.

9-3-23, 10:32 AM, 42ºF – Although just a dusting, the season’s first new snow added a dramatic touch to the mountains as Lupe set out.  SPHP had parked the RAV4 0.5 km S of a sign for Pat Creek at a wide flat area across Atlin Highway No. 7 from a couple of side roads.  Since the closest side road was only 500 feet S, that’s the way the Carolina Dog went.

Snow on Black Mountain (R) from Atlin Highway No. 7. Photo looks NNE.
Starting up the S side road (R). N end of Atlin Lake (L). Photo looks N.

The side road quickly brought Lupe to a large, pancake flat gravel yard.  SPHP was a little surprised to see that the N side road led up here, too.

At the gravel yard. Photo looks WSW.

First Mount White, and now Mount Hitchcock.  Does a mountain have to have a highway maintenance gravel yard to use as a trailhead before we’ll climb it now, SPHP?

Absolutely, Sweet Puppy!  It’s our new policy.

Marvelous!  So where does the trail start, SPHP?  Just like at Mount White, I’m not seeing it.  This time we seem to be fresh out of generator sheds for it to be hidden behind, too.

No trail that I’m aware of, Loopster.

No trail?  Mountains with trails would be a better new policy, SPHP.  You’re telling me that Mount Hitchcock is going to be a total bushwhack?

Not entirely.  Once we get above bush line, it won’t be.  As far as where to start, choose any spot you like, Looper, and we’ll see how it goes.

Crossing the gravel yard, Lupe plunged SE into the trees.

After passing through a dense band of alders, the American Dingo found herself in a jungle that looked like the forest primeval.  Big spruce trees towered among moss-covered boulders and a variety of bushes.  Thick moss also carpeted the entire floor of this wilderness.

In the forest primeval. Photo looks SE.

What now, SPHP?

Beats me, Loopster.  Just start climbing, I guess.

The jungle trek was very slow going as Lupe explored her way higher through a dank forest choked with trees, bushes with long horizontal branches, and mossy boulders.  Within 15 minutes, despite not getting far at all, she reached the first of a series of small bedrock benches.  These benches ran along walls ranging from only a few to 15 feet tall.

Exploring the mossy jungle.
On one of the first benches. Photo looks E.

Most of the benches slanted down toward the S or SW, serving as useful ramps higher.  Along each ramp, Lupe had to keep looking for a way to scramble up to the next ramp above.  It usually wasn’t hard to find one.  The benches and ramps kept getting both taller and wider as Lupe kept climbing.  With so much exposed bedrock around, the forest thinned out, making travel easier.

A bench with a slant. Photo looks ESE.
On a large ramp. Photo looks N.

Scrambling among the ramps and benches was fun, rather like exploring a maze.  Some provided views of Atlin Lake.  If Mount Minto hadn’t been hidden among clouds, Lupe would have seen it, too.  Fortunately, even as the rock walls grew in size, she was always able to find a route higher.

By the time Lupe reached the end of the benches, she’d already gained hundreds of feet of elevation.  Ahead, the sun was just peeping over a much higher ridge, shining down a steep, 200 foot tall rock slide.

At the rock slide. Photo looks SE.

Gads!  Let’s avoid all this steep talus, if we can, Looper.  This next hill or ridge, or whatever it is, looks highest toward the S, so try angling NE.

After scrambling across part of the rock slide, Lupe managed to get N of it, and back into the forest.  Climbing somewhat more steeply again, she headed E, soon encountering one of the largest mushrooms growing out of a rotting stump that SPHP had ever seen.  In fact, there were several big mushrooms, all of which looked incredibly healthy.

Back in the mossy forest. Photo looks E.
By the magnificent mushrooms.
A huge specimen.

At first, the rockslide-evading maneuver seemed to work, but soon the terrain began steepening further.  Apparently Lupe was now on the S side of a deep valley.  Attempting to continue E while gradually gaining elevation, the slope kept getting steeper, repeatedly forcing the Carolina Dog higher.

You’re doing wonderful, Looper, but this traverse is getting to be next to impossible for me.  I’ve got to get above it!  Looks to me like there’s better terrain not all that much higher than where we’re at.

Whatever you like, SPHP.  Go for it!

Heh.  Easier said than done!  SPHP didn’t actually like this scramble at all.  The worst of it wasn’t all that tall, maybe a 20 or 30 foot high section spent desperately clinging to small trees, and whatever bits of bedrock were available to prevent a fall, yet SPHP made it up in one piece.  By means of some black Dingo magic SPHP never saw in operation, Lupe made it up unassisted, too.

Above the short, scary scramble, the American Dingo kept climbing in open forest on more manageable terrain, eventually reaching a rocky spot with an encouraging view.

Thar she blows, Loopster!

Is that the top of Mount Hitchcock (5,886 ft.), SPHP?  It’s still a long way!

Yes.  We’re just getting started, Sweet Puppy.

Top of Mount Hitchcock (Center). Photo looks SE.

The climb went on.  Another rock provided a view of Black Mountain, where last night’s snow was starting to melt away.  Finally reaching a relatively level spot with a view of the N end of Atlin Lake, both Lupe and SPHP were ready for a break.

Black Mountain (L of Center). Photo looks NNE.
Taking a break. Atlin Lake below. Photo looks NW.

As slowly as things had gone so far, the break had to be a short one.  Lupe was soon climbing SE again.  She was definitely making progress, as evidenced by the constantly improving view of Mount Hitchcock.

Making progress toward Mount Hitchcock (L of Center). Photo looks SE.
The still snowy NW face (Center). Photo looks SE.

9-3-23, 2:28 PM – Lupe was still making decent progress when she came to a local high point.  Despite the view of Mount Hitchcock being better than ever here, SPHP was immediately concerned.  A cliff was directly ahead, blocking further advance.  Peering into an 80 foot deep valley filled with yellow aspens, the drop was obviously impassable where the Carolina Dog had reached it.

Mount Hitchcock (R of Center) from the first local high point. Photo looks SE.

We’ll have to find a way around this drop, Loop.  Let’s try going S.

Sniffing her way S, Lupe steadily lost elevation, quickly coming to the best view yet of a big section of Atlin Lake.

Atlin Lake. Photo looks SW.

We can turn E here, SPHP.  We’re past the cliff.

Going E down an easily manageable slope of young yellow aspens, Lupe lost only another 40 or 50 feet of elevation before reaching a saddle full of moss.  Starting back up again after crossing it, she soon arrived at the bottom of a nearly 200 foot high cliff.

Scooching N along the base of the cliff, the American Dingo succeeded in getting beyond it, and up onto a long ridge of bedrock with a second high point near its N end.  Looking W from here, the first high point was back in sight again, only marginally lower, and not all that far away.  A terrific view of Mount Minto (6,913 ft.) was beyond it.

Crossing the mossy saddle. Photo looks SSW.
On the bedrock ridge, the second local high point. First high point (R), Mount Minto (L). Photo looks WNW.
Mount Minto (Center). Photo looks WNW with help from the telephoto lens.

The fact that this bedrock ridge even had a N end was not good news.

