Absaroka Range – Page 2 – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

On & Off the Reef Creek Trail to Windy Mountain, Absaroka Range, Wyoming (6-28-21)

Days 6 & 7 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2021 Dingo Vacation to Wyoming!

6-27-21, 9:20 AM, at a pullout along Chief Joseph Scenic Highway No. 296 –

Is that Windy Mountain (10,262 ft.)?

SPHP consulted the topo map.

No, can’t be. It’s too close to the highway, Loop. Don’t think we can see Windy Mountain from here. Probably Peak 9352. Those must be the Cathedral Cliffs below it. Keep an eye out for the Reef Creek Picnic Area when we hit the highway again. Can’t be much farther.

**Peak 9352** (Center) and the **Cathedral Cliffs** (R) from Chief Joseph Scenic Highway. Photo looks SW.

That was for sure. The RAV4 had barely gotten back onto the highway when a sign appeared on the L (S) side of the road.

There it is, SPHP! Reef Creek Picnic Area!

SPHP pulled into a paved semicircular drive. Lupe hopped out for a look around. The Reef Creek Picnic Area was small. Several picnic tables tucked back in among the trees and a restroom seemed to be about it.

At the Reef Creek Picnic Area. Photo looks NW.

Hmm. Supposed to be a trail here, Looper. See if you can find it. Might not be used much, since this is the long way to Windy Mountain.

Are you sure the trail still exists, SPHP?

No, not at all. Just hoping it does.

A search commenced. No luck, at first, but then there it was! 100 feet from the parking lot, well beyond a picnic table toward the SW, a big tree bore a small new sign. All it said was “Trail”. Next to the tree, a faint path disappeared into the forest.

This must be it, Loop! Reef Creek Trail No. 605!

And that was that. Reconnaissance complete! After two big climbs in two days, the American Dingo had the rest of the day off. Fortuitously, a favorite spot along the Clarks Fork of the Yellowstone River just off Beartooth Highway No. 212 was only a 30 minute drive away. Lupe passed the rest of the day peacefully along the gorgeous river with its stunning view of Pilot Peak (11,699 ft.) and Index Peak (11,240 ft.).

Wading in the **Clarks Fork of the Yellowstone River**. Photo looks NW.

The pullout along Beartooth Hwy No. 212. **Mount Jim Smith** **(10,312 ft.)** (L of Center). Photo looks S.

**Pilot Peak** (Center) and Index Peak (R). Photo looks NW.

Diligently preparing for Windy Mountain tomorrow.

6-28-21, 7:55 AM, Reef Creek Picnic Area – All rested up, the Carolina Dog once again stood by the big tree with the “Trail” sign at the start of Reef Creek Trail No. 605. As soon as SPHP was ready, she set out. The trail climbed steadily, winding up a fairly aggressive forested slope devoid of any distant views. The good news was that although this route appeared infrequently traveled, the trail was surprisingly easy to follow.

At the start of Reef Creek Trail No. 605.

20 minutes brought Lupe to a broad bench of more open forest where the trail leveled out. For a little way, the trail ran ENE along the flat ground before gradually turning SE and beginning to climb again.

Up on the broad, flat bench. Photo looks ENE.

Half an hour and the rate of climb diminished. Lupe came to a clearing providing first views of the surrounding territory. She’d already made a lot of progress, gaining close to 800 feet of elevation. Of course, she still had a very long way to go, but so far everything was going as expected. To the SW, Looper could now see the big ridge SE of HP8580. No. 605 would take her around that ridge.

First views after a considerable climb. Photo looks NE.

Initial glimpse of **HP8580** (Center). Photo looks SW.

Soon Reef Creek could be heard, although not seen, in a valley to the E. Lupe came to a large, flat meadow. Looked like super easy terrain, but the American Dingo had barely started across it, when the bright green meadow proved to be soft and wet. No. 605 vanished in a mucky marsh.

At the start of what proved to be a marsh. Reef Creek Trail No. 605 was last seen heading straight into it. **Russell Peak (9,186 ft.)** (L). Photo looks SE.

Not anxious to slog through the muck, SPHP looked around. Nearby, an open lane wide enough to be a road headed WSW through the forest. Maybe the trail actually went that way for a bit? Lupe followed the dry lane, but when it didn’t turn back to the SE within a few minutes, SPHP realized this route had to be a mistake.

Abandoning the lane, Lupe turned SE, roaming higher through a region of scattered pines that led to another meadow that eventually proved to be even boggier. The American Dingo got as far as a small stream that ran through the bog, but did not cross it. Instead, Looper followed the stream SW straight up the slope, all the way to a spring gushing out of the mountain amid a luxuriant display of bluebells.

Standing in the tiny stream that ran through the upper marsh. Photo looks SW.

Near the bluebells where the spring gushed out of the mountain. Photo looks SSE.

On the way up to the spring, it looked like Loopster had gained so much elevation that she ought to be able to simply climb up and over the ridge SE of HP8580 without too much trouble. If successful, this would be a shortcut, eventually allowing her to return to Reef Creek Trail No. 605 down in the valley on the far side of the ridge.

Encouraged by SPHP, Lupe started up the steep slope above the spring, but the climb quickly turned into a tough slog. This region had burned some years ago. Young trees crowded a jumble of deadfall. Naturally, the slope continued much farther than it had appeared from below.

*Ya know, SPHP! Maybe we should have just slogged through a little muck and found the trail!*

The rate of climb finally began to diminish. Once past the burnt area, most of the deadfall vanished. The worst was over. Passing through a beautiful mature forest, Lupe reached the crest of the ridge and crossed over. On the other side, she came to a clearing full of wildflowers with a view of the Reef Creek valley ahead.

Past the deadfall, getting close to the top of the ridge. Photo looks SSW.

**Reef Creek valley** from the **ridge SE of HP8580**. Photo looks SW.

During a rest break among the flowers, SPHP made a terrible discovery.

Loopster! I’ve lost our map! I don’t have it on me!

Think, SPHP! When was the last time you definitely did have it?

Above the spring, back at a huge standing dead tree we stopped at for a quick breather. I remember looking at it.

Maybe you left the map there, then? That tree shouldn’t be hard to find. Want to go back?

Eh! I don’t know. Hate to go all that way. The map might have fallen out of my pocket somewhere else. Can probably make do without it. I looked at it quite a few times on the way up, and the route isn’t that tricky.

Really? Are you sure that’s wise, SPHP?

Wise? Maybe not, but I suspect we’ll be fine. All we have to do is get back to Trail No. 605 down in the valley ahead of us, and follow it to No. 604, which comes up from Sunlight Basin. No. 604 will get us the rest of the way to the summit. Trails all the way! What could go wrong?

That did sound simple enough, but once the break at the wildflower clearing was over, SPHP proposed a new plan. Traveling some distance up the Reef Creek valley, No. 605 would eventually head up onto this same long ridge that HP8580 was part of. Why lose 200 feet of elevation going down into the valley when Lupe could simply follow the ridge?

Expressing no reservations over this change, the cooperative Carolina Dog struck out heading W along a game trail. Only minor elevation loss was incurred as Lupe traversed the forested slope S of HP8580, putting her into position for a short climb to the saddle between it and HP8462.

**SW of HP8580** heading for the **saddle** (L) leading to **HP8462**. Photo looks WNW.

Upon reaching the saddle, HP8462, most of which had burned, was in sight immediately to the SW. HP8462 consisted of two hills each capped by a layer of white rock. Lupe climbed to the top of the lower hill, but SPHP feared she might cliff out on the far side if she went all the way to the top of the higher one. Instead, she attempted the same trick used at HP8580, trying to traverse the slope immediately E of the summit.

This time the traverse didn’t work as well. Lupe wound up on a very steep slope just below the summit’s capstone. SPHP’s progress was slow on the loose rock. Worse yet, it soon became apparent that once beyond HP8462 Loop faced a substantial drop to the next saddle along the ridge followed by a big climb up to HP8706.

