Atigun Pass – Page 2 – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

The Alaskan North Slope Dingo – Deadhorse or Bust! (8-20-17)

Day 21 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

4:54 AM, 38°F, S bank of the Atigun River near the Dalton Highway bridge – Fog. Again. So what else was new? Despite fog, rain, and snow, Lupe had succeeded in climbing Lake Benchmark Mountain (5,000 ft.) yesterday. The day before that, she’d seen Galbraith lake and made it to the S edge of the North Slope beyond the Brooks Range, as far N as she had ever been in her life. So Loop had accomplished what had been planned here. Time to head S.

And yet the North Slope had been so enticing and mysterious! It would have been fun to go farther N, all the way to Deadhorse at the end of the Dalton Highway! Deadhorse was only a few miles from the Arctic Ocean and only another 140 miles or so from here. If there had been easy access to the ocean, Lupe would have gone for sure, despite the weather. An Arctic Ocean adventure, even a short one, would be so incredible! However, all along the coast and for several miles inland, energy companies maintain tight security. Although it was possible to take a paid tour from Deadhorse to the Arctic Ocean, SPHP already knew Dingoes weren’t allowed.

When Lupe had been in the Brooks Range last year, she had met several people who had gone all the way to Deadhorse, or were on their way there. Those who had already been there had reported seeing arctic foxes, snowy owls, caribou, and even musk oxen out on the North Slope. No one said anything favorable about Deadhorse, though. It was just an ugly industrial complex, not even a town, with nothing to do there.

No, without access to the Arctic Ocean for the Carolina Dog, and this foggy weather, it was hard to justify going any farther N. Lupe had lots more adventures planned elsewhere in Alaska. Best get on with it. SPHP fired up the G6, and Lupe was on her way S. The sky was completely overcast. Only a thin fog was present near ground level. Loop could see a mile or two to the base of the mountains. (5:15 AM)

Lupe along the Dalton Highway on her way S to Atigun Pass. Photo looks S.

The Atigun Pass area was darkly overcast. It was snowing, and the snow was beginning to stick. The mountains were white, where they could be seen through the fog. The Dalton Highway was slushy, but the G6 made it to the top of the pass. Lupe and SPHP got out to experience winter in August. (6:18 AM)

Loop at **Atigun Pass** in the **Brooks Range** for the second time in only a couple of days. This time she was heading S.

The weather was better S of Atigun Pass. Lupe stopped briefly at the Chandalar Shelf. The top of Table Mountain (6,314 ft.) was partly in view, and partly obscured by clouds. A fair amount of snow seemed to be present on what could be seen of the summit, but none existed below the final steep climb.

Heading down the S side of Atigun Pass. Photo looks SW.

The weather was somewhat better S of Atigun Pass. The sky wasn’t as darkly overcast and it wasn’t foggy out. Photo looks S while still on the way down from the pass.

Lupe still hadn’t climbed Table Mountain. Table Mountain was the only peak on her original list of objectives along the Dalton Highway for this Dingo Vacation that she hadn’t climbed yet. She was here plenty early in the day. Still, the weather looked pretty iffy. Not foggy, but still lots of clouds hanging around.

As much fun as Table Mountain might have been, after yesterday’s adventure in cold rain, snow, and fog up on Lake Benchmark Mountain, SPHP decided maybe Lupe would be smart to skip it. Conditions were marginal. The weather wouldn’t have to deteriorate much before Loop wouldn’t be able to see a thing up there, even if she did make it to the top. Sad, but true. Onward!

Beyond the Chandalar Shelf, down in the Dietrich River valley, the weather continued to improve. Lupe even saw patches of blue sky. It must have been somewhat sunny here over the past couple of days. The Dalton Highway was much drier now, a vast improvement. The G6 whizzed along at a lively 45 mph!

Lupe reached the Coldfoot visitor center at 9:00 AM. A sign said it was closed until 11:00 AM. Hmm. SPHP drove over to Coldfoot camp on the other side of the Dalton Highway. The American Dingo had to wait in the G6 while SPHP disappeared into the restaurant.

The wait was longer than Lupe expected. Coldfoot camp had a breakfast buffet going on. All you can eat for only $14.95, an absolute bargain way up here N of the Arctic Circle! SPHP ate an enormous breakfast – eggs, pancakes, muffins, sausage, bacon, ham, water, root beer, and coffee. It was great! More than hour after SPHP went in, Lupe got to enjoy a few pieces of smuggled out bacon.

SPHP gassed up the G6, another bargain at only $4.599 per gallon, and Loop was on her way again on the Dalton Highway.

Whoa, SPHP! Wrong way!

Nope! We’re fine, Loopster.

No, we’re not! You turned R, we’re going back N again!

Yeppers!

I thought we were going S. Aren’t we leaving the Arctic?

We were, but now we’re not.

Why not? Where are we going then?

It’s Deadhorse or bust, Loopster! I changed my mind. We can’t just leave! You’re going to go as far N as we can get. We’ve come all this way clear up to the Brooks Range two years running now. Just doesn’t feel right not to go all the way to the end of the Dalton Highway. We may never return. This may be our last chance. Whether we can see anything or not out on the North Slope, and whether or not you can get to the Arctic Ocean, we’re just going to do it.

Oh, exciting! I hope we see some caribou and musk ox on the North Slope! A polar bear would be totally awesome! Can I ask a favor, though?

Sure, what is it?

Since we’re going to go by it again, can we stop at the Dietrich River and go on my 2016 Last Mile North adventure by the Alaska oil pipeline again? I love that place!

Of course! That’s a great idea. We’ll do it, but maybe just to the stream N of Dillon Mountain instead of all the way to its confluence with the Dietrich River. I drove so far S before changing my mind that Deadhorse is a long way off now, and who knows what the road will be like N of the Brooks Range? I’m hoping we can still get to Deadhorse tonight.

Lupe did get to go on her 2016 Last Mile North adventure again! Even though she didn’t get to go all the way to the stream’s confluence with the Dietrich River, Loop had a blast! So easy, and so much fun!

Lupe at the stream that flows W from N of **Dillon Mountain (4,820 ft.)** (R). This was Lupe’s 3rd time now on her 2016 Last Mile North adventure, which has become a real favorite. Photo looks SE.

Then it was N again, on to the Chandalar Shelf. It was nearly 1:00 PM when Lupe arrived this time. Weather conditions hadn’t changed much since this morning. Once again SPHP deemed conditions too iffy, and now the hour too late, to seriously consider an ascent of Table Mountain.

