New Mexico – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Wheeler Peak, Sangre de Cristo Range, the New Mexico State High Point (6-27-23)

Days 20 – 22 of Lupe’s 1st Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Colorado & New Mexico!

6-26-23, 12:43 PM, Taos Ski Village – On the deck overlooking a rushing stream, SPHP sipped on a cherry sour.

Mushroom Swiss burger, Loop! Sure you don’t want a bite? Very tasty!

Lupe sat in the shade, content to merely watch SPHP eat while enjoying the sound of the water. The Carolina Dog could have gone into Door 38 Pizza – Taos Ale House; it was a dog friendly establishment, but SPHP was so filthy that avoiding the rest of the clientele as much as possible seemed prudent.

Out on the **Door 38 Pizza – Taos Ale House deck**.

Not interested, aye? Your loss, Loopster! Guess I’ll polish off the whole burger then.

After a steep, dusty drive up a wide gravel road, Lupe spent the rest of the afternoon hanging out at the Williams Lake trailhead. 40+ vehicles were there when SPHP pulled the RAV4 into the last available parking spot, but the popular trailhead began emptying out as the day wore on.

**Rich Peak (12,535 ft.)** (L of Center) from the **Williams Lake trailhead**. Photo looks S.

By evening, the American Dingo had a change of heart. Back at Door 38 Pizza – Taos Ale House again, this time when SPHP ordered a second Swiss Mushroom burger plus french fries, Lupe was not only a willing participant, but eager to make up for her earlier abstinence.

6-27-23, 7:27 AM – The big paved parking lot at the entrance to the Taos Ski Village that had been jam packed yesterday was practically empty when Lupe leapt out of the RAV4.

We’re leaving from here, SPHP? What happened to the Williams Lake trailhead?

A nice guy named John at the little barn-like visitor center gave me a nifty trail system map yesterday, Loop. We can start from here, and make a huge loop coming back down that way. Longer and more elevation gain the way we’re going, but you can tag a few more peaks along the way, too.

As long as we still make it to Wheeler Peak (13,161 ft.), that’s fine, SPHP. Loops are awesome; I’m practically named after them! Don’t want to miss out on only my 6th state high point ever, though.

Eh, never any guarantees in the mountains, Loopster. You know that. The forecast is kind of iffy no matter which way we go. If the weather holds up, we’ll make it. Trail all the way!

So where do we go, SPHP?

The Bull-of-the-Woods trailhead is right here, Looper, a couple hundred feet from the visitor center. Onward! Puppy, ho!

Bound for the top of New Mexico, the Carolina Dog set out on Wheeler Peak Trail No. 90.

The paved parking lot at the **entrance to the Taos Ski Village**. The **barn-shaped shed** on the L is the **visitor information center**. Photo looks SE.

**Bull-of-the-Woods trailhead**. The gravel road on the R goes to the Williams Lake trailhead.

**Free trail system map** available at the visitor center.

Entering the forest, the single track trail became broad and rather rocky. Climbing NE at a good clip, it paralleled an unseen stream hidden among the trees off to the R. After a 15 minute trek, Lupe came to a spot with a view of the stream, which was now quite close to the trail.

Pressing on, Trail No. 90 became less rocky, and sometimes leveled out. Another 20 minutes, during which glimpses of the stream continued to appear, got the American Dingo to a tributary coming down from Long Canyon. SPHP was happy to see a makeshift bridge of branches.

**Wheeler Peak Trail No. 90**. More roots and fewer rocks now. Photo looks NE.

Hah! Don’t even have to get our paws wet, Looper!

It’s summer! Nothing wrong with cooling your paws off, SPHP.

Beyond the ford, Lupe reached a junction with Long Canyon Trail No. 63.

At the **junction of Wheeler Peak Trail No. 90** and **Long Canyon Trail No. 63**.

Junction signage. **Long Canyon Trail No. 63** (L).

Sticking with Wheeler Peak Trail No. 90, the broad single track trail soon merged with an old roadbed. Despite the absence of any other obstacles, due to the steepness of the incline, SPHP had to keep pausing to gasp for air. With no views other than the forest, the road trek quickly became monotonous.

The rate of climb finally diminished as Lupe approached Bull-of-the-Woods Pasture.

Arriving at **Bull-of-the-Woods Pasture**. Photo looks NNE.

Located in the saddle region between Gold Hill (12,711 ft.) 2.5 miles NW, and Bull-of-the-Woods Mountain (11,640 ft.) less than 0.75 mile S, Bull-of-the Woods Pasture was not at all what SPHP expected.

You thought there would be more grass, SPHP?

Yeah, guess it was the word “pasture” that threw me, Loop. Kind of thought we might be able to see something from up here, too.

Well, it does have the “woods” part down, SPHP.

I’ll grant you that, Looper.

Actually there was a clearing at Bull-of-the-Woods Pasture, it just wasn’t as extensive as SPHP had envisioned. Furthermore, although Gold Hill wasn’t in sight, the forested N side of Bull-of-the-Woods Mountain was.

**Bull-of-the-Woods Mountain** (R) from **Bull-of-the-Woods Pasture**. Photo looks SSE.

Gold Hill Trail No. 64 branched off to the L here. Taking Wheeler Peak Trail No. 90 instead, it immediately curled SE, crossing a creek issuing from a small pond. The dirt road ahead looked new, and the sound of machinery came from this direction. Following this road, a single track trail soon branched off to the R as a light rain began to fall.

A sign said “Redi’s Run”.

At the **Bull-of-the-Woods Pasture pond and stream.** Photo looks NE.

On the new, or at least recently graded, dirt road. **Redi’s Run trail** (R).

Redi’s Run? Hang on, Loop, let’s get off the road. Not sure which way we need to go here.

Putting on the red rain jacket as it began raining harder, SPHP then checked the maps.

Hmm. No Redi’s Run mentioned on any of these maps, not even the one from the visitor center.

Maybe Redi is the name of the Bull-of-the-Woods, SPHP? He might come running through here at any moment!

Hope not. Didn’t bring any red capes to dodge him with.

Use your rain jacket, SPHP. It’s red!

Wasn’t necessary. An approaching roar proved to be a loaded logging truck coming down the road. A few minutes later, an empty truck backed up it.

Since Redi’s Run seemed destined to go downhill rather than up, once the empty logging truck disappeared from sight, Lupe followed it. She soon came to the place where it was being loaded.

Approaching the logging operation. Photo looks SE.

Rather than charge through all the activity, SPHP encouraged Lupe to go around it. Upon regaining the road on Bull-of-the-Woods Mountain’s N ridge, the Carolina Dog enjoyed her first distant view of the day, a look at Baldy Mountain (12,441 ft.) beyond the Red River valley.

