Clarks Fork of the Yellowstone River – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

On & Off the Reef Creek Trail to Windy Mountain, Absaroka Range, Wyoming (6-28-21)

Days 6 & 7 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2021 Dingo Vacation to Wyoming!

6-27-21, 9:20 AM, at a pullout along Chief Joseph Scenic Highway No. 296 –

Is that Windy Mountain (10,262 ft.)?

SPHP consulted the topo map.

No, can’t be. It’s too close to the highway, Loop. Don’t think we can see Windy Mountain from here. Probably Peak 9352. Those must be the Cathedral Cliffs below it. Keep an eye out for the Reef Creek Picnic Area when we hit the highway again. Can’t be much farther.

**Peak 9352** (Center) and the **Cathedral Cliffs** (R) from Chief Joseph Scenic Highway. Photo looks SW.

That was for sure. The RAV4 had barely gotten back onto the highway when a sign appeared on the L (S) side of the road.

There it is, SPHP! Reef Creek Picnic Area!

SPHP pulled into a paved semicircular drive. Lupe hopped out for a look around. The Reef Creek Picnic Area was small. Several picnic tables tucked back in among the trees and a restroom seemed to be about it.

At the Reef Creek Picnic Area. Photo looks NW.

Hmm. Supposed to be a trail here, Looper. See if you can find it. Might not be used much, since this is the long way to Windy Mountain.

Are you sure the trail still exists, SPHP?

No, not at all. Just hoping it does.

A search commenced. No luck, at first, but then there it was! 100 feet from the parking lot, well beyond a picnic table toward the SW, a big tree bore a small new sign. All it said was “Trail”. Next to the tree, a faint path disappeared into the forest.

This must be it, Loop! Reef Creek Trail No. 605!

And that was that. Reconnaissance complete! After two big climbs in two days, the American Dingo had the rest of the day off. Fortuitously, a favorite spot along the Clarks Fork of the Yellowstone River just off Beartooth Highway No. 212 was only a 30 minute drive away. Lupe passed the rest of the day peacefully along the gorgeous river with its stunning view of Pilot Peak (11,699 ft.) and Index Peak (11,240 ft.).

Wading in the **Clarks Fork of the Yellowstone River**. Photo looks NW.

The pullout along Beartooth Hwy No. 212. **Mount Jim Smith** **(10,312 ft.)** (L of Center). Photo looks S.

**Pilot Peak** (Center) and Index Peak (R). Photo looks NW.

Diligently preparing for Windy Mountain tomorrow.

6-28-21, 7:55 AM, Reef Creek Picnic Area – All rested up, the Carolina Dog once again stood by the big tree with the “Trail” sign at the start of Reef Creek Trail No. 605. As soon as SPHP was ready, she set out. The trail climbed steadily, winding up a fairly aggressive forested slope devoid of any distant views. The good news was that although this route appeared infrequently traveled, the trail was surprisingly easy to follow.

At the start of Reef Creek Trail No. 605.

20 minutes brought Lupe to a broad bench of more open forest where the trail leveled out. For a little way, the trail ran ENE along the flat ground before gradually turning SE and beginning to climb again.

Up on the broad, flat bench. Photo looks ENE.

Half an hour and the rate of climb diminished. Lupe came to a clearing providing first views of the surrounding territory. She’d already made a lot of progress, gaining close to 800 feet of elevation. Of course, she still had a very long way to go, but so far everything was going as expected. To the SW, Looper could now see the big ridge SE of HP8580. No. 605 would take her around that ridge.

First views after a considerable climb. Photo looks NE.

Initial glimpse of **HP8580** (Center). Photo looks SW.

Soon Reef Creek could be heard, although not seen, in a valley to the E. Lupe came to a large, flat meadow. Looked like super easy terrain, but the American Dingo had barely started across it, when the bright green meadow proved to be soft and wet. No. 605 vanished in a mucky marsh.

At the start of what proved to be a marsh. Reef Creek Trail No. 605 was last seen heading straight into it. **Russell Peak (9,186 ft.)** (L). Photo looks SE.

Not anxious to slog through the muck, SPHP looked around. Nearby, an open lane wide enough to be a road headed WSW through the forest. Maybe the trail actually went that way for a bit? Lupe followed the dry lane, but when it didn’t turn back to the SE within a few minutes, SPHP realized this route had to be a mistake.

Abandoning the lane, Lupe turned SE, roaming higher through a region of scattered pines that led to another meadow that eventually proved to be even boggier. The American Dingo got as far as a small stream that ran through the bog, but did not cross it. Instead, Looper followed the stream SW straight up the slope, all the way to a spring gushing out of the mountain amid a luxuriant display of bluebells.

Standing in the tiny stream that ran through the upper marsh. Photo looks SW.

Near the bluebells where the spring gushed out of the mountain. Photo looks SSE.

On the way up to the spring, it looked like Loopster had gained so much elevation that she ought to be able to simply climb up and over the ridge SE of HP8580 without too much trouble. If successful, this would be a shortcut, eventually allowing her to return to Reef Creek Trail No. 605 down in the valley on the far side of the ridge.

Encouraged by SPHP, Lupe started up the steep slope above the spring, but the climb quickly turned into a tough slog. This region had burned some years ago. Young trees crowded a jumble of deadfall. Naturally, the slope continued much farther than it had appeared from below.

*Ya know, SPHP! Maybe we should have just slogged through a little muck and found the trail!*

The rate of climb finally began to diminish. Once past the burnt area, most of the deadfall vanished. The worst was over. Passing through a beautiful mature forest, Lupe reached the crest of the ridge and crossed over. On the other side, she came to a clearing full of wildflowers with a view of the Reef Creek valley ahead.

Past the deadfall, getting close to the top of the ridge. Photo looks SSW.

**Reef Creek valley** from the **ridge SE of HP8580**. Photo looks SW.

During a rest break among the flowers, SPHP made a terrible discovery.

