2019 Yukon & Alaska – Page 3 – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

McCarthy Road to Kennecott & the Erie Mine Trail to see the Root Glacier, Wrangell-St. Elias National Park, Alaska (9-3-19)

Day 30 of Lupe’s 2019 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

Early morning, Denali Highway, 2.5 miles SSE of Peak 4790 – Yesterday’s adventure to Peaks 4790 & 4403 had been a big hit, inspiring aspirations of taking on Peak 5210, or possibly even Tangle Benchmark (5,715 ft.) today. However, just a glance out the window of the G6 told the story. Paxson Mountain (5,226 ft.) was in the clouds, even Peak 4790 looked foggy. A gray mist in all directions. Forget it. Not happening.

Surprisingly, prospects changed during the drive S on the Richardson Highway. The rain stopped, the mists vanished, blue sky appeared! For the second day running, SPHP ignored the turn E on the Tok Cut-off.

Looks like we’re staying in Alaska! So, where are we off to, SPHP?

Can’t leave Alaska on a pretty day like today, Looper! It’s a bit of a drive, but there’s a spot that we’ve been meaning to get to for the past few years. How would you like to visit Wrangell-St. Elias National Park?

I thought US national parks didn’t allow Dingoes? You’re not planning to leave me stuck in the G6 all day are you?

Oh, come on! You know I wouldn’t do that to you, Looper! Yeah, it’s true US national parks aren’t normally Dingo friendly, but from what I’ve read online, maybe we can get away with a little more in Kennecott? Sounds like maybe no one would object if you had a look at the Root Glacier. Shall we go check it out?

The Root Glacier? We’re all for glaciers, aren’t we, SPHP? Sure, let’s do it! But if they won’t let me in, we’ll just turn around, OK? Unless you can take a real quick look.

Hah! Won’t be any quick look, Loop. First there’s some sort of shuttle bus ride, and then a trail that goes to the glacier. It’s a deal, though! If you aren’t allowed in the park, we’ll find something else to do.

*We’re going to see the Root Glacier! Ought to be fabulous! Why don’t you come along, too?*

10 miles S of the junction with the Glenn Highway E of Glenallen, SPHP stopped briefly at the Copper Center Visitor Center, headquarters for Wrangell-St. Elias National Park, to fill a few water bottles. A map was posted near the entrance showing McCarthy Road, which Lupe would be traveling to get close to Kennecott where the trail to the Root Glacier started.

Entrance to the Copper Center Visitor Complex, which seemed to be park HQ.

**Wrangell-St. Elias National Park** regional map.

Tips and advice for traveling **McCarthy Road**.

11:14 AM, 57ºF, Klutina River, MP 101 of the Richardson Highway – S of the Copper River Visitor Complex, the Richardson Highway crossed the Klutina River. Lupe was ready for a break from the G6. Since there was a place to park and access to the river, this seemed like a good spot to stretch those Dingo legs and have a sniff.

Unfortunately, the sky was now looking a bit stormy off to the E, calling the whole Root Glacier idea into question.

By the **Klutina River**. Photo looks downstream (E).

With the sky all gloomy over the Wrangell Range, there wasn’t any point in stopping at the Willow Lake viewpoint. Mount Drum (12,010 ft.), Mount Wrangell (14,163 ft.), and all the other white giants were socked in among the clouds. The weather was still decent along the Richardson Highway, though, so SPHP kept driving S.

The L (E) turn onto the Edgerton Highway came 5 miles S of Willow Lake. A sign said it was 94 miles to McCarthy. The Edgerton Highway was in beautiful shape. The first half dozen miles were arrow straight and went ENE descending a huge slope in a series of drops. The highway then leveled out and curved SE, eventually climbing a bluff overlooking the Copper River.

At the **Copper River** overlook along the Edgerton Highway. Photo looks N.

The Edgerton Highway continued SE on mountain slopes following the Copper River valley, but the river was seldom in view. Eventually the road left the river, winding S down a long valley where it passed 3 deep narrow lakes before arriving at the little community of Chitina.

Chitina was the official end of the 33 mile long Edgerton Highway. The road turned E here, and the pavement ended. Ahead was a gap blasted through solid rock that was only one lane wide. If there had been any on-coming traffic, a wait until it cleared would have been necessary.

The narrow gap was short. When the G6 emerged on the other side, Lupe found herself at the confluence of the Copper and Chitina Rivers. This was the start of the 60 mile long McCarthy Road and an amazing sight! Although low this time of year, both rivers still had considerable flow and impressive giant riverbeds.

McCarthy Road was gravel. Beyond the gap, it immediately turned NE hugging the base of a steep mountainside for nearly a mile before reaching a bridge over the Copper River.

**Copper River bridge** a mile from the start of **McCarthy Road**. Photo looks NE.

Downstream view. The **Chitina River** joins the **Copper River** from the E (L) at the base of the ridge seen dead ahead. Photo looks SE.