On the very steep slope just **E of HP8462‘s capstone** (R). Photo looks SW.

Took a while to get down to the next saddle. By then, SPHP had had a change of heart.

This business of trying to stay up on the ridge isn’t working out Looper. Too much up and down along the way. Never should have tried it. I hereby christen HP8462 “Dum-dum Point”!

I knew you’d figure it out sooner or later, SPHP! Ready to head down into the Reef Creek valley to pick up the trail before we waste any more time losing and regaining the same old elevation over and over again?

Absolutely, let’s do it!

Beyond **HP8462** starting down into the valley. **Windy Mountain** (Center). Photo looks SSW.

Instead of losing a mere 200 feet like she could have earlier on, Lupe lost more like 340 feet of elevation from Dum-dum Point on the way down into the Reef Creek valley. Close to the bottom was a huge field full of purplish pink wildflowers. Trail No. 605 did not pass through this field, but Lupe ran into it 100 feet after entering the forest at the lower end.

Crossing the huge field leading down to the **Reef Creek valley**. Photo looks S.

Glancing back at **Dum-dum Point** (**HP8462**) (Center). **HP8580** (R). Photo looks N.

Finally back on Reef Creek Trail No. 605 again! Photo looks SW.

All that wandering around traversing slopes and trying to stay up on the ridge had been a time and energy-consuming waste, but once back on Trail No. 605 everything seemed fantabulous again. The only thing Lupe had to do now was stick with the trail the rest of the way.

SPHP remembered from the topo map that No. 605 would eventually split off to the R from a route that continued farther up the Reef Creek valley. Make that turn, and Loopster was as good as up on Windy Mountain!

No. 605 was level where the Carolina Dog reached it, but soon started gaining elevation as she followed it up the valley. Except for occasional small meadows where the trail tended to fade, this whole region was forested. SPHP watched for the turn where No. 605 took off to start its climb out of the valley. Progress was good, but the trail went on and on, and the intersection did not appear.

After 40 minutes, the trail reached Reef Creek at a point where a fallen log created a small waterfall. Lupe cooled her paws down and helped herself to a drink.

**Reef Creek** where Trail No. 605 first reached it.

The trail followed the NW side of the creek for a while, before crossing it at a non-obvious point. However, this crossing was soon figured out. Lupe doubled back to it when the trail vanished. After leaping over to the SE side, Loop entered a long meadow where the trail faded away. She found it again at the far end shortly before the trail crossed back over to the NW bank.

On the NW bank (wrong side!) just past the first creek crossing. Photo looks SW.

By now, SPHP realized that the junction where No. 605 left the valley to climb up onto the huge ridge to the W must have been missed. However, the pass at the upper end of the valley was now sometimes seen ahead. No. 605 was supposed cross that saddle as the big ridge swept around to the E toward Windy Mountain. Figuring Looper might as well attempt to intercept No. 605 at the pass, SPHP encouraged her to keep following Reef Creek toward it.

She did, but the trail began to fade. The valley gradually narrowed, and Reef Creek became a trickle. Lupe started coming to deep snow drifts among a dense pine forest. The drifts hid what remained of the trail. They held the Dingo’s weight, but not SPHP’s. The pass wasn’t all that much farther, but getting to it was going to take forever and a day.

Continuing up **Reef Creek.** Photo looks SSW.

On the snowdrifts at the end of the valley trek. Photo looks SSW.

Peering through open forest up a steep slope on the E side of the valley, a big grassy clearing could be seen about 100 feet higher. It looked equally steep, but if Lupe could get up there, maybe she could eventually get to Windy Mountain that way? Worth a shot.

SPHP stopped repeatedly to gasp for air. At times the slope seemed on the verge of becoming almost scary steep, but Lupe managed to reach the grassy clearing. High above, at the upper end, was a standing white forest of dead trees, with new growth visible among the skeletons.

As Lupe continued higher, views of the Reef Creek valley and the ridge to the W where Trail No. 605 ought to be improved rapidly. After a while, she could see over the lower part of the ridge.

Far to the N, snow-capped peaks along the spine of the Beartooths were visible. Sky Pilot Mountain (12,047 ft.), which the American Dingo had climbed in 2020 after failing to get to Castle Mountain (12,612 ft.) with mountaineering friend Jobe Wymore, was in sight!

On the grassy slope. **Trail No. 605 ridge** (L). **Peak 9532** (Center). Photo looks N.

On the horizon: **Snowbank Mountain (12,084 ft.)** (far L), **Salo Mountain (12,250 ft.)** (L), **Castle Rock Mountain (12,401 ft.) & Castle Rock Spire (12,450 ft.)** (Center), **Castle Mountain (12,612 ft.)** (R of Center) and **Sky Pilot Mountain (12,047 ft.)** (R). **Beartooth Butte (10,514 ft.)** (R) in the foreground. Photo looks N with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

By the time Lupe reached the both dead and new growth forest, the slope wasn’t quite as steep. SPHP’s rate of ascent improved slightly, as Lupe roamed among the trees. Off to the R (SW) was another steep slope featuring a long snowbank. To the NW was a view of an intriguing peak that must have been Hurricane Mesa (11,064 ft.).

The next ridge or slope to the SW with its long snowbank. Photo looks SW.

**Hurricane Mesa** (Center). Photo looks NW with help from the telephoto lens.

800 feet above where she’d left Reef Creek, Lupe reached a small flat ridge that was out in the open. The pass she had been trying to get to earlier was now visible far below off to the SW. HP9841, one of Windy Mountain’s subpeaks, was off to the ENE, and appeared to be a mere hill not an awful lot higher than where the American Dingo was now.

Glancing back from the flat ridge. **Reef Creek valley** (Center) and **Peak 9352** (L). **Beartooth Mountains** on the horizon. Photo looks NNE.

Looking down on the pass (Center) at the upper end of the Reef Creek valley. Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.

**HP9841** (Center), a subpeak N of Windy Mountain. Photo looks ENE.

The view ahead was most encouraging! The ridge Loop was on led to a forest, but it appeared that some kind of a top was just beyond it.

Looking ahead from the flat part of the ridge. Photo looks SSW.

Climbing to and through the next forest, Lupe soon emerged on open ground along the upper NE slopes of HP9974. No need to go to the top of this barren hill, for Windy Mountain (10,262 ft.) was directly ahead, the summit still some 300 feet higher somewhere at the far end of a vast grassy slope that rose steadily SSE for 0.67 mile.

**Windy Mountain** from close to **HP9974**. Photo looks SSE.

As Lupe headed up the grassy plain, SPHP gloated.

Hah! Told you we’d make it, Looper! Map or no map!

True enough, SPHP. But for a mountain with a trail all the way to the top, we’ve sure done a lot of off-trail thrashing around in tedious terrain.

Oh, don’t worry about that now! Over and done with! Before you know it, we’ll be seeing the world from the glorious summit of Windy Mountain! On the return we can learn from our mistakes cruising down the trail all the way back to the RAV4. Easy squeezy!

Our mistakes, SPHP?

Well, sort of. We’re a team, aren’t we?

Partway up, looking back at **HP9974** (Center). **Hurricane Mesa** (L). **Pilot & Index Peaks** (R) in the distance. Photo looks NW.

Near the top, a line of widely separated tall poles along Trail No. 604 led toward the summit. Loopster was already almost there by the time she reached them. Windy Mountain’s summit region proved to be a large flat expanse, sparsely vegetated, sloping gently to the N, but bordered by cliffs all along the S edge.

No trees, bushes, large rocks, or other obstacles were present to obstruct the sweeping views in all directions. Four concrete pylons marked the corners of a now absent structure, and near them stood a 10 foot tall wooden cross. One of the pylons featured a mailbox marked “Big Windy Mountain Elev 10,262 ft.”

Approaching the summit. Photo looks SSE.