Loopster! I’ve lost our map! I don’t have it on me!

Think, SPHP! When was the last time you definitely did have it?

Above the spring, back at a huge standing dead tree we stopped at for a quick breather. I remember looking at it.

Maybe you left the map there, then? That tree shouldn’t be hard to find. Want to go back?

Eh! I don’t know. Hate to go all that way. The map might have fallen out of my pocket somewhere else. Can probably make do without it. I looked at it quite a few times on the way up, and the route isn’t that tricky.

Really? Are you sure that’s wise, SPHP?

Wise? Maybe not, but I suspect we’ll be fine. All we have to do is get back to Trail No. 605 down in the valley ahead of us, and follow it to No. 604, which comes up from Sunlight Basin. No. 604 will get us the rest of the way to the summit. Trails all the way! What could go wrong?

That did sound simple enough, but once the break at the wildflower clearing was over, SPHP proposed a new plan. Traveling some distance up the Reef Creek valley, No. 605 would eventually head up onto this same long ridge that HP8580 was part of. Why lose 200 feet of elevation going down into the valley when Lupe could simply follow the ridge?

Expressing no reservations over this change, the cooperative Carolina Dog struck out heading W along a game trail. Only minor elevation loss was incurred as Lupe traversed the forested slope S of HP8580, putting her into position for a short climb to the saddle between it and HP8462.

**SW of HP8580** heading for the **saddle** (L) leading to **HP8462**. Photo looks WNW.

Upon reaching the saddle, HP8462, most of which had burned, was in sight immediately to the SW. HP8462 consisted of two hills each capped by a layer of white rock. Lupe climbed to the top of the lower hill, but SPHP feared she might cliff out on the far side if she went all the way to the top of the higher one. Instead, she attempted the same trick used at HP8580, trying to traverse the slope immediately E of the summit.

This time the traverse didn’t work as well. Lupe wound up on a very steep slope just below the summit’s capstone. SPHP’s progress was slow on the loose rock. Worse yet, it soon became apparent that once beyond HP8462 Loop faced a substantial drop to the next saddle along the ridge followed by a big climb up to HP8706.

On the very steep slope just **E of HP8462‘s capstone** (R). Photo looks SW.

Took a while to get down to the next saddle. By then, SPHP had had a change of heart.

This business of trying to stay up on the ridge isn’t working out Looper. Too much up and down along the way. Never should have tried it. I hereby christen HP8462 “Dum-dum Point”!

I knew you’d figure it out sooner or later, SPHP! Ready to head down into the Reef Creek valley to pick up the trail before we waste any more time losing and regaining the same old elevation over and over again?

Absolutely, let’s do it!

Beyond **HP8462** starting down into the valley. **Windy Mountain** (Center). Photo looks SSW.

Instead of losing a mere 200 feet like she could have earlier on, Lupe lost more like 340 feet of elevation from Dum-dum Point on the way down into the Reef Creek valley. Close to the bottom was a huge field full of purplish pink wildflowers. Trail No. 605 did not pass through this field, but Lupe ran into it 100 feet after entering the forest at the lower end.

Crossing the huge field leading down to the **Reef Creek valley**. Photo looks S.

Glancing back at **Dum-dum Point** (**HP8462**) (Center). **HP8580** (R). Photo looks N.

Finally back on Reef Creek Trail No. 605 again! Photo looks SW.

All that wandering around traversing slopes and trying to stay up on the ridge had been a time and energy-consuming waste, but once back on Trail No. 605 everything seemed fantabulous again. The only thing Lupe had to do now was stick with the trail the rest of the way.

SPHP remembered from the topo map that No. 605 would eventually split off to the R from a route that continued farther up the Reef Creek valley. Make that turn, and Loopster was as good as up on Windy Mountain!

No. 605 was level where the Carolina Dog reached it, but soon started gaining elevation as she followed it up the valley. Except for occasional small meadows where the trail tended to fade, this whole region was forested. SPHP watched for the turn where No. 605 took off to start its climb out of the valley. Progress was good, but the trail went on and on, and the intersection did not appear.

After 40 minutes, the trail reached Reef Creek at a point where a fallen log created a small waterfall. Lupe cooled her paws down and helped herself to a drink.

**Reef Creek** where Trail No. 605 first reached it.

The trail followed the NW side of the creek for a while, before crossing it at a non-obvious point. However, this crossing was soon figured out. Lupe doubled back to it when the trail vanished. After leaping over to the SE side, Loop entered a long meadow where the trail faded away. She found it again at the far end shortly before the trail crossed back over to the NW bank.

On the NW bank (wrong side!) just past the first creek crossing. Photo looks SW.

By now, SPHP realized that the junction where No. 605 left the valley to climb up onto the huge ridge to the W must have been missed. However, the pass at the upper end of the valley was now sometimes seen ahead. No. 605 was supposed cross that saddle as the big ridge swept around to the E toward Windy Mountain. Figuring Looper might as well attempt to intercept No. 605 at the pass, SPHP encouraged her to keep following Reef Creek toward it.

She did, but the trail began to fade. The valley gradually narrowed, and Reef Creek became a trickle. Lupe started coming to deep snow drifts among a dense pine forest. The drifts hid what remained of the trail. They held the Dingo’s weight, but not SPHP’s. The pass wasn’t all that much farther, but getting to it was going to take forever and a day.

Continuing up **Reef Creek.** Photo looks SSW.

On the snowdrifts at the end of the valley trek. Photo looks SSW.

Peering through open forest up a steep slope on the E side of the valley, a big grassy clearing could be seen about 100 feet higher. It looked equally steep, but if Lupe could get up there, maybe she could eventually get to Windy Mountain that way? Worth a shot.

SPHP stopped repeatedly to gasp for air. At times the slope seemed on the verge of becoming almost scary steep, but Lupe managed to reach the grassy clearing. High above, at the upper end, was a standing white forest of dead trees, with new growth visible among the skeletons.

