2018 Yukon, Northwest Territiories & Alaska – Page 11 – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Mount Jimmy Simpson, Banff National Park, Alberta, Canada (8-6-18)

Days 1-3 of Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon, Northwest Territories & Alaska!

Lupe stood out on the flat, cracked mud of a small clearing. Bright green shoots were poking up around the edges. Bushes or stunted deep green conifers surrounded most of the area. The Carolina Dog gazed up at SPHP with a puzzled expression. A fabulous morning in the Canadian Rockies! Everything had been going great. What was the holdup?

Lupe wasn’t the only one puzzled. The path simply ended here. No sign of any trail. SPHP had been certain there would be one. A year ago, on the way back from Bow Glacier Falls, a hiker had told SPHP there was a side trail to Mount Jimmy Simpson (9,731 ft.) from this area. The hiker had said the trail left the Bow Glacier Falls Trail from the forested ridge providing the first close up view of the falls. A search of that ridge had revealed nothing. Lupe had gone on, giving up on the idea, but SPHP had vowed she would return some day better prepared.

So here she was! Back again, a year later. Supposedly better prepared, but apparently not well enough. As SPHP studied the topo map with the GPS track on it, a sickening realization sunk in. Overly confident, SPHP hadn’t printed out enough of the surrounding territory to be able to tell exactly where Lupe was supposed to leave the Bow Glacier Falls trail. The falls weren’t shown.

Should have paid more attention to the terrain to the W on the way up. Most of it was out of sight now. Heh. It didn’t seem right. SPHP hated to say it, much less do it. Probably a complete waste of valuable time, but the possibility needed to be checked out.

Guess we better go back, Looper! Don’t think we did, but we might have already missed the turn to Mount Jimmy Simpson. Let’s go back down for a quick reconnaissance. We can come back up and search around some more, if we don’t see anything promising below the stairs.

Made you wonder. Was this just the first big fiasco of many more to come? On August 4th, two days ago, Lupe had finally left home to start this grandest of all her Summer of 2018 Dingo Vacations. Six solid weeks of epic adventures ahead! Well, maybe. The plan was ultimately to take the new all season road to Tuktoyaktuk. The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood was going all the way to the Arctic Ocean! Yet, even though this Dingo Vacation had launched 4 days late, SPHP hadn’t managed to get Lupe on the road until afternoon.

Even then, SPHP had forgotten something. Coats! No joke. That was the sad state of preparation for this incredible journey. Loopster had been forced to return home so SPHP could retrieve coats. Seemed like a detail that shouldn’t have managed to slip by on a long anticipated trip to the Arctic. Lupe had finally hit the road for good at 2:09 PM (8-4-18, 86°F).

Since then, at least until now, things had gone well. The G6 had purred W on I-90 through Wyoming. By sundown on the 4th, Lupe was beyond Billings only a few miles S of Lavina, Montana. The next morning she’d enjoyed a scenic drive up the Musselshell River valley, revisited King’s Hill (8,008 ft.) in the Little Belt Mountains, and stopped by for a drink out of Issac Walton Spring at Al Buck Memorial Park.

*Oh, are you coming with? Glad to hear it! Hope you remembered **your** coat! We’re going all the way to the Arctic Ocean. Tuktoyaktuk or bust!* Lupe at a quick stop along I-90 E of the Bighorn Mountains, Wyoming 8-4-18

Sundown from Hwy 3 S of Lavina, Montana 8-4-18

**Porphyry Peak (8,192 ft.)** from **King’s Hill** in the **Little Belt Mountains**, MT 8-5-18. Photo looks W.

Exploring a new off-road route down the W side of **King’s Hill**. Photo looks SW.

Cooling off in **Issac Walton Spring** at **Al Buck Memorial Park** along Hwy 89 N of the Little Belt Mountains, Montana.

**Belt Creek** across Hwy 89 from Al Buck Memorial Park. Photo looks SSW.

By mid-afternoon on the 5th, Lupe had breezed through customs into Canada. She made it to Banff in the Canadian Rockies in time for her traditional evening Pretty Puppy Parade up and down both sides of Banff Avenue. And as light faded from the sky, she’d strolled the path along the Bow River clear down to Bow River Falls and back.

*Only 1.5 days into our Dingo Vacation, and here we are at **Banff** in the fabulous **Canadian Rockies** along the **Bow River**. That’s **Cascade Mountain (9,836)** (Center) in the background!* Photo looks N.

*Banff Avenue! This way to the Pretty Puppy Parade! It’s a tradition, you know.* Photo looks N.

*Maybe there’s going to be a Mangy Moose Parade, too?*

**Bow River Falls** near the end of the day in Banff, 8-5-18

This morning had started out well, too. Up at dawn, Lupe and SPHP had been treated to the super scenic drive W from Banff on Hwy 1, then N along Icefields Parkway Hwy 93 all the way to breakfast at the picnic ground along the E shore of Bow Lake. Along the N shore, the red roof of Simpson’s Num-Ti-Jah Lodge had been in view.

Towering beyond both Bow Lake and the lodge was Lupe’s peakbagging goal for the day – Mount Jimmy Simpson (9,731 ft.). Oh, yeah! The views were going to be stupendous from up there!

**Mount Jimmy Simpson** (Center) from the picnic ground on the E shore of **Bow Lake**. Photo looks NW.

The trail, or route, or whatever it was to Mount Jimmy Simpson was an off-shoot from the trail to Bow Glacier Glacier Falls, and the trail to Bow Glacier Falls started from the Num-Ti-Jah Lodge. That much was for absolute certain. Lupe had been all the way to the falls twice before. The trek to Bow Glacier Falls is one of the easiest, most scenic half-day hikes in the entire Canadian Rockies.

So as soon as breakfast was over, SPHP had driven over to the trailhead parking lot by the Num-Ti-Jah Lodge. (8:27 AM, 47°F) Of course, the first thing to do, even before setting off on the trail, was to check out the view of Bow Lake, Crowfoot Mountain (10,023 ft.), and the Crowfoot Glacier from the N shore.

Along the N shore of **Bow Lake**. **Bow Peak (9,318 ft.)** (far L), **Crowfoot Glacier** (L) and **Crowfoot Mountain** (R). Photo looks SSE.

Off to the SW, where she would soon be headed, Lupe could see the toe of the Bow Glacier and the upper half of Bow Glacier Falls.

From the shore of **Bow Lake** close to Num-Ti-Jah Lodge, Lupe already had a distant view of the toe of the **Bow Glacier** and upper portion of **Bow Glacier Falls** (L). Photo looks SW.

**Bow Glacier** and **Bow Glacier Falls**. Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.

A few people were out and about, but it was still relatively early. The views from Bow Lake were wonderful, but this was only the beginning! An incredible day full of amazing scenery was ahead. The Bow Glacier Falls trail would be busy before long. Still a chance to beat the rush, if the Carolina Dog got underway now!

