Matanuska Peak, Chugach Range, Alaska (9-5-19)

Days 31 & 32 of Lupe’s Summer of 2019 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

9-4-19, 1:45 PM, at a pullout along the Edgerton Highway

About time, sleepyhead!

Heh, sorry about that Looper.  How long have I been out?

An hour.  Are you alright, SPHP?

Yes, much better, thank you.  That Benadryl I took really did a number on me.  Just couldn’t stay awake.  Fine now.  Ready to keep going?

Been ready!  Onward!  By the way, where are we off to, anyway?

Looks like it’s turned into a decent day again!  Want to head back toward Anchorage?  Take another shot at Wolverine Peak, or something else in that vicinity tomorrow?  Been a few days.  That hurricane ought to have died down by now.  Last chance!  Even if the weather stays good, won’t be too long before we really do need to leave Alaska.

Way back there again, SPHP?  You sure aren’t going to win any prizes for efficient route planning!  Whatever you want, though.  I’m easy!

That was true, enough!  As long as the Carolina Dog was on the road to adventure, she was never too particular about exactly which road that was.  After the late, late return from the Root Glacier last night, an easy day spent just getting into position for the next big thing sounded good.

9-4-19, 4:31 PM, Glenn Highway, MP 123.3 – Time to stretch those Dingo legs!  SPHP turned off the highway onto the road to Belanger Pass.  Syncline Mountain (5,471 ft.) was in sight, looking beautiful out in the clear!  Not smoky at all now like it had been when Lupe climbed it more than 2 weeks ago.  That had been a fun day!

Syncline Mountain is looking great! Want to climb it again, SPHP? Photo looks NW.

Unfortunately, early afternoon’s sunshine had disappeared.  Clouding up.  Maybe heading back W had been the wrong thing to do?  Wouldn’t be the first time.

W of Gunsight Mountain (6,441 ft.), the G6 ran into rain showers.  By the time Lupe was in Palmer, the showers were over and done with.  Merely partly cloudy here.  Still, maybe Palmer was far enough?  Why go clear to Anchorage, when the weather was iffy?  Just more wasted miles, if tomorrow was a no-go.  Besides, if it turned out to be a really nice day, maybe Loop could take a shot at Matanuska Peak (6,093 ft.) right here in Palmer?

9-5-19, 9:41 AM, Palmer, Huntley Road at the Lazy Mountain trailhead –

Doh!

What’s wrong, SPHP?

Nothing really, Looper.  Just that I should have looked at the map before paying the parking fee is all.  We’re at the wrong trailhead!  Could have saved ourselves a mile on the Morgan Horse trail if we had parked at the end of Smith Road instead.

One measly mile won’t make much difference, will it?

No, except that Matanuska Peak is a huge climb.  5,400 ft. of elevation gain without counting any dips!  We might not feel like doing this extra mile again on the way back.

Oh, piddle!  Come on, let’s go!

Trail map posted at the Lazy Mountain trailhead in Palmer.
Start of the Morgan Horse trail at the Lazy Mountain trailhead. Photo looks SE.

The Morgan Horse trail left the Lazy Mountain trailhead winding SE through a forest full of Devil’s club.  Minor ups and downs, but nothing serious.  Little or no net elevation change.  The morning was clear and bright, which had been key for the decision to stay here in Palmer to climb lofty Matanuska Peak (6,093 ft.), no trivial romp even by American Dingo standards.

Numbered brown wands appeared along the trail at regular intervals.  The numbers apparently corresponded to distance in feet from the trailhead.  The Carolina Dog saw few signs that horses ever actually used the Morgan Horse trail.  Early on, she caught sight of the lower SW side of Lazy Mountain (3,740 ft.), the last Alaskan peak she’d climbed in 2016.

Lower part of Lazy Mountain (Center) from the Morgan Horse trail. Photo looks NE.

The Morgan Horse trail was easy going.  Shady and comfortably cool!

Exploring the Morgan Horse trail.

After a mile, the trail turned S and became arrow straight.  Off to the W (R), private homes could be glimpsed through the trees.  Shortly after passing the 6,000 foot marker, Lupe came to an intersection with the McRoberts Creek trail, a nicely graveled jeep-sized road that went E/W.

The Morgan Horse trail continued S, but Looper turned E.  This junction must have been about 700 feet W of the Smith Road trailhead.  The first wand she came to after making the L turn onto the McRoberts Creek trail was numbered 800.

The McRoberts Creek trail was an uphill march, but the American Dingo didn’t stick with it very far at all.  Soon a Matanuska Peak sign appeared next to a single track trail veering off to the L.  The 1400 foot wand was in sight just a little beyond the sign.

Looper at the start of the Matanuska Peak trail. Photo looks ENE.

The Matanuska Peak trail climbed aggressively!  Gradually it became a little easier.  Lupe even came to a couple of tiny dips.  Overall, though, this first portion of the trail was just plain steep.  SPHP often paused to catch breath at the wands appearing at 200 foot intervals.

Approaching the 4,000 marker, the trail finally leveled out.  Still 3 miles due E, Matanuska Peak (6,093 ft.) was in sight for the first time.

Matanuska Peak (Center) from the 4,000 foot wand. Photo looks E.

A nice level stretch between the 4,000 and 4,800 foot wands provided a welcome respite.  The trail then climbed at an easier pace to about the 5,400 wand, where it steepened again.  The sky had been crystal clear early this morning, but clouds were now starting to form.  Felt humid, so that unfortunate trend might well continue.  Definitely a concern, but Lupe carried on.

After another long, steep climb, an opening appeared in the forest along a short level stretch near the 7,000 foot wand.  Lupe had a clear view of Bodenburg Butte (886 ft.) and the Matanuska River off to the SW.  The top of Pioneer Peak (6,398 ft.) was already in the clouds.

Bodenburg Butte (Center) looks pretty small from the Matanuska Peak trail! Pioneer Peak (L). Matanuska River (R). Photo looks SW.

The climb resumed.  Approaching the 8,400 foot marker, it looked like the trail was about to level out again.  It did, but only as far as the 8,600 wand, beyond which there was a dip quickly followed by yet another steep stretch.

Come on, SPHP! You can do it! Looks like the trail is about to level out.
Matanuska Peak (Center) from the dip beyond the 8,600 foot marker. Photo looks E.

Shortly after passing the 9,200 marker, the Matanuska Peak trail topped out.  Although Loopster was still far from Matanuska Peak, this was an intermediate high point as far as the trail was concerned.  From here, a gradual descent began.  The trail turned N along a ravine, then sharply SSE after crossing a tiny stream near the 10,800 wand.  Shortly before reaching the 11,200 wand, Lupe had a clear view of the valley to the SE ahead.

At the intermediate high point of the Matanuska Peak trail a little beyond the 9,200 foot marker. Peak 4199 (straight up from Lupe). Photo looks NE.
McRoberts Creek drainage (foreground), Pioneer Peak (Center), and Bodenburg Butte (R) from close to the 9,600 wand. Photo looks S.
Upper McRoberts Creek drainage (Center) and Matanuska Peak (L) from the 11,200 foot wand. Photo looks SE.

By now, the top of Matanuska Peak was in the clouds.  Not good, but there was still hope.  Plenty of blue sky in some directions, and most of the mountain remained out in the clear.  Progress was a lot faster as Lupe trotted along a gentle downhill slope.

