North Slope – Page 2 – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

The Alaskan North Slope Dingo – Deadhorse or Bust! (8-20-17)

Day 21 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

4:54 AM, 38°F, S bank of the Atigun River near the Dalton Highway bridge – Fog. Again. So what else was new? Despite fog, rain, and snow, Lupe had succeeded in climbing Lake Benchmark Mountain (5,000 ft.) yesterday. The day before that, she’d seen Galbraith lake and made it to the S edge of the North Slope beyond the Brooks Range, as far N as she had ever been in her life. So Loop had accomplished what had been planned here. Time to head S.

And yet the North Slope had been so enticing and mysterious! It would have been fun to go farther N, all the way to Deadhorse at the end of the Dalton Highway! Deadhorse was only a few miles from the Arctic Ocean and only another 140 miles or so from here. If there had been easy access to the ocean, Lupe would have gone for sure, despite the weather. An Arctic Ocean adventure, even a short one, would be so incredible! However, all along the coast and for several miles inland, energy companies maintain tight security. Although it was possible to take a paid tour from Deadhorse to the Arctic Ocean, SPHP already knew Dingoes weren’t allowed.

When Lupe had been in the Brooks Range last year, she had met several people who had gone all the way to Deadhorse, or were on their way there. Those who had already been there had reported seeing arctic foxes, snowy owls, caribou, and even musk oxen out on the North Slope. No one said anything favorable about Deadhorse, though. It was just an ugly industrial complex, not even a town, with nothing to do there.

No, without access to the Arctic Ocean for the Carolina Dog, and this foggy weather, it was hard to justify going any farther N. Lupe had lots more adventures planned elsewhere in Alaska. Best get on with it. SPHP fired up the G6, and Lupe was on her way S. The sky was completely overcast. Only a thin fog was present near ground level. Loop could see a mile or two to the base of the mountains. (5:15 AM)

Lupe along the Dalton Highway on her way S to Atigun Pass. Photo looks S.

The Atigun Pass area was darkly overcast. It was snowing, and the snow was beginning to stick. The mountains were white, where they could be seen through the fog. The Dalton Highway was slushy, but the G6 made it to the top of the pass. Lupe and SPHP got out to experience winter in August. (6:18 AM)

Loop at **Atigun Pass** in the **Brooks Range** for the second time in only a couple of days. This time she was heading S.

The weather was better S of Atigun Pass. Lupe stopped briefly at the Chandalar Shelf. The top of Table Mountain (6,314 ft.) was partly in view, and partly obscured by clouds. A fair amount of snow seemed to be present on what could be seen of the summit, but none existed below the final steep climb.

Heading down the S side of Atigun Pass. Photo looks SW.

The weather was somewhat better S of Atigun Pass. The sky wasn’t as darkly overcast and it wasn’t foggy out. Photo looks S while still on the way down from the pass.

Lupe still hadn’t climbed Table Mountain. Table Mountain was the only peak on her original list of objectives along the Dalton Highway for this Dingo Vacation that she hadn’t climbed yet. She was here plenty early in the day. Still, the weather looked pretty iffy. Not foggy, but still lots of clouds hanging around.

As much fun as Table Mountain might have been, after yesterday’s adventure in cold rain, snow, and fog up on Lake Benchmark Mountain, SPHP decided maybe Lupe would be smart to skip it. Conditions were marginal. The weather wouldn’t have to deteriorate much before Loop wouldn’t be able to see a thing up there, even if she did make it to the top. Sad, but true. Onward!

Beyond the Chandalar Shelf, down in the Dietrich River valley, the weather continued to improve. Lupe even saw patches of blue sky. It must have been somewhat sunny here over the past couple of days. The Dalton Highway was much drier now, a vast improvement. The G6 whizzed along at a lively 45 mph!

Lupe reached the Coldfoot visitor center at 9:00 AM. A sign said it was closed until 11:00 AM. Hmm. SPHP drove over to Coldfoot camp on the other side of the Dalton Highway. The American Dingo had to wait in the G6 while SPHP disappeared into the restaurant.

The wait was longer than Lupe expected. Coldfoot camp had a breakfast buffet going on. All you can eat for only $14.95, an absolute bargain way up here N of the Arctic Circle! SPHP ate an enormous breakfast – eggs, pancakes, muffins, sausage, bacon, ham, water, root beer, and coffee. It was great! More than hour after SPHP went in, Lupe got to enjoy a few pieces of smuggled out bacon.

SPHP gassed up the G6, another bargain at only $4.599 per gallon, and Loop was on her way again on the Dalton Highway.

Whoa, SPHP! Wrong way!

Nope! We’re fine, Loopster.

No, we’re not! You turned R, we’re going back N again!

Yeppers!

I thought we were going S. Aren’t we leaving the Arctic?

We were, but now we’re not.

Why not? Where are we going then?

It’s Deadhorse or bust, Loopster! I changed my mind. We can’t just leave! You’re going to go as far N as we can get. We’ve come all this way clear up to the Brooks Range two years running now. Just doesn’t feel right not to go all the way to the end of the Dalton Highway. We may never return. This may be our last chance. Whether we can see anything or not out on the North Slope, and whether or not you can get to the Arctic Ocean, we’re just going to do it.

Oh, exciting! I hope we see some caribou and musk ox on the North Slope! A polar bear would be totally awesome! Can I ask a favor, though?

Sure, what is it?

Since we’re going to go by it again, can we stop at the Dietrich River and go on my 2016 Last Mile North adventure by the Alaska oil pipeline again? I love that place!

Of course! That’s a great idea. We’ll do it, but maybe just to the stream N of Dillon Mountain instead of all the way to its confluence with the Dietrich River. I drove so far S before changing my mind that Deadhorse is a long way off now, and who knows what the road will be like N of the Brooks Range? I’m hoping we can still get to Deadhorse tonight.

Lupe did get to go on her 2016 Last Mile North adventure again! Even though she didn’t get to go all the way to the stream’s confluence with the Dietrich River, Loop had a blast! So easy, and so much fun!