**Red River valley** (Center), **Baldy Mountain** (R). Photo looks NE.

Despite cloudy skies, the sun reappeared. However, as Lupe continued along the freshly graded logging road around the upper W slopes of Bull-of-the-Woods Mountain, the sky darkened again.

Circling around **Bull-of-the-Woods Mountain**. Photo looks WSW.

Reaching the N end of Pass 11514, Wheeler Peak Trail No. 90 turned S as a single track, parting from the road, which veered N. Lupe took shelter beneath a spruce tree as it began to rain again.

Nothing too serious yet, but this might not be our day, Looper.

Don’t give up so easily, SPHP.

Oh, I’m not, Loopster! The top of Bull-of-the-Woods Mountain is real close, though, only 100 feet higher up the road. Won’t take us long. Want to tag the summit so you can claim at least one peakbagging success today no matter what else happens?

I’m all in, SPHP!

As soon as the rain abated, the American Dingo followed the road N.

Approaching the **Bull-of-the-Woods summit region**. Photo looks N.

The free trail system map from the visitor center didn’t mention it, but the topo maps showed mines on Bull-of-the-Woods Mountain. As Lupe approached the summit region, forest gave way to a ridge of loose rock that had clearly been disturbed. Going around the W end of this ridge, the Carolina Dog found a wide, almost level gash that had been carved across the mountain. Beyond the gap, a higher ridge looked natural.

6-27-23, 10:15 AM, 50ºF, Bull-of-the-Woods Mountain (11,640 ft.) – A short scramble to the top of this second ridge, and Lupe reached a pile of rocks evidently serving as a loosely assembled cairn. The Carolina Dog might have enjoyed the excellent view of Fraser Mountain (12,163 ft.), her next objective due S, but conditions were none too pleasant.

A 20-25 mph W wind swept over the barren, exposed summit driving a cold light rain.

**Fraser Mountain** (Center) from **Bull-of-the-Woods Mountain**. **Peak 13054** (L of Center) in the distance. Photo looks S.

Bull-of-the-Woods Mountain offered other views, too, notably Gold Hill (12,716 ft.) off to the NNW. However, a few minutes atop the wet, windy summit was enough. Lupe returned to the road and protection of the forest. By the time the American Dingo got back to where Wheeler Peak Trail No. 90 left the road near Pass 11514, the rain had ended.

Back at **Wheeler Peak Trail No. 90**. **Pass 11514** (Center) ahead. Photo looks S.

Well, phooey! Sorry about that, Loop. Seems we tagged Bull-of-the-Woods Mountain at the worst possible moment.

Still counts as a peakbagging success, SPHP. Maybe we’ll be luckier at Fraser Mountain?

Continuing down to the saddle at Pass 11514, Lupe crossed it. Trail No. 90 switchbacked SW, then SE, climbing through thick forest. Reaching a clearing where the trail turned SW again, it provided a terrific view of Gold Hill and mining-scarred Bull-of-the-Woods Mountain back to the N.

**Gold Hill** (L) and **Bull-of-the-Woods Mountain** (R). Photo looks N.

From this viewpoint, Trail No. 90 headed straight for the closest of a long line of snowbanks on the E side of the enormous ridge leading to Frazer Mountain, promptly vanishing beneath the snow. Climbing up and over the first snowbank, Lupe found no sign of the trail beyond it. However, the general direction she needed to go was clear. Heading S across flat, open ground, the Carolina Dog made rapid progress.

Heading for the big snowbanks on the E side of the ridge leading to Frazer Mountain. Photo looks SSW.

Searching for Trail No. 90 again on the way to Frazer Mountain. Photo looks SSE.

Near the end of the flat part of the gently rounded ridge, Lupe picked up Wheeler Peak Trail No. 90 again, which gradually climbed S along the windy W side of the ridge. At treeline now, the views were awesome! Kachina Peak (12,481 ft.) and Lake Fork Peak (12,881 ft.) were both in sight on the opposite side of the Taos Ski Valley, still sporting some snow.

**Lake Fork Peak** (Center), **Kachina Peak** (R of Center). Photo looks SSW.

The trail went by the upper end of a forested section, then remained out on open ground as it went clear to the top of Frazer Mountain’s N ridge. In addition to seeing all the gorgeous peaks towering over the upper end of the Taos Ski Valley, Lupe got to sniff some stunning wildflowers along the way.

Heading for the top of the ridge after passing the forested section. **Lake Fork Peak** (R). Photo looks S.

Wheeler Peak Trail No. 90 reached the top of the ridge only 0.1 mile N of Frazer Mountain, but did not go up to the summit, instead swinging over to the E side of the ridge. The W wind was especially powerful on top of the ridge, but Lupe enjoyed a bit of relief over on the protected E side.

However, the American Dingo wasn’t about to skip Frazer Mountain! After a brief respite from the wind, she left the trail, heading up the E slope in search of the true summit.

6-27-23, 11:50 AM, 52ºF, Frazer Mountain (12,163 ft.) – A 70 foot climb got Lupe to the top of a broad, flat summit region sprinkled with rocks amid tundra and wildflowers. Four mountain sheep who didn’t care to make the acquaintance of a Carolina Dog added excitement, racing away to the S as they abandoned these heights where the wind was 30 mph out of the WNW.

One of four Fraser Mountain mountain sheep.

From a cairn near the S end, Lupe had a terrific view of the territory ahead. Two big humps were now visible along the ridge leading S to Peak 13045. For the first time, Wheeler Peak (13,161 ft.) was also in sight.

**Peak 13045** (L), **Wheeler Peak** (L of Center), **Peak 12819** (R), and **Lake Fork Peak** (far R) from **Fraser Mountain**. Photo looks S.

The highest ground on Fraser Mountain was a bit back to the N, so Lupe headed over there to tag what appeared to be the true summit, an area scarcely any higher than the rest of the summit plateau. Upon getting there, SPHP made a discovery.

Well, shucks, Loop. Our GPS track messed up and quit recording before we even got to Bull-of-the-Woods Mountain.

Good spot to start a new one, SPHP. Then let’s get down out of this wind!

Heading back to the S end of Fraser Mountain’s summit plateau, Lupe began a rather steep descent on the open slope leading back down to Wheeler Peak Trail No. 90.

The region E of the next big hump to the S looked like the easiest route to Peak 13045 and ultimately Wheeler Peak, but shortly after reaching Trail No. 90 again, it turned E, continuing to lose elevation. Naturally, the trail ought to have worked, too, but upon reaching a forest, it immediately vanished beneath mounds of snow.