Dang, Loop!  I was hoping this ridge would connect to something.  It’s a dead end with another cliff, and another little valley in our way!

It’s not a straight drop.  I think we can get down there, SPHP.

A quick search revealed a spot where Lupe was right.  The Carolina Dog had no problem getting down the slope.  By clinging to small trees, SPHP also managed to get down safely.  The entire descent was only around 65 feet.  At the bottom, Lupe found herself in a narrow valley full of spruce and moss.

Down in the narrow valley. Photo looks N.

Climbing E out of this valley, Lupe promptly reached a third high point.  Happily, the 65 foot descent beyond this one wasn’t steep enough to be an issue.  Coming a fourth high point, only a minor dip was beyond it.  A gradual rise now led to a flat, dripping wet forest featuring a maze of open lanes of melting snow.  No views at all here, except trees.

In the flat forest. Photo looks W.

We can make some tracks now, SPHP!

Yeah, we better, too!  I honestly had no idea how complex this terrain would be.  We’ve chewed up a lot of time, Loopster.

Do we keep heading E here, SPHP?

Yes.  We should come to a big lake, Loop.  The plan is to head E for about a km along its S shore, then turn S to a ridge that will eventually lead us up the back side of Mount Hitchcock from the E or SE.

Sure sounds like the long way around, SPHP.

It is, Loopster, but according to the topo map, it ought to be the easiest way up.

Lupe was crossing an enormous saddle between Mount Hitchcock and Black Mountain.  Continuing E, the terrain eventually sloped downhill.  The forest was even denser and wetter here, yet aided by gravity and the American Dingo’s route finding skills, progress remained quite good.

The topo map showed open ground W of the lake Lupe was heading for.  For some reason, SPHP had visions of firm, grassy terrain leading to a pebbled shore, and an open, dry forest similar to her favorite one back at the ridge with the view of Mount Minto and Atlin Lake, permitting a fun romp along the lake’s S shore.  Just get to the lake, and everything would be fine!

The gradual descent through the wet forest seemed much longer than it should have been.  When it finally came to an end, the scene ahead was not at all what SPHP had envisioned.  The open ground W of the lake turned out to be a vast region of tussocks and waist high bushes, dotted with spindly, boreal spruce.

Oh, my gosh, Loop!  It’s just a big bog!  If I had any sense, I would have known it would be.

Peak 5677 (L), Mount Hitchcock (R) from the start of the bog. Photo looks SE.
Mount Hitchcock (R of Center). Photo looks S.

Lupe persevered, splish-splashing through the tussocks and bushes all the way to the W end of the lake.  The closer she got to it, the wetter and more full of tussocks the ground became.  A well-defined shoreline was merely an illusion.  The whole region near the lake was standing water.  SPHP’s boots and socks were full of muck and completely water-logged.

The unnamed lake between Mount Hitchcock and Black Mountain. Photo looks E.
Lupe near the lake. Photo looks ENE.

Directly S, Mount Hitchcock loomed above all, so close now, yet suddenly seeming a nearly impossible objective.  It had taken 6 hours just to get this far.  SPHP stood in the swamp frozen with indecision and doubt.

We made it to the lake, SPHP!   What are you doing?

Having a mid-adventure crisis, I guess.  This really isn’t going very well.  Seems like I’ve seriously underestimated Mount Hitchcock, Loop.

Meaning what, exactly?  Are you thinking of turning back, SPHP?

I’m not far from it, Loopster.  There’s no way we’re going to slog through another km of this bog along the S shore of this lake, and then circle all the way around to come up at Mount Hitchcock from the SE.  At this rate, it will be dark before we even get there.

Too steep and too much talus to go straight up the N face, SPHP.  Want to call it, or try the NW ridge?

Plenty of talus there, too, but let’s try the NW ridge, Loopster.  It’s so much shorter than my original plan, and really doesn’t look that bad from here.

Turning SW, Lupe left the lake, heading for the deep green forest beyond the bog, the sky starting to cloud up a bit in that direction.

Heading for Mount Hitchcock’s NW ridge. Photo looks SW.

This next part of the forest proved snowy and wet, with the additional charm of being full of deadfall.  One obnoxious obstacle after another!  Not terrible, but tiresome work.  Yet Lupe kept at it, finally managing to reach the lower end of Mount Hitchcock’s NW ridge.  Her ascent began immediately, climbing SE amid a mix of trees, bushes, and boulders.

With snow making some of the rocks slippery, SPHP worried that Lupe might get injured due to a slip or missed jump.  She never did.  As usual, the American Dingo climbed with confidence, scrambling circles around SPHP.

Starting the ascent. Photo looks SE.
Snow made some spots slick. Photo looks SSE.

A 1,400 foot ascent soon turned into a mostly talus rock hop.  Lupe only needed a single boost from SPHP, and that was merely to save time.  She could have easily found a way around that difficult spot on her own.

The ascent wasn’t all talus.  Halfway up, Mount Hitchcock’s NW ridge rose in a series of big humps, with relatively flat regions of tundra and low bushes between much steeper talus climbs.  These regions provided opportunities for short breaks to rest and admire the incredible views.

A big easy stretch between talus climbs. Photo looks SE.
Taking a break. N end of Atlin Lake (L), Black Mountain (far R). Photo looks NNW.
At the top of a lane of tundra during a steep talus climb. Photo looks SE.
Still a long way to go. Photo looks SE.

9-3-23, 7:18 PM – The sunny, comfortably warm conditions down at the lake were but a memory now.  From out of the WSW, a chill breeze was stirring, dropping the temperature fast as it spread high-floating clouds across the sky.

Although the ascent of Mount Hitchcock’s NW ridge had otherwise been going smoothly, as usual SPHP had been dreadfully slow, not only due to the talus, but also due to a certain weariness setting in.  Scrambling up one talus field after another, only to have others keep appearing above, even Lupe was feeling it.

Reaching tundra again at the top of yet another hump, a glance off to the W spoke of a growing concern.  Hovering in the gray sky over by Mount Minto, the sun was no longer all that far from the horizon.

Mount Minto (L of Center) beyond Atlin Lake. Photo looks W.
N end of Atlin Lake. Mount Minto (L edge). Photo looks NW.

Sheesh!  We’re running out of time, Loopster!

I know, SPHP, but we’ll get there.  I’m feeling mighty tired, though.  Can we please take another break?

Sure, but only a short one.  How about some beef jerky, Loop?  Should give us an energy boost.

A short break, and the ascent continued.  Couldn’t be that much farther!  The swampy lake Lupe had visited began coming into view.  Going over to an edge offering a better look, the lake filled nearly the entire valley between Mount Hitchcock and Black Mountain (5,738 ft.).

Still climbing. Photo looks SE.
N end of Atlin Lake (L), Black Mountain (R). Photo looks NNW.
NE end of the lake (Center). Photo looks NE.
Nearly the entire lake. Black Mountain (L). Photo looks NNE.

Quite a view, Loop.  Still some more up to go, but it’s beginning to look like we’re actually getting somewhere.

Let’s finish it, SPHP!