Lupe returns to the **Chandalar Shelf**. She’s about 9 miles from Atigun Pass here. Photo looks ESE.

Looking S across the **Chandalar Shelf** toward **Table Mountain**. The top of the mountain is completely hidden in the clouds. SPHP again concluded conditions weren’t right for an ascent.

When Lupe went over Atigun Pass again, the weather was better than it had been early this morning. It was no longer snowing. The slushy snow on the Dalton Highway had melted. There were even patches of blue sky. The mountains were visible now, instead of cloaked with fog. They looked dramatic – all clean, cold and white.

Heading N again on the way to Atigun Pass from the Chandalar Shelf. Photo looks NE.

Lupe near the Dalton Highway N of Atigun Pass again.

The mountains of the **Brooks Range** looked clean, cold and white.

The better weather did not extend much beyond Atigun Pass. Soon the sky was totally overcast again. As Lupe followed the Atigun River N, the mountains were all hidden in clouds and fog.

Yesterday morning, Lupe had taken her Stroll to the North Slope Knoll, a short hike not far from milepost 278 of the Dalton Highway out onto the tundra. At the time, it had seemed likely to be as far N as Lupe was ever going to be in her whole life. Due to the current sudden change of plans, however, that was already no longer true. Still, the Stroll to the North Slope Knoll had been a fun experience. Why not repeat it before continuing N and setting a new record? Lupe was totally in favor of the idea. (2:33 PM, 41°F)

This time, SPHP went 500 feet beyond the endpoint of Lupe’s first Stroll to the North Slope Knoll. Lupe went even farther, racing 200 yards past SPHP out over the yellow tundra, sniffing and exploring as she went.

On her 2nd Stroll to the North Slope Knoll adventure, Lupe went even farther than she did yesterday morning. Photo looks NW.

The mood of Lupe’s second Stroll to the North Slope Knoll was entirely different. Instead of being the expected end of all her explorations N, this time it was merely a preliminary launching point. Lupe wasn’t going to have to turn around having seen only the very S end of the North Slope. From here, Lupe was going all the way to Deadhorse at the end of the Dalton Highway! Who knew what she might see along the way? It was all a grand mystery. A mystery about to be revealed.

This 2nd Stroll to the North Slope Knoll felt different. This time it was not the expected end of Lupe’s explorations N, but a launching point. This time it was Deadhorse or bust! An exciting new adventure was about to begin! Who knew what Lupe might see out on Alaska’s North Slope? It was all a mystery about to be revealed! Photo looks WNW.

When Lupe returned to the G6 at 3:20 PM, the adventures of the North Slope Dingo were about to begin in earnest. If the G6 was tough enough, only 136 more miles on the Dalton Highway would bring the American Dingo to its far N end at milepost 414 in Deadhorse. Though Lupe would never get to Alaska’s N coast due to security restrictions, the Carolina Dog would be only a few miles from the Arctic Ocean!

And so it began. Leaving the Stroll to the North Slope Knoll behind, Lupe and SPHP headed N on the Dalton Highway. The road was fine for a number of miles. Lupe soon saw Toolik Lake off to the W. The highway made a sharp turn to the E here.

The weather deteriorated. Mist and light rain. The Dalton Highway was full of mud puddles. The road went up and down over a series of hills. The most worrisome stretches were where the road was soft and muddy, but that wasn’t its most common condition. Far more often it was rough and washboardy, with long stretches of jarring potholes.

The G6 wasn’t built for this kind of abuse. The only defense against the rough road was to drive very slowly. That was OK. It didn’t actually matter how long it took the Carolina Dog to get to Deadhorse. The Dalton Highway went NE for a while before turning N again. A dozen miles from the Stroll to the North Slope Knoll, Lupe saw two seagulls!

4:14 PM, 110 to 115 miles from Deadhorse – The road has improved, no longer as rough and full of potholes as it had been going over the hills. To the W is a fairly high mountain, a lone one with its top lost in clouds and mist. It isn’t far from the Dalton Highway. If the weather was better, maybe Lupe could climb it? What can be seen of it certainly looks climbable. Remember this mountain for the return trip S!

Farther away off to the E and NE are lots more mountains, no doubt a continuation of the Brooks Range. However, there is no way to get over there. From the G6, Lupe has caught glimpses of a large river between the highway and those mountains to the E.

Lupe on the Dalton Highway 110-115 miles from Deadhorse. The rain and mist have finally let up, but it’s still a low ceiling day. Photo looks NE.

Oh, that looks like a fun, easy mountain to climb! No way to get over there, though. Lupe has caught glimpses of a large river between here and there from the G6. Photo looks SE.

4:40 PM, 105 miles from Deadhorse – Since leaving the Brooks Range, the Dalton Highway has only come to small streams. Up until now, that is. The large river Lupe caught glimpses of earlier is now only 300 to 600 feet E of the road. This must be the Sagavanirktok River. The Sag flows N all the way to Deadhorse, where it empties into the Beaufort Sea. It’s not yet a huge river. The Sagavanirktok is only slightly lower in elevation than the highway. The intervening ground appears quite swampy.

An industrial complex is on the W side of the highway, presumably some sort of pumping or maintenance station for the Alaska oil pipeline.

The **Sagavanirktok River** flows N near the Dalton Highway on its way to Deadhorse and the Beaufort Sea. Photo looks N.

Although most of the North Slope appeared to be as yet almost totally unspoiled, every so often Lupe came to industrial areas like this one. They were almost certainly somehow connected with maintenance or operation of the Alaska oil pipeline. Photo looks SW.

Looking back toward some of the foothills of the **Brooks Range**. Photo looks S.

5:05 PM – Lupe has a great view of the Sagavanirktok River, Alaska oil pipeline, and Dalton Highway from Oil Spill Hill. The road subsequently drops down into the river valley for several miles before climbing back out of it at Ice Cut.

Once the **Sagavanirktok River** gets close to the Dalton Highway, the river parallels the road the rest of the way to Deadhorse. However, it’s not always in view like this. Photo looks NE.

Although Lupe watched for wildlife along the **Sagavanirktok River** for a long time, she never saw anything other than birds. That was disappointing. A musk ox would have been really cool! Photo looks NE.

