Tag: Banff National Park

Peyto Lake & Bow Summit, Banff National Park, Alberta, Canada (8-1-13)

5:30 AM.  Daylight already.  Lupe was wide awake.  Soon SPHP was, too.  It was August 1, 2013, Day 23 of Lupe’s 2013 Dingo Vacation to the Beartooths & Canada.  This was to be Lupe’s last full day in Canada.  Yesterday she had already started heading S from the Mount Robson area to begin the trip back home.  Before leaving Canada, Lupe and SPHP still had a few places to go and things to see.  It was good to be up early!

Shortly after 6:00 AM, SPHP was parking the G6 at the Peyto Lake parking lot near Bow Pass on the Icefields Parkway Highway No. 93.  Although the Peyto Lake observation deck at the end of a short paved path is a very popular tourist destination, no one else was around this early in the day.  The G6 was the only vehicle in the parking lot.  It wouldn’t stay that way for very long.  Lupe and SPHP took the short path to see Peyto Lake.

Peyto Lake in Banff National Park from the observation deck at Bow Pass.
Peyto Lake in Banff National Park from the observation deck at Bow Pass.  Mountains along the Mistaya River valley stretch out as far as the eye can see.  Peyto Lake is named after Ebenezer “Wild Bill” Peyto, a legendary early hunter, trapper, prospector, guide & outfitter in the Canadian Rockies.  Photo looks NW.

There used to be a lookout tower at Bow Summit.  After admiring the view of Peyto Lake and the Mistaya River valley from the observation deck, Lupe and SPHP went in search of the old fire lookout service road.  SPHP had brought along the following note summarizing instructions on how to get to Bow Summit from research done online:

“From the Peyto Lake overlook, take the right hand of two paved trails leading uphill.  After 100 meters, there will be a 3 way junction at an interpretive sign.  Continue on the middle branch angling uphill to the left of the sign (this is part of the upper nature trail).  In a few minutes, the paved nature trail will continue on to the right, but continue straight on the old fire lookout service road.”

Soon Lupe was trotting happily on up the road to the old fire lookout.  It was a gorgeous morning with views to match.  After gaining 760 feet of elevation, Lupe and SPHP reached the end of the road at Bow Summit.  There were wonderful views to the N back toward the Mistaya River valley and Waterfowl Lakes.  The best views to the S toward Bow Lake and beyond were a little farther on.

Looking SE from Bow Summit toward Bow Lake.
Looking SE from Bow Summit toward Bow Lake.  From L to R:  Mount Andromache (9,829 ft.), Mount Hector (11,135 ft.), Bow Peak (9,318 ft.), and Crowfoot Mountain (10,023 ft.).

L to R: Mount Hector, Bow Peak, Crowfoot Mountain as seen from Bow Summit.

Mountains along the Mistaya River valley, Banff National Park, Alberta, Canada from Bow Summit.
Mountains along the Mistaya River valley, Banff National Park, Alberta, Canada from Bow Summit.
Looking NNW from Bow Summit at mountains along the Mistaya River valley.
Looking NNW from Bow Summit at mountains along the Mistaya River valley.

The views at Bow Summit were wonderful, amazing and incredible.  It was hard not to feel sad that Lupe had to leave Canada.  The views weren’t the only thing that were amazing and incredible, though.  Amazing and incredible swarms of not-so-wonderful mosquitoes started plaguing Lupe and SPHP within just a minute or two of arriving at Bow Summit.

Although Lupe doesn’t like strong winds, a good stiff breeze would have been welcome.  As it was, Lupe and SPHP tired very quickly of serving as local blood banks.  The mosquitoes had been only a minor annoyance while moving on the way up, but they were intolerable staying put in any one place.  Definitely time to be moving on.  Two hours after leaving the G6, Lupe and SPHP were back at the now bustling Peyto Lake parking lot.

After Bow Summit, Lupe went on one more outing in the Canadian Rockies.  Near the high point on Hwy 93 heading W toward Kootenay National Park in British Columbia, there was a trailhead for Boom Lake.  The trail was only 5.1 km to Boom Lake, which was perfect for the limited time Lupe had to spend.

At the trailhead parking lot, Lupe met a skinny 7 month old black lab puppy named Geeko.  Lupe and Geeko played with each other in the parking lot, and each time they met along the trail.