Surveying the fabulous view of **Sunlight Basin**. **Robbers Roost (12,040 ft.)** (Center) and **Trout Peak (12,244 ft.)** (R of Center) on the horizon. Photo looks SSE.

Lupe and SPHP were both ready for a long break. A spot was chosen along the SE lip of the mountain 12 feet from a survey benchmark. Shaking the Carolina Dog’s paw, SPHP congratulated Loopster on her successful, if unorthodox, ascent of Windy Mountain.

Basking in glory along the SE edge. Survey benchmark (lower L). Photo looks SSW with help from the telephoto lens.

**Peak 9841** (Center) in front of the canyon of the Clarks Fork of the Yellowstone River. Photo looks NNE.

For a long time neither Lupe nor SPHP stirred. Conditions were perfect! Clear, calm, mid 70’s ºF. Magnificent views all around! Eventually it was time to get up, though, to enter Lupe’s name in the registry contained in the mailbox, move around a bit, and take some photos.

The American Dingo generally cooperated, but tended to slink away to the shade of the concrete pylons during any lulls in the action. Not a good thing, since there was a fair amount of broken glass near them. Fortunately, no tragedy ensued.

Many beautiful peaks were in sight. SPHP knew only a few. Far to the SE, Heart Mountain (8,123 ft.) was visible beyond Dead Indian Pass. Robbers Roost (12,040 ft.) and Trout Peak (12,244 ft.) were to the S. Almost none of the splendid mountains to the SW or W were familiar.

Chief Joseph Scenic Hwy zig-zags up to **Dead Indian Pass** (Center). **Heart Mountain** (R). Photo looks SE.

**Sunlight Basin** from Windy Mountain. **Trout Peak** (R). Photo looks SSE.

**Robbers Roost** (L), **Trout Peak** (Center). Photo looks S with help from the telephoto lens.

Hanging out in the shade of a pylon. Photo looks SW.

**Indian Peak (10,923 ft.)** (R). Photo looks WSW.

Hurricane Mesa (11,064 ft.) and more distant Pilot Peak (11,699 ft.) and Index Peak (11,240 ft.) were all to the NW.

**Indian Peak** (L) and **Hurricane Mesa** (R). Photo looks W.

**Hurricane Mesa** (L). **Pilot & Index Peaks** (R). Photo looks NW.

Far to the N, many grand peaks were on display strung out along the spine of the Beartooth Mountains. Glacier Peak (12,320 ft.), Mount Villard (12,345 ft.), Tempest Mountain (12,469 ft.) and Mount Peal (12,409 ft.) were all recognizable near Granite Peak (12,799 ft.), Montana’s highest mountain. Lupe had been to Tempest Mountain.

**Glacier Peak** (far L), **Mount Villard** (L), **Granite Peak** (Center), **Tempest Mountain** (R), and **Mount Peel** (far R) all in Montana. Photo looks NNW with help from the telephoto lens.

Almost due N were Snowbank Mountain (12,084 ft.), Salo Mountain (12,250 ft.), Castle Rock Mountain (12,401 ft.), Castle Rock Spire (12,450 ft.), Castle Mountain (12,612 ft.) and Sky Pilot Mountain, (12,047 ft.) with Beartooth Butte (10,514 ft.) in the foreground.

**Summit Mountain** (far L), **Snowbank Mountain** (L), **Salo Mountain** (Center), **Castle Rock Mountain & Castle Rock Spire** (R of Center), **Castle Mountain** (R), **Sky Pilot Mountain** (far R) with **Beartooth Butte** in the foreground. Photo looks N with help from the telephoto lens.

So much to see! Mountain glory in all directions, but time waits for no Dingo. 75 minutes after arriving, Lupe stood again near the old wooden cross, the mighty Beartooths of Montana arrayed far beyond her. A final look, and the inevitable descent began.

It all went swimmingly at first, just as SPHP had said it would. Taking Windy Mountain Trail No. 604, the short way up from Sunlight Basin, Lupe followed it down to the junction with Reef Creek Trail No. 605.

At the junction of trails No. 604 & 605. Photo looks S.

No. 605 finally got Lupe to the pass at the upper end of the Reef Creek valley SPHP hadn’t been able to make it to from below. From here, the trail curved N following the ridge W of the Reef Creek valley, most of the time staying at or near the crest.

Loopster continued to enjoy spectacular views, and got to see Windy Mountain from a new perspective, including much of the route across the valley she had traveled during her ascent. Despite occasional minor uphill stretches along the big ridge, progress was rapid.

Approaching the pass (L) at the upper end of the **Reef Creek valley** (R). Photo looks N.

**Hunter Peak (9,034 ft.)** (L) from the big ridge. Photo looks NNW.

**Windy Peak**. Lupe had gone up the slope seen directly beyond her. Photo looks SSE.

All went well until Lupe started getting close to Peak 9352. The first sign of trouble began when she reached a level, but narrow section of the ridge leading to it. This low point, slightly over 9,000 feet, seemed like a logical place for No. 605 to leave the ridge and start descending into the Reef Creek valley, but instead the trail continued NNE all the way across this section and started to climb.

Approaching **HP9352** (Center). Photo looks NNE.

Lupe kept going, gaining 100 feet before reaching a little dip. Here the trail simply vanished. No sign of it continuing on toward Peak 9352, or down the steep forested slope leading into the Reef Creek valley.

Oh joy! What now, SPHP?

Not sure, Loop. We’ve come a long way. I’ve been expecting we’d reach wherever No. 605 heads down into the Reef Creek valley for a while now, but this doesn’t seem to be the place.

If only we had a map, SPHP! We’d know what to do then, or at least where to look!

Oh, hush, sarcastic Dingo! We just need to find a decent route down into the valley. We’ll be fine!

Hoping the trail would reappear, SPHP encouraged the American Dingo to keep following the ridge. That meant another climb of more than 150 feet before reaching a second flat section of the ridgeline. Peak 9352 was now directly ahead, and not very far away. Still no sign of the trail, though. Shadows were lengthening. A sense of uneasiness grew.

A final look at **Windy Mountain** from 9,300 ft. **SSW of Peak 9352**. Photo looks S.

Peak 9352 had two high points, the closer one apparently being the true summit. Lupe passed within 40 feet of the top on a traverse toward the lower point, from which the ridge presumably went on.

The Carolina Dog never completed this traverse. Looking down the slope leading into the Reef Creek valley, an open channel went between two walls of rock. Steep, but definitely doable without much trouble.

Let’s go that way, Looper!

The channel went fine, but the steep descent continued far below it. In a gloomy forest, Lupe soon found herself trapped within an increasingly rough and narrow drainage. Cliffing out was a real possibility, as a slow, anxious descent went on and on.

Fortunately, there always seemed to be a way past each pinch point. At last, another steep drainage joined in from the R. Amid a jumble of rock and deadfall, the rate of descent soon diminished. Suddenly, there it was! No. 605!

Great work, Loopster! You found it!

Even making fast tracks, it took a surprisingly long time to reach the junction with the trail Lupe had followed so far up Reef Creek. It was easy to see why this turn had been missed earlier in the day. Coming up the valley, No. 605 had split off making a hard R. There was a sign up on a tree, but it was situated along No. 605 after the turn, inconspicuous from the valley route.

The sun was still up, but time was getting to be of the essence, since SPHP hoped to get through the marsh, still miles away, before dark. Wasting no time at the junction, Lupe headed NE following No. 605 down the valley.

Confidence was high, progress excellent, but Looper’s Windy Mountain adventure wasn’t over yet. Beyond where Lupe had picked up No. 605 after the Dum-Dum Point fiasco, the Carolina Dog reached a stretch of trail she hadn’t been on before. For a long way it was nearly flat.

Approaching the area near the end of USFS Road No. 115, a much higher starting point for Windy Mountain than the picnic ground, Lupe came to open territory. Staying toward the L, she passed 4 or 5 new trail signs. None said anything more than “Trail”. Beyond these signs No. 605 began curving E, then faded away in a big meadow. Going straight eventually put Loopster on it again.

