2016 Canadian Rockies, Yukon & Alaska – Page 13 – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

The Worthington Glacier, Alaska (8-11-16)

Days 12 & 13 of Lupe’s Summer of 2016 Dingo Vacation to the Canadian Rockies, Yukon & Alaska.

Lupe’s adventures in the Yukon were done for now. Only yesterday, she’d enjoyed an epic day climbing Mount Decoeli (7,650 ft.) in Kluane National Park. From afar, she had seen Canada’s highest mountain, Mount Logan (19,541 ft.). Today was going to be a well-deserved day of rest for the Carolina Dog. Lupe would spend much of it snoozing in the G6, while SPHP drove N.

Lupe was on her way to Alaska!

Lupe's morning on 8-10-16 started near Kluane Lake in Kluane National Park in the Yukon. Mount Decoeli, which Lupe had climbed the day before, is seen here on the far (L) across Kluane Lake. Photo looks SE. — Lupe’s morning on 8-10-16 started near Kluane Lake in Kluane National Park in the Yukon. Mount Decoeli, which Lupe had climbed the day before, is seen here on the far (L) across Kluane Lake. Photo looks SE.

Lupe at Kluane Lake in the Yukon. Photo looks SSE.

Lupe and SPHP made frequent stops along the way. Sometimes Lupe stopped at scenic highlights. More often, SPHP was forced to stop due to road construction. The Alaska Highway had buckled and heaved in many places. Lupe & SPHP spent a good deal of time following pilot cars across dusty, torn-up, sections of road. All the way, fascinating Yukon scenery was right outside the window of the G6.

Mountains of the Saint Elias range. Not a bad bit of scenery to enjoy while waiting for the pilot car to appear! Photo looks SW.

When Lupe crossed the mighty Donjek River, SPHP was stuck following a pilot car and couldn’t stop. Farther N, she did get to stop and see the White River.

The vast floodplain of the White River. Photo looks downstream toward the NE.

The frost-heaved road, and all the construction made driving slow, but there was no real hurry. By early afternoon, Lupe reached the border crossing from Canada into Alaska. SPHP was disappointed when there was no colorful “Welcome to Alaska!” sign Lupe could pose by, only a dull, wordy, official sign at U.S. customs. Oh well, at least there were no problems crossing the border.

Just being in Alaska was exciting! Lupe had technically already been to a tiny piece of Alaska at Hyder on her way to see the Salmon Glacier, but now she was about to travel hundreds of miles across America’s largest, wildest, and most remote state. The feeling was almost spine-tingling. Who knew what adventures awaited Lupe in the Last Frontier State?

At Tok, Lupe left the Alaska Highway when SPHP turned S on the Tok Cut-off. Near the SW end of the Tok Cut-off, Lupe got to see the Copper River from a high bluff. If there hadn’t been so many clouds, Lupe might also have seen some of the giant snow and ice-capped peaks in Wrangell – St. Elias National Park & Preserve.

Lupe at the Copper River in Alaska. Photo looks W or SW in the downstream direction.

The Copper River from a pullout along the Tok Cut-off. Clouds prevented Lupe from seeing giant snow-capped peaks to the S in Wrangell - St. Elias National Park & Preserve. Photo looks upstream. — The Copper River from a pullout along the Tok Cut-off. Clouds prevented Lupe from seeing giant snow-capped peaks to the S in Wrangell – St. Elias National Park & Preserve. Photo looks upstream.

Near Gulkana, Lupe reached the Richardson Highway (No. 4). SPHP took it going S toward Valdez. By late evening, Lupe was approaching the Worthington Glacier. It was an impressive sight, even from the highway!

Upper reaches of the Worthington Glacier as seen from the Richardson Highway. Photo looks WSW.

Worthington Glacier. Photo looks WSW using the telephoto lens.

Lupe’s long day of rest traveling through the Yukon into Alaska was almost over. Tomorrow she would have several options, among them the Worthington Glacier Ridge Trail. Where she would go would be decided tomorrow morning. Until then, Lupe and SPHP settled in for the night.

The next morning did not bring good news. The sky was socked in with low clouds. A light mist was falling. Conditions did not seem conducive to a hike near the Worthington Glacier. SPHP drove over Thompson Pass toward Valdez. In Keystone Canyon, many amazing, beautiful waterfalls tumbled down the mountainsides. Lupe stopped briefly for a closer look at Bridal Veil Falls and Horsetail Falls.

Lupe at the base of Horsetail Falls. Both Bridal Veil Falls and Horsetail Falls can be viewed from pullouts along the Richardson Highway in Keystone Canyon on the way to Valdez. They are no more than 0.5 mile apart, but on opposite sides of the highway.

By the time Lupe reached Valdez, it was raining harder. The rain wasn’t heavy, but it was steady. With the rain falling, there wasn’t any urgency to do anything outdoors. SPHP dropped by the local Safeway store, and bought a roasted chicken to share with Lupe. Oddly, she wasn’t hungry. She refused any chicken. That seemed strange, but OK. Lupe and SPHP watched the rain fall, while SPHP consumed part of the chicken.

It was soon apparent why Lupe didn’t want any chicken. Without warning, she threw up. Poor, Loopster wasn’t feeling well! SPHP cleaned up her soiled blanket, then took Lupe out for a short walk in the rain to let her get anything else bad out of her system. She seemed to feel better.

There were a couple of awesome adventures near Valdez that SPHP was hoping Lupe might be able to do. One was to take the trail to Shoup Bay to see the Shoup Glacier and Kittiwake rookery. To do the whole trail was a long day hike, but maybe Lupe could do it tomorrow, if the weather cleared up.

