Columbia Icefield – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Wilcox Pass Trail, Jasper National Park, Canada (7-31-13)

Early on the morning of 7-31-13, the day after Lupe’s explorations up the glorious Berg Lake Trail to see Mt. Robson and Berg Lake, Lupe and SPHP headed S in the G6 back towards Jasper. It was the 23rd Day of Lupe’s 2013 Dingo Vacation, and time to start the long drive back home. There wasn’t any huge rush though – there was still time for a few more great Dingo adventures along the way!

From Jasper, Lupe and SPHP continued S along the beautiful Icefields Parkway Hwy 93. SPHP stopped the G6 at a pullout a few km before reaching the Icefields Centre across from the Athabasca Glacier. The pullout provided an excellent spot to admire the upper Sunwapta River Valley, and a portion of the Columbia Icefield beyond. At this point, the Sunwapta River is just a braided stream bearing little resemblance to the mighty river it becomes further N by the time it roars over Sunwapta Falls.

The Sunwapta River Valley & the Columbia Icefield from the Icefields Parkway Hwy 93.

Lupe wasn't concentrating much on the view from the pullout along the highway. Instead she seemed plenty happy just hiding out in the lush foliage near the road. — Lupe wasn’t concentrating much on the view from the pullout along the highway. Instead she seemed plenty happy just hiding out in the lush foliage near the road.

While still in the area of the Columbia Icefield, SPHP thought it would be a good idea for Lupe to check out the Wilcox Pass Trail before leaving Jasper National Park. Just a few km S of the Icefields Centre across from the Athabasca Glacier is a short gravel road on the E side of the Icefields Parkway Hwy 93 which goes to the Wilcox Creek Campground. The Wilcox Pass Trailhead is located along this gravel road immediately before the road reaches the campground.

Wilcox Pass is only a 4 km hike from the trailhead, but until nearing the pass, most of the way the trail climbs pretty steeply. It starts off winding around through a forest, but the forest thins out about the time the trail comes around a bend and reaches the first stunning views of the Athabasca Glacier and surrounding mountains.

The Athabasca Glacier comes into view along the Wilcox Pass Trail.

The Dome Glacier between Snow Dome and Mt. Kitchener from the Wilcox Pass Trail. — The Dome Glacier (C) between **Snow Dome** **(11,483 ft.)** (L) and **Mt. Kitchener** **(11,417 ft.)** (R) from the Wilcox Pass Trail.

Mt. Athabasca (L), Mt. Andromeda (C) and the Athabasca Glacier (R)from the Wilcox Pass Trail. — **Mt. Athabasca** **(11, 453 ft.)** (L), **Mt. Andromeda** **(11,286 ft.)** (C) and the Athabasca Glacier (R) from the Wilcox Pass Trail.

There were lots of people on the trail. It was easy to understand why. The already amazing views became better and better as the trail continued climbing above the remaining forest. Eventually the trail reached the high point of Wilcox Pass, which proved to be at a very broad, gently sloping open area of heather dotted with small ponds and streams.

The trail continued NNW on over the pass to the E of Mount Wilcox, but the best views were clearly going to be towards the SW in the direction of the Athabasca Glacier and surrounding peaks. Lupe and SPHP left the pass heading that direction. Lupe loved the open high ground along the way. Pretty soon, Lupe and SPHP arrived at the edge of a ridge situated 1,400 feet above and just NE of the Icefields Center.

The views of the Athabasca Glacier and surrounding snow-covered peaks from Lupe’s final perch were astonishing. Photos barely begin to convey the sense of height, space and frozen splendor inspired by the icy panoramic sweep of the towering mountains and gleaming white glaciers that met Lupe’s gaze from that high ridge. More of the dazzling Columbia Icefield shone brilliantly above the glaciers than Lupe and SPHP had ever seen before, yet even that was still just a tiny part of the whole. In an instant, the Wilcox Pass Trail became Lupe and SPHP’s favorite half-day hike in the Canadian Rockies or anywhere else.