Reef Creek could now be seen down in a deep ravine on the R (S). Along the upper edge, the trail began a gradual descent. Suddenly there was motion on the slope to the N! A dark form, 200 feet away.

Loop, a bear!

In an instant, Lupe locked gazes with a medium-sized black bear. One bark, and the bear took off, running for its life.

Must have tangled with a Carolina Dog before, aye?

When you’re at the top of the food chain, you get a lot of respect, SPHP.

Evidently.

0.67 mile SE of HP8580, Reed Creek Trail No. 605 rounded the ridge Lupe had climbed over earlier in the day and turned N. The sun was down, and light was fading when it vanished into the marsh.

The marshy region proved much larger than anticipated. SPHP tried staying high, toward the L (NW) to get around it, but the maneuver soon proved futile. Unfazed, Lupe splish-splashed right on through, while SPHP’s boots (new ones, of course!) got immersed in muck. Took a while to slog through it all to dry ground.

Dusk was closing in as Looper once again searched for the trail. Down, down, mostly through open lanes between stands of conifers, but in the twilight nothing looked familiar. Finally, Lupe came to a broad bench.

Oh, I remember this, Loop! The trail leaves this bench somewhere off to the W. Shouldn’t be too far. C’mon! Find that spot and we’ve got it made in the shade!

That’s great, SPHP! Much shadier, and it’ll be pitch black!

Hurrying W toward the last light, the trail did not appear. Inexplicably, the flat bench went on and on.

An end finally came. Lupe stood at the brink of a cliff. This was it. No way forward. Dimly, the cliff could be seen stretching unbroken back to the E for a long way. The dark terrain to the N all looked hundreds of feet lower. A sudden shock as the truth sank in.

Loop, this isn’t the same bench! It’s down there! We’re way too high!

Back E then, SPHP?

Yeah! Fast as we can. All the way past these cliffs.

Night! The little flashlight had to come out. Loopster was so far E that Reef Creek could be heard shortly before a small ravine led down to the N. Was this the way? Hard to tell. Exploring it a little lower the ravine broadened out. Yes, there did seem to be a faint path.

Reef Creek Trail No. 605! Lupe was on it again. No worries now.

Windy Mountain (10,262 ft.), what a day! Back at the RAV4, 15 hours after departure, an exhausted Carolina Dog closed her eyes, twitching paws revealing that she was already setting off for new adventures in Dingo Dreamland. (End 10:52 PM, 55ºF)

**Windy Mountain**, Absaroka Range, Wyoming 6-28-21

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Cedar Mountain, Absaroka Range, Wyoming (6-26-21)

Day 5 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2021 Dingo Vacation to Wyoming!

Six miles up the spectacular Shoshone River canyon W of Cody, the RAV4 emerged from the last of 3 tunnels along Hwy 16/20/14. Immediately off to the L was the Buffalo Bill Dam Visitor Center. SPHP drove another couple of miles to the first pullout along the big reservoir.

C’mon, Looper! Let’s have a look at Cedar Mountain (7,880 ft.)!

Happy to escape the RAV4 for a while, Lupe accompanied SPHP down to Buffalo Bill Reservoir’s shoreline, a rocky beach littered with driftwood bleached white by the sun. The beautiful lake consisted of two big arms, one extending miles W near the highway and another off to the S.

Along the E shore loomed a mighty triangular-shaped mountain, it’s rugged W face composed of a series of cliffs overlooking the lake.

**Cedar Mountain** from the **N shore of Buffalo Bill Reservoir**. Photo looks E.

**Buffalo Bill Reservoir**. **Sheep Mountain (7,892 ft.)** (L). Photo looks WSW.

That’s Cedar Mountain, SPHP?

Sure is, Loop! Don’t worry, though. We won’t be going up that way!

As waves rolled in, the Carolina Dog enjoyed a sniff along the N shore before SPHP suggested checking out the visitor center. 10 minutes later, Lupe was hopping out of the RAV4 at a paved parking lot right across a narrow channel from Cedar Mountain. The visitor center was a short stroll away.

Setting out for the visitor center. Photo looks NE.

The channel leading back to the main part of the lake from the dam. Lower slopes of **Cedar Mountain** (L). Photo looks WSW.

Approaching the **Buffalo Bill Dam visitor center**. Photo looks NE.

The visitor center was not Dingo friendly, but Lupe was free to look around outside. A walkway over the dam, which was right next to the visitor center, provided a stunning view of the Shoshone River canyon.

Near **Buffalo Bill Dam** and the visitor center. **Cedar Mountain** (R). Photo looks E.

**Shoshone River canyon** from the walkway over the dam. Photo looks NE.

It’s all very scenic, SPHP! Wonder what the views are like from way up on Cedar Mountain? Must be incredible!

Oh, I bet they are, Loopster! Let’s go find out!

Driving E back down the Shoshone River canyon into Cody, SPHP missed the sign for Spirit Mountain Road, mostly likely because there wasn’t one. The turn eventually proved to be about 2 miles W of Walmart, on the L (S) from that direction, just before Cedar Mountain Trail Rides. SPHP parked the RAV4 at a large trailhead 150 feet from the highway.

**Cedar Mountain Trail Rides**, on the L (S) side of Hwy 16/20/14 heading W out of Cody, is just past the L turn onto Spirit Mountain Road. Photo looks WNW.

11:59 AM, 67ºF – Ready to go! The American Dingo left the trailhead on a dusty path which soon joined an even dustier trail used by the trail ride horses. Cedar Mountain’s lower slopes were sparsely dotted with cedars, alright, but Sagebrush Mountain might have been a better name. The horse trail quickly led to Spirit Mountain Road, which could be seen switchbacking ever higher up the NE slope.

Setting out for **Cedar Mountain**! Photo looks SW.

Sign passed early on along Spirit Mountain Road.

The road hike wasn’t very exciting, but at least it was easy, just a steady climb winding up the mountain. The predominate sagebrush didn’t block the views, which inevitably improved as Lupe trudged higher. Cumulus clouds sailed overhead providing shade, but whenever the sun came out, so did the Carolina Dog’s tongue. Starting to get hot!

At a sharp turn where there were some rock formations, Lupe left the road for water promised by SPHP and a look around. Nearby, stretches of the Shoshone River could be seen. McCullough Peaks (6,547 ft.) were visible off to the NE beyond Cody. The most dramatic view was due N of Heart Mountain (8,123 ft.).

**McCullough Mountains** (Center) beyond Cody. **Shoshone River** (L). Photo looks NE.

**Heart Mountain** (Center). Photo looks N with help from the telephoto lens.

Spirit Mountain Road from near the first rock formation viewpoint. Photo looks W.

Continuing on, the day grew sunnier. Loopster plodded along behind SPHP, panting hard, clearly not too into this baking hot trek. Whenever SPHP paused for a look at the tremendous views or to gasp for air, the Carolina Dog sought the shade of the nearest cedar tree.

After many switchbacks, the road straightened and leveled out. Towers could be seen ahead up on Cedar Mountain’s E summit. It wasn’t much farther to a vacant parking area near a trail to Spirit Mountain Cave.

Towers on **Cedar Mountain’s E summit** (Center) appear ahead as Spirit Mountain Road finally begins to level out. Photo looks SW.

Sign at the start of the Spirit Mountain Cave trail. Photo looks W.

A key had to be acquired in advance in order to visit Spirit Mountain Caverns. Since SPHP hadn’t bothered to get one, there was no point in taking this side trail. Looper continued along the road. Soon she came to another vacant parking area near a blue gate.

This blue gate was as far as the public was supposed to drive along Spirit Mountain Road. Beyond this gate were 2 miles of private property. It was SPHP’s understanding that continuing on paw was acceptable, as long as one stayed on the road. In any case, the gate was standing wide open when Lupe reached it.