Still took a while, but the talus fields were no longer as steep, making life easier.  Lupe finally reached a patch of tundra where it looked like the summit couldn’t be much higher.

Approaching the summit ridge. Photo looks SW.

Almost there, Loop.  Terrific job, Sweet Puppy!

I’m expecting great things, SPHP!

Near the NE end of Mount Hitchcock’s summit ridge. Photo looks SW.

9-3-23, 8:49 PM, 38ºF, Mount Hitchcock (5,886 ft.) – In fading light, and a chilly, 10 mph WSW breeze, Lupe stood on the highest rocks near the NE end of a rocky summit ridge.  She wasn’t quite at the true summit yet, but not far from it.  A visibly higher point was a short distance SW along the ridgeline.

After all this effort, Mount Hitchcock didn’t disappoint.  The views were spectacular!

Let’s tag the true summit, Loop, then have a look around.

The 250 foot long ridge ran NE/SW.  Reaching the apparent true summit, an even higher dark spire was now visible clear over at the far SW end.

Take a picture, SPHP!  We’re at the natural true summit.  That spire is just a cairn.

At Mount Hitchcock’s true summit. Photo looks SW.

Although the views were incredible from any point along the summit ridge, the completely unexpected 6 or 7 foot tall cairn at the SW end was clearly sitting at Mount Hitchcock’s premier viewpoint.  That was the place to be!

Atlin Lake from the cairn. Photo looks SSW.

Upon arriving at the cairn, desperately tired, Lupe promptly laid down.

Resting by the cairn. Mount Minto (R). Photo looks W.

Congratulations, Loopster!  May I shake your paw?  Mount Hitchcock!  I can scarcely believe we’re here.  Never dreamed it would take us so long.

Lupe shook paws with SPHP.

A chocolate coconut bar would sure help about now, SPHP.

In a few minutes, Looper.  Let’s get some photos while we’ve still got light.

Due N, over at Black Mountain (5,738 ft.), last night’s snow appeared to have entirely melted away.  Nearly 1,900 feet below, only the swampy W end of the lake N of Mount Hitchcock was visible from the cairn.

Black Mountain (L). Mount Hitchcock’s true summit (R). Photo looks NE.

Peak 5677, Mount Hitchcock’s somewhat lower twin, was 2 km due E.  Lowlands and mostly smaller mountains were beyond it.  Looking SE, Mount Carter (5,827 ft.) stood out well beyond the ridge connecting Peak 5677 and Mount Hitchcock.

Peak 5677 (R). Photo looks ENE.
Ridge connecting Peak 5677 and Mount Hitchcock (Center) in foreground, with Mount Carter (Center) beyond. Photo looks SE.

The most indisputably stupendous views of all, though, were of Atlin Lake and the mountains around it.  Incredibly long, Atlin Lake stretched from Birch Mountain (6,765 ft.) and Atlin Mountain (6,722 ft.) to the S, all the way to it’s N end well beyond Black Mountain.  The S end of Little Atlin Lake, and Mount White (5,016 ft.), which Lupe had been to only 2 days ago, were in sight even farther N.

Atlin Lake from Mount Hitchcock. Photo looks SSW.
Atlin Lake (L), Little Atlin Lake (Center), Black Mountain (R). Photo looks N.
Mount Minto (R of Center). Photo looks W.

Lupe was thrilled when SPHP finally sat down facing E, away from the cold wind.  After sharing the promised chocolate coconut bar, a Cliff cool mint bar, and beef jerky, she immediately curled up on SPHP’s lap and closed her eyes.  Already wearing all layers brought along, SPHP hugged the weary Carolina Dog to warm her up while gazing out at the world from Mount Hitchcock.

Despite the tremendous views, SPHP’s thoughts were troubled.  It had taken an insane amount of time to get here, more than 10 hours!  Night was coming on.  Soon darkness would envelope this wild, remote land.  The WSW wind felt cold, and was clearly driving darker clouds this way.  Snowed last night.  The temperature was plunging up here.  Maybe it would snow again?  Rain might be even worse!  Other than SPHP’s boots, Lupe and SPHP had both dried out in the breeze on the way up Mount Hitchcock’s NW ridge.  Getting soaking wet again now that it was cold would be awful.  SPHP at least had the red rain jacket, but Lupe had no protection at all …

Lupe!  Poor Lupe!  She was so tired, had been so valiant, and had earned a long rest.  Feeling incredibly cruel, a mere 20 minutes after arriving on Mount Hitchcock, SPHP woke the exhausted American Dingo up.

Loopster!  We’ve got to get out of here!

SPHP, I feel like I just closed my eyes!  Is summit hour over already?  How can it be?

I’m so sorry, Looper.  Your summit hour isn’t anywhere close to over yet, but we can’t stay.  We’ve overdone it.  It’s all my fault, but we have to go.

Lupe stood there in shocked disbelief after being pushed off SPHP’s lap.  Go, yes!  But go where?  SPHP had a look down Mount Hitchcock’s NW ridge, back the way Lupe had come up.

Mount Hitchcock’s NW ridge (Center & R). Photo looks NW.

Didn’t look bad at all.  SPHP considered.  Yeah, and what about doing it all again in the dark while exhausted?  That long talus descent, the wet forest full of deadfall, the mucky march through the bog, another dark forest, those crazy steep-sided minor high points separated by valleys, that scary little scramble, finding a way through the benches and ramps, down to the boulders and primeval forest.

Oh, Loop!  What have I gotten us into?  Let’s have a look S.  Maybe we can go down the SW face?

Mount Hitchcock’s S ridge (foreground). Photo looks S.

I don’t know, Looper.  Can’t really see the SW face from here, but this looks better to me.

There’s a big flat area that must be tundra where the ridge starts turning toward Peak 5677, SPHP.  Doesn’t look hard to get that far.  You’re the one with the map.  What does it say from there?

Hard to know, Loopster.  Might be a SW ridge we can follow?  May be fine, then again, maybe not.  In truth, once we start heading down from that flat spot you’ve pointed out, the map doesn’t look a whole lot different than the way we came up.

Light was fading fast.  Like it, or not, decision time!

S, my dearest, most faithful friend!  Onward!  Puppy, ho!

9-3-23, 9:53 PM – The S slope went very well.  Now down at the broad saddle where the ridge to Peak 5677 began curling E, Lupe stood in deepening twilight as a harvest moon rose beyond her.

Down at the saddle. Peak 5677 (R). Photo looks ENE.

So far, so good, Loop.  Let’s have a look at the SW face.

Heading over to the rounded SW side of the saddle, the news was good.  Mostly tundra with some rocks mixed in, a huge, uniformly steep slope dropped many hundreds of feet into the gloom.  A yawning black region lurked far below, well beyond the point where any detail could be seen.

That must be the forest, SPHP.

Yup.  Well, this first part will be easy enough.  Let’s lose as much elevation as we can, as fast as we can, Looper.

Little flashlight and poles in paw, SPHP, started down the slope, Lupe roaming at will.  Another 500 feet of elevation was quickly and easily lost, putting the Carolina Dog 750 feet below Mount Hitchcock’s summit.  A promising start, but midnight found her on rock slides, or thrashing lost among dense bushes chest high on SPHP, miserable due to lack of sleep, and continually begging SPHP to stop.

