Yukon – Page 2 – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Donjek Crossing Mountain, Yukon Territory, Canada (9-9-19)

Days 33 – 36 of Lupe’s Summer of 2019 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

9-6-19, a little after 8:00 AM, Lazy Mountain trailhead in Palmer, Alaska – Another vehicle pulled into the trailhead. Gate must be open! According to a sign on the way in yesterday, the gate was supposed get locked at 10:00 PM. However, after climbing Matanuska Peak (6,093 ft.), Lupe hadn’t made it back to the trailhead until well after midnight.

Who knew if the gate had actually been locked? SPHP had been too weary to check. Didn’t matter now. Lupe was free to go.

A beautiful mostly blue sky morning, but nothing was happening today. Loopster’s little jaunt up Matanuska Peak had been quite the excursion. SPHP’s R foot was sore, and energy levels were low. Orange juice, sweet rolls, and a big chocolate milkshake, the latter 2 shared with the Dingo, helped restore some energy. The foot, however, needed time.

SPHP called Sven, the young guy Lupe had met on the trail yesterday. Sven had proposed climbing a peak together. No answer. SPHP left a message. Lupe was going to have another shot at Wolverine Peak (4,491 ft.) tomorrow. Call back if interested.

The day got spent in Anchorage. This time Lupe wasn’t interested in a walk at Kincaid Park. Maybe her paws were sore, too? Highlights of the day were a roasted chicken, another chocolate milkshake, and hours spent watching the waves roll in at Point Woronzof. Oh, and Sven did answer later on. Wolverine Peak tomorrow was a go!

9-7-19, 10:00 AM, Anchorage at the Prospect Heights trailhead – Lupe was here, but where was Sven? Might have bailed due to the weather. So much for blue skies. Rainy and gray today. Not good. SPHP was about ready to bail, too, when Sven called. Coming, but will be an hour late. Start without him, he would catch up. SPHP explained it was raining. No worries, Sven didn’t care. He would bring a raincoat.

A gust of wind tore leaves from the trees, sending them whirling. 6 days ago, Lupe had been driven back by an absolute gale up on Wolverine Peak. This wasn’t going to be a repeat, was it? The trailhead was busy. No one else seemed worried about wind or rain. Alrighty, then! Lupe headed for the Wolverine Bowl trail.

Raining harder, but Loop was making decent progress when, 20 minutes from the trailhead, 2 young women were running back. The second one stopped to warn SPHP. She had made it 4 miles up Wolverine Peak, but conditions were much worse up there. Raining buckets, and a ferocious wind blowing so hard she could barely stand up. Impossible to get to the summit. Use extreme caution, if making an attempt.

OK ……. so much for Wolverine Peak.

Back at the trailhead, Sven eventually did arrive. If Sven was going up Wolverine Peak, he was going alone. Even though conditions here at the trailhead were mild, Sven understood. How about just a hike along lower portions of the Wolverine Bowl trail? Sure. Why not? Rained the whole time. Lupe got soaking wet, but at least she didn’t get blown off the mountain.

Sven was a really good guy. The whole encounter ended with hot coffee at Starbucks, while Lupe got a chew stick.

Lupe in Anchorage with newfound friend Sven.

And that was it for Alaska. Many more great peaks to climb, but already a week into September. With a new front blowing in, it was time to start for home. Score: Dingo 0, Wolverine Peak 2. By evening Lupe had made it to the Copper River just E of Gulkana Junction.

**Matanuska Peak** (Center), taken on the way through Palmer. Both Sven and Lupe had climbed it 2 days ago. Photo looks E.

Looking back along the Glenn Highway from the **Gunsight Mountain (6,441 ft.)** trailhead (MP 118.5) at the dreariness chasing Lupe out of Alaska. Photo looks SW.

Sign posted along the Glenn Highway on the way to Glennallen. Photo looks E.

**Mount Sanford (16,237 ft.)** (L) and **Mount Drum (12,010 ft.)** (straight ahead!) from the Glenn Highway. Photo looks E.

**Mount Drum** with help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks E.

Evening at the **Copper River**, 1.5 miles NE of Gakona Junction. **Mount Sanford** (Center) on the horizon. Photo looks E.

9-8-19, 6:34 AM, 49ºF, Copper River pullout along the Tok Cut-off – Sunrise at the Copper River. Beautiful! Lupe was up and at ’em! Today she would be leaving Alaska, returning to the Yukon Territory. Fabulous sights all along the way!

Sunrise at the **Copper River**. Photo looks E.

9-8-19, 7:54 AM, 38ºF, Tok Cut-off at the Chistochina River rest stop – Oh, if only yesterday could have been like today! Lupe and Sven would have climbed Wolverine Peak for sure! As it was, Loop enjoyed an early romp across the Chistochina River bridge. In addition to seeing the gorgeous river, she was lucky enough to be treated to a terrific view of Mount Sanford (16,237 ft.).

On the **Chistochina River bridge**. Photo looks SW.

**Mount Sanford** from the **Chistochina River**. Photo looks SE.

An upstream view. Photo looks NNE with help from the telephoto lens.

**Mount Sanford**. Photo looks SE with help from the telephoto lens.

As Lupe continued NE on the Tok Cut-off, several more stops were made as Mount Sanford receded. At one point, Mount Wrangell (14,163 ft.) could be seen as well.

**Mount Sanford** again from farther NE along the Tok Cut-off. Photo looks SSW.

Fall colors along the Tok Cut-Off. Photo looks NE.

**Mount Wrangell** with lots of help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks SSW.

By noon, The Carolina Dog was well SE of Tok on the Alaska Highway. The white giants of Wrangell-St. Elias National Park were long gone. The scenes now were of wetlands, lakes, and rolling Black Hills of the Tetlin National Wildlife Refuge.

**Tetlin National Wildlife Refuge** from the Alaska Highway. Photo looks SW.

At 1:38 PM (PDT now), Lupe crossed the Canadian border. Leaving Alaska was sad, but more adventures were ahead in the fabled Yukon Territory! Brief stops were made to see a budding forest fire and Pickhandle Lake.

A forest fire greeted Lupe shortly after entering Canada again. Photo looks W.

On the dock at **Pickhandle Lake**. Photo looks SE.

**Pickhandle Lake** is in the Shakwak Trench NE of Canada’s St. Elias Mountains. Photo looks WNW.

Excitement was growing as Lupe continued SE on the Alaska Highway. Such a beautiful, warm, clear day! Not much farther was a mountain SPHP had been hoping Looper could climb ever since she first saw it in 2016. The American Dingo had been by it every year since then at least once, but conditions had never been right. Tomorrow, if this weather held, Lupe was finally going get her chance to attempt an ascent of Donjek Crossing Mountain (5,881 ft.)!

9-8-19, 3:30 PM, Donjek River – Oh, yeah! There it was! Rising more than 3,500 feet above the mighty Donjek River stood the wonderful mountain that Lupe was going to climb! All the Carolina Dog would have to do was get above treeline. The rest would be easy.

Of course, it all hinged on the weather. Right now the sun was a beast! Perfect! Too bad Loop hadn’t arrived here last night. She would already be on top!

Before reaching the Donjek River bridge, SPHP pulled off on the R (SW) side of the highway. A gravel road led down a little hill toward the river. A curve to the R, and there was a perfect place to stash the G6. Time to get out and have a look around!