**Mount Jimmy Simpson** (Center) from the N shore of Bow Lake. The Bow Glacier Falls Trail heads off to the L (W) along the shoreline. Photo looks NW.

From Num-Ti-Jah Lodge, the Bow Glacier Falls trail heads W along the N shore of Bow Lake. Loopster had been this way before, but it was still astonishing how beautiful Bow Lake was! Crowfoot Mountain soared dramatically from the opposite shore. As Lupe got farther along the lake, she could see more of the wilderness peaks to the SW.

**Bow Lake** was an astonishingly beautiful blue! **Crowfoot Mountain** on the L. The spire seen far beyond Lupe at Center is **St. Nicholas Peak** **(9,639 ft.)**. Photo looks SW.

**Mount Olive (10,256 ft.)** (L), **St. Nicholas Peak** (L of Center), **Polaris Peak (8,694 ft.)** (Center R). **Bow Glacier** and **Bow Glacier Falls** on the R. Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.

Immediately beyond Bow Lake, the trail went SSW along the edge of a delta built up by the Bow River. Looking back to the NE, Lupe could see Cirque Peak (9,820 ft.), which she had climbed in July, 2014.

**Cirque Peak** (Center) from the delta created by the **Bow River** where it enters **Bow Lake**. Photo looks NE.

For short stretches, the trail was forced a little up into the forest on the steep slope W of the closest channel of the Bow River, but most of the way Lupe was crossing an exposed floodplain covered with smallish rounded stones. The river was low this time of year.

At one point, the Bow Glacier Falls Trail left the floodplain to climb over a little bump of a ridge before returning to the low ground. A higher forested ridge was now ahead past another long stretch of floodplain. At the far SSW end, a steep set of stairs started up this larger ridge.

The **Bow Glacier Falls Trail** follows the **Bow River** upstream. Photo looks SSW.

End of the super easy part! The stairs (Center) leading up the ridge are just ahead. Photo looks SSW.

Lupe started up the stairs. To the L (SE), the Bow River gushed through a deep, narrow gorge. When the stairs ended, the trail continued a short, steep climb to the top of the ridge. Upon reaching the ridgeline, Lupe could see a tributary coming in from the S that joined the Bow River right before it entered the gorge.

Snow-clad Mount Olive (10,256 ft.) was in view at the far end of the scenic canyon that this tributary came from.

*This is one of my favorite spots along the Bow Glacier Falls Trail! That snowy peak at the far end of the canyon is **Mount Olive**.* Photo looks S.

From this same point, Bow Glacier Falls was in sight again off to the SW. It wasn’t that much farther away now.

*There’s **Bow Glacier Falls** (Center) again! We’re getting close!* Photo looks SW.

As Lupe knew from experience, the trail went on all the way to the falls. A most worthwhile trek, but that wasn’t the plan today. Loop was now on the same forested ridge she had explored a year ago looking for the trail to Mount Jimmy Simpson. Back then, none of the little side trails in the forest had panned out. Her chance to conduct a more thorough search of this whole region had finally arrived.

Just ahead, the Bow Glacier Falls Trail dipped into a low area next to a rocky ridge. The trail skirted this ridge to the S before continuing on to the falls. Before that, though, a side path headed off to the R (NW) into the gap between the forested and rocky ridges. Of course! That must be it! SPHP led Lupe into the opening. Two minutes later, the path ended.

Ended at a small, flat clearing of cracked mud where green shoots sprouted up.

Down? That’s crazy! Why would we go down, SPHP? We just got here! Only 2 seconds ago you were convinced the trail to Mount Jimmy Simpson was right around here, or only a little farther up closer to the falls. Why don’t we go that way?

We will Loop, but first let’s eliminate the possibility that we’ve already missed the turn. Might be harder to find this trail to Jimmy Simpson than I thought. Keep in mind that last year on the way back from the falls to this point, I’d already spoken to the hiker that told us about it. We looked for the trail to Jimmy Simpson up there, and we didn’t see it, remember?

Yes, but the trail has got to be partway up that mountain to the W, doesn’t it? Which is higher, not lower! Let’s just go over to the mountain, and start climbing. We’ll find the way! I’ll sniff it out!

Yes, it’s up there somewhere, but that mountainside is a huge, steep area. Maybe you can run around easily enough on it, but I can’t. You know how slow I am! A lot of that territory might be completely impassable to me due to the jungle lower down, and cliffs higher up. We should at least scout out what looks like the best approach from down here in case we can’t find the trail.

Can’t find it! We’ll come across it soon enough. Your magic map shows the route, doesn’t it? Why aren’t we following it to begin with? What does it say? How about we just follow the map instead of wasting time going back to where we’ve already been.

The map says I should have printed out more map. It shows a GPS track, but I can’t tell exactly where until it’s way, way up there. So we need to find the trail down here, or at least figure out what looks like the best chance of success before doing anything drastic.

A year to prepare, and you brought half a map? Oh, silly me! That’s right! I’m with someone who doesn’t think to bring a coat to the Arctic. OK, whatever you say, SPHP. Seems ridiculous, but if it makes you happy, let’s go back down and see whatever we should have been looking at on the way here.

Shouldn’t take long, Loop. Promise!

Lupe hadn’t had much of a lead on the morning crowd about to swarm up to Bow Glacier Falls. While she headed back down the forested ridge to the stairway, groups of hikers were coming up. SPHP chatted briefly with anyone who seemed inclined to stop for a moment. Any chance they happened to know where the trail to Mount Jimmy Simpson was?

It was a total, desperate, long shot, and SPHP knew it. Probably wasn’t one person in a hundred, maybe a thousand, who had any intention of going up Mount Jimmy Simpson. Everyone was heading to Bow Glacier Falls, the splendid, easy to reach attraction not that far away.

Naturally, no one had a clue. Lupe was almost to the bottom of the stairs when one couple that was particularly friendly offered to compare the GPS route on SPHP’s paper map with the topo map on their phone. The verdict was inconclusive, but it looked like the GPS route left the trail somewhat farther up toward the falls, not down here.

*A fool’s errand, but I guess we gotta do this! Still mighty pretty along in here, even if we aren’t getting anywhere.* Lupe on her way back down the stairs. Photo looks NNE.

SPHP thanked the helpful couple, and they went on.

No sense going any farther. What could be seen so far didn’t look right. Too much dense forest to the W for too far up. Not much of a chance the trail to Mount Jimmy Simpson was actually down here. Who knew for sure, though? Couldn’t be ruled out entirely, but this didn’t jive with what the hiker had said a year ago, nor what the friendly couple’s phone indicated, nor SPHP’s impression held for many months now based on what could be remembered of the complete map.

Satisfied, SPHP?

Yeah, I think so.

Back up then?

Uh, huh. Onward, sweet puppy!

When Loop got back to the top of the forested ridge where she could see Bow Glacier Falls again, the friendly couple wasn’t far away. They were now down in the dip between the ridges chatting with another group of hikers. They had the trail blocked. After the conversation broke up, and the other hikers were already underway, Lupe and SPHP went over to talk to the couple again.