After crossing the bridge, McCarthy Road turned E along some bluffs overlooking yet another river. The Kotsina River was much smaller, but also had an impressive braided-channel floodplain. The Kotsina joined the Copper River only a mile upstream of the Chitina River confluence. Worth another stop!

The **Kotsina River** just upstream of its confluence with the **Copper River**, which flows R to L along the base of the far ridge. Photo looks W.

Beyond the Kotsina River, McCarthy Road wound up onto a forested ridge. Gravel turned to chip seal, a most definite improvement despite numerous rough breaks and pot-holes. About 4 miles from the Kotsina, a fabulous view of the Chitina River appeared on the R.

Checking out the **Chitina River**. Photo looks upstream (SE).

McCarthy Road now proceeded E through forested territory. Another 10 miles or so brought Lupe to the most famous point along McCarthy Road, the single lane bridge over the Kuskulana River.

Approaching the **Kuskulana River bridge**. Photo looks SE.

*We’ll be crossing the Kuskulana bridge in just a moment.*

The Kuskulana bridge had a metal support structure, but the roadbed was constructed of heavy wooden planks. The planks looked practically brand new. Very reassuring! The river itself was so deep in a heavily timbered valley that Lupe scarcely saw it, although SPHP drove super slowly while crossing the bridge.

Loopster at the **Kuskulana River bridge**, McCarthy Road. Photo looks SW.

After crossing the Kuskulana bridge, the chip seal ended. Gravel all the rest of the way! Potholes, washboardy, some stretches not real good. The usual sort of thing, but nothing impassable or out of the ordinary. McCarthy Road continued E or SE through some beautiful territory. Lupe saw two swans on Chokosna Lake.

One of many ponds and small lakes along McCarthy Road.

Two swans enjoying a float in light rain.

The next point of interest was the Gilahina Trestle at the Gilahina River, which was little more than a creek. The wooden trestle, a good portion of which was still intact, was built during the winter of 1910. The trestle was once part of the Copper River & Northwestern Railway serving the Kennecott copper mine in the early 20th century.

At the **Gilahina River** rest stop where part of the century old **Gilahina Trestle** still stands.

Historical information posted at the Gilahina rest stop.

Slow and scenic, McCarthy Road went on and on. Intermittent rain fell. The G6 had to ford 2 streams. Fortunately, neither was more than a foot deep. In one case, a beaver dam right next to the road was holding back water more than a foot higher than McCarthy Road itself.

SPHP drove past many signs saying “entering” or “leaving” Wrangell-St. Elias National Park, reflecting the existence of numerous stretches of private property. Homes, lodges, campgrounds, cabins for rent, tire repair businesses, and even small air strips all became increasingly frequent.

McCarthy Road finally started going downhill. Several miles later, the road leveled out. SPHP stopped at a visitor information station on the L. The little office was locked, but information was posted outside.

Local area map posted outside the first visitor information booth.

Oh, no! Dingoes not allowed on the shuttle vans!

Criminy! Dingoes weren’t allowed on the shuttle vans. That meant a 5 mile march up to the old Kennecott mill town before Lupe could even start on the trail to the Root Glacier. 60 miles on McCarthy Road had taken 2.5 hours with all the stops. Already after 3:00 PM!

A little farther along McCarthy Road was another visitor center. Why two? Maybe this second one was privately owned? This visitor center was clearly open. Outside a sign said free day use parking, or $5.00 overnight. SPHP drove on by to the end of McCarthy Road which wasn’t much farther. On the L was some sort of campground. A sign said “base camp”. Straight ahead was a long metal footbridge, the only way across the huge silty torrent of glacial meltwater comprising the fast-flowing Kennecott River.

We’re probably doomed Loop. Think we’ve arrived too late to see the Root Glacier today, since they won’t let you on the shuttle buses. Shall we try walking to Kennecott? Probably more sensible to wait until tomorrow, but who knows what the weather will be like then? Been sort of rainy on the way here. Might easily be worse tomorrow.

Up to you, SPHP. You’re the one who takes forever and a day, and will have to hurry. I know I can get there easily enough. If we don’t make it, we can always try again tomorrow, weather permitting.

Alrighty then. Let’s stash the G6 back at that free day parking place, and get after it. We can always turn back, if getting to the Root Glacier starts looking completely hopeless.

At the 2nd visitor information center, the one with the free day use parking.

3:34 PM, 61ºF, free day parking visitor center near the end of McCarthy Road – Throw everything in the pack and go! SPHP didn’t even bother stopping by the visitor center. Loopster was on her way to the Root Glacier! The end of McCarthy Road was only a short walk from here.

At the bitter **end of McCarthy Road**. The footbridge over the Kennecott River is dead ahead.

*Looks exciting already!* Loopster at the **Kennecott River footbridge**. Photo looks E.

The **Kennecott River**, fresh from the Kennecott & Root Glaciers. Photo looks NE.