The G6 in a great spot right alongside the **Donjek River**. Lupe would be spending the night right here. Fabulous! Photo looks NW.

Plenty of time to relax, but there was one important task to be taken care of yet this afternoon. Driving across the Alaska Highway bridge, Lupe and SPHP set out to investigate possible access points leading to Donjek Crossing Mountain. Two side roads several miles SE of the bridge didn’t pan out. One went only a short distance to a microwave tower, the other dead-ended almost immediately.

So no roads or trails. Looper was going to have to brute force her way through the forest. Didn’t look that bad, anyway. SPHP drove back to the G6 refuge on the NW side of the Donjek.

An incredibly hot afternoon. The sun was a demon! 71ºF! Lupe and SPHP hung out in or near the G6. When the air cooled in the evening, Loop was ready to do some exploring.

Roaming the flood plain. Photo looks SW.

Beside the mighty **Donjek River**. Photo looks SW.

On the Alaska Highway bridge. Photo looks SW.

**Donjek Crossing Mountain** from Donjek Crossing. Photo looks NE.

*Oh, it’s going to be great! What do you think we’ll see from up there tomorrow?*

**St. Elias Mountains** from the **Donjek River**. Photo looks SSW.

Looking N from the SE side of the river.

**St. Elias Mountains** with help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks SW.

9-9-19, 7:53 AM, 32ºF, at a parking area by a pond SE of the Donjek River – Clear, calm, and crisp! Time to hit it! SPHP had already driven across the bridge to the chosen launch point. Lupe trotted from the parking area up to the Alaska Highway and followed it S. It was a bit of a stroll to a high point along the road.

This was it! For better or worse, Lupe turned E, plunging into the forest.

**Donjek Crossing Mountain** from the point where Lupe left the Alaska Highway. Photo looks NE.

A bit of luck already! Beyond a band of trees, a field of spent fireweed led up an open slope. Nice!

This field of frost-bitten fireweed made for an unexpected easy start. Photo look E.

Lupe followed the fireweed field as far as she could before entering a mostly deciduous forest. The forest floor was soft, spongy material, which required extra effort, but felt good on the paws. Dry branches snapped and cracked as Loop roamed higher through a deep woods wilderness.

Not too far to the R (S), a small stream could be heard down in a ravine. SPHP tried to stay close to the poorly defined edge of the ravine where the ground was sometimes firmer. Meanwhile, Lupe was having a blast exploring at will.

The climb steepened. Lupe’s first objective was to reach a broad gently sloping region several km SW of Donjek Crossing Mountain’s summit, an elevation gain of roughly 600 feet from where she’d left the highway. The Carolina Dog hadn’t reached that area yet when she came to a steep slope that led up to a small opening. Here she already had a beautiful view of snow-capped peaks of the St. Elias Mountains far beyond the Donjek River.

Along the edge of the thickly wooded ravine Lupe had been following. Photo looks SW.

**St. Elias Mountains**. Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.

As Lupe continued higher, the rate of climb finally started to diminish. The forest was changing, too. Scraggly spruce trees were taking over. The ground was soft and lumpy, often covered with thick green moss.

Getting close to the top. Photo looks SE.

Soon Lupe was on level terrain. No sign of anything up here. No trails, not even any animal trails. Donjek Crossing Mountain was still hidden from view. Had to be out there somewhere, though! Lupe turned NE.

Prowling up on the mossy, nearly level region. Photo looks SE.

SPHP wandered NE or ENE in the presumed general direction of Donjek Crossing Mountain. Meanwhile, Lupe sniffed and prowled. She often disappeared from sight, but returned every few minutes to check on SPHP. The Carolina Dog loved it up here! She was having a great time.

This went on for quite a while. Completely hidden by a dense forest of spruce, deciduous trees, and tall bushes, Donjek Crossing Mountain still hadn’t appeared. Lupe had been missing for a few minutes when SPHP spotted her again about 50 feet away. She was trotting along normally, heading straight for SPHP.

Was Loop even aware of the danger? SPHP couldn’t tell. Maybe she knew, but didn’t recognize its presence as danger? The American Dingo was not alone. Death was silently padding along 15 feet behind her. It could all be over in an instant! Fortunately, Death did not seem to be in a hurry. It was not chasing Lupe, and did not appear ready to pounce, merely following the odd unfamiliar Carolina Dog, as if curious about what sort of creature lunch was.

Lupe, come!

At the sound, Death stopped in its tracks. Yellow eyes stared straight at SPHP. Perhaps Lupe had been unaware of Death, but Death had also been unaware of SPHP. Loop reached SPHP acting as if she didn’t have a care in the world. Danger? What danger? Why, it was just a cat! Lupe had been raised with cats, and lived with them for many years. They’re not bad. Just sort of stand-offish solitary creatures, a strange breed of dog that doesn’t understand how to be a good member of the pack.

Confused and disappointed, a lynx easily twice Lupe’s size did not run. Instead, it slunk noiselessly deeper into the forest. 100 feet away, the lynx stopped and stared back again. SPHP tried to get a photo. Dang camera insisted upon auto-focusing on branches in the foreground. Clearly visible to the naked eye, the lynx was a blur to the camera lens.

No question Lupe saw the lynx now! Bold as brass, the American Dingo was eager to go bark at it.

No! Absolutely not! Quiet!

The lynx paused only 5 or 10 seconds before silently retreating into the leafy gloom. Insufficient time to adjust the camera. No photo. Hard to be too upset about that. Lupe was still among the living!

*Oh, how exciting! The lynx was right here only moments ago! It was enormous! Wha’dya say we go find it again? See what it wants! Give it what for!*

The long march through the wilderness continued. Glimpses of Donjek Crossing Mountain finally began to appear. Looper was right on track! She came to a more open boggy area, which fortunately was almost dry. A golden forest was visible on the lower slopes of Donjek Crossing Mountain. Looked like an enchanted place! Lupe headed for it.

**Donjek Crossing Mountain** (L) comes into sight. HP5400 (Center). Photo looks NE.

*Look! An enchanted forest! Let’s go over there!* Crossing the small bog. Photo looks NE.

On the way to the golden forest, Lupe lost sight of it while among the spruce trees again. The golden forest really was enchanted! Although she headed straight for it, Loop never did come to it.

She did reach the base of the mountain, though! At first, the terrain rose gradually, but the rate of climb quickly increased. A steep ascent got Loop up to a grove of aspens, just the sort of tree that might grow in an enchanted forest, but their gold was all spent.

The American Dingo kept climbing. Getting close to treeline now! As trees became scarcer, bushes became more numerous. Maneuvering through these thickets on a steep mountainside was tough. Gradually the trees were left behind, but the climb didn’t get easier until the bushes began to wane, too. Meanwhile, views were opening up.

Trees and bushes! Bushes and trees! Photo looks SSW.

**St. Elias Mountains** beyond the **Donjek River**. Photo looks SW.

Only scattered trees now, but a steep struggle among the bushes went on and on. However, once Lupe was through the worst of them, it was clear nothing was going to stop the Carolina Dog from reaching the top of Donjek Crossing Mountain. Sadly, it was now apparent the sky wasn’t as clear as it had been earlier. Smoke was drifting up the long valley of the Shakwak Trench driven by a steady SE breeze.

