Alaska – Page 34 – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

International Falls, Canada to Alaska (8-8-17)

Day 9 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

Skagway was hopping! Three more cruise ships had arrived in port overnight. Shops and sidewalks were jammed with tourists, saloon girls were conducting tours, and throngs of people were lined up waiting to take the scenic White Pass & Yukon Route railroad.

It was a gorgeous summer morning, but neither Lupe nor SPHP was feeling terribly ambitious yet. Both were a bit drained from Lupe’s successful long climb of AB Mountain (5,036 ft.) yesterday. Loop and SPHP took a stroll along a creek near the train station. The American Dingo could see the start of the long AB Mountain ridge from here.

On a morning stroll, Lupe inspects the White Pass & Yukon Route railroad train. Throngs of tourists were lined up at the train station nearby to take the scenic journey to White Pass and beyond. Photo looks SW.

Yesterday Lupe had spent a very long day climbing **AB Mountain**, the lower end of which is seen here beyond the White Pass & Yukon Route train. Photo looks N.

The morning shot by consumed by various errands. After breakfast, SPHP inquired at the Skagway Sea Terminal about the price to take the Alaska Marine Highway to Haines from here. The one hour trip was $32 for SPHP plus $56 for the G6. Something to think about. There were stops at a couple of shops for souvenirs and postcards, for supplies at the IGA, and trip to a dilapidated gas station for fuel for the G6.

Lupe had the most important errand of all. Yesterday the Carolina Dog had made it all the way to the true summit of AB Mountain (5,036 ft.), a feat which made her a member of the Arctic Sisterhood. Of course, as a new member Loop was anxious to check in at the Arctic Brotherhood hall in Skagway to inform them of her recent exploit. She was excited to let them know how happy and proud she was to join the gang, and find out what duties she might have. She also wanted SPHP to ask about any membership benefits she was entitled to, as well.

Proud new Arctic Sisterhood member, Lupe, reports in at the Arctic Brotherhood hall in Skagway.

The news was shocking! The Arctic Brotherhood had been defunct since 1924! The Arctic Brotherhood hall was now only a tourist information center. They knew nothing about the Arctic Sisterhood, and seemed not to have ever even heard of it.

Poor Lupe was so disillusioned! All that way to the true summit of AB Mountain, and now nothing at all to show for it. Looper’s soft ears drooped. SPHP could see in her eyes how downcast and disappointed she felt. SPHP tried hard to make it all better.

Why, you lucky Dingo! I never dreamed you would have it so good joining the Arctic Sisterhood!

Lucky! Have you completely lost your marbles, SPHP? If I weren’t an American Dingo, I would just cry! The Arctic Brotherhood is dead and gone. It’s ancient history! Even worse, there never was an Arctic Sisterhood. They don’t know a thing about it.

Silly Carolina Dog! Don’t you realize what this means?

Of course, I do. It means no awesome new friends with adventuring spirits to share future arctic exploits with. It means no cool Arctic Sisterhood official membership card. No fancy new Arctic Sisterhood adventure collar. Not even an Arctic Sisterhood top secret pawshake!

Oh, how you go on! What it means is, you are the newly minted sole and founding member of the Arctic Sisterhood! Why, you are President of the whole dang organization, or whatever you want to be called. You did get to the true summit of AB Mountain, you know.

Others must have, too, SPHP. Yet there isn’t an Arctic Sisterhood.

Well, it’s not your fault if no one else bothered to start it up. You can!

What fun is it, if there aren’t any other members?

Tell you what. I’ll be your first member. If you want more than that, you’ll have to think about recruiting some more. Maybe when we’re back home after this Dingo Vacation you could invite Rebecca Riordan? She was super nice to you yesterday on AB Mountain, and even has a grandma named Lupe. You might meet other worthy candidates on this Dingo Vacation, too.

Worthy candidates? You don’t really qualify, SPHP, and Rebecca never made it to the true summit of AB Mountain.

Are you kidding me? You haven’t been President 5 minutes and already no one meets your highfalutin standards. I was right there with you at the true summit, and Rebecca made it up the steepest part of the trail. Sean and Rebecca had to turn around so they didn’t miss their departure time aboard the Explorer of the Seas. It’s not Rebecca’s fault she didn’t have time enough to go all the way to the top.

Just starting out, you’re going to have to show some flexibility. Make us honorary members or something like that. If you want to be so cold as to weed us out after things are going great and you have plenty of members, I suppose you can. But that’s cold, real cold. What can you expect, though, from someone who is President of the Arctic Sisterhood?

Simply talking about the Arctic Sisterhood was having the desired effect. The Carolina Dog was perking up, looking happier already.

Maybe you’re right, SPHP. Except for one thing.

What’s that?

I don’t want to be President.

Oh, why not? I’m not going to be President, and Rebecca doesn’t even know about it yet.

You said I could be called anything I want to as founding member of the Arctic Sisterhood, right?

Yes …. I suppose I did …. so what do you want to be called?

Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood. Kind of has a nice peakbagging ring to it, don’t you think?

It does. Not to mention the humility angle. This is all kind of going straight to that noggin of yours, isn’t it? Why do I get the feeling I’m about to be ruled with an iron paw?

What’s new and different about that?

Oh, yeah. Hmmm. Got me there. Good point! I ought to warn Rebecca.

OK, now that that’s settled, what do you think the Arctic Sisterhood should do first, SPHP? Any suggestions?

Yes indeed. I think your first official act as Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood should be to go on another adventure.

Oh, I don’t know, SPHP. I’m sort of tired after AB Mountain yesterday. Besides, the day is half shot already. Wasn’t this going to be a rest day?

Nope, and there’s a perfect place to go to nearby, Loop, err, I mean Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood. Say, do you mind if I just call you Lupe most of the time except during official membership meetings, special occasions, and such? Your new title is kind of a mouthful.

This is a special occasion! A very special one! It’s the first day of the new Arctic Sisterhood! However, since it’s just you and me, SPHP, Lupe is fine for now as long as you show proper decorum when others are present.

