Sangre de Christo Range – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Wheeler Peak, Sangre de Cristo Range, the New Mexico State High Point (6-27-23)

Days 20 – 22 of Lupe’s 1st Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Colorado & New Mexico!

6-26-23, 12:43 PM, Taos Ski Village – On the deck overlooking a rushing stream, SPHP sipped on a cherry sour.

Mushroom Swiss burger, Loop! Sure you don’t want a bite? Very tasty!

Lupe sat in the shade, content to merely watch SPHP eat while enjoying the sound of the water. The Carolina Dog could have gone into Door 38 Pizza – Taos Ale House; it was a dog friendly establishment, but SPHP was so filthy that avoiding the rest of the clientele as much as possible seemed prudent.

Out on the **Door 38 Pizza – Taos Ale House deck**.

Not interested, aye? Your loss, Loopster! Guess I’ll polish off the whole burger then.

After a steep, dusty drive up a wide gravel road, Lupe spent the rest of the afternoon hanging out at the Williams Lake trailhead. 40+ vehicles were there when SPHP pulled the RAV4 into the last available parking spot, but the popular trailhead began emptying out as the day wore on.

**Rich Peak (12,535 ft.)** (L of Center) from the **Williams Lake trailhead**. Photo looks S.

By evening, the American Dingo had a change of heart. Back at Door 38 Pizza – Taos Ale House again, this time when SPHP ordered a second Swiss Mushroom burger plus french fries, Lupe was not only a willing participant, but eager to make up for her earlier abstinence.

6-27-23, 7:27 AM – The big paved parking lot at the entrance to the Taos Ski Village that had been jam packed yesterday was practically empty when Lupe leapt out of the RAV4.

We’re leaving from here, SPHP? What happened to the Williams Lake trailhead?

A nice guy named John at the little barn-like visitor center gave me a nifty trail system map yesterday, Loop. We can start from here, and make a huge loop coming back down that way. Longer and more elevation gain the way we’re going, but you can tag a few more peaks along the way, too.

As long as we still make it to Wheeler Peak (13,161 ft.), that’s fine, SPHP. Loops are awesome; I’m practically named after them! Don’t want to miss out on only my 6th state high point ever, though.

Eh, never any guarantees in the mountains, Loopster. You know that. The forecast is kind of iffy no matter which way we go. If the weather holds up, we’ll make it. Trail all the way!

So where do we go, SPHP?

The Bull-of-the-Woods trailhead is right here, Looper, a couple hundred feet from the visitor center. Onward! Puppy, ho!

Bound for the top of New Mexico, the Carolina Dog set out on Wheeler Peak Trail No. 90.

The paved parking lot at the **entrance to the Taos Ski Village**. The **barn-shaped shed** on the L is the **visitor information center**. Photo looks SE.

**Bull-of-the-Woods trailhead**. The gravel road on the R goes to the Williams Lake trailhead.

**Free trail system map** available at the visitor center.

Entering the forest, the single track trail became broad and rather rocky. Climbing NE at a good clip, it paralleled an unseen stream hidden among the trees off to the R. After a 15 minute trek, Lupe came to a spot with a view of the stream, which was now quite close to the trail.

Pressing on, Trail No. 90 became less rocky, and sometimes leveled out. Another 20 minutes, during which glimpses of the stream continued to appear, got the American Dingo to a tributary coming down from Long Canyon. SPHP was happy to see a makeshift bridge of branches.

**Wheeler Peak Trail No. 90**. More roots and fewer rocks now. Photo looks NE.

Hah! Don’t even have to get our paws wet, Looper!

It’s summer! Nothing wrong with cooling your paws off, SPHP.

Beyond the ford, Lupe reached a junction with Long Canyon Trail No. 63.

At the **junction of Wheeler Peak Trail No. 90** and **Long Canyon Trail No. 63**.

Junction signage. **Long Canyon Trail No. 63** (L).

Sticking with Wheeler Peak Trail No. 90, the broad single track trail soon merged with an old roadbed. Despite the absence of any other obstacles, due to the steepness of the incline, SPHP had to keep pausing to gasp for air. With no views other than the forest, the road trek quickly became monotonous.

The rate of climb finally diminished as Lupe approached Bull-of-the-Woods Pasture.

Arriving at **Bull-of-the-Woods Pasture**. Photo looks NNE.

Located in the saddle region between Gold Hill (12,711 ft.) 2.5 miles NW, and Bull-of-the-Woods Mountain (11,640 ft.) less than 0.75 mile S, Bull-of-the Woods Pasture was not at all what SPHP expected.

You thought there would be more grass, SPHP?

Yeah, guess it was the word “pasture” that threw me, Loop. Kind of thought we might be able to see something from up here, too.

Well, it does have the “woods” part down, SPHP.

I’ll grant you that, Looper.

Actually there was a clearing at Bull-of-the-Woods Pasture, it just wasn’t as extensive as SPHP had envisioned. Furthermore, although Gold Hill wasn’t in sight, the forested N side of Bull-of-the-Woods Mountain was.

**Bull-of-the-Woods Mountain** (R) from **Bull-of-the-Woods Pasture**. Photo looks SSE.

Gold Hill Trail No. 64 branched off to the L here. Taking Wheeler Peak Trail No. 90 instead, it immediately curled SE, crossing a creek issuing from a small pond. The dirt road ahead looked new, and the sound of machinery came from this direction. Following this road, a single track trail soon branched off to the R as a light rain began to fall.

A sign said “Redi’s Run”.