The American Dingo pressed on, coming to a brown gate, also open, 15 minutes later. Beyond the brown gate the road resumed its climb. Lupe passed through a short stretch of much thicker cedar forest. Beyond the forest, she entered more open territory again. This region was grassier with far less sagebrush.

By now, Lupe was getting quite high on the mountain. A short break was taken beneath a big cedar tree near a sharp bend in the road. Water and a shared chocolate coconut bar. Clouds were again providing relief from the sun, but these clouds were darker, and so many had moved in that the weather suddenly seemed iffy.

By a nice clump of orange Indian paintbrush.

Beyond the first dense stretch of cedar forest.

However, the sky brightened again. Loopster kept going. The towers of Cedar Mountain’s E summit came back into view, still several hundred feet higher. Lupe passed a house on the R before reaching a green gate. It was open, too.

Towers ahead again! Getting closer to the E summit. Photo looks W.

Shortly after passing the green gate, Loopster started coming to the first of many towers scattered over the E summit region. The weather now seemed ominous. The sky had darkened again, and a strong breeze blew out of the NW. Rain, possibly hail, appeared imminent. Hurrying on, SPHP looked for shelter.

A gray concrete block building appeared on the L just prior to a fork in the road. Looked like it would do in a real emergency, but things weren’t that dire yet. Staying L at the fork, Lupe went a bit farther, ultimately seeking refuge in another patch of cedar forest as a gale suddenly swept over Cedar Mountain. Huge raindrops pelted Loopster as she reached the trees in the nick of time.

Approaching the first towers of the E summit region.

Or so it seemed. Not really, though. No sooner had the Carolina Dog reached the forest, which was a little way from the road, than the storm passed. The rain stopped. The wind died away. A squall, nothing more.

That’s it? Hah! I thought we were in for it, Loopster!

Maybe we ought to hang out here for a while yet, SPHP. Just to make sure we’re in the clear again.

I suppose that makes some sense. Sure, why not?

Another chocolate coconut bar would help to pass the time, SPHP! Got any more?

Oh, I see! Yes, but we only have one left. Don’t you want to save it for the summit?

No.

Silly me. Asking questions I already know the answer to.

The last chocolate coconut bar helped to pass all of about 10 seconds, and that only because SPHP took 9 to tear it into bite-sized pieces rather than one great wolf-it-down gulp. Re-energized, Lupe returned to the road.

A couple more towers passed shortly after the demise of the last chocolate coconut bar.

Although Cedar Mountain’s E summit region incorporated quite a large area, Lupe didn’t have much farther to go to get to the top. After passing W through another stretch of forest, the road climbed a small rise. Here, several more towers and sheds were scattered along a narrow ridge.

A small rock outcropping proved to be the high point. For the first time during her ascent, Lupe had a view to the W, quite a spectacular one overlooking the Shoshone River canyon and the N shore of Buffalo Bill Reservoir. Rattlesnake Mountain (9,116 ft.) was just across the canyon, and Trout Peak (12,244 ft.) was visible among others on the horizon.

Cedar Mountain’s true summit, still 0.75 mile off to the WSW, was now in sight, too.

Near the **E summit’s high point**. **West (true) summit** (L). Photo looks WSW.

At the **E summit’s high point**. Photo looks W.

The best view was from the E summit’s far W end, only a short distance past the high point. The road went right to it.

**True summit** (L), **Buffalo Bill Reservoir** (Center) from the **W end of the E summit**. Photo looks W.

**Buffalo Bill Reservoir** (L), **Trout Peak** on the horizon (R), **Rattlesnake Mountain** (far R). Photo looks WNW.

From this grand viewpoint, the road went S down a steep open slope, then turned WSW toward the W summit. Lupe lost 250 feet of elevation before the road bottomed out in yet another forest and began to climb again. At the very end, a shorter steep slope led to a collection of small antennas.

Approaching antennas at the end of the road. Photo looks W.

The true summit of Cedar Mountain (7,880 ft.) was a 12 foot diameter platform of rock just beyond the antennas. The views of Buffalo Bill Reservoir 2,500 feet below, and the mountainous territory beyond it were stupendous!

**Buffalo Bill Reservoir** from **Cedar Mountain’s W (true) summit**. Photo looks WSW.

**Trout Peak** (L) on the horizon. **Rattlesnake Mountain** (R). Photo looks NW.

A glance back at the **E summit** (Center). Photo looks ENE.

A 20-25 mph NW wind was sweeping over the exposed platform when Lupe arrived. Clouds raced by, but except for occasional stronger gusts, the weather never really threatened again. Loop didn’t care for the wind at all, and spent nearly her entire summit hour either hunched down on the rock, or curled up on SPHP’s lap. Most of the time she was in shadow, but there were moments of sunshine, too.

Relaxing at the **true summit**. Photo looks W.

**W arm of Buffalo Bill Reservoir**. Photo looks W.

**Heart Mountain**. Photo looks N with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

Cedar Mountain was an awesome vantage point, but the NW wind was relentless. Lupe was ready when it was time to go. The American Dingo had one more thing to do up here, though! She was all the way back at the fork in the road at the E summit, when SPHP had a surprise for her.

Final moments at the true summit. Photo looks WSW.

Loopster, want to see a buffalo?

A buffalo? Up here? Sure!

Taking the fork to the R (N) that Lupe hadn’t explored earlier on the way up, it was less than 0.2 mile to a tombstone near cliffs overlooking the Shoshone River canyon. Nearby, on a platform of rock at the brink of the precipice, a buffalo stood alone in a gale.

A white buffalo! You were right, SPHP!

Awe and a touch of trepidation soon turned to disappointment when the buffalo did nothing, and a cautious sniff test subsequently revealed it to be a mere statue, not the real thing. In fact, the poor buffalo was a little worse for the wear, missing its horns and in need of fresh paint. Still it was a pretty cool buffalo, and certainly enjoyed a magnificent view.

At the E summit fork in the road. The R fork heads for the buffalo. Photo looks NNW.

Next to the buffalo, at the base of the platform, was a green metal box. Opening it, SPHP found another box of orange plastic tucked into foam padding. This box contained an elegant leather bound registry. Due to the fierce wind, SPHP read only one or two entries before adding Lupe’s name, and putting it all away again.

The fancy registry in the orange-tinted plastic box.

So, who was Breck Moran, SPHP? Was he a friend of the buffalo?

Don’t really know much about Mr. Moran, Loop. Says here that he was a crusader for Wyoming’s development. The buffalo is actually in honor of Buffalo Bill, who founded the town of Cody among many other exploits during a long, adventurous life.

So, Buffalo Bill was a friend of the buffalo?

No, not really. He was a famous buffalo hunter who killed thousands of them to supply Kansas Pacific Railroad workers with meat in the late 1860’s. But he must have liked buffalo. His 1906 will said he wanted to be buried up here on Cedar Mountain with a statue of a buffalo. However, in 1917, Buffalo Bill died while on a trip to Colorado, and his wife had him buried on Lookout Mountain (7,374 ft.) in Golden instead.

So, Buffalo Bill liked buffalo, but killed thousands of them? That doesn’t make any sense, SPHP!

Humans can be funny that way, Loopster.

Funny peculiar, maybe, SPHP! Not funny haha, especially for the buffalo!

Think of Buffalo Bill and the buffalo like Dingoes and squirrels. You love squirrels, but if it weren’t for trees, you’d be known as Squirrel Loop!

Evidently the American Dingo wasn’t sure what to say to that. She made no response. Taking leave of the white buffalo on it’s windy platform with the spectacular view high on Cedar Mountain, perhaps it was food for thought as Lupe returned to the road and started the long, winding trek back down to the RAV4. (End 8:01 PM, 75ºF).

**Buffalo Bill Reservoir** from **Cedar Mountain**, Absaroka Range, Wyoming 6-26-21

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Livingston Peak, Absaroka Range, Montana (8-19-20)

Days 14-16 of Lupe’s 3rd Summer of 2020 Dingo Vacation to Wyoming & Montana!