At the **S end of Fraser Mountain** about to head down to the L to pick up Trail No. 90 again. **Peak 13045** (far L), **Wheeler Peak** (L), **Lake Fork Peak** (far R). Photo looks S.

Entering the forest as Trail No. 90 vanishes beneath the snow. Photo looks SSE.

While Lupe had no problem with it, SPHP soon found post-holing in deep snow amid dense forest without a clue where the trail had gone rather discouraging.

Ugh! We should have just stayed up on the easy terrain E of that next hill, Loop. This is ridiculous!

Want to go back, SPHP? We can.

Yeah, but instead of going back along the trail, Loopster, let’s just angle SW until we get above all these trees and snow.

Snow extended all the way up to where the trees were mere stunted miniatures of the ones down in the main forest. Traversing this steep, rocky, upper slope was slow going. However, once far enough S, open terrain on the opposite E side of a shallow valley looked much better.

About to cross the shallow valley ahead. **Peak 13045** (L). Photo looks S.

After crossing the valley, Lupe’s off-trail exploration got substantially easier. She’d made it to the La Cal Basin, a flat, obstacle-free region.

Progress was excellent until the American Dingo turned E, starting a steep climb straight up the W side of Peak 13045’s massive NNE ridge. SPHP frequently paused to gasp for air. Fortunately, less than halfway up, Lupe came across Wheeler Peak Trail No. 90 again.

Exposed once more to the powerful W wind, switchbacking gradually higher, the trail made getting to the ridgeline easier. Reaching the crest, Peak 13045 was directly ahead, with Mount Walter (13,133 ft.) in view less than 0.25 mile beyond it. Looking ESE, Horseshoe Lake was in sight nearly 1,000 feet below.

**La Cal Basin** (L), **Frazer Mountain** (R foreground), and **Gold Hill** (far R) from partway up **Peak 13045‘s NNE ridge**. Photo looks NW.

Approaching **Peak 13045** (R). **Mount Walter** (L). Photo looks S.

**Horseshoe Lake** (Center) from Peak 13045’s NNE ridge. Photo looks ESE.

Continuing up Peak 13045’s NE slope, Wheeler Peak Trail No. 90 made a few short switchbacks, but did not go all the way to the top. Instead, the trail began traversing the upper E slope. However, Lupe soon came to a snowbank where the trail vanished.

On **Peak 13045‘s upper E slope**. **Mount Walter summit** (R of Center). Photo looks S.

The snow’s too steep, Loopster! Don’t chance it.

Backtracking a bit to snow-free ground, Lupe abandoned the trail again and started climbing.

6-27-23, 2:46 PM – 60 feet was enough to get the Carolina Dog to the top of the small, flat, rocky plain that was the summit of Peak 13045. Only the W half of this plain was snow-free, but that was sufficient. Mount Walter was now directly ahead beyond a small saddle, and Wheeler Peak was less than half a mile farther.

**Mount Walter** (L) and **Wheeler Peak** (R) from **Peak 13045**. Photo looks S.

The route was open, the top of New Mexico within reach, but was Lupe too late? The W wind was stronger than ever up here, and although blue sky still dominated S and SE, at all points W, dark clouds and a long, gray line of rain showers were being driven this way.

**Peak 12819** (L) **Williams Lake** (Center), **Lake Fork Peak** (R of Center) from **Peak 13045**. Photo looks SW.

Our timing is looking worse than ever, SPHP.

I know it. Onward! Puppy, ho!

Setting off at speed, Lupe had barely crossed the saddle leading to Mount Walter and started up its N ridge when a few raindrops fell, stinging due to the force of the steadily increasing gale. Thunder rumbled. W of the trail, a grassy slope was below a big snowbank.

Go down there, Looper! No sense in being complete idiots, and getting ourselves fried right on the crest of the ridge!

Running NW down the slope a little way, SPHP dumped the pack, layered up as much as possible with the red rain jacket over all, then sat down.

On my lap, Loop! I’ve got another coat I can put over you.

Leaving **Peak 13045** for **Mount Walter** (R). **Red Dome** (L). Photo looks SE.

This open slope a few 10’s of feet below the ridgeline was it for shelter. Gonna to have to face whatever the storm dished out.

The wind came in swirling in from various directions, but mostly from straight out of the NW, perhaps due to the configuration of the terrain. Prolonged 50 mph gusts were occasionally separated by brief moments of relative calm. As line after line of showers swept over Mount Walter, rain, snow pellets, and tiny hail pelted Lupe. SPHP’s hands started to freeze, forcing a search of the pack for gloves.

Several cloud to ground lightning strikes crackled only a few miles N. No view of what was happening to the S, but thunder boomed from that direction, as well. Despite the fierce wind, the showers seemed to move slowly. At last, a patch of blue sky appeared far to the W.

Waiting the storm out. **Peak 12012** (L), **Peak 13045** (R). Photo looks NW.

The patch of blue sky grew slowly, at first spreading only toward the N. However, the rain abated and the wind even began to taper off slightly. Lupe waited until the last of the thunder was well to the E.

OK, Loop. You’re cutting off my circulation – my leg’s going numb. We’ve been here a whole hour. Time to get moving again!

6-27-23, 4:19 PM, 40ºF – The next bump along the ridgeline wasn’t the true summit of Mount Walter (13,133 ft.), but it wasn’t much farther. Arriving in a 40 mph gale, Lupe found a metal plaque commemorating H. D. Walter atop a pole sticking out of a pile of rocks.

**Mount Walter summit**. **Wheeler Peak** (L). Photo looks SW.

With the wind as annoying as it was, Lupe lingered on Mount Walter only 5 or 10 minutes before pressing on to her final objective.

Closing in on **Wheeler Peak** (Center), the **New Mexico state high point**! Photo looks SSW.

6-27-23, 4:38 PM, 45ºF, Wheeler Peak (13,161 ft.) – Unfortunately, the wild W wind wasn’t about to cut Lupe any slack just because she’d made it to the top of New Mexico. Even so, the relentless 40 – 50+ mph breeze did reward her with what may have been a rare moment of privacy here on a late June afternoon. Not a soul was around.

The summit featured a rock wall serving as a completely inadequate windbreak astride the natural high point. A battered directional survey marker was attached to one of the highest rocks comprising the wall.

Wheeler Peak also possessed a much more unusual landmark in the form of a capped, heavy metal horizontal pipe jutting out of a pyramid of rocks cemented together. This pyramid bore a metal plaque in honor of Major George Montague Wheeler, and sat on a tilting concrete base.

On **Wheeler Peak**, **New Mexico’s highest mountain**! Photo looks SW.