At the **Bull-of-the-Woods Pasture pond and stream.** Photo looks NE.

On the new, or at least recently graded, dirt road. **Redi’s Run trail** (R).

Redi’s Run? Hang on, Loop, let’s get off the road. Not sure which way we need to go here.

Putting on the red rain jacket as it began raining harder, SPHP then checked the maps.

Hmm. No Redi’s Run mentioned on any of these maps, not even the one from the visitor center.

Maybe Redi is the name of the Bull-of-the-Woods, SPHP? He might come running through here at any moment!

Hope not. Didn’t bring any red capes to dodge him with.

Use your rain jacket, SPHP. It’s red!

Wasn’t necessary. An approaching roar proved to be a loaded logging truck coming down the road. A few minutes later, an empty truck backed up it.

Since Redi’s Run seemed destined to go downhill rather than up, once the empty logging truck disappeared from sight, Lupe followed it. She soon came to the place where it was being loaded.

Approaching the logging operation. Photo looks SE.

Rather than charge through all the activity, SPHP encouraged Lupe to go around it. Upon regaining the road on Bull-of-the-Woods Mountain’s N ridge, the Carolina Dog enjoyed her first distant view of the day, a look at Baldy Mountain (12,441 ft.) beyond the Red River valley.

**Red River valley** (Center), **Baldy Mountain** (R). Photo looks NE.

Despite cloudy skies, the sun reappeared. However, as Lupe continued along the freshly graded logging road around the upper W slopes of Bull-of-the-Woods Mountain, the sky darkened again.

Circling around **Bull-of-the-Woods Mountain**. Photo looks WSW.

Reaching the N end of Pass 11514, Wheeler Peak Trail No. 90 turned S as a single track, parting from the road, which veered N. Lupe took shelter beneath a spruce tree as it began to rain again.

Nothing too serious yet, but this might not be our day, Looper.

Don’t give up so easily, SPHP.

Oh, I’m not, Loopster! The top of Bull-of-the-Woods Mountain is real close, though, only 100 feet higher up the road. Won’t take us long. Want to tag the summit so you can claim at least one peakbagging success today no matter what else happens?

I’m all in, SPHP!

As soon as the rain abated, the American Dingo followed the road N.

Approaching the **Bull-of-the-Woods summit region**. Photo looks N.

The free trail system map from the visitor center didn’t mention it, but the topo maps showed mines on Bull-of-the-Woods Mountain. As Lupe approached the summit region, forest gave way to a ridge of loose rock that had clearly been disturbed. Going around the W end of this ridge, the Carolina Dog found a wide, almost level gash that had been carved across the mountain. Beyond the gap, a higher ridge looked natural.

6-27-23, 10:15 AM, 50ºF, Bull-of-the-Woods Mountain (11,640 ft.) – A short scramble to the top of this second ridge, and Lupe reached a pile of rocks evidently serving as a loosely assembled cairn. The Carolina Dog might have enjoyed the excellent view of Fraser Mountain (12,163 ft.), her next objective due S, but conditions were none too pleasant.

A 20-25 mph W wind swept over the barren, exposed summit driving a cold light rain.

**Fraser Mountain** (Center) from **Bull-of-the-Woods Mountain**. **Peak 13054** (L of Center) in the distance. Photo looks S.

Bull-of-the-Woods Mountain offered other views, too, notably Gold Hill (12,716 ft.) off to the NNW. However, a few minutes atop the wet, windy summit was enough. Lupe returned to the road and protection of the forest. By the time the American Dingo got back to where Wheeler Peak Trail No. 90 left the road near Pass 11514, the rain had ended.

Back at **Wheeler Peak Trail No. 90**. **Pass 11514** (Center) ahead. Photo looks S.

Well, phooey! Sorry about that, Loop. Seems we tagged Bull-of-the-Woods Mountain at the worst possible moment.

Still counts as a peakbagging success, SPHP. Maybe we’ll be luckier at Fraser Mountain?

Continuing down to the saddle at Pass 11514, Lupe crossed it. Trail No. 90 switchbacked SW, then SE, climbing through thick forest. Reaching a clearing where the trail turned SW again, it provided a terrific view of Gold Hill and mining-scarred Bull-of-the-Woods Mountain back to the N.

**Gold Hill** (L) and **Bull-of-the-Woods Mountain** (R). Photo looks N.

From this viewpoint, Trail No. 90 headed straight for the closest of a long line of snowbanks on the E side of the enormous ridge leading to Frazer Mountain, promptly vanishing beneath the snow. Climbing up and over the first snowbank, Lupe found no sign of the trail beyond it. However, the general direction she needed to go was clear. Heading S across flat, open ground, the Carolina Dog made rapid progress.

Heading for the big snowbanks on the E side of the ridge leading to Frazer Mountain. Photo looks SSW.

Searching for Trail No. 90 again on the way to Frazer Mountain. Photo looks SSE.

Near the end of the flat part of the gently rounded ridge, Lupe picked up Wheeler Peak Trail No. 90 again, which gradually climbed S along the windy W side of the ridge. At treeline now, the views were awesome! Kachina Peak (12,481 ft.) and Lake Fork Peak (12,881 ft.) were both in sight on the opposite side of the Taos Ski Valley, still sporting some snow.

**Lake Fork Peak** (Center), **Kachina Peak** (R of Center). Photo looks SSW.

The trail went by the upper end of a forested section, then remained out on open ground as it went clear to the top of Frazer Mountain’s N ridge. In addition to seeing all the gorgeous peaks towering over the upper end of the Taos Ski Valley, Lupe got to sniff some stunning wildflowers along the way.