Turned out there were two long metal footbridges, one after another. The second bridge went over a dry wash. Perhaps an abandoned channel of the Kennecott River, or one that only flowed during the spring melt when the river was high?

On the second footbridge. Photo looks E.

Looking up the dry wash from the 2nd footbridge. Photo looks NNE.

At the end of the second footbridge, a path on a level ridge paralleled a road that was a bit lower off to the L. The path was hundreds of feet long and passed an outhouse before rejoining the road a little beyond it. This appeared to be the point where shuttle buses picked up or dropped off lucky ticket holders.

Of course, that fortunate group did not include Lupe or SPHP. A long road hike was ahead. Still 4.5 miles up to Kennecott! 10 minutes on the road brought Lupe to an intersection. Here another road went hard R to McCarthy. Even though McCarthy must have been quite close, Lupe was in a rush. The American Dingo simply didn’t have time to check it out.

SPHP tried to walk fast. The road to Kennecott went gradually uphill. The day was getting sunnier, and the forced march began to feel mighty warm. Progress seemed both good and insufficient. Precious time was ticking away! Shuttle buses full of happy passengers zoomed by every 10 minutes or so, stirring up dust. A few passengers waved cheerfully at the two suckers along the road.

Private vehicles went by with some regularity, too. Apparently there was plenty of private property even over on this side of the Kennecott River. As the road started climbing at a faster clip, Lupe began passing cabins and vacation homes. Exactly how all these vehicles that kept coming and going got over here to begin with was a mystery.

The situation wasn’t looking good. The road hike was taking way too long. Hopes were fading when a white pickup slowed, then stopped. Need a ride? Sure! SPHP offered to pay. Unnecessary. Lupe and SPHP were invited to hop up into the back of the pickup. It still took a little while to get to Kennecott. Loop couldn’t have been more than halfway when her benefactor had arrived.

Ah, yes! This was the life! Zooming along effortlessly, Lupe rode facing into the breeze. At Kennecott, she got formally introduced to Robert, who had so kindly stopped for her. Robert had a cabin somewhere in the area, and had spent most of the summer here. He was on his way to the big hotel in Kennecott for dinner.

Lupe with her benefactor, Robert, and his fabulous free Dingo shuttle.

After many thanks, Robert went on his way. Lupe and SPHP had a look around. Robert had dropped the lucky Dingo off at the entrance to the Kennecott Mines National Historic Landmark.

Entering **Kennecott Mines National Historic Landmark**.

As historic old mining operations go, Kennecott was easily by far the most impressive example Lupe and SPHP had ever seen! Many huge old buildings were perched along a steep hillside overlooking the Kennecott Glacier. Some of these buildings were rotting away into various states of disrepair, but others had been remodeled and were in use for various functions. Concession stands, tour guides, equipment rentals, a shuttle ticket booth, and souvenir shops were all open.

A more thorough exploration of Kennecott would have been fun, but even with Robert’s help, Lupe still didn’t have any time to spare. An area trail map showed the American Dingo needed to head N on the one main street running through Kennecott. Robert was already up at the Kennecott Glacier Lodge overlooking the main drag, enjoying a drink while waiting for dinner. He shouted and waved as Lupe and SPHP went by.

*If we’d had more time, we would have joined Robert for drinks and dinner up on the balcony of the **Kennecott Glacier Lodge**!*

The enormous Kennecott Glacier could be seen between some of the buildings Lupe was going by. Completely covered with dirt and rock, the Kennecott Glacier didn’t even look like a glacier, more like a vast gravel pit gone wild. A strange and desolate scene, and a dangerous region!

A glimpse of the Kennecott Glacier on the way through Kennecott. Photo looks WSW.

Heading N through **Kennecott**. What an impressive operation this must have been!

The **Kennecott Copper Mine** operated from 1911 to 1938.

Looking back toward the **toe of the Kennecott Glacier**. Photo looks SSW.

**Kennecott Glacier** (L). The Root Glacier joins in a little farther up the valley. Photo looks NNW.

At the N end of Kennecott, the street narrowed down to a nice level jeep or ATV trail. A scenic 15 minute stroll through the forest brought Lupe to a junction.

On the ATV route as it leaves the N end of Kennecott. Photo looks N.

Approaching the first trail junction. Photo looks NNE.

Awesome, rugged territory, with a particularly beautiful peak on the L! Photo looks NNE with help from the telephoto lens.

At the trail junction N of Kennecott. Photo looks N, the way Lupe was headed.

Signs for 4 different trails were at the junction. The Jumbo Mine and Bonanza Mine trails went to the R. Those trails were big climbs up to more abandoned mining operations. Lupe went L, sticking with the Root Glacier and Erie Mine trails.

Not far from the junction, Loop crossed a wooden bridge over Bonanza Creek. The trail was still flat and easy, but remained in the forest. The Carolina Dog was 15 minutes beyond the junction when she finally got a good glimpse of the Kennecott Glacier again. A couple minutes later, the view really opened up. Donoho Peak (6,696 ft.) was in sight beyond the confluence of the Root and Kennecott Glaciers!