Gee, thanks. I’ll try to remember that. Anyway, as I was saying, there is a great adventure that’s not too hard, and not too far away. Remember your friend Australian Adventurer Luke Hall who you met up on Gunsight Mountain last year? He suggested this adventure. It’s called International Falls.

There’s a trail along a beautiful stream with a lovely series of cascades and waterfalls. Only 1,000 feet of elevation gain to where the trail fades away, but it’s possible to wander farther to an overlook with some great glacier-clad mountain views. None of it is really difficult except for a short steep stretch at the very start. The adventure starts in Canada, but the trail soon crosses the US border into Alaska. What do you say?

You’re absolutely right, SPHP! We should do some kind of memorable outdoor adventure on the Arctic Sisterhood’s first day. International Falls sounds gorgeous and not too strenuous. I like it. If there’s still time, let’s do it!

Lupe and SPHP were soon on the way out of Skagway on the South Klondike Highway (No. 98). Shortly after reaching the end of the steep, long climb past US Customs to the high point where the highway reaches the Tormented Valley W of White Pass, the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood crossed the Canadian border gracing British Columbia with her presence.

SPHP parked the G6 at the second, lower big pullout on the W (L) side of the highway. (3:38 PM, 64°F) Lupe was only a fraction of a kilometer into British Columbia. Canadian Customs was still 7.5 miles (12 km) farther N. From the edge of an embankment beside the pullout, the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood peered more than 100 feet down into a valley to the W.

Two small lakes were in the valley, connected by a stream. The larger, upstream lake was to the N. Across the valley, another stream flowed down a long, rocky slope of stunted dark green conifers. This stream cascaded down a series of waterfalls to a light green alluvial fan where it joined forces with the stream from the larger lake to the N. Captain William Moore Creek, shown on the map as the name of the combined streams, flowed S to the smaller lake.

This whole area looked heavily glaciated, having a scraped down to bedrock appearance typical of the Tormented Valley. The upper spires of high sharp peaks were seen some distance to the SW.

The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood arrives in British Columbia for her first look at the International Falls area. She’s at the higher pullout on the W side of the South Klondike Highway here. The actual trailhead was one pullout slightly farther N, a bit closer to the lake seen below. Photo looks NW.

The International Falls trail follows the R (N) side of the stream seen coming down the long slope across the valley. It goes all the way up well beyond the apparent saddle at Center. Photo looks W.

Part of the smallest lake, little more than a pond, is in view on the L. High sharp peaks are in the distance. Photo looks SW.

The start of the International Falls trail is in the foreground. It can also be seen on the alluvial fan below. Photo looks W.

The hardest part of the whole International Falls trail was just getting down from the highway to the creek in the valley below the trailhead safely. Starting out, the trail was only moderately steep, and Lupe could have followed several different worn paths. They all led to a single stupidly steep eroded route going down the lower part of the embankment.

Looking down from the lip of the really steep part. Yeah, the trail heads right on down over the edge into the bushes, which SPHP made extensive use of as hand holds. Photo looks W.

Near the bottom, a rope fastened somewhere above was strung down the worst part of the trail. Without it, SPHP’s International Falls adventure might have been over already with a dramatic, not too enjoyable, gravity-assisted splat. The rope would have been even better, if it had been another 10 or 15 feet longer, but SPHP did manage to arrive in one piece at the bottom of the embankment.

Perhaps the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood sprouted wings and flew down when SPHP wasn’t looking. However she did it, she was standing next to Captain William Moore Creek when SPHP turned around to face the stream.

The larger lake toward the N from partway down the embankment below the trailhead. Photo looks NW.

The rope assisted portion of the trail from the bottom of the embankment. It’s steeper than it looks!

Using her super powers as Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood, Lupe magically appears safely down next to Captain William Moore Creek. Photo looks SSW.

Lupe was somewhat intimidated by the width of Captain William Moore Creek, but the beautiful stream was actually quite shallow this time of year. SPHP crossed first, to show Looper how easy it was. Even the deepest part was only knee deep on SPHP. Of course, knee deep is swimming depth for the Carolina Dog. Nevertheless, Lupe was encouraged by SPHP’s success and made her way across.

Loop pauses at an island partway across Captain William Moore Creek. The steep trail down the lower part of the embankment is seen on the L. Getting down that embankment is the hardest part of the whole International Falls trail. Once across the stream, everything else is easy. Photo looks ESE.

Fording the stream. Only a few inches deep here!

Having made it across Captain William Moore Creek, Lupe and SPHP were in for a gorgeous afternoon and evening of easy hiking amid dazzlingly spectacular scenery. The hardest part was over already! Lupe led the way along the American Falls trail across the the alluvial fan, and started up the long, gentle slope to the W.

Above the alluvial fan, the trail became braided in bushy areas interspersed with stands of stunted conifers. Lupe stuck to the paths farthest S, which were closest to the stream coming down from the W. She soon reached the first notable cascade along the American Falls trail.

Looper near the first notable cascade along the International Falls trail. **Feather Peak (5,889 ft.)** (1,795 m) is the pointy peak in the distance at Center. The rounded hill on the R is **High Point 4,731** (1,442 m). Photo looks SW.

In addition to the superb scenery, the continual soothing roar of the cascading stream was a highlight of the International Falls trail. Photo looks SW.

The trail wasn’t always right by the stream. Here it passes through a bushy sub-alpine area bordered by stunted conifers. **High Point 4731** (1,442 m) is on the L. Photo looks WSW.

Of course, the higher Lupe went, the better the views got. The American Dingo came to many lovely waterfalls, cascades and rapids.

One of many beautiful waterfalls along the International Falls trail.

Somewhere along the way, 0.5 mile more or less from the highway, Lupe left British Columbia crossing the US border into Alaska. No sign existed to indicate exactly where the border was, but it was still rather cool to cross from one country to another traveling the International Falls trail.

By the time Lupe made it this far, she had crossed the US border from British Columbia into Alaska. No sign was seen indicating the actual location of the border. Photo looks SW.

Although the International Falls trail starts in Canada, the great majority of the trail is in Alaska. Lupe still had a long way to go from here.