Lupe at the stream that flows W from N of **Dillon Mountain (4,820 ft.)** (R). This was Lupe’s 3rd time now on her 2016 Last Mile North adventure, which has become a real favorite. Photo looks SE.

Then it was N again, on to the Chandalar Shelf. It was nearly 1:00 PM when Lupe arrived this time. Weather conditions hadn’t changed much since this morning. Once again SPHP deemed conditions too iffy, and now the hour too late, to seriously consider an ascent of Table Mountain.

Lupe returns to the **Chandalar Shelf**. She’s about 9 miles from Atigun Pass here. Photo looks ESE.

Looking S across the **Chandalar Shelf** toward **Table Mountain**. The top of the mountain is completely hidden in the clouds. SPHP again concluded conditions weren’t right for an ascent.

When Lupe went over Atigun Pass again, the weather was better than it had been early this morning. It was no longer snowing. The slushy snow on the Dalton Highway had melted. There were even patches of blue sky. The mountains were visible now, instead of cloaked with fog. They looked dramatic – all clean, cold and white.

Heading N again on the way to Atigun Pass from the Chandalar Shelf. Photo looks NE.

Lupe near the Dalton Highway N of Atigun Pass again.

The mountains of the **Brooks Range** looked clean, cold and white.

The better weather did not extend much beyond Atigun Pass. Soon the sky was totally overcast again. As Lupe followed the Atigun River N, the mountains were all hidden in clouds and fog.

Yesterday morning, Lupe had taken her Stroll to the North Slope Knoll, a short hike not far from milepost 278 of the Dalton Highway out onto the tundra. At the time, it had seemed likely to be as far N as Lupe was ever going to be in her whole life. Due to the current sudden change of plans, however, that was already no longer true. Still, the Stroll to the North Slope Knoll had been a fun experience. Why not repeat it before continuing N and setting a new record? Lupe was totally in favor of the idea. (2:33 PM, 41°F)

This time, SPHP went 500 feet beyond the endpoint of Lupe’s first Stroll to the North Slope Knoll. Lupe went even farther, racing 200 yards past SPHP out over the yellow tundra, sniffing and exploring as she went.

On her 2nd Stroll to the North Slope Knoll adventure, Lupe went even farther than she did yesterday morning. Photo looks NW.

The mood of Lupe’s second Stroll to the North Slope Knoll was entirely different. Instead of being the expected end of all her explorations N, this time it was merely a preliminary launching point. Lupe wasn’t going to have to turn around having seen only the very S end of the North Slope. From here, Lupe was going all the way to Deadhorse at the end of the Dalton Highway! Who knew what she might see along the way? It was all a grand mystery. A mystery about to be revealed.

This 2nd Stroll to the North Slope Knoll felt different. This time it was not the expected end of Lupe’s explorations N, but a launching point. This time it was Deadhorse or bust! An exciting new adventure was about to begin! Who knew what Lupe might see out on Alaska’s North Slope? It was all a mystery about to be revealed! Photo looks WNW.

When Lupe returned to the G6 at 3:20 PM, the adventures of the North Slope Dingo were about to begin in earnest. If the G6 was tough enough, only 136 more miles on the Dalton Highway would bring the American Dingo to its far N end at milepost 414 in Deadhorse. Though Lupe would never get to Alaska’s N coast due to security restrictions, the Carolina Dog would be only a few miles from the Arctic Ocean!

And so it began. Leaving the Stroll to the North Slope Knoll behind, Lupe and SPHP headed N on the Dalton Highway. The road was fine for a number of miles. Lupe soon saw Toolik Lake off to the W. The highway made a sharp turn to the E here.

The weather deteriorated. Mist and light rain. The Dalton Highway was full of mud puddles. The road went up and down over a series of hills. The most worrisome stretches were where the road was soft and muddy, but that wasn’t its most common condition. Far more often it was rough and washboardy, with long stretches of jarring potholes.

The G6 wasn’t built for this kind of abuse. The only defense against the rough road was to drive very slowly. That was OK. It didn’t actually matter how long it took the Carolina Dog to get to Deadhorse. The Dalton Highway went NE for a while before turning N again. A dozen miles from the Stroll to the North Slope Knoll, Lupe saw two seagulls!

4:14 PM, 110 to 115 miles from Deadhorse – The road has improved, no longer as rough and full of potholes as it had been going over the hills. To the W is a fairly high mountain, a lone one with its top lost in clouds and mist. It isn’t far from the Dalton Highway. If the weather was better, maybe Lupe could climb it? What can be seen of it certainly looks climbable. Remember this mountain for the return trip S!

Farther away off to the E and NE are lots more mountains, no doubt a continuation of the Brooks Range. However, there is no way to get over there. From the G6, Lupe has caught glimpses of a large river between the highway and those mountains to the E.

Lupe on the Dalton Highway 110-115 miles from Deadhorse. The rain and mist have finally let up, but it’s still a low ceiling day. Photo looks NE.

Oh, that looks like a fun, easy mountain to climb! No way to get over there, though. Lupe has caught glimpses of a large river between here and there from the G6. Photo looks SE.

4:40 PM, 105 miles from Deadhorse – Since leaving the Brooks Range, the Dalton Highway has only come to small streams. Up until now, that is. The large river Lupe caught glimpses of earlier is now only 300 to 600 feet E of the road. This must be the Sagavanirktok River. The Sag flows N all the way to Deadhorse, where it empties into the Beaufort Sea. It’s not yet a huge river. The Sagavanirktok is only slightly lower in elevation than the highway. The intervening ground appears quite swampy.

An industrial complex is on the W side of the highway, presumably some sort of pumping or maintenance station for the Alaska oil pipeline.

The **Sagavanirktok River** flows N near the Dalton Highway on its way to Deadhorse and the Beaufort Sea. Photo looks N.

Although most of the North Slope appeared to be as yet almost totally unspoiled, every so often Lupe came to industrial areas like this one. They were almost certainly somehow connected with maintenance or operation of the Alaska oil pipeline. Photo looks SW.

Looking back toward some of the foothills of the **Brooks Range**. Photo looks S.

5:05 PM – Lupe has a great view of the Sagavanirktok River, Alaska oil pipeline, and Dalton Highway from Oil Spill Hill. The road subsequently drops down into the river valley for several miles before climbing back out of it at Ice Cut.