Lupe at the viewpoint SW of Wilcox Pass.

Mount Athabasca from the ridge SW of Wilcox Pass. — **Mount Athabasca** **(11,453 ft.)** from the ridge SW of Wilcox Pass.

Mount Andromeda & the Athabasca Glacier — **Mount Andromeda** **(11,286 ft.)** & the Athabasca Glacier

This shot shows the Icefields Centre and Icefields Parkway Hwy 93 both 1,400 feet below the ridge. — This shot shows the **Icefields Centre** and Icefields Parkway Hwy 93 both 1,400 feet below the ridge.

Lupe and SPHP stayed at the edge of the ridge SW of Wilcox Pass for a long time. It seemed like a shame to ever leave, but time waits for no Dingo, nor even any Carolina Dogs. Fortunately Carolina Dogs are immensely practical. Lupe was in high spirits on the return trip from the SW ridge back across the heather to the Wilcox Pass Trail, and on down to the G6.

A last look at Snow Dome (L) and Mt. Kitchener (R) on the way down the Wilcox Pass Trail. — A last look at Snow Dome (L) and Mt. Kitchener (R) from near the Icefields Parkway Hwy 93.

Lupe and SPHP resumed the drive heading S over Sunwapta Pass, the border between Jasper and Banff National Parks. The Wilcox Pass Trail had been so wonderful, SPHP had already started thinking about what else Lupe could still do this day. So, just 5.5 miles S of the pass, SPHP turned off the Icefields Parkway Hwy 93 to the Nigel Creek trailhead. The map at the trailhead showed that it was 7 km up to Nigel Pass. The first part of the trail was actually a continuation of the gravel road to the trailhead. Lupe and SPHP set off for Nigel Pass.

Lupe was quite ready for another adventure, but after trudging up the road 0.5 mile or so, SPHP realized it wasn’t really going to happen. After the 42 km round trip up to Berg Lake and Mt. Robson the previous day, and hardly a break after the climb up to Wilcox Pass, SPHP didn’t really have the steam left to continue – at least, not for a little while. It was time to rest. Lupe was surely puzzled when SPHP turned around and led her back to the G6. The beautiful drive S on the Icefields Parkway resumed.

Near the Waterfowl Lakes campground, SPHP parked the G6 again. SPHP still wanted to do something easy that Lupe would like. After a bit to eat, Lupe and SPHP walked through the campground and took the bridge over the lovely Mistaya River. Lupe followed the same trail she had just a few days before to Chephren and Cirque Lakes.

This trail gains very little elevation while proceeding through a dense forest. With the campground closed for the summer for repairs to the flood-damaged water system, no one was around. The trail was abandoned. It was a pleasant, easy stroll through the very quiet forest. At least, it had been quiet until an American Dingo arrived. Lupe found lots of squirrels to bark at along the way. Her excitement rang through the forest. She was having a most excellent time.

This time, the junction where the trail divides to go to either Chephren or Cirque Lake was as far as Lupe and SPHP went before turning around. Gradually twilight was coming on. The squirrels started hitting the hay. Slowly the darkening forest grew quiet again. By 10:00 PM, Lupe was back snoozing peacefully in the G6.

Did she dream about the scenic wonders of Wilcox Pass, or the squirrels in the forest? SPHP bet on the squirrels.

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Wilcox Pass Trail, Jasper National Park, Canada (7-29-14)

Nigel Pass & Panther Falls, Banff National Park, Canada (7-31-14)

Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s 2013 Beartooths & Canadian Rockies Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Parker Ridge & the Saskatchewan Glacier, The Icefields Centre & the Athabasca Glacier (7-27-13)

7-23-13. The 18th Day of Lupe’s 2013 Dingo Vacation to the Beartooths and Canadian Rockies. Lupe and SPHP woke up fairly early, around 6:30 AM. It was already light out, of course, and had been for over an hour. The sky was a brilliant blue and the sun shone brightly on the mountain peaks to the W.

