Day 4 & Part of Day 5 of Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon, Northwest Territories & Alaska!
8-7-18, 7:46 AM, 53°F, Banff National Park, Alberta, Canada – SPHP pulled out onto Icefields Parkway Hwy 93. Within minutes, Lupe saw Bow Lake again, and magnificent Mount Jimmy Simpson (9,731 ft.). Yesterday she’d had the grand good fortune to make it to the summit, but mountain climbing wasn’t on the agenda today. This was a rest and travel day.
Not the kind of hurried, don’t stop for anything except restrooms, fuel, and food sort of travel. The Canadian Rockies are too wonderful for that! Although the American Dingo was going hundreds of miles, she would still have opportunities to stop at favorite places along the road.
So that was the plan. By the time Lupe reached Jasper National Park, though, the sky was uncharacteristically hazy. Smoke from distant forest fires dimmed normally crisp views of the mountains.
8-7-18, 9:09 AM, 58°F, Icefields Centre, Jasper National Park – Smoky, but not bad. SPHP stopped so Lupe could see one of the Canadian Rockies’ most amazing views from the highway, the Athabasca Glacier. The huge glacier, one of six major arms of the Columbia Icefield, has retreated a long way over the past century, but remains a must see, if one has any opportunity at all!
Of course, Lupe had seen the Athabasca Glacier before – a couple of times from an even more spectacular vantage point up by Wilcox Pass. Despite the smoke, the view from the highway was still absolutely worthwhile.
As Lupe and SPHP continued N on Icefields Parkway Hwy 93, the smoky haze did not diminish. The smoke marred views of the mountains, but didn’t interfere with sights closer by. Waterfalls, rivers, and lakes were destined to become the focus for the day. Luckily, the Carolina Dog was going to go right past some great ones!
8-7-18, 9:57 AM, 62°F, Sunwapta Falls, Jasper National Park – The first big waterfall N of the Athabasca Glacier was Sunwapta Falls. The silt-laden Sunwapta River was running high. A torrent of light gray water swept by an upstream island then plunged into a narrow gorge immediately downstream.
Lupe checked out the impressive scene from both a bridge over the gorge, and a chain link fence at the very brink of the falls.
8-7-18, 10:28 AM, 68°F, Athabasca River, Jasper National Park – The Sunwapta River flows into the mighty Athabasca River. Athabasca Falls was going to be absolutely roaring today! Before Lupe got that far, though, SPHP stopped at the American Dingo’s favorite picnic ground on the W side of Icefields Parkway Hwy 93.
This choice spot right along the Athabasca River was often completely vacant several years ago when Lupe first discovered it. For some reason there hadn’t been any signage for it along the highway. Signage was sadly present now, but since it was still a bit early for lunch, Lupe found her picnic ground delightfully quiet again this morning.
Loop enjoyed a stroll upstream along the Athabasca River, spent some time roaming the forest looking for squirrels to bark at, and even went wading along the river’s edge. Having skipped breakfast, SPHP had an early lunch at one of the tables overlooking the river, while catching up the trip journal.
8-7-18, 11:31 AM, 75°F, Athabasca Falls, Jasper National Park – The turn to Athabasca Falls was only 5 miles N of the picnic ground. This close to noon on a lovely day in early August, Athabasca Falls was teeming with tourists. Justifiably so. Lupe and SPHP played tourist, too. It was a wait your turn at the viewpoints situation, but totally worth it.
Lupe liked all the activity! People smiled at her, children petted her, plenty of other doggie tourists were available to sniff with, and, of course, there was that enormously powerful waterfall to admire.
8-7-18, 1:07 PM, Yellowhead Pass – The morning had flown by. After a stop for fuel in Jasper, SPHP drove W on Yellowhead Hwy 16. Only 21 miles to the British Columbia border at Yellowhead Pass (3,760 ft.).
SPHP stopped here briefly, so Loop could stretch her legs. A small lake, Portal Lake, was nearby. A sign said there was a 20 minute return trail along Portal Lake, but Lupe didn’t take it. Greater sights were ahead.
8-7-18, 1:38 PM, 72°F, Moose Lake – At the British Columbia border, Lupe also entered Mount Robson Provincial Park. Continuing W on Hwy 16, SPHP expected the sky to clear any time now, but instead the smoke was getting thicker. By the time Lupe made it to Moose Lake, it was hard to see the mountains at all.
Fortunately, there were 2 more big waterfalls ahead to look forward to along the Fraser River.