A glimpse of the **Kennecott Glacier** from N of Bonanza Creek. Photo looks SW.

Another 5 minutes brought Lupe to a big gash in the hillside she was on created by Jumbo Creek. The trail went steeply up along the near side of the gash, before dropping down a bit to cross Jumbo Creek right below a waterfall. Lupe spent several minutes exploring the waterfall before taking a narrow bridge over the stream.

By the edge of the gash eroded out by Jumbo Creek. Photo looks N.

Immediately beyond the Jumbo Creek bridge, a short very narrow stretch of trail traversed a steep slope. The sure-pawed Carolina Dog had no problem with it. Even SPHP managed to trudge across in one piece. 8 minutes from Jumbo Creek, Loop came to another junction.

**Kennecott Glacier** from N of Jumbo Creek. Photo looks SW.

Close up of the **Kennecott Glacier** with help from the telephoto lens.

The Root Glacier and Erie Mine trails parted ways here. Off to the L, the Root Glacier trail went down to the glacier, which wasn’t very far away. In fact, it was possible to rent crampons back in Kennecott and venture right out onto the Root Glacier, but SPHP hadn’t done that.

At the **junction of the Root Glacier** and **Erie Mine trails**. Photo looks NW.

Lupe’s mission was to get all the way to the end of the Erie Mine trail, which continued on up the valley paralleling the Root Glacier. At the end, if the American Dingo got that far, she would have a grand view of the Stairway Icefall coming down from vast snowfields surrounding splendid Regal Mountain (13,845 ft.).

A little beyond the junction, Loop crossed a plank bridge over Amazon Creek, last of the 3 streams she would have to get over. So nice that they all had bridges!

The Erie Mine trail stayed well above the Root Glacier all the time. At first, the glacier was seldom in sight as the trail often passed through forests behind a lateral moraine. Once in a while, the trail ventured up onto the moraine. During these stretches, Lupe often caught glimpses of the glacier.

**Root Glacier** (foreground) with the **Kennecott Glacier** beyond it. Photo looks WNW.

The sun was getting low. The need for speed never let up. As the Erie Mine trail went on and on, the vegetation began to thin out. The trail spent more time up on the lateral moraine. Views of the Root Glacier started opening up, and continued to improve as Lupe headed N.

The **Root Glacier** from a magnificent opening. **Donoho Peak** (R). Photo looks NW.

Confluence of the **Root** (foreground) and **Kennecott Glaciers**. Photo looks W.

**Root** and **Kennecott Glaciers**. Photo looks SW.

Same shot zoomed in a bit. **Fireweed Mountain (6,956 ft.)** in the background.

Occasionally the path still strayed back into the forest. Now whenever the Erie Mine trail returned to the lateral moraine, Lupe had panoramic views. From the edge, loose slopes plunged down to meltwater pools flanking the Root Glacier.

The views opened up as the vegetation diminished. **Donoho Peak** (L). Photo looks NW.

Now and then the **Erie Mine trail** returned to the forest behind the lateral moraine. Photo looks NNW.

Along the crumbling rim of the moraine. Photo looks NNW.

Portions of the lateral moraine had collapsed. A steep slope prevented Lupe from seeing farther up the valley. The Erie Mine trail went up and around the missing moraine. Part of Stairway Icefall was now in sight! However, a mountainside jutting out to the W still frustrated Lupe’s hopes of getting a completely unobstructed view.

Another glance back. **Fireweed Mountain** (R). Photo looks SW.

Part of the **Stairway Icefall** is now in sight at the upper end of the **Root Glacier**. Still need to get past that next slope (R) to get a really good look at it. Photo looks NNW.

**Stairway Icefall** with help from the telephoto lens.

Whether it would even be possible to get around that next bend wasn’t clear. The top of the lateral moraine became very skinny. Even parts of the trail had collapsed. Lupe had to go 20 or 30 feet down a steep bank into a little valley on the E side of the moraine to avoid a treacherously unstable portion of the trail perched on the brink of disaster.

A porcupine was in the way. Lupe wisely stayed away from it, but the porcupine took its sweet time sauntering off what now served as a trail. No official trail was down here, but hikers had evidently been this way. After getting past a 200 or 300 foot stretch of unsafe moraine, Loopster returned to the top again.

Getting there! Almost past the mountainside partially blocking the view of the **Stairway Icefall**. Photo looks NNW.

200 feet farther, the trail again left the moraine. Looper was in a rocky ditch. Two thick steel cables hung so low over the trail that SPHP had to duck. Unseen somewhere 3,000 feet higher up the mountain to the R (E) was the Erie Mine.

Two steel cables near the end of the Erie Mine trail. Photo looks NNE.

Beyond the cables, the path quickly led back to a barren spot with a bit of room up on top of the lateral moraine. Success! This had to be it! Lupe had reached the end of the Erie Mine trail.