The stream eventually split into 3 tributaries. The trail turned more to the NW following the largest tributary. Lupe was now climbing some of the steepest terrain of the whole journey, but it wasn’t bad at all. The rate of climb was still moderate. Loopster was soon approaching the tallest waterfall along the whole trail.

Approaching the tallest waterfall along the International Falls trail. Photo looks NW.

*You were right, SPHP! The International Falls trail is so beautiful! This is a great first adventure for the Arctic Sisterhood. So easy, too!*

This was the last big waterfall along the International Falls trail. Photo looks WNW.

Since the creek had divided lower down, the tallest waterfall did not have quite as much flow as other falls Lupe had already come to, but it plunged over a wall of rock in such lovely fashion Loop wanted SPHP to take a couple pictures of her here for the Arctic Sisterhood archives.

A nice shot for Lupe’s Arctic Sisterhood archives.

Above the tallest waterfall, Lupe paused to look back at the view to the E to see how much progress she’d made. She could see the South Klondike Highway where she’d started out from, and a line of mountains beyond the rocky, rugged terrain of the Tormented Valley.

Looking ESE from above the tallest waterfall. The South Klondike Highway is in view. This whole area up to the base of the mountains is part of the Tormented Valley.

There were still more waterfalls, cascades and rapids above the tallest waterfall, but the terrain was beginning to change. The trail was still gaining elevation steadily, but more slowly than before. The waterfalls, though still beautiful, were shrinking in size.

There were still more waterfalls, cascades and rapids above the tallest waterfall. Lupe takes a little break at a particularly nice spot. Photo looks W.

As Lupe continued on, the terrain was gradually leveling out. Here the creek spreads out beautifully over an area of flat rocks. Photo looks W.

Loop on her first adventure as the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood.

Look at that big flat rock beyond Looper! There were countless gorgeous spots like that to take a break or have a picnic. Photo looks NW.

Eventually the land to the W was rising so gradually that Lupe reached the end of the waterfall territory. The International Falls trail still went on for a while, though. This was pretty territory, too, just somewhat different from what came before. Lupe and SPHP were having such a good time that Loop kept right on going.

Instead of waterfalls, Lupe now came to a series of ponds and little lakes connected by the creek. Countless small tributaries babbled down from the hillsides. Loop continued onward staying N of the ponds and lakes. She sometimes had to cross some of the side streams. None of them were very large.

Above the waterfall territory, Lupe was in near treeless alpine. Somewhere up on that enormous hill is the Canadian border. Photo looks NNW

Looper along the N side of one of the first ponds she came to. Photo looks S.

Lupe looking tiny in the vast alpine world above all the waterfalls. Photo looks W.

Maybe it was just the way the evening sunlight was reflecting off all the little lakes, ponds and streams, but this vast alpine tundra beyond the waterfalls seemed even more beautiful. SPHP wished Lupe had more time left in the day, there were so many places one might explore!

This vast alpine tundra with all its sparkling little lakes, ponds and streams was just stunningly beautiful! Lupe and SPHP were going to keep exploring as long as the evening light held out.

*International Falls is a Dingo Paradise, SPHP!*

Lupe stuck to the N (R) as she continued upstream heading for the saddle ahead.

Some of the small lakes were simply drop dead gorgeous!

Wow! So pretty! Continuing on into the lake country was the right decision. Photo looks SW.

Another look with help from the telephoto lens.

The International Falls trail was gradually fading away. Eventually it would be lost for good. That didn’t really matter. The terrain was so open, it was easy to see where to go. Lupe kept heading NW toward a saddle that seemed to always retreat a little higher and farther away every time it appeared she ought to be getting close.

The International Falls trail is faint, but still seen here on the right. Before long it would disappear entirely. Didn’t matter, Lupe kept going. Photo looks WSW.

Now at the shallow NW end of the same little lake. Photo looks S.

Looking back to the SE. The trail can still be seen on the L.

As the Carolina Dog journeyed farther into the lake country, new glories started to appear. Lupe began getting much improved views of some of the more distant higher mountains. She could see Feather Peak (5,889 ft.) (1,795 m) to the S. The upper snow and glacier clad portions of Mount Hoffman (6,079 ft.) (1,853 m) appeared ahead to the NW.

As Lupe continued her explorations NW, she began to get better views of some of the higher peaks of the region. **Feather Peak** is the pyramid in the distance near Center. Photo looks SSW.

**Feather Peak** with help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks SSW.

The upper snow and glacier clad portions of **Mount Hoffman** (L) were coming into view. Photo looks NW.

Soon Looper could see Mount Cleveland (6,362 ft.), too.

**Feather Peak** (L) and **Mount Cleveland** (R) in the distance. Photo looks SSW.

There wasn’t time to do it today, but if Loop ever returns to International Falls, she might try to climb **High Point 4803** (1,464 m) (Center) NW of Feather Peak on the **topo map**. Doesn’t look hard and the views would be stupendous! Photo looks SW.

**Mount Cleveland** (L) and **High Point 4,803** (1,464 m) (R). Photo looks SW.

Lupe came to many false “summits” of the saddle she was trying to reach. Somewhat higher ground always appeared farther ahead. The American Dingo entered more rugged territory traveling over a series of low, rocky ridges. These ridges and the gaps between them were nearly all oriented SW/NE much like the gashes Lupe had come to only yesterday up on the AB Mountain ridge.

This region of low ridges was also where Lupe came to the largest of the small lakes. Every ridge Lupe crossed revealed new, beautiful territory beyond it. This sort of alpine high country is Lupe’s favorite of all. She sniffed and explored everywhere, pausing frequently to gaze out over the paradise ahead from each succeeding ridge.

Lupe reaches the region of larger lakes scattered between the low rocky ridges. **Mount Hoffman** is ahead in the distance on the R. Photo looks NW.

**High Point 4803** (L) and **Mount Hoffman** (R edge). Photo looks W.

**Feather Peak** (L) and **Mount Cleveland** (R) looking over one of the larger lakes from one of the low ridges. Photo looks SSW.