Heading for the top of the ridge after passing the forested section. **Lake Fork Peak** (R). Photo looks S.

Wheeler Peak Trail No. 90 reached the top of the ridge only 0.1 mile N of Frazer Mountain, but did not go up to the summit, instead swinging over to the E side of the ridge. The W wind was especially powerful on top of the ridge, but Lupe enjoyed a bit of relief over on the protected E side.

However, the American Dingo wasn’t about to skip Frazer Mountain! After a brief respite from the wind, she left the trail, heading up the E slope in search of the true summit.

6-27-23, 11:50 AM, 52ºF, Frazer Mountain (12,163 ft.) – A 70 foot climb got Lupe to the top of a broad, flat summit region sprinkled with rocks amid tundra and wildflowers. Four mountain sheep who didn’t care to make the acquaintance of a Carolina Dog added excitement, racing away to the S as they abandoned these heights where the wind was 30 mph out of the WNW.

One of four Fraser Mountain mountain sheep.

From a cairn near the S end, Lupe had a terrific view of the territory ahead. Two big humps were now visible along the ridge leading S to Peak 13045. For the first time, Wheeler Peak (13,161 ft.) was also in sight.

**Peak 13045** (L), **Wheeler Peak** (L of Center), **Peak 12819** (R), and **Lake Fork Peak** (far R) from **Fraser Mountain**. Photo looks S.

The highest ground on Fraser Mountain was a bit back to the N, so Lupe headed over there to tag what appeared to be the true summit, an area scarcely any higher than the rest of the summit plateau. Upon getting there, SPHP made a discovery.

Well, shucks, Loop. Our GPS track messed up and quit recording before we even got to Bull-of-the-Woods Mountain.

Good spot to start a new one, SPHP. Then let’s get down out of this wind!

Heading back to the S end of Fraser Mountain’s summit plateau, Lupe began a rather steep descent on the open slope leading back down to Wheeler Peak Trail No. 90.

The region E of the next big hump to the S looked like the easiest route to Peak 13045 and ultimately Wheeler Peak, but shortly after reaching Trail No. 90 again, it turned E, continuing to lose elevation. Naturally, the trail ought to have worked, too, but upon reaching a forest, it immediately vanished beneath mounds of snow.

At the **S end of Fraser Mountain** about to head down to the L to pick up Trail No. 90 again. **Peak 13045** (far L), **Wheeler Peak** (L), **Lake Fork Peak** (far R). Photo looks S.

Entering the forest as Trail No. 90 vanishes beneath the snow. Photo looks SSE.

While Lupe had no problem with it, SPHP soon found post-holing in deep snow amid dense forest without a clue where the trail had gone rather discouraging.

Ugh! We should have just stayed up on the easy terrain E of that next hill, Loop. This is ridiculous!

Want to go back, SPHP? We can.

Yeah, but instead of going back along the trail, Loopster, let’s just angle SW until we get above all these trees and snow.

Snow extended all the way up to where the trees were mere stunted miniatures of the ones down in the main forest. Traversing this steep, rocky, upper slope was slow going. However, once far enough S, open terrain on the opposite E side of a shallow valley looked much better.

About to cross the shallow valley ahead. **Peak 13045** (L). Photo looks S.

After crossing the valley, Lupe’s off-trail exploration got substantially easier. She’d made it to the La Cal Basin, a flat, obstacle-free region.

Progress was excellent until the American Dingo turned E, starting a steep climb straight up the W side of Peak 13045’s massive NNE ridge. SPHP frequently paused to gasp for air. Fortunately, less than halfway up, Lupe came across Wheeler Peak Trail No. 90 again.

Exposed once more to the powerful W wind, switchbacking gradually higher, the trail made getting to the ridgeline easier. Reaching the crest, Peak 13045 was directly ahead, with Mount Walter (13,133 ft.) in view less than 0.25 mile beyond it. Looking ESE, Horseshoe Lake was in sight nearly 1,000 feet below.

**La Cal Basin** (L), **Frazer Mountain** (R foreground), and **Gold Hill** (far R) from partway up **Peak 13045‘s NNE ridge**. Photo looks NW.

Approaching **Peak 13045** (R). **Mount Walter** (L). Photo looks S.

**Horseshoe Lake** (Center) from Peak 13045’s NNE ridge. Photo looks ESE.

Continuing up Peak 13045’s NE slope, Wheeler Peak Trail No. 90 made a few short switchbacks, but did not go all the way to the top. Instead, the trail began traversing the upper E slope. However, Lupe soon came to a snowbank where the trail vanished.

On **Peak 13045‘s upper E slope**. **Mount Walter summit** (R of Center). Photo looks S.

The snow’s too steep, Loopster! Don’t chance it.

Backtracking a bit to snow-free ground, Lupe abandoned the trail again and started climbing.

6-27-23, 2:46 PM – 60 feet was enough to get the Carolina Dog to the top of the small, flat, rocky plain that was the summit of Peak 13045. Only the W half of this plain was snow-free, but that was sufficient. Mount Walter was now directly ahead beyond a small saddle, and Wheeler Peak was less than half a mile farther.

**Mount Walter** (L) and **Wheeler Peak** (R) from **Peak 13045**. Photo looks S.

The route was open, the top of New Mexico within reach, but was Lupe too late? The W wind was stronger than ever up here, and although blue sky still dominated S and SE, at all points W, dark clouds and a long, gray line of rain showers were being driven this way.