**Major George Montague Wheeler commemorative plaque**.

Next to the **directional survey marker** (R). **Pueblo Peak** (L), **Vallecito Mountain** (R). Photo looks SW.

**Wheeler Peak directional survey marker**.

Attempting to turn the cap fastened by a chain to the heavy metal pipe protruding from the pyramid, SPHP was surprised at how easily it came off. Signing Lupe’s name in the registry notebook hidden within was a challenge in the wind, but SPHP made sure her ascent was noted.

Congratulations, Loopster! You’ve officially made it to Wheeler Peak, the New Mexico state high point.

Thank you, SPHP! Wish my 6th state high point wasn’t so windy, though.

You and me both, Looper. Under the circumstances, we aren’t going to hang around up here for a whole hour. Let’s get some photos.

SPHP shook Lupe’s paw, then the photo session began.

Baldy Mountain (12,441 ft.) and Touch-Me-Not Mountain (12,044 ft.) beyond a broad valley were the big highlights miles to the NE.

**Mount Walter** (L) and **Baldy Mountain** (R). Photo looks NE.

**Baldy Mountain** (L) and **Touch-Me-Not Mountain** (R). Photo looks ENE.

On a better day, Simpson Peak (12,976 ft.) looked easily attainable only 0.5 mile S. Continuing SE to Old Mike Peak (13,113 ft.) from Simpson appeared to be just a romp. Red Dome (12,681 ft.) would have added another mile farther E.

**Red Dome** (L edge), **Old Mike Peak** (Center), **Simpson Peak** (R). Photo looks SE.

Gazing NNW down the Taos Ski Valley, the Williams Lake trailhead was in sight below the ski runs coming down off Peak 12012. Farther down the valley, part of the Taos Ski Village close to where Lupe had set out from was visible. However, the wind was so ferocious along the W edge that SPHP didn’t even try to get a glimpse of whether or not Williams Lake could be seen from Wheeler Peak.

**Peak 12012** (L), **Williams Lake trailhead** (Center), **Taos Ski Village** below it, **Gold Hill** (R), **Frazer Mountain** (far R) at the lower end of the ridge. Photo looks NNW.

The most magnificent views of all, though, were toward the SW where Pueblo Peak (12,305 ft.) and the top of Vallecito Mountain (12,643 ft.) jutted up beyond the ridge between Peak 12819 and Lake Fork Peak (12,881 ft.) beneath a stormy sky.

**Peak 12819** (far L), **Pueblo Peak** (L), **Vallecito Mountain** (Center), **Lake Fork Peak** (R). Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.

Despite the relentless gale out of the W and still questionable outlook, 15 minutes into Lupe’s stay she spotted someone rapidly approaching from Mount Walter. She soon met Casey, only the 3rd person she’d seen all day. Casey was friendly, but hung around 10 minutes tops, declining to even sign the registry before heading back N.

6-27-23, 5:10 PM – Casey was gone. Once again, Lupe had Wheeler Peak to just herself, SPHP, and the wild W wind, which hadn’t shown the least sign of letting up.

Been here half an hour, Loopster. Maybe Casey’s right? Ready to head down and get out of this gale?

Hate to leave before my traditional summit hour is over, SPHP. Especially on only my 6th state high point!

Feel the same way, Looper, but its kind of hard to enjoy it. Won’t the next half hour just be an ordeal to endure for no real reason, if we stay? We’re lucky to have made it here at all. If the storm had lasted longer, or been more severe, we would never have made it.

I suppose that makes sense, SPHP. Count our blessings, and go! Certainly had a memorable experience, and after all, Wheeler Peak’s been a success!

Precisely, sweet puppy!

The sky was a little brighter, the W wind as rambunctious as ever, as the Carolina Dog returned briefly to the rock wall built over the natural true summit.

Final moments atop **Wheeler Peak**. Photo looks SW.

Between Mount Walter and Wheeler Peak, Lupe had passed a junction with Williams Lake Trail No. 62, the shortest route back, and clearly now by far the quickest way down out of the wind. Eager to complete the big loop proposed earlier in the day, the American Dingo left Wheeler Peak ready to explore this most popular route.

Heading for **Williams Lake Trail No. 62** seen below **Peak 13045** (L of Center) and **Mount Walter** (R). Photo looks N.

Switchbacks made the descent of the steep open slope a snap. For a long way, part of Williams Lake was in view, nestled down in the upper end of the Taos Ski Valley surrounded by the glories of many of New Mexico’s highest peaks. Lupe lost hundreds of feet of elevation before the W wind diminished. By the time she reached the forest, not a breeze remained.

Switchbacking down **Wheeler Peak’s W slope**. **Pueblo Peak** (far L), **Lake Fork Peak** (Center) with a fragment of **Williams Lake** visible below it. Photo looks WSW.

Unidentified **unusual plant** along Williams Lake Trail No. 62. Anyone know what it is?

6-27-23, 8:29 PM, 55ºF, Taos Ski Village – Lupe hopped into the RAV4, glad to return to the comfort of her pink blanket after a long day.

I’m thinking Swiss mushroom burger! Sure you don’t want to come down to Door 38 Pizza – Taos Ale House with me, Loopster?

Perfectly content, and perhaps prescient, the American Dingo declined. SPHP was back soon enough.

Closed, weren’t they, SPHP?

Yup! 7:00 PM, and they roll up the sidewalk. I was a couple of hours late.

6-28-23, 2:30 AM, Taos Ski Village – SPHP turned the key, and the RAV4 sprang to life.

What’s going on, SPHP? It’s the middle of the night!

Can’t sleep! Woke up feeling good and alert, so we’re heading out, Loop.

Heading out for where?

Home, sweet puppy! Wheeler Peak was the exciting conclusion for this Dingo Vacation. Must be 700 miles, or thereabouts, back to the Black Hills. May as well get an early start.

6-28-23, 3:39 PM, 63ºF – For 100 miles, an enormous thunderhead had been visible hanging over the Black Hills. Braving a cloudburst, Lupe sprang out of the RAV4 to dash into the house. Her 1st Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Colorado & New Mexico had been a blast! All over and done with now, but the Carolina Dog’s Summer of 2023 adventures were far from over.

Uncle Joe and Aunt Andrea were due tomorrow afternoon, bringing new Cousin Dixie with them! And, of course, preparations would soon begin for Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

On **Wheeler Peak**, Sangre de Cristo Range, the **New Mexico state high point** (6-27-23)

Links:

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Canjilon Mountain, San Juan Mountains, New Mexico (6-25-23)

Days 18 & 19 of Lupe’s 1st Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Colorado & New Mexico!

6-24-23, 6:06 AM, 35ºF – start of USFS Road No. 877, W of Lake City – Bleary-eyed, Lupe stared at SPHP in disbelief.

