Matanuska Glacier – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Day 26 of Lupe’s Summer of 2016 Dingo Vacation to the Canadian Rockies, Yukon & Alaska

For once it wasn’t raining when Lupe woke up. However, evidence some moisture had been received overnight was present S of the Glenn Highway (Alaska Route 1). The highest peaks of the Chugach Range had a light dusting of new snow.

Finally, a day without rain! Some moisture had been received overnight, though. The highest peaks of the Chugach Range S of the Glenn Highway had a dusting of new snow. Photo looks SW from the Gunsight Mountain TH.

No rain was good news! Lupe could climb Lion Head today, famous for its fabulous views of the Matanuska Glacier. The trail up Lion Head is short, but steep, gaining over 1,000 feet of elevation in less than a mile. The climb wouldn’t take Lupe very long. She had plenty of time for a leisurely breakfast. Beef stew was on the menu. Carolina Dogs love beef stew!

Lupe had a pleasant surprise when Luke Hall, the Australian whom she had met at the top of Gunsight Mountain (6,441 ft.) yesterday, dropped by for a visit. Luke showed Lupe and SPHP his gray Chevy van that has served as both transportation and base camp on his extended adventures in Canada and Alaska over the past 3 years.

Luke and SPHP chatted about past adventures and plans for the day. SPHP told Luke about Lupe’s intention to visit Lion Head to see the Matanuska Glacier. Luke said he was heading for Long Lake. After a good visit, Luke bid Lupe and SPHP farewell, and was off.

With the American Dingo contentedly full of beef stew, SPHP drove over to the S side of the Glen Highway, taking the Alascom Access Road leading to the Knob Lakes. The intention wasn’t to go all the way to the lakes, only far enough to get a good view from a distance of Gunsight Mountain.

Gunsight Mountain, a really fun climb Lupe had made the day before. Lupe’s route up had been along the easy NE ridge seen on the R. Photo looks W from the Alascom Access Road leading to the Knob Lakes.

After a good look at Gunsight Mountain from the E, Lupe and SPHP returned to the Glenn Highway and headed W. The turn onto the short Lion Head access road at milepost 106 was only 12 miles away. On the approach, Lupe had a fantastic view of Lion Head (3,185 ft.) from the highway.

Lion Head is the distinctive rocky prominence seen at Center. Nearby peaks of the Chugach Range tower above it. Photo looks SW along the Glenn Highway (Alaska Route 1).

SPHP parked the G6 along the Lion Head access road. Half a dozen other vehicles were around, all parked before the gate across the road. Yesterday the gate had been closed, but today it was standing wide open.

Within a few minutes of Lupe’s arrival, Luke Hall appeared again! He was already on his way back from climbing Lion Head. He pronounced the climb a lot of bang for one’s hiking buck. The views of the Matanuska Glacier were fantastic! After a brief conversation, Luke was on his way to Long Lake.

Lupe and SPHP left the G6 (1:19 PM, 63°F) taking the access road through the open gate. The road started out going SW, but almost immediately started curving around to the E, where a trail left it going S. There was no sign, but the trail had to be the one going up Lion Head.

A woman from Girdwood, Alaska came along, and confirmed this was the trail. She had two dogs with her, one larger than Lupe and one much smaller. The little dog was 9 years old, a purebred, and totally deaf. Lupe liked the little doggie, but was snarly toward the larger one. She’s often that way. She feels threatened by bigger dogs, and wants them to understand from the start not to mess with a Carolina Dog.

For a little while, the woman from Girdwood, her two dogs, Lupe and SPHP all took the trail climbing Lion Head together. Since she was from Alaska, SPHP asked what she knew about the “No Trespassing” sign AT&T had on the access road gate. Evidently no one pays any attention to that sign. What was the real deal?

The Girdwood woman said the AT&T guys were really nice. AT&T has a big tower on the N side of Lion Head. AT&T doesn’t want people wandering over by the tower, but doesn’t care if people climb Lion Head, if they act responsibly. Of course, without official permission from AT&T, it’s all at your own risk. If you get hurt, AT&T doesn’t want you and your lawyer to come crying to them.

Lupe on the trail up Lion Head. She’s getting close to the top here. Photo looks SE.

The trail was steep most of the way. Trees and large bushes blocked the views most of the time. In places, the trail was braided, with two or more possible routes up. It wasn’t until Lupe started getting close to the top of the mountain, that the trail began to level out. Fewer trees and bushes were here. Tremendous views started opening up!

As Lupe drew near the summit of Lion Head, tremendous views began to open up. The Matanuska River below the Glenn Highway is visible on the R. The Matanuska Glacier, much of it covered with dark-colored debris, is seen on the L. Photo looks W.