**Peak 12819** (L) **Williams Lake** (Center), **Lake Fork Peak** (R of Center) from **Peak 13045**. Photo looks SW.

Our timing is looking worse than ever, SPHP.

I know it. Onward! Puppy, ho!

Setting off at speed, Lupe had barely crossed the saddle leading to Mount Walter and started up its N ridge when a few raindrops fell, stinging due to the force of the steadily increasing gale. Thunder rumbled. W of the trail, a grassy slope was below a big snowbank.

Go down there, Looper! No sense in being complete idiots, and getting ourselves fried right on the crest of the ridge!

Running NW down the slope a little way, SPHP dumped the pack, layered up as much as possible with the red rain jacket over all, then sat down.

On my lap, Loop! I’ve got another coat I can put over you.

Leaving **Peak 13045** for **Mount Walter** (R). **Red Dome** (L). Photo looks SE.

This open slope a few 10’s of feet below the ridgeline was it for shelter. Gonna to have to face whatever the storm dished out.

The wind came in swirling in from various directions, but mostly from straight out of the NW, perhaps due to the configuration of the terrain. Prolonged 50 mph gusts were occasionally separated by brief moments of relative calm. As line after line of showers swept over Mount Walter, rain, snow pellets, and tiny hail pelted Lupe. SPHP’s hands started to freeze, forcing a search of the pack for gloves.

Several cloud to ground lightning strikes crackled only a few miles N. No view of what was happening to the S, but thunder boomed from that direction, as well. Despite the fierce wind, the showers seemed to move slowly. At last, a patch of blue sky appeared far to the W.

Waiting the storm out. **Peak 12012** (L), **Peak 13045** (R). Photo looks NW.

The patch of blue sky grew slowly, at first spreading only toward the N. However, the rain abated and the wind even began to taper off slightly. Lupe waited until the last of the thunder was well to the E.

OK, Loop. You’re cutting off my circulation – my leg’s going numb. We’ve been here a whole hour. Time to get moving again!

6-27-23, 4:19 PM, 40ºF – The next bump along the ridgeline wasn’t the true summit of Mount Walter (13,133 ft.), but it wasn’t much farther. Arriving in a 40 mph gale, Lupe found a metal plaque commemorating H. D. Walter atop a pole sticking out of a pile of rocks.

**Mount Walter summit**. **Wheeler Peak** (L). Photo looks SW.

With the wind as annoying as it was, Lupe lingered on Mount Walter only 5 or 10 minutes before pressing on to her final objective.

Closing in on **Wheeler Peak** (Center), the **New Mexico state high point**! Photo looks SSW.

6-27-23, 4:38 PM, 45ºF, Wheeler Peak (13,161 ft.) – Unfortunately, the wild W wind wasn’t about to cut Lupe any slack just because she’d made it to the top of New Mexico. Even so, the relentless 40 – 50+ mph breeze did reward her with what may have been a rare moment of privacy here on a late June afternoon. Not a soul was around.

The summit featured a rock wall serving as a completely inadequate windbreak astride the natural high point. A battered directional survey marker was attached to one of the highest rocks comprising the wall.

Wheeler Peak also possessed a much more unusual landmark in the form of a capped, heavy metal horizontal pipe jutting out of a pyramid of rocks cemented together. This pyramid bore a metal plaque in honor of Major George Montague Wheeler, and sat on a tilting concrete base.

On **Wheeler Peak**, **New Mexico’s highest mountain**! Photo looks SW.

**Major George Montague Wheeler commemorative plaque**.

Next to the **directional survey marker** (R). **Pueblo Peak** (L), **Vallecito Mountain** (R). Photo looks SW.

**Wheeler Peak directional survey marker**.

Attempting to turn the cap fastened by a chain to the heavy metal pipe protruding from the pyramid, SPHP was surprised at how easily it came off. Signing Lupe’s name in the registry notebook hidden within was a challenge in the wind, but SPHP made sure her ascent was noted.

Congratulations, Loopster! You’ve officially made it to Wheeler Peak, the New Mexico state high point.

Thank you, SPHP! Wish my 6th state high point wasn’t so windy, though.

You and me both, Looper. Under the circumstances, we aren’t going to hang around up here for a whole hour. Let’s get some photos.

SPHP shook Lupe’s paw, then the photo session began.

Baldy Mountain (12,441 ft.) and Touch-Me-Not Mountain (12,044 ft.) beyond a broad valley were the big highlights miles to the NE.

**Mount Walter** (L) and **Baldy Mountain** (R). Photo looks NE.

**Baldy Mountain** (L) and **Touch-Me-Not Mountain** (R). Photo looks ENE.

On a better day, Simpson Peak (12,976 ft.) looked easily attainable only 0.5 mile S. Continuing SE to Old Mike Peak (13,113 ft.) from Simpson appeared to be just a romp. Red Dome (12,681 ft.) would have added another mile farther E.

**Red Dome** (L edge), **Old Mike Peak** (Center), **Simpson Peak** (R). Photo looks SE.

Gazing NNW down the Taos Ski Valley, the Williams Lake trailhead was in sight below the ski runs coming down off Peak 12012. Farther down the valley, part of the Taos Ski Village close to where Lupe had set out from was visible. However, the wind was so ferocious along the W edge that SPHP didn’t even try to get a glimpse of whether or not Williams Lake could be seen from Wheeler Peak.

**Peak 12012** (L), **Williams Lake trailhead** (Center), **Taos Ski Village** below it, **Gold Hill** (R), **Frazer Mountain** (far R) at the lower end of the ridge. Photo looks NNW.