9-4-23, the wee hours – Weary as well, SPHP did stop, quite often, but never for long.  Feeding Lupe the rest of her Taste of the Wild, then bits of beef jerky to keep her energy level up, the downward plunge always resumed within a few minutes.  Even this late, a faint light was always in the N, just enough to reveal what looked like rain to the S.  Every now and then, SPHP felt a little mist.

Could have stopped longer to let Lupe rest, but fear of the weather, and a general sense that it was better to keep moving, no matter how slowly, to stay warm kept SPHP pressing on.  No doubt hoping her continued good behavior would eventually earn her mercy and respite, the Carolina Dog was a real trooper whenever on the move, which was 90% of the time.

In the dark, on the steep slopes, SPHP’s progress was dismal, ghastly.  Even with the little flashlight, there was no way to tell which way to go.  Appearances were deceiving, and the dizzying black void was always threatening to cliff Lupe out.  Endless bushes made it impossible to see the ground.  Trying to handle the flashlight while clinging to bushes, and probing each step ahead for something solid with poles that often struck only air despite being extended to maximum length, was slow work.

Leaving Mount Hitchcock’s summit, SPHP had started a point to point descent GPS track.  Rarely consulting it, because the iPhone’s battery was nearly shot, results were always almost unbelievably disappointing.  An hour gone by, and only 100 feet lower!  Despite continual effort, SPHP was barely creeping cautiously down the mountain.

Fortunately, Lupe came to no cliffs.  No rock formations to negotiate.  The slope was very steep, but uniform.  Step by step, clinging to bushes that the poles kept getting caught in, fearful of dropping and losing the flashlight, SPHP inched continually lower, Lupe lost down in the jungle right behind.

9-4-23 – At 6:00 AM, the sky seemed a little lighter.  By 7:30 AM, SPHP was able to put away the flashlight.  Lupe was still at 4,250 feet.  Able to see what was ahead now, and better able to use the poles and latch onto bushes for support, SPHP’s speed improved tremendously.  Lupe was nearly down to the forest now, and soon in it.

Unfortunately, reaching the forest did not help the American Dingo’s cause much.  The steep descent continued.  Repeatedly trying to follow drainages lower, they were choked with alders with long, horizontal branches.  Lupe needed to stay in the spruce forest, or at least along its edge, in order to get anywhere.

The steepness of the slope gradually abated.  Lupe began coming to flat spots where the spruce forest was fairly open, permitting rapid surges ahead.  However, they always seemed to lead to another alder-choked drainage.  SPHP was standing on a thick, horizontal alder branch in one of these drainages, when the unexpected occurred.

Ow!  Dang!  Dang!  Ow!

SPHP!  Are you alright?  What happened?

Ow!  I’ve been better.  Dang it all, Loopster!  That branch I was standing on snapped, and I fell.

Are you hurt bad, SPHP?  Is anything broken?

No, but somehow that branch delivered a heck of a blow to my L shin when it gave way, Looper.  Nothing’s broken, though, just bruised.

Are you sure, SPHP?

Yeah, I’m sure.  If I had a broken leg, I wouldn’t be able to stand.  Ow!  Dang!  Give me a moment, Loopster, and we’ll keep going.

SPHP’s L shin throbbing with pain, the journey resumed.  Heading SW through another relatively flat spruce forest, Lupe was still at nearly 4,000 feet when she came to the bedrock benches.  From the edge of the first one, the Carolina Dog peered down on a very steep descent.

Wow.  I don’t know, SPHP.  The rock walls between these benches are a lot taller than where we came up.

Not many ramps visible, either, Loop.

Might as well try it, but initial impressions were correct.  Lupe got only 50 feet lower before cliffing out.  A sheer drop ran all along the bench she was on.  No even remotely feasible way down to the bench below.  It was another crushing blow.  Still nearly 1,000 feet lower, Atlin Highway No. 7 was only a little over a km away.

Doesn’t matter how close we are to the highway, Looper.  We can’t get to it from here.

Back up then, SPHP?

Yup.  No other choice.

Regaining the lost 50 feet, SPHP checked the map.  If Lupe was truly stuck here, it would be devastating.  The thought of going back up and over Mount Hitchcock again was beyond the pale.

There’s a big valley S of here that goes W to the highway, Loop.  Let’s see if we can get down to it.

Turning SE, Lupe made excellent time through a flat, open forest, soon coming to a small, mostly dried-up, swamp.  Circling around the muck, within minutes she reached the edge of a long, steep slope of spruce and yellow aspens.  No benches, ramps, or rock formations.

Looks doable, SPHP!

9-4-23, 11:36 AM – More than 25 hours after setting out from the RAV4, Lupe was snoozing on the forest floor.  Unnoticed, a few yellow leaves fell on her whenever a momentary light breeze disturbed the aspens.  Still at 3,100 feet, and 2 km from Atlin Highway No. 7, SPHP had called a halt here, finally convinced that getting to the highway was now merely a matter of time.

In Dingo Dreamland, at last!

Barefoot, SPHP pulled up a pant leg.  Scraped up a bit, a giant knot was already forming on the throbbing L shin, but nothing to be done about it.  At times munching on trail mix, SPHP laid watching Lupe as leaves fluttered down.  Two birds came by, other than that, just gnats and a few spiders.  Fearing abandonment, the only times Lupe opened her eyes were when SPHP shifted position.

Oh, Lupe!  I’ll never abandon you.  Don’t you know that?  We’ve been through so much together.  It’s all turned out fine again.  How lucky we are to be here in this beautiful, remote place.

This special moment near the end of both triumph and ordeal, in a quiet place never to be seen again, went on for an hour and a half.

Still quite a march back to Atlin Highway No. 7, losing hundreds of feet of elevation along the way.  Turning W as soon as the terrain allowed, Lupe came to a big expanse of level forest, crossed it, and eventually reached a faint road.  SPHP first thought this primitive road might be part of the old Telegraph Trail, but it wasn’t.  The road continued down and down, finally dumping Lupe out at Atlin Highway No. 7, more than 3 miles S of the RAV4.

Lupe was very happy during the hike N along the highway, leading the way, confident that the RAV4 couldn’t be much farther.  Heading for the ditches whenever traffic appeared, it was uphill nearly all the way, the only significant downhill stretch, the last 500 feet down to the faithfully waiting bright blue RAV4.

9-4-23, 3:50 PM, 57ºF – Unsurprisingly, the American Dingo leapt in, curled up on her pink blanket, and closed her eyes the moment SPHP opened the door.  29 hours and 18 minutes!  Mount Hitchcock was a new personal record for a day hike.  Oh, what a day it had been!

On Mount Hitchcock, British Columbia, Canada 9-3-23
Lupe’s GPS Track (Ascent)

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Mount White, Yukon Territory, Canada (9-1-23)

Days 40 & 41 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

8-31-23, 9:06 AM, Kluane National Park & Reserve – Lupe arrived nearly an hour before the Thechal Dahl visitor centre opened.  Not a soul was around.  However, like yesterday, by the time the park rangers showed up, a small crowd had already gathered.  No buses this morning, though.