Once the **Sagavanirktok River** gets close to the Dalton Highway, the river parallels the road the rest of the way to Deadhorse. However, it’s not always in view like this. Photo looks NE.

Although Lupe watched for wildlife along the **Sagavanirktok River** for a long time, she never saw anything other than birds. That was disappointing. A musk ox would have been really cool! Photo looks NE.

5:15 PM, 90 miles to Deadhorse – Now that the Dalton Highway is up out of the Sagavanirktok River valley N of Ice Cut, the river is out of sight. The North Slope is a golden rolling featureless land stretching as far as one can see to low hills on the horizon. Larger hills are off to the E beyond the Alaska oil pipeline, but the Brooks Range is no longer in view. To the W there is nothing except a distant tower on a gentle rise.

The North Slope Dingo seems to have lost hope of seeing any wildlife in this barren land. She’s taken to snoozing.

The **North Slope** about 90 miles from Deadhorse. Golden boreal tundra stretches to low hills on the horizon. A lone tower (L) sits atop a gentle rise. Photo looks WNW with help from the telephoto lens.

80 miles from Deadhorse – Widely scattered patches of sunlight appear on the yellow tundra. A few patches of blue sky exist. The clouds are low, but apparently not that thick.

The North Slope Dingo is awake again, but still has seen no animals. The reason is becoming increasingly clear. For many miles, pickup trucks have often been in view parked along the access roads to the Alaska oil pipeline, especially near the Sagavanirktok River. People are sometimes seen nearby. They often wear at least some orange. Hunters! No wonder whatever wildlife exists has fled beyond vision. Sad.

76 miles from Deadhorse – Pavement! The first pavement since S of the Atigun River 75 miles ago. A nice 6 or 7 mile stretch, then it’s back to mud and gravel.

6:00 PM, 45°F, 67 miles from Deadhorse – The Sagavanirktok River, which has only occasionally been visible from the Dalton Highway, now curves away to the NE flowing along the base of a line of low bluffs that has been in view for miles. The bluffs had been bathed in sunlight, but by the time the North Slope Dingo arrives for a photo, the light is past its best. Minutes later it is gone.

67 miles from Deadhorse, the **Sagavanirktok River** curves away to the NE flowing along the base of a line of low bluffs. Photo looks NE.

6:20 PM, 62 miles from Deadhorse – The North Slope Dingo stops at a rare pullout about 0.25 mile N of the top of a big, very gently sloping hill. The river is nowhere in sight here, but a faint rainbow is off to the NE. The boreal tundra is a yellow patchwork of sunlight and fog. As clouds and fog drift by, patterns of light and shadow move W to E across a golden land sliding away to the N. Overhead a patch of blue sky sails by.

No traffic at all lately. Even the hunters don’t seem to be out and about.

62 miles from Deadhorse, the North Slope Dingo spied this faint rainbow. Photo looks ENE.

The boreal tundra is a patchwork of sunlight and shadow as low clouds, fog, and bits of blue sky drift by. Photo looks NNE.

Same view with a little help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks NNE.

Almost immediately after leaving the faint rainbow and partially sunlit tundra behind, SPHP drives into rain and fog. A few minutes later, the Dalton Highway is paved again, but this time only for a couple of miles. Then it’s back to the usual mud and gravel. 4 or 5 miles later, a sign says road work next 51 miles, basically the rest of the way to Deadhorse. Get stopped by a flagman who says it’s a 20 minute wait.

The flagman has been working here every day since June 9th. $30/hr base pay and $45/hr overtime. Most days are 13 hours, and some are as many as 16. He has seen caribou, musk oxen, wolves, grizzly and polar bears, and lots of birds. Lupe will only have to follow the pilot car for 14 miles. The G6 is the only vehicle following the pilot car once it arrives. The pilot car races along the muddy road at 40 mph.

7:38 PM, 30 to 35 miles from Deadhorse – No traffic at all. The land is very flat. A 2 tiered bluff exists a mile to the E. To the W, nothing but a tiny hill in otherwise level terrain. 6 geese are flying S.

30 to 35 miles from Deadhorse the Dalton Highway is damp, but in good shape. The terrain is like a pancake. Photo looks N.

A mile E of the highway is a 2 tiered bluff. Photo looks ENE.

8:17 PM, 42°F, 15 to 17 miles from Deadhorse – Saw the sun’s position through a weak spot in the clouds about 15 minutes ago. The sun won’t set for another 2.5 hours yet. For the past 10 miles, the Dalton Highway has been on a roadbed raised 15 feet above the surrounding terrain. The terrain is even flatter than before. Most of it appears to be part of a vast swamp, with occasional stretches of open water.

The Sagavanirktok River was briefly in view again lurking near the base of the 2 tier bluff. That bluff ran for miles along the same course before coming to an end. A single tier bluff then picked up again a mile ENE of the highway close to where the 2 tier bluff faded away. It also runs for miles. The bluff is now several miles from the Dalton Highway, hidden by fog.

The sky is uniformly gray. Visibility is only a mile or two. Lupe saw a couple of small buttes off to the W looking like ghosts on the horizon. They didn’t amount to much.

15 to 17 miles from Deadhorse. The Dalton Highway is on a raised roadbed about 15 feet above the surrounding swampy terrain. A fairly large stretch of open water is seen beyond Loop. Photo looks NE.

The Dalton Highway remains on a raised roadbed like this the rest of the way to Deadhorse. The North Slope Dingo was now assured of getting there! Photo looks N.

8:54 PM – Success! It’s like a dream. The North Slope Dingo has made it to the outskirts of Deadhorse. The end of the Dalton Highway is only a couple of miles farther. Lupe is what, maybe 8 miles S of Prudhoe Bay?

Deadhorse is as others have described it to SPHP – an industrial complex almost exclusively dedicated to the energy industry. Nothing resembling a town is in sight. Not a single house or residential street. No business district catering to the public.