The most magnificent views of all, though, were toward the SW where Pueblo Peak (12,305 ft.) and the top of Vallecito Mountain (12,643 ft.) jutted up beyond the ridge between Peak 12819 and Lake Fork Peak (12,881 ft.) beneath a stormy sky.

**Peak 12819** (far L), **Pueblo Peak** (L), **Vallecito Mountain** (Center), **Lake Fork Peak** (R). Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.

Despite the relentless gale out of the W and still questionable outlook, 15 minutes into Lupe’s stay she spotted someone rapidly approaching from Mount Walter. She soon met Casey, only the 3rd person she’d seen all day. Casey was friendly, but hung around 10 minutes tops, declining to even sign the registry before heading back N.

6-27-23, 5:10 PM – Casey was gone. Once again, Lupe had Wheeler Peak to just herself, SPHP, and the wild W wind, which hadn’t shown the least sign of letting up.

Been here half an hour, Loopster. Maybe Casey’s right? Ready to head down and get out of this gale?

Hate to leave before my traditional summit hour is over, SPHP. Especially on only my 6th state high point!

Feel the same way, Looper, but its kind of hard to enjoy it. Won’t the next half hour just be an ordeal to endure for no real reason, if we stay? We’re lucky to have made it here at all. If the storm had lasted longer, or been more severe, we would never have made it.

I suppose that makes sense, SPHP. Count our blessings, and go! Certainly had a memorable experience, and after all, Wheeler Peak’s been a success!

Precisely, sweet puppy!

The sky was a little brighter, the W wind as rambunctious as ever, as the Carolina Dog returned briefly to the rock wall built over the natural true summit.

Final moments atop **Wheeler Peak**. Photo looks SW.

Between Mount Walter and Wheeler Peak, Lupe had passed a junction with Williams Lake Trail No. 62, the shortest route back, and clearly now by far the quickest way down out of the wind. Eager to complete the big loop proposed earlier in the day, the American Dingo left Wheeler Peak ready to explore this most popular route.

Heading for **Williams Lake Trail No. 62** seen below **Peak 13045** (L of Center) and **Mount Walter** (R). Photo looks N.

Switchbacks made the descent of the steep open slope a snap. For a long way, part of Williams Lake was in view, nestled down in the upper end of the Taos Ski Valley surrounded by the glories of many of New Mexico’s highest peaks. Lupe lost hundreds of feet of elevation before the W wind diminished. By the time she reached the forest, not a breeze remained.

Switchbacking down **Wheeler Peak’s W slope**. **Pueblo Peak** (far L), **Lake Fork Peak** (Center) with a fragment of **Williams Lake** visible below it. Photo looks WSW.

Unidentified **unusual plant** along Williams Lake Trail No. 62. Anyone know what it is?

6-27-23, 8:29 PM, 55ºF, Taos Ski Village – Lupe hopped into the RAV4, glad to return to the comfort of her pink blanket after a long day.

I’m thinking Swiss mushroom burger! Sure you don’t want to come down to Door 38 Pizza – Taos Ale House with me, Loopster?

Perfectly content, and perhaps prescient, the American Dingo declined. SPHP was back soon enough.

Closed, weren’t they, SPHP?

Yup! 7:00 PM, and they roll up the sidewalk. I was a couple of hours late.

6-28-23, 2:30 AM, Taos Ski Village – SPHP turned the key, and the RAV4 sprang to life.

What’s going on, SPHP? It’s the middle of the night!

Can’t sleep! Woke up feeling good and alert, so we’re heading out, Loop.

Heading out for where?

Home, sweet puppy! Wheeler Peak was the exciting conclusion for this Dingo Vacation. Must be 700 miles, or thereabouts, back to the Black Hills. May as well get an early start.

6-28-23, 3:39 PM, 63ºF – For 100 miles, an enormous thunderhead had been visible hanging over the Black Hills. Braving a cloudburst, Lupe sprang out of the RAV4 to dash into the house. Her 1st Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Colorado & New Mexico had been a blast! All over and done with now, but the Carolina Dog’s Summer of 2023 adventures were far from over.

Uncle Joe and Aunt Andrea were due tomorrow afternoon, bringing new Cousin Dixie with them! And, of course, preparations would soon begin for Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

On **Wheeler Peak**, Sangre de Cristo Range, the **New Mexico state high point** (6-27-23)

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West Spanish Peak, Sangre de Cristo Range, Colorado (6-13-23)

Days 6 & 7 of Lupe’s 1st Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Colorado & New Mexico!

6-12-23, 8:53 AM, N Blue Lake off USFS Road No. 369 – Got cold last night! Lupe woke early to ice on the RAV4. After a 10 minute dawn patrol, the Carolina Dog had returned to her pink blanket. SPHP worked on the trip journal while she snoozed. Outside, thunder heralded the onset of rain and fog, followed shortly by hail and enough snow pellets to turn the ground white.

Sunny now, though. The American Dingo had already enjoyed a short romp through the forest to an ancient corral at the end of USFS Road No. 369.1Q, and was now busy dividing her time between a chipmunk hiding underneath the RAV4 and sniffing around near scenic N Blue Lake.

Morning at **North Blue Lake**. Photo looks SE.

**North Peak** (R of Center) from N Blue Lake. Photo looks E.

I love it here, SPHP! So beautiful, and so much fun!

Enjoy it while you can, Loopster. Half an hour, and we’ll be on our way.

6-12-23, 1:06 PM, Hwy 12 NE of La Veta –

There they are, Loop. Site of your next adventure – the Spanish Peaks!