**Donjek Crossing Mountain’s far S ridge** (Center). Smoke is visible coming up the **Shakwak Trench** (far R). Photo looks SE.

Hardly a rock anywhere until now. The grassy slopes above bush line did have some. Although Loopster had already gained a tremendous amount of elevation, a long steep climb was still ahead. A breezy romp! The wind was 20 to 25 mph out of the SE up here.

On the grassy slopes. **HP5300** (R). Photo looks E.

*Looks like we’re getting close to the top.* Photo looks NE.

**Donjek River** and **St. Elias Mountains** from the slopes of **HP5400**. Photo looks SSW. Unfortunately, the sky is turning white with smoke in this direction.

At last the terrain began to level out. An easy stroll led toward a plateau only moderately higher. This plateau was the top of HP5400, a subpeak S of Donjek Crossing Mountain’s true summit.

HP5400‘s summit was multiple acres in size. Brown grass and tundra covered a flat plain. Plenty of rocks around, but not enough to call this region rocky. Near the center, a single skinny, dark gray rock stood on end. Lupe hopped up on it to claim a sub-peakbagging victory!

Loopster on the highest rock of **HP5400**. **HP5300** (R) in the background. **Peak 6158** (Center). Photo looks ESE.

The tawny summit of Donjek Crossing Mountain (5,881 ft.) was now in sight only 1 km away!

**Summit of Donjek Crossing Mountain** from the highest rock on **HP5400**. *Told ya this rock was skinny!* Photo looks N.

Getting to the summit was going to be easy! A walk up a big, barren hill, not even 500 feet higher than where Loop was now. Joy and excitement grew as Lupe headed for the N edge of HP5400 for a view of the saddle leading to the top. Yep, absolutely nothing to worry about. Cake!

*Hah! Nothing to it!* Loop along the N edge of **HP5400**. Photo looks N.

Gazing down on the **Alaska Highway bridge** (L) over the **Donjek River** from **HP5400**. Photo looks W.

A bit of a trudge, but Lupe was soon across the saddle, and heading up the S side of the summit. What a happy march up the big hill it was! The American Dingo had waited years for this moment. She arrived at the slightly lower SE end of a one acre summit region. The terrain sloped gently higher toward a pole sticking out of a cairn at the far NW end.

Heading for the cairn (Center) at the **true summit**. Photo looks NW.

*Made it! After all these years, too!* At the **true summit of Donjek Crossing Mountain**. Photo looks SSW.

Oh, it was incredible! Lupe had that big view of the Alaska Highway bridge over the Donjek River she had come so far to see. Donjek Crossing! How fabulous it was to be here!

**Donjek Crossing** from **Donjek Crossing Mountain**. Photo looks WSW.

**Donjek Crossing**. The G6 (unseen) was parked L of the blue pond. Photo looks SW.

The only disappointment was the amount of smoky haze that had blown in during the course of the day, marring the panorama of grand peaks of the St. Elias Range. But it wasn’t too bad. Still possible to see.

Spread out along the St. Elias range, several of the highest mountains in Canada were visible! Mount Wood (15,789 ft.), 7th highest; Mount Steele (16,644 ft.), 6th highest; Mount Lucania (17,192 ft.), 4th highest; and Mount Walsh (14,783 ft.), 13 highest were all in sight.

Regional map of the St. Elias Range posted at a pullout along the Alaska Highway several miles S of the Donjek River.

**Mount Wood** (Center), 7th highest mountain in Canada. Photo looks SW.

**Mount Wood (15,789 ft.)**. Photo looks SW with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

**Mount Steele (16,644 ft.)** (L), 6th highest, and **Mount Lucania (17,192 ft.)** (Center), 4th highest mountains in Canada. Photo looks SSW.

**Mount Walsh** (far R). Photo looks S with help from the telephoto lens.

**Mount Walsh (14,783 ft.)** (R of Center), 13th highest mountain in Canada. Photo looks SSW.

There were glimpses of other grand peaks, too! Ones that SPHP was never able to identify.

Unknown peaks far to the W. They might even have been in Alaska!

After an initial look, Lupe and SPHP sat together near the cairn, taking a long break while enjoying the magnificent scenes.

After a good rest, it was time for a tour of all the views! Lupe first went out on a short N ridge to a point overlooking an enormous stretch of the Donjek River. She could see miles and miles of the river both upstream and downstream from here.

Lupe by the cairn from the start of the N ridge. Photo looks SSE.

At the end of the short N ridge. **Donjek River** (R). Photo looks NNW.

The upstream view. **Mount Wood** (Center). Photo looks SW.

Returning to the main summit region, Lupe next went counter-clockwise around the perimeter. Mountains of the Kluane Plateau to the E were roughly as high as Donjek Crossing Mountain.

**Peak 6158** (R with the yellow slopes). Photo looks E.

Ever so far to the SE, the pointy summit of Mount Decoeli (7,650 ft.) was in sight! Lupe had climbed Decoeli on her very first trip to the Yukon Territory in 2016! Immediately S were Donjek Crossing Mountain’s two subpeaks, HP5300 and HP5400.

**Mount Decoeli** (R) is the pointy peak straight up from Lupe at the far end of the **Shakwak Trench**. **Peak 6158** (L). Photo looks SE.

Subpeaks **HP5300** (L) and **HP5400** (R) in the foreground. Photo looks S.

Her tour complete, Lupe returned to the summit cairn. For a long time the American Dingo lingered gazing down on the mighty Donjek River and beyond to the snow-clad peaks of Canada’s loftiest mountain range.

**Mount Walsh** (L), **Mount Steele** (Center), and **Mount Wood** (R). Photo looks SW.

It was hard to leave. It really was. What might have been the most tragic day ever, had turned out to be so wonderful!

More than 1.5 hours after arriving, Lupe left the summit cairn for the last time. Down the mountain she went.

Near the saddle leading to **HP5400** (L). Photo looks SW.

On the way back, SPHP made a mistake. Instead of going back up onto HP5400 and down the way Lupe had come up, a long bare slope seen from the saddle leading to HP5400 seemed an enticing shortcut. Steep, but Lupe could lose a lot of elevation before she reached the bushes.

Looking down the enticing slope. Photo looks SW.

That was true. Lupe did lose lots of elevation going down HP5400‘s W slope. But inevitably she reached the bushes on a slope so steep SPHP began to fear she might cliff out. It was almost impossible to correct the error. Once down to the trees, nothing was familiar, and no landmarks were in sight.

In retrospect, the Carolina Dog was simply too far N. As she tried to get back to the Alaska Highway where she left it, she found herself crossing numerous ravines. She traversed steep slopes. The forest was dense, and endless thickets of tall bushes grew on some of the hillsides. This shortcut may have been a tiny bit shorter, but it was taking a lot longer.

Better get out of this mess before it gets dark!

*Come on, SPHP! Figure it out, or that lynx is going to get us yet!*

The sun was still shining up on Donjek Crossing Mountain (5,881 ft.) when the American Dingo finally reached the Alaska Highway within a few hundred feet of where she’d left it. Whew! Just a pleasant stroll now back to the G6. No traffic. A gorgeous evening.

Donjek Crossing Mountain had been a dream come true, although it had nearly turned into a nightmare. Success, and no worries now. Lupe lived to tell the tale!