The closest thing to a retail business is Deadhorse Camp, which Loop finds near the start of Deadhorse on the L. It’s a hotel of sorts, catering mostly to oilfield workers who essentially live there, but also to members of the public who manage to make it to the end of the Dalton Highway. It’s also where it’s possible to arrange for a shuttle bus tour to the Arctic Ocean.

Success! The North Slope Dingo arrives on the outskirts of **Deadhorse**. As expected, everything in sight has an industrial look to it. No sign of any traditional town at all.

**Deadhorse** is 99% about the energy business and producing oil for the Alaska oil pipeline, which starts here.

One unexpected thing about **Deadhorse** and the energy industry it serves was how spread out it all was. Wide areas of swamp and tundra separate numerous far flung industrial installations.

Geese like to hang out around the Deadhorse Camp building.

Oh, yeah! Here’s proof that the North Slope Dingo made it all the way to **Deadhorse.** Lupe stands outside the Deadhorse Camp building, located on the L side of the Dalton Highway shortly after reaching Deadhorse. This is one of several “hotels” in Deadhorse. They all have a similar appearance. Some only accommodate oilfield workers.

Even though SPHP had been told on the phone before Lupe ever left home that Dingoes aren’t allowed to take the Arctic Ocean tour, SPHP was still planning on asking again for Lupe. Maybe it was still possible with enough in-person groveling or bribery?

The Arctic Ocean shuttle! That was what Loop wanted to take. If she was refused, she would have to send SPHP as her personal representative.

Now that the North Slope Dingo was in Deadhorse, SPHP wasn’t certain exactly what to do. Looking for a gas station seemed like a good place to start. From Deadhorse Camp, SPHP drove farther into Deadhorse. After a couple of bends, the Dalton Highway finally ended at a T intersection. SPHP took a left and eventually stumbled upon the Prudhoe Bay Hotel near the Alaska Airlines terminal at the Deadhorse Airport.

Unused drilling rigs stand lined up across a lake in Deadhorse.

Alaska Airlines seems to be the only airline serving the Deadhorse airport. The terminal was closed when Loop arrived on a Sunday night.

While Lupe remained in the G6, SPHP went into the Prudhoe Bay Hotel seeking information. Signs in the entryway commanded that everyone entering wear disposable boot covers to help keep the place clean. Free, bright blue slip-on boot covers were available from a box. SPHP put a pair on, then went on in.

Long well lit hallways led off in 3 directions. Not a soul was in sight. The front desk turned out to be some distance down the hall straight ahead from the entrance. A clerk gave SPHP a free map of Deadhorse on a single sheet of paper, and circled where the 2 gas stations are located. After thanking the clerk, SPHP wandered the hallways.

A large map of Alaska’s N coast was framed under glass on one wall. It showed the locations of numerous energy installations, and the names of a great many geographical features. Lots of history was provided on who first explored the Alaskan coast and named various islands, points, peninsulas, etc. The map was extraordinarily interesting. SPHP read much of it, which took a while. Meanwhile, absolutely no one came or went in the silent hall.

Light was fading when SPHP returned to Loop, still waiting patiently in the G6. It was starting to get foggy. One of the gas stations was close by. It was a small unmanned facility. SPHP couldn’t even figure out how to work it. Splendid. Oh, well. Can figure it out tomorrow.

Loop and SPHP drove around Deadhorse a bit. There weren’t many roads, yet it seemed like a maze. In growing darkness and gloomy fog, the whole place was sort of eerie. Almost no traffic at all. Now and then a pickup truck or semi truck appeared, then vanished. No one was out and about. Deadhorse was sort of a ghost town, but then it was late on a Sunday night and energy prices were depressed. Maybe like Skagway, Deadhorse would be busier Monday morning?

Lupe and SPHP drove past clusters of energy related service businesses. They were all dark, except for security lights. Widely scattered in the distance were more clusters of buildings, some quite brightly lit. No houses, no businesses of any kind other than energy related companies and a few boxy “hotels”. Weird, kind of creepy, but cool, too.

Returning to the Dalton Highway, SPHP drove back to within sight of Deadhorse Camp. Several pickup trucks with campers were parked at big pullouts overlooking the Sagavanirktok River. Even a few tents were pitched out on the gravel. Apparently it was OK to stay here. Perfect! This would do nicely. SPHP parked the G6. Tomorrow Loopster would explore Deadhorse. SPHP hoped the North Slope Dingo could even get permission to see the Arctic Ocean, but she probably wouldn’t.

Couldn’t hurt to try, though, could it?Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Lake Benchmark Mountain, Brooks Range, Alaska (8-19-17)

Day 20 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

3:12 AM, 36°F – Already seems like there’s a bit of light. Lupe was out of her blankie. Pulled it back over her. Keep the puppy warm! Too early. Back to sleep.

4:18 AM, 35°F – Definitely light out now, but the whole world is densely fogged over. Maybe a ground fog like the morning after Lupe climbed Caribou Mountain (3,179 ft.)? If so, it may burn away, but the weak Arctic Sun will take hours to do so. Meanwhile, nothing to do but sleep.

5:35 AM, 35°F – Except for the patch of boreal tundra right here, the whole world is invisible. Misting lightly. Loop went out. Everything’s cold and wet. She’s back in the G6 licking herself off. Have to wait for the fog to lift. Maybe Lupe’s next Dingo Vacation should be to some place with palm trees?

*Okay … so what are we thinking here, SPHP? Cause I’m thinking it’s back under the blankie time!*

8:48 AM, 38°F – The weakling sun has managed to make some progress against the fog. Can see 0.5 mile now. Shared a can of chili and a can of beef and barley soup with Looper. She’s back to dozing.

10:18 AM, 39°F – Sunshine on the hills. Visibility is a few miles. A patch of blue sky is off to the NW. Loopster still conked out! A small knoll exists out on the North Slope maybe 0.25 mile away. It’s lower than where the G6 is, but a bit higher than what’s around it. Should make a decent objective for Lupe’s farthest point N ever. Guess it’s time for her Stroll to the North Slope Knoll!

View of the first high ridge on the N side of the **Brooks Range** from the S edge of the **North Slope**. (Area near Dalton Highway milepost 278.) Photo looks SSE.

Loopster still catching some Z’s in the G6. She must really have been tired!