By the Thechal Dahl visitor centre flags in the Slims River valley. Photo looks SW.

SPHP was pumped!

Wait here in the RAV4, Loopster.  I’ll be back as soon as I’ve had a chance to chat with one of the rangers.  Just want to make certain that we ought to be able to cross Bullion Creek safely.  If it’s a go, I’ll check out one of the clumsy bear-proof canisters, and we’ll be on our way to the Kaskawulsh Glacier and Observation Mountain (6,824 ft.)!

How long will we be gone, SPHP?

At least 3 days, more likely 4, Loop.  It’s a bit of a march.

Sounds totally awesome, SPHP!

Oh, it will be, Looper!  You can count on it!  There’s a reason this has been on your list of possibilities for so many years.

8-31-23, 10:47 AM, Kluane National Park & Reserve – SPHP was back.

Where’s the bear-proof canister, SPHP?  Did you forget it?

We aren’t going, Loopster.

What!  Why not?  That couple we met on the way to the Bullion Plateau yesterday said the rangers told them it was possible to cross Bullion Creek, if they just went downstream from where the Slims West trail reaches it.

Yes, that’s true.  Still kind of a tough crossing from what I understand, but that’s not the problem, Loop.

What is then, SPHP?  Are they out of bear-proof canisters?

I don’t think so.  The problem is Canada Creek, the last creek before the Kaskawulsh Glacier.  It’s been captured by the Alsek River, too!  Canada Creek used to have a braided delta, so crossing it was no big deal back in 2016, but since then it has carved a channel concentrating all its flow in one fast-moving, frigid torrent.

We can’t cross it?  How deep is Canada Creek, SPHP?

They tell me it’s waist deep!  On me!  We’re free to attempt it, if we want to, Loop, but at our own risk.  The rangers strongly advise against it.  Large groups that can help each other are having some success getting across Canada Creek, but most loners like us end up turning back.

Hate to miss out on the Kaskawulsh Glacier, SPHP, but I prefer adventures where I get to live to tell the tale.

Kind of how I feel about it, too, Sweet Puppy.

The Canada Creek news had come out of the blue.  Nothing to be done about it.  Time for Plan B!  Less than 15 minutes later, Lupe was enjoying a brief romp along the S shore of Kluane Lake.  Evidently this would be her last opportunity to see the big lake on this Dingo Vacation.

Paw deep in Kluane Lake. Photo looks N.

Instead of setting off on a grand adventure, this became a positioning day, which meant a long drive.  In Whitehorse, SPHP purchased orange juice, a roasted chicken, doughnuts, and other supplies, then fueled up the RAV4.  Other stops were few and far between.  SE of Whitehorse, Lupe got to escape the RAV4 for a few minutes at the Alaska Highway bridge over the Yukon River, but that was about it.

Alaska Highway bridge over the Yukon River. Photo looks W.

8-31-23, 4:25 PM, 2 km from Jake’s Corner – The American Dingo stood on the pavement near the start of Atlin Highway No. 7.  A mountain she’d been by many times was in sight.

That’s Mount White (5,016 ft.), isn’t it, SPHP?

Mount White from near the start of Atlin Highway No. 7. Photo looks SE.

Indeed it is, Loopster, or at least part of it.

Are we finally going to climb Mount White, SPHP?  Is that why we’re here?

That’s the plan, Looper.  Tomorrow, weather permitting!

Going to happen then, SPHP!  The weather is beautiful here in the Yukon.

8-31-23, 4:56 PM – SPHP had driven right on by Mount White all the way to a favorite spot, a ridge with a view of the N end of Atlin Lake flanked by Mount Hitchcock (5,886 ft.) and Mount Minto (6,913 ft.).  Between them, both Birch Mountain (6,765 ft.) and Atlin Mountain (6,722 ft.) were also in sight at the far end of the lake.

N end of Atlin Lake (Center) with Black Mountain (far L), Mount Hitchcock (L) and Mount Minto (R). Photo looks S.

How about a romp through your favorite woods, Loopster?

The Carolina Dog was all for it!  Excited and happy to be here, Lupe raced through the woods sniffing everything.  SPHP kept an eye out for the strange, abandoned camp she’d found last year, but didn’t see it.

Exploring Lupe’s favorite woods.

Lupe roamed farther N in these woods than she’d ever been before.  She had a great time, arriving back at the RAV4 famished.  Roasted chicken with a Busy Rib Hide for dessert!  It doesn’t get much better than that!

A cool S wind was blowing, and the sky began clouding up as the sun sank toward the mountains.

9-1-23, the wee hours – The S breeze blew all night.  Every time Lupe wanted out, clouds were sweeping past a waning, but still nearly full moon.  SPHP found the moon reassuring.  No drastic changes.  The weather was going to be alright.

9-1-23, 7:17 AM – A gorgeous morning!  Only a light breeze now.  As Lupe enjoyed an early morning stretch, sunlight spread over Mount Minto.  According to the Tlingit sign, they called it Kiyan.

Morning at the viewpoint ridge. Photo looks NW.
By the old Taku River Tlingit sign. Kiyan (Center).
Mount Minto (L). Photo looks SSW.

Any roasted chicken left, SPHP?

Yeah, some.  It’s what’s for breakfast, Loop.

The Carolina Dog was fine with that.  SPHP guzzled some orange juice, too, then got the pack ready.

9-1-23, 9:03 AM, Atlin Highway No. 7 – Driving back N, SPHP turned R off the highway at the White Mountain sign.  Lupe cooperated in a photo op at the sign, then hopped back into the RAV4.  A short drive on a gravel side road quickly led to an empty trailhead.

At the White Mountain sign. Photo looks E.

Before hitting the trail, SPHP paused for a look at the dilapidated plaque on display.  It took a moment to sink in.

The dilapidated plaque on display at the trailhead.

Oh, good grief!  Back into the RAV4, Loopster.

Why?  What’s wrong, SPHP?

I’ve always just assumed from that sign out by the highway that this was the trailhead for the trail up Mount White.  It isn’t!  This trail is just an abandoned stretch of the old highway.  It doesn’t go up the mountain.  We’re at the wrong place, Looper!

Do you know where the trailhead we’re looking for is, SPHP?

Not exactly, but we can’t be too far from it, Loop.  I remember now that the trail is supposed to leave a highway maintenance gravel yard from behind a generator.  Can’t be too many places that would fit that description.

Returning to Atlin Highway No. 7, SPHP drove slowly N, watching for side roads toward the mountain.  Right after passing a driveway for the Little Atlin Lodge on the L, another side road appeared on the R, directly opposite from an unofficial-looking Km 6 sign.  A yellow metal gate 100 feet in on this wide gravel side road was closed, but there was plenty of room to park the RAV4 near the highway.

This might be it, Looper.  Let’s have a look.

Atlin Highway No. 7 (R), Yellow metal gate (L of Center). Photo looks S.