Somewhere on Donjek Crossing Mountain, a hungry lynx was wishing she hadn’t. (8:55 PM)

**Donjek Crossing Mountain**, Yukon Territory, Canada 9-9-19

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Decoeli, Kluane National Park, Yukon Territory, Canada (8-9-16)

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Ditching the Dempster & Doing Domes, Yukon Territory & Alaska (8-18-19)

Day 14 of Lupe’s 2019 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

8-17-19, 10:05 PM, 32 ºF snowing hard, Arctic Circle, Yukon Territory –

So since when does a 60% chance of precipitation mean hours and hours of rain followed by a blizzard?

This is the Arctic Circle, SPHP, you have to be ready for anything!

Evidently. You realize, Looper, that if it keeps snowing like this tonight, we are going to be stuck here for who knows how long?

It snowed here for a little while in the evening last year, too, SPHP. Remember? It all turned to rain, though, and by noon the next day we were able to keep going.

Yeah, we lucked out, but this time we know that the forecast is for more of the same for the next 3 days. Any significant accumulation tonight means the G6 isn’t getting over Wright Pass tomorrow. If we can’t do that, there goes the plan to blow a few days going to the Arctic Ocean at Tuktoyaktuk again while waiting for conditions to improve in the Richardson Mountains.

Well, let’s see how things look in the morning.

Loop, I’d love to, but we can’t wait. The snow is forcing our paw. Have to decide now. Might already be too late to escape, if it keeps snowing like this. Want to stay and risk getting stuck here in a snowbank for days, or at least try to flee S?

That’s what you want to do, SPHP? Flee S?

Hate to, but our gamble hasn’t paid off. Not looking like the Arctic Ocean or any peaks in the Richardsons are in the cards. If we’d just gotten some rain, that would be one thing – we could hang in here a while yet, but the weather’s been getting worse and worse. Even if it stops snowing down here, the mountains are already blanketed with snow. Won’t even start to melt for at least 4 days.

A mere two hours after arriving at the Arctic Circle, the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood faced the humiliation of having to retreat. None of her 2019 arctic adventures so long in the works were going to happen. At least the American Dingo had made it to the true arctic for a 4th year in a row, which was some minor consolation.

The G6 sprang to life, crept back onto the Dempster Highway, and began jolting and sloshing S. Lupe had ended up fleeing the true arctic in 2018, too. She’d actually made it to the Arctic Ocean, but a blizzard with high winds had threatened on the return trip S. A repeat performance was now underway.

Pitch dark out! The snow was flying when Lupe went past the Eagle Plains hotel again. Foolishly, SPHP didn’t stop. Already knew there was no room at the inn for Dingoes tonight, but should have at least topped off the gas tank. Only down a couple of gallons, but they might postpone a true emergency for a little while.

Virtually no traffic. Snow started accumulating on the road. Like last year, another tense hours-long drive, but the G6 kept crawling forward. Relief every time the top of a hill was reached. Visibility was horrid, but at least it wasn’t snowing as hard as back at the Arctic Circle.

In blinding snow, SPHP completely missed the huge Ogilvie Ridge turnout, but was suddenly aware that the G6 must already be headed down Seven Mile Hill. 35 ºF! Like last year, the Ogilvie River valley was a little warmer. The snow turned to rain, the road merely wet. Saved! Another harrowing escape! Weary, SPHP found a spot to park for the night. 8-18-19, 2:09 AM.

8-18-19, 7:42 AM – Saved? Morning’s first glance was alarming! Close to the G6, the Ogilvie River was tremendously swollen, coming within only a few feet of overflowing onto the Dempster Highway. Could have been swept away in the night! The thought was horrifying.

Lupe at road level next to the swollen **Ogilvie River**, which had risen tremendously overnight. About km 221 of the Dempster Highway.

Perhaps Lupe’s great escape was only partially successful? Snowing hard down here now, too. Fortunately not quite cold enough to stick. The Carolina Dog still had to get over Windy Pass. Might not be possible.

Less than a mile farther S, the Dempster Highway was reassuringly higher versus the river compared to where Lupe had spent the night.

8-18-19, 8:48 AM, 33 ºF, Engineer Creek, km 179 – The news was better than expected. The sky was lighter. Barely snowing now, and only a good dusting on the Ogilvie Mountains. A couple of vehicles had been by heading N, one a mere sedan like the G6. Apparently it was possible to get over Windy Pass.

By **Engineer Creek**, km 179. Photo looks S.

Did we do the right thing, Loopster?

What kind of a question is that, SPHP? You were the one in such a panic to retreat.

I know, but I wonder what really happened at the Arctic Circle last night? How much snow actually fell? Not that much down here.

Who knows? Seemed to be plenty of snow accumulating when we left. We’re a long way from the Arctic Circle now, SPHP. Don’t tell me you’re thinking of going back after all this! Are you crazy?

No, we’re still heading S. The prognosis wasn’t good, even if we didn’t get snowed in. Want to know something strange, though?

Do I have a choice?

Nope. Now that we are safely away, I sort of miss the intensity of facing the unknown.

That’s the adventurer in you, SPHP!

You really think so, Loop? Thank you!

Yes. And last night we saw the big chicken in you.

Hey! It was a logical decision.

Maybe. We’ll never know now how it would have turned out. So what’s the new plan, anyway, SPHP?

New plan? We’re going to complete our long joy ride, then ditch the Dempster Highway. Not going to hang around for days waiting for sunshine and warmer temps. Once we’re back to the N. Klondike Highway, we’ll turn W to Dawson City, take the free ferry across the Yukon River, and head for Alaska! Maybe you’ll get a chance to hit a couple of domes we missed out on last year?

Oh, I hope so! The scenery here has been magnificent, but I’m ready to get out and do something!

The road trip S resumed, with short stops here and there. Windy Pass looked and felt wintery, but the few snowflakes still flying were tiny. A little slush on the road presented no problem. By the time Lupe was back at the Blackstone River, the precipitation was all over and done with. Just a chilly, gray day.

Winter in mid-August at **Windy Pass**, km 152. Photo looks S.

Just enough snow had fallen along in here to beautify and highlight the rugged features of the mountains. Yes, yes, very lovely, but what really got Lupe excited was a moose dashing across the Dempster Highway!

The resulting barkfest was sweet, but disappointingly short. However, hopes for more action were soon raised. Lupe had seen only one moose, and when Two Moose Lake proved to be only a little farther down the road, she insisted on stopping.

That other moose ought to be around here somewhere! All senses on alert, Lupe patrolled the highway near Two Moose Lake, but stealth moose No. 2 was craftier than moose No. 1, remaining undetectable.

*Alright! Come on, SPHP! Moose No. 2 must be somewhere around here.* Photo looks NNE.

A brisk patrol of the Dempster Highway near **Two Moose Lake**. Photo looks S.

**Two Moose Lake** and the **Ogilvie Mountains**. Photo looks S with help from the telephoto lens.

Two white swans took off from Two Moose Lake and flew away. No other movement. Disappointing and inexplicable. Oh, well. Back to the G6!

Another stop at the bubbly pond was a must! After that, shorter breaks to enjoy the snow-clad mountains on the way to North Fork Pass.

Back at the bubbly pond (km 95), a favorite Lupe hideout. Photo looks E.

An enticing unnamed peak. Photo looks SE.

Another look with help from the telephoto lens.