As Lupe continued higher, views of the Reef Creek valley and the ridge to the W where Trail No. 605 ought to be improved rapidly. After a while, she could see over the lower part of the ridge.

Far to the N, snow-capped peaks along the spine of the Beartooths were visible. Sky Pilot Mountain (12,047 ft.), which the American Dingo had climbed in 2020 after failing to get to Castle Mountain (12,612 ft.) with mountaineering friend Jobe Wymore, was in sight!

On the grassy slope. **Trail No. 605 ridge** (L). **Peak 9532** (Center). Photo looks N.

On the horizon: **Snowbank Mountain (12,084 ft.)** (far L), **Salo Mountain (12,250 ft.)** (L), **Castle Rock Mountain (12,401 ft.) & Castle Rock Spire (12,450 ft.)** (Center), **Castle Mountain (12,612 ft.)** (R of Center) and **Sky Pilot Mountain (12,047 ft.)** (R). **Beartooth Butte (10,514 ft.)** (R) in the foreground. Photo looks N with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

By the time Lupe reached the both dead and new growth forest, the slope wasn’t quite as steep. SPHP’s rate of ascent improved slightly, as Lupe roamed among the trees. Off to the R (SW) was another steep slope featuring a long snowbank. To the NW was a view of an intriguing peak that must have been Hurricane Mesa (11,064 ft.).

The next ridge or slope to the SW with its long snowbank. Photo looks SW.

**Hurricane Mesa** (Center). Photo looks NW with help from the telephoto lens.

800 feet above where she’d left Reef Creek, Lupe reached a small flat ridge that was out in the open. The pass she had been trying to get to earlier was now visible far below off to the SW. HP9841, one of Windy Mountain’s subpeaks, was off to the ENE, and appeared to be a mere hill not an awful lot higher than where the American Dingo was now.

Glancing back from the flat ridge. **Reef Creek valley** (Center) and **Peak 9352** (L). **Beartooth Mountains** on the horizon. Photo looks NNE.

Looking down on the pass (Center) at the upper end of the Reef Creek valley. Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.

**HP9841** (Center), a subpeak N of Windy Mountain. Photo looks ENE.

The view ahead was most encouraging! The ridge Loop was on led to a forest, but it appeared that some kind of a top was just beyond it.

Looking ahead from the flat part of the ridge. Photo looks SSW.

Climbing to and through the next forest, Lupe soon emerged on open ground along the upper NE slopes of HP9974. No need to go to the top of this barren hill, for Windy Mountain (10,262 ft.) was directly ahead, the summit still some 300 feet higher somewhere at the far end of a vast grassy slope that rose steadily SSE for 0.67 mile.

**Windy Mountain** from close to **HP9974**. Photo looks SSE.

As Lupe headed up the grassy plain, SPHP gloated.

Hah! Told you we’d make it, Looper! Map or no map!

True enough, SPHP. But for a mountain with a trail all the way to the top, we’ve sure done a lot of off-trail thrashing around in tedious terrain.

Oh, don’t worry about that now! Over and done with! Before you know it, we’ll be seeing the world from the glorious summit of Windy Mountain! On the return we can learn from our mistakes cruising down the trail all the way back to the RAV4. Easy squeezy!

Our mistakes, SPHP?

Well, sort of. We’re a team, aren’t we?

Partway up, looking back at **HP9974** (Center). **Hurricane Mesa** (L). **Pilot & Index Peaks** (R) in the distance. Photo looks NW.

Near the top, a line of widely separated tall poles along Trail No. 604 led toward the summit. Loopster was already almost there by the time she reached them. Windy Mountain’s summit region proved to be a large flat expanse, sparsely vegetated, sloping gently to the N, but bordered by cliffs all along the S edge.

No trees, bushes, large rocks, or other obstacles were present to obstruct the sweeping views in all directions. Four concrete pylons marked the corners of a now absent structure, and near them stood a 10 foot tall wooden cross. One of the pylons featured a mailbox marked “Big Windy Mountain Elev 10,262 ft.”

Approaching the summit. Photo looks SSE.

Surveying the fabulous view of **Sunlight Basin**. **Robbers Roost (12,040 ft.)** (Center) and **Trout Peak (12,244 ft.)** (R of Center) on the horizon. Photo looks SSE.

Lupe and SPHP were both ready for a long break. A spot was chosen along the SE lip of the mountain 12 feet from a survey benchmark. Shaking the Carolina Dog’s paw, SPHP congratulated Loopster on her successful, if unorthodox, ascent of Windy Mountain.

Basking in glory along the SE edge. Survey benchmark (lower L). Photo looks SSW with help from the telephoto lens.

**Peak 9841** (Center) in front of the canyon of the Clarks Fork of the Yellowstone River. Photo looks NNE.

For a long time neither Lupe nor SPHP stirred. Conditions were perfect! Clear, calm, mid 70’s ºF. Magnificent views all around! Eventually it was time to get up, though, to enter Lupe’s name in the registry contained in the mailbox, move around a bit, and take some photos.

The American Dingo generally cooperated, but tended to slink away to the shade of the concrete pylons during any lulls in the action. Not a good thing, since there was a fair amount of broken glass near them. Fortunately, no tragedy ensued.

Many beautiful peaks were in sight. SPHP knew only a few. Far to the SE, Heart Mountain (8,123 ft.) was visible beyond Dead Indian Pass. Robbers Roost (12,040 ft.) and Trout Peak (12,244 ft.) were to the S. Almost none of the splendid mountains to the SW or W were familiar.

Chief Joseph Scenic Hwy zig-zags up to **Dead Indian Pass** (Center). **Heart Mountain** (R). Photo looks SE.

**Sunlight Basin** from Windy Mountain. **Trout Peak** (R). Photo looks SSE.

**Robbers Roost** (L), **Trout Peak** (Center). Photo looks S with help from the telephoto lens.

Hanging out in the shade of a pylon. Photo looks SW.