The other adventure had been suggested by Richard Baker, whom Lupe had met on Mount Decoeli in the Yukon. Richard had highly recommended taking a cruise on Prince William Sound aboard the Lu-Lu Belle to see the Columbia Glacier, the second largest tidewater glacier in North America. Whales, eagles and other wildlife are sometimes seen from the Lu-Lu Belle, too.

Lupe had to wait in the G6, while SPHP went into the Lu-Lu Belle office to inquire about the Columbia Glacier tour. The receptionist was very courteous and friendly. She said the Lu-Lu Belle goes to the Columbia Glacier every day in season, pretty much regardless of the weather. The cost was $125 per person for an approximately 7 hour long tour aboard the luxury yacht.

It all sounded wonderful! Time for the big question. What about Lupe? Bad news. Lupe couldn’t go. They had dog-sitting services available, but the tour was a no-go for poor Looper.

No doubt it would have been a fantastic excursion, but if Lupe wasn’t going on the Lu-Lu Belle, neither was SPHP. This isn’t The (Mostly) True Adventures of SPHP, you know! So that was that, but before leaving the Lu-Lu Belle office, SPHP asked about the weather forecast.

The receptionist looked up the Valdez forecast on her computer. 100% chance of rain today and each of the next four days, then dropping to only 80%, 70%, and 40% for the three following days. She then said it had already been raining in Valdez for 3 straight weeks.

Yikes! That changed everything. Lupe and SPHP were willing to wait out a day or two of poor weather, but sitting around for more than a whole week of rain made no sense. SPHP returned to Lupe with the glum news. No Lu-Lu Belle, no Shoup Glacier, no Worthington Glacier. What to do?

If the Alaskan coast was going to be socked in with rain for another week or more, the only thing SPHP could think of doing was to head back inland. It meant Lupe wouldn’t get to do any of the cool stuff near Valdez on this trip, but Alaska is a huge place. There were other adventures in store for Lupe elsewhere.

Unfortunately, there was no point in hanging around Valdez. Amid rain and mist, Lupe and SPHP left town to start the long drive inland again on the Richardson Highway. Once again, Lupe traveled along the Lowe River, up Keystone Canyon, past Horsetail, Bridal Veil, and lots of other gorgeous waterfalls. She crossed Thompson Pass, and took a last glance at the Worthington Glacier as SPHP drove on by.

Wait a minute! The sky was still completely overcast, but only the tops of the mountains were in the clouds. The Worthington Glacier was in view. It was barely misting here. SPHP turned the G6 around. Lupe was going to get to see the Worthington Glacier after all! If the rain would hold off for only a few hours, a little mist wouldn’t stop an American Dingo!

SPHP drove back to the Worthington Glacier State Recreation Site. A dozen other vehicles were in the parking lot. People were coming and going. Nearly all of them were taking the short nature trail down to a viewpoint where the toe of the glacier could be seen. Nice, but not what Lupe had come for.

Lupe was here to take the much longer Worthington Glacier Ridge Trail, which goes W for a mile and a half, or more, on a ridge S of the glacier. Lupe and SPHP could see a couple hikers coming down the ridge trail. When they got to the start of the trail at the parking lot, SPHP talked to them. How were conditions up on the ridge? How far had they gone? Was anyone else up there right now?

Conditions were cloudy, a bit damp and rainy at times. They had made it all the way to what they considered the end of the trail. The glacier views were spectacular. Not another soul was up on the trail now. They were the last ones down.

Wonderful, that settled it! Lupe and SPHP started up the ridge.

Lupe starts up the Worthington Glacier Ridge Trail. Photo looks W.

The Worthington Glacier Ridge Trail began climbing along the top of a very narrow ridge with steep sides. To the S (L) was a very green valley of mixed alder and tundra. To the N (R) was the valley the Worthington Glacier flows down. The trail followed the ridgeline W. As Lupe gained elevation, the views of the Worthington Glacier up ahead became progressively more impressive.

The very green mixed alder and tundra valley on the S (L) side of the trail is shown well here. Part of the trail leaves the ridge near unstable cliffs to travel safely through this valley a little way before returning to the ridge. Lupe loved the green valley, but there were mosquitoes down there. They weren't too bad. Up on the ridge, a breeze blew them away. Photo looks W. — The very green mixed alder and tundra valley on the S (L) side of the trail is shown well here. Part of the trail leaves the ridge near unstable cliffs to travel safely through this valley a little way before returning to the ridge. Lupe loved the green valley, but there were mosquitoes down there. They weren’t too bad. Up on the ridge, a breeze blew them away. Photo looks W.

As Lupe climbed, the views of the Worthington Glacier steadily improved. The big rounded hump seen ahead on the L looked like it might be the end of the trail. Photo looks WNW.

The Worthington Glacier has two arms, separated by the ridge of rock seen on the upper R. Near the lower end of the glacier, both arms drop steeply as seen here. A little farther up, the glacier is one big river of ice. Photo looks NW.

Gotta love that beautiful blue glacier ice!

The ridge trail left the ridge temporarily to bypass dangerous cliffs. It entered the green valley of mixed alders and tundra. There were a few mosquitoes down here to deal with, but they weren’t too bad. They were pretty much limited to the valley on this day. A breeze kept them from being much of a bother up on the ridge.

Lupe loved the green valley! SPHP thought it was great, too. The valley was full of wildflowers. The tiny, delicate plants growing on the tundra were fascinating. They were so incredibly varied and colorful!

Bright wildflowers in the lush green valley S of the ridge.