On the way to North Fork Pass, Tombstone Territorial Park. Photo looks SE.

8-18-19, 11:32 AM, 32 ºF, Tombstone Territorial Park – 24 hours after leaving the N Klondike River overlook, Lupe was back. Still overcast, and the temperature hadn’t budged a single degree off freezing, but visibility was a little better. This time Loop thought she could make out Tombstone Mountain (7,192 ft.) at the far end of the valley.

**N Klondike River valley** (km 74). Photo looks SW.

**Tombstone Mountain** was faintly visible at the far end of the valley. Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.

8-18-19, 1:13 PM, 48 ºF, parking area at km 26 – Before ditching the Dempster entirely, SPHP stopped once more at the parking area where Lupe had woken up yesterday morning. Such a difference now that she was down out of the Ogilvie Mountains! Sunny and comfortably warm. While SPHP made lunch, the Carolina Dog even sought shade among the bushes.

*If the Arctic Circle had been like this, I would already be on top of **Peak 3850** in the Richardson Mountains!*

The whole jaunt up the Dempster Highway to the Arctic Circle had been more or less a fiasco, but had taken only 1.5 days. The American Dingo hadn’t gotten to climb a single peak, or even make an attempt on one, yet it had still been a ton of fun seeing all the gorgeous scenery again while clinging to a doomed hope for peakbagging success.

On the bright side, success was practically guaranteed now! The next peak on Lupe’s list of possible objectives was one she’d been to before. An easy drive-up, with a grand view of the fabled Yukon River! Half an hour after lunch, SPHP turned W on the N Klondike Highway. Loopster’s unproductive adventures along the Dempster Highway were over.

8-18-19, 3:55 PM, 50 ºF, Midnight Dome by Dawson City – So what if Midnight Dome (2,887 ft.) was a drive-up? Being on top of a mountain again felt great! No weather worries here! Lupe basked in sunshine. Throngs of people were coming and going, at least by Yukon Territory standards. And why not? A beautiful summer day, super easy access, and a splendid view overlooking Dawson City of Klondike Gold Rush fame along the mighty Yukon River.

*There’s **Dawson City** and the **Yukon River**! A shame we’re 123 years too late for the start of the Klondike Gold Rush!* Photo looks SW.

*I only climbed 20 feet to get to this rock, but it’s still the top of a mountain, and look at that view of the **Yukon River**!* Photo looks NNW.

**Yukon River**. Photo looks NNW with help from the telephoto lens.

Let it snow up at the Arctic Circle! Conditions were so much better down here. Midnight Dome only served to inspire the desire for more action. Still time enough left for it today, too! After leaving Midnight Dome, the American Dingo didn’t dawdle in Dawson City. Instead, she went straight to the free ferry, took it across the Yukon River, and set off on the Top of the World Highway.

Heading for Alaska on the Top of the World Highway.

104 km (64 miles) to Alaska! Lupe saw Cassiar Dome (4,450 ft.) and went right by Swede Dome (4,150 ft.) on the way, both of which she had climbed on a rainy day only a year ago. Would have been fun to climb them again, but the Carolina Dog had unfinished dome business to take care of in Alaska, and today was the day to do it!

2 km from the border, the Top of the World Highway curved over a ridge where a large parking area was on the S side of the road. Last chance to get out and enjoy the Yukon before crossing into Alaska!

2 km from the Alaska border about to leave the fabulous Yukon Territory. Photo looks S.

US and Canadian customs were already in sight. Lupe crossed over to the N side of the Top of the World Highway, where a small hill with a huge cairn provided a great view of the border.

Still in the Yukon, but with Alaska in sight! Photo looks NW.

**US/Canadian customs** from the Yukon side of the border. Photo looks NW with help from the telephoto lens.

Crossing the border, Loop gained an hour. On Alaska time now!

8-18-19, 5:41 PM, 41 ºF, 1.5 miles into Alaska – Shortly after breezing through US customs, SPHP parked the G6 at a pullout on the N side of the Top of the World Highway. Out leapt the wily and ferocious were-puppy, totally excited about finally getting a chance to burn off excess energy! After the usual dastardly assault on SPHP, the were-puppy charged up Davis Dome (4,124 ft.).

The were-puppy threatens SPHP shortly after entering Alaska. **Davis Dome** in the background. Photo looks SW.

From the pullout, Davis Dome was just a big rounded hill. Only 275 feet of elevation gain, so no sweat. Yet when Lupe had been here last year, persistent cold rain and dense fog had prevented even an attempt. Not going to be denied this time! Before long the were-puppy reached the top of a spacious plateau. Near the the marginally higher N edge, a loosely constructed cairn marked what passed for the true summit.

At the top of **Davis Dome**. Note the survey benchmark near the base of the cairn straight below Lupe’s rear leg. Photo looks N.

Off to the N, an enormous expanse of lower hills and long ridges extended toward higher peaks visible near the horizon. On the S side of the cairn, a survey marker was attached to a flat rock. Disappointingly, it was not stamped “Walker” as shown on the topo map. However, a short distance to the E another marker with an arrow pointing toward the cairn was.

Survey benchmark at the base of the cairn.

The bronze mushroom near Looper’s front paws is actually the survey marker with the arrow. Photo looks WNW.

The summit plateau was elongated toward the SW. Close to the S edge stood a green thingamajig. Since a 20 mph N wind was making hanging out by the cairn near the N edge a chilly proposition, Lupe headed S to check out the thingamajig.

**Davis Dome summit plateau**. Photo looks SSW.

The thingamajig had a door partway up the E side, and was fastened to Davis Dome by guy wires. It didn’t look very aerodynamic, but maybe if Loop got inside and SPHP released the guy wires, the thingamajig would launch into space and take her to the Land of Oz?

Checking out the Davis Dome thingamajig. Photo looks SW.

The Carolina Dog wasn’t convinced. At any rate, she preferred Alaska to adventures in Oz, especially if SPHP wasn’t coming with. Instead of launching into space, she continued her exploration of the Davis Dome summit plateau, going clear to the SW end before exploring the W edge.

Near the **SW end of the summit plateau**. The cairn is just visible on the L. US and Canadian customs (R) are seen just L of the thingamajig (far R). Photo looks NE.

The views were similar. Unspoiled hills and ridges as far as the Dingo could see, but no dramatic peaks. Lupe returned briefly to the summit cairn before heading back to the G6. (6:22 PM)

The G6 waits down at the pullout next to the Top of the World Highway. US and Canadian Customs at the Alaska/Yukon border (Center). Photo looks NE.

US and Canadian Customs from Davis Dome with help from the telephoto lens.

Getting on toward evening, but Lupe still had time for one more dome! The Top of the World Highway was beautifully paved for 14 miles from the Canadian border to a junction with the Taylor Highway (Hwy No. 5) at Jack Wade where SPHP turned N (R).

Following the Taylor Highway 65 miles all the way to its end would have brought the Carolina Dog to the Yukon River again at Eagle, but after only 3 miles SPHP parked on a saddle at a large dirt lot on the SW (L) side of the road.

8-18-19, 6:58 PM, 38 ºF, Taylor Highway 3 miles N of Jack Wade – From here, the topo map showed some sort of a route going 0.5 mile NNE up Steele Creek Dome (4,015 ft.). Crossing the highway, Lupe searched for signs of a path up a slope thick with bushes and stunted trees. She soon discovered an old, deeply rutted jeep or ATV trail. No markings, but this had to be it.

