2014 Canadian Rockies/Beartooths – Page 3 – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

The Athabasca River originates at the Columbia Glacier, part of the Columbia Icefield in the Canadian Rockies. By the time the Athabasca reaches Athabasca Falls 30 km S of Jasper on the W side of the Icefields Parkway Hwy 93, it is already a large river. The Athabasca flows NE out of the Canadian Rockies to Athabasca Lake. Eventually the waters of the Athabasca reach Great Slave Lake and become part of the Mackenzie River system which flows NW into the Arctic Ocean. Athabasca Falls is 24 meters in height and a major tourist attraction. Parking lots and viewpoints can be accessed from Hwy 93A.

Lupe and SPHP woke up at 6:17 AM on July 30, 2014 to see sunrise on Mount Athabasca (11,453 ft.). It was already an incredibly warm 47 °F out. SPHP first heard and then saw a big chunk of ice and snow falling off the side of Snow Dome (11,483 ft.) as dawn was breaking. The night had been clear and filled with amazing stars. Yesterday Lupe had been on wonderful hikes in the area to Parker Ridge and Wilcox Pass. It was time to press on to the N.

SPHP stopped at Sunwapta Falls to let Lupe see the falls again (she had been here in 2013) and stretch her legs on the trail for a little while. From Sunwapta Falls, Lupe and SPHP continued N to SPHP’s favorite picnic area in Jasper National Park. This picnic area is just off the W side of Icefields Parkway Hwy No. 93 perhaps 8 to 10 km S of Athabasca Falls. For some reason it is unmarked and easy to pass by, but it is located in a forested area right next to the E bank of the mighty Athabasca River.

Sunwapta Falls. The Sunwapta River starts at the Athabasca Glacier and is a tributary of the Athabasca River.

Lupe entertained herself playing with a tennis ball and barking at squirrels. SPHP had breakfast and watched the river roll on by. It was going to be a very hot day for the Canadian Rockies and the Athabasca was running high. SPHP dawdled with little chores at the picnic ground for a while. No one else was around. The shade of the forest was pleasant and the view of high mountains to the W of the river was inspiring.

Looking downstream along the Athabasca river from SPHP's favorite picnic ground in Jasper National Park. — Looking downstream along the Athabasca river from SPHP’s favorite picnic ground in Jasper National Park.

Looking W across the Athabasca River from the picnic grounds.

It was just a 10 minute drive to Athabasca Falls from the picnic area. The place was packed with tourists. Lupe and SPHP had to wait for their turn at many of the lookout points. The falls were amazing, though. The huge flow of water thundered into the solid rock channel beneath the falls. Trapped in the narrow channel it churned and frothed before flowing out into a wide open area a short distance downstream. Below the falls and the narrow channel, whitewater rafters were heading out for a trip downriver.

The narrow channel below Athabasca Falls.

Rafters set out below Athabasca Falls. The river has been this gray, silt laden color every time Lupe has seen it.

Athabasca Falls is 24 meters high and rated Class V. Class V = Don't even think about it! — Athabasca Falls is 24 meters high and rated Class V. Class V = Don’t even think about it!

Lupe and SPHP spent about 45 minutes at Athabasca Falls before continuing on to Jasper. It was 85 °F a little after noon when Lupe arrived. Jasper was packed with tourists. SPHP took Lupe window shopping, all done on the shady side of the street. Lupe met and sniffed with many other doggies, so she wasn’t bored. By 1:30 PM it was 91 °F. SPHP took Lupe to a crowded beach at Pyramid Lake. Lupe did get to cool off in the water, but SPHP didn’t want to stay with the mob very long. SPHP bought ice cream. It melted very quickly. Lupe and SPHP had to consume all they could at once.

The heat sapped SPHP’s energy and all desire to go on any trails. Lupe wasn’t feeling any more ambitious than SPHP. She lay panting on a hot blanket in her fur coat in the G6. At 2:45 PM, SPHP decided to leave Jasper, turn on the AC for Lupe, and head NNE on Hwy 16. Lupe loved the AC and soon perked up. The temperature outside peaked at 94 °F. SPHP didn’t think it ever got that hot way up here, but it did. SPHP envisioned all the beautiful glaciers completely melting away. It wasn’t a happy thought.