They had news! Guess where that group of 5 hikers that had just left them was heading? Yes, that’s right – Mount Jimmy Simpson! A quick, sincere thank you, and Lupe was off!

After them, SPHP! Don’t let them get away!

Luck of the Dingo! That’s what it was! The 5 hikers stayed on the main trail to Bow Glacier Falls much farther than SPHP expected. They were halfway to the falls before they left the trail angling WSW up a rock strewn slope toward a big forested ramp.

**Mount Jimmy Simpson** (Center) from just past the rocky ridge (R). Photo looks NNW.

*Hurry, SPHP! We can’t lose them!* Off-trail now, the 5 hikers head for a big forested ramp. Photo looks WSW.

SPHP wasn’t fast enough to gain on the hikers. They reached the base of the ramp and disappeared into the forest. No choice, but to try to keep after them.

Perfectly obvious now why the Carolina Dog hadn’t seen where the trail to Mount Jimmy Simpson left the Bow Glacier Falls Trail a year ago. No such discernible trail existed. This was simply an unmarked route up the stony slope. And it didn’t start from anywhere near that lower forested ridge.

*Look how close we are to **Bow Glacier Falls**!* Photo looks SSW.

The Luck of the Dingo held. When SPHP reached the forest at the base of the ramp, Lupe discovered that the 5 hikers hadn’t gone much farther. They’d paused for a break in a grassy spot among huge boulders. SPHP stopped to catch breath close enough to hear them talking.

Bow Glacier Falls from close to the first rest stop at the base of the ramp. Photo looks S.

The hikers were already about rested up. Within minutes they pressed on heading NNE up the ramp. SPHP tried to follow, but immediately fell behind. A scramble up a short rocky slope led to a grassier, wider part of the ramp. Lupe did find a faint trail along in here.

The grassy part of the ramp was moderately steep, but not too hard. It wasn’t long, though, before an obvious scar appeared on the really steep slope on the L (W). That scar was a badly eroded remnant of a trail. The hikers were still in sight, heading straight up this slope toward a stunted forest at the base of a cliff.

Lupe could have kept up with those hikers so easily! Ever faithful, she instead hung back with SPHP, who kept having to pause to catch breath, and seemed doomed to lose them. Even while gasping for air, it was amazing how spectacular the views were already becoming!

Loop about to leave the first big ramp to follow the hikers up to the patch of forest (Center) at the base of the cliffs. Photo looks WNW.

The first big ramp (Lower L) is down by the forest. **Vulture Peak (9,701 ft.)** (L), **Mount Olive** (R of Center) and **Polaris Peak** (R above the falls). Photo looks S.

The hikers disappeared from sight again well before SPHP reached the base of the cliff. Lupe continued steeply higher, following a bit of a trail N right alongside the cliff wall. To SPHP’s relief, the hikers had paused a second time. Lupe and SPHP caught up. The Carolina Dog’s tour guides left again almost immediately, still heading N along walls of rock.

SPHP took another breather. Lupe now had a great view of Bow Lake.

**Bow Lake** with **Cirque Peak** (Center) beyond it. Photo looks NE.

Then it was off again, chasing after those 5 hikers! Lupe traversed many narrow ledges. Every now and then, there were nearly vertical short climbs higher. Some places there were stunted conifers, other places were out in the dizzying, airy open. Often there was a visible trail, but not always. Sometimes the “trail” was braided, offering more than one possible route.

For a while, SPHP did a better job of staying caught up. Eventually, though, the hikers began to pull away. More and more often, they were lost from view. Each time the Carolina Dog rounded a minor corner, she saw them again, but farther and farther away.

The views became ever more impressive. SPHP often clung to the rock walls next to the narrow ledges. Finally, two errors were committed – steep climbs that led to dead ends. Careful retreats consumed precious minutes. Lupe continued on, but the hikers were gone.

**Cirque Peak** (L) and **Dolomite Peak (9,383 ft.)** (the spiky one on the R) beyond **Bow Lake**. **Crowfoot Mountain** (R) in the foreground. Photo looks ENE.

Looking back again. **Crowfoot Mountain** (L), **Vulture Peak** (Center), **Mount Olive** (R), **Polaris Peak** (far R). Photo looks S.

Coming up the narrow ledges. Photo looks SSW.

Happily, before going too much farther, the ledges finally broadened out. The terrain became far less steep and nerve-wracking. Lupe ought to be able to get to Mount Jimmy Simpson on her own now!

*Oh, happy day! The ledges are widening out and there’s **Mount Jimmy Simpson** (Center) dead ahead!* Photo looks N.

Lupe and SPHP were making much faster progress again. A question soon arose as to whether or not to climb up onto a considerably higher big ramp to the W. A little movement caught the eye. Two of the hikers were in view! Far away, but on the same ramp Lupe was on. No need to go higher.

This was easy terrain, almost level. Lupe was gaining on them now! Soon all 5 were in sight climbing a slope leading to another wide ramp.

Catching up! The route goes up the slope directly beyond Lupe only far enough to be able to turn R (N) along the top of the closest rock wall on the R. The 5 hikers are mere specks just to the L of the slope beyond Loop. Photo looks NW.

Looper followed them. As she reached the top of this final ramp, all 5 hikers were once again in view, but still with a big lead. One by one, they disappeared over a bouldery ridge at the far end of the ramp.

Puppy, ho! Onward!

Doing great! The 5 hikers are still in sight as specks at the very center of this photo. They’ll soon disappear over the gray ridge. Clearly, the goal now is to get to the upper saddle (Center). Photo looks NW.

Lupe crested the bouldery ridge 7 minutes later. A down climb amid huge boulders was directly ahead. At the bottom, a long snowfield led NW most of the way up a giant cirque. The 5 hikers were just now reaching the snow, about to start up again.

As soon as SPHP managed to get down there, Lupe was in pursuit.

Lupe at the base of the snowfield in the giant cirque. Her tour guides are leading the way higher. Photo looks NW.

The huge cirque became progressively steeper. Beyond the upper limit of the snowfield, it was worse yet. Most of the terrain consisted of small to medium-sized scree. The loose scree was increasingly unstable. A partially exposed band of bedrock formed the critical juncture. Get above that upper rim, and the American Dingo would have it made!

This was not a trivial task. Lupe had almost caught up to the 5 hikers. Their group consisted of 3 women and 2 men, all young and strong, but even they were having to be careful and take their time. SPHP favored going almost straight up the middle of the cirque, but Lupe’s guides headed toward the firmer exposed rock formations on the R (N). Stones came clattering down, but both men and one of the women made it up without too much trouble.

The other 2 women were having a slower time of it. Lupe and SPHP caught up to them, and even got ahead for a little way. It was the first real opportunity for interaction, and sort of broke the ice a bit. After some anxious moments clinging to whatever nub of firm rock presented itself as scree showered down the treacherous slope, everyone made it safely past the dicey part.