This was gorgeous territory!  Fields of pink fireweed and deep green bushes dominated the broad slopes ahead.  Keeping watch over them were the light gray summits of a row of minor peaks.

Fields of fireweed decorated the slopes on this easy stretch of the Matanuska Peak trail. Peak 4199 (Center). Photo looks NE.

At the 11,900 foot wand, a very faint trail joined in from the N.  Perhaps it came from Lazy Mountain (3,740 ft.)?  No signage, except a second wand also at this same spot.  The second wand was numbered 14,000 and said “Trail” at the top.  5 minutes after passing these markers, Lupe actually could see Lazy Mountain back to the NW.

At the double wanded junction where an almost imperceptible trail came in from the N. Photo looks ENE.
Lazy Mountain (R in sunlight) comes into view. Photo looks NW.
Lazy Mountain with help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks NW.
A glance down the McRoberts Creek valley. Pioneer Peak (L) and Bodenburg Butte (Center) both only partially in view now. Matanuska River (R). Photo looks SW.

The super easy stretch was over.  Shortly after passing this junction, the Matanuska Peak trail bottomed out.  Lupe was going uphill again when she came to a couple of oddities.  The first was a 13,950 foot wand, also marked “Trail” at the top.  Perhaps the wand numbering system used earlier had ended?  Seemed strange that this next wand was a lower number than the one before it.

Ahead, an orange flag atop a metal tripod stuck up above the fireweed N of the trail.  Perhaps it would reveal something?

At the 13,950 wand. Orange flag (L). Matanuska Peak (R). Photo looks E.

Upon arriving at the orange flag, no significance could be discerned.  No trail junction, no signs, no structures, not even a pile of rocks.  Huh.  Mysterious.

Lazy Mountain (Center) from the mysterious orange flag. Photo looks NW.

Oh, well!  Lupe continued on.  At a 14,750 marker, the trail entered a thicket of tall bushes.  This was a low spot, some minor drainage.  The American Dingo was soon through the thicket, and climbing up onto a little ridge.

The scene ahead was incredible!  Brilliant fall colors painted the slopes.  Beyond them loomed the dark summit of Matanuska Peak.

Entering the thicket.
Up on the small ridge. Matanuska Peak (L of Center). Photo looks ESE.

The trail followed the little ridge steadily higher.  This ridge eventually vanished as it merged into a larger slope.  Lupe was heading SE toward a bench at the base of Matanuska Peak.

The trail heads for the flat bench seen above and to the L of Lupe at the base of the long slope leading up Matanuska Peak (L). Photo looks SE.

Other than a couple of dips crossing minor drainages, the trail climbed steadily.  The second dip came at the 18,980 foot wand.  At about 19,500, Lupe passed a ruined wreck of a picnic table.  Beyond wand 19,600, the word “Trail” once again started appearing at the top of all the wands Loop was coming to, with a corresponding jump in numbers.

At wand 22,200, a much larger dry wash was just ahead.  On the far (SE) side of this ravine was a ridge connected to the towering slope leading to the summit of Matanuska Peak.  The trail went down into the ravine, climbed a little way within it, then wound up a short steep slope on the other side to reach the ridgeline.

Looking back from the 22,200 wand. Lazy Mountain (Center). Photo looks NW.
Approaching the 3rd dry wash. This one was by far the largest. Photo looks SE.
Down in the big ravine. Photo looks ENE.
Heading up the dry wash. The trail is about to climb up onto the ridge on the R. Photo looks ENE.

Shortly after climbing out of the ravine, Lupe came to a pile of white rocks not far from wand 22800.  She was now about as high as Lazy Mountain. This seemed like a good spot for a longer breather.

Lazy Mountain (Center) from close to wand 22,800. Photo looks NW with help from the telephoto lens.

Clouds had been building and spreading all day.  However, toward the end of SPHP’s rest break, they suddenly shifted.  The top of Matanuska Peak was in sight for the first time in quite a while!  A good omen!

Matanuska Peak (L) emerges from the clouds. Photo looks ENE.
Summit of Matanuska Peak. Photo looks NE with help from the telephoto lens.

Heh.  A brief omen.  Within minutes, the summit vanished again.  In fact, much of the mountain disappeared as an even larger cloud swept in and devoured most of Matanuska Peak one gulp.  Bad omen?  Yeah, sort of.  The weather still didn’t seem threatening, but if Lupe did manage to get all the way to the top of Matanuska Peak, it would sure be nice to be able to see something.

At the moment, Lupe wasn’t the least bit worried about that.  High up on the far side of the big ravine she had just crossed, Loop saw something just below the fog of even more interest than the summit.  Dahl sheep!  2 of them.  No, make that 3!  The Carolina Dog whined excitedly!  These sheep were way too far away for any interaction.  Nevertheless, Lupe kept a keen eye on them as she resumed her ascent.

Gazing at Dahl sheep way up on the far (L) side of the ravine. Photo looks ENE.
The fascinating Dahl sheep with help from the telephoto lens.

Lupe hadn’t seen anyone else for a long time now, but suddenly a voice was heard.  Someone who had the lungs to chat on a cell phone while climbing mountains was coming up!  A young man in superb condition soon overtook SPHP.  He paused from his busy social life long enough for a brief chat, then disappeared into the fog now only slightly higher, still powering his way up the mountain.

By the time the young man had overtaken SPHP, a steepish short climb after the rest break had brought the American Dingo to a gently sloping bench, the last relatively flat area Lupe would come to.  She had already come a long way, gaining over 3,000 feet of elevation in the process.  Yet the real climb was just about to begin.  One more mile, and in that mile, another 2,300 vertical feet to go!  Perhaps it was a good thing clouds cloaked the enormous, steep slope ahead.

Onward!  Puppy, ho!

And with that, Lupe started up into the fog.

On the relatively level bench at the bottom of Matanuska Peak’s SW slope. Photo looks ESE.
Part of the upper end of the McRoberts Creek drainage. The trail comes up along the R edge of this photo. Photo looks W.
Heading up into the fog. Photo looks E.

The trail was good.  Packed dirt with some scree.  Looper climbed and climbed.  Already tired, SPHP was super slow.  Many breathers to gasp for air.  Vegetation faded.  Fewer wands.  The endless slope got rockier and rockier.  In the fog it was impossible to tell how much farther Loop still had to go, or how much progress she had made.

Waiting for slow poke.

The slope was almost featureless.  No big rock formations or cliffs.  The angle of attack was gradually getting even steeper, but without readily discernable inflection points.  Staring back down into the foggy abyss was a bit unnerving.  Matanuska Peak was so steep!

Gritty sand disappeared.  The trail became nothing but rocks covered with black lichens.  Then the trail itself all but disappeared.  SPHP kept losing it.  There seemed to be many trails.  Rocks that had been disturbed were lighter colored, and showed that at least a few others had come this way before.  Wands were becoming scarce.  Now and then Lupe saw unmarked wooden posts.

Approaching a couple of rare minor rock formations. Photo looks NE.
Getting rockier.
The rocks kept getting bigger.