Lupe and SPHP were still in the shadows of the mountains to the E. Lupe and SPHP went down to the bridge they had crossed the previous evening when Lupe had gone to see Chephren and Cirque Lakes. For a few minutes, Lupe and SPHP just stood on the middle of the bridge looking at the Mistaya River and enjoying the moment.

Then it was time to go. Lupe had things to do! SPHP was really looking forward to it, too. Lupe was going to go on the most anticipated trek of the entire vacation, the short hike up to Parker Ridge for a magnificent view of the Saskatchewan Glacier! After a quick breakfast, Lupe and SPHP headed N in the G6 along the Icefields Parkway Hwy 93.

Even from the highway, there were great views of snow-clad peaks all around. N of Saskatchewan Crossing, the impressive North Saskatchewan River meandered through the huge valley just W of the Icefields Parkway. A medium-sized black bear ran across the highway from the (W) river side to the (E) mountain side of the highway. Lupe saw it. It was the first bear she had seen on this trip and she got a very good look at it. She barked ferociously. The bear took no apparent notice of the noisy dingo whizzing on by.

Climbing up past the big loop in Hwy 93, the skies suddenly darkened. It wasn’t any more than 4 or 5 more miles up to the Parker Ridge turnout. Lupe was soon at the Parker Ridge trailhead right alongside the Icefields Parkway, but the weather was suddenly very threatening. Dark clouds with heavy fingers of fog were rolling down the mountainsides from the NW.

Lupe and SPHP got out of the G6. SPHP checked out the map on display at the Parker Ridge trailhead. A chill wind was blowing. Within just a minute or two, a cold rain descended on Lupe and SPHP. Clearly conditions were not favorable for climbing Parker Ridge. Even if Lupe and SPHP could endure the cold wind and rain and get up on the ridge, there wouldn’t be anything to see in the fog. Lupe wisely jumped back in the G6 before she got bone-chilling soaking wet. Carolina Dogs know enough to come in out of the rain.

SPHP decided Lupe might just as well head on over Sunwapta Pass to the Icefields Centre near the Athabasca glacier, which wasn’t far away. At Sunwapta Pass, Lupe left Banff National Park and entered Jasper National Park for the first time. It was still quite early and people were just starting to arrive when Lupe and SPHP pulled in to the parking lot at the Icefields Centre. A cold rain was coming down steadily. The whole sky looked as dark and threatening as if a huge November blizzard was about to strike. Across the highway, the Athabasca glacier and surrounding snow-covered peaks loomed gloomily and mysteriously through the fog.

The Icefields Centre had just opened. Lupe stayed in the G6, while SPHP went in to see if there was any weather forecast available. Lupe’s bright cheerful summer day had changed to a very convincing display of the onset of winter in the span of 30 minutes. The weather looked so bad outside, SPHP had started thinking that if this was really a major front moving in, maybe the Athabasca glacier was as far as Lupe would get on here 2013 Dingo Vacation. The notion that Lupe was going to miss out on climbing Parker Ridge and seeing the Saskatchewan glacier was very disappointing.

SPHP talked to a young woman at the information desk and asked for a weather forecast for Jasper for the next few days. Someone else was interested in the same information. She got on her computer and checked it out. Today and tomorrow would be rather iffy with thunderstorms possible, with highs of 17°C (63°F) and 20 degrees C (68°F) expected. The following two days were supposed to be clear and 25°C (77°F). SPHP was relieved. The forecast was far less ominous than the weather outside. SPHP returned to join Lupe in the G6 and wait.