Further advance beyond this point looked feasible, but time-consuming. Ahead a steeply angled rock wall promised to put an end to that option before too long.

Two boards were laying next to the drop-off at the end of the barren spot, perhaps both to signal the official end of the trail and serve as a warning. This was good enough, anyway. Lupe finally had her clear view of the Stairway Icefall at the upper end of the Root Glacier!

**Stairway Icefall** & the **Root Glacier** from the **end of the Erie Mine trail**. Photo looks N.

Unfortunately, low clouds completely hid mighty Regal Mountain and the vast snowfields above Stairway Icefall that fed the Root Glacier. Nothing to be done about that. Already 8:00 PM. The sun was about to sink into a bank of clouds near the horizon. Lupe was lucky to have made it to the end of the Erie Mine trail in time to see anything at all.

What could be seen was still tremendously impressive! From the end of the Erie Mine trail, the Carolina Dog had a sweeping view of the entire Root Glacier from the Stairway Icefall clear down the valley all the way back to its confluence with the Kennecott Glacier.

**Stairway Icefall** and the **upper end of the Root Glacier**. Photo looks N.

Lupe at the **end of the Erie Mine trail**. Photo looks N.

Sadly not much time to enjoy this magnificent spot. Those tricky points along the trail made it important to get back past them before dark. Lupe could take a short break, though. She relaxed having a Taste of the Wild dinner, while enjoying the fabulous Root Glacier view.

*A river of ice! Hard to believe it even when you’re right here looking at it!*

**Root Glacier ice** with help from the telephoto lens.

Zoomed in on the **Stairway Icefall**. Photo looks N.

Looking back. **Fireweed Mountain** (Center). Photo looks SW.

*So what do you think? Coming to see the **Root Glacier** was totally worth it, wasn’t it?*

The sun vanished. 20 minutes gone. Better get with it. If it hadn’t been for Robert, Lupe would never have made it this far.

On the way back, the porcupine was hogging the trail again. It scurried away as Lupe and SPHP approached, but refused to leave the Erie Mine trail. Scurry? I meant amble. Porcupines rarely see any need to rush. This one certainly didn’t. Come on, come on! For hundreds of feet, Lupe followed the porcupine at a safe distance while it plodded S at a most distinguished pace.

The porcupine finally ceded the trail to the American Dingo. From then on the return was a race back while the light still held. Fun times, as long as the Root Glacier was still visible in the gathering gloom.

Pitch dark long before Lupe got back to Kennecott. A few scattered lights in the old mining mill town, but not a soul out and about. Downhill all the way now to the footbridges over the Kennecott River. A weary 5 mile tramp, but so what? McCarthy Road, Kennecott, the Erie Mine trail had all been a terrific success.

Best of all, a certain beloved Carolina Dog really had seen the ancient Stairway Icefall that still feeds Alaska’s fabulous Root Glacier! (9-4-19, 12:48 AM)

**Stairway Icefall** and the **Root Glacier** from the **end of the Erie Mine trail**, Wrangell-St. Elias National Park, Alaska 9-3-19

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

Root Glacier Trail & Erie Mine Trail Description & Map

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Peak 4790 & Peak 4403, Hayes Range, Amphitheater Mountains, Alaska (9-2-19)

Day 29 of Lupe’s 2019 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

6:53 AM, 57ºF, Anchorage – Light rain, and quite breezy, even down here in Anchorage. Lupe had her answer. The Carolina Dog wasn’t going to get another shot at Wolverine Peak (4,491 ft.). Barely into September, Looper should have had more time here, but smoke, wind and rain had made Alaska difficult this year. Maybe Alaska was over?

That was the big question du jour. Was it time to leave? Driving E out of Anchorage, SPHP pondered the issue. The answer, of course, hinged on the weather.

The rain ended. The pavement was dry on the way to Palmer. Maybe Lupe ought to give the Reindeer Hills (5,102 ft.) another look? Started that way, but it was raining again in Wasilla. Nah! Not going to work. Too far out of the way, and too iffy. Back to the Glenn Highway and E!

Again the rain quit. Sunshine! A beautiful day by the time Lupe reached Gunsight Mountain (6,441 ft.). Syncline Mountain (5,471 ft.) was out in the clear, too. Most encouraging, but Lupe had been to both of them. Farther E there was smoke, again. The great mental debate raged on.

Gakona Junction. Decision time. Sunny, 58ºF, breezy. Based on no more than the favorable prospects of the moment, instead of heading E on the Tok Cut-off, SPHP drove N on the Richardson Highway. The American Dingo wasn’t cutting and running quite yet!

3:31 PM, 58ºF, pullout along the Denali Highway (about MP 11?) near the larger lake N of Octopus Lake – Sort of late in the day to be taking off into the Alaskan wilderness, but the S end of Peak 4790 was already visible a mere 2.5 miles from the highway. Still breezy, but comfortably warm. Prospects weren’t nearly as sanguine as they had been back at Gakona Junction, though. Most of the sunshine had disappeared on the drive N. Heavy clouds hung low in a brooding sky.

