Days 20 – 22 of Lupe’s 1st Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Colorado & New Mexico!
6-26-23, 12:43 PM, Taos Ski Village – On the deck overlooking a rushing stream, SPHP sipped on a cherry sour.
Mushroom Swiss burger, Loop! Sure you don’t want a bite? Very tasty!
Lupe sat in the shade, content to merely watch SPHP eat while enjoying the sound of the water. The Carolina Dog could have gone into Door 38 Pizza – Taos Ale House; it was a dog friendly establishment, but SPHP was so filthy that avoiding the rest of the clientele as much as possible seemed prudent.
Not interested, aye? Your loss, Loopster! Guess I’ll polish off the whole burger then.
After a steep, dusty drive up a wide gravel road, Lupe spent the rest of the afternoon hanging out at the Williams Lake trailhead. 40+ vehicles were there when SPHP pulled the RAV4 into the last available parking spot, but the popular trailhead began emptying out as the day wore on.
By evening, the American Dingo had a change of heart. Back at Door 38 Pizza – Taos Ale House again, this time when SPHP ordered a second Swiss Mushroom burger plus french fries, Lupe was not only a willing participant, but eager to make up for her earlier abstinence.
6-27-23, 7:27 AM – The big paved parking lot at the entrance to the Taos Ski Village that had been jam packed yesterday was practically empty when Lupe leapt out of the RAV4.
We’re leaving from here, SPHP? What happened to the Williams Lake trailhead?
A nice guy named John at the little barn-like visitor center gave me a nifty trail system map yesterday, Loop. We can start from here, and make a huge loop coming back down that way. Longer and more elevation gain the way we’re going, but you can tag a few more peaks along the way, too.
As long as we still make it to Wheeler Peak (13,161 ft.), that’s fine, SPHP. Loops are awesome; I’m practically named after them! Don’t want to miss out on only my 6th state high point ever, though.
Eh, never any guarantees in the mountains, Loopster. You know that. The forecast is kind of iffy no matter which way we go. If the weather holds up, we’ll make it. Trail all the way!
So where do we go, SPHP?
The Bull-of-the-Woods trailhead is right here, Looper, a couple hundred feet from the visitor center. Onward! Puppy, ho!
Bound for the top of New Mexico, the Carolina Dog set out on Wheeler Peak Trail No. 90.
Entering the forest, the single track trail became broad and rather rocky. Climbing NE at a good clip, it paralleled an unseen stream hidden among the trees off to the R. After a 15 minute trek, Lupe came to a spot with a view of the stream, which was now quite close to the trail.
Pressing on, Trail No. 90 became less rocky, and sometimes leveled out. Another 20 minutes, during which glimpses of the stream continued to appear, got the American Dingo to a tributary coming down from Long Canyon. SPHP was happy to see a makeshift bridge of branches.
Hah! Don’t even have to get our paws wet, Looper!
It’s summer! Nothing wrong with cooling your paws off, SPHP.
Beyond the ford, Lupe reached a junction with Long Canyon Trail No. 63.
Sticking with Wheeler Peak Trail No. 90, the broad single track trail soon merged with an old roadbed. Despite the absence of any other obstacles, due to the steepness of the incline, SPHP had to keep pausing to gasp for air. With no views other than the forest, the road trek quickly became monotonous.
The rate of climb finally diminished as Lupe approached Bull-of-the-Woods Pasture.
Located in the saddle region between Gold Hill (12,711 ft.) 2.5 miles NW, and Bull-of-the-Woods Mountain (11,640 ft.) less than 0.75 mile S, Bull-of-the Woods Pasture was not at all what SPHP expected.
You thought there would be more grass, SPHP?
Yeah, guess it was the word “pasture” that threw me, Loop. Kind of thought we might be able to see something from up here, too.
Well, it does have the “woods” part down, SPHP.
I’ll grant you that, Looper.
Actually there was a clearing at Bull-of-the-Woods Pasture, it just wasn’t as extensive as SPHP had envisioned. Furthermore, although Gold Hill wasn’t in sight, the forested N side of Bull-of-the-Woods Mountain was.