For Lupe, the beautiful green valley was one of her favorite parts of the whole Worthington Glacier Ridge Trail. The glacier isn't in view here, but it can be seen from virtually everywhere else on the ridge trail. Lupe was completely convinced the wildflowers and tundra were worth seeing, too! Photo looks E. — For Lupe, the beautiful green valley was one of her favorite parts of the whole Worthington Glacier Ridge Trail. The glacier isn’t in view here, but it can be seen from virtually everywhere else on the ridge trail. Lupe was completely convinced the wildflowers and tundra were worth seeing, too! Photo looks E.

Delicate, vibrant little plants of the tundra. They were only an inch or two high.

Before long, the trail left Lupe’s lush, green valley and returned to the ridge. The Worthington Glacier was always in view from here on. The trail headed up toward a high, barren, rounded mound of dark colored soil and rock. It looked like that hill might be the end of the trail. The climb up to the top was steep!

Back on the ridge again, the Worthington Glacier was always in view.

Lovely blue crevasses as seen with a little help from the telephoto lens.

As Lupe climbed the last high, barren, rounded hill, she had this view of the Worthington Glacier as a single river of ice above where the glacier split in two. Photo looks WNW.

Near the top of the last high, barren, rounded hill. From below, this hill looked like it might be the end of the trail. Maybe it is the end of the formal trail, but Lupe found out it was possible to go quite a long way farther. Cairns showed the way. Photo looks W.

Lupe reached the top of the high, barren, rounded hill. The trail leveled out and went right on over it. At first, SPHP wasn’t certain if the trail continued or not. Lupe and SPHP left the ridgeline to explore farther W along the N side of a mountain. Others had been this way, too. The terrain was rocky and uneven. There was no longer a distinct, continuous trail, but now and then Lupe came to cairns along the way.

Part of the time, Lupe was traveling over relatively level, wide, rock shelves. Other times, she had to climb steep slopes. Lupe passed by occasional bright patches of wildflowers. Some places bright green moss clung to dark rocks next to trickling waterfalls. To the S was the mountain. To the N, Lupe looked down upon the Worthington Glacier. And to the W, Lupe’s route rose toward a white, gray and black world of clouds, snow, ice, and dark earth.

As Lupe explored farther W above the Worthington Glacier, she sometimes came to colorful patches of wildflowers in an otherwise bleak world. Photo looks WNW.

Wildflowers bring a splash of color to the Worthington Glacier.

A mighty American Dingo explores the harsh environment of the Worthington Glacier! Actually, the worst Lupe had to face was some light rain and heavy mist that came and went. The temperature wasn't that bad, either - maybe in the upper 40's °F. Photo looks WNW. — A mighty American Dingo explores the harsh environment of the Worthington Glacier! Actually, the worst Lupe had to face was some light rain and heavy mist that came and went. The temperature wasn’t that bad, either – maybe in the upper 40’s °F. Photo looks WNW.

A glacial tsunami surges over the lip of a vast bowl of snow and ice above. Lupe had seen what was higher up from the Richardson Highway yesterday evening, but the upper part of the glacier wasn't visible now. Photo looks WNW. — A glacial tsunami surges over the lip of a vast bowl of snow and ice above. Lupe had seen what was higher up from the Richardson Highway yesterday evening, but the upper part of the glacier wasn’t visible now. Photo looks WNW.

A really big cairn beckons, showing the way ahead. Photo looks W.

Lupe reaches the really big cairn. She kept going for a considerable distance from here. Smaller cairns continued to confirm her route. Photo looks NW.

After traveling a considerable distance along the mountainside, Lupe reached a really big cairn at a high point. SPHP thought maybe the big cairn meant Lupe was getting close to the end of how far she was going to be able to go W.

This wasn’t the end yet, though. Onward! The slope of the terrain lessened. Lupe still had to climb some, but gained elevation more slowly than before. The bold, damp Carolina Dog went on and on. Small cairns marked the route. The farther Lupe went, the more streams of rain and meltwater she encountered pouring over the rocks.

At last, it could be seen that Lupe was nearing a point where she would be surrounded by snow and ice on 3 sides.

Through light rain and mist, Lupe presses on toward the end. Soon she would be surrounded by snow and ice on 3 sides. Photo looks W.

Lupe reached the end of how far she could go W. The view was stupendous, even on a cloudy, drizzly day. Beneath the misty clouds, the sense of grandeur, solitude, and isolation was supreme. Snow, ice, mist, and dark rocks comprised the whole visible world.

To the SW, a big patch of pink snow was close at hand. SPHP was chilly enough, but the hot-blooded Carolina Dog thought a frolic on the snow would be fun!

A hot-blooded Carolina Dog frolics on a patch of pink snow at the end of the line. The glacier, no doubt, melted a little more from this abuse.

Looking back down the Worthington Glacier from close to the W end of Lupe's advance. The Richardson Highway is seen far below. Photo looks ENE. — Looking back down the Worthington Glacier from close to the W end of Lupe’s advance. The Richardson Highway is seen far below. Photo looks ENE.

Lupe at the end of the line. The Worthington Glacier flows down from higher still, but this was as far as Lupe could go. Photo looks NW.

After the Carolina Dog had cooled down sufficiently, Lupe and SPHP stood at the final high point Lupe reached, contemplating the Worthington Glacier and enjoying this rare, exquisite moment.

As SPHP looked around, it looked like Lupe might be able to go back to the SE, and climb 200 feet higher on the mountainside above. Any higher up than that, the mountain was buried beneath deep, pristine snow. Lupe might have seen more from up on the mountainside, but SPHP decided against it.

