Days 8 & 9 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2021 Dingo Vacation to Wyoming!
6-29-21, early, Reef Creek Picnic Area, Chief Joseph Scenic Highway – After pulling a piece of paper out of a back pocket, SPHP was stunned.
Loopster! Guess what! You won’t believe this. I had it all along!
Had what, SPHP?
The Windy Mountain topo map. Had it the whole time yesterday! It was in my back pocket. Sure would have made things a lot easier, if I’d known that.
SPHP, you mean to tell me that you didn’t check all of your pockets, and never actually lost the map?
Crazy, I know! I thought I’d looked everywhere, but, yeah, that’s the case. Just found it.
So we did all that steep off-trail wandering for no reason at all?
Seems that way, Loop. I guess you could say that.
You’re right, SPHP! I can hardly believe it. You may not have lost the map, your mind on the other paw, I’m not so sure about.
Without the map yesterday, Windy Mountain (10,262 ft.) had turned into somewhat of an ordeal. Didn’t matter now, though. Lupe had made it to the top even without the map, and today was a rest day. She could snooze as much as she wanted to while SPHP drove. At a stop at Dead Indian Pass for a photo looking back at Windy Mountain, the American Dingo didn’t even bother getting out of the RAV4.
By noon, the snoozing was about over. S of Thermopolis, Lupe waded in the Wind River while SPHP went for a swim in Rattler Whirlpool. Cows and horses on the drive to Lander provided too many frenzied barking opportunities to even think about passing out.
6-29-21, 2:20 PM, 80ºF – Lander city park! Lupe recognized it instantly. Always a good time, the rest of the day would get spent right here. The Middle Popo Agie River sure looked low for this time of year, but the park was still full of soft green grass beneath the old cottonwoods. SPHP worked on the trip journal. Meanwhile, Looper watched squirrels and sniffed with other dogs until it got dark.
6-30-21, 8:23 AM, Hwy 287/26 NW of Dubois near Togwotee Pass – Several miles ahead, a massive ridge stood N of the highway.
Hope you got all rested up yesterday, Looper, cause I think that’s it!
That’s North Breccia Cliffs (11,240 ft.), SPHP?
Believe so, Loop!
Going to be a long day, isn’t it?
Especially the way we’re going to go about it, Loopster! Big Chicken route, here we come!
5 miles NW of Togwotee Pass, SPHP started looking for a R turn onto USFS Road No. 30042. A gravel road appeared almost immediately. No sign, but SPHP tried it. Ahh, there was a sign right after making the turn! “Holmes Cave T.H.” This was it!
The huge trailhead proved to be only 0.1 mile from the highway. Good thing the trailhead was so big, because the joint was jumping when Lupe arrived on this beautiful morning at the end of June. With a little luck, SPHP managed to find a spot to squeeze the RAV4 into the mix. Excited, the American Dingo leapt out to mingle with the crowd.
6-30-21, 9:05 AM, 57ºF, Holmes Cave trailhead, 5 miles NW of Togwotee Pass – Taking USFS Road No. 30042, Lupe set out for North Breccia Cliffs, pausing almost right away for a drink out of a big mud puddle fed by a tiny trickle of a stream. From the puddle, the road went NE up a gentle rise, quickly topping out and turning N.
An ancient cabin was just ahead beyond a somewhat larger stream, which was easily crossed on a few decaying boards of dubious strength that served as a bridge. The road ended at the cabin, but Holmes Cave Trail No. 6057 continued N. After a gradual gain of more than 200 feet of elevation, Lupe reached a minor pass. Partially forested hills were in sight beyond the pass, as the trail began a gentle descent into a valley.
After losing some elevation, the trail began curving NE again. Lupe came to a region of low bushes. The Carolina Dog passed a mucky area along a seeping hillside before reaching a small stream. This was soon followed by another stream, the largest one yet, but it still wasn’t very big. Loop waded across while SPHP easily rock-hopped it.
Beyond the streams, Holmes Cave Trail No. 6057 continued NE, now heading up a beautiful, green valley. Even the sagebrush looked great! Part of the meadow contained an enormous dense stand of bushes chest high on SPHP, a veritable jungle to Lupe where she couldn’t see a thing. Fortunately, other than another muddy stretch, the trail was good as it passed through this huge thicket before crossing another small stream. By now, the NW end of North Breccia Cliffs (11,240 ft.) was in view.
Swarms of butterflies flitted and danced among countless wildflowers as the trail proceeded toward the still distant cliffs. Several big yellow and black Swallowtails were among them. Passing a small pond on the R (S), SPHP dubbed it Swallowtail Pond.
Beyond Swallowtail Pond, instead of continuing toward North Breccia Cliffs, Holmes Cave Trail No. 6057 began curving N, steepening as it started a long climb out of the valley.