SPHP was surprised when the young man reappeared.  It had been so long since Lupe had seen him, SPHP had assumed he must have taken a different route down.  Sven had made it to the top.  How much farther?  Oh, not far, 0.5 mile or so.  Another 0.5 mile of this?  That was a long, long way!  Sven offered encouragement.  Only another 45 minutes at your current pace.

Sven was super friendly.  He stayed and chatted cheerily much longer this time.  Sven even suggested climbing another mountain together.  Why not?  Contact information exchanged, off he went.

45 minutes later, Lupe was still climbing.

The giant scramble continued, but things were starting to change.  The broad slope Loopster was on was getting skinnier.  The fog brightened.  Clouds developed a bluish tinge.  Suddenly, blue sky!

A bit of blue sky appears!

Soon it was possible to see!  No sign of the top yet, but it couldn’t be too much farther, could it?  Lupe reached a 29,200 wand.

At the 29,200 wand, the highest numbered wand Lupe came to during her ascent. Photo looks NE.

The next wand said 27,400.  Sheesh!  The scramble continued.  A sense of excitement was growing.  Big clouds in lots of directions, but it was easy enough to see that the Carolina Dog really was getting close.  Talus slopes were narrowing fast.

At the last wand. Photo looks NNE.

No more wands.  27,400 was the last one.  Suddenly it was over!  Sure, the slope Lupe had come up was plenty steep, but the other side of Matanuska Peak was a precipice!  A gray, craggy finger pointed N into thin air.

The craggy finger toward the lower W end of the summit region. Photo looks W.

Lupe passed an American flag wrapped around a horizontal aluminum pole.  She had come up near the W end of a small summit region.  The collection of boulders at the highest point off to the E was already close at paw.  The tiptop boulder was an airy spot, but the American Dingo easily leapt up onto it.

No cairn, no registry. Lupe found only this American flag up on Matanuska Peak. Photo looks NW.
On the true summit of Matanuska Peak. Photo looks SE.

9-5-19, 5:42 PM, true summit of Matanuska Peak – Blue sky, but lots of clouds, too.  From the summit boulder, Lupe had stunning cloud-broken views off to the N and E.  Virtually nothing could be seen to the S or W, except for a towering cloud threatening to engulf the whole mountain.  At unpredictable intervals, fog swirled by on a light, variable breeze.

Not at all stormy, but the early evening sunshine Lupe was enjoying might end at any moment.  Better take a good look around, while the Luck of the Dingo held!

Wolverine Creek valley (L). A spire along Matanuska Peak’s E ridge is visible above Lupe’s back. Photo looks ENE.
The E ridge spire (Center). Photo looks ENE with help from the telephoto lens.
Matanuska Peak’s E ridge eventually curves N. This lower portion is the light-colored ridge in the foreground. The Wolverine Creek valley lies beyond it. Photo looks N.
A momentary glimpse down Matanuska Peak’s S ridge (L). Photo looks S.

Hideous cliffs were just to the N.  Spires of dark rock were only a little lower along a short NW ridge.  The snaky E ridge was thin and jagged.  Not the scariest summit Looper had ever been to, but SPHP nervously cautioned the Carolina Dog not to move around too much.  A small patch of dirt provided a comfortable spot where she could relax without being on the verge of some precipice.

Far to the ESE, a series of higher peaks strung out along a distant ridge was always at least partially enveloped by clouds.  Sometimes glaciers were visible over that way.  SPHP kept hoping for that ridge to clear, but it never did.

Frontier Peak (6,250 ft.) (R of Center). Glaciers were visible now and then along the distant ridge on the L. Photo looks SE from Matanuska Peak’s true summit.
Zoomed in a bit on the high ridges toward the ESE.
As the clouds shift, the glaciers come into view, especially toward the L. Photo looks ESE with even more help from the telephoto lens.

At first, Lupe was often in sunshine.  That changed.  Increasingly, her time was spent in shadow, but Matanuska Peak was so grand that all thoughts of leaving were banished as long as possible.

Bathed in sunshine at the true summit. Photo looks SE.
In shadow now. Photo looks E.

Hoped for glimpses of Lazy Mountain, Palmer, the Matanuska River and other points to the W or SW never materialized.  A couple of times it looked like they might, but those hopes were always quickly dashed.

A temporarily promising moment. Photo looks WSW.

35 minutes after Lupe reached the summit, clouds came boiling up from the SW.  Even the views to the N and E were closing off.  The Luck of the Dingo was running out.

A glimpse of the distant Talkeetna Range as the clouds close in. Photo looks NNW.

Matanuska Peak had treated Lupe kindly.  The Carolina Dog had been fortunate to see anything other than fog up here.  Getting late, anyway.  It was a long way back, and SPHP would be every bit as slow during the tremendously steep descent as coming up had been.

As the clouds swept in, Lupe returned to the boulder at the true summit.  Her final moments atop mighty Matanuska Peak (6,093 ft.) had arrived.

Gazing down the SW slope (R) Lupe would soon have to descend. Photo looks S.
A pensive American Dingo atop Matanuska Peak. It’s gonna take SPHP forever to get off this monster!
Last look to the ESE.

45 minutes at the summit was all she wrote.  Lupe began her descent.  Down, down through the fog!  Excruciatingly slow, but it all went well.  By the time Loopster emerged from the murk, she was already close to the flattish bench at the bottom end of the SW slope.  The sun had stayed up only long enough to say good-bye.  Lupe didn’t even get to the big dry wash before it was gone.

Dusk deepened while traveling the little ridge.  A few stars appeared.  For a while, lights of Palmer could be seen.  Then it was into the black forest.  Still miles to go.  SPHP sang to ward off bears or moose.  Proven 100% effective yet again!  Exhaustion.  Sore paws.  The dreary extra mile long hobble along the Morgan Horse trail finally came to an end.

Matanuska Peak!  What a stupendous day!  (9-6-19, 12:34 AM)

Matanuska Peak, Chugach Mountains, Alaska 9-5-19

Links:

Next Adventure                            Prior Adventure

Lazy Mountain, Chugach Range, Alaska 9-1-16

Bodenburg Butte near Palmer, Alaska 9-1-17

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Peak 4790 & Peak 4403, Hayes Range, Amphitheater Mountains, Alaska (9-2-19)

Day 29 of Lupe’s 2019 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

6:53 AM, 57ºF, Anchorage – Light rain, and quite breezy, even down here in Anchorage.  Lupe had her answer.  The Carolina Dog wasn’t going to get another shot at Wolverine Peak (4,491 ft.).  Barely into September, Looper should have had more time here, but smoke, wind and rain had made Alaska difficult this year.  Maybe Alaska was over?

That was the big question du jour.  Was it time to leave?  Driving E out of Anchorage, SPHP pondered the issue.  The answer, of course, hinged on the weather.

The rain ended.  The pavement was dry on the way to Palmer.  Maybe Lupe ought to give the Reindeer Hills (5,102 ft.) another look?  Started that way, but it was raining again in Wasilla.  Nah!  Not going to work.  Too far out of the way, and too iffy.  Back to the Glenn Highway and E!

Again the rain quit.  Sunshine!  A beautiful day by the time Lupe reached Gunsight Mountain (6,441 ft.)Syncline Mountain (5,471 ft.) was out in the clear, too.  Most encouraging, but Lupe had been to both of them.  Farther E there was smoke, again.  The great mental debate raged on.