The worst was over! Yet another steep slope led directly to the big upper saddle, but this was nothing compared to what Loopster had just been through. The unseen summit of Mount Jimmy Simpson was somewhere to the N, still 900 feet higher, but nothing but a long, steady trudge up a barren, obstacle-free slope remained. Lupe was in a world of rock, sky, and fabulous views of snow-clad peaks, ice fields and glaciers.

Looking back from above the upper rim of the giant cirque. Photo looks S.

It would have been easy to go straight on up to the huge upper saddle, but Lupe’s guides took a more efficient route, bypassing it more directly to the N. SPHP couldn’t keep up, and fell behind again. All 5 hikers were pulling away. Hardly mattered now, anyway. Lupe was going to make it!

Looking back toward the upper saddle. Lupe never actually went to it, coming up from the L (SE). Photo looks W.

The summit (R) comes into view. Photo looks NNE.

Lupe reached the summit of Mount Jimmy Simpson (9,731 ft.) 10 or 15 minutes after the 5 hikers. They were all hanging out near the summit cairn, or over by the tremendous view of Bow Lake. SPHP made certain to praise Looper for making it all the way up this mighty peak, shaking her paw and congratulating her with great enthusiasm.

At the summit of **Mount Jimmy Simpson**. **Mount Patterson** **(10,469 ft.)** with snow on the L. **Mistaya River valley** (R). A smidgen of **Peyto Lake** is in view. Photo looks NW.

Everyone else seemed pleased by that, and offered the Carolina Dog praise, too. Introductions were made, and SPHP got to chatting with Lupe’s benefactors. All 5 were from Calgary. Apparently they were in the habit of exploring the Canadian Rockies together fairly frequently, although whether they were were all members of some sort of alpine club, or simply good friends, was never clear.

After pleasantries were exchanged, Lupe and SPHP devoted attention to the fabulous views good fortune had made it possible to enjoy.

**Cauldron Lake** (L), **Mistaya Mountain (10,154 ft.)** (Center), and the **Delta Glacier** (R). Photo looks NW.

**Peyto Peak (9,744 ft.)** (L), **Cauldron Lake** (Center) and **Mistaya Mountain** (R). Photo looks WNW with help from the telephoto lens.

Lupe on **Mount Jimmy Simpson**. **Patterson Peak** on the L. Photo looks NNW.

**Bow Lake** from **Mount Jimmy Simpson** summit. **Mount Hector (11,135 ft.)** (R) in the distance. Photo looks SE.

**Peyto Glacier**. Photo looks WSW with help from the telephoto lens.

The closest peaks beyond Icefields Parkway Hwy 93 are **Cirque Peak (9,820 ft.)** (L) and **Dolomite Peak (9,383 ft.)** (jagged on the R). Photo looks E.

**Mistaya River valley**. Photo looks NNW.

**Peyto Peak** (L), **Cauldron Lake** (Center), **Mistaya Mountain** (Center), and the **Delta Glacier** (R) again. Photo looks WNW.

For a while, Lupe relaxed near the summit cairn.

Taking it easy on **Mount Jimmy Simpson**. Photo looks ESE.

Mount Hector on the R. Mighty thoughtful of the Canadians to provide such a colorful array of backpacks! Photo looks SE.

Looking back down at the upper saddle. **Mount Thompson (10,135 ft.)** (Center). The **Bow Glacier** and lake above Bow Glacier Falls are on the L. **Peyto Glacier** on the R. Photo looks SW.

**Mount Balfour (10,774 ft.)** (far L), **Mount Olive (10,256 ft.)** (L), **St. Nicholas Peak** **(9,639 ft.)** (dark prong at Center), **Mount Gordon (10,371 ft.)** (R). **Bow Glacier** also on the R. **Bow Glacier Falls** (Lower L). Photo looks S with help from the telephoto lens.

**Bow Lake** from **Mount Jimmy Simpson**. Photo looks SE.

Lupe got to spend over 40 minutes up on Mount Jimmy Simpson. She rested up, saw incredible sights, and made 5 new friends. Before departing, her Canadian benefactors were all quite willing to pose with the American Dingo.

On **Mount Jimmy Simpson** with (L to R): **Cayla**, **Fletcher**, **Betty**, **Sarah** & **Jon**.

It was sad to see them go. Sad, because her new friends were all leaving her behind. And sad, because it meant Lupe was going to have to leave the splendor of Mount Jimmy Simpson, too. SPHP thought it best to try to stay close to the Canadians during the tricky route along the narrow ledges.

Lupe’s new friends start back down toward the upper saddle. Photo looks SW.

The Canadians approach the upper lip of the giant cirque. Photo looks S.

SPHP is even slower going down steep stuff than going up. So the return trip was similar to Lupe’s ascent. SPHP always trying not to fall too far behind. Lupe caught up to the Canadians once as they were deciding which way to descend into the giant cirque, and again when they took a short break on the wide ramps.

Heading down the wide ramps below the giant cirque. Photo looks S.

After that, though, the Canadians were simply faster. They came into view now and then, but always farther ahead than before. They took a lower descent path this time avoiding some of the more treacherous, narrowest ledges. SPHP wound up too low, stuck thrashing around in the forest for a little way.

From the top of the morning’s first steep ascent where the scar of a trail was, Lupe saw the Canadians for the last time. They were already down on the first big ramp, still moving fast.

The way back was well known from here. Lupe and SPHP slowed down. May as well enjoy this beautiful evening in the Canadian Rockies. Lupe’s Calgary guides were gone. The crowds who had come to see Bow Glacier Falls were long gone, too. Solitude, splendid scenery on an enormous scale, and an easy trek back to Bow Lake to look forward to.

Nearing **Bow Glacier Falls** on the way down the first ramp. Photo looks SSW.

Out on the rocky slope looking back up at **Mount Jimmy Simpson** and the first big ramp. Photo looks N.

Approaching the forested ridge on the way back to the stairs and Bow Lake. **Cirque Peak** (Center) in the distance. Photo looks NE.

What a glorious day Mount Jimmy Simpson had been! By all rights, it should have been a complete flop. Not likely Lupe and SPHP would ever have found the way up Mount Jimmy Simpson, if those 5 Canadians from Calgary hadn’t come along right when they did.

Luck of the Dingo! If it kept holding like it did today, the next 6 weeks were going to be fantastic!

**Cayla**, **Fletcher**, **Betty**, **Sarah**, **Jon** & **Lupe** on **Mount Jimmy Simpson**, Banff National Park, Alberta, Canada 8-6-18

Links:

Next Adventure

Bow Lake & the Trail to Bow Glacier Falls, Banff National Park, Canada (7-25-13)

Cirque Peak, Banff National Park, Canada (7-27-14)

Bow Glacier Falls, Banff National Park, Canada (8-2-17)

Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon, Northwest Territories & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

K’esugi Ridge: Ermine Hill & Peak 3700, Denali State Park, Alaska (9-4-18)

Days 31 & 32 of Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon, Northwest Territories & Alaska!