**Indian Peak (10,923 ft.)** (R). Photo looks WSW.

Hurricane Mesa (11,064 ft.) and more distant Pilot Peak (11,699 ft.) and Index Peak (11,240 ft.) were all to the NW.

**Indian Peak** (L) and **Hurricane Mesa** (R). Photo looks W.

**Hurricane Mesa** (L). **Pilot & Index Peaks** (R). Photo looks NW.

Far to the N, many grand peaks were on display strung out along the spine of the Beartooth Mountains. Glacier Peak (12,320 ft.), Mount Villard (12,345 ft.), Tempest Mountain (12,469 ft.) and Mount Peal (12,409 ft.) were all recognizable near Granite Peak (12,799 ft.), Montana’s highest mountain. Lupe had been to Tempest Mountain.

**Glacier Peak** (far L), **Mount Villard** (L), **Granite Peak** (Center), **Tempest Mountain** (R), and **Mount Peel** (far R) all in Montana. Photo looks NNW with help from the telephoto lens.

Almost due N were Snowbank Mountain (12,084 ft.), Salo Mountain (12,250 ft.), Castle Rock Mountain (12,401 ft.), Castle Rock Spire (12,450 ft.), Castle Mountain (12,612 ft.) and Sky Pilot Mountain, (12,047 ft.) with Beartooth Butte (10,514 ft.) in the foreground.

**Summit Mountain** (far L), **Snowbank Mountain** (L), **Salo Mountain** (Center), **Castle Rock Mountain & Castle Rock Spire** (R of Center), **Castle Mountain** (R), **Sky Pilot Mountain** (far R) with **Beartooth Butte** in the foreground. Photo looks N with help from the telephoto lens.

So much to see! Mountain glory in all directions, but time waits for no Dingo. 75 minutes after arriving, Lupe stood again near the old wooden cross, the mighty Beartooths of Montana arrayed far beyond her. A final look, and the inevitable descent began.

It all went swimmingly at first, just as SPHP had said it would. Taking Windy Mountain Trail No. 604, the short way up from Sunlight Basin, Lupe followed it down to the junction with Reef Creek Trail No. 605.

At the junction of trails No. 604 & 605. Photo looks S.

No. 605 finally got Lupe to the pass at the upper end of the Reef Creek valley SPHP hadn’t been able to make it to from below. From here, the trail curved N following the ridge W of the Reef Creek valley, most of the time staying at or near the crest.

Loopster continued to enjoy spectacular views, and got to see Windy Mountain from a new perspective, including much of the route across the valley she had traveled during her ascent. Despite occasional minor uphill stretches along the big ridge, progress was rapid.

Approaching the pass (L) at the upper end of the **Reef Creek valley** (R). Photo looks N.

**Hunter Peak (9,034 ft.)** (L) from the big ridge. Photo looks NNW.

**Windy Peak**. Lupe had gone up the slope seen directly beyond her. Photo looks SSE.

All went well until Lupe started getting close to Peak 9352. The first sign of trouble began when she reached a level, but narrow section of the ridge leading to it. This low point, slightly over 9,000 feet, seemed like a logical place for No. 605 to leave the ridge and start descending into the Reef Creek valley, but instead the trail continued NNE all the way across this section and started to climb.

Approaching **HP9352** (Center). Photo looks NNE.

Lupe kept going, gaining 100 feet before reaching a little dip. Here the trail simply vanished. No sign of it continuing on toward Peak 9352, or down the steep forested slope leading into the Reef Creek valley.

Oh joy! What now, SPHP?

Not sure, Loop. We’ve come a long way. I’ve been expecting we’d reach wherever No. 605 heads down into the Reef Creek valley for a while now, but this doesn’t seem to be the place.

If only we had a map, SPHP! We’d know what to do then, or at least where to look!

Oh, hush, sarcastic Dingo! We just need to find a decent route down into the valley. We’ll be fine!

Hoping the trail would reappear, SPHP encouraged the American Dingo to keep following the ridge. That meant another climb of more than 150 feet before reaching a second flat section of the ridgeline. Peak 9352 was now directly ahead, and not very far away. Still no sign of the trail, though. Shadows were lengthening. A sense of uneasiness grew.

A final look at **Windy Mountain** from 9,300 ft. **SSW of Peak 9352**. Photo looks S.

Peak 9352 had two high points, the closer one apparently being the true summit. Lupe passed within 40 feet of the top on a traverse toward the lower point, from which the ridge presumably went on.

The Carolina Dog never completed this traverse. Looking down the slope leading into the Reef Creek valley, an open channel went between two walls of rock. Steep, but definitely doable without much trouble.

Let’s go that way, Looper!

The channel went fine, but the steep descent continued far below it. In a gloomy forest, Lupe soon found herself trapped within an increasingly rough and narrow drainage. Cliffing out was a real possibility, as a slow, anxious descent went on and on.

Fortunately, there always seemed to be a way past each pinch point. At last, another steep drainage joined in from the R. Amid a jumble of rock and deadfall, the rate of descent soon diminished. Suddenly, there it was! No. 605!

Great work, Loopster! You found it!

Even making fast tracks, it took a surprisingly long time to reach the junction with the trail Lupe had followed so far up Reef Creek. It was easy to see why this turn had been missed earlier in the day. Coming up the valley, No. 605 had split off making a hard R. There was a sign up on a tree, but it was situated along No. 605 after the turn, inconspicuous from the valley route.

The sun was still up, but time was getting to be of the essence, since SPHP hoped to get through the marsh, still miles away, before dark. Wasting no time at the junction, Lupe headed NE following No. 605 down the valley.

Confidence was high, progress excellent, but Looper’s Windy Mountain adventure wasn’t over yet. Beyond where Lupe had picked up No. 605 after the Dum-Dum Point fiasco, the Carolina Dog reached a stretch of trail she hadn’t been on before. For a long way it was nearly flat.