The last part of the climb was easy. Lupe reached her peakbagging goal for the day up on the highest rocks on Lion Head. What a gorgeous place! The stunning view of the Matanuska Glacier winding for miles down a broad valley between snow-capped peaks was the main attraction, but glorious sights were in every direction.

Matanuska Glacier from the summit of Lion Head. Photo looks SSE.

Lupe at the summit. The Glenn Highway is seen below. Beyond it is Fortress Ridge. Photo looks NNW.

**Sheep Mountain (6,223 ft.)** (L) and the Matanuska River(Center). Photo looks NE.

When Lupe reached the top of Lion Head, she found 3 more people with 2 more dogs already there. Both dogs were much bigger than Lupe, and she stayed away from them. Fortunately, the summit area was roomy enough for everyone to enjoy it from their own space.

Lupe found more people and dogs on top of Lion Head, but the summit area was easily large enough to accommodate everyone with room to spread out a bit. About the W half of the summit area is shown here. Photo looks W.

The views were so wonderful, Lupe was in no hurry to leave. Eventually everyone else did. Lupe and SPHP stayed to enjoy this special place. The Matanuska Glacier was simply awesome!

What a sight! The Matanuska Glacier from Lion Head. Photo looks SSE with some help from the telephoto lens.

E edge of the Matanuska Glacier(R) with possibly **Fog Peak (8,555 ft.)**(R) seen beyond it. Other mysterious snow and ice-capped peaks of the Chugach Range are on the L. Photo looks SE.

The W edge of the Matanuska Glacier is on the L. The highest, dramatic snow-covered peak on the R may be **Icing Peak (10,955 ft.)**. Photo looks S.

Before long, someone else appeared at the top of Lion Head. Incredibly, it was someone Lupe knew! Laura from Montana, who had hailed Lupe and SPHP on her way down Gunsight Mountain yesterday, had arrived. She was equally astonished to find Lupe here.

Once again, Laura was very friendly. She was so, so kind to Lupe, and spent a long time talking with SPHP. After climbing Gunsight Mountain yesterday, she’d had a dinner date that went well. Today was her last day in Alaska. Tomorrow she would fly home to Montana. She was thinking about her college options, whether to complete a degree she had been working on, or switch majors. She talked about going to school in Vermont.

Laura from Montana, who had hailed Lupe and SPHP yesterday on her way down Gunsight Mountain, made a surprise appearance on Lion Head, too! She was equally astonished to find Lupe and SPHP here.

Laura was so, so kind to Lupe on Lion Head. Lupe was enjoying every moment!

Laura happened to come up Lion Head on the recommendation of friends she was visiting in Alaska. They worked nearby for a private company offering guided ice-climbing tours on the Matanuska Glacier. They also told Laura that AT&T had no problem with people climbing Lion Head.

Laura and SPHP conversed for a long time. Lupe enjoyed all the loving attention Laura gave her. For an hour and a half, Laura, Lupe and SPHP shared the top of Lion Head and all the amazing sights.

The fabulous Matanuska Glacier is 26 miles long. It is the largest glacier accessible by road in Alaska. Photo looks SSE.

Looking as far up the Matanuska Glacier valley as it was possible to see. Photo looks SSE using the telephoto lens.

The Matanuska Glacier is larger than it appears. In the vicinity of Lion Head, the glacier spreads out to almost 4 miles wide. Much of the snow and ice is hidden beneath rocks and dirt being transported by the glacier. Photo looks SW.

Part of the Matanuska Glacier viewed through the telephoto lens. Photo looks SW.

Another look at the Matanuska Glacier through the telephoto lens. The glacier is more than 1.5 miles wide here. Photo looks SSE.

The time spent with Laura was fun, but eventually the moment arrived to leave Laura alone with her thoughts. She retreated to the E end of the summit area, and sat on the brink of a precipice contemplating the Matanuska River valley, and the decisions she would face upon flying home to Montana tomorrow. Lupe and SPHP spent a short while taking a final look around at the magnificent scenes from Lion Head, then bid Laura good luck and good-bye.

Lupe never saw Laura again, but she did hear her once. Laura hadn’t stayed much longer up on lonely Lion Head after Lupe and SPHP departed. She wound up on a different part of the braided trail on the way down, but saw Lupe from above. Laura shouted a final farewell to Lupe. SPHP answered for Lupe in return.

Back at the G6 (5:29 PM), Luke and Laura were gone. Lupe’s Lion Head adventure was over. Of course, Lupe and SPHP still had each other. The question was, which way from here? Easy answer. Since the weather was good, back to Palmer! Maybe Lupe could climb nearby Pepper Peak (5,381 ft.), tomorrow?

The road stayed dry all the way back to Palmer, but in town dark clouds could be seen hanging low in a valley to the SE. Before the evening’s light was gone, rain started in again. As usual, nothing could be done about it, except wait to see what tomorrow would bring.