44 km east of Jasper, SPHP turned S on the road to Miette Hot Springs. Another 17 km along a forested mountain road and Lupe arrived at the resort. Hot springs ordinarily wouldn’t have sounded good on a hot day like this one, but SPHP knew from past experience that Miette Hot Springs also has a couple of cool or even cold water pools. SPHP was looking forward to the cool water, but Lupe couldn’t be abandoned in the hot G6. It was going to be a long wait before things cooled down enough to leave Lupe alone for even a little while.

Lupe was very interested in the herd of mountain sheep that roamed the grounds. Although there were signs everywhere saying not to feed them, there was a picnic area where the mountain sheep were obviously very used to dining. They came right up to people and demanded an invitation to the picnic. They didn’t get anything from Lupe, who barked at the mountain sheep furiously whenever they got close. The mountain sheep were not used to such rude behavior and gave Lupe a wide berth.

SPHP figured it was best to separate Lupe from the mountain sheep. Lupe and SPHP headed down a road to a stream away from the picnic area. The stream was cold and clear. Lupe eagerly lapped up the cold water. SPHP repeatedly dangled both feet in the water until they were so cold the bones ached. Lupe and SPHP stayed next to the stream for hours. Bees buzzed. Butterflies flitted around. SPHP got situated as comfortably as possible among the boulders along the stream bank, which wasn’t all that easy. Lupe curled up nearby. She dozed with her head resting on SPHP’s hand.

The sun shone like a demon in the cloudless sky, but finally disappeared behind a high ridge to the SW. Things cooled off a bit. It was after 7:00 PM by the time it was cool enough to leave Lupe in the G6. She had water and was happy watching the mountain sheep. SPHP went and enjoyed Miette Hot Springs for an hour and a half. The cool pool was delightful. The cold pool soon made the hotter ones seem desirable. SPHP cycled back and forth between all the pools.

At 8:30 PM Lupe was glad to see SPHP returning to the G6. Watching mountain sheep has its limits when you can’t get at them for a fresh mutton dinner. For SPHP, Miette Hot Springs was a refreshing and wonderful time. Too bad Lupe couldn’t come to the pools, too, but SPHP would make it up to her. On the way back to Jasper, SPHP felt great and optimistic. It was a beautiful drive. Lupe rode in air conditioned comfort again, just happy to be with SPHP. Dingoes make the best friends!

There are three hot springs that Lupe and SPHP have been to in the Canadian Rockies: Miette Hot Springs NE of Jasper, Banff Upper Hot Springs in Banff, and Radium Hot Springs in Kootenay National Park. SPHP considers all of them very affordable and great bargains. While all are nice facilities, Miette Hot Springs is SPHP’s clear favorite of the three.

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Sunwapta Falls & Athabasca Falls, Jasper National Park, Canada (7-28-13)

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The trailhead for the hike to Rawson Lake is at the far SE corner of Upper Kananaskis Lake in Peter Lougheed Provincial Park, Alberta, Canada. There is a large paved parking area next to the trailhead and a picnic ground there next to the Upper Kananaskis Lake. Elevation gain to reach Rawson Lake is approximately 918 feet or 279 meters.

After a very long and wonderful day hike from Upper Kananaskis Lake to the Turbine Campground along the Maude-Lawson Trail the previous day, Lupe and SPHP got off to a very slow start this morning. The wind was gusting across Upper Kananaskis Lake creating whitecaps, and it was much cooler than the previous day. There were occasional rain showers. The air was clear of the smoky haze that had been present the day before. It was Saturday and throngs of people were arriving despite the wet weather.