Morning 9-3-18 – Clear skies! If they would last, this was Lupe’s big chance! As SPHP drove N on George Parks Highway No. 3, the Carolina Dog’s luck was holding. Near midday she arrived at the Denali South Viewpoint (MP 135.2) in Denali State Park.

Oh, this was Lupe’s lucky day! She had finally arrived at the Denali South Viewpoint in Denali State Park on a clear day – a feat that had eluded her in both 2016 & 2017.

It was Labor Day, and the parking lot was nearly full. People and dogs all over the place! They had all come to see what Lupe and SPHP had come to see, too – that glorious, monstrous, white mountain, highest in all of North America – Denali (20,310 ft.)!

Loopster had seen Denali in the clear from a great distance in 2016. Yet, although she had been to Denali State Park in both 2016 and 2017, the American Dingo had never caught more than glimpses of tiny portions of the mountain from anywhere nearly this close before. Lower peaks had sometimes been in view, but Denali and all the other white giants of the Alaska Range had always been shrouded by clouds.

The first look at Denali from the viewing area near the parking lot was beautiful, but not the best one available. A 5 minute stroll along a wide path lined by trees and tall bushes brought Loopster to an even better viewpoint. Beyond the Chulitna River valley, there stood Denali, still nearly 40 miles away, gleaming white against the blue, blue sky. Denali was a thrilling sight!

*There it is, SPHP! **Denali**, the highest mountain in North America! We finally get to see it!* Photo looks NW.

Lupe at the **Denali South Viewpoint** in **Denali State Park**.

**Denali** beyond the **Chulitna Rive**r. Photo looks NW help from the telephoto lens.

**Denali** with lots of help from the telephoto lens. Even at the Denali South Viewpoint, the massive mountain was still nearly 40 miles away!

While Denali was the star of the show, many other glorious peaks were on display, too. SPHP wasn’t certain of their names.

Zoomed in on **Kahlitna Peaks**? If so, **West Kahlitna Peak (12,835 ft.)** is on the L. **East Kahlitna Peak (13,440 ft.)** on the R. Photo looks NW.

**Mount Hunter (14,573 ft.)** may be the white dome peeping out from behind these jagged peaks. Photo looks NW, again with plenty of help from the telephoto lens.

Looking N farther up the **Chulitna River** valley.

With teeming holiday crowds present, it was probably best not to linger too long. Still, it was hard to tear oneself away from Denali! Loop and SPHP hung around for 20 minutes before reluctantly moving on. SPHP drove a little farther N on George Parks Highway No. 3, stopping next at the Ermine Hill trailhead (MP 156.5).

Still early afternoon. What to do? On the one hand, seeing Denali from Ermine Hill (2,700 ft.) would be fantastic! Would take a few hours to get up there, but Lupe had time. On the other hand, Ermine Hill wasn’t the American Dingo’s only anticipated destination up on K’esugi Ridge.

Lupe had climbed Ermine Hill once before. In 2017, she had seen a considerably higher hill from the summit more than 3 miles off to the ENE. This was Peak 3700, an unnamed high point. Peak 3700 had looked easy to climb, just a rounded hill at the far end of a long, gradual ridge. So Looper and SPHP had made an attempt on Peak 3700 that day. Lupe had made great progress, but was ultimately forced to retreat by an ominous cloud threatening rain.

Now Lupe was back! She had returned to Denali State Park not only to see Denali, but also to climb Peak 3700.

It was too late to get to both Ermine Hill and Peak 3700 today. Besides, Loop had spent the last 3 days in a row climbing mountains. Hadn’t she earned a day of rest? While tempting, the thought of climbing Ermine Hill right now to see Denali from on high also seemed exhausting. Loop intended to climb both Ermine Hill and Peak 3700 tomorrow, anyway. Provided the weather would hold for just another 24 hours, an ascent today was simply unnecessary.

Not a cloud in sight. Tomorrow seemed a reasonably safe bet. In the meantime, Looper could rest up. This evening she could go back to the Denali South Viewpoint to see the sunset. Such a nice, easy plan!

SPHP worked on catching up the trip journal. The Carolina Dog snoozed contentedly. After an hour or more, SPHP glanced up to see a single lane of traffic ground to a complete halt on the highway. Odd. The G6 was boxed in here at the Ermine Hill trailhead! Lupe couldn’t leave if she wanted to until the traffic cleared.

It didn’t clear. Nothing budged. Something was wrong. An accident? Perhaps a serious one? No one at all was getting through. Yet everyone seemed patient. No honking, yelling, or arm waving. None of that sort of thing.

Eventually, sirens confirmed it. Emergency vehicles appeared. Low flying helicopters woke Loop up, sending her into barking frenzies. Hours went by. SPHP finally stopped writing, and got out to stretch. Something dreadful must have happened. A man came over to chat. He was from North Pole near Fairbanks, on his way home with his family.

Word was that there had been a terrible tragedy, a fatal crash. The crash had occurred out of sight, but only 100 yards NE of the Ermine Hill trailhead. A car, pickup truck, and 2 motorcycles were involved. Of 5 people, 3 were dead, 2 more in critical condition. One was a little girl. Horrendous!

Not until 8:30 PM did the traffic start moving again. Slowly, one lane at a time, alternating directions. After 10:00 PM the first gaps appeared in the lines. By 11:00 PM it was over, the deadly highway dark and quiet. The end of a sorrowful, sobering evening.

9-4-18, 8:40 AM, 48°F – Ugh! Seriously? Tired or not, should have just done it, and gone with Lupe up to Ermine Hill yesterday afternoon. She could have seen Denali in the clear from that glorious vantage point then. Now blue skies were but a memory. Nearly the entire sky was overcast. Clouds hung so low, it was practically foggy out. So much for getting to see Denali again from on high. A lost opportunity.

Sorry, Looper! Guess I was a dope. Should have known. Alaska is the world champion at clouding up, as far as anywhere I’ve ever been goes.

We’re not going to Ermine Hill? Or Peak 3700?

Oh, yes, we are! At least it’s not raining out. Doesn’t seem like it’s going to either, not yet anyway. Might as well give it a whirl. It’s more or less now or never for Peak 3700, you know.

Let’s get going then! Maybe we’ll have some luck!

Looper ready to head up the Ermine Hill trail.

Lupe set out full of energy and enthusiasm! Having taken the Ermine Hill trail up onto fabulous K’esugi Ridge only a little over a year ago, it still seemed quite familiar. The trail started out gaining elevation gradually. Lupe passed through an area of tall grasses and colorful plants in a forest meadow.

*You coming, SPHP? Hurry it up! This is going to be great! You’ll see!*

The terrain flattened out. Before long Loop lost 200 feet of elevation on her way down to Byers Creek. The tippy bridge was still here, same as last year.