8-18-20, 4:35 PM, 72ºF, Kings Hill Pass, Hwy 89 – As Lupe sniffed her way around the Kings Hill campground loop, sad thoughts. A few years ago, this had been a popular place. The campground was open again after being closed the last couple of times the Carolina Dog had visited, but hardly anyone around now. Most of the beautiful trees had been cut. A sign said water was no longer available due to the spring drying up.

Along the road to nearby Porphyry Peak (8,192 ft.), the situation wasn’t much better. Trees cut way back from the roadside were heaped in ugly brown piles. At least it only turned out to be this way near the start. After the first curve, the forest hadn’t been touched.

Looper trotted along keeping an eye out for squirrels. She’d spent much of the day relaxing by Jefferson Creek while SPHP caught up the trip journal. That had gotten mighty dull after a while, so she was happy just being on the move again.

Didn’t take long to reach Porphyry Peak’s summit. The sky was the clearest the American Dingo had seen it up here in years. Miles to the NE, Long Mountain (8,621 ft.), Big Baldy Mountain (9,177 ft.), and Yogo Peak (8,801 ft.), 3 of the highest peaks in the Little Belt Range, were all looking good!

Near the fire lookout tower on **Porphyry Peak**. Photo looks E.

**Long Mountain** (L), **Old Baldy Mountain** (Center) and **Yogo Peak** (R). Photo looks NE.

8-18-20, 7:32 PM, 71ºF, Kings Hill Pass – Porphyry Peak hadn’t taken all that long. Loop had been back for an hour already. She was surprised, but all for it when SPHP suggested heading up to Kings Hill (8,008 ft.), too. With the air so clear and a few clouds around, maybe there would be a fabulous sunset?

Lupe arrived at the summit just in time. Eh, not super spectacular, but not bad, either.

**Porphyry Peak** (L) from Kings Hill. Photo looks WNW.

8-19-20, morning, Hwy 89, S of White Sulphur Springs – Wet pavement was all the G6 encountered as an isolated storm drifted off to the E, but the sky still looked stormy ahead. After a brief stop in Livingston, SPHP drove S a couple of miles to a L turn (Hwy 89, MP 49.8) onto East River Road (Hwy 540). After crossing a bridge, East River Road curved SE.

Hey, SPHP! Wasn’t that the Carter bridge? We spent some time here down by the Yellowstone River not too long ago, didn’t we?

Yup! That’s right, Loop! We stopped at the river after checking out the Suce Creek trailhead, remember?

Isn’t that the trailhead for Livingston Peak (9,314 ft.)? Are we going to do that next?

Yes, and yes!

Having scouted it out before, SPHP drove right to the trailhead.

**Livingston Peak** (Center) from the NNW a week earlier.

**Suce Creek Road** is a L (E) turn off East River Road 3 miles SE of Hwy 89 and the Carter Bridge over the Yellowstone River. Photo looks S.

**Suce Creek Road** from East River Road. Photo looks ESE.

**Livingston Peak** from about a mile in on Suce Creek Road. Photo looks NE.

Sign at a R turn to the Suce Creek trailhead. Photo looks NE.

At the Suce Creek trailhead a week earlier. Photo looks NE.

8-19-20, 11:10 AM, 64ºF, Suce Creek trailhead – A small thunderstorm passed through shortly after Lupe reached the trailhead, resulting in a 15 minute delay waiting in the G6 for the rain to stop. Quite a few clouds still around, but plenty of blue sky to the W, so maybe it was going to be OK? SPHP had a look at a posted map of area trails before Loop started up Suce Creek trail No. 44.

Suce Creek area trail map. Loop started out from the lower trailhead.

At the start of Suce Creek trail No. 44.

Heading SE, Lupe crossed a meadow. The trail then curved N, climbing into a region of tall bushes. Loop gained 100 feet of elevation before the trail leveled out. Here a junction appeared on the R with North Deep Creek trail No. 45, but the American Dingo ignored it and went on.

Crossing the first meadow. **HP7290** (R). Photo looks SE.

At the junction with N Deep Creek trail No. 45, which Lupe didn’t take. Photo looks NE.

The Suce Creek trail soon curved back to the W and started downhill. After losing 280 feet of elevation, Lupe came to a large half-rotten log with a wooden handrail serving as a bridge over a small stream.

Just beyond the log bridge was another trail intersection, this time with West Suce Creek trail No. 450, which went off to the L. Directly ahead was Suce Creek itself. Lupe went R, sticking with Trail No. 44.

Intersection of Suce Creek trails No. 44 and No. 450.

Staying SE of Suce Creek, the trail went NE up a long leafy valley. Due to the dense vegetation, Suce Creek was often heard, but seldom in sight. Before long, Lupe started coming to more signs. The first one mentioned an actual Livingston Peak trailhead 4 miles ahead. 9 or 10 minutes past this sign the trail forked.

The L branch quickly led to a bank overlooking Suce Creek where the trail simply ended, apparently eroded away. Returning to the R branch, there was a small “NF TRAIL” sign. Loop continued on this way.

On leafy Suce Creek trail No. 44. Photo looks NE.

*Maybe there’s a shorter way to Livingston Peak, SPHP? 4 miles to the official trailhead!*

The L branch of a fork disappears into **Suce Creek**.

45 minutes from the trailhead, Suce Creek trail No. 44 finally crossed Suce Creek. No bridge here, but the stream was merely a rock hop. Up to this point, Lupe had been gaining elevation quite slowly. However, the incline now steepened somewhat as she started up into the Lost Creek valley.

Lost Creek was just a tiny thing. The trail crossed it several times, often as little more than dry washes, or a mud hole at one point. Farther up the valley, Lost Creek actually had better flow. 45 minutes after crossing Suce Creek, Lupe crossed Lost Creek at a point where the stream was deepest, which still wasn’t saying much.

*Lost Creek is looking pretty good here! A mighty 2 inches deep!*

Beyond this final Lost Creek crossing, Trail No. 44 left the valley floor. Lupe climbed a short, steep slope. Curving sharply back to the SW, the trail promptly leveled out. Soon occasional breaks in the forest were providing first glimpses of Livingston Peak (9,314 ft.) and Mount Delano (10,138 ft.).

At the start of a long switchback reached after crossing Lost Creek. Photo looks SW.

A glimpse of **Livingston Peak** (L). Photo looks ESE.

Loopster followed this nice, flat switchback for 0.5 mile before reaching a clearing at Pass 6420. A crude wooden bench offered a good view of Mount Delano. The top of what might have been Mount McKnight (10,310 ft.) was even in sight.

Arriving at a big clearing 4 miles from the Suce Creek trailhead. Photo looks E.

**Mount McKnight** (?) (Center), **Mount Delano** (R). Photo looks SSE.

This clearing was a major intersection with a number of other trails. The upper end of West Suce Creek trail No. 450 went off to the SW from here. Just around a corner to the NE, was a spur going NW to the official Livingston Peak trailhead. Lupe had no reason to visit that destination, though. Instead she headed NE on Livingston Peak trail No. 449.

About to start up Livingston Peak trail No. 449. Photo looks NE.

Lupe had traveled 4 miles in 2 hours to get to the clearing, but only had a net gain of 800 feet of elevation to show for it. Still 3,000 feet to go! Even so, the first part of the Livingston Peak trail still wasn’t steep. The trail wound NE on a broad, forested ridge gaining elevation at an easy to moderate pace.

SPHP began hearing a sound like the faint jingling of bear bells, but Lupe seemed oblivious to it. Turned out that the sound was actually water trickling through a rusty 4″ diameter pipe half buried along the edge of the trail. This pipe followed the trail for quite a long way, even after the trail left the ridge to traverse the same steep slope Lupe had been on earlier, but now well above that first long switchback.

