Dingo Vacations – Page 150 – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Lion Head & the Matanuska Glacier, Chugach Range, Alaska (8-24-16)

Day 26 of Lupe’s Summer of 2016 Dingo Vacation to the Canadian Rockies, Yukon & Alaska

For once it wasn’t raining when Lupe woke up. However, evidence some moisture had been received overnight was present S of the Glenn Highway (Alaska Route 1). The highest peaks of the Chugach Range had a light dusting of new snow.

Finally, a day without rain! Some moisture had been received overnight, though. The highest peaks of the Chugach Range S of the Glenn Highway had a dusting of new snow. Photo looks SW from the Gunsight Mountain TH.

No rain was good news! Lupe could climb Lion Head today, famous for its fabulous views of the Matanuska Glacier. The trail up Lion Head is short, but steep, gaining over 1,000 feet of elevation in less than a mile. The climb wouldn’t take Lupe very long. She had plenty of time for a leisurely breakfast. Beef stew was on the menu. Carolina Dogs love beef stew!

Lupe had a pleasant surprise when Luke Hall, the Australian whom she had met at the top of Gunsight Mountain (6,441 ft.) yesterday, dropped by for a visit. Luke showed Lupe and SPHP his gray Chevy van that has served as both transportation and base camp on his extended adventures in Canada and Alaska over the past 3 years.

Luke and SPHP chatted about past adventures and plans for the day. SPHP told Luke about Lupe’s intention to visit Lion Head to see the Matanuska Glacier. Luke said he was heading for Long Lake. After a good visit, Luke bid Lupe and SPHP farewell, and was off.

With the American Dingo contentedly full of beef stew, SPHP drove over to the S side of the Glen Highway, taking the Alascom Access Road leading to the Knob Lakes. The intention wasn’t to go all the way to the lakes, only far enough to get a good view from a distance of Gunsight Mountain.

Gunsight Mountain, a really fun climb Lupe had made the day before. Lupe’s route up had been along the easy NE ridge seen on the R. Photo looks W from the Alascom Access Road leading to the Knob Lakes.

After a good look at Gunsight Mountain from the E, Lupe and SPHP returned to the Glenn Highway and headed W. The turn onto the short Lion Head access road at milepost 106 was only 12 miles away. On the approach, Lupe had a fantastic view of Lion Head (3,185 ft.) from the highway.

Lion Head is the distinctive rocky prominence seen at Center. Nearby peaks of the Chugach Range tower above it. Photo looks SW along the Glenn Highway (Alaska Route 1).

SPHP parked the G6 along the Lion Head access road. Half a dozen other vehicles were around, all parked before the gate across the road. Yesterday the gate had been closed, but today it was standing wide open.

Within a few minutes of Lupe’s arrival, Luke Hall appeared again! He was already on his way back from climbing Lion Head. He pronounced the climb a lot of bang for one’s hiking buck. The views of the Matanuska Glacier were fantastic! After a brief conversation, Luke was on his way to Long Lake.

Lupe and SPHP left the G6 (1:19 PM, 63°F) taking the access road through the open gate. The road started out going SW, but almost immediately started curving around to the E, where a trail left it going S. There was no sign, but the trail had to be the one going up Lion Head.

A woman from Girdwood, Alaska came along, and confirmed this was the trail. She had two dogs with her, one larger than Lupe and one much smaller. The little dog was 9 years old, a purebred, and totally deaf. Lupe liked the little doggie, but was snarly toward the larger one. She’s often that way. She feels threatened by bigger dogs, and wants them to understand from the start not to mess with a Carolina Dog.

For a little while, the woman from Girdwood, her two dogs, Lupe and SPHP all took the trail climbing Lion Head together. Since she was from Alaska, SPHP asked what she knew about the “No Trespassing” sign AT&T had on the access road gate. Evidently no one pays any attention to that sign. What was the real deal?

The Girdwood woman said the AT&T guys were really nice. AT&T has a big tower on the N side of Lion Head. AT&T doesn’t want people wandering over by the tower, but doesn’t care if people climb Lion Head, if they act responsibly. Of course, without official permission from AT&T, it’s all at your own risk. If you get hurt, AT&T doesn’t want you and your lawyer to come crying to them.

Lupe on the trail up Lion Head. She’s getting close to the top here. Photo looks SE.

The trail was steep most of the way. Trees and large bushes blocked the views most of the time. In places, the trail was braided, with two or more possible routes up. It wasn’t until Lupe started getting close to the top of the mountain, that the trail began to level out. Fewer trees and bushes were here. Tremendous views started opening up!