9-1-23, 9:27 AM, 56ºF – Walking past the yellow gate, machinery could be heard as Lupe followed the broad side road on an uphill curve to the L (E).  Around this first corner, the road immediately entered a large, flat gravel yard.  No one was around.  The sound was coming from over by a large white shed sitting up on a slightly elevated area off to the L (N).

That must be where the generator is, Looper.

Sure looks like we must be in the right place now, SPHP.

At the gravel yard with Mount White beyond the generator shed. Photo looks N.

Venturing up to the shed, at first, SPHP didn’t see any sign of a trail.  A more careful look then revealed a 4 foot tall metal post down the slope behind the shed right along the edge of the gravel yard.  No sign was on the post, but a trail disappeared down into the trees right next to it.

Lupe standing right in front of the metal post down the slope behind the generator. The Mount White trail starts in the trees right beside her. Photo looks N.

We’re in business, SPHP!

The Mount White trail started off dipping 15 feet down into the forest, where it immediately crossed a small stream.  A 3″ diameter electrical cable sheathed in pink insulation was suspended over the creek.  The American Dingo helped herself to a drink, then, passing right under the overhanging cable, began following the trail N.

Down by the tiny stream. Photo looks NNE.

Beyond the stream, the pink cable ran right along the ground.  The trail never strayed far from it during a long, aggressive climb directly up a ridge with virtually no switchbacks.  Early on, Lupe traveled through a stretch of aspens, but most of the time she was in a spruce forest.

Heading up among the aspens. Photo looks N.

At first, there were no views, or only tree-broken glimpses.  Lupe gained hundreds of feet of elevation before reaching the first open area.  From here, she already had a terrific view of Little Atlin Lake, and the gravel yard far below.

First view of Little Atlin Lake. Mount Minto (Center). Gravel yard (R). Photo looks S.

Heading back into the forest, the steep climb continued.  After gaining 800 or 900 feet of elevation, Lupe came to another opening.  The views were even better here.  At the upper end of this clearing, Lupe faced a 10 to 15 foot near-vertical, rocky scramble.  She was up it in a flash without any assistance from SPHP.

Following the pink electrical cable higher. Photo looks N.
Steep clearing reached after gaining 800 to 900 feet of elevation. Photo looks NNW.
Enjoying the short, near-vertical scramble. Photo looks N.
Little Atlin Lake from above the scramble. Mount Minto (L of Center). Photo looks S.

After gaining roughly 1,200 feet of elevation, the forest began to thin out.  Lupe came to more and more rocky open spots with grand views.  By now, the trail’s aggressive rate of climb was beginning to diminish.  The microwave tower powered by the generator via the pink electrical cable eventually appeared up ahead.  It was still quite a bit higher, but the Carolina Dog was making good progress toward it.

Little Atlin Lake from one of the many superb viewpoints. Photo looks W.
Approaching the microwave tower (L of Center). Photo looks NNE.

Just before reaching the microwave tower, Lupe came to a flat region with a sweeping view of Little Atlin Lake.  Virtually the entire lake was now in sight!

S end of Little Atlin Lake from just below the microwave tower. Mount Minto (L of Center). Photo looks S.

Beyond the N end of Little Atlin Lake, the American Dingo could even see the S end of Marsh Lake.

Marsh Lake is the source of the Yukon River, isn’t it, SPHP?

Yup.  That’s right, Loopster.  The Tagish River is the main one flowing into Marsh Lake.  It’s officially the Yukon River leaving Marsh Lake.  See that highest peak beyond Marsh Lake?  You’ve been there!

I have?  What peak is it, SPHP?

That’s Mount Lorne (6,629 ft.), Looper.

Mount Lorne!  Where we met Greg and Svetlana.  They were so nice!

Yes, they were.  It’s also where we got lost in the bushes on the way back.

N end of Little Atlin Lake (Center), Marsh Lake & Mount Lorne (R). Photo looks WNW.

Going on up to the microwave tower, Lupe spent a few minutes sniffing around.  Two bins made of logs were near the tower.  These bins were connected to each other, and full of huge rocks.

Strange!  What are these bins for, SPHP?

I don’t know, Loop.  Maybe ballast holding in place some underground support structure for the tower?

A helicopter pad was nearby, too.  The Carolina Dog ventured up onto it, but no helicopters came to whisk her away to Mount White’s summit.

Just below the microwave tower (L). Photo looks N.
The helicopter pad view. Little Atlin Lake and Mount Minto (L). Photo looks SSW.
Waiting for a free ride to the summit! Photo looks NE.

Sorry, Loopster.  We’re going to have to walk.

That was no longer such a big deal.  Lupe had already gained nearly 2,000 feet of elevation, and had less than another 500 feet to go.  The Mount White trail continued beyond the microwave tower, still quite steep for a few hundred more feet, before getting easier as it wound through a shallow valley among bushes and stunted trees bordered by large outcroppings of light gray rock.

Climbing beyond the microwave tower. Photo looks NE.
In the shallow valley. Photo looks N.

Making a final short ascent, the trail climbed out of the valley.  Lupe reached smooth bedrock.  Directly ahead, a cluster of white stones sat atop a highpoint.

Approaching Mount White’s premier viewpoint (R of Center). Photo looks N.

9-1-23, 11:52 AM, 52ºF – Although the sun was shining, a 10 mph SW breeze felt chilly as Lupe reached Mount White’s premier viewpoint.

At Mount White’s far W viewpoint. N end of Little Atlin Lake (L), Marsh Lake (R) with Mount Lorne (R) beyond. Photo looks WNW.

Congratulations, Loop!  You’ve reached Mount White’s most scenic spot!

Thank you, SPHP, but “most scenic spot”?  That’s terrific news, but are you implying that we have more mountain to climb?

SPHP shook Lupe’s paw.

Heh.  If you only knew, Sweet Puppy.  Yeah, we’ve got a long way to go yet.  Mount White (5,016 ft.) is gigantic!  See that high point 0.25 km off to the E?  It’s clearly higher than we are here, and that’s just Mount White’s SW subpeak.  The true summit is somewhere way off to the NE.

Mount White SW Peak (R). Survey marker (L) at the tip of Lupe’s tail. Photo looks E.
Survey marker at Mount White’s premier far W viewpoint.

Like how far NE do you mean, SPHP?  I don’t even see it!

Like nearly 5 km NE of that SW summit as the crow flies, Looper.  Longer the way we’ll have to go.  It’s not that much higher, only a couple hundred feet.  I can’t tell which hill out there is it yet, either.

Peak 5540 (L). Although SPHP didn’t realize it at the time, the hill in the distance by the R edge is Mount White’s true summit. Photo looks NNE.

More than 5 km?  We’ll be needing extra energy to do all that, SPHP.  Break out the chocolate coconut bar!

Only brought one, Loop, and we’re saving it for the true summit.  How about a Cliff cool mint bar, instead?

The cool mint bar was an acceptable substitute.  When it was gone, SPHP shared beef jerky and water with Lupe, then sat munching on peanuts while admiring the tremendous views.  In addition to Marsh Lake and the N end of Atlin Lake, both the N and S ends of Little Atlin Lake were in sight, although some of the middle wasn’t.  Mount Lorne was easily identifiable off to the NW.