Crossing a small side stream on the way down to Byers Creek.

The tippy bridge over **Byers Creek** was still here, unchanged from a year ago.

Beyond the tippy bridge came a forested area crowded with ferns. The trail was full of tree roots and mucky spots. It headed downstream past a wider, shallower section of Byers Creek before finally beginning to climb out of the valley.

Down in the **Byers Creek** valley. Photo looks SW.

*Nothing like a lush undergrowth of ferns to give a forest that prehistoric feel, is there?*

Before Lupe had gained much elevation, a bridge over gushing Giardia Creek marked the start of a series of long switchbacks. The switchbacks made the climb up the steep lower slopes of K’esugi Ridge a snap for SPHP. Lupe enjoyed racing back and forth on them.

**Giardia Creek!** Might want to leave those water bottles in the backpack for now, SPHP!

Lupe had a blast on the switchbacks leading up the steep lower slopes of K’esugi Ridge.

Higher up, K’esugi Ridge wasn’t as steep. The switchbacks came to an end. The trail turned SE climbing more directly up the slope.

The forest thinned as Lupe gained elevation. Ferns disappeared. Birch or aspen mixed in with the conifers. Before long only scattered conifers remained as tall bushes took over.

Above the switchbacks the terrain wasn’t as steep. Ferns disappeared and the forest was less dense. Lupe came to stands of birch or aspen.

Looking up the Giardia Creek valley from the Ermine Hill trail. Scattered conifers and tall bushes dominated this area. Photo looks ESE.

Eventually, Lupe came to a long slope covered with low bushes. The fall colors were incredible!

Loop near the upper end of the long colorful slope shortly before leaving the **Ermine Hill trail**. Photo looks NW.

Looper left the Ermine Hill trail at the upper end of the colorful slope, shortly before it was about to disappear into tall bushes again.

In 2017, Lupe had stayed on the trail 0.5 mile farther before abandoning it to begin her search for the true summit of Ermine Hill. However, she had learned back then that it wasn’t necessary to stay on the trail for so long. The true summit was up on the very first big hill on the R (S). In fact, it appeared easier to get to the summit from here than it had been from farther along the trail.

Loop about to set off for the true summit of Ermine Hill. Photo looks SW.

The upper slopes of Ermine Hill consist of a crumbly whitish rock. Where vegetation was lacking and the exposed rock was at all steep, it was difficult for SPHP to maintain traction. Fortunately, there weren’t too many troublesome areas. Lupe had a great time exploring on the way up. She had no traction problems at all.

The lower slopes of Ermine Hill were the steepest. Once above them, a series of ramps and benches led higher. The flatter terrain up here was mostly covered with gorgeous tundra. Brilliant reds, oranges, golds and yellows were everywhere. Blueberries were abundant some places, too. SPHP would accept no criticism for the resulting slow pace of advance.

Loop up on the flatter terrain of one of the benches. Photo looks SW.

As Lupe neared the top of Ermine Hill, she spotted an oddly shaped rock ahead atop a minor ridge. SPHP dubbed it “Shark Fin Rock”.

Oddly shaped “**Shark Fin Rock**” on the ridge beyond Lupe points toward the summit of **Ermine Hill**. Photo looks S.

Of course, the Carolina Dog went to check it out.

Lupe at **Shark Fin Rock**. Shark Fin Rock seemed most unusually shaped for a natural rock formation. Loop later discovered several smaller similar formations near Ermine Hill’s summit. Photo looks N.

From Shark Fin Rock an easy 5 minute trek up loose white rock brought Loop to the top of the mountain. The whole summit area was awesome with all kinds of weird rock formations. A lovely level pedestal perfect for displaying a triumphant Carolina Dog comprised the true summit.

Yes, Lupe had returned to magnificent, gorgeous Ermine Hill (2,700 ft.)!

Lupe returns to the true summit of **Ermine Hill**. She had been here once before just over a year ago in 2017. Photo looks SE.

A few tiny patches of blue sky had been visible when Lupe had left the trailhead. Now there were none. Rain still didn’t look imminent, but it was easy to believe it might be on the way. Low gray clouds covered the sky. Farther S, though, sunshine could be seen on distant ridges.

The whole sky was gray, but sunshine could be seen on distant ridges. Photo looks SSE.

Still at the true summit. Photo looks SSE with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

A look at the true summit from the other side. Note the little cave at the lower L. It was only inches high, but Lupe was fascinated by it. Apparently parts of **Ermine Hill** were hollow! Photo looks NW.

Lupe had set out on the Ermine Hill trail full of energy and enthusiasm. However, by the time she had reached Shark Fin Rock, she had already been showing signs fatigue. SPHP was surprised, but perhaps Loopster hadn’t slept well last night? Sometimes she stays awake staring into the darkness for hours on end.

Whatever the reason, after a short initial re-exploration of Ermine Hill’s summit area, the Carolina Dog was done. She didn’t want food or water, simply to rest. No problem. It wasn’t even noon yet. Plenty of time left in the day. SPHP looked forward to relaxing and enjoying the fantastic views from Ermine Hill for a while, anyway.

Another rock outcropping almost as high as the true summit was a short distance to the NW. SPHP found a comfy spot to sit down there. Lupe curled up on SPHP’s lap, heaved a great sigh, and closed her eyes. SPHP stroked her soft fur.

Ermine Hill is a terrific viewpoint! Sadly, but as anticipated, Denali and all the high peaks of the Alaska Range were obscured by clouds. Only the lower peaks and the Chulitna River valley were in view. Golog Benchmark (2,970 ft.) which Lupe had reached on a prior adventure on K’esugi Ridge in 2016 was in sight to the SW. And, of course, Peak 3700, which SPHP hoped and expected Loop would get to this very afternoon, was visible only a little over 3 miles to the ENE.

A serene and wonderful half hour drifted by. Finally, Lupe stirred. Good deal! A few more photos from the top of Ermine Hill and she would be on her way to Peak 3700!

The **Chulitna River** valley from Ermine Hill. **Byers Lake** is in the distance on the L. Photo looks WSW.

Looking NNW across the **Chulitna & Fountain** **rivers**. Only lower slopes of mountains of the Alaska Range could be seen beyond them.

Loop at the resting spot where she spent a whole half hour dozing while curled up on SPHP’s lap. Ermine Hill’s true summit is seen on the R. Photo looks ESE.

**Peak 3700**, Lupe’s next peakbagging destination on K’esugi Ridge, is the high point on the L. Photo looks ENE.

Loop and SPHP set out for Peak 3700 heading SE. Having barely started, the American Dingo paused at the edge of the Ermine Hill summit area.

Ermine Hill(s) is actually plural. Maps show several hills in this region designated as such. The topo map shows 4 separate 2,700 foot contours. The contour farthest NW where Lupe was now clearly contained the true summit of the entire Ermine Hills region.