5:15 PM, 90 miles to Deadhorse – Now that the Dalton Highway is up out of the Sagavanirktok River valley N of Ice Cut, the river is out of sight. The North Slope is a golden rolling featureless land stretching as far as one can see to low hills on the horizon. Larger hills are off to the E beyond the Alaska oil pipeline, but the Brooks Range is no longer in view. To the W there is nothing except a distant tower on a gentle rise.

The North Slope Dingo seems to have lost hope of seeing any wildlife in this barren land. She’s taken to snoozing.

The **North Slope** about 90 miles from Deadhorse. Golden boreal tundra stretches to low hills on the horizon. A lone tower (L) sits atop a gentle rise. Photo looks WNW with help from the telephoto lens.

80 miles from Deadhorse – Widely scattered patches of sunlight appear on the yellow tundra. A few patches of blue sky exist. The clouds are low, but apparently not that thick.

The North Slope Dingo is awake again, but still has seen no animals. The reason is becoming increasingly clear. For many miles, pickup trucks have often been in view parked along the access roads to the Alaska oil pipeline, especially near the Sagavanirktok River. People are sometimes seen nearby. They often wear at least some orange. Hunters! No wonder whatever wildlife exists has fled beyond vision. Sad.

76 miles from Deadhorse – Pavement! The first pavement since S of the Atigun River 75 miles ago. A nice 6 or 7 mile stretch, then it’s back to mud and gravel.

6:00 PM, 45°F, 67 miles from Deadhorse – The Sagavanirktok River, which has only occasionally been visible from the Dalton Highway, now curves away to the NE flowing along the base of a line of low bluffs that has been in view for miles. The bluffs had been bathed in sunlight, but by the time the North Slope Dingo arrives for a photo, the light is past its best. Minutes later it is gone.

67 miles from Deadhorse, the **Sagavanirktok River** curves away to the NE flowing along the base of a line of low bluffs. Photo looks NE.

6:20 PM, 62 miles from Deadhorse – The North Slope Dingo stops at a rare pullout about 0.25 mile N of the top of a big, very gently sloping hill. The river is nowhere in sight here, but a faint rainbow is off to the NE. The boreal tundra is a yellow patchwork of sunlight and fog. As clouds and fog drift by, patterns of light and shadow move W to E across a golden land sliding away to the N. Overhead a patch of blue sky sails by.

No traffic at all lately. Even the hunters don’t seem to be out and about.

62 miles from Deadhorse, the North Slope Dingo spied this faint rainbow. Photo looks ENE.

The boreal tundra is a patchwork of sunlight and shadow as low clouds, fog, and bits of blue sky drift by. Photo looks NNE.

Same view with a little help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks NNE.

Almost immediately after leaving the faint rainbow and partially sunlit tundra behind, SPHP drives into rain and fog. A few minutes later, the Dalton Highway is paved again, but this time only for a couple of miles. Then it’s back to the usual mud and gravel. 4 or 5 miles later, a sign says road work next 51 miles, basically the rest of the way to Deadhorse. Get stopped by a flagman who says it’s a 20 minute wait.

The flagman has been working here every day since June 9th. $30/hr base pay and $45/hr overtime. Most days are 13 hours, and some are as many as 16. He has seen caribou, musk oxen, wolves, grizzly and polar bears, and lots of birds. Lupe will only have to follow the pilot car for 14 miles. The G6 is the only vehicle following the pilot car once it arrives. The pilot car races along the muddy road at 40 mph.

7:38 PM, 30 to 35 miles from Deadhorse – No traffic at all. The land is very flat. A 2 tiered bluff exists a mile to the E. To the W, nothing but a tiny hill in otherwise level terrain. 6 geese are flying S.

30 to 35 miles from Deadhorse the Dalton Highway is damp, but in good shape. The terrain is like a pancake. Photo looks N.

A mile E of the highway is a 2 tiered bluff. Photo looks ENE.

8:17 PM, 42°F, 15 to 17 miles from Deadhorse – Saw the sun’s position through a weak spot in the clouds about 15 minutes ago. The sun won’t set for another 2.5 hours yet. For the past 10 miles, the Dalton Highway has been on a roadbed raised 15 feet above the surrounding terrain. The terrain is even flatter than before. Most of it appears to be part of a vast swamp, with occasional stretches of open water.

The Sagavanirktok River was briefly in view again lurking near the base of the 2 tier bluff. That bluff ran for miles along the same course before coming to an end. A single tier bluff then picked up again a mile ENE of the highway close to where the 2 tier bluff faded away. It also runs for miles. The bluff is now several miles from the Dalton Highway, hidden by fog.

The sky is uniformly gray. Visibility is only a mile or two. Lupe saw a couple of small buttes off to the W looking like ghosts on the horizon. They didn’t amount to much.

15 to 17 miles from Deadhorse. The Dalton Highway is on a raised roadbed about 15 feet above the surrounding swampy terrain. A fairly large stretch of open water is seen beyond Loop. Photo looks NE.

The Dalton Highway remains on a raised roadbed like this the rest of the way to Deadhorse. The North Slope Dingo was now assured of getting there! Photo looks N.

8:54 PM – Success! It’s like a dream. The North Slope Dingo has made it to the outskirts of Deadhorse. The end of the Dalton Highway is only a couple of miles farther. Lupe is what, maybe 8 miles S of Prudhoe Bay?

Deadhorse is as others have described it to SPHP – an industrial complex almost exclusively dedicated to the energy industry. Nothing resembling a town is in sight. Not a single house or residential street. No business district catering to the public.

The closest thing to a retail business is Deadhorse Camp, which Loop finds near the start of Deadhorse on the L. It’s a hotel of sorts, catering mostly to oilfield workers who essentially live there, but also to members of the public who manage to make it to the end of the Dalton Highway. It’s also where it’s possible to arrange for a shuttle bus tour to the Arctic Ocean.

Success! The North Slope Dingo arrives on the outskirts of **Deadhorse**. As expected, everything in sight has an industrial look to it. No sign of any traditional town at all.

**Deadhorse** is 99% about the energy business and producing oil for the Alaska oil pipeline, which starts here.

One unexpected thing about **Deadhorse** and the energy industry it serves was how spread out it all was. Wide areas of swamp and tundra separate numerous far flung industrial installations.

Geese like to hang out around the Deadhorse Camp building.