Well, now or never! Better not dilly-dally. Lupe took a quick look at the unnamed lake next to the highway, and was on her way.

**Peak 4790** (R of Center) from the Denali Highway. Photo looks NW.

Checking out the lake next to the highway. **Peak 4679** (R). Photo looks SW.

Sticking with the highway, Lupe trotted N past a big drainage that came down out of the NW. The slopes W of the highway were full of bushes, but she soon came to a spot where they weren’t as thick. Abandoning the road, the Carolina Dog proceeded up this slope.

The more open ground soon ended, but had already helped Looper get past the worst of the bushes.

Upper end of the open ground NW of the highway. **Peak 4790** (R). Photo looks NW.

No avoiding them now – more bushes ahead, but they weren’t too bad. Following faint animal trails, SPHP could usually push through without too much difficulty. Although dry, the tundra between bushes was soft and spongy. Felt good on the paws, no doubt, but crossing the springy terrain required extra effort.

Avoiding the bushes was key to making the trek as easy as possible. A second priority was to reach firmer ground. Small ridges slightly higher than the surrounding terrain frequently provided the best support. Brilliant red tundra tended to flourish on these little ridges, making them easy to spot.

Minor ridges like this one cloaked in crimson provided the best footing. **Peak 4790** (R). Photo looks NW.

As Loopster headed higher, a series of small drainages presented the only real obstacles. The drainages tended to be either full of bushes, or rimmed with them. Lupe made several steep 30 foot climbs coming out of these ravines.

Brilliant red tundra greets Lupe as she emerges from a ravine.

Instead of going directly toward Peak 4790, Lupe aimed for high ground along a ridgeline to the NW. SPHP thought the terrain might be firmer up there. Yet no matter how far NW Loop went, she never quite seemed to reach the ridgeline. SPHP finally figured out the ridge was merely an illusion. This was all one big slope.

On a nice solid ramp leading higher. Photo looks N.

The journey to Peak 4790 was absolutely gorgeous! Vivid yellows, golds, oranges and reds of the early autumn landscape contrasted against the gray gloom overhead. Sometimes Peak 4790 was in sight, and sometimes not, as Lupe turned N directly toward it. Wandering ever higher, the American Dingo roamed at will.

Despite a dull day, the tundra was incredible! **Peak 4790** (R). Photo looks NNW.

Crossing a minor drainage. Photo looks W.

The terrain gradually steepened as Lupe closed in on Peak 4790. Still easy going!

Getting closer! **Peak 4790** (Center). Photo looks N.

The views were improving. Snow and glacier-clad peaks off to the NE were only partially hidden by clouds. To the SE, Lupe could see many small lakes back down by the Denali Highway where she’d started out. Beyond them were the vast NW slopes of Paxson Mountain (5,226 ft.). Off to the SW, ponds were coming into view in the saddle between the S ends of Peak 4790 and Peak 4403.

**Paxson Mountain** (L) and lakes down by the Denali Highway. Photo looks SE.

Tarns between Peak 4790 and **Peak 4403** (R). Photo looks SW.

Looper pressed on. Tangle Benchmark (5,715 ft.) came into sight well beyond Peak 4403. Far to the SW, the American Dingo could also see Swede Mountain (4,660 ft.), which she’d climbed only 4 days ago.

Sunshine on the upper S slopes of **Peak 4790** as Lupe approaches. Photo looks N.

**Tangle Benchmark** (Center) beyond **Peak 4403** (L). Photo looks NW.

*Remember Swede Mountain? It’s at far R beyond the near ridge.* Photo looks SW.

A SE shoulder swept up toward Peak 4790’s summit. Lupe ventured over to this shoulder before turning NW directly toward the mountain. From here, some rockiness was visible along the steep SE face.

The final 200 feet up the S slope were the only steep part of the ascent. Sort of rocky, sparsely vegetated, but no great feat. Peak 4790 was just a big hill!

As Lupe approached the summit, a patch of blue sky sailed overhead. Despite brilliant sunshine, an annoyingly strong S wind felt cold. The temperature had been dropping all afternoon.

Climbing the upper S slope. Photo looks NNE.

When Lupe popped over the S rim, a spacious summit was spread out before her. The whole thing was a mix of rocks and tundra reminiscent of summits Loop had visited at Whistle Ridge and Swede Mountain. This entire region was quite flat, except toward the far N end where the plateau rose 5 to 10 feet.

*Here we are on top of **Peak 4790**! Looks like the true summit is still a little farther.* Photo looks NE.

Intent on reaching the true summit, Lupe proceeded toward the rise at the far end, which looked like it might be some sort of definite minor summit ridge near N the edge of the mountain.