Ahead, Lupe could see some of the lower Ermine Hills. They were all made of the same crumbly white rock. At this time of year, the height of autumn on K’esugi Ridge, all of them were exquisitely beautiful. How fortunate to be here today! A rich tapestry of reds, whites, golds, grays, greens and yellows cloaked the Ermine Hills. They seemed so aptly named!

Loop with a view of some of the exquisitely colored lower Ermine Hills. Photo looks SE.

Peak 3700 was calling. SPHP started down. Lupe didn’t come. Instead, she gazed longingly back at Ermine Hill’s true summit. Was something wrong? Did she want to go back?

Yes, yes she did! Lupe did want to go back. Half an hour hadn’t been enough. The Carolina Dog was still tired.

Lupe didn’t want to leave **Ermine Hill**. She liked it up here, and was still tired. She wanted to go back to the true summit (Center) to rest some more. Photo looks WNW.

Well, OK, why not? Lupe and SPHP returned to the true summit. For a while, Loop curled up on SPHP’s lap again. Eventually, she preferred the comfort of a hollow among the summit rocks. SPHP laid out a Columbia pullover and gray jacket for her. Oh, so cozy! Just what the Dingo had ordered! Weary Lupe closed her eyes and slept soundly.

Well, what do you expect? Climbing mountains can tire anyone out. Especially when you climb them for days on end.

Lupe comfortably ensconced in her hollow among the rocks at the top of **Ermine Hill**. The rock on the L is the true summit. Photo looks WNW.

SPHP had plenty of time to enjoy the views from Ermine Hill a while longer. Dead to the world, Lupe snored. She barely stirred. Good things started happening. The cloud cover was breaking up! Patches of blue sky began to appear. The sunlight made everything so much brighter and the colors more vibrant than before.

Early afternoon now. Such a fabulous day to climb Peak 3700! If only Looper would wake up!

**Golog Benchmark** (L) from Ermine Hill. **Byers Lake** is on the R. While Lupe slept, good things were happening. The cloud cover started breaking up and blue sky appeared! Photo looks SW with some help from the telephoto lens.

Looper sawing wood where there was none to saw. Hopefully she’d be done pretty soon. Peak 3700 was calling her name!

More than an hour drifted by. Finally, Miss Sleepyhead stirred.

Miss Sleepyhead shows signs of recovery. Photo looks NNE.

Welcome back to the land of the living, Sleeping Beauty!

Did I drift off?

Umm, yeah, sort of. Twice now, actually. So, how are you feeling? Still up for Peak 3700?

Oh, much better, thanks. Yes, let’s do this!

Lupe was much better, too! This Dingo nap had been the miracle cure for what ailed her. Suddenly she was full of energy again. The Carolina Dog leapt up onto Ermine Hill’s true summit once more.

All rested up, Lupe returns to the true summit of **Ermine Hill** for a final look around. Photo looks SSE.

*Oh, these big patches of blue sky are most encouraging!*

The mood of the moment was certainly brighter and cheerier than had been the case a couple of hours ago when Lupe had first reached the top of Ermine Hill. For a few glorious moments, Lupe stood bathed in sunlight at the unique and beautiful true summit.

Lupe bathed in sunlight during her last moments at the top of beautiful **Ermine Hill**. Photo looks SE.

It was time to get serious about making some progress toward Peak 3700! While still mostly cloudy in that direction, the skies appeared to be clearing. Looper had better get on with it while conditions were so favorable!

Skies hadn’t cleared as much over by **Peak 3700** (Center) yet, but looked like they would soon. Photo looks ENE.

The first order of business was to get back down to the Ermine Hill trail. Loop didn’t go down the same way she had come up. Instead she headed ESE off Ermine Hill, bypassing part of the trail.

Starting back down to the Ermine Hill trail, which runs along the near side of the lake. Once on the Ermine Hill trail again, Lupe could follow it to the K’esugi Ridge trail, which runs across the saddle seen at the far end of the lake. Photo looks ESE.

The key to returning to the Ermine Hill trail efficiently was to avoid the dense stands of tall bushes which form a nearly impenetrable barrier in many places near the trail. Loop had great success. She found a route that wasn’t too steep and completely avoided the bushes.

Once on the Ermine Hill trail again, Lupe followed it toward the saddle beyond the E end of the lake. Here, she reached the junction with the K’esugi Ridge trail.

Lupe near the junction of the Ermine Hill & K’esugi Ridge trails. **Ermine Hill** is seen on the L. Lupe would follow the K’esugi Ridge trail in the direction she is facing. Photo looks NW.

Upon reaching the junction, Lupe turned NE (L) on the K’esugi Ridge trail. The trail crossed a marsh in the broad saddle E of the lake. Lupe had to ford a small stream before the trail started uphill again.

After passing through stands of tall bushes, the trail became quite steep heading N up a ravine containing another small stream. Lupe regained much of the elevation she’d lost coming down off of Ermine Hill.

Leaving the ravine, the K’esugi Ridge trail leveled out heading NW along the base of a steep hillside. This area was also marshy. Stepping stones helped, but there weren’t enough of them. A wet, mucky trudge made SPHP vow to look for an alternative route on the return trip.

Beyond the marsh, a short side trail led W off to a viewpoint. Here Lupe enjoyed a sweeping panorama of the entire Ermine Hill region.

A short spur trail off the main K’esugi Ridge trail led to this sweeping panorama of the **Ermine Hill** (Center) region. Photo looks W.

Looking back at the marsh, which was also a beautiful sight. The K’esugi Ridge trail came along the base of the hillside in shadow on the R. Photo looks E.

Returning to the K’esugi Ridge trail, Lupe headed NE climbing steadily. Soon she was high enough to see the long ridge leading to Peak 3700.

The long ridge leading to Peak 3700 appears ahead. Photo looks NE.

The K’esugi Ridge trail wouldn’t take Lupe to Peak 3700. No trail went that way. However, it would bring her to the W end of the ridge leading to it. Nearing this ridge, the trail dipped into a little valley where Lupe crossed a small stream. The trail then started up again, eventually leveling out as it curved around the W end of the ridge.

Before leaving the K’esugi Ridge trail to start for Peak 3700, Lupe had another look back at Ermine Hill and the Chulitna River valley beyond it. She was clearly higher than Ermine Hill now.

Looking back before leaving the K’esugi Ridge trail. **Ermine Hill** is seen beyond Lupe. The **Chulitna River** valley is on the R. **Golog Benchmark (2,970 ft.)** is the distant high point toward the L. Photo looks SW.

Lupe was now about 1.5 miles from the junction with the Ermine Hill trail. Peak 3700 was 2 miles due E. Full of enthusiasm, Loop and SPHP left the K’esugi Ridge trail and began to climb.

Leaving the K’esugi Ridge trail to begin the 2 mile trek to Peak 3700. Photo looks E.