**Steele Creek Dome** from the parking area along the Taylor Highway. Photo looks NE.

Starting up the badly eroded ATV trail. Photo looks NE.

Like Davis Dome, Steele Creek Dome was just another big rounded hill. However, with 500 feet of elevation gain required, climbing Steele Creek Dome would take nearly twice as much effort. The ATV trail made the trek an easy one, except for one spot where it headed straight into a bog. Following a side trail, Lupe circled around the L side of the boggy area, and was soon able to rejoin the main route higher.

About halfway up, the trees and even the bushes began to thin out. The top of the dome didn’t look an awful lot farther.

Getting close to the top. Photo looks NE.

Steele Creek Dome’s summit was a much smaller region than the big plateau at Davis Dome. Lupe arrived at the W end of a rounded ridge. She was close to a loose cairn of white rocks. At the opposite end of the short ridge, a much larger cairn sat on a little high point.

At the top of **Steele Creek Dome**. Photo looks ENE.

Midway between the two cairns was another high spot unadorned by anything except a cluster of small rocks. The cluster seemed about as high as where the big cairn was, so Lupe paused here, before continuing on to the big cairn.

At the cluster high point between the 2 cairns. Photo looks E.

**Steele Creek Dome**. Photo looks NE with help from the telephoto lens.

Seemed like Davis Dome ought to be visible off to the SE, but which hill was it? Hard to say. Maybe it really wasn’t in sight? SPHP was unable to make positive identification.

Big hills and ridges in all directions. 35 ºF. The N wind was only 15 mph now, but the chill breeze combined with the 360 degree panorama and sinking sun heightened a sense of loneliness and extreme remoteness. The Taylor Highway stretching off into the distance was the only sign of civilization. Even it appeared to be completely abandoned.

The Taylor Highway winds off toward Jack Wade junction. The G6 is parked down where the road appears to end toward the R. Photo looks SSW.

Another 62 miles from here to the end of the Taylor Highway at Eagle on the Yukon River. Lupe never went this way. Photo looks WNW.

Staring far to the SW, SPHP suddenly realized that Lupe had been to the highest peak faintly visible on the horizon. Mount Fairplay (5,541 ft.), a favorite spot! The American Dingo had climbed it twice. Tomorrow Lupe would be going right by Mount Fairplay again. If the weather held, maybe she could make a 3rd ascent?

Something to look forward to. Mount Fairplay was awesome! Still just another big hill, but a really big one. Over 2,000 feet of elevation gain from the highway, and 3,000 feet of prominence.

**Mount Fairplay** (Center) from **Steele Creek Dome**. Photo looks SW with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

Seemed like a long time since way back at the swollen Ogilvie River this morning. Getting late enough so that Lupe didn’t linger long on remote Steele Creek Dome (4,015 ft.).

Final moments on Steele Creek Dome. Photo looks NE.

*3 domes in one day! That’s pretty good, isn’t it?*

On the way down, SPHP became engaged in scarfing up luscious, ripe wild blueberries. The exasperated were-puppy reappeared. Twice! The were-puppy’s insistent threats finally persuaded SPHP to move along at a more lively pace. (End 8:02 PM)

8-18-19, 9:02 PM, 37 ºF, Taylor Highway SSW of Steele Creek Dome – The G6 was pointed NW. After a dinner of pink salmon and Alpo, a sleepy Carolina Dog munched happily on a rawhide stick. Outside, the sky was almost totally clear. Might be a cold night! So quiet here. Sunset in 20 or 30 minutes.

Perfectly positioned for it, but the sunset never really developed. A golden orb hovered briefly on the horizon, then slipped and was gone.

*So that’s it from Steele Creek Dome! We’re just getting started in Alaska, though. Hope you join me again for more Dingo Adventures real soon!*

Links:

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Doing Domes – The Top of the World Highway from Dawson City to the Alaska border, Yukon Territory, Canada (8-24-18)

To the Arctic Circle! – Return of the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood (8-16-19 & 8-17-19)

Days 12 & 13 of Lupe’s 2019 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

8-16-19, 6:02 AM, 36ºF, at the Mount Haldane trailhead – Chili bean! Chilly enough to fire the G6 up to get the heater going. Might as well drive a bit. Minutes after waking, Lupe was headed S on the Silver Trail.

Mostly cloudy, with darker stuff to the W. SPHP didn’t drive far, 15 km? After crossing the Minto Bridge over the Mayo River, SPHP pulled into the rest stop on the other side. Chili for breakfast. American Dingoes love chili! Lupe happily scarfed down her share. SPHP moved the G6 close to the river where she could watch a flotilla of ducks.

The sky darkened. Mist, then rain. Hah! The decision to climb Mount Haldane (6,023 ft.) yesterday had been a good one! A beautiful day hadn’t gone to waste. Apparently, if yesterday had been spent driving to get into position for a different peak this morning, Loopster would have gotten rained out anyway. As it was, after two big days of peakbagging in a row, a lazy day was in order. Let it rain all it wanted!

8-16-19, 3:36 PM, 57ºF, Silver Trail at the Minto Bridge rest area – Rain tapering off, and the trip journal caught up. About to get underway again!

8-16-19, 4:09 PM, 51ºF, Five Mile Lakes campground – No rain here! Still heavily overcast, though. Lupe got out for a look at the lake. Nice, but certainly nowhere near five miles long or across. The name must come from being five miles N of Mayo. Turned out that the picnic ground was at a separate location a short drive from the campground.

At the **Five Mile Lakes** campground beach.

The picnic ground was empty when Lupe arrived. The lake wasn’t far away, but wasn’t in view, either. No matter. SPHP heated up a can of clam chowder for supper. American Dingoes aren’t thrilled with clam chowder. Loopster sniffed around the edges of the boreal forest and found a squirrel to bark at instead.

8-16-19, 7:42 PM, Gravel Lake – Lupe’s 2019 Silver Trail adventures were behind her now. Along the N Klondike Highway, a short stop was made for a look at Gravel Lake. Big, round, and probably shallow, Gravel Lake appeared to be merely an over-sized pond.

However, a plaque about lodgepole pines contained amazing information. These days Gravel Lake is about as far N as lodgepole pines are found in the Yukon, but 1,000,000 years ago they grew as far N as Old Crow. The virtually unbelievable part was that lodgepole pine seeds can remain dormant for 10,000 years before sprouting!

8-16-19, 8:31 PM, 55 ºF, at the start of the Dempster Highway – At the S end of the Dempster Highway, SPHP fueled the G6 up at the automated gas station. No quibbling about price, even if one wanted to. Not a good place to get stingy, anyway. Last chance for gas between here and Eagle Plains – 369 unpaved km away!

In 2018, Lupe had traveled the entire 737 km Dempster Highway all the way to Inuvik in the Northwest Territories. She had even pressed on taking the new all-season road (Hwy 10) to Tuktoyaktuk on the Arctic Ocean, 845 km from here! Whether the Carolina Dog would get that far on this Dingo Vacation or not wasn’t decided yet. Adventures were in the works as far as the Richardson Mountains N of the Arctic Circle. Beyond that, the crystal ball was hazy.

At any rate, the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood was on her way back to the true Arctic! To commemorate the occasion, she stopped by the big Dempster Highway sign before heading N.