Oh, yeah! Here’s proof that the North Slope Dingo made it all the way to **Deadhorse.** Lupe stands outside the Deadhorse Camp building, located on the L side of the Dalton Highway shortly after reaching Deadhorse. This is one of several “hotels” in Deadhorse. They all have a similar appearance. Some only accommodate oilfield workers.

Even though SPHP had been told on the phone before Lupe ever left home that Dingoes aren’t allowed to take the Arctic Ocean tour, SPHP was still planning on asking again for Lupe. Maybe it was still possible with enough in-person groveling or bribery?

The Arctic Ocean shuttle! That was what Loop wanted to take. If she was refused, she would have to send SPHP as her personal representative.

Now that the North Slope Dingo was in Deadhorse, SPHP wasn’t certain exactly what to do. Looking for a gas station seemed like a good place to start. From Deadhorse Camp, SPHP drove farther into Deadhorse. After a couple of bends, the Dalton Highway finally ended at a T intersection. SPHP took a left and eventually stumbled upon the Prudhoe Bay Hotel near the Alaska Airlines terminal at the Deadhorse Airport.

Unused drilling rigs stand lined up across a lake in Deadhorse.

Alaska Airlines seems to be the only airline serving the Deadhorse airport. The terminal was closed when Loop arrived on a Sunday night.

While Lupe remained in the G6, SPHP went into the Prudhoe Bay Hotel seeking information. Signs in the entryway commanded that everyone entering wear disposable boot covers to help keep the place clean. Free, bright blue slip-on boot covers were available from a box. SPHP put a pair on, then went on in.

Long well lit hallways led off in 3 directions. Not a soul was in sight. The front desk turned out to be some distance down the hall straight ahead from the entrance. A clerk gave SPHP a free map of Deadhorse on a single sheet of paper, and circled where the 2 gas stations are located. After thanking the clerk, SPHP wandered the hallways.

A large map of Alaska’s N coast was framed under glass on one wall. It showed the locations of numerous energy installations, and the names of a great many geographical features. Lots of history was provided on who first explored the Alaskan coast and named various islands, points, peninsulas, etc. The map was extraordinarily interesting. SPHP read much of it, which took a while. Meanwhile, absolutely no one came or went in the silent hall.

Light was fading when SPHP returned to Loop, still waiting patiently in the G6. It was starting to get foggy. One of the gas stations was close by. It was a small unmanned facility. SPHP couldn’t even figure out how to work it. Splendid. Oh, well. Can figure it out tomorrow.

Loop and SPHP drove around Deadhorse a bit. There weren’t many roads, yet it seemed like a maze. In growing darkness and gloomy fog, the whole place was sort of eerie. Almost no traffic at all. Now and then a pickup truck or semi truck appeared, then vanished. No one was out and about. Deadhorse was sort of a ghost town, but then it was late on a Sunday night and energy prices were depressed. Maybe like Skagway, Deadhorse would be busier Monday morning?

Lupe and SPHP drove past clusters of energy related service businesses. They were all dark, except for security lights. Widely scattered in the distance were more clusters of buildings, some quite brightly lit. No houses, no businesses of any kind other than energy related companies and a few boxy “hotels”. Weird, kind of creepy, but cool, too.

Returning to the Dalton Highway, SPHP drove back to within sight of Deadhorse Camp. Several pickup trucks with campers were parked at big pullouts overlooking the Sagavanirktok River. Even a few tents were pitched out on the gravel. Apparently it was OK to stay here. Perfect! This would do nicely. SPHP parked the G6. Tomorrow Loopster would explore Deadhorse. SPHP hoped the North Slope Dingo could even get permission to see the Arctic Ocean, but she probably wouldn’t.

Couldn’t hurt to try, though, could it?Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Beyond the Mountain of the Midnight Sun – Atigun Pass, Galbraith Lake & the Edge of the North Slope (8-18-17)

Day 19 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

6:02 AM, 37°F – The sky had been almost clear before sunset. SPHP expected to wake to blue skies. No such luck. Nothing but gray overhead. Lupe was famished. She gobbled down generous helpings of Alpo and Taste of the Wild before going back to sleep. The Carolina Dog was still exhausted after yesterday’s Cathedral Mountain (3,350 ft.) adventure. SPHP worked on the trip journal while rain showers came and went.

10:15 AM – Loop was awake again. Not raining now. Scattered patches of blue could even be seen. May as well hit the road. Lupe and SPHP left Cathedral Mountain heading N on the Dalton Highway.

As it turned out, Coldfoot (milepost 175) was only half a dozen miles away. SPHP gassed up the G6. Only $4.599 per gallon! Same as last year, and a bargain compared to the $5.50 per gallon they wanted back at the Yukon River. Be grateful for what you can get in the Arctic. Especially when they’re practically giving it away!

25 miles N of Coldfoot was a thrilling sight. Sukakpak Mountain was dead ahead! Lupe had climbed Sukakpak in 2016. As far as SPHP was concerned, Sukakpak Mountain (4,459 ft.) had been one of her most memorable adventures ever!

**Sukakpak Mountain** came into view 25 miles N of Coldfoot. The beautiful mountain was a thrilling sight! In 2016 Lupe had one of her most memorable adventures ever on Sukakpak. Photo looks NE.

A repeat of Lupe’s 2016 Sukakpak Mountain adventure would have been great fun, but the weather was just too iffy for that. Too little blue sky, and too many rain showers around. A huge effort that might easily wind up totally socked in and wet didn’t seem worth the risk.

Although Lupe and SPHP would have enjoyed a repeat of last year’s exploits up on **Sukakpak Mountain**, the weather seemed too iffy today. Too many rain showers around and not enough blue sky. Photo looks NE.

Lupe along the Middle Fork of the Koyukuk River with **Sukakpak Mountain** in the background. Photo looks SE.

However, there was an easy adventure near Sukakpak Mountain that Lupe and SPHP would both love to do again. This part of the Brooks Range was the farthest N Lupe had ever been. In 2016, Lupe had gone on her Last Mile North adventure. This involved only a relatively short walk along the Alaska oil pipeline to a creek N of Dillon Mountain (4,820 ft.), then W to its nearby confluence with the Dietrich River.

From that confluence, Lupe had seen a mysterious dark mountain 10 miles farther N. She had seen it the day before from the top of Sukakpak Mountain, too. Not knowing its real name, or if Lupe would ever in her whole life be this far N again, SPHP had named that dark mountain the Mountain of the Midnight Sun.