Gold Hill Trail No. 64 branched off to the L here. Taking Wheeler Peak Trail No. 90 instead, it immediately curled SE, crossing a creek issuing from a small pond. The dirt road ahead looked new, and the sound of machinery came from this direction. Following this road, a single track trail soon branched off to the R as a light rain began to fall.
A sign said “Redi’s Run”.
Redi’s Run? Hang on, Loop, let’s get off the road. Not sure which way we need to go here.
Putting on the red rain jacket as it began raining harder, SPHP then checked the maps.
Hmm. No Redi’s Run mentioned on any of these maps, not even the one from the visitor center.
Maybe Redi is the name of the Bull-of-the-Woods, SPHP? He might come running through here at any moment!
Hope not. Didn’t bring any red capes to dodge him with.
Use your rain jacket, SPHP. It’s red!
Wasn’t necessary. An approaching roar proved to be a loaded logging truck coming down the road. A few minutes later, an empty truck backed up it.
Since Redi’s Run seemed destined to go downhill rather than up, once the empty logging truck disappeared from sight, Lupe followed it. She soon came to the place where it was being loaded.
Rather than charge through all the activity, SPHP encouraged Lupe to go around it. Upon regaining the road on Bull-of-the-Woods Mountain’s N ridge, the Carolina Dog enjoyed her first distant view of the day, a look at Baldy Mountain (12,441 ft.) beyond the Red River valley.
Despite cloudy skies, the sun reappeared. However, as Lupe continued along the freshly graded logging road around the upper W slopes of Bull-of-the-Woods Mountain, the sky darkened again.
Reaching the N end of Pass 11514, Wheeler Peak Trail No. 90 turned S as a single track, parting from the road, which veered N. Lupe took shelter beneath a spruce tree as it began to rain again.
Nothing too serious yet, but this might not be our day, Looper.
Don’t give up so easily, SPHP.
Oh, I’m not, Loopster! The top of Bull-of-the-Woods Mountain is real close, though, only 100 feet higher up the road. Won’t take us long. Want to tag the summit so you can claim at least one peakbagging success today no matter what else happens?
I’m all in, SPHP!
As soon as the rain abated, the American Dingo followed the road N.
The free trail system map from the visitor center didn’t mention it, but the topo maps showed mines on Bull-of-the-Woods Mountain. As Lupe approached the summit region, forest gave way to a ridge of loose rock that had clearly been disturbed. Going around the W end of this ridge, the Carolina Dog found a wide, almost level gash that had been carved across the mountain. Beyond the gap, a higher ridge looked natural.
6-27-23, 10:15 AM, 50ºF, Bull-of-the-Woods Mountain (11,640 ft.) – A short scramble to the top of this second ridge, and Lupe reached a pile of rocks evidently serving as a loosely assembled cairn. The Carolina Dog might have enjoyed the excellent view of Fraser Mountain (12,163 ft.), her next objective due S, but conditions were none too pleasant.
A 20-25 mph W wind swept over the barren, exposed summit driving a cold light rain.
Bull-of-the-Woods Mountain offered other views, too, notably Gold Hill (12,716 ft.) off to the NNW. However, a few minutes atop the wet, windy summit was enough. Lupe returned to the road and protection of the forest. By the time the American Dingo got back to where Wheeler Peak Trail No. 90 left the road near Pass 11514, the rain had ended.
Well, phooey! Sorry about that, Loop. Seems we tagged Bull-of-the-Woods Mountain at the worst possible moment.
Still counts as a peakbagging success, SPHP. Maybe we’ll be luckier at Fraser Mountain?
Continuing down to the saddle at Pass 11514, Lupe crossed it. Trail No. 90 switchbacked SW, then SE, climbing through thick forest. Reaching a clearing where the trail turned SW again, it provided a terrific view of Gold Hill and mining-scarred Bull-of-the-Woods Mountain back to the N.
From this viewpoint, Trail No. 90 headed straight for the closest of a long line of snowbanks on the E side of the enormous ridge leading to Frazer Mountain, promptly vanishing beneath the snow. Climbing up and over the first snowbank, Lupe found no sign of the trail beyond it. However, the general direction she needed to go was clear. Heading S across flat, open ground, the Carolina Dog made rapid progress.