SPHP met a Canadian biologist from Winnipeg along the way.  When SPHP learned the biologist had hiked more than 2,000 km of trails in the Canadian Rockies, SPHP asked for recommendations on day hikes.  The biologist recommended a trail quite near by, which goes to the Stanley Glacier.  Lupe didn’t have time to check it out this trip, but SPHP hopes some day she will.

By the time Lupe and SPHP reached Boom Lake, it was raining and foggy.  It looked like a beautiful spot, but Lupe would have to return under better conditions to explore further and get some photos worthy of the area.  Lupe had fun, but she was a rather soggy doggie by the time she completed the trek back to the G6.

Lupe and SPHP enjoyed a wonderful drive through scenic Kootenay National Park, but made no more stops until reaching Radium Hot Springs.  Lupe had to wait in the G6 at Radium Hot Springs, while SPHP went in to get cleaned up and bask in the warm mineral waters.

After so many days exploring the Canadian Rockies, Lupe was fine with spending a little time chillin' in the G6 while it rained outside and SPHP went to the Radium Hot Springs.
After so many days exploring the Canadian Rockies, Lupe was fine with spending a little time chillin’ in the G6 while it rained outside and SPHP went to the Radium Hot Springs.

SPHP returned from the Radium Hot Springs clean and refreshed.  Cleanliness always boosts SPHP’s spirits, especially while traveling.  It was time to get serious about making some progress getting home!  Lupe was in for a good time – after all, the cows and horses in Montana alone were going to provide at least 500 miles of frenzied Dingo barking pleasure!

Links:

Peyto Lake & Lupe’s Search for the Peyto Glacier (7-26-13)

Bow Lake & The Trail to Bow Glacier Falls (7-25-13)

Book Review: Ain’t it Hell, Bill Peyto’s Mountain Journal

Next Adventure                     Prior Adventure

Want more Lupe adventures?  Choose from Lupe’s 2013 Beartooths & Canadian Rockies Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index.  Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Parker Ridge & the Saskatchewan Glacier, The Icefields Centre & the Athabasca Glacier (7-27-13)

7-23-13.  The 18th Day of Lupe’s 2013 Dingo Vacation to the Beartooths and Canadian Rockies.  Lupe and SPHP woke up fairly early, around 6:30 AM.  It was already light out, of course, and had been for over an hour.  The sky was a brilliant blue and the sun shone brightly on the mountain peaks to the W.

Lupe and SPHP were still in the shadows of the mountains to the E.  Lupe and SPHP went down to the bridge they had crossed the previous evening when Lupe had gone to see Chephren and Cirque Lakes.  For a few minutes, Lupe and SPHP just stood on the middle of the bridge looking at the Mistaya River and enjoying the moment.

Then it was time to go.  Lupe had things to do!  SPHP was really looking forward to it, too.  Lupe was going to go on the most anticipated trek of the entire vacation, the short hike up to Parker Ridge for a magnificent view of the Saskatchewan Glacier!  After a quick breakfast, Lupe and SPHP headed N in the G6 along the Icefields Parkway Hwy 93.

Even from the highway, there were great views of snow-clad peaks all around.  N of Saskatchewan Crossing, the impressive North Saskatchewan River meandered through the huge valley just W of the Icefields Parkway.  A medium-sized black bear ran across the highway from the (W) river side to the (E) mountain side of the highway.  Lupe saw it.  It was the first bear she had seen on this trip and she got a very good look at it.  She barked ferociously.  The bear took no apparent notice of the noisy dingo whizzing on by.

Climbing up past the big loop in Hwy 93, the skies suddenly darkened.  It wasn’t any more than 4 or 5 more miles up to the Parker Ridge turnout.  Lupe was soon at the Parker Ridge trailhead right alongside the Icefields Parkway, but the weather was suddenly very threatening.  Dark clouds with heavy fingers of fog were rolling down the mountainsides from the NW.

Lupe and SPHP got out of the G6.  SPHP checked out the map on display at the Parker Ridge trailhead.  A chill wind was blowing.  Within just a minute or two, a cold rain descended on Lupe and SPHP.  Clearly conditions were not favorable for climbing Parker Ridge.  Even if Lupe and SPHP could endure the cold wind and rain and get up on the ridge, there wouldn’t be anything to see in the fog. Lupe wisely jumped back in the G6 before she got bone-chilling soaking wet.  Carolina Dogs know enough to come in out of the rain.