Up already? Why?

Oh, I don’t know, Loop. Woke up feeling surprisingly good, except for my smashed R pinky toe that the rock fell on yesterday. Even it’s doing better than it was. Thought I’d straighten out the RAV4 a bit before we head out.

Where to next, SPHP? We aren’t climbing any mountains today, are we?

Not exactly sure yet, Loop, except for S. We’re done in Colorado for this Dingo Vacation, so we’ll be heading into northern New Mexico. Haven’t decided which peak we’ll be going for yet, though.

Can you make it an easier one, SPHP? Maybe something without any frigid, frightening fords this time?

I’ll see what I can do, Loopster.

SE of Lake City, Hwy 149 climbed through spectacular scenery clear up to Slumgullion Pass (11,361 ft.) before going over less dramatic Spring Creek Pass (10,898 ft.), and dropping down into the Rio Grande River valley. This was all incredibly beautiful territory, but by the time Lupe arrived in Del Norte, she was out in the flats again. A short romp in North Park led to a view of the big river, which was full to the point of overflowing – not surprising at all, given the incredible amount of snow Lupe had seen in the San Juans.

**Rio Grande River** from North Park in Del Norte. Photo looks NW.

From Del Norte, it wasn’t far to Monte Vista, a town that had become a Lupe favorite, and where she spent the rest of the morning and half of the afternoon squirrel watching, or dozing on her pink blanket in the RAV4 in the shade of the big cottonwoods out in front of the high school. SPHP dined on cherry turnovers and orange juice while working on the trip journal and pondering the Carolina Dog’s next move.

The afternoon temperature soared into the 80’s ºF. Time to head out and turn on the AC! Another scenic drive, this time into New Mexico, and by early evening the RAV4 was parked along USFS Road No. 124 a few miles WSW of Canjilon Mountain (10,913 ft.).

Evening in **New Mexico** along **USFS Road No. 124**. Photo looks SSW.

6-25-23, 9:00 AM, 55ºF, USFS Road No. 124 – Got chilly last night! With an easy day expected, SPHP remained snuggled under the blankets until the sun hit the treetops before heating up a can of chili. Served Taste of the Wild with chili poured over the top, at first the American Dingo wouldn’t touch it. When she did, the combo was a big hit.

Oh, that hit the spot, SPHP!

Glad you liked it, Looper. Warming up fast, so we might as well get going.

No frigid fords this time, SPHP?

Nope, and not a cloud in the sky. You might be wishing for one by the time this is over and done with.

Canjilon Mountain was a road hike. The trek began with a 0.5 mile stint on USFS Road No. 124, following it SE going gradually uphill to a junction with No. 274B.

About to set out along **No. 124** for **Canjilon Mountain**. Photo looks SE.

At the junction with **USFS Road No. 274B** (L). **No. 124** (R). Photo looks SE.

Making the L turn onto No. 274B, it immediately led to a clearing full of tall, brilliantly green plants with big leaves and wild irises.

Entering the **first clearing near the start of USFS Road No. 274B**. Photo looks N.

Amid the big green plants and wild irises. Photo looks NE.

Wow! Can’t believe how lush it is here in New Mexico, SPHP. Colorado wasn’t this green!

Early summer is probably a good time of year to be here, Looper. Plus we’re a few thousand feet lower here than we were in Colorado, so the plants have had more of a chance to grow.

No. 274B left the clearing heading NE, before eventually turning E. Lupe appreciated the shade of the trees as the road continued a gradual climb through open forest. However, although pleasant, most of the territory the Carolina Dog was traveling through wasn’t nearly as lush as that first clearing.

Winding through the open forest. Photo looks NE.

A lovely stretch of tall aspens. Photo looks S.

Ambling along in no particular rush, partly due to SPHP’s sore toe, every now and then a cow could be heard mooing in the forest. Glancing back, a black cow was bringing up the rear, right on the road. Seeing that this cow was a loner emboldened the American Dingo. Turning the tables, Lupe dashed off in pursuit of the cow, which soon ran past SPHP.

For pity sake, SPHP! Don’t you know anything about hunting? That was dinner! You were supposed to head that cow off at the pass. We could have had T-bone steaks!

Sorry, Loop. Didn’t think this was a pass. Besides, I bet there’s a rancher who wouldn’t take too kindly to us eating his steaks. If you see any more cows, leave ’em alone!

The cow was now somewhere up ahead. Lupe soon heard it mooing again. By the time she saw it over on a hillside, the cow had found a friend. Both cows still seemed to be looking for the rest of the herd.

This time, the Carolina Dog behaved. The road trek continued without further incident. More clearings appeared. From the first big one, Lupe got her first unobstructed view of distant forested ridges to the W.

Although forest was always nearby, the road increasingly went through sunny meadows. During forested stretches, or whenever a tree was next to the road, Lupe often wanted to relax in the shade and have a drink of water. Overall progress remained excellent, and a high ridge eventually came into view. Mostly forested, a long stretch along the top was bare.

Following USFS Road No. 274B through a meadow. Photo looks E.

Approaching the high ridge. Photo looks NE.

That ridge must be the top of Canjilon Mountain, Loop.

Already? Looks easy, SPHP. We’ve got this one made, if that’s really it!

Turning N for a little way, the road entered a vast, flat meadow. The Canjilon Mountain summit ridge and entire W slope were now in sight. The lower part was mostly open, while the upper regions were forested. Angling NE over to the base of the slope, the only steep part of the entire journey was now ahead.

**Canjilon Mountain** (R). Photo looks NE.

At the base of the much steeper climb. Photo looks ENE.

The top of the mountain was only 400 feet higher now. No. 274B headed up the W slope as a deeply eroded rocky gash. A turn S, then back to the E, and the road reached a gentler, open slope. Abandoning No. 274B, Lupe climbed NNE past a few scattered trees.

Heading up the W slope on stoney, badly eroded No. 274B. Photo looks SE.

About to head up to the **summit** (Center) along the slope on the R. Photo looks NNE.

6-25-23, 11:56 AM, 68ºF, Canjilon Mountain (10,913 ft.) – The terrain leveled out as Lupe reached the bare part of the ridge, which was 800 feet long. The true summit was a fairly large flat area covered with small rocks right along the steep W edge. In all other directions, the ground sloped away only very gradually.

At the **true summit of Canjilon Mountain**. Photo looks N.

The big view was off to the W, where an enormous region of lowlands extended toward distant ridges that weren’t even close to being as high as Canjilon Mountain. Higher snow-capped peaks of the San Juan Range were visible to the NW, but were so far away that they may have been in Colorado. Forested ridges of roughly equal elevation were to the S, but were also far away. Featureless from here, they lacked rugged appeal.