Near the end of the flat part of the gently rounded ridge, Lupe picked up Wheeler Peak Trail No. 90 again, which gradually climbed S along the windy W side of the ridge. At treeline now, the views were awesome! Kachina Peak (12,481 ft.) and Lake Fork Peak (12,881 ft.) were both in sight on the opposite side of the Taos Ski Valley, still sporting some snow.
The trail went by the upper end of a forested section, then remained out on open ground as it went clear to the top of Frazer Mountain’s N ridge. In addition to seeing all the gorgeous peaks towering over the upper end of the Taos Ski Valley, Lupe got to sniff some stunning wildflowers along the way.
Wheeler Peak Trail No. 90 reached the top of the ridge only 0.1 mile N of Frazer Mountain, but did not go up to the summit, instead swinging over to the E side of the ridge. The W wind was especially powerful on top of the ridge, but Lupe enjoyed a bit of relief over on the protected E side.
However, the American Dingo wasn’t about to skip Frazer Mountain! After a brief respite from the wind, she left the trail, heading up the E slope in search of the true summit.
6-27-23, 11:50 AM, 52ºF, Frazer Mountain (12,163 ft.) – A 70 foot climb got Lupe to the top of a broad, flat summit region sprinkled with rocks amid tundra and wildflowers. Four mountain sheep who didn’t care to make the acquaintance of a Carolina Dog added excitement, racing away to the S as they abandoned these heights where the wind was 30 mph out of the WNW.
From a cairn near the S end, Lupe had a terrific view of the territory ahead. Two big humps were now visible along the ridge leading S to Peak 13045. For the first time, Wheeler Peak (13,161 ft.) was also in sight.
The highest ground on Fraser Mountain was a bit back to the N, so Lupe headed over there to tag what appeared to be the true summit, an area scarcely any higher than the rest of the summit plateau. Upon getting there, SPHP made a discovery.
Well, shucks, Loop. Our GPS track messed up and quit recording before we even got to Bull-of-the-Woods Mountain.
Good spot to start a new one, SPHP. Then let’s get down out of this wind!
Heading back to the S end of Fraser Mountain’s summit plateau, Lupe began a rather steep descent on the open slope leading back down to Wheeler Peak Trail No. 90.
The region E of the next big hump to the S looked like the easiest route to Peak 13045 and ultimately Wheeler Peak, but shortly after reaching Trail No. 90 again, it turned E, continuing to lose elevation. Naturally, the trail ought to have worked, too, but upon reaching a forest, it immediately vanished beneath mounds of snow.
While Lupe had no problem with it, SPHP soon found post-holing in deep snow amid dense forest without a clue where the trail had gone rather discouraging.
Ugh! We should have just stayed up on the easy terrain E of that next hill, Loop. This is ridiculous!
Want to go back, SPHP? We can.
Yeah, but instead of going back along the trail, Loopster, let’s just angle SW until we get above all these trees and snow.
Snow extended all the way up to where the trees were mere stunted miniatures of the ones down in the main forest. Traversing this steep, rocky, upper slope was slow going. However, once far enough S, open terrain on the opposite E side of a shallow valley looked much better.
After crossing the valley, Lupe’s off-trail exploration got substantially easier. She’d made it to the La Cal Basin, a flat, obstacle-free region.
Progress was excellent until the American Dingo turned E, starting a steep climb straight up the W side of Peak 13045’s massive NNE ridge. SPHP frequently paused to gasp for air. Fortunately, less than halfway up, Lupe came across Wheeler Peak Trail No. 90 again.
Exposed once more to the powerful W wind, switchbacking gradually higher, the trail made getting to the ridgeline easier. Reaching the crest, Peak 13045 was directly ahead, with Mount Walter (13,133 ft.) in view less than 0.25 mile beyond it. Looking ESE, Horseshoe Lake was in sight nearly 1,000 feet below.
Continuing up Peak 13045’s NE slope, Wheeler Peak Trail No. 90 made a few short switchbacks, but did not go all the way to the top. Instead, the trail began traversing the upper E slope. However, Lupe soon came to a snowbank where the trail vanished.
The snow’s too steep, Loopster! Don’t chance it.
Backtracking a bit to snow-free ground, Lupe abandoned the trail again and started climbing.