Nares Mountain (5,833 ft.) and Montana Mountain (7,233 ft.), two other peaks Lupe had been to before, may have been in view far to the SW, but even if they were, SPHP didn’t recognize them.

To the E, the terrain consisted of rumpled highlands, only a bit lower, with a line of silver cliffs visible far to the ENE.  SPHP wondered if the high point above them might be the true summit of Mount White?  Hopefully, not.  It seemed incredibly far away.

The silver cliffs (L), Mount White SW Peak (R). Photo looks E.

The best view of all was the one to the S, where Mount Minto (6,913 ft.) rose beyond the S end of Little Atlin Lake.

S end of Little Atlin Lake (L), Mount Minto (Center). Photo looks S.

Mount Minto!  That’s another one that’s been on your list of possibilities for years, Loopster.

I know!  Are we ever going to climb Kiyan, SPHP?

You speak Tlingit now, too, Loop?  I’d love to, but rather doubt it.  We’d need an affordable way to get across the N end of Atlin Lake.  Haven’t found one yet.

40 minutes had already flown at this viewpoint, and Mount White was on today’s agenda, not Mount Minto.  If Lupe was ever going to get to the true summit, she’d better be on her way.

Mount White SW Peak (4,790 ft.) is next, Loop.  Onward!  Puppy, ho!

The territory leading to the SW peak was a rolling landscape of grass, tundra, low bushes, and light gray rock outcroppings, a beautiful, easy romp.  On the way there, Lupe came across a bright red patch of alpine bearberries.

Among the alpine bearberries. Photo looks SE.

9-1-23, 12:45 PM, Mount White SW Peak (4,790 ft.) – Next to a cairn, Lupe stood at the top of a small, stony highpoint.  It had taken her only 10 minutes to get here.

Mount White SW Peak summit. Photo looks E.

Good job, Loop!  What do you see up there?  Any sign of Mount White’s true summit?

I see a lot of territory, SPHP.  No obvious true summit, though.  Come on up, and see for yourself.

SPHP did.  Looking NE along the sharp edge of the massive Mount White plateau, an undramatic hill way over at the far end appeared to be at least a little higher than anywhere else on the plateau.

That hill must be it, Looper.  At least, that’s what it looks like from here.

Doesn’t look like much, SPHP.  Not even very rocky.  Sure is a long way off, though.

Well, the true summit is either there, or way over by those silvery cliffs, which are even farther away.  In any case, we better keep going, Loop.

Peak 5540 (L). Mount White true summit (R) in the distance. Photo looks NE.

After spending only a few minutes at the SW peak, the American Dingo left it again, heading SE while slowly losing elevation along a ridge.  To the E, a very interesting region was in view.  Beyond a valley that Lupe was going to have to cross, she saw many low hills of light gray rock.  A somewhat lower region toward the S was dotted with trees.

Mount White’s true summit (L), silvery cliffs (R). Photo looks NE.
Low gray hills (L), tree-dotted region (R). Photo looks E.

So pretty!  That looks like such fun territory to explore, doesn’t it, Loop?

We’ll have a blast, SPHP!

Wrong!  Well, not completely.

It started out well.  Losing 200 feet of elevation during a steeper descent from the ridge into the valley, instead of heading for the gray hills, which would have been by far the better choice, SPHP led Lupe toward the somewhat lower region dotted with trees.  At first, it wasn’t bad, but as the Carolina Dog pressed on toward the E, more and more dense thickets of bigger and bigger bushes appeared.

This was beautiful country, but one that became an increasingly difficult struggle to move through efficiently.  It didn’t help at all that the 100 foot contours on the topo map hid a lot of up and down along the way.

At a decent spot in the bush and tree region. Photo looks NE.

A second significant valley had to be crossed as Lupe made her way E.  She managed to reach the bottom a little N of the narrow valley’s high point, finding the valley itself nearly bush-free.  However, after going S to the saddle and turning E again, another difficult bushwhack ensued while trying to get to the top of the next ridge.

At the bottom of the second valley. Photo looks S.

Persistence paid off.  Lupe managed to reach the ridge line.  Instead of chest high on SPHP, the bushes were much shorter up here, only a foot or two high, with firm tundra in some areas between them.  To the N, a series of slightly higher small hills was ahead.

A quick glance back. Mount White SW Peak (L of center). Photo looks W.
Finally up on the ridge with small hills ahead. Photo looks N.

Sheesh!  When am I ever going to learn, Looper?  In the far N, it’s almost always best to avoid vegetation.  Bushes, tussocks, Devil’s club, hidden bogs, spongy tundra, it’s always some tale of woe!  We should have come through those rocky gray hills.  We will on the way back.  I can guarantee you that!

You live, yet never learn, SPHP.  I’ve had to get used to it.

Happily, while Lupe still had quite a way to go yet, the difficult part of the journey was over.  All that was necessary now was to stay on the high ground, avoiding any tall bushes.

Heading N along the hilly ridge crest, the true summit of Mount White, which had been out of sight for a long time, came back into view.  By now, SPHP was certain the hill to the NE was it.  Thankfully, it wasn’t clear over by the silvery cliffs, which were still impossibly far away.

Starting to close in on Mount White’s true summit (Center). Photo looks NNE.

The trek N was fun!  Low bushes, and scattered patches of taller ones, did little to impede progress.  Much of the time, Lupe was racing across firm tundra, running and sniffing to her heart’s delight.  At one point she clearly sniffed something interesting off to the W, repeatedly raising her nose to the air, then staring off that way.  However, nothing appeared, and the scenic journey continued.

A scenic journey. Mount Minto (far R). Photo looks SSE.
Getting closer. Mount White true summit (R). Photo looks NNE.
Sniffing something. Photo looks NW.
It’s over that way, SPHP! Photo looks NNW.

Saving time, Lupe didn’t hit all the high points while crossing the vast rolling plateau, but stayed high enough to avoid any serious vegetation.  Turning E, a final gradual descent to a broad saddle got her to only a moderately steep climb up a long tundra slope.  Cake all the way!

On final approach. Mount White true summit (Center). Photo looks ENE.

9-1-23, 4:21 PM, 50ºF, Mount White (5,016 ft.) – Next to a white rock, Lupe sat in a chilly 15-20 mph SW wind.  That foot high rock, situated on a fairly flat region of tundra with other white rocks scattered about, was the true summit of Mount White.

At Mount White’s true summit. Photo looks SE.

SPHP shook Lupe’s paw.

Congratulations, Loopster!  We made it!

Thank you, SPHP.  Now about that chocolate coconut bar.  Seems long overdue!

Fine!  But let’s get out of this cold wind, first.

Although the best views were S and W, SPHP retreated a little down the NE slope before taking a seat on the tundra.  After sharing the one and only chocolate coconut bar, beef jerky, and water with Lupe, she curled up on SPHP’s lap.

Facing NE away from wind, conditions were reasonably pleasant.  Lupe was very interested in the beautiful Yukon scene stretched out before her.  Looking down a long tundra slope, she scanned a broad region of highlands on Mount White’s NE flank for signs of movement.  SPHP’s gaze was drawn more toward lines of nameless dark blue mountains on the horizon.  Looking E, the silvery cliffs were still 6 km away.