The big view. **Red Hill** (L of Center) in the foreground. Photo looks W.

**Distant snow-capped peaks** (Center). Photo looks NW.

Beyond a large, nearly flat meadow, forest hid any views to the N and E. However, a couple items of potential interest were in these directions. 200 feet ENE of the true summit, a battered old cabin stood alone in the meadow, surrounded by a multitude of purple or blue wildflowers with yellow centers. Another 400 feet N, some sort of a display was along the edge of the forest, as if a trailhead was over there.

Let’s check out the cabin, SPHP!

Might as well, Loopster.

Heading over to check out the cabin. Photo looks E.

The poor, old, weather-beaten cabin was tiny, and in a sad state. Lupe sniffed around the outside, finding little of interest, then went in. Other than names and graffiti carved into the walls, pieces of plywood and broken glass, the cabin’s only room was empty.

The weather-beaten exterior. Photo looks E.

At the front door. Actually, Lupe’s standing on it. Photo looks NW.

Too much broken glass to stick around. Photo looks E.

Definitely seen better days, Looper.

Actually, I’m sort of surprised, SPHP. Doesn’t look like the roof leaks.

Yeah, you’re right, Loop. If I had a broom and dustpan to sweep up the broken glass, this cabin might still make a decent temporary shelter.

Well, we won’t need one today, SPHP. Not much more to see here, is there? Maybe there’s something interesting over at the trailhead?

USFS Road No. 274B, which went right over the mountain, disappeared into the forest right next to the display.

Hmm. This display doesn’t actually have anything to do with any trails, Loopster.

Not terribly surprising, SPHP. Few trails start at the tops of mountains. So, what is it about?

Says Carson National Forest at the top, and below that shows 3 old photos and a historic note that is itself weathering away. Can’t make all of it out, but here’s what it says, Loop:

“This restored cabin is the oldest surviving fire lookout structure in the SW. The cabin and now dismantled fire tower were built around 1910. Being the highest point around (10,913 feet) and very open, lightning strikes frequently up here. In the summer of 1922 Victor Ortega and his family lived in the tiny cabin while he watched for forest fires from the tower. One afternoon, lightning struck the cabin and the tower, killing Victor on the second strike. The tower …. illegible … abandoned and dismantled.”

Oh, that’s very sad, SPHP! What happened to Victor’s family in the cabin? Were they OK?

Don’t know. That’s all it says, Loopster. There’s a picture of Victor Ortega, and a couple of the fire tower. One shows the cabin in much better shape, but with the tower either under construction, or already damaged by the lightning strike.

After that sad tale, it was time to take a break. Heading over to the steep W edge, Lupe then went N looking for a shady spot open enough to still have a view.

N of the cabin looking for a shady spot with a view. Photo looks S.

Oddly enough, the American Dingo quickly found a spot that seemed ideal. Not only did it have a view to the SW, but a small snowbank was conveniently nearby where Lupe could cool off and eat some snow.

The view from the break spot along the W edge. Photo looks SW.

Enjoying the little snowbank melting in the forest. Photo looks SSE.

Those features weren’t what was odd about this spot, though. What was unusual was the ancient wooden cross sticking out from a loose pile of stones. Held together by rusty wire, the cross had half fallen over.

By the **ancient cross** (L). Photo looks NNE.

Oh, my gosh, SPHP! Do you suppose they buried Victor Ortega right here?

Who knows, Loopster? Someone or something is probably buried here. Can’t rule it out. Victor may be just a few feet below us.

Lupe stayed quite a while near Victor’s grave, if that’s what it was. SPHP ate a pear fruit cup while pondering the view Victor must have seen hundreds of times. The Carolina Dog wanted only water and a chance to doze in the shade.

The summer of 1922, that was 101 years ago. Victor and his family had been alive and well on Canjilon Mountain until that fateful lightning storm had blown in. Now Lupe was here on a beautiful day Victor never even dreamed of, a day more than a century into the future, beyond the reach of any individual human’s aspirations.

That stormy day so long ago had been just as real as this one. Now all that remained of Victor and the world he knew were a few old photos, a brief history that time was in the process of erasing, and maybe this pile of stones and forlorn old cross.

Before leaving Canjilon Mountain, Lupe returned to the tiny cabin where Victor and his family once lived. Even if in perfect condition, it seemed impossibly small, remote, and simple for a family residence.

Heading back to Victor’s cabin. Photo looks S.

60 feet straight out from the front door, Lupe found an arrow survey marker that pointed toward the true summit.

The **“Jilon” directional survey marker**.

About the time she found it, a distant roar was heard.

Something’s coming, SPHP!

Nope. Not some terrible thunderstorm. A dune buggy came roaring up USFS Road No. 274B from the S like some giant mechanical insect. The buggy stopped briefly at the true summit, before roaring away again and disappearing into the forest as it sped by the historical display.

Getting to be time to go. Alive and well, 101 years after Victor Ortega’s last summer on Canjilon Mountain, Lupe paid her respects, sitting for a few minutes among the wildflowers near the true summit about where the old fire tower had once stood.

6-25-23, 1:22 PM – Returning to the true summit, the wind, which had been light when Lupe had first arrived, was now 20 mph out of the W. Looking down the W slope, USFS Road No. 274B was in sight in the flat meadows below. The road didn’t go to it, but a much lower forested hill was in sight, too, less than 2 miles away.

Want to tag Red Hill (10,160 ft.) on the way back, Loop? Chance to do some exploring, and ought to be a snap.

**Red Hill** (R of Center). Photo looks W.

The American Dingo was all for it. Heading back down the S slope, Lupe picked up No. 274B again, following it down the W slope to the big flat meadow. There she left the road, continuing WNW toward Red Hill.

Leaving **Canjilon Mountain**. Photo looks S.

On the way to **Red Hill** (Center). Photo looks WNW.

The trek to Red Hill was a pleasant, downhill march, mostly through open fields. Hot in her fur coat beneath the New Mexico sun, Lupe wanted to pause in the shade of a grove of tall aspen trees.

With many hours of daylight remaining there was no reason not to stop, and let her enjoy the afternoon. Resting in the shade of a big aspen with a crooked trunk, Lupe actually snoozed for a while under some little evergreens.

Enjoying half an hour at the aspen oasis. Photo looks WNW.

Closing in on Red Hill, Lupe was still in the meadows when she came upon a spot near a barbed wire fence where some totally clueless people had once had a picnic, leaving a huge mess behind. SPHP had already started collecting Lupe treasures along USFS Road No. 274B on the way to Canjilon Peak. By the time SPHP finished cleaning up this mess, 2 more plastic grocery bags were full.