Lupe loves high alpine terrain like this. And why not? Such super fun to explore! SPHP was having a blast, too! **Feather Peak** (L), **Mount Cleveland** (Center), and **High Point 4803** (1,464 m) (R). Photo looks SSW.

Another look from another ridge overlooking another scenic lake. **Feather Peak** (L) and **Mount Cleveland** (R). Photo looks S.

Part of the same lake. **Mount Cleveland** (L) and **High Point 4803** (1,464 m) (Center). Photo looks SW.

A massive mountain to the N blocked any further views in that direction. It didn’t look hard to climb, though Lupe didn’t have time to do it today. The summit, which was not in view, was across the border a short distance into Canada. The topo map showed the summit of this mountain, Peak 6053 (1,845 m), overlooking a vast snowfield or glacier.

None of all that could be seen from down here, but the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood agreed Peak 6053 (1,845 m) should be kept in mind for future Arctic Sisterhood expeditions.

This massive mountain is the S slope of **Peak 6053 (1,845 m)**. The summit is not in view. This would be another fantastic non-technical, but far more ambitious peak than **High Point 4803** to climb in the International Falls area. The topo map shows that the summit overlooks a vast snowfield to the N. Might be super awesome! Photo looks N.

Lupe crosses a snowbank S of **Peak 6053** (1,845 m). Photo looks NNW.

Loopster went on and on, crossing more rocky ridges, coming to more sparkling lakes and ponds, leaping over more trickling streams. Finally, the end was in sight. A large boulder sat atop the last ridge, it was the high point of the saddle she had been heading toward all this time.

Loopster went on and on, passing more beautiful lakes and ponds, crossing trickling streams, melting snow banks, going over one rocky ridge after another. Photo looks S.

This super clear pond was a different color from all the rest and so amazingly beautiful! Photo looks NW.

At last, a lone boulder (Center) could be spied in the distance atop the final ridge. This was the high point of the saddle Lupe had been looking for all this time. Photo looks NW.

Lupe and SPHP pressed on to that boulder on the final ridge. Beyond it, the ground sloped down ever more steeply toward a gigantic canyon. At the bottom of this canyon was the famed Chilkoot Trail of Klondike gold rush days, which follows the Taiya River here on the way from Dyea near Skagway to Bennett Lake.

None of the lower regions of the canyon could be seen from the boulder, so Lupe went another 100 yards farther down the slope. It became clear she would have to lose more elevation than it seemed to be worth to really be able to see way down anywhere close to the bottom. SPHP called a halt. This was good enough.

The scenic prize the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood had come to claim was stretched out before her beyond the immense canyon – a wondrous pristine white and shadow blue world of snow, ice and wild jagged mountains.

On the way to the boulder on the final ridge. Photo looks WSW.

100 yards beyond the boulder on the final ridge, SPHP called a halt here. At the unseen bottom of the huge canyon just ahead, the Chilkoot Trail, famous since the old Klondike gold rush days, follows the Taiya River. **Mount Hoffman (6,079 ft.)** is the high point R of Center. Photo looks WNW.

Beyond the canyon was a wild, remote world of snow white glaciers, and jagged shadow blue mountains. Photo looks SW.

The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood and SPHP spent 20 minutes together gazing upon the wondrous scene while the sun sank slowly toward the icy solitude of the Alaskan wilderness.

The **Saussure Glacier** (R) with help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks WNW.

**Mount Hoffman (6,079 ft.)** (L) with help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks NW.

With perhaps 2 hours to go before sundown, Lupe returned to the big boulder on the ridge. She climbed up on this landmark for a last look around.

Loop on the big boulder on the final ridge. In a way, this might be considered the far W end of the International Falls trail, although the trail itself had disappeared long before Lupe got this far. **Feather Peak (5,889 ft.)** at Center. Photo looks SSE.

The final glorious moment on the boulder on the last ridge W before starting back.

On the return trip there was need for some speed. Sunset was only a couple of hours away. Crossing all the low ridges near the beautiful lakes had been a gorgeous route, but this time Lupe and SPHP stayed farther N. Lupe actually gained elevation, and held it for quite a distance. For more than a mile, she could look back and still see the big boulder she’d been on at the last ridge W.

The return trip was pure fun! It was all wonderful and exquisitely beautiful. Lupe ran and explored and played wild Alaskan Dingo, while SPHP marched on.

Starting back. Lupe and SPHP stayed higher and farther N for the first part of the return trip, avoiding some of the ups and downs of the maze of low ridges down by the lakes. **High Point 4803** at Center. **Mount Cleveland (6,362 ft.)** in the distance on the L. Photo looks SSW.

You know, SPHP, I’ve been looking at that **Feather Peak** for hours now. Maybe we could even climb that one sometime? Put that in the notes for the Arctic Sisterhood’s future reference too, please. Photo looks SSW.

Loop was back on the International Falls trail long before reaching the waterfalls. She got to see all the waterfalls one more time, but they were now in the shadow of the big slope she was coming down from the W.

The last rays of sunlight were disappearing from the mountain peaks when Lupe reached the G6. The Arctic Sisterhood’s first ever expedition had been a grand success! At first Lupe was so pleased, she forgot how long it had been since she’d had much to eat. She finally did remember, though, and Dingoed down an entire can of Alpo in nothing flat.

The Most Weary Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood then curled up on her pile of pillows and blankets. SPHP pulled her blankie over her. Loop went out like a light, beginning the process of gathering strength for the Arctic Sisterhood’s next big adventure. Which was a good thing, for that next big adventure was just around the corner.

Happy times in the Alaskan wilderness at the end of the International Falls trail. 8-8-17

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AB Mountain – Lupe Joins the Arctic Sisterhood! Skagway, Alaska (8-7-17)

Day 8 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

Loopster was right! When Monday morning arrived, Skagway bore no resemblance to the virtual ghost town it had been at dusk on Sunday night. It was still early. Skagway wasn’t terribly busy yet, but you could just feel that the whole town would soon be teeming with activity. Before that happened, Lupe and SPHP took a walk down to the Skagway Sea Terminal for a look around.