Looking down on the highlands along Mount White’s NE flank. Photo looks NE.
The silvery cliffs. Photo looks E with help from the telephoto lens.

SPHP drank a vanilla Equate, polished off the peanuts, then worked on the trail mix.  Not to be outdone, Lupe gobbled up the rest of her Taste of the Wild, and had more water.  Then for a long while, it felt good sitting there together, simply staring out into space, enjoying the Yukon.

Of course, that could only last so long.

Nearly picture time, Loopster.  We better have a look at some of these other magnificent views while we’ve got the chance.

30 feet N of the true summit, quite a few white rocks were over near 4 short wooden stakes that formed a rectangle.  An old survey pin was among them.

Mount Michie (L) beyond the 4 wood stakes. Peak 5540 (R). Photo looks NNW.
The survey pin.

Little Atlin Lake couldn’t be seen from here, but Marsh Lake was in view to the NW.  Lupe could still see Mount Lorne, too.

By the 4 wood stakes. Mount Lorne (far L), Marsh Lake (Center & R). Photo looks NW.

Almost due W, the Alaska Highway was 2,500 feet below.  Jake’s Corner at the junction with Tagish Road, which goes to Carcross, was in sight.

Alaska Highway (R) with the S end of Marsh Lake beyond. Photo looks W.

Although Little Atlin Lake wasn’t in view, both Mount Minto (6,913 ft.) and Mount Hitchcock (5,886 ft.) were, with the N end of Atlin Lake sandwiched between them.

Mount Hitchcock (L), Mount Minto (Center). Photo looks S.

Kiyan is still my favorite view from Mount White, SPHP.  We’ve had a lot of fun in the Atlin Lake region over the years!

Mount Minto is my favorite, too, Loopster.  And guess what?  If all goes well, we’ve got other big adventures coming up down that way.

On this Dingo Vacation, SPHP?

Yep!  You’ll see!

While Mount Minto may have been the unanimous favorite, another view was rapidly becoming the most pertinent.  Off to the SW, Jubilee Mountain (5,951 ft.), among the closest peaks on the far side of unseen Little Atlin Lake, stood out beyond Mount White’s SW Peak.

Jubilee Mountain (R of Center), Mount White SW Peak (R). Photo looks SW.

Hate to say it, Loop …

Oh, I know, SPHP!  It’s a long way back, and getting to be about that time.

9-1-23, 5:11 PM – 50 minutes after arriving, the American Dingo sat alone in the wind, enjoying her final moments at Mount White’s true summit.  Glancing back to the NW, she saw SPHP give the signal to come.

Final moments at Mount White’s true summit. Photo looks SE.

The first part of the return was so much fun!  Encouraged by SPHP, Lupe hit some of the high points skipped during the ascent.  As a result, she journeyed mostly along tundra, making travel fast and easy.  Once back to the region where she’d sniffed something out there, the Carolina Dog began raising her nose in the air, and staring off to the W again.

She knew!

Heading back. Jubilee Mountain (L of Center), Mount White SW Peak (R of Center), N end of Little Atlin Lake (R). Photo looks SW.

Lupe never saw them, but, this time, SPHP did.

Two mountain goats!
One of the color-coordinated white mountain goats of Mount White.

Progress slowed once the descent into the region of bushes began.  On the way down to the narrow bush-free valley, Lupe succeeded in finding more open routes, making the bushwhack easier than before.  Trying to climb NW back out of the valley was another matter, though.

On a steep slope, an incredibly dense thicket of bushes taller than SPHP was such a struggle to push through.  At a particularly difficult point, SPHP gave a mighty shove, attempting to squeeze by.  The bushes gave an even mightier shove back, sending SPHP into an uncontrolled fall backwards.

SPHP!  Are you all right?

Didn’t hurt.  Not at all, because SPHP never hit the ground.  Cushioned by the bushes below, SPHP was left hanging upside down with the pack wedged in among them, thrashing around like a beetle or turtle that had been flipped over, unable to regain its feet.

Yes, of course, I’m alright, Loop.  Couldn’t hurt myself here, if i tried, but I can’t get up!

Well, you look ridiculous, SPHP!

No doubt.  My brainpower may be increasing, though.  All my blood is pooling in my head.

After repeated failures, SPHP finally did manage to escape the bushes’ grasp, and that was about the end of the worst of it.  The terrible struggle didn’t go on much farther.  Lupe managed to find an open lane leading above and beyond the tallest bushes.

Although the sun was in SPHP’s eyes, making it almost impossible to see, the journey became easier when the American Dingo reached tundra on the way to the gray hills along the 4,700 foot ridge E of Mount White’s SW Peak.  Once there, the rocky terrain made for easy travel.

Lupe tagged Mount White SW Peak (4,790 ft.) again, but lingered only a few minutes.  The sun was sinking into the clouds as she hurried on.

9-1-23, 8:42 PM – Back at Mount White’s premier viewpoint, the evening views were even more amazing.  A golden glow was in the clouds, while the big lakes below were a shimmering silver among a darkening land.

Back at Mount White’s premier viewpoint. Photo looks WNW.

We should stay and watch the sunset, SPHP.  Might be truly amazing!

I’d love to, Loopster, but don’t want to take on the steep descent in the dark.  That one near-vertical scramble in particular worries me.  Besides, there are a lot of clouds around.  Chances are the sun will just sink into them, and be lost from view without producing much of a sunset.  This may be as good as it gets.

Several more minutes appreciating the awesome views, and Lupe was reluctantly on her way.

Evening view of Mount Hitchcock (Center) beyond the S end of Little Atlin Lake. Mount Minto (R). Photo looks S.

A fair amount of light was still in the sky as Lupe reached the microwave tower again, but it faded quickly during the subsequent steep descent.  As usual, SPHP was as slow as molasses on the steepest sections.  The growing gloom of twilight made the descent seem faintly dangerous.

Returning to the microwave tower (R). Photo looks SSW.

It turned out that SPHP’s concerns about the short, vertical scramble in the dark were not justified.  Exploring a bit E, Lupe managed to avoid the whole thing without difficulty.  The Carolina Dog was already below the scramble when she stopped and looked.

Told you, SPHP!  We should have stayed up on Mount White!

Off to the NW, beyond the N end of Little Atlin Lake, beyond Marsh Lake, even beyond Mount Lorne (6,629 ft.), a scene of rapidly fading glory!  The sky was on fire.  Awestruck, both Lupe and SPHP stood watching.

Moments later it was gone.  Nothing remained, other than the steep, dark descent through the black forest.  (End 10:38 PM, 55ºF)

Little Atlin Lake while descending Mount White, Yukon Territory, Canada 9-1-23
Lupe’s GPS Track (Ascent)

Links:

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Lupe’s Scrollable GPS Tracks: (Ascent) (Descent)

Mount Lorne, Yukon Territory, Canada (8-11-19)

Birch Mountain, Skagway Ranges, British Columbia, Canada – Part 1: Across Atlin Lake to Teresa Island! (8-12-22)

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