Both to commemorate last year’s achievement getting so far N in the Brooks Range, and to celebrate her return, Lupe was going to repeat her Last Mile North trek to see the Mountain of the Midnight Sun again. Upon return, Loop was then going to go farther N than she had ever been before, exploring new territory and shattering her old record.

It was raining again when SPHP parked the G6 at a pullout on the W side of the Dalton Highway right before the bridge over the Dietrich River shortly before noon. After a bite to eat, and finishing catching up the trip journal while Loop napped, the rain was over. Still overcast and cool, but conditions were fine for the Last Mile North trek. SPHP donned a jacket and the rain poncho, and Lupe was underway. (1:01 PM)

The morning’s inactivity and early afternoon nap had done Lupe a lot of good. She was ready for action again! She crossed the bridge over the Dietrich River continuing N to milepost 207 on the Dalton Highway. In 2016, a small pullout slightly N of this point was as far N as the G6 had made it. Milepost 207 was exactly halfway along the 414 mile trip on the Dalton Highway from Livengood to Deadhorse at Prudhoe Bay.

Lupe crosses the bridge over the **Dietrich River**. **Sukakpak Mountain** is on the R. Photo looks SSE.

Lupe visits milepost 207, the halfway point on the Dalton Highway. Milepost 207 is as far N as the G6 made it in 2016, and is just N of the Dietrich River. **Dillon Mountain** is in the background. Photo looks E.

Near milepost 207, Lupe took a short gravel access road W to the service road along the Alaska oil pipeline. Here, SPHP turned N following the service road.

Following the Alaska oil pipeline N was fabulous! For once, a nice level hike. Better yet, one surrounded by wonderful, remote mountains way up here in the unspoiled Brooks Range of N Alaska. It was an incredible feeling. And as much as SPHP liked this place, Lupe adored it. Her enthusiasm was boundless! The Carolina Dog ran, and ran, and ran.

Lupe repeating one of her easiest and favorite adventures of 2016, her Last Mile North trek along the Alaska oil pipeline W of Dillon Mountain. Photo looks NE.

Looper spent nearly all of her time out of sight in the bushes and forests just off the pipeline service road. She raced back and forth across the road as the mood struck her. Periodically she suddenly appeared a great distance away, and would streak back along the service road to check on SPHP’s progress. Her joy could be measured by the size of that huge pink tongue dangling from her open mouth.

Lupe on the oil pipeline service road coming back to check on SPHP. Photo looks N.

Looking back at **Sukakpak Mountain**. Photo looks S.

After following the Alaska oil pipeline a little more than a mile N, Lupe reached a creek flowing W from the region N of Dillon Mountain. A huge area gets washed out by this creek when water levels are much higher in late spring and early summer. Now the creek was quite low, and occupied only a small portion of its rocky riverbed.

Lupe reaches the wide rocky stream bed now only partially occupied by the stream flowing W from the region N of Dillon Mountain (R). Photo looks SE.

The sun had come out. Lupe must have been hot. She drank deeply from the clear, cold creek. She plunked herself right down in the water numerous times. The current was so strong some places that it swept her downstream. Looper didn’t seem to care. The water wasn’t deep. She could get out whenever she pleased.

*This Last Mile N adventure is just the best, isn’t it SPHP? I’m so glad we came back!* Photo looks E.

*Hey, SPHP! We could stay right here the rest of my Dingo Vacation and do this every day! Great idea, aye?*

Loopster cools off in one of the stream’s main channels. This stream flows W to the Dietrich River from N of Dillon Mountain. Photo looks NE.

*Oh, yeah! My case of hot paws is cured!*

Lupe and SPHP followed the creek downstream toward its confluence with the Dietrich River about 0.33 mile W of the Alaska oil pipeline. When the stream moved to its far S bank, SPHP was forced up into forest and stands of tall bushes. This slowed SPHP’s progress down a great deal. Meanwhile, Loopster returned to the forest to resume her free roaming adventures. SPHP had to call her back periodically so she didn’t wander too far away.

Approaching the confluence with the **Dietrich River** (coming in from the R). The mountain on the L is **Peak 4363**. Photo looks WNW.

Suddenly Lupe was there, back at the confluence of the Dietrich River and the clear stream she’d been following. This was the farthest N Lupe had ever been. A year and four days ago, she had been here. Off to the N, Lupe could see the Mountain of the Midnight Sun again. The top of the mountain was hidden by clouds.

Lupe in the clear stream she has been following W from the Alaska oil pipeline near its confluence with the much larger **Dietrich River**. The **Mountain of the Midnight Sun** is in the distance on the R. Photo looks N.

The top of the **Mountain of the Midnight Sun** (R) is hidden by clouds. It felt wonderful, natural, and strange all at the same time to be seeing this view again. Photo looks N.

Once again, a year and 4 days after the only other time she’d ever been here, Lupe stands at the confluence of the clear creek and the **Dietrich River**. The **Mountain of the Midnight Sun** (Center) is partially obscured by clouds. This was as far N as Lupe had ever been in her whole life. It was wonderful to be back! Photo looks N.

Being back here was an emotional experience. When Lupe had left this place last year, it was with a feeling that she would probably never ever be here to see this fabulous view and the mysterious Mountain of the Midnight Sun again, it was so far N and so far from home. Yet here she was, only a little over a year later. And Lupe had returned as the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood! Being here seemed both so familiar and so natural, yet at the same time strange and incredibly remote again. It was wonderful to be back!

This time was going to be different, though. The plan SPHP had eventually put together for Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation was that she would indeed return to the Yukon & Alaska. Lupe would come back here, to this very spot, but this time she would go even farther. Lupe was going to continue N beyond Atigun Pass, crossing the spine of the mighty Brooks Range. She was going to see Galbraith Lake beyond the end of the mountains, and climb Lake Benchmark Mountain (5,000 ft.) where she would have a tremendous view of the North Slope of Alaska.

Yes, Lupe was going to see that distant far N land beyond Alaska’s last mountain range! The Carolina Dog would get to see the North Slope’s vast empty boreal tundra extending beyond vision to the Arctic Ocean at the top of the world.

SPHP had learned something since Lupe had last been here. For many months after Lupe returned home from her 2016 Dingo Vacation, SPHP had purposely not looked at the topo maps to see if they showed a real name for the Mountain of the Midnight Sun. Finally though, SPHP did look. Yes, the maps did show a name. The Mountain of the Midnight Sun’s real name was Snowden Mountain (6,420 ft.).