As Lupe drew near the summit of Lion Head, tremendous views began to open up. The Matanuska River below the Glenn Highway is visible on the R. The Matanuska Glacier, much of it covered with dark-colored debris, is seen on the L. Photo looks W.

The last part of the climb was easy. Lupe reached her peakbagging goal for the day up on the highest rocks on Lion Head. What a gorgeous place! The stunning view of the Matanuska Glacier winding for miles down a broad valley between snow-capped peaks was the main attraction, but glorious sights were in every direction.

Matanuska Glacier from the summit of Lion Head. Photo looks SSE.

Lupe at the summit. The Glenn Highway is seen below. Beyond it is Fortress Ridge. Photo looks NNW.

**Sheep Mountain (6,223 ft.)** (L) and the Matanuska River(Center). Photo looks NE.

When Lupe reached the top of Lion Head, she found 3 more people with 2 more dogs already there. Both dogs were much bigger than Lupe, and she stayed away from them. Fortunately, the summit area was roomy enough for everyone to enjoy it from their own space.

Lupe found more people and dogs on top of Lion Head, but the summit area was easily large enough to accommodate everyone with room to spread out a bit. About the W half of the summit area is shown here. Photo looks W.

The views were so wonderful, Lupe was in no hurry to leave. Eventually everyone else did. Lupe and SPHP stayed to enjoy this special place. The Matanuska Glacier was simply awesome!

What a sight! The Matanuska Glacier from Lion Head. Photo looks SSE with some help from the telephoto lens.

E edge of the Matanuska Glacier(R) with possibly **Fog Peak (8,555 ft.)**(R) seen beyond it. Other mysterious snow and ice-capped peaks of the Chugach Range are on the L. Photo looks SE.

The W edge of the Matanuska Glacier is on the L. The highest, dramatic snow-covered peak on the R may be **Icing Peak (10,955 ft.)**. Photo looks S.

Before long, someone else appeared at the top of Lion Head. Incredibly, it was someone Lupe knew! Laura from Montana, who had hailed Lupe and SPHP on her way down Gunsight Mountain yesterday, had arrived. She was equally astonished to find Lupe here.

Once again, Laura was very friendly. She was so, so kind to Lupe, and spent a long time talking with SPHP. After climbing Gunsight Mountain yesterday, she’d had a dinner date that went well. Today was her last day in Alaska. Tomorrow she would fly home to Montana. She was thinking about her college options, whether to complete a degree she had been working on, or switch majors. She talked about going to school in Vermont.

Laura from Montana, who had hailed Lupe and SPHP yesterday on her way down Gunsight Mountain, made a surprise appearance on Lion Head, too! She was equally astonished to find Lupe and SPHP here.

Laura was so, so kind to Lupe on Lion Head. Lupe was enjoying every moment!

Laura happened to come up Lion Head on the recommendation of friends she was visiting in Alaska. They worked nearby for a private company offering guided ice-climbing tours on the Matanuska Glacier. They also told Laura that AT&T had no problem with people climbing Lion Head.

Laura and SPHP conversed for a long time. Lupe enjoyed all the loving attention Laura gave her. For an hour and a half, Laura, Lupe and SPHP shared the top of Lion Head and all the amazing sights.

The fabulous Matanuska Glacier is 26 miles long. It is the largest glacier accessible by road in Alaska. Photo looks SSE.

Looking as far up the Matanuska Glacier valley as it was possible to see. Photo looks SSE using the telephoto lens.

The Matanuska Glacier is larger than it appears. In the vicinity of Lion Head, the glacier spreads out to almost 4 miles wide. Much of the snow and ice is hidden beneath rocks and dirt being transported by the glacier. Photo looks SW.

Part of the Matanuska Glacier viewed through the telephoto lens. Photo looks SW.

Another look at the Matanuska Glacier through the telephoto lens. The glacier is more than 1.5 miles wide here. Photo looks SSE.

The time spent with Laura was fun, but eventually the moment arrived to leave Laura alone with her thoughts. She retreated to the E end of the summit area, and sat on the brink of a precipice contemplating the Matanuska River valley, and the decisions she would face upon flying home to Montana tomorrow. Lupe and SPHP spent a short while taking a final look around at the magnificent scenes from Lion Head, then bid Laura good luck and good-bye.

Lupe never saw Laura again, but she did hear her once. Laura hadn’t stayed much longer up on lonely Lion Head after Lupe and SPHP departed. She wound up on a different part of the braided trail on the way down, but saw Lupe from above. Laura shouted a final farewell to Lupe. SPHP answered for Lupe in return.