Loop at at small park on the way to the Skagway Sea Terminal.

This old engine used take trains from Skagway over White Pass to Carcross and Whitehorse in the Yukon.

Skagway is located on the Taiya Inlet of the Lynn Canal, an arm of the North Pacific Ocean. Photo looks SW.

Three big cruise ships were in port, plus a yacht named Playpen and a number of smaller boats tucked away in a separate little cove.

Lupe at the Taiya Inlet. Cruise ship Explorer of the Seas is on the L. Photo looks SSW.

Radiance of the Seas, one of three large cruise ships in port. The almost identical Explorer of the Seas is docked right behind it.

The yacht Playpen and the 3rd big cruise ship.

Lots of smaller boats were tucked safely away in this separate cove. Photo looks NE.

Seeing the ocean and the beautiful mountains along the Taiya Inlet was fun. However, Lupe had already figured out that just like yesterday’s bush pilot flight-seeing tour to Virginia Falls leaving from Muncho Lake, SPHP would announce that taking a cruise on one of these luxurious cruise ships wasn’t in the budget, either.

That was OK. American Dingoes are flexible. They’re open to all sorts of ideas. Lupe had seen another less expensive entertainment possibility on the walk through town. Maybe SPHP could be talked into this one?

*SPHP, look at how good I’m being, and how pretty I am next to all these beautiful flowers! You’ll take me out to the Red Onion, won’t you, please? It’s right across the street, just follow me!*

Lupe had hopes for some high times at the Red Onion!

Lupe was in for high times, alright, but not at the Red Onion Saloon, at least not now. Today Lupe’s high times were going to involve 4,740 feet of elevation gain climbing AB Mountain (5,036 ft.). She was going to join the Arctic Sisterhood!

In 1899, back in the Klondike gold rush days, the Arctic Brotherhood had been founded by 11 gold prospectors on a steamship headed for Skagway from Seattle. The Arctic Brotherhood was originally a fraternal order whose members pledged to assist one another on the way to and while at the goldfields near Dawson City in the Yukon.

The in-land journey to the goldfields started at Skagway, where a unique two story hall decorated on the exterior with driftwood was built as the Arctic Brotherhood’s headquarters. For a while, the Arctic Brotherhood became very popular and expanded rapidly, at one point having over 10,000 members and up to 34 different camps distributed throughout the Yukon and southern Alaska.

A NNE trending ridge starting at Yakutania Point just W of Skagway rises from Taiya Inlet some 5,036 feet to a mountaintop more than 5 miles away. The letters “AB” appear on this mountain when snow conditions are right, so the mountain became known as A.B. Mountain or Arctic Brotherhood Mountain. It’s sometimes said in modern times that climbing AB Mountain makes one a member of the Arctic Brotherhood.

The real Arctic Brotherhood never accepted female members, but SPHP didn’t want to worry Lupe with such trivial details. As far as SPHP was concerned, if the plucky Carolina Dog could get to the top of the mountain today, she was going to become a member of the Arctic Sisterhood. SPHP told her as much.

Of course, after all her wonderful adventures in the Yukon and Alaska both last year and yet to come on this 2017 Dingo Vacation, Lupe was excited about the prospect of joining the Arctic Sisterhood! She was eager to get going right away!

SPHP found the small trailhead for AB Mountain on the S (L) side of the road to Dyea almost immediately after the road turned to gravel. On the opposite side of the road Lupe spotted a small sign saying A.B. Mountain next to the start of the Skyline Trail. (9:30 AM, 59°F)

*Come on, SPHP! This is it, the Skyline Trail to AB Mountain!*

For the first 2.25 miles, the trail was wide and easy to follow. It varied quite a bit on how steep it was, with both fairly steep and almost level sections. Lupe even came to a few dips. Overall, Lupe gained elevation at a moderate pace.

This early part of the trail went through a forest. Not far from the trailhead, Lupe explored a short side spur leading off the main trail to an exposed boulder. This boulder provided a view back toward Skagway and the Taiya Inlet. Everywhere else the only views were of the forest.

The wide, well worn trail to AB Mountain starts off in a forest.

Early in the trek, a boulder at the end of a short spur off the main trail provides this view of the Taiya Inlet. This is the only viewpoint for more than 2 miles. Photo looks SSW.

Shortly after returning to the main trail, Lupe crossed the first of two small streams.

Lupe wades in the first small stream that crosses the trail.

Continuing past the first small stream, the forest was tall and thick for a long way.

After crossing the first stream, the trail went a long way through the forest before eventually crossing a second small stream. Beyond the second stream, the trail began to steepen rapidly. It was soon so steep that SPHP was often grabbing branches, tree trunks, rocks – whatever was available for assistance. The steep climb didn’t bother Lupe, though.

At the start of this steep section, the trail had still been in thick forest. As Lupe gained elevation, however, the situation began to change. Tall bushes and Devil’s club mingled in among the trees. Lupe even saw a few blueberries and crowberries. Gradually, the trees became smaller and fewer. The tall bushes and Devil’s club prevailed. Views were now starting to open up.

As Lupe got higher, the trees began to thin. Tall bushes and Devil’s club began to dominate, and views started opening up. Photo looks SSW toward Skagway and Taiya Inlet.

SPHP had previously read online about an obstacle that Lupe had to be fast approaching. Somewhere along this steep section of the trail, trip reports stated there was a rope needed to get up a particularly slippery, dangerous spot. How bad was this spot? Was it a small cliff? Would Lupe even be able to get past it? SPHP was worried that the rope might be as far as the Carolina Dog could go.

Lupe finally did reach a yellow rope dangling 40 or 50 feet down a long, smooth-surfaced rock. The rock was plenty steep, but this wasn’t nearly as bad as SPHP had feared it might be. No exposure, no insurmountable obstacles. In fact, the American Dingo could scamper up and down the rock at will. The rope was a tremendous help to SPHP. With its assistance SPHP simply walked right on up the rock no problem at all.

Lupe reaches the dreaded rope section. It turned out to be nothing to worry about at all. The rope made it easy for SPHP to walk right on up. Lupe was perfectly capable of scampering up and down the steep rock at will without it.