Gakona Junction.  Decision time.  Sunny, 58ºF, breezy.  Based on no more than the favorable prospects of the moment, instead of heading E on the Tok Cut-off, SPHP drove N on the Richardson Highway.  The American Dingo wasn’t cutting and running quite yet!

3:31 PM, 58ºF, pullout along the Denali Highway (about MP 11?) near the larger lake N of Octopus Lake – Sort of late in the day to be taking off into the Alaskan wilderness, but the S end of Peak 4790 was already visible a mere 2.5 miles from the highway.  Still breezy, but comfortably warm.  Prospects weren’t nearly as sanguine as they had been back at Gakona Junction, though.  Most of the sunshine had disappeared on the drive N.  Heavy clouds hung low in a brooding sky.

Well, now or never!  Better not dilly-dally.  Lupe took a quick look at the unnamed lake next to the highway, and was on her way.

Peak 4790 (R of Center) from the Denali Highway. Photo looks NW.
Checking out the lake next to the highway. Peak 4679 (R). Photo looks SW.

Sticking with the highway, Lupe trotted N past a big drainage that came down out of the NW.   The slopes W of the highway were full of bushes, but she soon came to a spot where they weren’t as thick.  Abandoning the road, the Carolina Dog proceeded up this slope.

The more open ground soon ended, but had already helped Looper get past the worst of the bushes.

Upper end of the open ground NW of the highway. Peak 4790 (R). Photo looks NW.

No avoiding them now – more bushes ahead, but they weren’t too bad.  Following faint animal trails, SPHP could usually push through without too much difficulty.  Although dry, the tundra between bushes was soft and spongy.  Felt good on the paws, no doubt, but crossing the springy terrain required extra effort.

Avoiding the bushes was key to making the trek as easy as possible.  A second priority was to reach firmer ground.  Small ridges slightly higher than the surrounding terrain frequently provided the best support.  Brilliant red tundra tended to flourish on these little ridges, making them easy to spot.

Minor ridges like this one cloaked in crimson provided the best footing. Peak 4790 (R). Photo looks NW.

As Loopster headed higher, a series of small drainages presented the only real obstacles.  The drainages tended to be either full of bushes, or rimmed with them.  Lupe made several steep 30 foot climbs coming out of these ravines.

Climbing out of a drainage.
Brilliant red tundra greets Lupe as she emerges from a ravine.

Instead of going directly toward Peak 4790, Lupe aimed for high ground along a ridgeline to the NW.  SPHP thought the terrain might be firmer up there.  Yet no matter how far NW Loop went, she never quite seemed to reach the ridgeline.  SPHP finally figured out the ridge was merely an illusion.  This was all one big slope.

On a nice solid ramp leading higher. Photo looks N.

The journey to Peak 4790 was absolutely gorgeous!  Vivid yellows, golds, oranges and reds of the early autumn landscape contrasted against the gray gloom overhead.  Sometimes Peak 4790 was in sight, and sometimes not, as Lupe turned N directly toward it.  Wandering ever higher, the American Dingo roamed at will.

Despite a dull day, the tundra was incredible! Peak 4790 (R). Photo looks NNW.
Crossing a minor drainage. Photo looks W.
Another rise ahead. Photo looks NNW.

The terrain gradually steepened as Lupe closed in on Peak 4790.  Still easy going!

Getting closer! Peak 4790 (Center). Photo looks N.

The views were improving.  Snow and glacier-clad peaks off to the NE were only partially hidden by clouds.  To the SE, Lupe could see many small lakes back down by the Denali Highway where she’d started out.  Beyond them were the vast NW slopes of Paxson Mountain (5,226 ft.).  Off to the SW, ponds were coming into view in the saddle between the S ends of Peak 4790 and Peak 4403.

A line of snowy peaks off to the NE.
Paxson Mountain (L) and lakes down by the Denali Highway. Photo looks SE.
Tarns between Peak 4790 and Peak 4403 (R). Photo looks SW.

Looper pressed on.  Tangle Benchmark (5,715 ft.) came into sight well beyond Peak 4403.  Far to the SW, the American Dingo could also see Swede Mountain (4,660 ft.), which she’d climbed only 4 days ago.

Sunshine on the upper S slopes of Peak 4790 as Lupe approaches. Photo looks N.
Tangle Benchmark (Center) beyond Peak 4403 (L). Photo looks NW.
Remember Swede Mountain? It’s at far R beyond the near ridge. Photo looks SW.

A SE shoulder swept up toward Peak 4790’s summit.  Lupe ventured over to this shoulder before turning NW directly toward the mountain.  From here, some rockiness was visible along the steep SE face.

On the SE shoulder. Photo looks NW.

The final 200 feet up the S slope were the only steep part of the ascent.  Sort of rocky, sparsely vegetated, but no great feat.  Peak 4790 was just a big hill!

As Lupe approached the summit, a patch of blue sky sailed overhead.  Despite brilliant sunshine, an annoyingly strong S wind felt cold.  The temperature had been dropping all afternoon.

Climbing the upper S slope. Photo looks NNE.
Almost there! Photo looks NNE.

When Lupe popped over the S rim, a spacious summit was spread out before her.  The whole thing was a mix of rocks and tundra reminiscent of summits Loop had visited at Whistle Ridge and Swede Mountain.  This entire region was quite flat, except toward the far N end where the plateau rose 5 to 10 feet.

Here we are on top of Peak 4790! Looks like the true summit is still a little farther. Photo looks NE.

Intent on reaching the true summit, Lupe proceeded toward the rise at the far end, which looked like it might be some sort of definite minor summit ridge near N the edge of the mountain.

Turned out it was neither.  Upon reaching the rise, Lupe discovered not only that it was not any definite ridgeline, but that it wasn’t near the edge of the mountain either.  Another vast expanse of the summit region lay beyond it.  This N section sloped gradually down to the NE, and looked much the same as the plain Lupe had just crossed.  The highest ground did appear to be somewhere along this central rise.

Countless rocks might have been the marginally highest true summit of Peak 4790.  One prime candidate was a bit larger, and stood out slightly from the rest.  The Carolina Dog wasn’t enjoying the cold wind, and urged SPHP to hurry up!  As far as she was concerned, this rock could be the official Dingo-sanctioned true summit!

On the windy true summit of Peak 4790. Photo looks NNE.

The most impressive views from Peak 4790 were all to the N.  Anxious to escape the wind, Lupe and SPHP continued on to the far NNE end of the summit plateau.  Loop roamed a fair distance below where the rocky slope started to steepen before SPHP finally called a halt.  The maneuver wasn’t as successful as it might have been.  The slope provided scant protection from the cold breeze.

Nevertheless, no sense in losing too much elevation.  Time for a break!  The rocky terrain wasn’t terribly comfortable.  Lupe soon decided to curl up on SPHP’s lap.  SPHP tossed a jacket over her for additional warmth.  Much better!  Windy and cool, but this 20 – 25 mph breeze didn’t even begin to compare with yesterday’s powerful tempest at Wolverine Peak.

Resting while showers sweep over the territory N of Peak 4790. Photo looks N.

Off to the N, showers drifted over high tundra plains, a dark blue line of mountains beyond them.  The most spectacular sight was a distant view of the Gulkana Glacier miles to the NE.