On a clear, bright day, the additional climb would have been worth it, but everything was wet and slippery now. A cold, light rain was falling. Even if Lupe had climbed higher, clouds and fog might easily have negated any benefit. In truth, Lupe was lucky the weather had cooperated enough to let her get this far. She’d had an unexpectedly wonderful day.

Lupe and SPHP stayed for a while at the far W end of Lupe's advance contemplating this slow-moving river of ancient ice and snow known as the Worthington Glacier. Photo looks NW. — Lupe and SPHP stayed for a while at the far W end of Lupe’s advance contemplating this slow-moving river of ancient ice and snow known as the Worthington Glacier. Photo looks NW.

Lupe thinking deep thoughts at the end of the line – *There hasn’t been a squirrel here in 25,000 years!*

Lupe stands near the small cairn at the end of her Worthington Glacier exploration. Photo looks NE.

There was only one way back, which was to retrace Lupe’s entire route up here. Of course, going in the reverse direction provided a different perspective. One thing didn’t change. Lupe continued sniffing and exploring. Even SPHP stopped to examine a few details along the way.

Bright green moss grew near trickling waterfalls.

The really big cairn is seen ahead, this time to the E.

Lupe explores near a patch of wildflowers. At least there was something worth sniffing! Photo looks E.

Don't jump, Loop! You forgot your SUPER DINGO cape! — *Don’t jump, Loop! You forgot your SUPER DINGO cape!*

Looking NE. The weather wasn't really improving on the return trip. — Looking NE. The weather wasn’t really improving on the return trip.

Lupe back on the Worthington Glacier Ridge Trail on top of the high, barren hill. Photo looks ENE.

Uh, Lupe did mention that the route up the high, barren, rounded hill was sort of steep, didn't she? Photo looks E. — Uh, Lupe did mention that the route up the high, barren, rounded hill was sort of steep, didn’t she? Photo looks E.

What makes that glacial blue so appealing, anyway?

Four or five hours after she’d left, Lupe was back at the G6. Her adventure on the Worthington Glacier Ridge Trail had been a very worthwhile success! SPHP was so glad she’d done it!

The long trek had cured any remaining queasiness from earlier in the day. Lupe was famished! She made up for having missed breakfast by doing more than her fair share helping SPHP devour every last bit of the leftover roasted chicken. Once full of chicken, Lupe felt a tad sleepy.

Full of roasted chicken, Lupe passed out in the G6.

Digesting all that chicken took awhile. Lupe had a nice long Dingo nap. By the time she woke up, it was evening. There was still time, though, to take the short nature trail to the viewpoint looking up at the S toe of the Worthington Glacier from below.

The trail to the viewpoint took only a few minutes. There were, however, unofficial trails that people had made going closer to the glacier. Naturally, Lupe and SPHP thought it a good idea to go find out what could be seen along them.

The unofficial trails were wet, muddy and slick. They climbed an incredible jumble of rocks. The terrain looked like an explosion had taken place. Of course, there hadn’t been any explosion. The rocks were just as they had been unceremoniously dumped at the not-too-long-ago terminal moraine of the Worthington Glacier.

Among the rocky debris left by the retreat of the Worthington Glacier. Photo looks W.

Lupe got close enough to see the toe of the glacier. Photo looks W.

S toe of the Worthington Glacier in Alaska.

After scrambling over the jumble of rock close enough to get a good look at the S toe of the glacier, there was one more thing to go see. Earlier, on the way back to the G6, while Lupe was still way up high on the ridge trail, SPHP had noticed a very long stream of water cascading down the lower N side of the Worthington Glacier valley.

From above, the stream of water had presented a rather bizarre optical illusion. It looked like the water cascaded up and over a ridge of solid rock! Simply impossible, but that was how it had looked to SPHP. Lupe wasn’t far now from the bottom of that stream. Time to go take a closer look!

Lupe at the bottom of the anti-gravity waterfall. Everything was normal, the water fell down, not up. Photo looks N.

When Lupe got to the base of the falls, everything was normal. The water fell down, not up. Which is how it should be, and always will be. The mystery wasn’t completely solved for SPHP, because the part of the long stream that had seemed to cascade uphill was out of sight much higher up. Illusion that it no doubt was, this stream had earned the nickname “Anti-gravity Creek” as far as SPHP was concerned.

It had been quite a day at the Worthington Glacier for Loopster, but it was getting dark. The rain was starting up again. Almost back at the G6, SPHP thought of one more thing Lupe might want to check out. When SPHP turned and headed toward the glacier once more, Lupe let out a single, no-nonsense woof!

She’d had enough! Time to dry off and get some shut-eye! Meekly, SPHP obeyed. Back to the G6. Sometimes Dingoes know best!

*SPHP, you might want to have your eyes checked! Water falls down, got that? Down!*

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Decoeli, Kluane National Park, Yukon Territory, Canada (8-9-16)

Day 11 of Lupe’s Summer of 2016 Dingo Vacation to the Canadian Rockies, Yukon & Alaska.

No matter what hour of the night Lupe woke up, there was light in the northern sky. Twilight moved slowly around the horizon, but never completely disappeared. Lupe was N, as far N as she had ever been in her life. Beyond huge, dark Kluane Lake, a line of mysterious unknown mountains marched away to the Arctic. It all seemed surreal, but Lupe really was here, in the fabled Yukon!

Two days ago, Lupe had climbed her first peak in the Yukon, King’s Throne Peak (6,529 ft.) in Kluane National Park. It had been a long, hard climb in powerful, swirling winds, but Lupe had made it to the top. She had been rewarded with spectacular views of Kathleen Lake, Louise Lake and mountains of the Saint Elias range.