Lupe kept climbing. SPHP had to stop frequently to catch breath. Lupe was starting to get above all the trees. The trail remained very steep. Even the tall bushes and Devil’s club were starting to give way to shorter vegetation. A high point up ahead looked like the start of easier terrain, and some fabulous sweeping views.

The trail remained very steep above the rope, but this high point eventually came into view promising both easier terrain and sweeping views ahead.

Starting to get above not only the trees, but the tall bushes, too. Skagway is on the L. Yakutania Point and the forest Lupe had come through on the way up are at Center. Dyea Point is the skinny peninsula on the R. Photo looks SSW along Taiya Inlet.

The climb up to the first sweeping viewpoint was farther than it looked, but Lupe and SPHP made it. The terrain was a lot easier here. The vegetation was reduced to tundra plants. Nothing obstructed the glorious views which were absolutely amazing in virtually every direction.

Lupe reaches the first sweeping viewpoint above the steepest section of the trail to AB Mountain. Dyea is in the valley at lower R. **Parsons Peak (5,600 ft.)** towers across the bay on the L. Photo looks WSW.

Lupe met two people at this first sweeping viewpoint. Sean and Rebecca Riordan from Brooklyn, New York were here enjoying the grand views. They had come to Skagway aboard the Explorer of the Seas, which Lupe had seen docked down at Skagway this morning. Sean and Rebecca were super friendly and nice to Lupe. Rebecca said her grandma was named Lupe, too!

Lupe met Sean & Rebecca Riordan from Brooklyn, New York at this first sweeping viewpoint. Photo looks E.

Sean and Rebecca were super friendly and nice to Lupe. Photo looks E.

Rebecca and Lupe with Taiya Inlet in the background. Photo looks S.

Sean and Lupe together. Sean was looking forward to pizza and drinks aboard the Explorer of the Seas this evening. Lupe thought maybe she’d join Sean if the Red Onion Saloon didn’t work out with SPHP. Photo looks N.

Sean, Rebecca and SPHP had a good time chatting for quite a while. Lupe certainly didn’t mind taking a break being petted and loved.

Relaxing with Sean and Rebecca Riordan before they depart for Skagway and pizza and drinks aboard the luxurious Explorer of the Seas. Photo looks SSW.

Sean and Rebecca had to be back down to the Explorer of the Seas in time for an 8:00 PM departure, so eventually Lupe and SPHP had to bid them farewell and bon voyage. If the American Dingo hadn’t been committed to joining the Arctic Sisterhood today, she might well have followed Sean and Rebecca down for pizza and drinks aboard the luxurious Explorer of the Seas.

As it was, it was time to get moving again. The summit of AB Mountain was still a long way off, not even in sight yet. Up ahead, Lupe could see two rounded higher hills along the ridge. The trail led toward a closer wall of rock, as if destined to skirt these hills to the W (L).

After Sean and Rebecca headed down, Lupe and SPHP continued on looking for the summit of AB Mountain. Two rounded hills were in sight. The trail led toward the wall of rock partly in view on the L. Photo looks NNE.

The trail was no longer as wide, well-worn and easy to follow as it had been way back down in the forest. SPHP somehow lost it, and wound up on a boulder field below the E side of the rock wall. About half way through the boulder field, people were seen up on top of the rock wall. Apparently the trail was actually up there.

It was slow going on this boulder field below the wall of rock on the L. The trail was actually up on top, but SPHP had somehow lost it. Photo looks NNE.

Lupe and SPHP made it past the boulder field, and up onto the ridgeline beyond the two rounded hills. The trail continued winding along the top of the ridge, and after a while Lupe could see two distant high points ahead. The closer, lower one was marked on the topo map as the location of Hump Benchmark.

After following the ridge a long way beyond the two rounded hills, two distant high points appear ahead in shadow. The closer, lower one is the location of Hump Benchmark on the topo map. SPHP thought the summit of AB Mountain was the higher point beyond it. Photo looks NNE.

It was still a long way to Hump Benchmark, never mind the summit. Lupe continued up the ridgeline. Sometimes the trail was easy to follow, sometimes cairns marked the way, sometimes there was no indication at all of where to go except onward and upward. Lupe was still gaining elevation steadily. The views were fantastic on all sides.

Lupe continued gaining elevation along the giant ridgeline. The views were simply tremendous on all sides! Photo looks NNW.

Looking NE with help from the telephoto lens.

The East Fork of the Skagway River valley. Photo looks ESE with help from the telephoto lens.

The Reid Creek valley. Photo looks SE with help from the telephoto lens.

**Parson Peak (5,600 ft.)** (far L) from the AB Mountain ridge. Photo looks W.

Looking WNW with help from the telephoto lens.

Lupe passing by a small pond up on the ridge. This pond is shown at 4,186 feet (1,276 m) on the topo map. Still 1,050 feet of elevation gain to go from here! Photo looks ENE.

SPHP was getting tired. It seemed like Lupe had already gone a long, long way, but it was clear she still had significant ground left to cover. Several groups of people had either started out earlier in the morning, or had passed Loop and SPHP on the way up. Every now and then one of these groups was met making their way back down.

No one seemed to know how far it was to the summit of AB Mountain (5,036 ft.), although SPHP was pretty certain Lupe had been seeing the summit beyond the Hump from various vantage points along the ridge. However, everyone had turned back before getting there.

Only the last couple of guys Lupe met, one from England and the other from New Zealand, told SPHP they had been to the summit. They had found a large cairn at the top. They claimed it was only another 30 to 60 minutes away from where Lupe was now.

Two people approach Lupe on their way back down. Lupe met several such groups, but only the last two guys from England and New Zealand said they had made it to the summit of AB Mountain. In the distance on the L is the apparent summit, the high point just to its R is Hump Benchmark, or simply “the Hump” as SPHP came to call it. Photo looks NNE.

The Brit and the New Zealander had lied. Not on purpose maybe, perhaps they had gotten to the cairn that quickly, but SPHP couldn’t get there that fast. Not even close. An hour zipped by and the summit, wherever it was, still didn’t appear to be anywhere nearby. Lupe wasn’t even to the Hump yet.