Approaching the area near the end of USFS Road No. 115, a much higher starting point for Windy Mountain than the picnic ground, Lupe came to open territory. Staying toward the L, she passed 4 or 5 new trail signs. None said anything more than “Trail”. Beyond these signs No. 605 began curving E, then faded away in a big meadow. Going straight eventually put Loopster on it again.

Reef Creek could now be seen down in a deep ravine on the R (S). Along the upper edge, the trail began a gradual descent. Suddenly there was motion on the slope to the N! A dark form, 200 feet away.

Loop, a bear!

In an instant, Lupe locked gazes with a medium-sized black bear. One bark, and the bear took off, running for its life.

Must have tangled with a Carolina Dog before, aye?

When you’re at the top of the food chain, you get a lot of respect, SPHP.

Evidently.

0.67 mile SE of HP8580, Reed Creek Trail No. 605 rounded the ridge Lupe had climbed over earlier in the day and turned N. The sun was down, and light was fading when it vanished into the marsh.

The marshy region proved much larger than anticipated. SPHP tried staying high, toward the L (NW) to get around it, but the maneuver soon proved futile. Unfazed, Lupe splish-splashed right on through, while SPHP’s boots (new ones, of course!) got immersed in muck. Took a while to slog through it all to dry ground.

Dusk was closing in as Looper once again searched for the trail. Down, down, mostly through open lanes between stands of conifers, but in the twilight nothing looked familiar. Finally, Lupe came to a broad bench.

Oh, I remember this, Loop! The trail leaves this bench somewhere off to the W. Shouldn’t be too far. C’mon! Find that spot and we’ve got it made in the shade!

That’s great, SPHP! Much shadier, and it’ll be pitch black!

Hurrying W toward the last light, the trail did not appear. Inexplicably, the flat bench went on and on.

An end finally came. Lupe stood at the brink of a cliff. This was it. No way forward. Dimly, the cliff could be seen stretching unbroken back to the E for a long way. The dark terrain to the N all looked hundreds of feet lower. A sudden shock as the truth sank in.

Loop, this isn’t the same bench! It’s down there! We’re way too high!

Back E then, SPHP?

Yeah! Fast as we can. All the way past these cliffs.

Night! The little flashlight had to come out. Loopster was so far E that Reef Creek could be heard shortly before a small ravine led down to the N. Was this the way? Hard to tell. Exploring it a little lower the ravine broadened out. Yes, there did seem to be a faint path.

Reef Creek Trail No. 605! Lupe was on it again. No worries now.

Windy Mountain (10,262 ft.), what a day! Back at the RAV4, 15 hours after departure, an exhausted Carolina Dog closed her eyes, twitching paws revealing that she was already setting off for new adventures in Dingo Dreamland. (End 10:52 PM, 55ºF)

**Windy Mountain**, Absaroka Range, Wyoming 6-28-21

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The Year of Perfect Vision Strikes Again! (9-5-20 to 9-9-20)

Days 4-8 of Lupe’s 4th Summer of 2020 Dingo Vacation to Montana & Wyoming!

9-5-20, 9:32 AM, Pass 10140, Beartooth Mountains, Montana – For once, SPHP had been the one to wake up early. After the American Dingo’s witching hour return from a hugely successful journey to the Froze to Death Plateau and Tempest Mountain yesterday, Lupe was the one still zonked in the tiny house.

As SPHP packed for the journey back to the West Rosebud trailhead, Looper snoozed as long as she could. Not until a bee flew into the tiny house did she decide to emerge to lay on the grass, permitting SPHP to roll up her sleeping bag and begin disassembly, a task soon completed.

At **Pass 10140**. **Mount Wood (12,660 ft.)** (L). Photo looks NW.

A final contemplation of Froze to Death Mountain (11,760 ft.), where she’d been only yesterday, and Lupe set out across the broad plain of Pass 10140. Picking up Phantom Creek trail No. 17, she started the long trek down to Mystic Lake.

*Farewell, **Froze to Death Mountain** (Center)!* Photo looks SW.

About to head down Phantom Creek trail No. 17. Photo looks WNW.

Saturday, first day of Labor Day weekend! The weather was perfect, the single track trail in great condition, and the scenery stupendous! Going down was so much faster and easier than coming up had been. Upon reaching the trees, Lupe kept an eye out for squirrels. SPHP was in a cheery mood, and often spoke to hikers on their way up.

By the time Loop made it Mystic Lake, she’d passed 18 people intent upon climbing Granite Peak (12,799 ft.), the Montana state high point.

Scenic Phantom Creek trail No. 17. Photo looks SW.

9-5-20, 12:16 PM, Mystic Lake – Mystic Lake was busy! Lots of people around and more arriving all the time. And why not? What a jewel!

Loop and SPHP found a relatively quiet spot along the S shore. No real rush to get back to the West Rosebud trailhead. For a serene half hour, Lupe rested next to Mystic Lake, enjoying a cool breeze while watching the waves roll in. SPHP sat nearby, soaking a couple of sore paws in the Oh, so refreshing! water.

**Mystic Lake** in the Beartooth Mountains! A new favorite place! Photo looks WNW.

SPHP’s paws comfortably numb, the Carolina Dog hit West Rosebud trail No. 19. Before heading through the gap on top of the wall of rock E of the lake, Lupe paused for a final look. What a gorgeous mountain lake! Easily accessible, too! Only 3 miles and 1,000 feet of elevation gain from the West Rosebud trailhead.

**Mystic Lake**, Beartooth Mountains. Photo looks WSW.

*Exquisite! What a setting!* Photo looks WSW.

Mystic Lake was no big secret. Hordes of people were coming up the West Rosebud trail. Many canines to sniff with, too! Lots of kids and people with fishing gear. Everyone was in fine spirits. The march down Trail No. 19 was rockier than SPHP remembered, but it all went fast.