Part of Fielding Lake is visible in this view to the NNE.
Showers on the tundra plains. Photo looks N with help from the telephoto lens.
Gulkana Glacier from Peak 4790. Photo looks NE with help from the telephoto lens.
Zoomed in on the Gulkana Glacier.

Many smaller glaciers were also visible along a distant line of peaks to the N.  To the E, a good chunk of Summit Lake was in sight.  Lupe could see all of Sevenmile Lake, which was only a few miles away.  However, this was not the same Sevenmile Lake the Carolina Dog had seen from East Glacier Gap Mountain (6,060 ft.) 5 days ago.

Many more glaciers were visible a long way off. Photo looks N with help from the telephoto lens.
Summit Lake is the big one. Part of Sevenmile Lake is at far R. Photo looks ENE with help from the telephoto lens.

Already getting late in the day.  The views were grand, but Lupe couldn’t linger too long, since the plan was to visit nearby Peak 4403 as well.  20 minutes after starting her rest break, it was time for the American Dingo to be moving on.

Peak 4790’s entire summit region including both the N and S halves was maybe 20 acres in size.  Before departing, a little more exploration along some of the edges seemed like a good idea.  Lupe first sniffed her way along part of the SE rim.  Views of Paxon Mountain and all the little lakes down by the Denali Highway were the highlights in this direction.

Paxon Mountain (L) and Peak 4679 (R) from Peak 4790’s SE rim. Photo looks SSE.

To complete her summit tour, Lupe then crossed over to the opposite side of the mountain.  Peering down over the W edge, the Carolina Dog could scarcely believe her eyes!  Caribou!  A whole herd of them, 30 or 40 strong, was hanging out on a big slope to the N.  The caribou were much lower and quite a long way off.

Part of the caribou herd down on the N flank of Peak 4790. Photo looks NNW with help from the telephoto lens.

Lupe raced toward the herd a little way to get a better view, then stopped.  The caribou weren’t even aware of her.  Caribou watching is among the most intensely exciting and enjoyable experiences an American Dingo will ever have.  Lupe was entranced!  The herd grazed peacefully for several minutes before they picked up her scent.

Upon seeing movement, the excitement was just too much!  Lupe let out a single sharp yip, instantly alerting the caribou to her presence.  The caribou didn’t like the notion of company.  Suddenly the whole herd took off running up to the top of Peak 4790.  Racing across the summit, within seconds they all disappeared over the same SE edge Loopster had been exploring only a few minutes ago.

The thrilling caribou on their way across the summit of Peak 4790. Photo looks NE with help from the telephoto lens.

Disappointed by the caribou’s sudden departure, Lupe came running back to tell SPHP all about them.  She then finished her tour of Peak 4790 heading S along the W rim.  Peak 4403, her next objective, was in sight beyond a 0.25 mile wide valley.  Off to the NW, both summits of Peak 5210 were visible with Tangle Benchmark (5,715 ft.) beyond them.

Returning from the caribou watch. Gulkana Glacier (L). Photo looks NE.
Looking NW from the W rim. Peak 5210‘s S summit is at Center. The N summit is the middle high point of the 3 straight up from Lupe. The high point straight up from Lupe’s head is Tangle Benchmark. Photo looks NW.
Peak 4403, Lupe’s next objective, is the nearby lower hill at Center. Swede Mountain is the hill past the lakes beyond it. The big knob at R is HP4900+ at the S end of Peak 5210. Photo looks SW.

Peak 4790 had been an exhilarating experience!  Lupe was still all stirred up about it.  Upon reaching the S end of the summit, realizing that SPHP was about to head back down to possible caribou country, Loop decided she wanted to roam ahead looking for more.

Just follow after me, SPHP! Don’t worry, I’ll be down below sniffing out more caribou! Photo looks SSW.
Returning caribouless to check on SPHP. Peak 4403 (R). Photo looks SSW.

Sadly, an initial search did not turn up any more caribou.  Even so, the American Dingo’s faith and enthusiasm remained undimmed.

Once SPHP made it down most of Peak 4790’s S slope, it was time to think about how to get over to Peak 4403.  Rather than going all the way S to the saddle with the big tarns leading over to it, a direct approach crossing the intervening valley was decided upon.

Probably more caribou out there somewhere, if I watch closely enough! Peak 4403 (L), S summit of Peak 5210 (R), and Tangle Benchmark (far R). Photo looks W.

Oh, it was such a beautiful trek!  Lupe was so happy roaming a valley of gold.  The promised land, if ever there was one!  A little stream along the W side was the only obstacle, and it was easily hopped.

Approaching the promised land! Peak 5210‘s S summit (L), N summit (straight up from Lupe’s rump), with Tangle Benchmark between them. Photo looks NW.
So happy in the valley of gold between Peak 4403 (L) and Peak 4790 (R)! Photo looks N.
Looking back at Peak 4790. Photo looks NE.

Once across the valley, the climb up Peak 4403’s NE slope was actually quite steep.  Lupe had scarcely started the ascent when she came across a rock upon which a large, beautiful, fan-shaped lichen was growing.  SPHP was so impressed with it, that this officially became the “Lichen Route” up Peak 4403.

The amazing fan-shaped lichen of the Lichen Route.
The Lichen Route goes straight up from Lupe, then to the L. Photo looks NW.

The climb up Peak 4403’s NE slope may have been steep, but only for a few hundred feet.  Lupe then reached the ridge N of the summit.  A short trek S brought Loop to the base of a final rocky climb up a big knob.

Approaching Peak 4403 from the N ridge. Photo looks S.

The top of Peak 4403 featured two humps separated by hundreds of feet.  The hump farthest N, which Lupe reached first, was somewhat lower than the S hump.  A rock formation a few feet high was situated along the N edge of the N hump.  The S wind had still been roaring when Lupe left Peak 4790, but had died down quite a bit by now.  Sheltering on the N side of the rock formation during a brief rest break still seemed like a good idea.

Peak 5210‘s S summit (Center) from Peak 4403’s N hump. Photo looks NW.
Loop during a break on the N hump. Peak 4790 in the background. Photo looks NE.

The sky remained overcast.  A thin line of sunshine on mountains far to the E was the only indication that the sun was still above the horizon.  Lupe pressed on to the higher S hump.  A few big rocks encrusted with black lichens were scattered about.  The true summit of Peak 4403 was a marginally higher rock along the N side of the S hump.

2.5 miles back to the G6.  Light was going to be fading soon.  10 or 15 more minutes was all Lupe could spare before moving on.

At the true summit of Peak 4403. The lower N hump is in the foreground on the R. Photo looks NW.
Peak 4790 from Peak 4403. Photo looks NE.
Fourteen Mile Lake (Center) with Swede Mountain beyond. Swede Lake is the large lake in the distance on the L. Photo looks SW.
Paxon Mountain (Center). Photo looks SE.

Fleeting glorious minutes flew by.  Better get on with it.

Onward!  Puppy, ho!

Heading down the S side of Peak 4403, the Carolina Dog picked up a faint ATV trail.  She followed the ATV trail S for some distance before finally abandoning it to turn SE toward Paxon Mountain.