The trail had all but vanished. Lupe rarely even saw a cairn. Another problem now existed. The character of the long ridge was changing. Lupe came to a series of long gashes. Each gash extended all the way across from one side of the big ridge to the other, forcing Loop to find a way around or through each one.

These gashes were all oriented SW/NE. They seemed like they had been created by a giant wielding a dull knife to slice a series of cuts partway into the ridge, as if it were a loaf of bread. Each cut amounted to a gap, and at the edge of each gap Lupe found herself at the top of a wall of rock 10 to 30 feet high. Sometimes there were relatively easy routes down into the gashes and up the other side. Sometimes there weren’t.

The gashes made this part of the ridge an interesting trek, but really slowed SPHP’s progress down. Lupe sometimes had to go way around the end of a gash. Usually it was too steep to go around the W side, but it was always possible to get around the E side, provided Lupe and SPHP down climbed enough.

Instead of gaining elevation steadily, Loop sniffed and explored her way along a twisting up and down off-trail route wherever the terrain appeared most favorable. Some of the gaps she crossed were full of loose rock and boulders. Others contained snow banks.

Lupe discovers a snow bank in one of the gashes.

Having to find ways around rock walls like the one on the R that extended clear across the ridge, made for an interesting, but long, tiring route.

Lupe down in another gash near the steep W end. The Irene Glacier is seen on the L. Photo looks NNW.

Irene Glacier (L). Photo looks NNW with help from the telephoto lens.

At last, Lupe was nearing the Hump. However, the biggest, deepest gash yet appeared between her and the Hump. Looper had to lose 150 feet of elevation going around the far NE end of this gash. Then it was a long climb up a series of benches to reach the top of the Hump from the E.

The Hump is dead ahead. Unfortunately, there is an unseen deep gash between here and there. Lupe had to down climb at least 150 feet of elevation going around the NE (R) end. Part of Mount Clifford (5,696 ft.), is seen ahead on the R. Photo looks N.

East Fork of the Skagway River valley. Photo looks SE.

Loopster climbing the benches on the Hump. Photo looks NE.

In yet another gash on the way up the Hump.

Nearing the top of the Hump. Photo looks SSW.

East Fork of the Skagway River (L) from the Hump. Photo looks SE.

Part of Goat Lake is in view from the Hump. Photo looks NE.

When Lupe reached the top of the Hump, the weather was changing. All day long the sky had been slowly clouding up. Now clouds swept over the ridge to AB Mountain. Lupe and SPHP were periodically engulfed in fog, only to have sunshine reappear a few minutes later. The clouds sailing by came out of the W.

From the top of the Hump, Lupe could finally see the summit again. It wasn’t that far away! Loop had to lose some elevation to get there, but the terrain was now less rugged than it had been getting to the Hump. Lupe had an almost direct route to the summit!

From the the Hump, Lupe can see the summit of AB Mountain ahead! It isn’t that far away now, and the terrain is becoming easier again. Photo looks NNE.

Lupe enjoys a brief moment of sunshine as she closes in on the summit of AB Mountain. Photo looks N.

Looking back down the ridge as another cloud closes in. Dyea is nearly 5,000 feet below on the R. Photo looks SSW.

Looper looks down on Dyea. Photo looks SSW.

Almost there! It was exciting to think that Lupe was about to join the Arctic Sisterhood with a successful ascent of AB Mountain! Photo looks N.

Lupe and SPHP made it to the summit cairn on AB Mountain (5,036 ft.)! Another cloud was sweeping over the ridge. Nothing could be seen except the nearby terrain. The rest of the world was gray.

It was still a joyful moment! Lupe was at the top of AB Mountain. She had joined the Arctic Sisterhood! The long trek had been completely worth it. SPHP congratulated Lupe, shaking her paw and praising her persistent effort.

Lupe reaches the summit cairn on AB Mountain! Photo looks N.

The newest member of the Arctic Sisterhood stands proudly next to the summit cairn on AB Mountain. Photo looks N.

Lupe wondered if she was the first Carolina Dog to join the Arctic Sisterhood? SPHP said she might well be. This was a great honor for Looper and a notable achievement on behalf of all Carolina Dogs everywhere.

Lupe gained more than 4,740 feet of elevation and had traveled more than 5 miles from the trailhead to get here.

Lupe squints in bright light as the fog thins.

Lupe had been standing up at the summit cairn for 6 or 7 minutes when a hole in the clouds opened up a partial view to the N. SPHP was surprised to see another high point not even 0.2 mile away! It looked to be almost identical in elevation to where Lupe was at the cairn. Was it possible it was even higher? Probably not, since the cairn was here, but SPHP checked the topo map anyway.

Oh, good grief! That other high point to the N actually was the true summit of AB Mountain! The topo map showed the other high point as 1535 meters (5,036 feet) compared to 1532 meters (5,026 feet) where Loopster was standing at the cairn. No denying it. Assuming the topo map was correct, which one had to, that other high point was 10 feet higher. The map even showed the name AB Mountain right at that N high point.

After Lupe had been at the summit cairn 6 or 7 minutes, the clouds parted to reveal this other high point to the N. A check of the topo map revealed it was 10 feet higher than where the cairn was, and actually the true summit of AB Mountain. Photo looks N.

It was now 2 hours since the Englishman and New Zealander had told SPHP it was only 30 to 60 minutes to the summit of AB Mountain. Clearly they hadn’t bothered going over to the N high point. They’d only mentioned the cairn. It was getting rather late in the afternoon, and the weather was continuing to degrade with more clouds moving in.

No matter! Lupe was going to the true summit! It didn’t look hard to get there, and shouldn’t take long. No time to lose, though. SPHP explained to Looper that to make her ascent of AB Mountain and new membership in the Arctic Sisterhood official, she needed to tag that N high point.

SPHP didn’t have to tell her twice. Loop led the way to the true summit.

Lupe approaches a snow drift in a low spot on the way to AB Mountain’s true summit. Photo looks N.