Daylight in the swamps, Loop!

Hmm? You mean get up? Can we even see the swamps yet, SPHP?

Yes, we actually can. Time for your Stroll to the North Slope Knoll!

Stroll to the North Slope Knoll? What’s that supposed to mean?

Off to the N or NW from here, I see a little rise, a knoll, only slightly above the surrounding terrain. It’s not far at all. We’re going to start what’s left of this morning off with a quick stroll over there. The knoll isn’t even as high as where we are now. Super easy. We’ll be back before you know it.

Oh! A little romp on the North Slope tundra? Sounds like fun to me! Any particular reason we’re doing this? It’s not much like you to want to go to a knoll, SPHP.

Yes, there is a reason. There’s a good chance that knoll is going to wind up being as far N as you and I will ever be in our whole lives. Remember your 2016 Last Mile North trek, which we did again only yesterday? This is like that, except the updated 2017 version of it. Out here on the North Slope just beyond the Brooks Range, you are 71 miles farther N than last year’s record.

So we aren’t going any farther N than this? Yesterday evening you were practically a nutcase about the North Slope!

Oh, I’ve thought about it a lot. If you could take the Arctic Ocean tour, we’d go for sure, but Dingoes aren’t allowed. I don’t think there’s much in the way of mountains we could climb between here and the ocean either. At least I don’t know of any. So maybe it doesn’t make sense to go any farther than this, though I am curious. Galbraith Lake and Lake Benchmark Mountain are as far N as I’d planned for us to go, so this is probably it. We are already a few miles N of both of them.

I see. So we’re just going to take this short Stroll to the North Slope Knoll, oooh and aaah a bit looking at whatever we can see of the North Slope from there, then turn around and come right back?

Eh, yeah, guess that’s about the size of it. So, come on, let’s do it. We have bigger fish to fry after your Stroll to the North Slope Knoll, too.

The Stroll to the North Slope Knoll was a marvelous journey! Learned something right away. Where the tundra was yellow and gold, the ground was boggy and wet. Where reddish and pale green plants were dominant, small rocks and drier, firmer footing existed. The tundra had way more yellow and gold on offer than reds and pale greens, but SPHP found ways to link up the reds and greens sufficiently to avoid getting wet feet. Lupe sniffed and played wherever she pleased, unconcerned by such trifles as wet paws.

Lupe stands near the start of a long stretch of reds and pale greens leading toward the nearly imperceptible **North Slope Knoll** she was heading for. Photo looks NW.

The tundra also harbored large mushrooms, many more than half a foot in diameter. They weren’t super common, but it wasn’t necessary to look long before finding one, either.

The tundra harbored large mushrooms, often half a foot in diameter.

The North Slope Knoll turned out to be more like 0.33 mile from the G6, not 0.25 mile. Even so, the strange, incredible sensation of walking as far N as one ever would was over all too soon.

The knoll wasn’t all that perceptible even standing there right on it. The rise was almost a figment of SPHP’s imagination, amounting to little more than a short ridge only a few feet high. This was it, though. Likely as far N in the world as Lupe and SPHP would ever be.

A patch of green next to a barely medium-sized rock seemed to be as high as anything else. That rock would do. It could be the official endpoint of the Stroll to the North Slope Knoll. Naturally, congratulations were in order. SPHP shook Lupe’s paw, praising her for reaching the North Slope of Alaska beyond the Brooks Range.

The views of the North Slope were beautiful. Rolling tundra, small lakes, big hills. In the distance, small mountains. All empty and pristine, as if humanity’s teeming billions didn’t exist. The world looking as it always had for eons, yet for how much longer? A blink of an eye? A depressing thought, but only SPHP’s. To the American Dingo the world looked as it should, completely normal.

*Completely normal? Oh, I don’t know about that, SPHP! The **North Slope** is pretty and vast and empty enough, but is in desperate need of more squirrels!* Photo looks N.

On the patch of green at the end of the Stroll to the North Slope Knoll. Photo looks NW.

Looper at the **North Slope Knoll**, as far N as she had ever been. She’s broken her old 2016 record by 71 miles here.

Looking back from the North Slope Knoll toward the Dalton Highway and Alaska oil pipeline. The G6 is a mere dark spec on the R. Photo looks SSE.

Lupe and SPHP returned to the G6 energized and enthusiastic! (10:58 AM, 40°F) The Stroll to the North Slope Knoll, though short, had been an amazing, fun experience to remember always. Now it was time for Lupe to make an attempt on Lake Benchmark Mountain, the mountain at the far N end of the Brooks Range she had come so far to climb.

Feeling sad, SPHP drove S on the Dalton Highway. If the sky would clear up for a little while this afternoon, Lupe should have a tremendous view of Alaska’s North Slope from Lake Benchmark Mountain. However, she would never again actually be out on the North Slope, and as far N as she had just been at the little knoll.

Lupe on the Dalton Highway on her way S again. She hasn’t gotten far yet. **Galbraith Lake** is in view. Photo looks S.

The Galbraith Lake airport is beyond **Lake 2660** on the L. Photo looks SW from the Dalton Highway.

After crossing the bridge over the Atigun River, SPHP parked the G6 at a large parking lot on the W side of the Dalton Highway. Lupe would start for Lake Benchmark Mountain (5,000 ft.) from here. (11:32 AM, 42°F)

Lupe at the parking lot on the W side of the Dalton Highway just S of the Atigun River. SPHP mistakenly believed Lake Benchmark Mountain was the high distant ridge seen straight up from Lupe. Photo looks N.

Lupe started out by crossing the Dalton Highway bridge back over to the N bank of the Atigun River. She continued N on the highway to a side road that went E to the Alaska oil pipeline service road.

Following the oil pipeline service road is always fun and easy! Lupe had a good time racing around on the tundra nearby, while SPHP stuck to the road going N.

Looper on the Dalton Highway bridge over the **Atigun River**. **Peak 5308** is at Center. Photo looks E.

Loopster having a blast on the Alaska oil pipeline service road. Soon she would have to leave it to climb the big ridge on the R. Photo looks N.

A crow wonders what a Carolina Dog is doing way up here at the N end of the Brooks Range?