The rain continued for the better part of an hour. Lupe snoozed. SPHP read. By the time an hour was up, the rain had pretty much stopped. Lupe and SPHP could see a little patch of blue sky trying to peek through over the Athabasca glacier. The weather improved rapidly. The little patch of blue sky was growing and spreading out fast from the Athabasca glacier. Soon the mountainsides 1,000 feet above the Icefields Centre parking lot were becoming visible revealing a significant dusting of new snow.

Clearing skies over one of Lupe and SPHP's very favorite mountains in the Canadian Rockies, Mt. Athabasca (11,453 ft.) — Clearing skies over one of Lupe and SPHP’s very favorite mountains in the Canadian Rockies, **Mt. Athabasca** **(11,453 ft.)**

Crisp, clear and clean with a new dusting of snow. Mt. Andromeda (11,286 ft.) and the Athabasca Glacier. — Crisp, clear and clean with a new dusting of snow on the heights. **Mt. Andromeda** **(11,286 ft.)** and the Athabasca Glacier.

Snow Dome (11,483 ft. on L) and Mt. Kitchener (11,417 ft. on R) with the Dome Glacier between them. Jasper National Park 7-27-13 — **Snow Dome** **(11,483 ft.)**(L) and **Mt. Kitchener** **(11,417 ft.)** (R) with the Dome Glacier between them. Jasper National Park 7-27-13

The Icefields Centre in Jasper National Park. Tickets for snowbus tours that go right up onto the Athabasca Glacier and guided walks on the toe of the glacier are available here. — The Icefields Centre in Jasper National Park. Tickets for snowbus tours that go right up onto the Athabasca Glacier, and guided walks on the toe of the glacier are available here.

Clearing skies over Snow Dome, another favorite mountain. — Clearing skies over Snow Dome, another favorite mountain, and the Dome Glacier. Snow Dome is the only spot on earth (outside of Antarctica) from which water flows to 3 different oceans.

Clear skies over Mt. Andromeda and the Athabasca Glacier. Time for Lupe to go climb Parker Ridge to see the Saskatchewan Glacier!

SPHP was elated! Lupe was not only going to get to go up Parker Ridge to see the Saskatchewan Glacier, but the scene would be even more fantastic with a dusting of new snow on the mountains. Lupe and SPHP headed back to the Parker Ridge turnout. Other people were already gathering there for the hike up as well. The climb along the excellent trail only takes 45 minutes or so to reach the crest of Parker Ridge.

The Saskatchewan Glacier is visible flowing down from the Columbia Icefield near the head of the huge valley on the other side of Parker Ridge. Except it wasn’t. The valley below was full of fog when Lupe first arrived. Lupe and SPHP waited for it to clear. SPHP chatted with a couple of guys from Edmonton. After 20 or 30 minutes, the fog started dissipating. Eventually it disappeared entirely.

Looking SE from Parker Ridge down into the lower portion of the glacial valley. The glacier (not shown) has retreated to the upper end of this long valley.

Looking S directly across the valley from Parker Ridge.

The Saskatchewan Glacier flows down from the Columbia Icefield.

Lupe and SPHP wandered around up on Parker Ridge for quite a while. Different vantage points gave slightly different perspectives. Due to the lay of the terrain, climbing higher up on the ridge seemed to just hide more of the glacier from view. Some of the best vantage points were achieved by following a trail towards the E along the edge of the valley going away from the glacier.

Saskatchewan Glacier from Parker Ridge 7-27-13

The E end of the Saskatchewan Glacier valley as seen from Parker Ridge. The Icefields Parkway Hwy 93 is visible way down below. — The E end of the Saskatchewan Glacier valley as seen from Parker Ridge. The Icefields Parkway Hwy 93 is faintly visible way down below.

Heading back down to the G6 along the Parker Ridge trail in northern Banff National Park, Canada.