The topo maps confirmed one other thing. SPHP had hoped Lupe might be able to climb the Mountain of the Midnight Sun if she ever returned, but feared that the mountain was probably too difficult. The topo maps concurred. It wasn’t likely SPHP would be able to climb such a rugged peak, which meant Lupe never would either. Still, Lupe could drop by for a look at the mountain today when she went by it heading N. A slim chance still existed an ascent might look feasible.

Lupe and SPHP lingered at the confluence of the Dietrich River and the clear stream a while. Loop relaxed on exposed riverbed next to the river, while SPHP pondered this place and this moment. For more than a year, this had been the farthest N Looper and SPHP had ever been. For more than a year, it had been a dream, at first only faintly held, to come back some day. Now, after today, this hike and this confluence would no longer be Lupe’s last mile N. However, it would forever be a special place. The Carolina Dog and SPHP both loved being here.

Lupe relaxes on exposed riverbed next to the **Dietrich River** with **Sukakpak Mountain** in the distance. Photo looks S.

The long dreamed of moment passed. Lupe was ready. Time for action! New adventures, glorious ones, were ahead! First things first, though. The American Dingo was eager to relive all the great fun of coming here on the way back to the G6 again.

The forest rang with the shrill, excited barking of the Happiest Dingo on earth. Lupe sped through the forests following whatever secret paths her nose led her to. She didn’t waste a single minute. It was another grand time for both Loop and SPHP, and like all grand times, over too soon. There seemed to be little doubt that Lupe would have rated the past two hours the very best of her entire Dingo Vacation so far.

*Oh, yeah! I got to enjoy this bliss all over again. Am I the luckiest Dingo on earth, or what?* **Sukakpak Mountain** dead ahead. Photo looks S.

Back at the **Dietrich River** again with only the bridge to cross to get back to the G6. **Sukakpak Mountain** in the background. Photo looks S.

**Sukakpak Mountain** in the **Brooks Range** from the **Dietrich River**. Photo looks S.

The sun was out. The temperature had soared to 66°F by the time Lupe reached the G6. (3:06 PM) This was a rare opportunity to dry some things out on the roof. Lupe rested in the shade, listening to the rippling Dietrich River with a beautiful view of Dillon Mountain (4,820 ft.), still the northernmost mountain Lupe had ever climbed.

While wet stuff dried on the roof of the G6, Lupe rested nearby in the shade listening to the **Dietrich River** with a view of **Dillon Mountain**, still the northernmost mountain she had ever climbed. Photo looks E.

Rain showers were visible not too far away the whole time. The sunny half hour ended as clouds returned. At least some things had dried off. SPHP took everything off the roof of the G6 and put it all away. It was time. (3:45 PM, 59°F)

Come on, Loopster! Our time’s up here.

Oh, are we really going N now? Farther than ever before?

Yes ma’am. The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood is going to see some territory she’s never seen before. With a title like that, it’s almost an obligation for you to explore more of the Arctic, you know.

Are we going to climb the Mountain of the Midnight Sun?

We’ll see. Probably not. Don’t think it’s anything we can do, but we’ll stop and take a look just in case. It’s not that far away from here. At least you will get to see your Mountain of the Midnight Sun up close.

And then what?

Well, we’ll have a beautiful drive through the Brooks Range along the Dietrich River valley. Eventually we’ll get to another mountain Richard Carey wrote a trip report about on Peakbagger.com. He hasn’t steered us wrong yet. I’m hoping you’ll be able to climb it.

What mountain is that, SPHP?

Table Mountain. We should be able to see it from the Chandalar Shelf.

Table Mountain? Sounds kind of boring. Plenty of Table Mountains, but there’s never a Chair Mountain, is there? Chandalar Shelf sounds sort of exotic, though. I like it here, but I suppose you’re right, as Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood, I ought to explore more of the Arctic. It would be hard to explain to the rest of the sisters, if I didn’t.

Clever, Loop, but actually you have climbed a chair mountain. Remember Kings Throne Peak near Kathleen Lake back in the Yukon? A throne is a fancy chair.

Oh, I never thought of that, SPHP.

The Dalton Highway’s beautiful pavement ended even before Lupe reached milepost 210 a couple miles N of Dillon Mountain. That was a shame. The highway was now mud, gravel, and potholes. Only a few miles farther, as Lupe was nearing the Mountain of the Midnight Sun, SPHP saw an impressive view of Dillon Mountain in the rear view mirror. It was worth a quick stop.

Lupe near milepost 213. Her **Mountain of the Midnight Sun** (R) is only a few miles away now. Unfortunately, the Dalton Highway has already reverted to mud and gravel. Photo looks NNW.

An impressive view of **Dillon Mountain** from milepost 213 of the Dalton Highway. Photo looks SSE.

Lupe reached the Mountain of the Midnight Sun at milepost 216. A glance told the story. It was a great mountain, but SPHP wasn’t prepared to tackle anything like that. Despite the mountain having been a dream goal for over a year, Loop and SPHP paused only briefly before continuing on.

The summit of the **Mountain of the Midnight Sun** is hidden in the clouds somewhere to the R, perhaps off the edge of this photo. SPHP could tell at a glance that this just wasn’t happening for Lupe. Disappointing, but not unexpected. Photo looks NE.

The drive up the Dietrich River valley was as beautiful as SPHP had promised it would be. The Dalton Highway eventually left the river, climbing fairly steeply up the side of a ridge. Near the top, the road curved to the R. A broad plain flanked by mountains came into view ahead. SPHP parked the G6 at a large pullout on the R (milepost 237). Lupe had reached the Chandalar Shelf.

Clouds prevailed over most of the sky, but Lupe stood in weak sunshine when she got out of the G6 for a look. (6:00 PM) The Chandalar Shelf was gorgeous! A treeless tundra of colorful low bushes stretched away for miles. The flanking mountains were dark beneath the clouds, but weren’t rough or particularly high.

Loopster arrives at the **Chandalar Shelf**. Photo looks E.

Table Mountain (6,314 ft.) was in view more than 4 miles S of the pullout. Though the summit was partially obscured by clouds, and looked like it might have a dusting of new snow on it, SPHP was excited to see that Table Mountain looked like an eminently climbable peak for Lupe!

It was much too late, and weather conditions weren’t right anyway, to consider an ascent today. If she stuck around, Lupe could climb Table Mountain tomorrow, though, if the weather would cooperate. If Loop stayed here overnight, she could get an early start in the morning.