Back at the G6 (5:29 PM), Luke and Laura were gone. Lupe’s Lion Head adventure was over. Of course, Lupe and SPHP still had each other. The question was, which way from here? Easy answer. Since the weather was good, back to Palmer! Maybe Lupe could climb nearby Pepper Peak (5,381 ft.), tomorrow?

The road stayed dry all the way back to Palmer, but in town dark clouds could be seen hanging low in a valley to the SE. Before the evening’s light was gone, rain started in again. As usual, nothing could be done about it, except wait to see what tomorrow would bring.

Lupe and Laura a few moments before parting.

Links:

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Matanuska Glacier State Recreation Site

Matanuska Glacier Adventures

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Gunsight Mountain, Talkeetna Range, Alaska (8-23-16)

Day 25 of Lupe’s Summer of 2016 Dingo Vacation to the Canadian Rockies, Yukon & Alaska

Lupe wanted out twice during the night. Both times it was nice out, a hopeful sign. Dawn arrived a few hours later to dash those hopes. Steady rain beneath a drearily overcast low-ceiling sky. The forecasts were going to be right, weren’t they? Three more full days of rain before things might improve.

A little after 10:00 AM, Lupe and SPHP left Palmer on the Glen Highway (Alaska Route 1) heading E. Sad, very sad, but SPHP was resigned to it. There was no beating this endless rain on the Alaska S coast. Lupe wasn’t going to get to do any of the fun adventures around Anchorage or on the Kenai Peninsula.

The plan was to go as far as it took to get out of the rain, even if that meant going back to Canada. Lupe still had a couple of peakbagging objectives on her list not too far E of Palmer, if the rain would let up. There didn’t seem to be much hope of that. SPHP was prepared for a long drive. Lupe stared out the rain-streaked window of the G6 at the beautiful Matanuska River valley she was leaving behind.

Lupe stared out the window of the G6 at the beautiful Matanuska River valley she was leaving behind. Photo looks SE.

The rain didn’t extend nearly as far as SPHP feared. Surprisingly, by the time Lupe was nearing the Matanuska Glacier, the sky had stopped its seemingly endless dripping. The glacier was visible from the highway, so Lupe stopped for a look.

The Matanuska Glacier was visible from the Glen Highway. Photo looks SE.

Lupe along the Glen Highway with the Matanuska Glacier in the background. Photo looks SE.

Toe of the Matanuska Glacier with a little help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks SE.

Conditions improved rapidly as Lupe and SPHP continued E on the Glen Highway. That was great news! Two of Lupe’s peakbagging objectives were coming up soon.

The first was Lion Head (3,185 ft.). Lupe found the road that serves as a trailhead near milepost 106. Beyond a parking area, a closed gate was across the road. A “No Trespassing” sign said AT&T owned the property. No one allowed in without permission from AT&T. Most disappointing.

Surprising, too! SPHP had read online accounts touting the climb up Lion Head for the spectacular views of the Matanuska Glacier. None of them had mentioned an access problem. Several vehicles were parked along the road near the closed gate. Others must be making the hike. SPHP hesitated. Gunsight Mountain was another 10 or 12 miles E. Maybe Lupe should check out Gunsight instead?

Near milepost 117, Lupe and SPHP stopped at a large empty pullout on the SE side of the Glen Highway. A sign said this was the Camp Creek trailhead. Absolutely no other information was available. Not a soul was around. Gunsight Mountain loomed to the NW right across the highway.

Despite involving 3,400 feet of elevation gain, the climb up Gunsight was supposed to be easy and straightforward. Was this the trailhead for Gunsight? Except for those tall bushes low down on the mountain, the climb looked easy enough whether there was a trail or not. SPHP grabbed the backpack, crossed the highway, and Lupe was on her way! (1:29 PM, 54°F)

Five minutes after Lupe started her assault on Gunsight, SPHP was beating a retreat. Those tall bushes were an impassable jungle! There certainly didn’t seem to be any trail. Lupe had no choice, but to follow SPHP back to the G6. So far, Lupe’s day had been nothing but frustration. Another mile E, near milepost 118, her luck changed.

A green street sign read “Trailhead Access Road”. A short road on the NW side of the highway led to a large paved parking lot. A posted map showed several trails in this area, including one leading to Gunsight Mountain (6,441 ft.). Twenty minutes after launching her first attack on Gunsight, Lupe set out again.