On the way back down to the G6, Lupe was amidst a crowd of tourists coming up or going back down. Lupe made a few new acquaintances along the way. Once back to the G6, Lupe and SPHP headed N again on Icefields Parkway Hwy 93 over Sunwapta Pass (the border between Banff and Jasper National Parks). SPHP drove on down to the Icefields Centre again, but this time turned off the opposite side of the Icefields Parkway and went down to the parking lots below the Athabasca Glacier.

The parking lots were 80% full and there were a lot of people around. Not exactly a wilderness experience, but where else can you drive practically up to the toe of a big glacier? A short trail led Lupe to a viewpoint well short of the glacier’s edge. Fences and lots of signs warning of the extreme dangers posed by glaciers blocked any further advance. It was all typical over-the-top hype that applies to everything these days, but whatever. (Drizzle on Jersey turnpike! Millions affected! Take appropriate precautions and stay tuned for further updates!)

Toe of the Athabasca Glacier, Canada 7-27-13

Lupe near the toe of the Athabasca Glacier, Jasper National Park, Canada 7-27-13

People on the Athabasca Glacier. Presumably they bought tickets at the Icefields Centre to one of the guided walks on the glacier.

The Athabasca Glacier was making its own weather. A strong, chill wind blew down off it into Lupe’s face. Away from the glacier, summer had returned. Close to it, cold locked in the ice during winters long centuries ago made itself felt one more time.

Lupe returned to climb Parker Ridge on 7-29-14 for a second time during her 2014 Dingo Vacation to the Beartooths and Canadian Rockies. Click on the Parker Ridge link to see Lupe’s post on that ascent!

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Parker Ridge Trail & the Saskatchewan Glacier, Banff National Park, Alberta, Canada (7-29-14)

This is SPHP’s favorite short day hike in the Canadian Rockies! If you only have a couple of hours to spend while in the area (simply tragic!), this is the hike to take. The Parker Ridge trailhead is located 2.5 miles S of the Banff and Jasper National Parks boundary at Sunwapta Pass. The trailhead is at a small parking lot immediately adjacent to the southbound side of the Icefields Parkway Hwy 93.

Lupe set off from the trailhead at 9:43 AM on this clear, calm day. The temperature was already a very pleasant 63 degrees F. The 2.7 km trail to the top of Parker Ridge starts out just below tree line. It immediately starts to switchback up the ridge through a scattered forest of small conifers. The trail climbs steadily the entire way at a pretty easy pace, rising above tree line about halfway up. Total elevation gain is about 250 meters (820 feet).

Lupe on Parker Ridge, Banff NP, Canada, on 7-29-14. This photo looks E down the canyon and away from the Saskatchewan Glacier.

Once the trail reaches the crest of Parker Ridge, it continues a short distance to a series of viewpoints along the steep edge of the huge valley to the S. While the scenery is gorgeous in all directions, the main attraction is the spectacular view of the Saskatchewan Glacier flowing down into this valley from the Columbia Icefield. Continuing along the trail just a short distance heading E, away from the glacier, actually gets you to the best views of the glacier due to the curvature of the valley and topography of Parker Ridge.

Although the views are gorgeous in all directions, the main attraction on Parker Ridge is the view of the Saskatchewan Glacier. — Although the views are gorgeous in all directions, the main attraction on Parker Ridge is the fabulous view of the Saskatchewan Glacier.

Lupe, of course, was very cooperative in posing for a few photos with the Saskatchewan glacier. She stayed up on Parker Ridge quite a while enjoying the fabulous scenery and keeping a sharp eye out for marmots. Although there had been only a few vehicles at the trailhead when Lupe started out, before long people started arriving in droves. When Lupe got back to the trailhead just before noon, the parking lot along the Icefields Parkway Hwy 93 was nearly full.

P1050358 — Lupe on Parker Ridge, Banff National Park, Alberta, Canada on 7-29-14

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Parker Ridge & the Saskatchewan Glacier, The Icefields Center & the Athabasca Glacier, Banff National Park, Canada (7-27-13)

Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s 2014 Canadian Rockies & Beartooths Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.