Clouds obscured all views again as Lupe reached the true summit of AB Mountain. A small rock stuck in a crack atop a massive rock appeared to be the absolute highest point on AB Mountain (5,036 ft.). Lupe was happy to make her ascent and membership in the Arctic Sisterhood official by standing next to it. SPHP put one of her front paws on top of the little rock and it was done.

All official now! Lupe stands proudly next to the highest little rock on AB Mountain. Photo looks N.

First Carolina Dog ever at the true summit of AB Mountain? SPHP thought there was a good chance Lupe had that honor.

*So did I do it? Can I relax now? ……. Yep, you’re official now Miss Arctic Sisterhood!*

Lupe remained at the true summit of AB Mountain for more than 20 minutes. A 10 mph SW breeze blew a steady stream of fog across the mountaintop. Every now and then, a partial view to the NE was momentarily revealed. A few times Lupe saw blue sky and sunshine directly overhead, while surrounded by fog. Most of the time the summit was simply socked in. Loop never did see more than a faint outline of Mount Clifford, the next higher peak farther N along the ridge.

The American Dingo rested peacefully next to the little rock at the top of AB Mountain enjoying her status as the newest member of the Arctic Sisterhood. There were a couple of other rocks nearby competing closely for the title of true summit. After resting up and having some Taste of the Wild, Lupe tagged them, too. No cairn or registry was found.

The clouds parted enough to permit a few brief glimpses off to the NE while Lupe was at true summit of AB Mountain. Photo looks ENE.

The newest official member of the Arctic Sisterhood relaxes at the true summit of AB Mountain.

Looking SSW, the direction Lupe had come from and would have to return.

Final moments in the fog near the true summit of AB Mountain.

It was already early evening when Lupe and SPHP finally left the true summit of AB Mountain in a dark fog. Lupe returned briefly to the cairn at the false summit, but could see nothing.

Looking toward the false summit shortly after starting back. The cairn is up there somewhere. Lupe returned to it briefly. Photo looks S.

Lupe and SPHP hurried on due to the lateness of the hour. The long trek back was a happy one and most enjoyable. The solitude was unbroken. Lupe seemed energized by the cool clouds and now mostly downhill route. She ran and sniffed and explored far more than she had on the way up.

Fog prevailed much of the way, continuing to stream by from out of the WSW. Once in a while there were holes in the clouds. Dramatic glacier-clad mountain views popped into sight. Lupe bathed in sunlight on the beautiful ridge for anywhere from a few seconds to a few minutes before it all disappeared again.

For a long time, Lupe and SPHP worked in dense fog back past all the gashes cutting across the ridge. The Carolina Dog still faced significant down climbs to the NE, especially getting beyond the Hump. Once past all the gashes, Lupe generally stayed right on top of the ridgeline and had more luck finding the best routes. A few well-positioned cairns proved much more helpful pointing out the faint trail now than on the way up.

Lupe was in fog most of the way back down, but every so often holes in the clouds permitted a better look at her surroundings.

Coming to a large snowbank in another gash. Mountains and glaciers pop back into view. Photo looks SE.

Snow break! Time for a bit of frolicking!

Lupe pauses for a look at the valley of the East Fork of the Skagway River. Photo looks SE.

Zoomed in on some of the incredible peaks and glaciers. Photo looks SE.

A good look down a long stretch of the AB Mountain ridge. Lupe had met Sean and Rebecca many hours ago way down at the last lowest bump of the ridge in view on the R. Taiya Inlet is seen faintly beyond Lupe. Photo looks S.

After a while, the clouds became so thick no more breaks appeared. Lupe and SPHP continued lower traveling through dense fog. It wasn’t until Lupe was working her way down the steep section that she lost enough elevation to emerge below the cloud cover.

Lupe could see Skagway now. The Explorer of the Seas and Radiance of the Seas remained in port. Sean and Rebecca were still in Skagway!

It wasn’t until Lupe was way back down to the steep section that she got below the clouds and could see Skagway again. The Explorer of the Seas and Radiance of the Seas were still in port. Sean and Rebecca were still in Skagway! Photo looks SSW.

Any hopes the Carolina Dog might have had of having pizza and drinks with the Riordans were soon dashed, however. The Explorer of the Seas was leaving! Lupe and SPHP stood watching Explorer of the Seas sail S away from Skagway down Taiya Inlet. Sean and Rebecca were probably enjoying their pizza and drinks right this very moment.

30 minutes later, Lupe saw the Radiance of the Seas follow the Explorer of the Seas away from Skagway.

Explorer of the Seas sails away from Skagway starting S down Taiya Inlet. No doubt Sean and Rebecca were aboard enjoying their pizza and drinks right this very minute.

So Lupe never did get to see Sean and Rebecca again. They sailed away on adventures of their own. Lupe’s fabulous expedition up AB Mountain had been successful. The Carolina Dog had made it all the long, long way to the true summit. Lupe had joined the Arctic Sisterhood! Tomorrow would bring another fantastic northern adventure worthy of any official new member.

Down in the dark forest, dusk faded to the unbroken blackness of a starless night. Lupe and SPHP traveled on through the gloom until at long last, the A.B. Mountain sign appeared in the flashlight’s beam at the start of the trail. Lupe crossed the road to the G6, ready for Alpo and dreams of days gone by striking it rich in the faraway Klondike gold fields. (11:16 PM)

New Arctic Sisterhood member, Lupe, reports in at the Arctic Brotherhood hall in Skagway the next morning.

AB Mountain trailhead directions: From the South Klondike Highway (No. 98) take the turn onto Dyea Road (0.5 mile from Skagway, or 4 miles from US Customs). Follow Dyea Road 2 miles. Shortly before reaching the trailhead on the L (S) side of Dyea Road, you will pass a paved parking lot at a pullout on the L with a view of Skagway. Dyea road turns to gravel a little past the pullout, and the trailhead appears soon after on the L (S) side of the road. The trail starts at the A.B. Mountain sign on the other (N) side of the road directly across from the trailhead. The trailhead has room for only 3 or 4 vehicles.