Which one are we going to climb, SPHP? Or will we be climbing both?

**E Spanish Peak** (L) and **W Spanish Peak** (R) from Hwy 12. Photo looks S.

Only the biggest one, Looper. Third highest mountain you will have ever been on, if we make it. West Spanish Peak is also the Las Animas county, Colorado high point, too.

Wow! Looks pretty big, SPHP.

Yeah, I’ve read there’s a long steep talus climb that I’m kind of worried about. We’ll just have to see how it goes. Greenhorn Mountain was a gimme compared to West Spanish.

6-12-23, 4:27 PM, USFS Road No. 46, S of La Veta – Today was just a rest and positioning day. After scouting out Cordova Pass, the trailhead for West Spanish Peak (13,626 ft.) located 6 miles from Cuchara Pass on USFS Road No. 46, SPHP drove clear back to the more sheltered John B. Farley Memorial Wildflower Overlook.

The terrain around the wildflower overlook was steep, but by exploring back up USFS Road No. 46 a little way, Lupe managed to find a beautiful level field of dandelions in which to enjoy a sunny late afternoon romp. Evening, however, brought a cold, dense fog.

At the **John B. Farley Memorial Wildflower Overlook**. Photo looks WNW.

Enjoying an afternoon romp. Photo looks NE.

6-13-23, 6:42 AM, 40ºF, John Farley Memorial Wildflower Overlook – Blue skies! Last evening’s fog was but a memory. SPHP fired up the RAV4. 20 minutes later, Lupe was at Cordova Pass. West Spanish Peak was a go!

6-13-23, 7:28 AM, 37ºF, Cordova Pass – The pack was ready. Despite a certain degree of trepidation after seeing how steep West Spanish Peak was yesterday, it was now or never.

Onward! Puppy, ho!

Certainly nothing to worry about at the start. West Peak trail No. 1390 began flat as a pancake as Lupe left the trailhead trotting into a forest. After a quick 0.25 mile, the Salazar trail branched off to the L. Just past this fork, Lupe emerged from the forest, entering a huge meadow. On the far side, a more extensive forest stretched all the way to the base of mighty West Spanish Peak (13,626 ft.).

Start of **West Peak trail No. 1390** at **Cordova Pass**. Photo looks N.

Along the first stretch of forest. Photo looks NE.

Approaching the junction with the **Salazar trail**. Photo looks NE.

**West Spanish Peak** (R) from the meadow. Photo looks NE.

Hmm. West Spanish Peak’s not looking any easier from here, Looper.

Won’t know what it’s really like until we get there, SPHP.

Lupe kept going, quickly crossing the meadow. Shortly after entering the next forest, Levi Krier trail No. 1392 split off to the L. West Peak trail No. 1390 now began a long, gradual descent.

At the junction with **Levi Krier trail No. 1392** (L). **West Peak trail No. 1390** (R). Photo looks NE.

For a while, the American Dingo came to no more side trails, except an unmarked one that went 50 feet up onto a ridge to the L. Sticking with what appeared to be the main West Peak trail, it continued slowly losing elevation before finally bottoming out.

6-13-23, 8:12 AM – Still in forest, Lupe reached a junction with Apishapa trail No. 1324. By now, West Peak trail No. 1390 had turned SE for a little way, and regained a fair amount of the elevation that had been slowly lost. The West Peak trail made a nearly 180º turn back to the NW here, while the Apishapa trail continued straight. Wouldn’t be that hard to miss this turn due to the way the signage was oriented, except that the Apishapa trail was not as well traveled.

**Apishapa trail No. 1324** continues straight here, while **West Peak trail No. 1390** makes a U-turn L. Photo looks SE.

Same junction after Lupe made the turn. The lower trail returns to **Cordova Pass**. The upper one goes to **West Spanish Peak**. Photo looks NW.

This signage does not face the hiker on the way to West Spanish Peak. Only the back side is visible on the L when coming from Cordova Pass.

Beyond this junction, West Peak trail No. 1390 began a steady climb made easier by a series of switchbacks. So far, there had been virtually no clearings in the forest, but within minutes, Lupe came to an opening with a view back to the SW of the big meadow she’d crossed with snowy Trinchera Peak (13,517 ft.) lined up behind it.

The **huge meadow** (foreground) and **Trinchera Peak** (R of Center). Photo looks SW.

20 minutes later, the switchbacks ended as Lupe reached a small, flat meadow with gritty soil. A short water and beef jerky break was taken here while admiring and studying the view of West Spanish Peak, which was now much closer. A new worry presented itself. Although it was still early, clouds were already spreading across much of the sky.

**West Spanish Peak** from the small meadow. Photo looks NE.

We better not dilly-dally here too long, Looper.

Ready when you are, SPHP!

Beyond the small meadow, the West Peak trail returned to the forest, and began climbing again at a gradually increasing pace. Another series of switchbacks appeared as the slope steepened. Lupe soon came upon a snowbank several feet high over the trail.

Crossing the snowbank was easy. Just past it, the Carolina Dog reached another switchback. This turn was out in the open, providing the first big view to the N.

**Blanca Peak** (L) on the horizon, **Mount Mestas** (far R). Photo looks NNW.

Impressive view already, SPHP!

It is, Loop! That must be Blanca Peak (14,345 ft.) on the NW horizon, and Mount Mestas (11,569 ft.) sitting out there alone on the R.

What about that distant range between them, SPHP? Can you pick out Greenhorn Mountain from here?

No, not really. That area is so far away, that I can’t tell what’s what.