The Dempster Highway starts at this junction with the North Klondike Highway 496 km/308 miles N of Whitehorse.

8-16-19, 9:39 PM, 50 ºF near Dempster Highway km 26 – Now that it was about over, Loopster saw the first hint of blue sky she’d seen all day. For a moment sunshine was on a hillside! Encouraging, although the sun never appeared. The Ogilvie Mountains were coming into view ahead! SPHP found a spot to park, so Lupe could get out for a look.

A chance to stretch after being cooped up in the G6 most of the day.

Approaching the **Ogilvie Mountains**. Photo looks N.

Far enough! Still light out, but time to call it a day. With a little luck, the Ogilvie Mountains would be out of the clouds tomorrow. Although she’d snoozed for hours in the G6, Lupe went right back to preparing for Mount Chester Henderson (6,300 ft.) in the morning.

*Shhhh! Peakbagging preparations underway!*

Not long after dark, though, the mist returned. Then rain. Not good.

8-17-19, 6:50 AM, 36 ºF – What’s this? A clear blue sky! Awesome! Full of optimism the American Dingo hit the road N. Soon she reached the S boundary of Tombstone Territorial Park. Sunlight was visible on the peaks of the Ogilvie Mountains, yet the sky was much hazier than just a short while ago. Trees were swaying in a lively breeze.

About to enter Tombstone Territorial Park. **Ogilvie Mountains** in view. Photo looks N.

8-17-19, 8:14 AM, 32 ºF, km 71.5 of the Dempster Highway at the Tombstone Interpretive Centre – What a change! Cold, windy, with new snow on the mountains. Mount Chester Henderson lost in the clouds. The interpretive center didn’t open until 9:00 AM. A weather forecast posted outside showed sunny with highs of 12 ºC and lows of 0 ºC the next several days, but that was for Dawson City, not here.

No local forecast, but there was one for where Lupe was ultimately heading – km 450 of the Dempster Highway. That had to be Wright Pass in the Richardson Mountains on the border of the Northwest Territories, or close to it! Unsurprisingly, the Wright Pass forecast wasn’t as good as Dawson City’s – highs of 3 or 4 ºC with lows of -3 to 1 ºC today and the next 3 days. Most days cloudy with periods of rain or snow.

So what did you find out, SPHP?

Mainly that we should wait for the interpretive center to open, Loop. The forecast for Dawson City, which isn’t too far away, is decent, but that’s way down by the Yukon River. Maybe the rangers can tell us a little more about what to expect up here?

New snow in the mountains across the Dempster Highway from the Tombstone Interpretive Centre parking lot. Photo looks E.

Breakfast was lukewarm. The cold wind made it nearly impossible to heat anything up. SPHP returned to the interpretive centre shortly after it opened. A surprisingly busy place, but that was due to the weather. Everyone was cancelling hikes and backpacking trips, and wondering what else there was to do?

A local forecast? Nothing official, but the ranger SPHP talked to said to expect little change. Overcast, high temps near freezing, and a 60% chance of rain or snow every day for the next 3 days. Improving after that. They did have a new extended forecast for Wright Pass, which was at least somewhat encouraging.

What’s the verdict, SPHP?

What we see is going to stick around awhile, Loop.

Mount Chester Henderson isn’t happening then, is it?

Nope, don’t even want to leave the G6 in this frigid wind. No point in it, anyway, with the mountain up in the clouds. Same situation for anything else we might consider around here.

So what now?

I’m pondering that, Looper. Seems we’ve simply hit it wrong. Our timing is off. The safe bet is to just chalk it up to bad luck and head for Alaska. Somewhere skies are blue!

We’ve come such a long way, though, SPHP! Are we really going to give up on everything we were going to do along the Dempster Highway just like that? Aren’t there any other options?

Yeah, we could just sit here or go to Dawson City waiting for the weather to improve, but that’s not in the cards for at least 4 more days. Even then, no guarantees. Only one other thing I can think of, but it’s a gamble. We could keep heading N. Things aren’t any better in the Richardsons, but if we can make it over Wright Pass, we could probably go all the way back to the Arctic Ocean at Tuktoyaktuk!

Oh, the Arctic Ocean would be grand! And that would chew up a few days, SPHP! Maybe it would warm up by the time we headed S again? We might still get a shot at climbing a mountain or two in the Richardson Range!

Exactly, Loopster! The extended forecast does show improvement at Wright Pass on the 21st – sunny and 9 ºC. Cloudy with showers the next day, but then mostly sunny and 11 ºC on the 23rd.

And even if none of that works out, remember Greg and Svetlana from Mount Lorne? They invited us to go to Grizzly Lake with them on the 23rd here in Tombstone Territorial Park. Maybe that would work?

Certainly a possibility. So what do you want to do, Loop?

Well, as the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood, I feel some responsibility to make an effort to return to the true arctic. Can we just keep going N and see how things turn out? Not many Dingoes have ever been to the Arctic Ocean twice!

You can say that again! Darn few have been there even once! Actually, if we get there, you will have almost made it to the Arctic Ocean 3 times. Remember Deadhorse, Alaska? Since they didn’t allow Dingoes, I had to take the Arctic Ocean tour as your personal representative, but you were within only a few miles of the Arctic Ocean then, too. Alrighty, then. I sort of feel the same way you do. Shall we gamble?

Onward, SPHP!

Cold and windy out, but road conditions were fine. Even beneath leaden skies, the scenery was spectacular! No rush on such a day. The G6 made many stops at favorite points. The first was at the famous viewpoint overlooking the North Klondike River valley only a couple of km beyond the interpretive centre. On a clear day, Tombstone Mountain (7,192 ft.) could be seen at the far end.

This wasn’t a clear day.

**N Klondike River valley**, Tombstone Territorial Park. Photo looks SW.

A closer look with help from the telephoto lens.

The Carolina Dog went past Goldensides, over North Fork Pass, and saw the lower slopes of Angelcomb Peak.

Approaching **North Fork Pass**. Photo looks NNE.

**Upper E Blackstone River valley** from **North Fork Pass.** Photo looks WSW.

**North Fork Pass** looking down the **E Blackstone River valley**. Photo looks NW.

**E Blackstone River valley**. Photo looks W.

8-17-19, 11:39 AM, 30 ºF, Dempster Hwy km 95 (Bubbly Pond) – A longer stop was made at the Bubbly Pond pullout, the lower portion of a two-tier parking area on the E side of the Dempster Highway. Even colder here, but low enough to be protected from the wind, so it didn’t seem bad at all.

Lupe got a chance to sniff through the bushes, play with a stick, and show off how fast she could run! Naturally she visited the bubbly pond, too. Before hitting the Dempster Highway again, she topped it all off with a leisurely counter-clockwise sniff clear around the perimeter of the big parking area.

The bubbly pond parking area, km 95 of the Dempster Highway. Photo looks WNW.

Surfbird Mountain (km 98) was low enough to be out of the clouds and had only a skiff of snow. Farther on, Loopster made stops at the E Blackstone River rest area (km 107) E of Peak 5262 and Chapman Lake.

The **E Blackstone River** was running high. Photo looks NE.

**Chapman Lake** just N of Tombstone Territorial Park. Photo looks N.

The Carolina Dog barked at wild horses in the E Blackstone River, but they were too far away to even look up.