9-5-20, 3:00 PM, 90ºF, West Rosebud trailhead – Hoo-eee! Summer ain’t over yet! Baking hot down here! SPHP had noticed a picnic area during the drive in 3 days ago some miles back along the washboardy road to the trailhead. Once all the gear got stashed in the G6, Lupe enjoyed some AC on the slow, bumpy ride to it.

Although everywhere else was overrun with people, the picnic ground was empty. Good spot to spend the rest of the day! West Rosebud creek, a lovely stream back up at the trail, was a full-fledged river here. Beef stew, rest, relaxation! Despite 91ºF heat, Lupe refused to leave her pink blankie in the G6. SPHP rolled all the windows completely down, and gave her plenty of food and water.

Crunching away, the American Dingo complained between mouthfuls.

I can’t believe it, SPHP! You really did have a bag of Fritos in the G6!

Told ya!

Why didn’t you bring them with when we went into the mountains? I sure could have used them to entice those salt-starved mountain goats!

Never really considered that angle, Loop. Besides, Fritos don’t travel well jammed into a backpack. All we would have gotten up there with would have been some salty roasted corn flour.

Still would have worked, SPHP! Those goats were desperate! They lick pissed-on rocks for salt! Do you really think they would be too fastidious to munch a little corn flour?

OK, OK! My bad! Next time, alright, Looper? Can we just forget it?

Oh, I suppose. Too late now, anyway! Any more Fritos left? Pass me some more, would ya? And fill my water bowl again, too, please.

9-6-20, 6:40 AM, West Rosebud trailhead overflow parking – The sun was just rising. SPHP immediately saw how lucky Lupe had been the past several days. 2020, the Year of Perfect Vision, had struck again! Smoke of distant forest fires filled the air, obscuring the Beartooths. Deja vu! Getting to be a tiresome theme, but one likely to keep repeating unless the W got some serious rain. Fat chance of that this time of year!

A rest and positioning day, anyway. The Carolina Dog was done here. Smoky or not, no sense in sticking around. Loopster had a grand time barking at cows and horses as the G6 went on the prowl, searching for the next big adventure. Reasonably clear skies were now the primary criteria.

9-6-20, 9:47 AM, Clarks Fork of the Yellowstone River, Hwy 120 – Driven out of Montana by the haze, Lupe stood on the bank of the Clarks Fork of the Yellowstone River shortly after entering Wyoming.

This was the same river she had a favorite camping spot next to with a view of Pilot Peak (11,699 ft.) high in the Beartooths, E of Yellowstone National Park. Up there, it was a lively mountain stream with rapids and a chilly swimming hole, just on the verge of becoming large enough to be worthy of the designation “river”. Down here in the sagebrush desert, the Clarks Fork was much wider, still rippling along, but also far more placid and ordinary.

Along the **Clarks Fork of the Yellowstone River**. Photo looks SE.

Wyoming Hwy No. 120 bridge 8 or 9 miles S of the Montana border. Photo looks N.

The Edelweiss Bar & Cafe, along with its mostly deserted campground and picnic area, was just a quick sniffing stop, a chance to get out and stretch. Quiet today, but once upon a time this had been an exciting spot, an integral part of one of those heroic, dramatic events so common in the tragic history of the world.

In 1877, the Nez Perce tribe under Chief Joseph made a daring, desperate escape from the U.S. Army in this area. Sadly, their success did not last. The army caught up with them shortly before they reached the Canadian border, where they’d hope to join up with Sitting Bull’s band of Sioux. A series of plaques at the bar’s parking lot related the story.

Less than a mile SW, Hwy 120 went over the Clarks Fork a second time. A primitive dirt road on the R (NW) provided a less developed access point. Why not? Lupe had all day. SPHP nursed the G6 along a rutty road before finding a spot to stash it near the river.

The **Clarks Fork of the Yellowstone** is running a little low, but after all, it is September! Would look a lot different during the spring runoff from the Beartooths!

*Looks like Wyoming to me! See the **Beartooths** on the horizon? No? They’re in the haze.*

The only thing clear about the Beartooths, which still ought to have been easily visible from here, was that they were much too smoky to entertain the notion of remaining anywhere in the general area.

Out on the sagebrush plains of Wyoming, Lupe kept a close watch as SPHP drove S, but even cattle were scarce. Lacking entertainment, the Carolina Dog’s eyes grew heavy. Soon she was snoozing in AC’d comfort as the miles rolled by and temperature soared.

9-6-20, 1:24 PM, Wind River Canyon, Hwy 20/789, S of Thermopolis – Not much of a water Dingo, Lupe preferred to rest on the bank of the Wind River while watching SPHP swim, but SPHP had carted her out to the white rock she sat on now for a photo. She didn’t know it yet, but there wasn’t going to be a free ride back to shore. Looper was going to have to wade, SPHP’s diabolical plot to force her to get thoroughly cooled off, but she wouldn’t mind. In fact, since it wasn’t deep, she’d linger a minute or two, enjoying the cool water.

*Oh, the **Wind River Canyon** is beautiful! Not quite so smoky, either! Maybe we’re headed the right way?*

SPHP had just enjoyed a refreshing half hour swim in Rattler Whirlpool, an enormous eddy in the Wind River with a gentle current along the near bank that consistently flowed upstream, greatly reducing any prospect of being swept down river.

This was the second time Lupe had been here this summer. SPHP had gone swimming in this exact same giant eddy back in July, too, but the name “Rattler Whirlpool” was a new one. No one had been here when Loop first arrived today, but a Jeep had soon come down the access road, parking 40 feet away. Whoever was in it stayed inside for a while, then suddenly leapt out to shout the news that there was a rattlesnake over there and to be careful, before leaping back in and driving off.

Neither Loop nor SPHP saw the rattler before walking back up to the G6. Probably for the best.

9-6-20, 4:00 PM, 90ºF, Lander city park – Nearly a week into September, and still 90ºF! Actually a little cooler now than it had been earlier. 93ºF on the way over from Riverton! There’d been one more stop, a brief one to examine a herd of wild horses racing through the desert beneath a stormy sky – a mural painted on the Hudson town hall.