The sun was down.  The remaining breeze had vanished along with it.  A beautiful evening, but light was already fading fast.  Sensing the need for speed, Lupe was energetic.  Down in the saddle that led to the region S of Peak 4790, the American Dingo roamed far and wide, while SPHP tried to avoid bushes and stay on solid ground.

Peak 4790 (L) during the descent. Photo looks NE.
Down in the saddle region. Peak 4790 (L). Photo looks NE.

Lupe went past a big tarn, and saw several more.  For the most part, SPHP had decent success finding firm terrain, although there were areas of spongy tundra full of potholes, too.

Passing a big tarn. Peak 4790 in the background. Photo looks NNE.
A final glance back at Peak 4403. Photo looks NW.

Once past the tarns, the long slope leading down to the Denali Highway came into view.  Way, way down there, at a second pullout a little NE of where the G6 was parked, a campfire was in sight.  Starting to get dark, but that campfire provided a good target.  The return was now a race to get down to it.  Toward the end came the inevitable bushwhack, but it still wasn’t completely dark when the thrashing around ended as the Carolina Dog finally reached the road.  (9:23 PM)

Good thing Lupe hadn’t abandoned Alaska yet.  Peaks 4790 and 4403 had been an adventure the American Dingo wouldn’t soon forget!

Peak 4790, Hayes Range of the Amphitheater Mountains, Alaska 9-2-19

Links:

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The Denali Highway

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Swede Mountain, Alaska (8-29-19)

Day 25 of Lupe’s 2019 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

6:29 AM, Denali Highway approaching the Tangle River from the NW

That’s it already, SPHP?

Yup.  Tangle Lakes Peak dead ahead, Looper.

Doesn’t look like a very good day for it, does it?

Hard to say.  Still early.

Actually, Lupe was right.  The situation didn’t look encouraging.  Floating above and beyond a moat of fog down in the Tangle River valley, a huge hill was ahead.  Even above the fog, the atmosphere was all white.  The hill appeared nearly featureless.

Approaching Tangle Lakes Peak. Photo looks SE.

At the Tangle River, SPHP turned off on the road to Round Tangle Lake.  Might as well have a look at the river!  The Tangle River was shallow.  Bits of foam sailed downstream.  In the fog it all seemed mysterious and sad.  A plaque along the road about long forgotten prehistoric people who once lived here added to a sense of gloom.

By the Tangle River. Photo looks upstream (SW).
Plaque posted along the road to Round Tangle Lake.

Returning to the Denali Highway, SPHP turned E crossing the river.  A couple more miles, and it was time to start looking for a place to park.  Almost immediately, a paved pullout appeared along the S side of the highway.  Sweet!  Right across the highway, a dirt road headed up a small hill.  More parking up there.

According to the map, the summit of Tangle Lakes Peak was 3 miles due S.  The morning haze was a problem, but maybe it would burn off?  The real worry was vegetation.  Small trees and tall bushes dominated the scene.  A long trackless bushwhack would render an attempted ascent an ill-advised endeavor.

I don’t know, Loopster.  Kind of looking like a no-go.

Well, we’re here, SPHP.  Let’s at least check it out.

Unbelievable!  A path left the pullout!  This was a trailhead.  A few feet into the bushes a single sheet of information was posted behind a cloudy piece of glass or plexiglass.  A registry was also present.

Hah!  I guessed wrong, Lupe.

About what?

The name of this mountain.  The topo map doesn’t show any name for it.  Since it’s only a few miles from the Tangle Lakes, I’ve just been calling it Tangle Lakes Peak.  It actually does have a name, though.  Says here, this is the trail to Swede Mountain (4,660 ft.)!

Oh, so we’ve got a trail to the top?  That changes everything, doesn’t it?

Yes, indeedy!  According to this, the trail doesn’t go to the top, though.  It only goes as far as the alpine.  Probably just as good!  If it gets us above the bushes, Swede Mountain ought to be a cinch!

Despite yesterday’s expedition up East Glacier Gap Mountain (6,060 ft.) and back, SPHP had slept poorly.  Plenty of time.  How about a nap while waiting for the air to clear?  The American Dingo was willing.

10:21 AM, Swede Mountain trailhead along the Denali Highway – Better!  At least the nap had done some good.  The air, however, remained hazy.  Looking more and more like smoke again from forest fires much farther W.  Even so, with the encouraging news about the existence of a trail, the Carolina Dog might as well take a stab at Swede Mountain.

Swede Mountain from the Denali Highway. The G6 is parked at the trailhead pullout. Photo looks SSW.

As soon as SPHP was ready, Lupe hit the trail which headed S into the bushes.  After passing the trailhead display, a swamp was soon visible in a low spot off to the E (L).  The trail went down a minor embankment to lowlands, then turned SW along the base of the higher ground.

Setting out on the Swede Mountain trail. Photo looks S.
The swamp near the trailhead. Denali Highway (L). Photo looks E.

Within 5 minutes, Lupe came to an unmarked fork.  To the R, the trail continued into an area overgrown with large bushes.  To the L, it veered toward more open territory.  The trail to the L looked more recently used, but Lupe went R.

SPHP had assumed that the trails joined up again after getting by the bushes, but they didn’t.  The branch Lupe had taken was already fading as she reached a low spot.  What remained of the trail appeared to be heading for a small hill fairly close by, so the American Dingo kept going.

The top of the little hill turned out to be an open sandy region, a mix of tundra and low bushes.  However, there were no tracks up here and no sign of the trail.  This hill was the N end of a ridge that extended quite a long way SSW.  The rest of the ridge did not look sandy and open.  More and more bushes!  Chest high, too.  Even if Lupe made it to the far end of the ridge, she would have to drop down into a distant bushy lowland, then travel quite a way E or SE to reach a forested slope leading up Swede Mountain.

Looking back toward the start from the sandy hill. The trail had come around the base of the little rise seen beyond Lupe before fading on the way here. Photo looks NE.

Not liking this setup, Loop.  Where’s the trail?  I’m not seeing it.

Gone, SPHP.  I’m not picking up anything, either.

Hmm.  We can keep following this ridge, but it looks like the farther we go, the more of a bushwhack it will become.  I doubt we can even cross that low region to get to the mountain.  I read some of the comments at the trailhead registry.  No one mentioned getting lost or any bushwhacks.

You’ve got a rare talent, SPHP.

Don’t I, though?  Not even 15 minutes from the start and already lost.

Maybe we ought to go back to the fork and try that other branch?

Yeah, seems like the only sensible thing to do.  If that one dead ends, too, Swede Mountain just isn’t happening.

The L branch at the fork had been the way to go.  Less than 30 seconds after striking out on this grassy route, the trail curved E and crossed a plank bridge.  The trail then turned S toward Swede Mountain.  Lupe found herself following a series of plastic grids embedded along the path.

Walking the planks. Photo looks E.
Following the plastic grid. Photo looks S.

The plastic grids went on and on crossing a low region that must be wet in a typical year.  In places the grids were completely overgrown.  Lupe gradually gained elevation as the grids led straight for Swede Mountain.  By the time the grids ended, Loop was at the edge of a stunted forest where the terrain steepened.

Past the grids near the start of the stunted forest. Photo looks S.