Wild horses in the **E Blackstone River valley**. Photo looks E with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

Despite the endless gloomy sky, optimism grew. All was well! The G6 rolled on. So much fun to see these incredible places again! Lupe had been this far N on the Dempster Highway only once, but that had been just a year ago. Memory was still fresh. Suddenly being here again felt fantastic! If only the weather would turn, fabulous adventures awaited!

A quick stop at Windy Pass (km 152) recalled the tremendous day Lupe had climbing Windy Pass Peak, Distincta Peak, and Peak 5906 last year. The Carolina Dog also got a chance to stretch her legs at scenic Engineer Creek (km 168 & 172) and the bridge over the Ogilvie River.

Back at **Windy Pass**. **Windy Pass Peak** (L). Photo looks S.

**Engineer Creek**, km 168 of the Dempster Highway. Photo looks SE.

**Engineer Creek**, km 172. Photo looks S.

Dempster Highway and **Engineer Creek**, km 172. Photo looks NNE.

Bridge at the **confluence of Engineer Creek and the Ogilvie River**. Photo looks SE.

Same bridge with **Sapper Hill (3,150 ft.)** (Center) in the background. Photo looks E.

Shortly after passing Churchward Hill (km 225), the situation began to change. A light rain set in. No problem, at first, but Seven Mile Hill where the Dempster Highway climbs out of the Ogilvie River valley wasn’t much farther, and proved to be muddy and slick. Low traction caused the G6 to struggle and slip. No guardrails. A tad unnerving!

Snow was in the air by the time Lupe reached the Ogilvie Ridge rest area (km 259) at the top of Seven Mile Hill. Not sticking much … yet.

The situation was deteriorating by the time Lupe reached **Ogilvie Ridge**. Normally a great view of the Ogilvie River valley from here. Not today.

I don’t know, Looper. We better talk about this.

Thinking about turning around, SPHP? We got up Seven Mile Hill alright.

Yeah, we were doing great, but now it appears we’re heading into weather. Hasn’t been a speck of blue sky all day. Rain is one thing, but the snow scares me. We’ve got 5/8 of a full tank. If we go much farther, we won’t have any choice, but to continue on to the Eagle Plains hotel where the next fuel is. If we wait too long to turn around, we won’t have enough fuel to get back. The G6 isn’t any good in snow. If conditions worsen, we might easily end up stranded.

How much farther to the Eagle Plains hotel?

Still 110 km to go. Will take hours bumping along at a snail’s pace.

Can we stay at the hotel, if we get there, SPHP?

Sure, if they’re got room.

Well, we can go a little farther, can’t we? If it starts snowing harder, we’ll turn around having given it our best shot! If things improve or stay about the same, we can head for the hotel. How’s that?

A little dicey, but makes some sense. At least there aren’t any more hills as big as Seven Mile Hill before we get to the Eagle Plains hotel. OK, we’ll go a bit farther and see what happens.

8-17-19, 4:05 PM, 35 ºF crossing the Eagle Plains – No turning back now! Not enough fuel. A mix of snow and rain all the way since leaving Ogilvie Ridge. Fortunately, still warm enough so nothing was sticking. The Dempster Highway was a rough, pot holey, sloppy mess, but firm. The G6 crept along, jolting and splooshing through the puddles.

Despite how slowly SPHP was driving, no vehicle going N passed the G6. Scarcely any traffic at all. Occasionally a vehicle heading S appeared. Lupe actually had a few peakbagging objectives along in here, minor hills that should have been easy climbs, but SPHP couldn’t even find them in this weather. Not leaving the highway in this cold, foggy soup, anyway. No way!

8-17-19, 5:38 PM, 33 ºF, Eagle Plains hotel – Nothing dramatic happened. Just a dreary, damp, marginally above freezing day. The G6 made it! At Eagle Plains fuel was $1.70 CAN per liter, roughly $4.95 US per gallon. A bargain. Fill ‘er up! Confidence restored.

A hopeful Dingo looks forward to a pleasant evening at the **Eagle Plains Hotel** *(km 369)*.

Any rooms available? Yes! $160 CAN per night, tax included. Sounds good! Only one person? Yep, and a Dingo. Sorry, no pets. We have 2 pet friendly rooms, but both are taken.

No soft warm bed. No spacious room. Lupe was crushed.

A check of the latest weather forecast on display in the hotel wasn’t as good as the one back at the Tombstone Interpretive Center. One day of sunshine ahead 4 days from now with a high of 6 ºC. The next day 8 ºC, but cloudy. Then a 10 ºC day, but rainy. Until then 3 more days of gloom with rain, snow, and temperatures within plus or minus a few degrees of freezing.

Only one thing to do.

8-17-19, 7:03 PM, 33 ºF, windy, leaving the Eagle Plains hotel – 36 km to go. Barely raining now, so the road was a bit drier. After crossing the Eagle River, the G6 had an easier time climbing the steep hill out of the valley than last year. Kms clicked away. The lower, snow-covered slopes of the Richardson Mountains came into view.

The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood was coming!

Approaching the **Richardson Mountains**.

8-17-19, 8:18 PM, 33 ºF, breezy at the Arctic Circle (km 405) –

Congratulations, Loopster! You’ve made it back to the true arctic for the 4th year running!

Thank you, SPHP! The mountains are all snowy!

Yeah, and the forecast is lousy. Not going to stand much chance of getting any peakbagging done in the Richardsons. Maybe Peak 3850 just S of Wright Pass on the way back from the Arctic Ocean? That’s about it.

We’re going on to Tuktoyaktuk?

All depends on if we can make it over Wright Pass tomorrow. If we can, I think you’ll be seeing the Land of the Pingos again. Still a long way, but we’ve already come so far. Why not go for it?

The American Dingo was more than willing.

The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood returns to the true arctic!

At the **Arctic Circle** 4 or 5 miles from the **Richardson Mountains**. Photo looks NE.

**Richardson Mountains** with help from the telephoto lens.

Same view with help from the telephoto lens.

The plan was to stay at the huge pullout at the Arctic Circle rest area for the night. Lupe hadn’t been here too long, though, before it began to snow lightly.

8-17-19, 9:50 PM, 32 ºF, at the Arctic Circle – A few vehicles had come out of the N. SPHP had been chatting with several people who stopped. Two women had just come from Inuvik. They’d made it over Wright Pass, but the road was treacherously muddy and slick coming up from Rock Creek. A man made it over the pass, too, but had picked up a nail in a tire. Had to stop every 20 km to air it up with a compressor. He agreed that Rock Creek was a mess.

A friendly family in a motorhome were the only ones still heading N. Still optimistic, they encouraged Lupe before continuing on their way.

The last tail lights disappeared. Twilight fading. Alone at the Arctic Circle! A year ago, it had rained incessantly all night here. Fortunately, it had been just warm enough. A degree or two colder, and there would have been feet, not inches, of snow. No telling how long the G6 might have been stranded. Hadn’t happened, though. The next morning Lupe had pressed on, eventually getting all the way to the Arctic Ocean.

Outside the G6, the snowflakes racing by in the wind were now huge. The ground was white. An inch already. Snowing hard and sticking! Almost no visibility. Close to blizzard conditions. If this kept up …

At the **Arctic Circle**, Yukon Territory, Canada 8-17-19

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The Dempster Highway Travelogue