If we were like most climbers, Looper, we’d probably leave the trail along in here and head straight for the NW end of North Breccia Cliffs. That’s the popular short route I’ve read about online.
But we’re going the long way because you’re a big chicken, right SPHP?
Exactly! The direct route is a good 4 miles shorter one way than what we’re going to attempt, but involves heading up a long chute of loose rock. I’m under the impression that the chute is only class 2+, but the pictures I’ve seen freak me out. Appears to be incredibly steep! No doubt you could make it, Loop, but I’m not having anything to do with that crazy chute.
The sun felt hot on the trudge up out of the valley. As Lupe got higher, the popular climber’s chute SPHP was scared of came into view. Still a mile off, but checking it out with the help of the camera’s telephoto lens didn’t change SPHP’s opinion. Nope, not doing that!
The sunny trudge N continued for 0.67 mile to a pass where Holmes Cave Trail No. 6057 topped out on an open slope just W of HP10218. Ahead was a gradual descent toward the saddle leading to HP10392, which was now in sight directly ahead.
Getting to be about time for a break, SPHP! Since we’re so close and there are some trees up there, why don’t we check out HP10218? We can sit in the shade and have a look around.
Sounded good! The Carolina Dog was soon relaxing up on HP10218.
As expected, HP10218 was a terrific viewpoint! Off to the SE was a great look at the long ridge leading to the NW end of North Breccia Cliffs, plus the best view yet of the feared Class 2+ chute. To the N was a nice look at HP10392. Mighty Grand Teton (13,770 ft.) was even in sight far beyond the rolling country WSW of HP10218.
A blue speck was visible in the forest beyond a broad valley to the NE. That was Holmes Cave Lake, where Lupe was headed next. As soon as break time was over, the American Dingo returned to Holmes Cave Trail No. 6057, which would take her right to it.
On the way down to the saddle leading to HP10392, the trail vanished in a vast field of yellow and purple wildflowers. A few cairns marked the way as the route turned E leaving the saddle. Small springs seeped from an enormous hillside, creating a creek. After crossing a muddy region, Loop picked up the trail again as it reappeared heading ENE down into the huge drainage N of Peak 10385.
An easy 0.67 mile trek led down to a sparkling shallow stream. Beyond this low point, the trail continued NE up into the forest. After regaining 200 feet of elevation over 0.3 mile, Lupe arrived at Holmes Cave Lake.
The little lake was lovely, but the air was humming with what initially appeared to be giant mosquitoes. Turned out they were actually some kind of super-sized gnats.
These gnats are driving me crazy, SPHP!
Yeah, me too, Loop! Thought we’d take another little break here, but let’s keep going. This is it for Holmes Cave Trail No. 6057, though. Head E!
No it isn’t! The trail keeps going right past the lake, SPHP!
I know. It goes to Holmes Cave, which is only another 0.5 mile, but we don’t need to go there.
All this way, and we aren’t going to get to see the cave?
Nope, not unless we still have the daylight and oomph for it on the way back. Still a long way to North Breccia Cliffs. Like I said, head E! Time to find out if my Big Chicken route avoiding that chute is going to work!
Leaving the S end of Holmes Cave Lake, the Carolina Dog went E toward a scraggly looking forest half full of dead trees. A minor climb led to a lumpy region of small hills and valleys. Lupe tried to take a break on one of the first hills, but this forest harbored real mosquitoes, which soon put an end to that notion.
The far N end of North Breccia Cliffs’ long N ridge was already in sight. Steep, but it didn’t look too bad.
Climb that ridge, SPHP?
No. Don’t think so, Loop. Saw some impossible rocky terrain along that ridge on the way here. Let’s try going around the N end. Farther E, the topo map looks like there might be an easier way.
On the way over to the N end of the ridge, Looper made an unexpected and welcome discovery. A trail! Looked seldom used, but it was good enough to follow and going the right way.
At first the trail was level, but it soon began a slow descent. Looked like it might be destined to go all the way down into the valley to the N. Not good! However, after only a relatively minor drop, the trail leveled out again before beginning to climb a bit.
Soon Lupe was past the end of the first big ridge she was trying to get around. Still following the faint trail, which now trended SE, she gained a little more elevation before reaching a clearing where it faded away completely. Looking S, a steep route higher was visible between the N ridge and a big rock formation to the E. Might work!
However, this first route looked pretty steep. Another potential route S was a little farther E. Perhaps a bit easier? Loopster gave it a go.
Steep, and about twice as big a climb as it looked like from below, but it worked! Not at all scary. Upon reaching the upper end of the steep part, a snowbank partially filled a little valley that wound gradually higher. This valley soon curved SE and broadened out into another steepish slope, but this one was even easier.