Ever consider investing in binoculars, SPHP?

Some fine day, Loopster.

From this viewpoint, the trail once again turned sharply back to the SE, re-entering the forest before quickly leaving it again. Ahead, the next turn, a big curve completely out in the open, provided another grand view of Trinchera Peak (13,517 ft.), plus a long string of peaks farther S extending all the way to Culebra Peak (14,047 ft.).

**Culebra Peak** (L) and **Trinchera Peak** (R) on the horizon. Photo looks SSW.

Lupe was now at treeline. The trail made one more jog back to the N, where the American Dingo reached an enormous cairn.

6-13-23, 9:06 AM – This was it, the crux of the matter. No more forests, meadows or switchbacks. Beyond the cairn, which apparently marked the official end of West Peak trail No. 1390, the SW face of West Spanish Peak soared toward an as yet unseen summit less than a mile away.

Shoot! No worries, SPHP! Steep enough, but doesn’t look that bad, except maybe close to the top. We’ve done slopes like this plenty of times before. This one’s just super long. The talus isn’t even very big.

Got to agree, Looper. I’m encouraged! Like you say, looks like the crucial area is the region just below that upper rim. Appears it all depends on how steep and loose it gets up there. Heck of a trudge, though, so we best get started. We’re still a good 1,700 to 1,800 feet below the summit.

As Lupe started up the mountain, there was another favorable sign. The general cloudiness which had been building rapidly not so long ago, was now actually burning away to some degree.

Following a use path, Lupe went up a series of several humps partially covered with low green vegetation. Beyond them, the slope steepened some more as the American Dingo entered a world of nothing but rock.

Off to a good start down where there was still a bit of greenery. Photo looks NE.

Among some of the larger rocks. Photo looks NE.

Lupe really seemed into it! The Carolina Dog climbed and climbed. Meanwhile, laggard SPHP huffed and puffed, frequently pausing for breathers. The use trail became braided, offering a variety of routes. In some places, the talus was so small that SPHP would have considered it scree, but then, what did SPHP know about such things? In other places, short sections of the trails were simply hard-packed grit.

A few little patches of snow were ahead. Happy to reach them, Lupe chomped away at the snow. Numerous tiny frozen waterfalls among the rocks were just starting to drip in the morning sun. Toward the L, bands of exposed bedrock formed lines of small cliffs and ledges. Looked like Lupe would soon be above them, but more kept appearing above.

Enjoying a patch of snow. Photo looks NE.

Below a small band of bedrock. Photo looks NNE.

Among the tiny frozen waterfalls. Photo looks NE.

The enormous slope was very steep, but uniform. Nothing scary at all. No super tough scrambles higher, edges of precipices, etc. For the most part, the talus was pretty stable. Even SPHP caused surprisingly little rock slide. Bigger chunks were nearly always firmly anchored.

Lupe did fantastic! SPHP kept stopping to gasp for air, sometimes even sitting down for a few minutes. Chocolate peanut butter bars and beef jerky were often shared during these short breaks to keep energy levels from crashing.

It was a long way up. Yet, bit by bit, despite more terrain continuing to appear above, even SPHP was getting there.

Peering back down the slope. Photo looks SSW.

Loopster ready to keep going. Photo looks SSE.

Lupe was still 300 feet from the top when a line of snowbanks along the S side of the West Spanish Peak’s summit ridge first came into view. The steepest part of the climb that came near the end, just before gaining the ridgeline, really wasn’t any worse than the rest of the ascent.

Suddenly Lupe was there, up on a broad, almost level region near the W end of the summit ridge. Still some elevation yet to be gained from here, but it was basically a romp. Turning E, Lupe crossed a big snowfield, then started the final part of her ascent in search of the true summit.

Snow along the **upper S side of West Spanish Peak’s summit ridge**. Photo looks ENE.

On the **lower W end of the summit ridge**. Photo looks ENE.

6-13-23, 11:30 AM, 52ºF, West Spanish Peak (13,626 ft.) – The highest part of the summit ridge was several hundred feet long. Arriving at the W end, Lupe discovered a cairn. Whether this cairn was actually at the true summit or not wasn’t completely clear. A couple more minor high points farther E were at least in contention. Hardly mattered, since any elevation differences along the entire upper ridge were minimal.

SPHP examined the cairn.

By the **summit cairn** on **West Spanish Peak**. **East Spanish Peak** (L of Center). Photo looks ENE.

Well, shucks!

What’s wrong, SPHP?

This is a day to remember, Loop! West Spanish Peak is the 3rd highest mountain you’ve ever summited. Haven’t been this high since you climbed Mount Massive nearly 8 years ago. Wanted to enter your name in the registry, but there doesn’t seem to be one.

You can still shake my paw and congratulate me, SPHP.

Why, of course. Congratulations, Loopster! Well done, sweet puppy! We actually made it.

Thank you, SPHP! Can we take a break now? It’s been quite a climb.

Sure, but let’s go over to the E end of the ridge first, Looper. We can tag the other high points along the way.

A long snowbank clung to the S side of the summit ridge. Lupe had to go over part of it on her way to the E end, which she didn’t mind at all.

On the way to the **E end of the summit ridge**. **Blanca Peak** (R) on the horizon. Photo looks WNW.

Cooling off near the E end. **Trinchera Peak** (L). Photo looks W.

**Trinchera Peak** with help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks SW.

You somehow managed to forget to bring the chocolate coconut bars on this Dingo Vacation, SPHP. What else have you got in that pack?