From King’s Throne Peak, Lupe had seen another peak off to the NW, the mountain she would attempt to climb today – Mount Decoeli (7,650 ft.). If Lupe could reach the summit of Decoeli, it was possible she would get to see the highest mountain in Canada, Mount Logan (19,541 ft.), far off to the WSW!

At some point, the long twilight became a long dawn, as the sun started sneaking back up toward the horizon again. Twenty minutes after the sun finally appeared (6:30 AM, 39°F), Lupe was at the long, paved pullout on the W side of the Alaska Highway that serves as the trailhead for the trek to Decoeli. No one else was here. The G6 was alone in the huge parking area.

At 7:23 AM, all was ready. Lupe and SPHP left the pullout heading S to a cairn marking the start of the route to Decoeli. Nearby an old jeep trail headed SW into a forest of stunted trees and tall soapberry bushes. Lupe and SPHP followed the jeep trail, which soon met another similar road coming from the E. Lupe took the new road W. Mount Decoeli was in sight up ahead.

Mount Decoeli from along the jeep trail. Photo looks WSW using the telephoto lens.

About a kilometer from the Alaska Highway, the road ended at Summit Creek. From here, Lupe’s route followed Summit Creek upstream. The creek led Lupe toward a still unseen rock glacier S of Mount Decoeli.

Lupe reaches Summit Creek at the end of the road. From here, Lupe followed the creek upstream toward a still unseen rock glacier at the base of the snow streaked mountain on the L. Lupe's objective, the summit of Decoeli, is seen on the R. Photo looks WSW. — Lupe reaches Summit Creek at the end of the road. From here, Lupe followed the creek upstream toward a still unseen rock glacier at the base of the snow streaked mountain on the L. Lupe’s objective, the summit of Decoeli, is seen on the R. Photo looks WSW.

Summit Creek was running low, but not low enough for SPHP to cross without getting wet feet. Lupe and SPHP stayed on the S side of the creek for as long as possible. It was generally easiest to simply travel right up the creek bed. However, Summit Creek often ran right along the S bank of the stream channel, forcing Lupe and SPHP up into the bushes above the bank.

At first, there were usually some pretty decent trails to follow through the brush, but as Lupe got farther and farther upstream, these trails deteriorated, becoming hard to find and follow. The jungle of bushes was so dense, it was almost impossible to make any headway where there wasn’t some kind of path.

Being in the tall bushes made SPHP increasingly nervous. Nothing more than a few feet away was in view. With the stream babbling along close by, it wasn’t easy to hear anything else. SPHP kept up a lively, loud conversation with Lupe, counting on Lupe to give some warning if she smelled bears in the area.

After being repeatedly forced up into the jungle, SPHP finally decided enough was enough! Lupe and SPHP forded Summit Creek, and stayed out in the open on the wide, rocky creek bed.

Of course, fording the stream meant SPHP’s feet were now soaking wet. They stayed that way. Summit Creek kept insisting upon flowing back and forth all the way from one side of the stream channel to the other, so Lupe and SPHP had to keep crossing the creek. Nevertheless, Lupe’s upstream progress was much faster out on the rocks. Furthermore, if any bears were in the area, at least out on the creek bed they could be seen well before coming right up on them.

After a long trek, Lupe could see the rock glacier S of Decoeli up ahead.

The rock glacier is now in view below the snow-streaked mountain up ahead. Photo looks WSW.

By the time Lupe reached the toe of the rock glacier, the dense jungle of bushes on the banks of Summit Creek was gone. Lupe left the creek bed to start climbing the green, mossy slope on the N bank. A trail showed others had taken this route before. Lupe liked being out on the spongy, mossy slope a lot better than being down on the rocky stream bed.

Lupe nears the toe of the rock glacier. About the time she reached it, she left the creek bed to follow a trail up the mossy slope on the R. Photo looks WSW.

Lupe greatly preferred being on this spongy, mossy ground. She would eventually climb from the little knob seen on the ridgeline at (Center), up to the summit of Mount Decoeli on the R. Photo looks NW.

Lupe had already gained a fair amount of elevation on the long, gentle trek up Summit Creek to the rock glacier. Now that she had left the creek bed, though, things were about to get a lot steeper! Photo looks NW.

Only a few minutes after Lupe left the creek bed, SPHP heard voices. Looking back, two people and a big brown dog were in sight not too far away. They were moving fast, coming up the creek bed, just like Lupe and SPHP had.

Lupe’s route was much steeper up on the green, spongy ground, than it had been down by Summit Creek. Rather than turn NW directly up the steep slope, it seemed best to follow the trail W for a little while making a more gradual climb. Lupe had already crossed a big ravine and gained a fair amount of elevation above the rock glacier, by the time the two hikers and their dog overtook SPHP.

Two hikers and their big brown dog overtook SPHP near this point. Photo looks SW over the rock glacier.

The two hikers were Milo and Ben, from Smithers, British Columbia, with their dog, Lucca. Lucca was bigger than Lupe, and not too sociable. Lucca growled menacingly. Lupe wisely kept her distance. Milo, Ben and SPHP had a brief, friendly conversation.

Had Lupe and SPHP seen the grizzly bear? Uh, no. What grizzly bear? Where? Milo and Ben said they had come across a huge, steaming, fresh grizzly scat at the junction of the two roads leading to Summit Creek. Shortly after that, they saw the grizzly. Fortunately, it just ambled off into the bushes where they lost sight of it.

SPHP was certain that a giant steaming bear scat hadn’t been at the road intersection when Lupe passed by. Even if SPHP hadn’t noticed it, Lupe certainly would have! The bear must have been fairly close by, though, for it to come through before Milo and Ben showed up. Yeah, avoiding the bushes, and staying out on the rocks on the wide Summit Creek channel was definitely the way to go on the way back!