Beyond the **Chandalar Shelf**, the summit of **Table Mountain** (R of Center) is partially obscured by clouds. SPHP could see enough to tell that Lupe ought to be able to climb **Table Mountain** easily enough, if the weather would cooperate. Photo looks S.

Lupe was interested in making a brief foray out onto the Chandalar Shelf. It seemed like a good idea. Loop and SPHP quickly learned that the ground was soggier than expected. When the time came, the best route to Table Mountain across the Chandalar Shelf would likely be on the highest terrain possible. Fortunately, this was pretty much the most direct line to the mountain, anyway.

Lupe makes a brief foray out onto the **Chandalar Shelf**. Photo looks E.

Lupe discovered this faint set of vehicle tracks heading straight for **Table Mountain**. When the time came to climb the mountain, she intended to start out for it this way. Photo looks S.

Perhaps Lupe and SPHP should have stayed at the Chandalar Shelf overnight. Then Lupe might have climbed Table Mountain the next day, but the prospect of seeing new territory made continuing on exciting and attractive. The Arctic stays light a long time, even in mid-August. Lupe had hours of daylight left. Besides, she would eventually have to return this way. She could climb Table Mountain then.

Looking back at **Table Mountain** (L) as Lupe continues N on the Dalton Highway. Photo looks SSW.

Lupe was only a few miles beyond the Chandalar Shelf when it became apparent that the Dalton Highway would soon start climbing to Atigun Pass (4,739 ft.). The road was wet, soft, and slick, and the tops of the mountains here were definitely sporting new snow. What would the road be like? Could the G6 even make it to Atigun Pass?

Lupe on the Dalton Highway only a few miles N of the Chandalar Shelf. The highway would soon start its ascent of Atigun Pass. Photo looks NNE.

The Dalton Highway starts up to Atigun Pass ahead on the R. Photo looks NNW.

18th of August, and the mountaintops were sporting a dusting of new snow. Photo looks NW with help from the telephoto lens.

The climb up to Atigun Pass initially seemed daunting. The road was steep, wet and slick. A light rain was falling, and the possibility of snow on the road ahead was worrisome. However, the G6 was doing fine.

The Dalton Highway climbs to the R toward Atigun Pass. Doesn’t look scary from here. Photo looks NNW.

Lupe stands on the Dalton Highway partway up to Atigun Pass. So far, so good. Photo looks NE.

Looking back down. The G6 was doing fine despite the wet road. Photo looks SW.

The top of Atigun Pass (milepost 245) was only 2.5 miles from the big curve where the Dalton Highway began gaining elevation in earnest. Despite initial trepidation, the ascent had gone quickly and smoothly. The pass was 38°F when Lupe arrived. There was a huge pullout on the E side of the highway. Sadly, and rather surprisingly, Loop found no commemorative sign of any kind.

Lupe arrives at **Atigun Pass** for her first time ever to find 38°F weather on August 18th, light rain, a huge wet pullout, and no commemorative Atigun Pass sign of any kind.

Atigun Pass (4,739 ft.) is the high point of the Dalton Highway, and on the continental divide along the spine of the Brooks Range. S of the pass, water drains W to the Bering Sea, part of the North Pacific Ocean. N of the pass, water flows N to the Arctic Ocean.

As geographically significant as Atigun Pass might be, it didn’t take a Carolina Dog long to conclude her inspection of cloudy mountains, cool damp weather, and a muddy parking lot. After a few minutes, Loop was ready to go see whatever was N of the pass.

The drive down the N side of the Brooks Range was fascinating! For a couple of miles, the Dalton Highway seemed steeper here than it had been S of Atigun Pass. The road wound around making big curves along the sides of the mountains. Up high, a heavy mist was coming down. Fog drifted among mountains capped with new snow, most summits hidden in the clouds.

SPHP drove slowly so Lupe could take it all in. The American Dingo stopped a couple of times on the way down, too, just to better appreciate being N of Atigun Pass for the first time ever.

Lupe on a little side road just off the Dalton Highway. Wow! Here she was, N of Atigun Pass in the **Brooks Range**!

Though it would have been fun to see these mountains in bright sunshine, the chill mist and fog only added to the sense of mystery and remote solitude.

Looking up at the new snow on the mountaintops, SPHP was struck by the notion that maybe Lupe shouldn’t stay too long N of Atigun Pass. It wouldn’t take much of a snowstorm to make the Dalton Highway impassable to the G6, and apparently it was already autumn here in mid-August!

After a couple of miles of steep, wide turns, Lupe could see she was now down close to where the road’s grade was about to moderate. The Dalton Highway was heading into a long valley. Small streams by the road were some of the headwaters of the Atigun River beginning a long journey to the Arctic Ocean.

A couple miles from Atigun Pass, the Dalton Highway headed for a long valley. Creeks near the road were the beginnings of the **Atigun River**. Photo looks N.

The Dalton Highway began straightening out. It made gentle curves along lower slopes of the mountains following the newly forming Atigun River down the valley. A dozen miles from Atigun Pass, a major tributary came in from a big valley to the SW. The Atigun River was already getting big, and the valley was widening out.

Lower down, the Dalton Highway started leveling out making long gentle curves along the base of the mountains as it followed headwaters of the Atigun River downstream. Lupe was beyond the rain and mist she’d experienced at Atigun Pass. Photo looks N.

The Atigun River was much larger and the valley widened out after a major tributary of the river joined in from a big valley to the SW. Lupe stands in sunshine within sight of a few encouraging patches of blue sky in the widened valley. Photo looks N.

Not a tree grew anywhere. Tall bushes were uncommon, though plenty of low ones grew. The Atigun River valley was a starkly beautiful boreal tundra flanked by some of the northernmost mountains in Alaska.

Before too long, it began to look like the Dalton Highway would soon be approaching the end of the Brooks Range. SPHP didn’t realize it yet, but Loopster could already see Lake Benchmark Mountain (5,000 ft.), the mountain she would try to climb tomorrow hoping for a glorious view of Alaska’s vast North Slope.

The Dalton Highway is starting to approach the N end of the **Brooks Range** here. SPHP didn’t realize it yet, but **Lake Benchmark Mountain** (far L in the distance), which Lupe hoped to climb tomorrow, is already in sight. Photo looks N.