Lupe and SPHP had a very late breakfast. SPHP repacked and rearranged the gear in the G6. The wind and rains continued. Lots of people in rain gear came and went. SPHP was kind of spent after the long trek to Turbine Campground and felt lethargic. Lupe was fine with a lazy day too. Lupe and SPHP dozed in the G6 for hours. It was late afternoon by the time SPHP woke up again. The parking lot had been full earlier, but was now emptying out fast. The rain had stopped, although it was still quite breezy by Upper Kananaskis Lake.

Finally SPHP was ready for action again. There was plenty of time for Lupe to take the trail to Rawson Lake! Lupe and SPHP started heading W on the circuit trail around Upper Kananaskis Lake from the SE corner of the lake. Two days before, when Lupe had first arrived at Upper Kananaskis Lake, Lupe and SPHP had gone as far as the waterfall on Sarrail Creek on this same trail. This time Lupe and SPHP carefully crossed the wet three log “bridge” across the creek and went onward.

Soon after crossing Sarrail Creek, Lupe reached the junction with the Rawson Lake trail, which was 1.4 km from the parking lot. The trail along Upper Kananaskis Lake had been very easy with little elevation change. The 2.7 km Rawson Lake trail, however, climbed steadily nearly all the way to Rawson Lake. Until Lupe was halfway up the Rawson Lake trail, there was a steady stream of hikers coming back down from Rawson Lake. After halfway though, Lupe met no one.

One group of hikers told SPHP that there had been over 100 people up at Rawson Lake when they’d first arrived there. Many people had been fishing. Nearly all of them reported catching cutthroat trout. It was all catch and release, and the fish were pretty small. The most interesting report was from three guys who said they had seen two grizzly bears at Rawson Lake. One of the grizzlies got within 20 feet of them before passing on by. One of the guys said it was the first time he had ever released the safety latch on his bear spray.

When Lupe arrived at Rawson Lake no one was there. SPHP couldn’t help but smile at the thought of all the people who had come earlier in the day when the weather was worse and had to contend with crowds. SPHP sat on a log by the shore of Rawson Lake. Lupe rested next to the log and sometimes got up on the log with SPHP. Lupe and SPHP watched fish jumping in the lake and listened to birds singing. No grizzly bears were in sight. The lake was calm, protected from the wind by Mount Sarrail (10,413 ft.). SPHP shared a Cliff bar with Lupe.

Lupe next to the log at Rawson Lake. She looks sleepy here, but she was just relaxed. On the way back the were-puppy suddenly attacked SPHP twice! — Lupe next to the log at Rawson Lake. She looks sleepy here, but she was just relaxed. On the way back a very energetic were-puppy suddenly attacked SPHP twice!

Rawson Lake, Peter Lougheed Provincial Park, Alberta Canada. The mountain is Mount Sarrail. — Rawson Lake, Peter Lougheed Provincial Park, Alberta Canada 7-19-14. The mountain is Mount Sarrail.

After 30+ peaceful minutes of unbroken solitude at tranquil Rawson Lake, Lupe and SPHP left and headed back down the trail. The were-puppy attacked SPHP a couple of times not far from Rawson Lake, and nearly knocked SPHP down once. Lupe was having a great time! Lupe and SPHP saw no one until nearly back to the parking lot. Upon reaching the parking lot, SPHP ditched the backpack in the G6 and got a drink. Then Lupe and SPHP went back to a bench along the trail not far from the parking lot which had a view of Upper Kananaskis Lake.

Another day ended with a gray sunset at Upper Kananaskis Lake, Peter Lougheed Provincial Park, Alberta, Canada. 7-19-14

Together Lupe and SPHP sat on the bench, listened to the waves on the shore, and watched the sun disappear behind the clouds and mountains. A cool breeze was blowing from off the lake. SPHP wrote and drank the drink. The hoped for colorful sunset never materialized. Instead everything just faded to gray. SPHP stayed there talking to and petting an appreciative Lupe until the growing darkness indicated it was time to head back to the G6.

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Category: 2014 Canadian Rockies/Beartooths

Athabasca Falls & Miette Hot Springs, Jasper National Park, Canada (7-30-14)

Rawson Lake, Peter Lougheed Provincial Park, Alberta, Canada (7-19-14)