An old road led to an ATV trail that climbed rather steeply at the start. Things leveled out after 200 feet of elevation gain. The ATV trail had turned N. Lupe reached an intersection where a small pond was a short distance ahead.

The ATV trail led Lupe to an intersection where this small pond was in view. The long ridge in the background is part of **Syncline Mountain (5,471 ft.)**. Photo looks N.

Lupe didn’t need to go N. She turned W on another ATV trail leading toward Gunsight Mountain. A huge, colorful hillside, was ahead. The top of Gunsight Mountain appeared above it in the distance.

Lupe turns W on the ATV trail leading toward Gunsight Mountain. A huge, colorful hillside was ahead.

The ATV trail was full of big, muddy potholes, and soon gave out. A single track trail led into the bushes which dominated the landscape. It too, disintegrated before long. A bewildering maze of little trails went in all directions, appearing and disappearing in no discernible pattern. Lupe thought this was great! She could prowl around unseen until she was almost upon SPHP.

The bushes down where Lupe had made her first brief assault on Gunsight had towered over SPHP. They had strong, thick branches. Fortunately, the bushes here were only chest high on SPHP. It was possible to push through these smaller bushes along the myriad of little trails, though it was preferable to follow the occasional strips of open ground between them whenever possible.

Getting to the top of this first big hillside took a while. The climb gradually steepened along the way. On the bright side, the open ground between bushes started to dominate as Lupe gained elevation. If there was any organized trail up this long hill, Lupe never found it. During short rest stops, SPHP consumed wild blueberries, which grew in great profusion on the hillside.

By the time Lupe reached the top of the big, colorful hillside, the bushes had disappeared entirely. Only the low, delicate plants of the tundra remained. Lupe already had some fabulous views from here.

Lupe already had fabulous views from the top of the first, long, colorful hillside. Photo looks SE.

Looking SW down the Matanuska River valley.

Looking back down the long, colorful hillside toward the Gunsight Mountain trailhead near the Glenn Highway. Photo looks E.

The best route to the top from here was obvious. Lupe headed W across a broad area of fairly level tundra toward the NE ridge of the mountain. She even lost a little elevation along the way, before the climb resumed.

Lupe on her way W from the top of the long, colorful hillside toward Gunsight’s NE ridge seen on the R. She would stay on the near side of the ridge, especially as she neared the summit. Photo looks WSW.

Lupe was still on her way up toward Gunsight’s NE ridge, when suddenly there was a voice coming from above. A young woman was cheerily hailing Lupe and SPHP as she hiked down the mountain. SPHP hadn’t even seen her. Her name was Laura. She was here in Alaska visiting friends who had to work today, so she had just trotted on up to the top of Gunsight Mountain for something to do.

Laura was from Montana, which made her practically a neighbor to Lupe. She was very friendly. Was the guy following Lupe and SPHP part of the group? SPHP turned around. There was someone coming! He was still over toward the top of the long, colorful hillside, but heading this way fast. No, Lupe and SPHP had never seen him before.

Lupe with Laura from Montana. Laura had already been to the top of Gunsight Mountain. She was on her way down when she spotted Lupe and SPHP coming up.

Laura and SPHP chatted pleasantly for a few minutes, before she went onward. A few minutes later, she could be seen talking to the guy who was hot on Lupe’s trail coming up. Meanwhile, Lupe reached the NE ridge. Staying on the less steep SE side of the ridge, Lupe and SPHP continued toward the summit.

Lupe reaches the NE ridge. Photo looks SW.

Within a few hundred feet of the summit, the tundra finally gave way to a long, scree slope. During the fairly steep ascent up the scree, the guy who had been following Lupe overtook SPHP. He promised to save Lupe and SPHP good seats with a view at the top.

Lupe on the long scree slope leading to the summit. Photo looks W.

Coming up the easy, broad E slopes of Gunsight Mountain, SPHP had come under the impression that the summit might well be a large plateau, with plenty of room for Lupe to run around. However, when Lupe reached the top of the scree slope, the mountain simply ended. On the other side of the little summit ridge was a gaping chasm.

Standing out at the very end of a small, narrow prominence, surrounded on 3 sides by nothing but air, was the guy who had promised to save Lupe and SPHP good seats with a view. He stood on the brink of destruction at the chasm’s edge surveying the spectacular views, as calmly as any mountain goat might to whom it was all old hat, part of a daily humdrum routine.