From up here, Lupe had a much better view of Livingston Peak.

**Livingston Peak** from the upper switchback. Photo looks E.

This upper switchback was also long and flat. Easy traveling! Loopster made rapid progress. Soon she could see a big rock formation 1.5 miles off to the ENE. Checking the topo map, SPHP suspected Pass 8300 was over in that vicinity.

On the also easy, upper switchback. Photo looks NE.

**Pass 8300** is up next to the big rock formation (Center). Photo looks E.

Continuing NE, the terrain was changing. Somewhere along the way, Lupe left the moss-covered water pipe and upper switchback behind, as the steepness of the slope the trail was on began to decrease. The trail eventually turned E, crossing a fairly large meadow before returning to the forest where the Carolina Dog went over minor Pass 7060.

On the E side of Pass 7060, Livingston Peak trail No. 449 curved N, but soon gradually swung around to the E, then SE. For a little way, Lupe was on the NE side of the upper Lost Creek drainage. As soon as the trail dipped to cross the dry stream bed, the situation changed.

Up to this point, both the Suce Creek and Livingston Peak trails had been easy to moderate (at worst) climbs virtually the entire way. The couple of long switchbacks had been been quite flat, and beyond Pass 7060 there had been a stretch where Lupe had even lost a little elevation. However, on the SW side of Lost Creek, Trail No. 449 started climbing much more aggressively, pinned tightly between a steep forested slope and the creek bed.

On the NE side of the valley, large rock formations formed the crest of a long ridge rising to the SE.

Rock formations seen shortly before crossing upper Lost Creek. Photo looks N.

SW side of Lost Creek. The trail starts climbing much more aggressively here.

At first, Lost Creek seemed to be completely dry this high up, but that wasn’t entirely true. Now and then a trickle of water surfaced, enough for Lupe to get a drink, but little more than that. The trail soon crossed back over to the NE side of the valley, where it remained from then on continuing relentlessly higher. Meanwhile, views of the rocky ridge to the NE became more and more impressive.

**HP7623** (L) and the ridge of rock NE of the trail (R). Photo looks NNW.

*Seems like we’re finally starting to get somewhere!* Photo looks NNW.

*Can’t be too much farther to **Pass 8300**!* Photo looks SE.

The last water in Lost Creek was seen right before the trees gave out. Ahead, a meadow stretched all the remaining distance up to Pass 8300. Another 200+ feet of elevation gain ought to about do it!

**Pass 8300** (Center) appears ahead. Photo looks SE.

Pass 8300 was a broad grassy region. A large cairn sat out in the middle of it. Although the topo map showed a trail continuing over the SE side of the pass into East Baldy Basin, Lupe saw no sign of it. The view of the canyon on the other side was impressive, though, and so was the sight of a massive forested slab of rock on Livingston Peak’s N slope.

The N side of Pass 8300 was bordered by a grassy hill topped by a strip of forest above which a distinctive crest of solid rock curved like the brim of a giant old-fashioned bonnet. Back to the NW was a hazy view of Livingston, Montana, fully 3,800 feet lower way down in the Yellowstone River valley.

Looking over **Pass 8300**. Photo looks SE.

**N slope of Livingston Peak**. How do trees even survive on that slab of rock with so little soil? Photo looks SSE.

By the **Pass 8300 cairn**. Livingston, Montana is visible down in the Yellowstone River valley beyond Lupe and forested **HP7623** (L of Center). Photo looks NW.

The S side of Pass 8300 was bordered by a steep forested slope. The N face of Livingston Peak (9,314 ft.) looked about 300 feet high, but only part of it could be seen from here. In reality, Loopster still had another 1,000 feet to go. After a short rest break, the American Dingo headed for the trees at the base of the slope.

**N face of Livingston Peak** from **Pass 8300**. Photo looks SW.

**Mission Creek valley** (R) from just below the trees S of Pass 8300. **HP8460** (Center). Photo looks ENE.

Looking back at **Pass 8300** before heading up. **Peak 8631** (far R). Photo looks NNE.

Fortunately, a use trail went up Livingston Peak’s N face. The slope was so steep that SPHP kept grabbing branches and tree trunks for support, as Lupe charged practically straight up the mountain. Nearly the entire route was forested, but toward the top, the trees shrank in size and began to thin out.

Getting easier! Already a long way up the N slope where the trees start thinning out. Photo looks S.

Rock slides appeared, a few cairns showing the route higher. Above the rocks, Lupe found the trail again on a grassy slope dotted with young pines, but it soon played out, vanishing 50 feet below the top.

Looking down on **Pass 8300** (R of Center). **Peak 8631** (R). Photo looks NNE.

The rest was easy! Lupe reached a stony NW/SE oriented summit ridge. A cairn with boards and a metal pole sticking out of it at weird angles was visible a short distance to the SE. From the cairn, the true summit appeared to be over at a collection of rocks 25 or 30 feet farther SE, but they were only marginally higher.

Made it! On the summit ridge. Photo looks SE.

By the oddly decorated cairn. Photo looks NW.

5:08 PM, Livingston Peak – Whew! From Suce Creek, Livingston Peak had been a long march followed by that 1,000 foot very steep climb at the end. SPHP dumped the backpack by some stunted pines near the true summit. A couple photos of a survey benchmark attached to one of the largest rocks, and it was time for a break.

The **survey benchmark** (Center) and cairn from the true summit. **Canyon Mountain (8,038 ft.)** (L of Center). Photo looks WNW.

Too bad the sky wasn’t as clear as it had been earlier! Only weakly sunny now. Plenty of general murkiness, but still some blue sky to the N. A small thunderstorm rumbled 25 miles S, dropping heavy rain as it drifted NE. SPHP kept an eye on it as Looper relaxed. No worries. Gonna miss Livingston Peak by a wide margin.

The best views were to the S where Black Mountain (10,941 ft.) soared well beyond Mount Delano (10,138 ft.), which was connected by a long ridge of lesser peaks to Peak 10228 farther E.

**Peak 10228** (L). **HP8806** in the foreground above Lupe’s rump with **Black Mountain** (Center) in the distance beyond it. **Mount Delano** a bit to the R. Photo looks S.

The highest part of Livingston Peak’s summit ridge was 600 or 700 feet long. The N slope Lupe had come up had been very steep, but the S side of the mountain was even steeper, nearly a precipice. The true summit was much closer to the NW end of the summit ridge than the SE end, and the cairn even more so.

Another thunderstorm appeared W of the first one, but observation led merely to the conclusion that this storm was destined to miss Livingston Peak, as well. After enjoying a decent break, Loopster set off to explore the longer part of the summit ridge to the SE. Small pines concentrated along the S edge were easily bypassed by staying a bit to the N.

Exploring the summit ridge. Photo looks SE.

From the entire ridge, Lupe had a clear view of Peak 8631 and HP8460 to the NE. After traveling SE far enough to get past most of the trees, she also had a panoramic view of everything that way, too.

**Peak 8631** (L) and **HP8460** (Center). Photo looks NE.

**Peak 9472** (far L) and **Peak 9444** just to the R of it. **Peak 10228** (L of Center), **Black Mountain** (R of Center), and **Mount Delano** (R). Photo looks S.

**Peak 10228** (Center). Photo looks SSE with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

**Peak 10088** (L), **Black Mountain** (Center), and **Mount Delano** (R). Photo looks S with help from the telephoto lens.

If Lupe had had the time, she could have explored Livingston Peak’s SE ridge for miles, but she went only 400 or 500 feet from the true summit to where the highest part of the ridge began to drop off appreciably. Doubling back to explore the much shorter section of the ridge NW of the true summit, SPHP kept a close eye on events to the SW where rain showers could still be seen beyond the lower Suce Creek valley and Yellowstone River.

Storms to the S and SW bore watching. Lower Suce Creek valley (R). Photo looks SW.

Lower **Suce Creek valley** (Center). **Yellowstone River** beyond it. Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.