Turned out it was neither. Upon reaching the rise, Lupe discovered not only that it was not any definite ridgeline, but that it wasn’t near the edge of the mountain either. Another vast expanse of the summit region lay beyond it. This N section sloped gradually down to the NE, and looked much the same as the plain Lupe had just crossed. The highest ground did appear to be somewhere along this central rise.

Countless rocks might have been the marginally highest true summit of Peak 4790. One prime candidate was a bit larger, and stood out slightly from the rest. The Carolina Dog wasn’t enjoying the cold wind, and urged SPHP to hurry up! As far as she was concerned, this rock could be the official Dingo-sanctioned true summit!

On the windy true summit of **Peak 4790**. Photo looks NNE.

The most impressive views from Peak 4790 were all to the N. Anxious to escape the wind, Lupe and SPHP continued on to the far NNE end of the summit plateau. Loop roamed a fair distance below where the rocky slope started to steepen before SPHP finally called a halt. The maneuver wasn’t as successful as it might have been. The slope provided scant protection from the cold breeze.

Nevertheless, no sense in losing too much elevation. Time for a break! The rocky terrain wasn’t terribly comfortable. Lupe soon decided to curl up on SPHP’s lap. SPHP tossed a jacket over her for additional warmth. Much better! Windy and cool, but this 20 – 25 mph breeze didn’t even begin to compare with yesterday’s powerful tempest at Wolverine Peak.

Resting while showers sweep over the territory N of **Peak 4790**. Photo looks N.

Off to the N, showers drifted over high tundra plains, a dark blue line of mountains beyond them. The most spectacular sight was a distant view of the Gulkana Glacier miles to the NE.

Part of **Fielding Lake** is visible in this view to the NNE.

Showers on the tundra plains. Photo looks N with help from the telephoto lens.

**Gulkana Glacier** from Peak 4790. Photo looks NE with help from the telephoto lens.

Many smaller glaciers were also visible along a distant line of peaks to the N. To the E, a good chunk of Summit Lake was in sight. Lupe could see all of Sevenmile Lake, which was only a few miles away. However, this was not the same Sevenmile Lake the Carolina Dog had seen from East Glacier Gap Mountain (6,060 ft.) 5 days ago.

Many more glaciers were visible a long way off. Photo looks N with help from the telephoto lens.

**Summit Lake** is the big one. Part of **Sevenmile Lake** is at far R. Photo looks ENE with help from the telephoto lens.

Already getting late in the day. The views were grand, but Lupe couldn’t linger too long, since the plan was to visit nearby Peak 4403 as well. 20 minutes after starting her rest break, it was time for the American Dingo to be moving on.

Peak 4790’s entire summit region including both the N and S halves was maybe 20 acres in size. Before departing, a little more exploration along some of the edges seemed like a good idea. Lupe first sniffed her way along part of the SE rim. Views of Paxon Mountain and all the little lakes down by the Denali Highway were the highlights in this direction.

**Paxon Mountain** (L) and **Peak 4679** (R) from Peak 4790’s SE rim. Photo looks SSE.

To complete her summit tour, Lupe then crossed over to the opposite side of the mountain. Peering down over the W edge, the Carolina Dog could scarcely believe her eyes! Caribou! A whole herd of them, 30 or 40 strong, was hanging out on a big slope to the N. The caribou were much lower and quite a long way off.

Part of the caribou herd down on the N flank of Peak 4790. Photo looks NNW with help from the telephoto lens.

Lupe raced toward the herd a little way to get a better view, then stopped. The caribou weren’t even aware of her. Caribou watching is among the most intensely exciting and enjoyable experiences an American Dingo will ever have. Lupe was entranced! The herd grazed peacefully for several minutes before they picked up her scent.

Upon seeing movement, the excitement was just too much! Lupe let out a single sharp yip, instantly alerting the caribou to her presence. The caribou didn’t like the notion of company. Suddenly the whole herd took off running up to the top of Peak 4790. Racing across the summit, within seconds they all disappeared over the same SE edge Loopster had been exploring only a few minutes ago.

The thrilling caribou on their way across the **summit of Peak 4790**. Photo looks NE with help from the telephoto lens.

Disappointed by the caribou’s sudden departure, Lupe came running back to tell SPHP all about them. She then finished her tour of Peak 4790 heading S along the W rim. Peak 4403, her next objective, was in sight beyond a 0.25 mile wide valley. Off to the NW, both summits of Peak 5210 were visible with Tangle Benchmark (5,715 ft.) beyond them.

Returning from the caribou watch. **Gulkana Glacier** (L). Photo looks NE.

Looking NW from the W rim. **Peak 5210‘s S summit** is at Center. The **N summit** is the middle high point of the 3 straight up from Lupe. The high point straight up from Lupe’s head is **Tangle Benchmark**. Photo looks NW.

**Peak 4403**, Lupe’s next objective, is the nearby lower hill at Center. **Swede Mountain** is the hill past the lakes beyond it. The big knob at R is **HP4900+** at the S end of Peak 5210. Photo looks SW.