Following the fence, which had completely fallen over in some places, Lupe eventually had to duck under it to continue the journey to Red Hill, now only 0.25 mile away.

The American Dingo never got there. Beyond the fence stood a forest so dense and full of deadfall, that SPHP quickly had a change of heart.

The **dense, deadfall-strewn forest leading to Red Hill**. Photo looks WNW.

Eh. Red Hill’s hardly worth it, Loopster. Saw from Canjilon Mountain that the whole hill is forested, so even if we reach the top, we won’t see a thing.

Then why did you even suggest it, SPHP?

Thought it would be easy to tag the high point, Loop. Would have been, too, if not for all this deadfall.

Lupe didn’t care. Battling deadfall wasn’t the Carolina Dog’s favorite thing, either. Besides, she’d already made it to Canjilon Mountain, her main objective. Slipping back under the fence, then wandering roughly SSW, it was farther back to USFS Road No. 274B than SPHP expected. However, Lupe had a blast exploring the meadows and more open forests along the way.

An old cow path eventually led to a salt lick from which No. 274B was visible 100 feet away. During the rest of the road hike return, SPHP kept gathering Lupe treasures until it wasn’t possible to carry any more.

6-25-23, 3:53 PM, 77ºF, USFS Road No. 124 – The RAV4 was an oven when Lupe got back. Even so, she leapt up onto her pink blanket as soon as SPHP opened the door, then laid there panting in 110ºF heat.

Are you nuts? Get out of there, Loop! You’ll cook!

Opening all the windows, a breeze quickly blew the hot air out, but with everything inside still blistering hot to the touch, SPHP wouldn’t let Lupe back in until the sun got lower and the evening cooled off. Happily, the only thing that cooked was another can of chili for dinner.

Canjilon Mountain (10,913 ft.), with its unexpected sad tale of events 101 years ago, had been a much easier, more relaxing day than Lupe’s most recent prior adventures, and a welcome, needed break. Perhaps a somewhat wistful one, too.

Remembering **Victor Ortega** on Canjilon Mountain, San Juan Mountains, New Mexico 6-25-23

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

Lupe’s Scrollable GPS Track

Lupe treasures gathered: 24 aluminum cans, 12 plastic bottles, 3 glass bottles, miscellaneous.

Chicoma Mountain & Polvadera Peak, Jemez Mountains, New Mexico (5-21-21)

Part 2 of Day 13 & Day 14 of Lupe’s 1st Summer of 2021 Dingo Vacation to New Mexico!

5-20-21, 5:13 PM – Heading NW out of Espanola SPHP missed the turn off Hwy 84/285 to the Jemez Mountains. This mistake had been corrected, though, and the American Dingo now stood in the middle of USFS Road No. 144 – a wide gravel road as flat as a pancake, straight as an arrow. Miles away loomed two massive peaks.

Which one is Chicoma Mountain (11,561 ft.), SPHP?

Not entirely sure, Looper. Might be either one, or maybe neither, but if I had to guess, the one straight ahead seems most likely.

**Chicoma Mountain** (Center) from USFS Road No. 144. **Santa Clara Indian Reservation High Point** **(10,761 ft.)** (L of Center). Photo looks W.

At the end of the long straightaway, No. 144 began climbing steadily as it curved NW. Next came a shorter straight stretch NNE that led up to the steep S face of Clara Peak (8,549 ft.). Turning W again, the drive was spectacular, featuring tremendous exposure. No. 144 narrowed and grew rocky as it wound along the mountainside, ramping ever higher.

SPHP was thankful there was no traffic at all. No. 144 finally curved N and flattened out W of Los Cerros (8,434 ft.). SPHP parked the RAV4 at a wide spot. Time for another look!

**Santa Clara Indian Reservation HP** (L), **Chicoma Mountain** (L of Center), and **Polvadera Peak** (R) from **W of Los Cerros**. Photo looks W.

Once underway again, No. 144 lost 200 feet of elevation, then leveled out for a bit before resuming its long climb. The road kept deteriorating. Fewer and fewer smooth sections, more and more rough stretches. No exposure here, though, making the drive less nerve-wracking. After passing through mostly open territory, No. 144 entered a dense forest. No signage except for occasional mile markers. The RAV4 crept higher mile after mile.

Are we there yet, SPHP? How far is it to Chicoma Mountain, anyway?

About mile marker 28 or 29, I think. Might be tricky to recognize the right spot. We’ll need to be watching for Trail No. 276 on the L if we ever get to the top of this endless climb.

The RAV4 finally reached a pass. No. 144 angled WNW starting down the other side. Only 100-200 feet from the top MP28 appeared. Just beyond it USFS Road No. 144.D1 took off to the N (R). SPHP drove a little farther before turning around and parking.

Think we’re close, Loop. Come on! Let’s see if we can find Trail No. 276!

After being cooped up in the RAV4 all afternoon, Lupe was eager to get out and sniff. Finding a narrow break in the trees, the Carolina Dog roamed WSW up a hill. If the RAV4 was parked where SPHP thought it was, this hill was Peak 11,110.

Lupe sniffed like a Dingo possessed! A little way into the forest she came to a grassy lane with a wand marked 144.X1. The barely recognizable abandoned road soon petered out. Loop went all the way to the top of Peak 11110. No sign of Trail No. 276, but a couple of miles off to the SE was a glimpse of an even higher hill. Chicoma Mountain? Probably.

But where was Trail No. 276? It was supposed to go all the way to the top of Chicoma Mountain from somewhere around here. The sun was getting low, but enough daylight remained to do a little more scouting. Returning to the RAV4, SPHP drove back over the pass. After 0.33 mile, a side road appeared heading W into the forest.

SPHP parked the RAV4 again. Lupe leapt out. Less than 100 feet in on the side road a badly leaning wand marked 114.U stood at a curve.

No. 144.U was muddy. It went S to an enormous flat saddle between HP11021 and Chicoma Mountain. The saddle region was only partially forested. Exploring SW across the saddle, Loop found old stone campfire rings and human trash in the meadows. Way over toward the SW end, a distinct, but unsigned trail headed SE into the forest.

Hah! Good job, Loopster! This must be Trail No. 276!

Let’s check it out, SPHP!

After going through the forest a little way, the trail left the trees. Just ahead it traversed a large steep grassy slope. To the W was a big view of Santa Clara Canyon, but something was wrong. Up to this point the trail had been pretty level. Ahead it sloped gradually downhill.

Huh? I don’t get it.

What’s wrong, SPHP?

How can this be Trail No. 276, Loop? We should be going up! Sure doesn’t look like this trail is ever going to get to the top of Chicoma Mountain.