SPHP decided Lupe might just as well head on over Sunwapta Pass to the Icefields Centre near the Athabasca glacier, which wasn’t far away.  At Sunwapta Pass, Lupe left Banff National Park and entered Jasper National Park for the first time.  It was still quite early and people were just starting to arrive when Lupe and SPHP pulled in to the parking lot at the Icefields Centre.  A cold rain was coming down steadily.  The whole sky looked as dark and threatening as if a huge November blizzard was about to strike.  Across the highway, the Athabasca glacier and surrounding snow-covered peaks loomed gloomily and mysteriously through the fog.

The Icefields Centre had just opened.  Lupe stayed in the G6, while SPHP went in to see if there was any weather forecast available.  Lupe’s bright cheerful summer day had changed to a very convincing display of the onset of winter in the span of 30 minutes.  The weather looked so bad outside, SPHP had started thinking that if this was really a major front moving in, maybe the Athabasca glacier was as far as Lupe would get on here 2013 Dingo Vacation.  The notion that Lupe was going to miss out on climbing Parker Ridge and seeing the Saskatchewan glacier was very disappointing.

SPHP talked to a young woman at the information desk and asked for a weather forecast for Jasper for the next few days.  Someone else was interested in the same information.  She got on her computer and checked it out.  Today and tomorrow would be rather iffy with thunderstorms possible, with highs of 17°C (63°F) and 20 degrees C (68°F) expected.  The following two days were supposed to be clear and 25°C (77°F).  SPHP was relieved.  The forecast was far less ominous than the weather outside.  SPHP returned to join Lupe in the G6 and wait.

The rain continued for the better part of an hour.  Lupe snoozed.  SPHP read.  By the time an hour was up, the rain had pretty much stopped.  Lupe and SPHP could see a little patch of blue sky trying to peek through over the Athabasca glacier.  The weather improved rapidly.  The little patch of blue sky was growing and spreading out fast from the Athabasca glacier.  Soon the mountainsides 1,000 feet above the Icefields Centre parking lot were becoming visible revealing a significant dusting of new snow.

Clearing skies over one of Lupe and SPHP's very favorite mountains in the Canadian Rockies, Mt. Athabasca (11,453 ft.)
Clearing skies over one of Lupe and SPHP’s very favorite mountains in the Canadian Rockies, Mt. Athabasca (11,453 ft.)
Crisp, clear and clean with a new dusting of snow. Mt. Andromeda (11,286 ft.) and the Athabasca Glacier.
Crisp, clear and clean with a new dusting of snow on the heights. Mt. Andromeda (11,286 ft.) and the Athabasca Glacier.
Snow Dome (11,483 ft. on L) and Mt. Kitchener (11,417 ft. on R) with the Dome Glacier between them. Jasper National Park 7-27-13
Snow Dome (11,483 ft.)(L) and Mt. Kitchener (11,417 ft.) (R) with the Dome Glacier between them. Jasper National Park 7-27-13
The Icefields Centre in Jasper National Park. Tickets for snowbus tours that go right up onto the Athabasca Glacier and guided walks on the toe of the glacier are available here.
The Icefields Centre in Jasper National Park. Tickets for snowbus tours that go right up onto the Athabasca Glacier, and guided walks on the toe of the glacier are available here.
Clearing skies over Snow Dome, another favorite mountain.
Clearing skies over Snow Dome, another favorite mountain, and the Dome Glacier.  Snow Dome is the only spot on earth (outside of Antarctica) from which water flows to 3 different oceans.
Clear skies over Mt. Andromeda and the Athabasca Glacier. Time for Lupe to go climb Parker Ridge to see the Saskatchewan Glacier!
Clear skies over Mt. Andromeda and the Athabasca Glacier. Time for Lupe to go climb Parker Ridge to see the Saskatchewan Glacier!

SPHP was elated!  Lupe was not only going to get to go up Parker Ridge to see the Saskatchewan Glacier, but the scene would be even more fantastic with a dusting of new snow on the mountains.  Lupe and SPHP headed back to the Parker Ridge turnout.  Other people were already gathering there for the hike up as well.  The climb along the excellent trail only takes 45 minutes or so to reach the crest of Parker Ridge.