His precarious position made SPHP nervous for him, but he calmly walked over to greet Lupe and introduce himself to SPHP. His name was Luke Hall. He was originally from Sidney, Australia. Luke had left Sidney 3 years ago. Since then, he’d worked for a while in Banff, Canada and London, England, and a few other places around the globe. At the moment, Luke was in the middle of an already months long trip exploring and climbing peaks in Alaska.

Lupe meets Australian globe-trotter Luke Hall at the summit of Gunsight Mountain. Photo looks SW.

Lupe at the summit. SPHP had expected some kind of broad plateau up here where Lupe could run around. Instead, Lupe arrived to find huge cliffs, chasms, and jagged knife-edge ridges. Photo looks NW.

Wow! Sounded like Luke was adventure personified! Lupe, Luke and SPHP spend 30 minutes together on Gunsight. A lot of chatting, comparing notes, and taking photos went on. Luke had been to Berg Lake in Mount Robson Provincial Park in Canada. Lupe had been there on her Summer of 2013 Dingo Vacation, too. Luke and Lupe had both been to several other places, among them Sukakpak Mountain (4,459 ft.), N of the Arctic Circle.

Luke was surprised to learn that Lupe had made it to the top of Sukakpak. He had been there a couple of weeks ago. He’d made it very high up on the mountain, but hadn’t found the route to the summit. Lupe and SPHP shared how Lupe managed to get there.

Of course, as long as Luke had already been exploring Alaska, he’d seen a lot of places Lupe hadn’t. There was so much to talk about! Fun times, but it was getting to be evening, and this was, after all, the top of a mountain in Alaska. Luke was wearing shorts. Not too surprisingly, he started getting cold standing around. He needed to get moving again, so good-byes were said, and Luke started down the mountain.

Peaks over-looking the Matanuska Glacier, portions of which are in view in the valley below. Photo looks SW using the telephoto lens.

Looking WSW. Part of the Matanuska Glacier in view on the lower L.

Luke Hall starts down the mountain after a fun half hour with Lupe at the top. Note the actual patches of blue sky and sunshine! Photo looks ENE.

After Luke departed, Lupe and SPHP spent another 20 minutes at the summit. The views were tremendous in every direction. The day had started discouragingly, but was ending on a literal high note here with Lupe at the top of splendid Gunsight Mountain!

Looking SW along the length of **Sheep Mountain (6,223 ft.)**(R). Part of the Matanuska Glacier(L) is in view in the distance.

Sheep Mountain using the telephoto lens. Photo looks SW.

Looking SSW. The weather was still stormy looking toward the SW.

South Fork of the Matanuska River. Photo looks SSE using the telephoto lens.

Big patches of blue sky were appearing off to the E, the first blue sky Lupe had seen in days. Trail Lake is the largest lake in view on the lower R. The Gunsight Mountain trailhead(Center) is barely above the bottom edge. Photo looks ENE.

So many mountains were in view from Gunsight! The mountains to the S were high enough to block a view of what lay beyond them. Off to the N, however, range after range could be seen receding to the horizon. This photo looks NNW using the telephoto lens.

Looking over Gunsight Mountain’s summit ridge at the gaping chasm to the SW. Sheep Mountain is on the R. The Matanuska River is on the L flowing toward the more distant Matanuska Glacier. Photo looks SW.

Wondering if Lupe found the Gun survey benchmark? Here ya go!

After nearly an hour at the top, Lupe started back down the NE ridge. The evening and surroundings were incredibly beautiful. Most encouragingly, the patches of blue sky and sunshine which had started appearing on Lupe’s way up seemed to be spreading.

Lupe comes back up along the NE ridge to see what’s keeping that slowpoke SPHP. Photo looks NE.

Luke had said he was planning on going to Anchorage and the Kenai peninsula. Maybe Lupe should, too! Maybe the weather was going to improve, and Lupe wouldn’t have to miss out on all the fun that had been planned there. She was only an hour’s drive E of Palmer. Lupe could climb Lion Head tomorrow, and then return to Palmer! It was too soon to leave Alaska, if Lupe didn’t have to.

Although the plan seemed to change with each passing cloud, these happy thoughts accompanied Lupe and SPHP as they took their time on the descent. The long, colorful hill was easier descending than ascending. It was possible to see the pattern of the open areas between the bushes from above, which made it easy to avoid the worst of the bushes. Of course, Lupe thought the bushes were fun, but she didn’t mind being able to run in the open, too.

A tired, but happy American Dingo arrived back at the G6 (9:29 PM). This had turned out to be a great day after all. Maybe things were looking up. Tomorrow, Lion Head!

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