The Dalton Highway and Alaska oil pipeline head off to the NW. Alaska’s North Slope is only a few miles away. Photo looks N.

A beautiful, high rounded ridge was NE of the Alaska oil pipeline. That ridge was the way to Lake Benchmark Mountain. After 0.5 mile, Lupe and SPHP left the pipeline service road to start climbing. The lower and upper slopes of the ridge were spongy, boggy, and full of tussocks. Only the steepest part of the ridge was relatively dry. Lupe followed a long ravine containing a small stream as she climbed NE.

Loop enjoys fresh bog water shortly after leaving the oil pipeline service road.

At the base of the beautiful rounded ridge Lupe was about to climb. The ridge proved to be surprisingly wet territory except where it was steepest. Photo looks ENE.

SPHP marched steadily upward while Lupe ran happily exploring the wide open spaces. Once in a while, the Carolina Dog roamed so far away she was completely out of sight. SPHP had to call her back then lest she decide the life of the wild Dingo was for her. Meanwhile, the views of Galbraith Lake and the Atigun River back to the S and W were becoming increasingly impressive.

After a good climb, Lupe has a terrific view back toward the **Atigun River valley**. Photo looks S.

Lupe went on beyond the end of the stream. The slope of the ridge was gradually diminishing, but Lupe never came to any definite ridgeline. She was wandering up an enormous slope that kept going higher. The whole place was spongy, boggy tundra, full of tussocks.

A big hill was ahead at the far N end of the ridge. SPHP believed this hill was either part of Lake Benchmark Mountain or would lead to it, but wanted to get a view of the territory E of here in order to confirm that opinion. Although Loop went NE for what seemed like a long way, she never did get to a viewpoint. She just kept going higher and higher.

Ahead was a big hill that SPHP believed was either part of Lake Benchmark Mountain or would lead to it. Efforts to get a view of what was E (R) of here failed. The slope just kept going gradually higher and higher that way. Photo looks N.

Before Lupe got high enough to see anything to the E, clouds and fog blew in out of the W. Hopefully they were temporary phenomena. Looper was looking forward to a glorious panoramic view of the North Slope from the top of Lake Benchmark Mountain.

The fog made it certain Lupe wasn’t going to be able to get a view to the E now. She gave up on that idea, and headed straight for the big hill at the end of the ridge.

With fog starting to roll in, SPHP decided maybe Lupe ought to head straight for the big hill. Photo looks NNW.

Fog completely took over. The hill Lupe was heading for disappeared. So did everything else except immediately surrounding terrain. SPHP used occasional large isolated boulders to help keep Loop aimed in the right direction, sighting along them to the next boulder the American Dingo should head for.

Lupe reached the base of the hill, and began to climb more steeply. She went up a series of rocky ramps and benches. Although Lupe still came to patches of vegetation, overall this was much firmer ground free of the bogs and tussocks present lower down on the big ridge. SPHP had a far easier time here, despite the greater angle of ascent.

Loop keeps going up the rocky ramps despite the fog.

*Fog is getting thicker, SPHP! … I see that Loop. It’s about the only thing I see besides you.*

Partway up the hill, Lupe came to a level area where there was more vegetation again. By now a cold rain had started in. Suddenly Loop wasn’t having as much fun as before.

SPHP started becoming concerned about what little could be seen. A substantial cliff dropped into a gray abyss along the NE side of this level area. According to the topo map, it shouldn’t have been there. It most certainly was, though. To the NW, the hill went still higher, but nothing at all could be seen to the E except more fog.

Partway up, Lupe stumbles onto a flat spot with more vegetation again. To the NW, the hill rose still higher, but to the E there was a cliff on the NE side of the hill. According to the topo map, that cliff shouldn’t have been there. Photo looks NW.

That cliff was bothersome. It couldn’t be reconciled with the topo map at all, if Lupe was actually on her way up Lake Benchmark Mountain. SPHP was beginning to suspect maybe Lupe was too far W. Who could tell, though, in this rain and fog?

May as well check out the rest of the hill to the NW. Lupe climbed two higher ridges. She wasn’t at the top of anything significant yet. All she could see was another two even higher ridges farther up the slope. The highest ridge was shaped vaguely like what Lake Benchmark Mountain’s summit ought to look like, but hardly any detail could be seen. How much higher was it? SPHP guessed maybe 500 or 600 vertical feet.

The rain, which had slackened up for a little bit, now turned to snow. The snow wasn’t sticking yet, but added to SPHP’s growing sense of uneasiness. Lupe wasn’t uneasy. She was just getting plain old wet, cold and miserable.

Wandering around up on mountains at the N end of Alaska’s Brooks Range in rain and snow with almost no visibility? Maybe this was getting just a little too stupid. SPHP asked Loopster if she wanted to go back to the G6? The American Dingo gave her most ecstatic, enthusiastic response possible.

A bitter defeat, but there seemed to be no sensible alternative. Dang weather, anyway! How long had it been since Lupe had seen a truly sunny day now? Seemed like forever ago. Every day it was dodging clouds and rain. Lupe and SPHP headed WSW, starting back down.

Loop on a huge rock shortly after starting down. Photo looks NW.

I hate to give up, but we can’t see a thing. It’s raining or snowing all the time so I’m cold and soaking wet, and SPHP doesn’t seem to have a clue where we are. Under the circumstances a meal and a warm blankie back at the G6 is sounding mighty good to me! I mean, what would you do?

Lupe hadn’t lost much elevation yet when suddenly a break appeared in the clouds. Galbraith Lake was in sight! Out came the topo map for comparison with the lake to try to get reoriented again. SPHP quickly became convinced Lupe wasn’t on Lake Benchmark Mountain at all. She was somewhere on the upper S slopes of Peak 4700! She was indeed a mile too far W, as SPHP had begun to suspect a while back.

While SPHP was still pondering the implications of this discovery, the sky cleared off to the NW, too. Lupe could clearly see several high points over that way. Another review of the topo map convinced SPHP that Peak 4700 was really the next peak over to the WNW. In that case, Lupe actually was somewhere on Lake Benchmark Mountain.