All resumed the climb up Decoeli. Milo, Ben and Luca were soon well ahead of Lupe and SPHP. Everyone had turned NW going directly up the steep slope. For a little way farther, the ground was still covered with nice spongy, green plants. Pretty soon, though, Lupe reached rocky ground again. From here on, Lupe faced a long, steep climb up very loose scree mixed with occasional large rocks.

Lupe reaches the scree. She isn't to the steepest part of the climb quite yet. Worryingly, a cloud had appeared, and now clung to the summit of Decoeli. Photo looks NW. — Lupe reaches the scree. She isn’t to the steepest part of the climb quite yet. Worryingly, a cloud had appeared, and now clung to the summit of Decoeli. Photo looks NW.

Lupe on her way up Decoeli. She went over the orange-tan colored knob beyond her, and then climbed toward the saddle seen L of Center on the ridge. Photo looks NW.

Although most of the sky was clear, a worrisome cloud formed and grew around the summit of Decoeli. It hung around for a while, but eventually blew away to the E. In the meantime, Lupe was making steady progress up Decoeli. She was now approaching the most challenging part of the climb.

Lupe and SPHP reached a long, incredibly steep, scree slope. The climb became rather unnerving. Virtually everything was loose. With each step up, the mountain gave way. Rocks slid and careened down the mountain from under SPHP’s feet. Now and then, entire areas began to slide, taking SPHP sliding back down, too, before stabilizing. Nothing wanted to hold. It was like trying to navigate a river of rock flowing in the opposite direction.

Most of the few large rocks on the slope were loose, too. SPHP avoided coming up directly below them. Even Lupe was causing showers of rocks to tumble, sometimes bounding hundreds of feet down the mountain. It was dangerous for Lupe and SPHP to be directly above or below each other, for fear of the projectiles being released from above.

Lupe on the scary steep scree slope. The American Dingo was doing fine. She was heading for the saddle just L of Center. Photo looks NW.

Lupe headed up toward large rock formations along the ridge to the WNW. She gained elevation relentlessly. The view back down the precipitous scree slope toward the rock glacier was tremendous. Lupe was as calm as ever. SPHP, however, found it better not to look down too long upon the dizzying scene.

Lupe nears the first big rock formation. No wonder the Carolina Dog was so calm on this steep scree slope – she was keeping her eyes closed! Photo looks WNW.

Lupe reached the top of the first big rock formation. On a small area of relatively level terra firma, Lupe and SPHP took a break. At Summit Creek, the air had been calm, but up here a cool breeze was blowing. The views were already fantastic, even though Lupe still had a considerable climb ahead. Lupe and SPHP relaxed for 10 minutes, recovering from the ordeal on the treacherous scree slope.

Lupe at the first rock formation above the treacherous scree slope. Photo looks S toward the rock glacier, now many hundreds of feet below.

Lupe was now on the ridge that had been visible from below. Another, longer ridge was in view off to the W. The longer ridge looked like it might very well have been a considerably easier route up. Perhaps Lupe should have stayed down near the rock glacier longer, following it farther SW before turning N to start her climb. Maybe she should take that ridge on the way back down?

The long, low ridge seen beyond Lupe would have been a much easier route up Decoeli. To get to it, Lupe would have had to follow the rock glacier farther SW before turning N to start her climb. Photo looks W.

Off to the NW, SPHP saw another climber! He was at about Lupe’s level. Apparently, he had come up somewhere along that longer ridge, thereby avoiding the super steep, scree slope. This new climber also saw SPHP, and waved. SPHP waved back. No doubt, Lupe would get to meet him at the top of the mountain.

Lupe continued her climb up Decoeli. She was now traveling up the ridgeline, no longer on the scree slope. The ridge was still very rocky, and quite steep, but the rocks were more stable than before. Soon, Lupe came to another rock formation where there was a small patch of level ground.

Lupe reaches a 2nd rock formation along the ridgeline. There was a little level ground here, but Lupe still faced a fairly long climb to reach the top of Decoeli. Photo looks NW.

Lupe was getting closer to the top of Decoeli. She still had to gain hundreds of feet of elevation, but the nature of the climb was changing. The slope ahead, while still steep, was broader and covered with talus. The large rocks were much more stable. Projectiles were no longer being released with every step.

Lupe and SPHP toiled upward. A cold W wind was blowing. The sky overhead was a clear, brilliant blue. The slope diminished. A weather vane, spinning rapidly, came into view. Beyond it, a silver metal shack perched atop the mountain. Milo, Ben and the new climber were all there, engaged in conversation. Weary, Lucca had collapsed on the rocks. She didn’t stir at all, as Lupe went by.

After gaining nearly 4,400 ft. of elevation, Lupe had made it to the top of Decoeli (7,650 ft.)! The views were fantastic, but disappointingly, off to the WSW, there were clouds in the direction where Mount Logan should be. High, snowy peaks were partially in view, but many summits were not.

Far to the WSW, partially shrouded by clouds, were giant snowy peaks of the Saint Elias range. This photo was taken as Lupe arrived at the summit of Decoeli. Even a partial view was a stirring sight! SPHP wondered if Lupe was gazing upon Mount Logan, the highest peak in all of Canada, among the distant giants she could see? Photo taken with the telephoto lens.

Milo and Ben chat with Richard Baker. Poor, exhausted Lucca was passed out on the rocks. Photo looks WNW.