A short climb and Looper reached a flat, forested hilltop. Considerably below her to the W was a valley that the route she hadn’t taken must have led to. Evidently that route would have been less of a climb. Off to the E, quite close by, was a slightly higher hill than the one Lupe was on.
Hah! We made it! That must be HP10332 over there, Looper.
And that enormous hill way off to the S is where we’re going, SPHP?
Yup! That’s North Breccia Cliffs (11,240 ft.)!
Not very cliffy from this direction, is it?
Nope. Think you’ve got this one now, Loopster! Made in the shade!
Well, not quite. Still a couple of miles to go, and who knew what the true summit might be like? Furthermore, there was a steep ridge that was in the way, jutting out to the E from the main N ridge. Happily, it looked like Lupe ought to be able to get past it without too much trouble.
Full of confidence, the American Dingo headed S.
In order to avoid losing too much elevation, Lupe stayed a little toward the W. She soon came across a decent trail originating from the valley the first route higher must have led to.
This new trail made it all a cinch! Heading straight toward the E ridge, it got the Carolina Dog around it, no sweat.
Continuing S beyond the ridgeline, Lupe traveled on fairly level terrain through a mix of forest and meadow. Before long, the trail faded away. Angling SW up a short open slope, Looper reached a huge meadow. Just E of the rugged N ridge, this meadow extended S all the way to the NW end of North Breccia Cliffs.
Smooth sailing all the way! Roaming at will, Lupe raced through the vast meadow sniffing everywhere. Even SPHP made rapid progress. Looper spotted a giant deer way down in the upper Holmes Cave Creek drainage to the E. She frolicked on a huge snowbank. Glorious fun! But toward the end, the super easy trek began to steepen.
Shortly before reaching the area above the climber’s chute, Lupe made it to the top of the N ridge. Wild-looking rock formations stood along the brink of a precipitous drop to the W. In the distance, she now had quite a view of the Tetons.
6-30-21, 3:25 PM – Certainly took long enough, but the Big Chicken route had worked! Near the NW end of North Breccia Cliffs’ upper plateau, Lupe reached a sweet meadow. This was the region that the climber’s chute that SPHP had been so desperate to avoid led up to. Naturally, the Carolina Dog had to take a look at what she’d missed out on.
Yowser! Can this be right, Loop? Is this it? The climber’s chute?
You tell me, SPHP! You’re the one with the map!
Yeah, I think it is. Has to be doesn’t it? But this can’t possibly be Class 2+, can it? I mean, just look at it! Ghastly!
Sloping ever more steeply, a grassy funnel-shaped region emptied into an abyss between two cliffs. The long, loose dirt and rock section of the climber’s chute wasn’t even visible beyond a lip where it all fell away.
I take it you’re not inclined to save us 4 miles by utilizing this shortcut on the way back, huh, SPHP?
You can bet your sweet curly tail on that, Dingo! I don’t even dare get close enough for a real look. Big Chicken route and Holmes Cave Trail No. 6057 all the way, both ways, no matter how long it takes!
A use trail angling SE up a steep slope got Lupe up onto North Breccia Cliffs’ enormous summit plateau. This plateau sloped gradually down to the N, the long line of SW facing cliffs still out of sight to the S along an edge more than 100 feet higher than where Loop came up. Beyond a gently rolling, treeless plain, the true summit was more than a mile away over at the SE end.
Crossing occasional big snowfields, Lupe headed straight for the summit.
Coming over a slight rise, Lupe beheld a wondrous sight! A whole herd of giant deers lay basking in the warm, end of June sunshine!
Out in the open like this, it was impossible to get by without spooking them. Soon the entire herd was racing away down the slope to the N, a splendid and most fascinating sight!
The giant deers vanished. Lupe continued on toward the summit, finally reaching the edge of the cliffs not too far from it. The view was terrific, but suddenly, worryingly, actually attaining the true summit didn’t seem quite so certain. The upper plateau was much narrower here, rapidly compressing to a ridgeline. Beyond an initial high point stood two more that looked potentially higher. Whether the ridge connected to the more distant ones without an impassable break wasn’t entirely clear.
Time was suddenly an issue, too. A long line of showers had developed off to the NW, not too far away. Showers were one thing, but lightning would be another. Distant rumbling spurred the Carolina Dog on.
Increasingly, the middle high point looked like the true summit. Better not be! It was still a way off, and the ridge Looper was on was already narrow enough. Good chance it wouldn’t be passable that far.
Lupe reached the first high point. Sort of. The situation turned out to be more complex than was previously evident. A cluster of 3 separate high spots were strung out along the ridge. The next 2 weren’t much farther, but both were clearly higher.