The ridge leading to Peak 3700 was broad and strewn with countless rocks. Many rocks were covered with the thick, crunchy black lichens common in parts of Alaska. The pristine, trackless tundra was gorgeous. So many brilliant colors! So much exquisite detail!

It was an easy climb. Just wandering really, from one modest high point to the next. No tree or bush existed to block any of the tremendous views in all directions. Natural beauties were everywhere from the tiny to the vast.

Following the huge ridge leading to Peak 3700 was easy! Lupe simply wandered at will from one high point to the next. Photo looks E.

Looking back. **Golog Benchmark** (L), **Ermine Hill** (Center), **Chulitna Rive**r valley (R). Photo looks SW.

Happy Lupe! So full of joy! She ran great distances, sometimes far from SPHP. She explored and sniffed. She was never gone too long, but came running back frequently. Her pink tongue dangled, her chest heaved. The Dingo’s eyes were bright and spoke of the wonders she was seeing and sensing all around.

SPHP fully shared Looper’s enthusiasm. Except for the clouds still hiding the mighty, but bashful Alaska Range, conditions were perfect. This trek was 10,000 delights, pure fun! The excitement grew as Lupe reached the area where she had been forced to turn back in 2017.

Not this time!

Happy Lupe on her joyful journey to Peak 3700.

Lupe pressed on. Everything was going great! The American Dingo stayed on the high ground toward the N edge of the ridge. Gradually the tundra became more sparse. The way grew rockier. Lupe crossed one boulder field of white rocks. Nothing too steep or long or difficult.

Peak 3700 was farther than SPHP had believed in 2017, but Loop was getting there!

Lupe wasn’t turning around this time! She kept heading E exploring new territory. Photo looks E.

Getting closer. The **Peak 3700** summit ridge is in sight beyond Lupe. Photo looks E.

Crossing the only boulder field Lupe came to on the entire route. Photo looks E.

Looking back. Lupe had come up mostly along the R (N) side of this very broad ridge. Photo looks W.

Almost there! **Peak 3700** lies directly ahead. Photo looks E.

One more high point to go. Was this really the summit? Yes, it was!

Lupe made it up onto a rather long, rocky ridge 30 to 50 feet wide. This area wasn’t all rocks, there was tundra up here, too. The highest rocks were still a bit farther E. A quick, easy stroll and Lupe had done it! She was poised atop what appeared to be the highest rock on Peak 3700.

Success! After a fabulous journey here, Lupe stands atop **Peak 3700**. Photo looks NE.

Having hoped for this moment ever since Lupe had been forced to turn back in 2017, not knowing if she would ever return, SPHP was thrilled to congratulate Lupe on her grand success. Yet coming here had been so much fun both as a dream and as reality that SPHP felt a touch of sadness that the journey was over.

Well, it certainly had been a grand time, but Lupe wasn’t feeling sad. She was pooped! The Carolina Dog had burnt herself out again with all her enthusiastic exploratory exertions.

Fortunately, right next to the highest rock was a wonderfully convenient Dingo Shelter. It had a soft tundra floor, solid rock walls on 3 sides, and the highest rock on the mountain even overhung it to provide a partial roof. Looper took an immediate liking to it. She curled up there, while SPHP sat on the highest rock gazing out at all the wonders to be seen from Peak 3700 up on K’esugi Ridge.

Lupe, worn out again by all the fun of getting here, curls up in the convenient Dingo Shelter at the top of **Peak 3700**. Photo looks N.

Looking NE along vast **K’esugi Ridge** from Peak 3700.

Like Ermine Hill, Peak 3700 is merely one of a number of significant high points along **K’esugi Ridge**. The trail system offers spectacular day hike and backpacking opportunities, but with the exception of Golog Benchmark, doesn’t visit the most prominent summits. Photo looks SW.

Some of the most fascinating sights from Peak 3700 were of wonders only hinted at today. Although the afternoon had become mostly sunny over K’esugi Ridge, clouds still hid Denali and the Alaska Range. Every now and then, though, the clouds parted enough to offer tantalizing glimpses of mighty white peaks.

Tantalizing glimpses of mighty peaks of the Alaska Range came and went, but today just wasn’t clear enough to ever see more than a hint of what was actually out there.

Even with the help of the telephoto lens, it was often hard to distinguish between the mountains and clouds.

100 yards E of the highest rock, Peak 3700’s summit ridge dropped away sharply. After a short respite in the Dingo Shelter, Loopster decided to accompany SPHP toward that end of the ridge for a look at the Susitna River valley. Lupe could see a huge expanse of Alaskan wilderness.

Looper near the E end of Peak 3700’s summit ridge with a commanding view of the **Susitna River** valley. Photo looks E.

**Susitna River** valley from Peak 3700. Photo looks S.

Looking W toward **Peak 3700**‘s summit from close to the E end of the summit ridge.

Returning to the summit, SPHP realized that from a slightly different perspective, at least a couple of other rocks seemed to be in contention for the title of true summit. Lupe hopped up on a long skinny contender barely wide enough to balance upon.

*OK, now. Hope you’re satisfied, SPHP! Not getting up on any more rocks. You can look around all you want, but I’m going back to the Dingo Shelter for another snooze.* Photo looks SW.

Lupe had seen enough. Running all over mountains is exhausting work! Peak 3700 had a Dingo Shelter and the American Dingo fully intended to return to it! SPHP helped her get comfy. Loop eagerly accepted water and Taste of the Wild. Then, while SPHP sat only a few feet above her on the official highest rock, it was lights out for the Carolina Dog.

*Too bad I haven’t seen a bear up here. I’d crunch it up just like this!*

The Eldridge Glacier covered with tremendous amounts of debris, as seen from Peak 3700. Photo looks NW with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

A glorious hour at the top of Peak 3700 slipped away. Lupe awakened, batteries freshly recharged. She sat for a few minutes with SPHP on the highest rock. The inevitable moment had arrived.

Lupe on Peak 3700’s highest rock. Chulitna River valley on the R. Photo looks WSW.

It was sad to leave Peak 3700, but hours of fun remained. The return trip was a total blast! Downhill nearly the entire way, the American Dingo streaked across the seemingly endless, incredibly gorgeous tundra roaming far and wide, spectacular panoramas on all sides!

Oh, and did Lupe discover a way to avoid taking the K’esugi Ridge trail through the mucky upper marsh on the way back? She did! SPHP was happy to follow her on a detour up onto and along the top of the steep little hill next to the marsh.

It was dark when the Carolina Dog made it back to the G6 at the Ermine Hill trailhead, all tuckered out once more. What a fabulous day it had been, though! Lupe really had returned to K’esugi Ridge. She’d revisited beautiful Ermine Hill, and this time had actually made it to Peak 3700.

Not that any of it had been all that difficult. Quite the contrary! All it had taken was a little cooperation from the weather, and Lupe’s love of adventure. Of course, a few Dingo naps along the way hadn’t hurt a thing, either! (End 10:12 PM, 51°F)