Snazzy mural on the side of the Hudson, Wyoming town hall.

Like Rattler Whirlpool, Lupe had been here before, too, this summer. At the S end of 3rd Street right across from the beautiful Middle Popo Agie River, Lander city park was awesome! Free camping on a soft green lawn beneath shady old cottonwoods.

The park was going to be home for the evening. Normally, small streams flow in a couple of ditches running through the park, but they were bone dry now. A stroll over to the Middle Popo Agie River revealed that it was almost gone as well, a trickling remnant of its normal self. Shocking! Lupe had never seen the Popo Agie so low before. Fortunately, that didn’t interfere with a thrilling evening of squirrel watching.

Riveting times on the soft green lawn of Lander city park.

Unfortunately, still pretty smoky out. Maybe tomorrow would bring good news on that front? SPHP tried to be optimistic, but, in truth, felt mighty skeptical. Attempts to evade smoke hadn’t worked on Looper’s last Dingo Vacation. There wasn’t much reason to believe they would pan out this time around, either.

Labor Day, 9-7-20, 11:56 AM, Lander city park – Actually got chilly last night. Breezy and definitely cooler this morning. Apparently not going to be another scorcher. Encouragingly, not quite so smoky either! After walks through the park, Lupe had spent the morning dozing whenever there was a lull in the squirrel watching action.

Hey, Loopster!

Got the trip journal caught up. About ready for the next big adventure?

Sure! Where we going, SPHP?

Thinking we’ll head up to the trailhead for Atlantic Peak (12,490 ft.) here in the Wind River Range. We were going to climb it back in July, but the access road was closed due to road construction, remember? The repairs were supposed to wrap up back on August 20th. Ought to be open by now.

Sounds good! Are we leaving right away?

Yeah, in just a few minutes. Need to make a quick stop at Safeway to pick up some supplies before we leave town.

Heading SE out of Lander on Hwy 287/28, Lupe was just getting psyched up for some much anticipated barking at cows and horses, when SPHP made a sudden U-turn.

Forget something, SPHP?

No. Did you see that big lighted sign next to the road, Loop?

Umm. Can’t say that I did. Wasn’t paying much attention to signs. What about it?

It was unbelievable! Gotta take another look. Maybe I read it wrong?

Making another U-turn, SPHP drove slowly past the sign again. No doubt about it. Alternating with a “High Fire Danger” message was another one saying “Heavy snow, poor visibility, 9PM to 6PM Tuesday”.

“9PM to 6PM Tuesday”! That must mean they’re expecting this storm to hit at 9PM on Monday, Loop.

Today is Monday, isn’t it, SPHP?

Yeah, it’s Labor Day, and Labor Day is always on a Monday.

How can that sign possibly be right, SPHP? Not even 8 hours until 9PM right now, and it’s 77ºF!

I don’t know. A blizzard tonight? Seems impossible. Maybe the highway department is just testing the sign? It was 93ºF only yesterday!

Just keep going, SPHP. Maybe another sign will say something different?

Loopster was right! Along Hwy 28 on the way up into the SE end of the Wind River Range, more lighted signs appeared. All bore exactly the same message, different from the first sign’s message. Unfortunately, not much different.

What now, indeed?

Sheesh! The Year of Perfect Vision strikes again! Sure knows how to throw us one curve ball after another, Loopster!

Are we still going to the trailhead, SPHP? Do you think it’s wise?

Umm, no. That’s all we need, to wake up tomorrow morning in a blizzard already snowed in at 9,400 feet, miles from the highway. Time for Plan B, Looper! Or maybe it’s Plan C or D by now?

What’s Plan B, or C or D, or whatever?

I’ll let you know, as soon as I think of it, sweet puppy!

SPHP kept driving right over the Wind River Range. 81ºF at Farson, but more signs bearing the same message had been seen along the way.

OK, Loop, here’s the deal!

Do tell! I’m all ears, SPHP!

Well, not entirely, but they are pretty big. Apparently some freak storm is moving in tonight. I mean, who has ever heard of a blizzard on Labor Day? We’ve never even run into one clear up in Alaska this time of year. Anyway, this goofy storm will clear the air out, and the temperature will likely rebound within a few days. However, if it drops a lot of new snow as expected, might be very difficult to do anything among the high peaks until some big portion of it melts, which might easily take several more days.

Logical enough, SPHP. So what do we do about it?

Plan B, which probably makes the most sense, is to cut and run right now. Just call it good, and head for home. We could be there late, late tonight! No sense hanging around here for nearly a week waiting for a blizzard to hit, and then for the snow to melt. At least we got lucky and got to have a grand time in the Beartooths for a few days.

Pathetic! So, our Dingo Vacation is over already?

Afraid so.

What about Plans C & D, SPHP?

Plan D, I haven’t come up with yet. Plan C is to head S trying to out run the storm. Maybe it won’t get past the Uinta Range, or miss it to the E? Don’t really have anything planned down there, but we could probably come up with a few peaks to climb somewhere in Utah.

I like Plan C better, SPHP! Can we do that?

I suppose. If that’s what you want. Sort of a long shot, but who knows, it might work out fantastically! Sometimes it pays to be flexible.

If you don’t mind then, SPHP, let’s go for it! What have we got to lose? It’s an adventure! Onward! G6, ho!

Well, there was all that money wasted on fuel to lose, if Plan B didn’t pan out, but SPHP complied. The whole situation was surrealistic. Driving S on Hwy 191, the G6 registered 86ºF. Fleeing snow? Tonight? Absurd! Ridiculous! The only indicator of any big change in the weather was that it was getting windy. And off to the N, (Yes, the N!), the formerly smoky sky was turning blue.