The views disappeared again as another batch of clouds plunged the hill Lupe was on back into fog. Still, the brief break in the weather had been encouraging. Maybe conditions were beginning to improve? The hasty decision to return to the G6 was rescinded. Lupe and SPHP set off back up whatever hill or mountain this was.

The climb to the top wasn’t nearly as far as the fog had made it seem. After gaining only 200 to 250 feet of elevation, Lupe was approaching a line of boulders on what appeared to be part of a summit ridge. Looper scrambled up a gap between boulders. A survey pin could be seen only 20 feet away to the E! Hopes soared that maybe Lupe had just stumbled upon Lake Benchmark?

No, there wasn’t a benchmark, just a survey pin. Looper and SPHP searched the tops of the highest boulders along the ridgeline. Nothing. The top of the survey pin was clearly stamped “Coronary Apsoo No. 4”. Clear alright. Clear as mud. Meant absolutely nothing to SPHP. It may as well have been Chinese.

Lupe relaxes near Coronary Apsoo No. 4 (Center), while SPHP draws a blank as to what it meant. The obvious next step was to go to the higher point seen through the fog. Photo looks NE?

*Oh, of course I know what Coronary Apsoo No. 4 means! Who doesn’t? I’m just seeing if you know, SPHP. Come on, figure it out!*

Apparently Coronary Apsoo No. 4 meant “Go to the obviously higher point so close by that you can even see it through the fog, dummy!” Nothing else really sprang to mind. So after drawing a blank by this first survey pin, Lupe and SPHP headed NE on a short easy ridge walk to a noticeably higher point nearby.

The next high point appeared to be the top of the mountain. The summit area wasn’t huge but was plenty big enough to wander around a bit. No survey benchmark could be found up here, either, only another survey pin stamped with an equally cryptic message.

Lupe must be at the top of either Lake Benchmark Mountain or Peak 4700, but which was it? Lupe stood in the rain while SPHP tried to work it out. A slightly lower narrow rock ridge was in view to the E or SE, but didn’t look nearly large enough or long enough to be Lake Benchmark Mountain’s E ridge. A short distance to the N was a subpeak nearly as high as where Lupe was. That didn’t look right either.

In mist and fog Lupe stands at the top of the mountain. The question was, which mountain was it? The narrow, slightly lower rock ridge seen in the fog beyond Loop didn’t appear nearly large or long enough to be Lake Benchmark Mountain’s E ridge. Photo looks ESE?

Not too far to the N was a subpeak almost as high as where Lupe was. That didn’t match up with what the topo map showed for Lake Benchmark Mountain, either. Photo looks N.

On a sunny day, there wouldn’t have been any question where Lupe was. It appeared more and more that she might well be at the top of Peak 4700. However, if this was actually Lake Benchmark Mountain, there ought to be a “Lake” survey benchmark back somewhere along the line of boulders near the first Coronary Apsoo No. 4 survey pin. Looper returned to the pin and once more searched diligently along the line of boulders. Nothing.

One last thing to try. Loop and SPHP returned to the mountain’s summit, then continued over to the N subpeak. Nope. Not a thing here either. So this was almost certainly Peak 4700. Due to the fog, Lupe had climbed the wrong mountain!

The heavy mist turned to snow. Sheesh! Better head down.

Lupe lost 200 feet of elevation. The snow quit again. Already it wasn’t as foggy as higher up. Maybe Looper should angle SE hoping to catch a glimpse of Lake Benchmark Mountain? Seemed like a reasonable course of action.

On the way down **Peak 4700**, the mountain Lupe had no intention of climbing, but did. Photo looks N.

Going down the ramps and benches, Lupe started to discern the faint foggy outline of some big hill off to the E. Lake Benchmark Mountain? Seemed like it had to be. The Carolina Dog reached the fairly level area she had been to on the way up Peak 4700. She headed E near the cliff to the NE. Yes! No mistake. Lake Benchmark Mountain was in view!

The big hill at Center is the W end of **Lake Benchmark Mountain**. Photo looks E.

Wow, there was still a pretty big elevation drop between here and there! At least it wasn’t as foggy out as earlier. The really good news was that what could be seen of Lake Benchmark Mountain looked climbable. Just a really big, fairly steep hill, but no worse than that.

Now or never! By the time Looper had worked her way down Peak 4700’s long SE ridge to a wide boggy flats leading to Lake Benchmark Mountain, she had lost 600 feet of elevation. She would have to regain it all plus another 200 feet to reach Lake Benchmark’s summit.

The climb was definitely steeper than Peak 4700 had been. The lower slope was easy. As things became steeper, lanes of vegetation leading up scree covered slopes helped. Lupe eventually reached areas of nothing but scree. Fortunately she had already regained a ton of elevation by then.

Starting up the W end of **Lake Benchmark Mountain**. Easy down here, just a big hill! Photo looks NE.

Higher up on the scree slopes looking back at **Peak 4700**, which Lupe had just climbed in the fog by mistake. Photo looks W.

By the time the slope of the mountain moderated, Lupe was pretty high. She was back into fog, and it was snowing. The snow was starting to stick. A series of wide, relatively level areas covered with vegetation ran roughly E/W in long strips. These strips of land were separated by minor slopes or ridges, which presented walls of rock or lines of boulders in some areas, although it was always possible to go around them.

Lupe followed each of these vegetated bands some distance E before turning N and climbing up to the next one. The climbs were short and never difficult.

Loopster fairly high up on the W end of Lake Benchmark Mountain now. She’s near the start of the E/W bands of vegetation separated by ridges where there was more rock. The bands to the N were higher than those to the S. Photo looks NNE.

Loop on another strip of vegetation with a typical rock wall providing separation from the next higher band beyond it. Photo looks NE.

After crossing several of these vegetated bands and climbing to higher ones, Lupe was faced with a more formidable, longer wall of rock. Was that the summit ridge? It certainly seemed possible. The Carolina Dog traveled E below the wall of rock until she reached a place where it was possible to scramble up. Nope. Not the summit. Off to the NE was an even higher rounded hill.