Where the Atigun River came closer to the Dalton Highway, SPHP parked the G6. Being here was a dream come true! Time to get out and enjoy! Loop happily explored the tundra, while SPHP walked over to the river.

Lupe stopped here where the **Atigun River** flows close to the Dalton Highway. Alaska’s North Slope starts beyond the mountains seen in the distance. Photo looks N.

Lupe visits the fabled **Atigun River** in the northern **Brooks Range**. Photo looks N.

*The **Atigun River** really is beautiful, SPHP! However, I have a feeling I won’t be barking at any squirrels around here. I haven’t seen a single tree since before we reached Atigun Pass!* Photo looks N.

Hi, there! This is Lupe, the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood reporting in from the E bank of the **Atigun River** on the **N side of the Brooks Range**, just in case any of you other Arctic sisters are thinking of coming up here and would like to know what to expect. Photo looks SSW.

Lupe enjoyed a short romp near the Atigun River, but she was getting very close to being as far N as SPHP had planned for her big 2017 Dingo Vacation. She would soon be close to Lake Benchmark Mountain and Galbraith Lake where her journey N would end. In fact, a dark cluster of peaks up ahead must be where Lake Benchmark Mountain was!

It was exciting being here, nearing a new even more northerly last mile N record for Lupe. What would she see there? Lupe and SPHP returned to the G6 to keep going. Soon a gap appeared in the mountains ahead. Beyond the gap was a distant flat land. The North Slope! That was where it began!

Only a little farther on, this gap appeared in the mountains ahead. Beyond the gap, Lupe could see the beginning of the **North Slope** (Center)! Photo looks NW.

SPHP was certain that the highest ridge R of Center in this cluster of dark mountains was **Lake Benchmark Mountain**, the peak at the **N end of the Brooks Range** that Lupe had come all this way to climb! However, Lupe later discovered SPHP was in error. (Hardly a first!) Photo looks N with help from the telephoto lens.

Mountains W of the Dalton Highway beyond the Atigun River. Photo looks W.

A look back to the SSW. The **Atigun River valley** is on the L.

The Atigun River did not flow N through the gap Lupe had seen directly out onto the North Slope. Instead, shortly before reaching the gap, the river turned E entering a narrow valley between high mountains. Near this E bend, the Dalton Highway crossed a bridge over the Atigun River, leaving it behind and continuing N toward the gap.

The highway was going uphill now, bordered on one side by the Alaska oil pipeline and a high ridge Lupe would climb tomorrow on her way to Lake Benchmark Mountain somewhere to the E. On the W side of the highway, Lupe ought to be seeing Galbraith Lake any moment now. Sure enough, Galbraith Lake quickly came into view.

The Dalton Highway continues N after crossing a bridge over the Atigun River where the river turns E. The Alaska oil pipeline parallels the highway below the last mountains of the Brooks Range. Photo looks N.

A couple miles N of where the Dalton Highway crossed a bridge over the Atigun River, Lupe reaches a view of **Galbraith Lake**. Only the S end of the large lake is seen here. Photo looks SW.

Galbraith Lake lies at the base of the N side of the Brooks Range. The S end of the lake is in a wide plain near high mountains, but the N end of Galbraith Lake extends out into the beginning of the North Slope. Lupe could see the entire lake from the Dalton Highway. She was now about as far N as SPHP had planned for her to go – at the end of her northern explorations.

Lupe stands on the Dalton Highway with a view of the **N end of Galbraith Lake**. This was about as far N as SPHP had planned for her to go. Photo looks W.

Standing there on the Dalton Highway, with glistening Galbraith Lake in full view beneath a gray sky, SPHP was seized with the notion that Lupe ought to go farther. Yes, Loop could see the beginning of the North Slope at the N end of Galbraith Lake from here, but the sky was lighter over that way, and the Dalton Highway was still going up as it continued N.

Maybe by going a few miles farther, Lupe could get to some higher point where the light would be better, and she could see much more of the North Slope? It seemed worth a shot. It was late in the day. Lupe and SPHP had nothing better to do before sunset.

It was a good decision. As SPHP drove N, the light did improve, and so did the views of the North Slope. The Dalton Highway reached the top of the hill it had been climbing. SPHP continued driving N over a couple minor rises looking for a place to park the G6. Several miles beyond the last hills of the Brooks Range, a wide side road appeared on the W side of the Dalton Highway near milepost 236 or 237. Yes!

Loopster, Loopster, come on! Hurry! This is it! What you’ve come so far to see! We’re in the nick of time!

Lupe was almost alarmed by SPHP’s excited, wild behavior, but being a bold American Dingo, leapt out of the G6 ready for anything.

It was raining. And sunny. Gentle rolling fields of gold extended N as far as Lupe could see toward big hills bordering on small mountains on the horizon. To the W a line of much higher mountains marked the N edge of the lonely, remote Brooks Range. To the SE, a last ridge stood high and dark in a shadowy gloom. In sunlight, before this forbidding ridge, extending down to the golden boreal tundra, glowed a double rainbow.

Gentle golden slopes extended as far as Lupe could see to high hills and small mountains on the horizon. Photo looks N.

And sunny. Remote peaks along the N edge of the Brooks range appear miles beyond the North Slope’s billowing sea of gold. Photo looks WSW.

Loop in dazzling sunlight at the end of the rainbow on Alaska’s North Slope.

It was an amazing moment, so full of joy! This was it! This was the unbelievable North Slope even better than any dream. Lupe had arrived when the whole world appeared as a boundless treasure. The North Slope’s limitless tundra was a promised golden land at the end of the rainbow.

Such magical moments can’t last. They flit away, never to return, like carefree butterflies blown far and wide, lost wherever soft breezes take them. The rainbow, the dazzling sunlight, the glistening raindrops would all quickly fade or pass by. Yet for a few wonderful fleeting moments, it was all so very real, as real as anything ever was.

On the Dalton Highway in the promised land of Alaska’s North Slope. Photo looks E.

Sweet Loop near the end of the rainbow. Photo looks SSE.

Chasing rainbows, Lupe got cold and wet. She was tired and hungry. SPHP turned the G6 to face the sunset. Alpo for Lupe, then her warm blankie. At evening’s end, a pale sun sank into a bank of gray clouds. No colors, no beauty, simply gone. The vast gray tundra stretched away to infinity. Lupe snoozed as SPHP watched the North Slope fade away. (10:30 PM, 41°F)