After a few minutes gazing at the amazing views, Lupe and SPHP went to see Ben, Milo, and Lucca and meet the other climber. He was Richard Baker, owner of a seasonal window cleaning business in Tucson, Arizona. Richard was quite animated, and busy expounding upon his philosophy of life among other topics.

Milo and Ben were telling the tale of the grizzly bear. Richard couldn’t believe he hadn’t seen the bear scat, or noticed the grizzly. He is normally very wary in bear country, and was well-equipped with bear spray and other protective devices.

Milo and Ben were both wearing shorts, and feeling a bit uncomfortable in the cold breeze. Since they intended to start back down soon, it was time for a photo op with them at the summit cairn. Milo said they had just built the cairn higher while Lupe was coming up Decoeli, which explained it’s magnificently balanced slender height.

Ben (L) and Milo (R) at the newly improved Decoeli summit cairn with their dog, Lucca, and Lupe. Ben is 16, and in school. Milo is 50, and works in the lumber industry. They were all from Smithers, British Columbia. They had been climbing mountains on 5 of the past 7 days. Like Lupe, they had also been to King's Throne. Photo looks S. — Ben (L) and Milo (R) at the newly improved Decoeli summit cairn with their dog, Lucca, and Lupe. Ben is 16, and in school. Milo is 50, and works in the lumber industry. They were all from Smithers, British Columbia. They had been climbing mountains on 5 of the past 7 days. Like Lupe, they had also been to King’s Throne. Photo looks S.

Spurred on by the cold wind, Milo, Ben and Lucca started down Decoeli. Lupe did not see them again. Richard, Lupe and SPHP were in no hurry to leave. Richard and SPHP chatted while admiring the views. Gradually, the clouds were lifting in the W! Many towering ice-clad mountains were in sight. Richard shared his binoculars with SPHP.

Both Richard and SPHP wondered whether or not Mount Logan was in sight, and if so, which giant peak it might be. Richard thought it was one farther to the N than SPHP believed. In truth, neither Richard nor SPHP really knew, but it was fun to speculate. It remained a pretty good bet that Lupe was seeing Mount Logan somewhere over there!

Lupe scans distant giants of snow and ice from Decoeli. Somewhere over there was Mount Logan, the highest peak in all of Canada, and 2nd highest peak in North America! SPHP believes Lupe did see Mount Logan, even though neither Richard nor SPHP knew exactly which peak was it. Photo looks WSW.

SPHP believes the highest mountain at Center is Mount Cairns (9,186 ft.). Photo looks WNW. — SPHP believes the highest mountain at Center is **Mount Cairns (9,186 ft.)**. Photo looks WNW.

Looking SE from Decoeli. Two large lakes are seen faintly on the L. Kathleen Lake is the closest. Dezadeash Lake is the more distant. The long slope rising to the R from between them is the NE ridge that Lupe climbed 2 days earlier to reach the summit of King's Throne (6,529 ft.), which is barely in view. — Looking SE from Decoeli. Two large lakes are seen faintly on the L. Kathleen Lake is the closest. Dezadeash Lake is the more distant. The long slope rising to the R from between them is the NE ridge that Lupe climbed 2 days earlier to reach the summit of King’s Throne (6,529 ft.), which is barely in view.

Kluane Lake from Decoeli. Photo looks NW.

Gradually, the clouds to the W lifted, allowing a better view of the stunning, distant peaks of the Saint Elias range. Neither Richard nor SPHP knew the names of any of them, but nevertheless, they were an inspiring sight! Photo looks W.

A world of snow and ice. Was that huge snowy ramp on the R, Mt. Logan? It was SPHP's favorite candidate. It would be fun to know the truth! Photo looks WSW using the telephoto lens. — A world of snow and ice. Was that huge snowy ramp on the R, Mt. Logan? It was SPHP’s favorite candidate. It would be fun to know the truth! Photo looks WSW using the telephoto lens.

Mount Logan? No one knew. It's some grand and massive peak, for certain! Photo looks WSW using the telephoto lens. — Mount Logan? No one knew. It’s some grand and massive peak, for certain! Photo looks WSW using the telephoto lens.

More spectacular high peaks. Photo looks W.

A lofty white peak R of Center looks almost made of clouds. But what's that slope on the L? It was hard to tell if it was a cloud or part of some colossal mountain. Photo looks W. — A lofty white peak R of Center looks almost made of clouds. But what’s that slope on the L? It was hard to tell if it was a cloud or part of some colossal mountain. Photo looks W.

Richard and SPHP spent so long taking turns looking through the binoculars, that Lupe became a bit bored with it all. She was tired of standing around, and disliked the cold wind. Lupe had water, some Taste of the Wild, and curled up on as flat a spot as she could find. SPHP covered her with a jacket to help her keep warm.

Richard Baker on Decoeli. Richard was quite animated and friendly. He shared his binoculars and philosophy with SPHP. Richard’s window cleaning business in Tucson, AZ is seasonal enough to permit him time to travel and climb mountains part of the year.

After Lupe and SPHP had been at the summit for 50 minutes, Richard announced that he was ready to head down. Lupe and SPHP remained on top of Decoeli alone a little longer for a last look around. The views remained simply astounding! Climbing Decoeli had been a challenging, yet magnificently rewarding experience.

Lupe not far from the Decoeli summit cairn for the last time. Photo looks S.

The best route down Decoeli passes to the R of the small prominence seen L of Center overlooking the rock glacier. Photo looks S..

Richard Baker starts down Decoeli. Mount Cairnes is in view at Center. Photo looks WNW.

Sadly, it was time to move on. Lupe and SPHP set off following Richard down the mountain. This time, Lupe stayed on the longer ridge going SSW. The first part of the descent down the talus slope was still quite steep and slow, but by staying on the SSW ridge, Lupe was able to avoid having to go down the treacherous scree slope to the SE where she and SPHP had come up.