6-27-23, 2:46 PM – 60 feet was enough to get the Carolina Dog to the top of the small, flat, rocky plain that was the summit of Peak 13045. Only the W half of this plain was snow-free, but that was sufficient. Mount Walter was now directly ahead beyond a small saddle, and Wheeler Peak was less than half a mile farther.
The route was open, the top of New Mexico within reach, but was Lupe too late? The W wind was stronger than ever up here, and although blue sky still dominated S and SE, at all points W, dark clouds and a long, gray line of rain showers were being driven this way.
Our timing is looking worse than ever, SPHP.
I know it. Onward! Puppy, ho!
Setting off at speed, Lupe had barely crossed the saddle leading to Mount Walter and started up its N ridge when a few raindrops fell, stinging due to the force of the steadily increasing gale. Thunder rumbled. W of the trail, a grassy slope was below a big snowbank.
Go down there, Looper! No sense in being complete idiots, and getting ourselves fried right on the crest of the ridge!
Running NW down the slope a little way, SPHP dumped the pack, layered up as much as possible with the red rain jacket over all, then sat down.
On my lap, Loop! I’ve got another coat I can put over you.
This open slope a few 10’s of feet below the ridgeline was it for shelter. Gonna to have to face whatever the storm dished out.
The wind came in swirling in from various directions, but mostly from straight out of the NW, perhaps due to the configuration of the terrain. Prolonged 50 mph gusts were occasionally separated by brief moments of relative calm. As line after line of showers swept over Mount Walter, rain, snow pellets, and tiny hail pelted Lupe. SPHP’s hands started to freeze, forcing a search of the pack for gloves.
Several cloud to ground lightning strikes crackled only a few miles N. No view of what was happening to the S, but thunder boomed from that direction, as well. Despite the fierce wind, the showers seemed to move slowly. At last, a patch of blue sky appeared far to the W.
The patch of blue sky grew slowly, at first spreading only toward the N. However, the rain abated and the wind even began to taper off slightly. Lupe waited until the last of the thunder was well to the E.
OK, Loop. You’re cutting off my circulation – my leg’s going numb. We’ve been here a whole hour. Time to get moving again!
6-27-23, 4:19 PM, 40ºF – The next bump along the ridgeline wasn’t the true summit of Mount Walter (13,133 ft.), but it wasn’t much farther. Arriving in a 40 mph gale, Lupe found a metal plaque commemorating H. D. Walter atop a pole sticking out of a pile of rocks.
With the wind as annoying as it was, Lupe lingered on Mount Walter only 5 or 10 minutes before pressing on to her final objective.
6-27-23, 4:38 PM, 45ºF, Wheeler Peak (13,161 ft.) – Unfortunately, the wild W wind wasn’t about to cut Lupe any slack just because she’d made it to the top of New Mexico. Even so, the relentless 40 – 50+ mph breeze did reward her with what may have been a rare moment of privacy here on a late June afternoon. Not a soul was around.
The summit featured a rock wall serving as a completely inadequate windbreak astride the natural high point. A battered directional survey marker was attached to one of the highest rocks comprising the wall.
Wheeler Peak also possessed a much more unusual landmark in the form of a capped, heavy metal horizontal pipe jutting out of a pyramid of rocks cemented together. This pyramid bore a metal plaque in honor of Major George Montague Wheeler, and sat on a tilting concrete base.
Attempting to turn the cap fastened by a chain to the heavy metal pipe protruding from the pyramid, SPHP was surprised at how easily it came off. Signing Lupe’s name in the registry notebook hidden within was a challenge in the wind, but SPHP made sure her ascent was noted.
Congratulations, Loopster! You’ve officially made it to Wheeler Peak, the New Mexico state high point.
Thank you, SPHP! Wish my 6th state high point wasn’t so windy, though.
You and me both, Looper. Under the circumstances, we aren’t going to hang around up here for a whole hour. Let’s get some photos.
SPHP shook Lupe’s paw, then the photo session began.
Baldy Mountain (12,441 ft.) and Touch-Me-Not Mountain (12,044 ft.) beyond a broad valley were the big highlights miles to the NE.