Getting to the middle spot was easy. A boulder decorated with orange lichens perched right along the edge of the fearsome cliffs was the tippy top here, but the last spot, an elevated platform only 25 feet farther SE was even higher.
The ridge narrowed on the way to it. No problem most of the way, but the last little stretch, a mere 10 feet, connecting to the platform looked dicey. Super narrow, it featured a cliff on one side and a steep slope that plunged toward a giant free fall on the other. How much room, if any might be up on that platform wasn’t clear. Might not even be a foot wide. Unnerved, SPHP sat down.
Hang on, Looper! Let’s take a break.
Keep going, SPHP! Let’s do this before the storm hits!
I don’t like it! We don’t even know if that’s the true summit yet. Let me check the topo map.
C’mon, SPHP! We know that it’s higher than where we are now!
Wait, Loop! Please, stay! I gotta calm down. Give me a few minutes.
A sudden single bolt of cloud to ground lightning off to the W added to SPHP’s anxiety. Total cake walk all this way, and now this! SPHP shared a half-melted chocolate coconut bar with the American Dingo, then had a look at the topo map.
Gah! Huge mistake! The map SPHP had printed out and brought along didn’t extend far enough to include either of the two more distant high points Lupe had seen on the way up. Even worse, what was shown was on such a large scale that details weren’t legible. Utterly useless here!
The line of showers to the NW was growing longer at both ends. Didn’t seem to have moved much, though. Raining hard now in some spots, but despite all the rumbling, so far only that one bolt of lightning had been seen striking the ground. Still, better get with it. Now or never!
Standing up, SPHP walked the remaining distance over to the near end of the scary section of the ridge leading to the platform.
Luck of the Dingo! Skinny enough, but it wasn’t nearly so bad as it had looked just a few feet from it. Moments later, Lupe was poised atop the platform!
Congratulations, Loopster! This is it! You’ve just reached the true summit of North Breccia Cliffs (11,240 ft.)!
Oh, joy! It was true! Lupe stood up on an L-shaped platform that was clearly the highest point around. Nothing else even in contention! The platform wasn’t all that large, but there was room enough to stroll around a bit.
The true summit of North Breccia Cliffs was an airy place! Fantastic views in all directions. Off to the SSE, Mount Sublette (11,060 ft.) was a funny-looking grassy ramp to nowhere launching skyward off the edge of a vast, grassy plain. The Wind River Range was visible far beyond it.
To the SE, Pinnacle Buttes (11,516 ft.) looked a lot more like a butte than a pinnacle.
Two Ocean Mountain (10,724 ft.) was due S, and Lost Lake could be seen off to the SW.
6-30-21, 5:13 PM – The showers drifted away to the E, taking the worst of the thunder along with them, but the weather remained questionable. Accordingly, Lupe didn’t stay up on the true summit for too long. Getting late in the day, anyway. Before leaving the summit region, Lupe checked out the snazzy boulder at the second highest spot.
Plenty of adventure ahead, with more to see on the long trek back! Shortly after departing, a fierce cool wind sprang up out of the N while Lupe was still up on the exposed ridge. Once down to the broader plain, she took shelter in a depression until it passed.
Although Loop didn’t hit all the high points along the way, the Carolina Dog stayed near the cliffs as she journeyed NW, enjoying the views from many scenic spots she hadn’t been to earlier. Before heading down to the meadow above the climber’s chute, she ventured way out to the NW end of the upper plateau.
Heading NE from the climber’s chute on the Big Chicken route, Lupe stayed up along the N ridgeline enjoying the views for quite a long way.
Once on the trail past the E ridge, Loop followed it into the valley she hadn’t explored on the way up. At the bottom of the steep descent at the end, SPHP built a little cairn, since this was probably the best route.
Lupe never did get to see Holmes Cave, or even Holmes Cave Lake again. Instead she wandered through confusing territory on a route meant to be a shortcut back down to the stream. She eventually got there, but it didn’t seem like any time or distance had been saved.
No worries! Holmes Cave Trail No. 6057 the rest of the way back now! Although she’d begged for rest breaks earlier, after crossing the stream, the American Dingo seemed energized by the fading light. Lupe led the way, often pausing to see if SPHP was still coming.
Night! A mile before the end, the flashlight had to come out. In silence, a weary march continued beneath shimmering stars.
Yet what a great day it had been! Sure hadn’t been any shortcut, quite the opposite, but the Big Chicken route had been a success! Lupe had made it safely up onto Wyoming’s fabulous North Breccia Cliffs, and that was all that mattered. (End, 10:37 PM, 46ºF)
Links:
Next Adventure Prior Adventure
The Much Shorter, More Popular Climber’s Route:
9-5-18 Trip Report & GPS Track by Garrett Carlson
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