Beyond the wetlands, the trail gained elevation more rapidly, but with occasional level stretches, too.  The spruce forest gave way to tall bushes, and even relatively open spots.  As the Carolina Dog climbed, the trail eventually began to trend SE.

Among the alders. Photo looks ESE.
In a relatively open spot. Photo looks ESE.

Near the end, the route steepened.  The trail had been going E when it suddenly veered SW.  A set of stone steps led higher.

On the stone steps. Photo looks SW.

Above the steps, the trail went E again.  Lupe was now up on the rim of the long slope she had been climbing.  She soon came to a cairn perched on a big rock.  This appeared to be the end of the official 1.5 mile long Swede Mountain trail.

Despite the annoying smokey haze, the views to the N weren’t bad.  Round Tangle Lake, Peak 6200, Sugarloaf Mountain (5,341 ft.), and Tangle Benchmark (5,715 ft.) were all in sight.  A big bare spot down along the Denali Highway marked the approximate location of the G6 back at the trailhead.

At the official end of the Swede Mountain trail. Round Tangle Lake (L), Peak 6200 (Center), Sugarloaf Mountain (R), and Tangle Benchmark (far R). Photo looks N.

Loopster might have reached the end of the official Swede Mountain trail, but she was still miles from the top of Swede Mountain.  Gently rounded slopes led toward a huge high point way off to the S.

Still a long way to go! Photo looks S.

The description of the Swede Mountain trail back at the trailhead had promised to get Lupe up to the alpine.  True enough, the region right around the boulder where the cairn sat was mostly low tundra, yet the vegetation hadn’t generally changed that much.  Trees were scarce, but bushes chest high or more dominated the enormous long slopes ahead.  A bushwhack through this dense jungle was a daunting prospect.  It would take forever.

After pausing briefly to enjoy the views at the end of the official trail, Lupe checked out the prospects for success.  The American Dingo had barely started higher when she came to a second smaller cairn no more than 100 feet away from the first one back at the big rock.  Beyond this second cairn a readily discernable path continued into the bush.

This way, SPHP! Lupe by the 2nd cairn. Photo looks S.

Prospects brightened considerably with the discovery of this informal trail.  How far it might go was unknown, but if it went far enough, Loop would eventually get above and beyond the bushes.

On the informal trail. Photo looks N.

Trending steadily N, the very direction the American Dingo needed to go, the trail went on and on.  Sometimes it faded, but never so badly that Lupe couldn’t follow it.  Now and then wildlife trails intersected.  What choice to make wasn’t always clear.  With no significant breaks in the bush empire, Loop had to rely upon SPHP.  Except for the trail itself, she really couldn’t see much of anything.

A particularly good section of the unofficial trail. Photo looks S.

For a long way the situation hardly changed.  By the time the trail began to fade away for good, the outline of a small ridge had appeared only a little farther on.  40 minutes after leaving the small cairn, Lupe popped up onto the ridge.

This ridge was the NE edge of a 30 or 40 foot deep drainage cutting SE/NW across the long slope Lupe had been ascending.  The bottom of the drainage appeared to be choked with flourishing alders.  The top of the ridge was more open than any spot Looper had come to along the unofficial trail.

On the little ridge on the NE side of the drainage. Photo looks S.

Which way?  The ridge Lupe had reached sloped up to the SE, and could be seen curving toward a distant higher ridge that looked like a decent route to the top of Swede Mountain, but that higher ridge was still a long way off.

Going NW didn’t make any sense.  Loop would lose elevation, NW was the wrong direction, and the drainage appeared even more choked with alders that way.  However, not too far away another drainage could be seen coming down out of the SW to join the drainage Lupe was next to.

Looking SE up the drainage. The distant slope (R) appeared to be a good route to the top, if Lupe could get to it.
The second drainage (L) joining the one Lupe had reached. Photo looks NW.

Heading SE might well have worked, but seemed like a huge detour.  Pacing back and forth along the ridge, revealed an animal trail slicing down into the ravine at a point where there were hardly any alders.  An easy way across the drainage!  That was the ticket!

Minutes later, Lupe was through a thin line of alders climbing the SW side of the drainage.  Still lots of bushes ahead, but patches of tundra, too.  Things were starting to open up.  The Carolina Dog kept going, now angling SW or even WSW.

Beyond the ravine. Still quite a trek ahead. Photo looks S.
The incredible tundra.

The plan was to try to get to the edge of the second drainage that had been seen joining the first one, hoping that the edge would have fewer bushes to contend with.

Worked pretty well, too!  Upon reaching the second drainage, the edge actually was easier traveling than charging straight through the bush would have been.  Lupe was already on the correct (E) side and didn’t need to cross this smaller ravine.  The American Dingo simply followed it higher.

Following the second drainage. Photo looks SW.

By the time Lupe reached the upper end, the sea of bushes was finally giving out.  Those that remained were too short to present much of an obstacle.  Abandoning the ravine, the Carolina Dog turned SSE heading straight for Swede Mountain (4,660 ft.).

Heading for Swede Mountain. Photo looks SSE.

A feeling of elation swept in as Lupe sniffed and explored her way up the long, colorful slope.  The terrain was an easy, featureless trudge higher.  Seemed inevitable now that the Carolina Dog would soon be standing proudly at the top of Swede Mountain!  Two big hills were ahead, and she was gaining on them with every step.

Heading up the first big hill. Photo looks SSE.
SPHP is such a worrywart! Swede Mountain is easy! Photo looks S.

Reaching the top of the closest hill revealed a couple of surprises.  First of all, the hill wasn’t really a hill, just a slope leading to a wide flat plain.  The second hill wasn’t too far away now.  It no longer appeared to be a hill, either, just a slope leading to yet another plain a little higher up.  A big rectangular box sat up there close to the edge.

Whatever that big box was, it had been visible from way down on the Denali Highway.  From there the box had appeared to be perched on top of Swede Mountain.  Not true!  Lupe could now see an even higher hill farther S.

Up on the plain at the top of the first climb. Mysterious rectangular box (L). Photo looks SSE.

Naturally, the mysterious box had to be investigated.  Crossing the plain, Lupe climbed the next slope.  The box turned out to be the Tangle Lakes repeater station owned by Copper Valley Telecom.

At the Tangle Lakes repeater station. Photo looks SE.

It hardly bears repeating that the Tangle Lakes repeater station was not at the top of Swede Mountain.  The summit now appeared to be a 15 minute march S of the repeater.  With her repeater station inspection complete, Lupe headed for it.

Looking S from the repeater station toward the apparent summit.
Oh, we’re getting close now! Photo looks S.

Reaching the top of the next rise, Lupe discovered she still wasn’t at the top of Swede Mountain.  Across a plain was a two-tier hill.  Well beyond the two-tier hill, another hill could be seen that looked potentially higher yet.  Hardly seemed possible the summit could still be that far away!

Ack! Still farther to go! Photo looks S.

Two large rocks stood out among all the others scattered across the plain leading to the double-tiered hill.  The first one stood on end, and was the smaller of the two.  The second rock was a boulder 8 or 9 feet high.  SPHP dubbed it “Disentangled Boulder” in honor of being in the Tangle Lakes district, and somehow having managed to disentangle itself from the rest of the mountain to bask in luxurious sunshine.

On Disentangled Boulder. Photo looks SSE.