On a better day, Simpson Peak (12,976 ft.) looked easily attainable only 0.5 mile S. Continuing SE to Old Mike Peak (13,113 ft.) from Simpson appeared to be just a romp. Red Dome (12,681 ft.) would have added another mile farther E.
Gazing NNW down the Taos Ski Valley, the Williams Lake trailhead was in sight below the ski runs coming down off Peak 12012. Farther down the valley, part of the Taos Ski Village close to where Lupe had set out from was visible. However, the wind was so ferocious along the W edge that SPHP didn’t even try to get a glimpse of whether or not Williams Lake could be seen from Wheeler Peak.
The most magnificent views of all, though, were toward the SW where Pueblo Peak (12,305 ft.) and the top of Vallecito Mountain (12,643 ft.) jutted up beyond the ridge between Peak 12819 and Lake Fork Peak (12,881 ft.) beneath a stormy sky.
Despite the relentless gale out of the W and still questionable outlook, 15 minutes into Lupe’s stay she spotted someone rapidly approaching from Mount Walter. She soon met Casey, only the 3rd person she’d seen all day. Casey was friendly, but hung around 10 minutes tops, declining to even sign the registry before heading back N.
6-27-23, 5:10 PM – Casey was gone. Once again, Lupe had Wheeler Peak to just herself, SPHP, and the wild W wind, which hadn’t shown the least sign of letting up.
Been here half an hour, Loopster. Maybe Casey’s right? Ready to head down and get out of this gale?
Hate to leave before my traditional summit hour is over, SPHP. Especially on only my 6th state high point!
Feel the same way, Looper, but its kind of hard to enjoy it. Won’t the next half hour just be an ordeal to endure for no real reason, if we stay? We’re lucky to have made it here at all. If the storm had lasted longer, or been more severe, we would never have made it.
I suppose that makes sense, SPHP. Count our blessings, and go! Certainly had a memorable experience, and after all, Wheeler Peak’s been a success!
Precisely, sweet puppy!
The sky was a little brighter, the W wind as rambunctious as ever, as the Carolina Dog returned briefly to the rock wall built over the natural true summit.
Between Mount Walter and Wheeler Peak, Lupe had passed a junction with Williams Lake Trail No. 62, the shortest route back, and clearly now by far the quickest way down out of the wind. Eager to complete the big loop proposed earlier in the day, the American Dingo left Wheeler Peak ready to explore this most popular route.
Switchbacks made the descent of the steep open slope a snap. For a long way, part of Williams Lake was in view, nestled down in the upper end of the Taos Ski Valley surrounded by the glories of many of New Mexico’s highest peaks. Lupe lost hundreds of feet of elevation before the W wind diminished. By the time she reached the forest, not a breeze remained.
6-27-23, 8:29 PM, 55ºF, Taos Ski Village – Lupe hopped into the RAV4, glad to return to the comfort of her pink blanket after a long day.
I’m thinking Swiss mushroom burger! Sure you don’t want to come down to Door 38 Pizza – Taos Ale House with me, Loopster?
Perfectly content, and perhaps prescient, the American Dingo declined. SPHP was back soon enough.
Closed, weren’t they, SPHP?
Yup! 7:00 PM, and they roll up the sidewalk. I was a couple of hours late.
6-28-23, 2:30 AM, Taos Ski Village – SPHP turned the key, and the RAV4 sprang to life.
What’s going on, SPHP? It’s the middle of the night!
Can’t sleep! Woke up feeling good and alert, so we’re heading out, Loop.
Heading out for where?
Home, sweet puppy! Wheeler Peak was the exciting conclusion for this Dingo Vacation. Must be 700 miles, or thereabouts, back to the Black Hills. May as well get an early start.
6-28-23, 3:39 PM, 63ºF – For 100 miles, an enormous thunderhead had been visible hanging over the Black Hills. Braving a cloudburst, Lupe sprang out of the RAV4 to dash into the house. Her 1st Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Colorado & New Mexico had been a blast! All over and done with now, but the Carolina Dog’s Summer of 2023 adventures were far from over.
Uncle Joe and Aunt Andrea were due tomorrow afternoon, bringing new Cousin Dixie with them! And, of course, preparations would soon begin for Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!
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