Even if Plan B proved futile, which remained to be seen, the scenic drive was fun! After entering Utah, SPHP briefly dropped by the visitor center at the Flaming Gorge dam. Personnel inside confirmed that the forecast was for 2 days of snow. Might possibly be able to do something around here tomorrow morning before it hit.

A N wind was blowing during a brief stop at **Flaming Gorge reservoir**, Utah.

Tomorrow morning? That wouldn’t be enough time to accomplish much. Onward! The drive S continued.

Not windy S of the Uintas! At least, not yet. Instead, it was back to the same old problem. At Steinaker Reservoir, N of Vernal, the air was thick with smoke. A sickly orange-pink sun glimmered through a choking haze, it’s light reflecting on the still large, but half-withered lake.

Vernal was the land of Mordor, suffocating in a dense blanket of smoke. Off to the W, though, the sky was brighter, as if there was a definite edge to the cloud. A check of the atlas. Hmm. There was a Gray Head Peak (9,496 ft.) and an Indian Head Peak (9,959 ft.) shown SW of Duchesne. Maybe Lupe could climb one of them tomorrow?

Potentially promising! Definitely less smoke, and not so stifling hot (68ºF), when SPHP parked the G6 for the night in the Ashley National Forest SW of Duchesne.

9-8-20, 7:17 AM, 32ºF, Hwy 191, Ashley National Forest – Lupe hopped out of the G6, ready for adventure. Sleet, borne on a cold, raw breeze! Must have just started, only a little clinging to the G6 so far.

Sorry, Lupe.

Not happening, is it, SPHP?

Nope. No way we’re going to climb Gray Head or Indian Head today. Gotta face the music, Loop. We could keep going, but it doesn’t make any sense. If we go far enough to escape the storm, we’ll just run into smoke. Umpteen fires blazing away out in California, and we’d just be getting closer to them.

Seems the Year of Perfect Vision has us cornered, doesn’t it?

In a way, but our little fiascos are nothing compared to what others have had to deal with this year. So shake it, off Lucky Dingo! Your summer of 2020 adventures might be over and done with, but others will be heading your way soon enough.

That last part turned out to be true enough. Having given up on this Dingo Vacation, just getting home proved to be an adventure in itself.

9-8-20, 10:38 AM, 32ºF, Hwy 40, NW Colorado – Vernal had been a balmy 44ºF this morning as SPHP drove through it, but snow had been visible on the foothills of the Uinta Range, and dark clouds hung low obscuring the mountains. Maybe best not to go back that way! As a result, SPHP had kept driving E. However, conditions had rapidly deteriorated E of Dinosaur, Colorado.

Now Lupe stood out in the gale at a “Point of Interest” 4 miles W of the little town of Maybell. What the point of interest might pertain to was a mystery. Signs were all plastered in snow and ice. The Year of Perfect Vision was putting an emphatic end to any notions of “Summer of 2020 Dingo Vacations”. Substitute “winter” for “summer” and maybe Lupe would be on to something.

Craig, Colorado was in a low spot. No snow, just rain. Turning N, Hwy 13 climbed back into a winter wonderland. Reaching Hwy 789, flashing lights on a sign near the Wyoming border indicated that I-80 was closed 50 miles ahead. Through piles of slush, the G6 pressed on despite the warning, bucking a strong NW wind. Snowing only lightly here, but 27ºF and the wind was building drifts.

I-80 was open at the junction with Hwy 789. No problem getting onto it. Heading E, only one lane was partially clear. Crusty, half-frozen slush on the rest of it. SPHP tailed several vehicles going E at 35 to 40 mph. No traffic at all going W. A lighted sign soon explained. I-80 was closed at Sinclair, 16 miles ahead.

At Rawlins, Hwy 789/287 going N to Muddy Gap was closed, too. With no routes open to the N or E, Lupe was stuck. She really didn’t mind. Half a foot of snow, 28ºF, and a frigid wind meant one thing. About time for that cheapskate SPHP to break down and get the Carolina Dog a motel room. Ahh, yes! Pillows, blankets, and a big soft bed to stretch out on. Now we’re talking!

9-9-20, 8:55 AM, 27ºF, Hwy 73 E of Baroil, Wyoming – Why on earth they had closed Hwy 789/287 yesterday was beyond SPHP. A 10 or 12 mile long section of patches of snow and ice N of Rawlins, then the highway had been completely clear after that. Snow in the fields, but the road was smooth and dry.

Loop was out of the G6 for a quick sniff. Off to the NW stood an old friend, Whiskey Peak (9,225 ft.), decked out in white. The American Dingo had been up there once, in June, 2017. Fun to see it again.

**Whiskey Peak** from Hwy 73 E of Baroil. Photo looks NW.

**Whiskey Peak** with help from the telephoto lens.

The day warmed up. In the 40’sºF! Perhaps one last attempt to salvage something more from this Dingo Vacation? Maybe Lupe could climb Mile High Hill (5,280 ft.)? At MP 37.1 along Hwy 450 on the way to Newcastle, SPHP turned S on Lynch Road. Good gravel for a mile to a junction with Piney Creek Road where the old Darlington School stood vacant, its last students having abandoned it countless years ago.

A pickup truck on Piney Creek Road was coming this way. The driver turned out to be a friendly young guy who worked for the coal mine. He’d never heard of Mile High Hill, but his phone showed the region it was in as BLM land.

However, 6 inches of snow were melting up in the Rochelle Hills, and he pronounced the remote dirt and gravel roads leading into the area a quagmire impassable to the G6. His formerly white truck, covered in mud from wheels to roof, spoke eloquently in support of this assessment.

*Oh, we’ll be back someday! Just you wait and see!* Photo looks NW.

So that was it. The last gasp, the final straw. Smoke and blizzards! The Year of Perfect Vision had put a screeching halt to Lupe’s summer of 2020 Dingo Vacations. Might as well go home. (End 3:41 PM, 54ºF)

Point of Interest, Hwy 40, 4 miles W of Maybell, Colorado, 9-8-20

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