From Disentangled Boulder, it wasn’t much farther to the base of the two-tier hill.  A short climb got Loop up to a smaller plain leading to the last bump higher.  Lanes of vegetation provided a choice of easy routes to the top among the only collection of big rocks resembling anything that might be called an actual rock formation that Lupe had seen anywhere on Swede Mountain.

Crossing the final plain leading to the highest bump of the two-tier hill. Photo looks S.
The rocky approach to the top of the bump. Photo looks S.

The top of the bump greatly resembled the plains the Carolina Dog had crossed to get here.  A 3 acre summit region was liberally strewn with blocky gray rocks decorated with black lichens, a patchwork of red, tan, and gold tundra interwoven among them.  The N end where Lupe had come up was a little lower than the S rim.

This was it – the summit of Swede Mountain (4,660 ft.)!  The distant hill seen from the plain where the Disentangled Boulder rested was in sight, and clearly lower.  Loopster didn’t have to go all the way over there.

On top of Swede Mountain. Photo looks SSE.

Strange!  Although Lupe had never been to Swede Mountain before, something familiar was here.  Like on Peak 4716 and HP4757 back on Whistle Ridge a couple of days ago, over at the SE edge of the summit area a single grassy mound stood a few feet higher than anything else.

What did it mean?  Why was it there?  Loop went over for a sniff.  On Whistle Ridge, SPHP had the impression that the grassy mounds there might have been man-made.  Not here.  The mound on Swede Mountain looked completely natural.  Maybe the ones on Whistle Ridge were, too?  But what created them?  3 big hills with large summit regions, each with a single grassy mound of similar size noticeably different from the rest of the terrain, always along the SE edge.  No possible explanation came to mind, yet there it was.

On the grassy mound, the true summit of Swede Mountain. Photo looks SSE.
One of the wonders of the natural world, and now you’ve seen it, too! Photo looks E.

The SW rim of the summit region was almost as high as the grassy mound, and offered views of nearby lower hills to the S.  A rest break was in order, so Lupe and SPHP went over there to relax.

Peak 4540 (L) and Peak 4600+ (R) from the SW rim of Swede Mountain. Photo looks S.

Would have been so much better on a clear day!  The smokey haze was worse than ever.  Sadly, the intricate Tangle Lakes which ought to have been on display in the lowlands a few miles W were scarcely visible.  Only the outlines of Whistle Ridge and East Glacier Gap Mountain were detectable.  In all directions, anything anywhere close to the horizon was an indistinct smudge.

Yet it was still incredible to be here with Lupe.

40 serene minutes flew by.  Better take a tour before time was up!  Going counter-clockwise around the summit’s perimeter, Lupe returned to the grassy mound, the true summit of Swede Mountain.

Tangle Benchmark (5,715 ft.) (L) and Peak 5210 (R of Center). Photo looks NE.
Looking NW.

Continuing on, a rocky slope went E down to a giant golden shoulder.  Paxon Mountain was seen faintly on the horizon.  From the N edge, Lupe gazed down on the final plain she had crossed to get here.  She would soon be crossing it again.

View to the ENE. Paxon Mountain (Center) faintly on the horizon.
The uppermost plain from the N edge. Photo looks NW.

To the W, the Tangle Lakes could now be seen with the naked eye, but the camera couldn’t pick them up.  Having gone full circle, Lupe reached the S rim again.

Back at the S end. Photo looks S.

And that was it.  The Carolina Dog headed N cutting across the middle of Swede Mountain’s summit.  Near the N edge, she paused.  One last look back.  There was the puzzling grassy mound she would never see again.

Grassy Mound (Center) from close to the N edge. Photo looks SSE.

The American Dingo lingered as SPHP started down.

Last moments on the summit. Photo looks SSW.

The return trip was marvelous!  A quick stop at Disentangled Boulder, then an easy downhill grade crossing one plain and slope after another, all while reveling in the beauty of this isolated Alaskan peak.

On Disentangled Boulder again. Photo looks NNW this time.

Progress was rapid.  Lupe raced about the tundra enjoying the freedom complete solitude brings.  Evening now.  The air seemed to clear a bit, as the sun slid toward the horizon.

Hey, there’s Upper Tangle Lake (Center) now! Photo looks SW.
Round Tangle Lake (L) with Peak 6200 beyond it. Sugarloaf Mountain (R). Photo looks N with help from the telephoto lens.
Tangle Benchmark (L) in shadow. Peak 5210 (Center) in sunlight. Photo looks NNE.

All went well.  Down by the second drainage Lupe had followed on her way up, she came to a stretch of amazing purple-red tundra.

On royal tundra near the second drainage. Photo looks SW.

Lupe found the same exact spot to cross the first drainage, and made it up onto the little ridge where she’d originally encountered it.  SPHP grew uneasy.  The unofficial trail ended somewhere not too far S of here, but where?

Loopster!  Do you remember where the trail picks up?  All these bushes look the same.

We can’t be far from it, SPHP.  If you don’t see it, try an animal track.  We’ll probably come to it.

Criminitly!  I should have marked where the trail ended somehow, so we could find it again.  Guess we don’t have any choice.  Find us an animal track, and let’s scoot.

The trail the Carolina Dog chose looked promising enough, but it soon became apparent this wasn’t the same trail she had followed up the enormous slope.  This place was a maze!  SPHP tried to use intersecting trails to weave back and forth E and W across the slope looking for the right path.  Looper made good progress down the mountain, but the bushes kept getting taller and taller.  Chaos!  Trails began dead ending, or intersecting at weird, unhelpful angles.

Eventually visibility was lost.  The bushes were way over SPHP’s head!  They’d never been this tall on the way up.  Crashing through the brush, Lupe finally came to a genuine dead end.  Oh, joy!

What’cha think, SPHP?  Which way?

I suspect we’ve crossed the right path at least once without recognizing it.  If I had to guess, and it looks like we do, I think we’re too far E.

There was a trail that went W only a little way back.  Should we go back and try it?

Yeah.  I don’t know what else to do.  We have to try something.

The trail going W went uphill a short distance.  It was enough to get out of the super tall bushes.  And suddenly, there was Looper standing on an adjoining trail that sure looked promising.

Fabulous work, Lupe!  I think you found it.

She had.  The correct trail actually hadn’t been far from that hopeless tangle down at the dead end.  Whatever.  Saved now!  5 minutes on the unofficial trail, and there was the little cairn, followed quickly by the cairn on the big rock at the end of the official trail.

Safely back at the end of the official trail. Round Tangle Lake (L). Photo looks NNW.

All’s well that ends well.  The American Dingo headed down the stone steps.  Her Swede Mountain (4,660 ft.) adventure was about over.

Back at the Denali Highway (6:27 PM), SPHP moved the G6 to the dirt parking area up on the little hill across from the paved pullout.  Dinner facing W.  Way over there, the sun was sinking between two new friends, Whistle Ridge and East Glacier Gap Mountain.  Now Swede Mountain was a friend never to be forgotten, too.

End of a fabulous day.
Whistle Ridge (L) at sunset.
On Swede Mountain, Alaska 8-29-19

Links:

Next Adventure                             Prior Adventure

The Denali Highway

Want more Lupe adventures?  Choose from Lupe’s 2019 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska Adventure IndexDingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index.  Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.