Venturing out along the **NW ridge**. Photo looks SE back toward the cairn.

Lupe went only 200 or 300 feet beyond the cairn to where the NW ridge got kind of rocky. Beyond this point, the ridge started dropping off much more steeply. Unfortunately, conditions to the W were deteriorating. What should have been a great view of Livingston, Montana was very hazy. Prairies, hills and mountains beyond it were barely visible. Far to the N was a dim view of the Crazy Mountains.

As far NW as Lupe went. **Canyon Mountain (8,308 ft.)** (L). **Livingston, MT** (lower R). Photo looks NW.

**Livingston, MT**. Photo looks NW with help from the telephoto lens.

Looking down on **HP7623** (Center). **Yellowstone River** beyond it. Photo looks NNW.

**Crazy Mountains** in the distance. Photo looks N.

By the time Lupe had been up on Livingston Peak for 40 minutes, not a speck of blue sky remained. A third thunderstorm was now off to the SW. Not wanting to leave before her traditional hour at the top was over, Loop headed back to the stunted pines near the true summit to relax a while longer.

The entire S horizon darkened as the Carolina Dog watched a gray wall of heavy rain creep steadily closer, sweeping from vision everything in its path. Raining almost everywhere to the S now. Lupe and SPHP hung in there, enjoying a few last precious moments of rest, solitude, and quiet contemplation.

Enjoying another break as the rain spreads. Peak 9472 (L), **Peak 9444** (Center), and **Peak 10288** (R). Photo looks SE.

8-19-20, 6:12 PM, Livingston Peak – Alright! Hour’s up! Better get with it. A final stroll about the true summit area, and Lupe stood by the cairn on top of Livingston Peak (9,314 ft.) for the last time. The wall of rain to the S was only a few miles away now. Impact seemed certain.

Near the end. Looking SE from the **true summit**.

Loop’s last moments at the **true summit** with the cairn beyond her. Photo looks NW.

By the cairn with rain on the way. Photo looks W.

Onward! Puppy, ho!

Might have waited too long! Hurry, hurry! Livingston Peak’s steep N slope would be extremely slick and super treacherous, if it got soaked. Bad enough when it was dry! In a rush, Lupe and SPHP left the summit heading NNW down the grassy slopes leading to the rock slides.

Uh, oh. Where’s the trail? SPHP couldn’t find it. Loop sniffed about, but didn’t seem to know where it was, either. A couple of minutes marching back and forth looking for some sign of it, and SPHP spotted a cairn down among the rocks. There we go!

Below the rocks, the trail was easily picked up again. The race was on, such as it was. SPHP had to proceed at least somewhat cautiously. Just too steep! Meanwhile, Lupe decided to play a game. The crazy Carolina Dog kept stopping and letting SPHP go on ahead. She just sat there until SPHP was completely out of sight before she’d even consider following. SPHP often had to call her again and again before she’d reappear.

Not a good time for these Dingo shenanigans!

Down, down, down! For some reason the rain was holding off. Ought to have been here by now. A few scattered big drops hit. Thunder rumbled closer and closer. Any moment now!

Yet it didn’t happen. Started sprinkling a few times, but kept quitting. Lucky! Would be great to get down to Pass 8300 before the rain really hit. Lupe finally got the idea that down was the place to be. The waiting and stalking game apparently over, she zipped on by SPHP.

Hah! Made it! There was Loopster waiting down at the pass.

Somehow the rain must have missed Livingston Peak? Even so, the race was still on. The way the sky looked, likely a temporary reprieve. Once SPHP joined Looper at Pass 8300, she led the way, turning NW down into the upper Lost Creek drainage on Livingston Peak trail No. 449.

The Luck of the Dingo held! The trail seemed longer than SPHP remembered, but Lupe got clear down past the steep part along Lost Creek, too. Still no rain, but storms were now squeezing in from both S and N. Making great progress here, though! The path was now level or a slight downhill slant most of the time.

The forest grew dim. Hard to tell what the storm situation was. Lupe made it over minor Pass 7060, and through the meadow! The American Dingo reached the long straightaway of the upper switchback, but trouble was inevitable. Trapped! Raining to the N! Raining to the S! Thunder and lightning to the W! Livingston Peak was the only place where it wasn’t raining. Not gonna last.

Toward the end of the upper switchback, it began. Light rain at first. Reaching the ridge leading down to the trail junction where the wooden bench was, SPHP stopped to put on the ancient tattered blue Cookie Monster look-alike rain poncho. Flashlight on! An already damp Dingo resumed the trek. Moments later, the deluge hit.

Not exactly a cloudburst, but it rained hard. Lightning flashed, thunder boomed. Totally drenched, Loopster was miserable and worried sick. Scary close! Again and again the impenetrable black forest suddenly lit up in a blinding blaze, momentarily illuminating dripping trees and pouring rain. An instant later black as death again, only the feeble beam of the flashlight revealing the muddy trail ahead.

30 minutes, and the rain abated. Thunder and deadly lightning drifted E. Occasional light showers, then nothing. No way to dry off, though. Sopping wet vegetation overhung the trail in too many places.

8-19-20, 10:08 PM, Suce Creek trailhead – The Livingston Peak adventure was finally over. SPHP opened the door of the G6, and a mighty weary American Dingo leapt inside. Atop a pile of gear and pillows, Lupe curled up on her pink blankie and started licking herself dry. Too tired to even eat much, she closed her eyes after only 0.5 can of Alpo. Lights out, totally zonked.

8-20-20, 7:22 PM, SW of Meeteetse, WY – Light already fading, Lupe stood alongside the W end of Hwy 431. Parched sagebrush and a white sky. Off to the W, a pink-orange sun had just sunk into the murk.

At the W end of Hwy 413 SW of Meeteetse, Wyoming. Photo looks NE.

The Carolina Dog’s 3rd Dingo Vacation of the Year of Perfect Vision was over. Livingston Peak had been the grand finale. Lupe was going home.

August 20th! Wasn’t supposed to be like this. So many mountains yet to climb this summer! But the sun had been pink-orange at the Suce Creek trailhead this morning, too. SPHP hadn’t thought much of it at the time. Rained again for an hour. About mid-morning when it started getting sunny and hot, Lupe and SPHP had driven down to the Yellowstone River access point, and hung out down there for a few hours.

However, yesterday’s rains were merely local. By mid-afternoon, the air was hazy again. The plan was to go climb mountains in the Beartooths next, but when Lupe got there, the air was thick with smoke. Only a dim outline of the mighty Beartooths could be seen.

No sense in going to all the trouble of climbing big mountains smothered in smoke! Eh, no worries. The Beartooths aren’t the only mountains in the American West. Time for Plan B! Lupe could just slip down into Wyoming and head for the grand and glorious Wind River range.

Wyoming was no better. In fact, it was worse. Not a cloud in the sky. Ought to have been a perfect day. Looking straight up Lupe could see a blue tinge. Everywhere else, a dirty white sky. A uniform dirty white for hundreds of miles.

Somewhere out W, countless wildfires were raging. The Livingston Peak rain had been a lucky, local fluke. Almost everywhere else, the W was in drought. Come to think of it, the sky had been hazy only a few days ago even at West Butte (6,983 ft.) way up in the Sweetgrass Hills by the Canadian border.

SW of Meeteetse, SPHP came to the realization that the Wind River range wasn’t going to be any different. Not much chance of finding clear skies anywhere else out W either. Prime time to be in the mountains, yet maybe the season was effectively over? Significant, widespread rains weren’t likely this time of year. Not out W!

That’s what it was going to take, too, wasn’t it?

The Year of Perfect Vision felt cursed. Was climbing season really, truly over already? Was Lupe done? Enormously disappointing, but sure felt like it. Maybe the Carolina Dog’s grand day at Livingston Peak really was the end. (Home, 8-21-20, 1:35 AM)

On **Livingston Peak**, Absaroka Range, Montana 8-19-20

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