Richard was leading the way, taking the same long SSW ridge. Even this route was steep enough so SPHP had to be careful not to send rocks bounding down the mountain toward him. Several times SPHP had to shout a warning.

The SSW ridge led down toward a wide saddle. The rock glacier Lupe would eventually have to turn toward is out of sight farther down to the L. Although this route wasn't as difficult as the scree slope Lupe and SPHP climbed going up, it was still plenty steep. Richard can be seen ahead. SPHP had to be careful not to send loose rocks bounding down the mountain at him. Photo looks SSW. — The SSW ridge led down toward a wide saddle. The rock glacier Lupe would eventually have to turn toward is out of sight farther down to the L. Although this route wasn’t as difficult as the scree slope Lupe and SPHP climbed going up, it was still plenty steep. Richard can be seen ahead. SPHP had to be careful not to send loose rocks bounding down the mountain at him. Photo looks SSW.

Unnamed peaks beyond the saddle SSW of Decoeli. Photo looks SSW.

Partly out of fear of rocks hurtling down the mountain, Richard stopped off to the side long enough to let Lupe and SPHP catch up. While climbing Decoeli, Richard had originally come up from the SE to reach this broad, gentler slope on the long SSW ridge. He had also had to climb up a steep, scree slope on the way, but not for nearly as far as Lupe.

Ahead was a small prominence overlooking the rock glacier to the S. The question was whether to start down to the SE now, or circle around the W side of the prominence? After a little discussion and scouting around, it was decided to go the long way around the W side. There were numerous sheep trails Lupe could follow in this area.

Going down around the prominence overlooking the rock glacier. The top of the prominence is out of sight up the L slope. Richard leads the way, while Lupe wonders what's keeping SPHP? The rock glacier is in view ahead. Photo looks SSE. — Going down around the prominence overlooking the rock glacier. The top of the prominence is out of sight up the L slope. Richard leads the way, while Lupe wonders what’s keeping SPHP? The rock glacier is in view ahead. Photo looks SSE.

Looking SSE at the mountains beyond the rock glacier. It's possible the more distant peak on the L is Mount Archibald (8,491 ft.), but SPHP isn't certain. — Looking SSE at the mountains beyond the rock glacier. It’s possible the more distant peak on the L is **Mount Archibald (8,491 ft.)**, but SPHP isn’t certain.

Lupe on her way down Decoeli. Photo looks N.

Eventually, Lupe, Richard and SPHP all arrived down at the rock glacier. Up close, it was possible to see there really was melting snow and glacial ice under all the rock.

Richard, Lupe and SPHP all started the journey NE toward the rock glacier’s toe. The terrain along the NW side of the glacier was often rough and broken. After staying near the glacier’s edge for a while, SPHP tried leading Lupe up a steep bank to a green, spongy area overlooking the glacier. This maneuver did not help. Lupe quickly arrived at a ravine leading right back down to the glacier.

Richard had stayed down by the rock glacier. He forged ahead, while Lupe and SPHP navigated the ravine. By the time Lupe reached the toe of the glacier, Richard was out of sight somewhere down Summit Creek.

Lupe and SPHP made great progress going down the wide, rock-strewn Summit Creek channel. This time, SPHP didn’t hesitate to simply ford the creek whenever necessary. Every now and then, Lupe caught sight of Richard far ahead. The long trek down the creek bed was actually quite easy and fun. Lupe and SPHP enjoyed the beautiful long Yukon evening.

Near the start of the jeep trail, Lupe and SPHP caught up with Richard again. Richard and SPHP chatted as Lupe trotted along the road. Richard expounded upon grizzly bears. He was carrying bear spray and other anti-bear devices to deal with them. He talked about how all these tall bushes with small red berries growing along the road were soapberry bushes, and how bears love soapberries!

At the intersection where the road forked, there it was, just like Milo and Ben had said. A huge grizzly bear scat full of soapberries was right there at the intersection. Richard still couldn’t believe he hadn’t seen it in the morning!

The sun was getting low when Lupe reached the G6. She’d had a long, long day. Without the slightest hesitation, she hopped into the G6. Lupe curled up on her blankets and pillows, looking forward to a soft, comfy snooze. For more than an hour outside, Richard and SPHP conversed about Decoeli, bears, and other things. Richard even offered SPHP a free canister of bear spray. SPHP thanked him, but declined.

When Richard said good-bye and drove off, SPHP joined Lupe in the G6. The sun was about to set. What a fantastic, memorable day it had been! Lupe had made it to the top of Decoeli. She had almost certainly seen Mount Logan, the highest mountain in all of Canada.

Lupe and SPHP drove N on the Alaska Highway on the way to Kluane Lake, as the still glowing evening faded slowly from the wild Yukon mountains and sky.

Lupe's long, fabulous Day of Decoeli draws to a close. — Lupe’s long, fabulous Day of Decoeli draws to a close.

Sunset, Kluane National Park, Yukon Territory, Canada 8-9-16

Note: The trailhead for Mount Decoeli is a long, paved pullout 12.5 miles N of Haines Junction on the W side of the Alaska Highway. (1.4 miles N of the Spruce Beetle trailhead.) Decoeli is near, but not actually in, Kluane National Park. The route up is not maintained or signed in any manner. There is no formal trail. Elevation gain is a bit under 4,400 feet, or 1330 meters. Distance is roughly 11 miles or 18 km round trip.

A free description of the route up Decoeli is available from visitor centers near Haines Junction and Kluane Lake.

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