The Saskatchewan Glacier is visible flowing down from the Columbia Icefield near the head of the huge valley on the other side of Parker Ridge.  Except it wasn’t.  The valley below was full of fog when Lupe first arrived.  Lupe and SPHP waited for it to clear.  SPHP chatted with a couple of guys from Edmonton.  After 20 or 30 minutes, the fog started dissipating.  Eventually it disappeared entirely.

Looking SE from Parker Ridge down into the lower portion of the glacial valley. The glacier (not shown) has retreated to the upper end of this long valley.
Looking SE from Parker Ridge down into the lower portion of the glacial valley. The glacier (not shown) has retreated to the upper end of this long valley.
Looking S directly across the valley from Parker Ridge.
Looking S directly across the valley from Parker Ridge.
The Saskatchewan Glacier flows down from the Columbia Icefield.
The Saskatchewan Glacier flows down from the Columbia Icefield.
Lupe on Parker Ridge 7-27-13
Lupe on Parker Ridge 7-27-13

Lupe on Parker Ridge, Canada 7-27-13Lupe on Parker Ridge & Saskatchewan Glacier 7-27-13Lupe and SPHP wandered around up on Parker Ridge for quite a while.  Different vantage points gave slightly different perspectives.  Due to the lay of the terrain, climbing higher up on the ridge seemed to just hide more of the glacier from view.  Some of the best vantage points were achieved by following a trail towards the E along the edge of the valley going away from the glacier.

Saskatchewan Glacier from Parker Ridge 7-27-13
Saskatchewan Glacier from Parker Ridge 7-27-13

Saskatchewan Glacier, Canada 7-27-13

The E end of the Saskatchewan Glacier valley as seen from Parker Ridge. The Icefields Parkway Hwy 93 is visible way down below.
The E end of the Saskatchewan Glacier valley as seen from Parker Ridge. The Icefields Parkway Hwy 93 is faintly visible way down below.
Heading back down to the G6 along the Parker Ridge trail in northern Banff National Park, Canada.
Heading back down to the G6 along the Parker Ridge trail in northern Banff National Park, Canada.

On the way back down to the G6, Lupe was amidst a crowd of tourists coming up or going back down.  Lupe made a few new acquaintances along the way.   Once back to the G6, Lupe and SPHP headed N again on Icefields Parkway Hwy 93 over Sunwapta Pass (the border between Banff and Jasper National Parks).  SPHP drove on down to the Icefields Centre again, but this time turned off the opposite side of the Icefields Parkway and went down to the parking lots below the Athabasca Glacier.

The parking lots were 80% full and there were a lot of people around.  Not exactly a wilderness experience, but where else can you drive practically up to the toe of a big glacier?  A short trail led Lupe to a viewpoint well short of the glacier’s edge.  Fences and lots of signs warning of the extreme dangers posed by glaciers blocked any further advance.  It was all typical over-the-top hype that applies to everything these days, but whatever.  (Drizzle on Jersey turnpike!  Millions affected!  Take appropriate precautions and stay tuned for further updates!)

Toe of the Athabasca Glacier, Canada 7-27-13
Toe of the Athabasca Glacier, Canada 7-27-13
Lupe near the toe of the Athabasca Glacier, Jasper National Park, Canada 7-27-13
Lupe near the toe of the Athabasca Glacier, Jasper National Park, Canada 7-27-13
People on the Athabasca Glacier. Presumably they bought tickets at the Icefields Centre to one of the guided walks on the glacier.
People on the Athabasca Glacier. Presumably they bought tickets at the Icefields Centre to one of the guided walks on the glacier.

Lupe at the Athabasca Glacier, 7-27-13The Athabasca Glacier was making its own weather.  A strong, chill wind blew down off it into Lupe’s face.  Away from the glacier, summer had returned.  Close to it, cold locked in the ice during winters long centuries ago made itself felt one more time.

Lupe returned to climb Parker Ridge on 7-29-14 for a second time during her 2014 Dingo Vacation to the Beartooths and Canadian Rockies.  Click on the Parker Ridge link to see Lupe’s post on that ascent!

Links:

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Want more Lupe adventures?  Choose from Lupe’s 2013 Beartooths & Canadian Rockies Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index.  Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.