8-7-18, 1:58 PM, 75°F, Overlander Falls, Mount Robson Provincial Park – The first waterfall on the Fraser River was Overlander Falls. A trailhead was right along Hwy 16 just a mile or so before the Mount Robson Park visitor center. Lupe took a shady 10 minute trail from Hwy 16 down a series of switchbacks to the gorgeous waterfall.
Overlander Falls was only 30 feet high, but the Fraser River gushing through a narrow gap and dropping into a huge swirling pool of pale blue-green waters was an amazing sight. While relaxing by Overlander Falls, Lupe wound up making a new friend from Saskatchewan.
8-7-18, 3:16 PM, 78°F, Rearguard Falls Provincial Park – The second major waterfall along the Fraser River was only 10 miles from Overlander Falls. Rearguard Falls has its own provincial park! Once again, Lupe took a 10 or 15 minute trail from a trailhead right along Hwy 16 down to the waterfall.
Rearguard Falls wasn’t even as high as Overlander Falls, almost more of a giant rapids than a waterfall, but the breadth and strength of the water surging over it was also impressive. A sign up by the parking lot said Rearguard Falls was as far up the Fraser River as salmon were able to make it.
8-7-18, 5:06 PM, Goat River, British Columbia – After leaving Rearguard Falls, it hadn’t been much farther to the junction with Yellowhead South Hwy 5. Nearly all the traffic went that way, heading for Kamloops. Lupe and SPHP stayed on Yellowhead Hwy 16 going NW following the wide Fraser River valley.
The Fraser River was seldom in view, but this was now a most relaxing drive with virtually no traffic. Loopster was well past McBride, the only community of any significant size, when, after crossing a bridge, a short side road led down to a rest area and picnic ground by the Goat River. This was a beautiful spot Lupe had been to once before in 2016.
It wasn’t quite time to eat yet, but the Carolina Dog was happy making a brief exploration along the river.
The Goat River was a nice break, but the last one of the day. The long drive continued. Lupe went through Prince George (86°F!) and beyond, still on Yellowhead Hwy 16. The whole day, for hundreds of miles, had been smoky. If anything, the smoke was getting worse.
8-7-18, 8:43 PM, 67°F, Dry Williams Lake – Beyond Fort Fraser a pinkish-red sun sank into the murk. An eerie twilight developed. The smoke was bad. Nevertheless, time to call it a day. A rest area appeared a few miles farther on at Dry Williams Lake. This would do nicely! There were picnic tables, and a mowed area where the American Dingo could romp with a view of the lake.
Lupe had gone a long way today. The day’s highlights had all involved water in some form – a glacier, waterfalls, rivers and lakes. Smoke had increasingly spoiled the mountain views, but it couldn’t last forever, could it? After dinner (not fresh salmon unfortunately), the Carolina Dog curled up on her pile of pillows and blankets to snooze and dream of crystal blue skies tomorrow.
8-8-18, 6:45 AM, 54°F, Dry Williams Lake – The sun rose as it had sunk last night, oddly colored from a murky sea of smoke where a horizon should have been. Any dreams of crystal blue skies were apparently just that – dreams. The forest fires must not be terribly far away. The G6 was covered with a layer of ash. A short stroll around the rest area to let Lupe do some sniffing, then it was time to hit the road again.
Lupe had barely left Dry Williams Lake, when upon rounding a bend in the road, a patch of blue sky was visible to the N. The end of the smoke! Conditions improved steadily. Crystal blue skies weren’t a mere dream! It took an hour and a half to drive completely out of the smoke. By then it wasn’t much farther to Houston.
A stop in Houston is traditional, perhaps even mandatory. Lupe always visits Houston’s lovely Steelhead Park. Hwy 16 goes right past it. Loop wasn’t about to miss out on Steelhead Park on this crystal blue summer day, a dream come true!
Steelhead Park was a lovely break from the road. Lupe had a fun time sniffing among the brilliant flowers. Adventure was calling, though.
Lupe and SPHP left Steelhead Park at 9:45 AM. Less than 2 hours later, the Carolina Dog was standing on Babine Lake Road E of Smithers with her next big adventure in sight.
Links:
Next Adventure Prior Adventure
Overlander Falls, Rearguard Falls & Ancient Forest, British Columbia, Canada (8-2-17)
Wilcox Pass Trail, Jasper National Park (7-31-13)
Parker Ridge & the Saskatchewan Glacier, The Icefields Centre & the Athabasca Glacier (7-27-13)
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