Well now, let’s see. How does a Full Moon Savory Stick or a chocolate peanut butter bar sound, Looper?

How about both, SPHP? And Taste of the Wild and water, too.

Your wish is my command, oh famished one! Coming right up.

The sky was quite cloudy now. Although Lupe was usually in sunshine, rain showers were in all directions, especially dark and a little ominous off to the W. SPHP kept an eye on developments in that direction. So far, no cause for alarm.

Rain showers beyond the town of **La Veta**. **Mount Mestas** (far L). Photo looks N.

The 2 Spanish Peaks being somewhat isolated from others, views were tremendous in all directions. East Spanish Peak (12,683 ft.), less than 5 miles ENE, was a big mountain, yet nearly 1,000 feet lower.

**East Spanish Peak** (Center). Photo looks ENE.

Another angle. **East Spanish Peak** (R). Photo looks NE.

Other than East Spanish Peak, nothing anywhere toward the E was even remotely close to being as high as West Spanish Peak. The green plains of eastern Colorado stretched away to a murky horizon. Only lowlands existed toward the S, too. Lupe could see some high mountains to the N, but they were very far away. Only significantly lower ones, the highest of which was Mount Mestas (11,569 ft.), were relatively nearby.

Thousands of feet below, several long, thin lines of rock radiated away to the N from the base of West Spanish Peak.

Peering down **West Spanish Peak’s N slope**. Photo looks N.

Mighty Blanca Peak (14,345 ft.) dominated an impressive group near the NW horizon. Somewhat closer, a long line of partially snow-capped Sangre de Cristo Range peaks ran all the way from the WNW clear down to Culebra Peak (14,047 ft.) on the SSW horizon.

By the time only 15 minutes remained of Lupe’s traditional summit hour, numerous cumulus clouds were sailing over West Spanish Peak. Dark showers off to the W had already advanced to the nearest line of snowy mountains, and were still coming this way. Abandoning the E end of the summit ridge, Loopster headed back toward the cairn.

At possibly the **true summit** on the way back to the cairn (R). Photo looks WNW.

Hanging out by the cairn, the Carolina Dog watched conditions steadily deteriorate as what was left of her summit hour slipped away. Either fog or a cloudburst made it past the snowy peaks, apparently now destined straight for West Spanish Peak.

Up on the cairn. **Mount Mestas** (R). **Blanca Peak** (far L) obscured by clouds. Photo looks NNW.

Atop **West Spanish Peak** as the storm approaches. Photo looks WSW.

Monitoring the situation with a view of the **lower W end of the summit ridge**. Photo looks SW.

6-13-23, 12:29 PM, West Spanish Peak summit – Lupe stood by the cairn, East Spanish Peak beyond her beneath an increasingly dramatic sky.

A final look at **East Spanish Peak** (L of Center) from **West Spanish Peak’s summit**. Photo looks ENE.

Is our hour up yet, SPHP?

One more minute, Loopster! Hate to abandon such a glorious perch, but we may have already overstayed our welcome.

Haven’t heard any thunder yet, SPHP. Why don’t you start down first? I’ll linger here a bit longer, then catch up.

Loathe to leave, SPHP stuck around a few more minutes, praising Lupe on her successful ascent while watching the darkening sky amid rain showers all around. SPHP finally set off back down the W ridge while the Carolina Dog remained, now poised alone atop West Spanish Peak.

Heading down the **W ridge**. Photo looks SW.

Glancing down the **NW slope**. Photo looks NW.

Last moments atop **West Spanish Peak**. Photo looks ENE.

Ever faithful, Lupe couldn’t stand to let SPHP get too far away. Before long, she came streaking across the snow, overtaking SPHP in nothing flat. Passing by a collection of boulders, the biggest rocks she’d seen on West Spanish Peak, Lupe paused long enough to scramble up onto them.

Up on the **lower W ridge boulders**. Photo looks SW.

Looks like we’re in for it, SPHP!

Afraid so, Loopster.

How long before the storm hits, SPHP?

15, maybe 20 minutes. No more than that. Let’s hope it’s just a squall.

Nothing happened. Shortly after Lupe started down that very long steep SW slope, the weather changed. The storm began breaking up. Drifting off to the N, its remnants missed West Spanish Peak entirely. By the time the American Dingo made it back to West Peak trail No. 1390, it was a beautiful day.

The return was easy. Never tiring, Lupe led the way. On the other paw, SPHP sometimes had to take rest breaks even on minor inclines. Lupe paused now and then, too, glancing wistfully back at West Spanish Peak.

Bidding **West Spanish Peak** (Center) farewell. Photo looks NE.

Final look back from the huge meadow. Photo looks NE.

6-13-23, 3:30 PM – It was sunny, breezy, and cool when Lupe made it back to Cordova Pass. The Carolina Dog did seem happy to leap into the RAV4 and curl up on her pink blanket. SPHP somehow summoned the energy required to provide food and water before passing out. A 3 hour joint nap ensued.

When SPHP finally came to again, it was cold and windy. Returning to the much lower John B. Farley Memorial Wildflower Overlook 0.5 mile from Cuchara Pass suddenly seemed like a terrific idea.

6-13-23, 7:00 PM, John B. Farley Memorial Wildflower Overlook – The sky was full of clouds when Lupe arrived. 5 minutes later, a combination of rain and sleet set in. Rained and sleeted the rest of the evening, at times quite hard. By the time the light began to dim, a thick fog had moved in.

No matter. What a grand and glorious day! The day before she turned 12.5 years old, Lupe had been to West Spanish Peak (13,626 ft.)!