Peak 4790 had been an exhilarating experience! Lupe was still all stirred up about it. Upon reaching the S end of the summit, realizing that SPHP was about to head back down to possible caribou country, Loop decided she wanted to roam ahead looking for more.

*Just follow after me, SPHP! Don’t worry, I’ll be down below sniffing out more caribou!* Photo looks SSW.

Returning caribouless to check on SPHP. **Peak 4403** (R). Photo looks SSW.

Sadly, an initial search did not turn up any more caribou. Even so, the American Dingo’s faith and enthusiasm remained undimmed.

Once SPHP made it down most of Peak 4790’s S slope, it was time to think about how to get over to Peak 4403. Rather than going all the way S to the saddle with the big tarns leading over to it, a direct approach crossing the intervening valley was decided upon.

*Probably more caribou out there somewhere, if I watch closely enough!* **Peak 4403** (L), **S summit of Peak 5210** (R), and **Tangle Benchmark** (far R). Photo looks W.

Oh, it was such a beautiful trek! Lupe was so happy roaming a valley of gold. The promised land, if ever there was one! A little stream along the W side was the only obstacle, and it was easily hopped.

So happy in the valley of gold between **Peak 4403** (L) and **Peak 4790** (R)! Photo looks N.

Looking back at **Peak 4790**. Photo looks NE.

Once across the valley, the climb up Peak 4403’s NE slope was actually quite steep. Lupe had scarcely started the ascent when she came across a rock upon which a large, beautiful, fan-shaped lichen was growing. SPHP was so impressed with it, that this officially became the “Lichen Route” up Peak 4403.

The amazing fan-shaped lichen of the Lichen Route.

The Lichen Route goes straight up from Lupe, then to the L. Photo looks NW.

The climb up Peak 4403’s NE slope may have been steep, but only for a few hundred feet. Lupe then reached the ridge N of the summit. A short trek S brought Loop to the base of a final rocky climb up a big knob.

Approaching **Peak 4403** from the **N ridge.** Photo looks S.

The top of Peak 4403 featured two humps separated by hundreds of feet. The hump farthest N, which Lupe reached first, was somewhat lower than the S hump. A rock formation a few feet high was situated along the N edge of the N hump. The S wind had still been roaring when Lupe left Peak 4790, but had died down quite a bit by now. Sheltering on the N side of the rock formation during a brief rest break still seemed like a good idea.

**Peak 5210‘s S summit** (Center) from Peak 4403’s N hump. Photo looks NW.

Loop during a break on the N hump. **Peak 4790** in the background. Photo looks NE.

The sky remained overcast. A thin line of sunshine on mountains far to the E was the only indication that the sun was still above the horizon. Lupe pressed on to the higher S hump. A few big rocks encrusted with black lichens were scattered about. The true summit of Peak 4403 was a marginally higher rock along the N side of the S hump.

2.5 miles back to the G6. Light was going to be fading soon. 10 or 15 more minutes was all Lupe could spare before moving on.

At the **true summit of Peak 4403**. The lower N hump is in the foreground on the R. Photo looks NW.

**Peak 4790** from Peak 4403. Photo looks NE.

**Fourteen Mile Lake** (Center) with **Swede Mountain** beyond. **Swede Lake** is the large lake in the distance on the L. Photo looks SW.

**Paxon Mountain** (Center). Photo looks SE.

Fleeting glorious minutes flew by. Better get on with it.

Onward! Puppy, ho!

Heading down the S side of Peak 4403, the Carolina Dog picked up a faint ATV trail. She followed the ATV trail S for some distance before finally abandoning it to turn SE toward Paxon Mountain.

The sun was down. The remaining breeze had vanished along with it. A beautiful evening, but light was already fading fast. Sensing the need for speed, Lupe was energetic. Down in the saddle that led to the region S of Peak 4790, the American Dingo roamed far and wide, while SPHP tried to avoid bushes and stay on solid ground.

**Peak 4790** (L) during the descent. Photo looks NE.

Down in the saddle region. **Peak 4790** (L). Photo looks NE.

Lupe went past a big tarn, and saw several more. For the most part, SPHP had decent success finding firm terrain, although there were areas of spongy tundra full of potholes, too.

Passing a big tarn. **Peak 4790** in the background. Photo looks NNE.

A final glance back at **Peak 4403**. Photo looks NW.

Once past the tarns, the long slope leading down to the Denali Highway came into view. Way, way down there, at a second pullout a little NE of where the G6 was parked, a campfire was in sight. Starting to get dark, but that campfire provided a good target. The return was now a race to get down to it. Toward the end came the inevitable bushwhack, but it still wasn’t completely dark when the thrashing around ended as the Carolina Dog finally reached the road. (9:23 PM)

Good thing Lupe hadn’t abandoned Alaska yet. Peaks 4790 and 4403 had been an adventure the American Dingo wouldn’t soon forget!

**Peak 4790**, Hayes Range of the Amphitheater Mountains, Alaska 9-2-19

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