Lupe could get up on that rounded hill easily enough! She went right to it and was soon on top. Poking around a collection of rocks at the high point revealed nothing. Then suddenly, there it was! Lower down, a little farther E, some sort of survey marker was sticking up from a loosely assembled modest cairn. Was it true? Was that it?

Oh, yeah! This was it! Lupe had found the really, truly, genuine Lake Benchmark. Celebration time!

A wet Dingo stands next to the authentic Lake Benchmark.

*All I can say is, thank heavens it’s not stamped Coronary Apsoo No. 5!* Loop next to the Lake Benchmark (lower R). Photo looks W.

Although finding the Lake Benchmark was cause for joy and undeniable proof that Lupe was actually on the right mountain this time around, the survey benchmark was not quite at the top of the mountain. The topo map showed an elevation of 4,928 feet here. However, it also showed a small area within a 5,000 foot contour not too far away to the E.

If Lupe wanted to claim a peakbagging success, she needed to go find that higher ground where the true summit of Lake Benchmark Mountain had to be. After going through all this miserable weather and climbing the wrong mountain, the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood most certainly did want to claim a peakbagging success here, too! Whether she could see anything or not!

So after congratulations and a brief celebration at the actual Lake survey benchmark, Lupe and SPHP headed E along a relatively narrow level ridge looking for the summit.

Joy turned to dismay. Loop hadn’t gone far, when up ahead, ghostly rock formations appeared in the fog. They looked potentially unclimbable for the American Dingo.

Lupe hadn’t gone far from the Lake survey benchmark when she saw a potentially unclimbable rock formation ahead. No!!! Photo looks ENE.

SPHP’s fears were unjustified. Lupe reached the summit area to find massive boulders and a wall of rock, but open lanes existed providing her an easy scramble to the top. And just like that, Lupe was there, perched at the undeniable summit of Lake Benchmark Mountain (5,000 ft.)! Oh, happy day!

*Could maybe have picked a better day for this, SPHP! The mighty, spectacular, sweeping view of the North Slope from here isn’t all it’s been cracked up to be!*

The summit was a knob of rock perhaps 20 feet long and 5 feet wide. The S side of this knob was a solid rock wall 6 to 8 feet high next to a level patch of tundra. To the N, the knob sloped steeply away toward a chasm of undetermined depth. Of course, standing up there in light rain and fog, Lupe could see none of the glorious view of the North Slope that she had come so far to see, and would have had on a clear day.

Lupe astride the true summit. Most of the summit knob is seen here. Photo looks NW.

Lake Benchmark Mountain was a grand peakbagging success for the Carolina Dog, but a complete scenic fail. That really was a shame, since Lake Benchmark Mountain was likely destined to be the northernmost peak Loopster would ever climb in her whole life, and the views ought to have been spectacular.

Lupe thinking deeply profound Dingo thoughts about the significance of being way up here in N Alaska at the top of this fabulous mountain in the Brooks Range.

*Hey, SPHP! I was just thinking, since the views are a total bust, did you bring anything to eat?*

At least Loop had gotten to see the North Slope this morning on her Stroll to the North Slope Knoll. Better yet, yesterday evening she had arrived at a fantastic, magical moment to see it for the first time ever when there was rain and sunshine and rainbows and a sea of gold out there. Still would have been fantastic to see the North Slope from up here, but that’s the way it goes.

With no views, and no real hope of seeing them anytime today, there wasn’t much point in hanging around up here in the chilly rain for long. Shaking her cold, wet paw and trying to make her achievement sound as grand as possible, SPHP congratulated Lupe on her Dingo persistence and ultimate success in getting to the top of Lake Benchmark Mountain. Lupe loved the attention, but looked rather miserable.

Lupe was ready to go. A mere 10 minutes after arriving, Lupe and SPHP began the descent. By the ghostly rocks, Loop paused for a final look back.

Looking back at the ghostly summit. Photo looks ENE.

Leaving **Lake Benchmark Mountain**. Photo looks ENE.

The rocky apparitions vanished from sight almost as soon as Lupe left them. She would never see them again.

Going back down the bands again was pretty easy. SPHP had built a cairn on the way up to help mark the route, but Loop didn’t come across it. It started snowing again for a little while, but turned to rain lower down on the steeper scree slopes.

For 10 minutes, the clouds lifted a bit. Lupe could see the Atigun River 2,000 feet lower at the bottom of a deep valley to the S. Off to the SW, where it was still foggy, the fog had a strange brownish tinge. It looked like smoke. Smoke? How could that possibly be? SPHP puzzled for a moment or two, before the fog thinned.

That wasn’t smoke! That was the golden boggy tundra way down there on the big ridge Lupe had come up at the start. Loop was going the right way. She was heading straight for it.

Lupe reaches the low ground W of Lake Benchmark Mountain. **Peak 4700** is in fog ahead. Lupe wasn’t going there again. She went SSW (L) instead. Photo looks WNW.

The fog returned. The big boggy ridge seemed endless. It rained the whole time. For a while, Lupe trudged along sopping wet and depressed at SPHP’s heels. Finally, something caught her interest. The Carolina Dog was off like a shot. Despite the rain, she ran great distances. Loop was having fun again! She ran and sniffed the rest of the way.

At last, Lupe was far enough down to get below the clouds. Galbraith Lake came back into view. The Dalton Highway and Alaska oil pipeline were down there, too.

Near the end of a long wet march along the huge boggy ridge, **Galbraith Lake** came into view again. Photo looks SW.

Getting there! The **S end of Galbraith Lake** is in view. Lupe still needed to get back down to the **Atigun River** (far L), but that wouldn’t take too long. Photo looks SSW.

Wouldn’t be too long now before Looper was warm and dry, snoozing snugly beneath her blankie with a full belly. Lupe never would see that glorious view of the North Slope from Lake Benchmark Mountain, but she had been up there. She had stood at the very top of a mountain at the N end of the Brooks Range in northern Alaska. Not many Dingoes can say that. (7:29 PM)

On Lake Benchmark Mountain, N end of the Brooks Range in Northern Alaska 8-19-17

Links:

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Lupe in the SCREE! – the Mountaineering Club of Alaska’s monthly newsletter & the story of Henry Pinkham

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