Are you convinced we’re in the right area, SPHP?

Yeah. Almost 100%.

Well, at least that’s something. Getting dark. Maybe we better go back to the RAV4? We can figure out what to do in the morning.

5-21-21, 6:29 AM, 43ºF, USFS Road No. 144 near 144.U –

Daylight in the swamps, SPHP!

Ugh! Already? So it is, sweet puppy!

Chicoma Mountain (11,561 ft.) or bust, SPHP!

Eh, won’t be that bad! Hang on, I’ll be right with you, Looper!

Any bright ideas this morning, SPHP?

Oh, sort of. Since we weren’t able to find Trail No. 276, there’s really only a couple of options that make much sense. Either way, we take No. 144.U back to the saddle NW of Chicoma. Option No. 1 is to stick with No. 144.U, which the topo map shows turning E continuing partway up the mountain before dead-ending. Then it’s a bushwhack S to the summit.

And option No. 2?

Simply abandon the road at the saddle and bushwhack up from the NW. Might still run into Trail No. 276, or whatever’s left of it, somewhere along the way.

At the leaning wand near the start of USFS Road No. 144.U. Photo looks SSE.

Arriving at the **saddle NW of Chicoma Mountain** (**SE of HP11021**). Photo looks S.

Since Lupe showed no great preference between the available options, SPHP chose to stick with No. 144.U as far up the mountain as possible. However, an unexpected fork appeared before Loop reached the end of No. 144.U.

Which way, SPHP? Up?

Past the saddle, heading E on USFS Road No. 144.U. Photo looks E.

This unmarked fork wasn’t shown on the map. No. 144.U went straight from here, but had just about leveled out. At least the side road to the R was gaining elevation.

Yeah, stick to the R, Loopster! Might as well take the side road higher. Pretty sure they keep the summit at the top of this mountain!

Heading SE, or maybe S, the side road wound farther up the mountain. Soon it began to play out, more or less as anticipated. The route finally vanished completely on a slope in open forest where a fair amount of deadfall was present.

At the end of the side road. Photo looks SSE?

Leaping over deadfall as she came to it, Lupe continued higher. The slope wasn’t all that steep, and soon just about flattened out completely. This flat region was more densely forested, contained 3 foot high snow drifts and even more deadfall, and proved to be surprisingly large. Still, Lupe didn’t have much trouble weaving through it all.

Glimpses of another, steeper slope eventually appeared ahead. The first part of this slope was all thickly forested, too, but Lupe hadn’t climbed too much higher when a large grassy meadow appeared. Not that far from the top of the mountain now!

Getting close to the top! Photo looks SE.

Loopster came up near the NE end of a summit region 500 feet long and 50 to 100 feet wide. This whole area was quite flat. Most of it was open terrain covered with pebbles and short grass. Spruce trees, bordered by snow drifts in some places, ringed nearly the entire perimeter, choking off the views except toward the NE.

A massive cairn of much larger rocks topped by a tall wooden pole was visible 2/3 of the way toward the SW end. Lupe ventured over and scrambled up to claim her Chicoma Mountain (11,561 ft.) peakbagging success!

**Chicoma Mountain summit**. Photo looks SW.

Another Carolina Dog peakbagging success!

The topo map showed a “Langley” survey benchmark. This was easily found near the cairn, but lacked the expected Langley stamp.

After visiting the cairn and survey benchmark, Lupe began exploring the rest of the summit region. At the far SW end, she came to an odd spot where 5 paths outlined in rock radiated out from a single point. Maybe one of these paths was Trail No. 276?

At the convergence of the 5 mysterious paths. Photo looks SW.

A quick sniff along each path revealed that they all simply vanished among the trees a few tens of feet from the point of origin. Strange!

Looper wandered back past the cairn to the opposite end of the summit region. After enjoying the views, SPHP encouraged the American Dingo to return to the 5 odd paths. Had anything been missed there?

A more extensive check revealed only tree-broken glimpses of distant unknown peaks.

Near the NE end of the summit region. Photo looks SW.

A distant view from back at the SW end of the summit region. Photo looks ?

Looking (?) with help from the telephoto lens.

40 minutes after arriving, Lupe returned briefly to Chicoma Mountain’s huge summit cairn. A final photo and she was off to where the views were best, not on top of the mountain, but 30 or 40 feet lower, just below the trees overlooking the long grassy N slope she had come up. Here there were sweeping panoramas of many mountains.

Only one was familiar to SPHP – Polvadera Peak (11,232 ft.), Lupe’s next destination.

Final moments atop **Chicoma Mountain**.

SPHP still hadn’t entirely given up on finding Trail No. 276. Rather than descend by the exact same route, Option 2 was the plan. Lupe headed NW down the long grassy slope aiming straight for the saddle leading to HP11021, precisely the route Trail No. 276 took on the map.

The views were splendid out on the open slope all the way down to the forest. However, Loop eventually arrived at the saddle without having seen any sign of Trail No. 276. It simply didn’t exist in recognizable form anymore. Picking up USFS Road No. 144.U again, a leisurely pace was taken back to the RAV4 while SPHP gathered numerous Lupe treasures humans had carelessly discarded along the way.

Starting down the grassy slope. **Santa Clara Canyon** (Center). Photo looks W.

Loopster, still high on **Chicoma Mountain’s upper NW slope**. Photo looks SE.

**Redondo Peak (11,254 ft.)** (Center). Photo looks SW.

5-21-21, 9:58 AM, 50ºF – Even at SPHP’s pace Chicoma Mountain hadn’t taken all that long. Still early. As soon as SPHP parked the RAV4 after the short drive up to USFS Road No. 144’s high point, Lupe bounded out rarin’ to go again. Trotting NW, she quickly reached the junction with No. 144.D1.

According to the map, Polvadera Peak was a little under 2.75 miles due N of this junction. No. 144.D1 would take Lupe only the first mile, but Trail No. 108 would then get her another mile closer, leaving only 0.75 mile of bushwhacking up Polvadera’s S ridge. Shouldn’t to be too hard! Assuming that is, that there actually was a Trail No. 108.

The trek on No. 144.D1 was super easy, a pretty straight shot gradually downhill or on the level with only minor course corrections the entire way. The road started out in the forest, eventually passing through sunny meadows before entering another stretch of forest.

Crossing one of the bigger meadows along No. 144.D1. Photo looks N.

In practically no time at all, Lupe reached the saddle S of HP10899. So far, so good, but it didn’t take long to realize that there was trouble. No. 144.D1 ought to have curved away to the SW here, but just seemed to end. More importantly, Trail No. 108 was supposed to continue N and traverse the E flank of HP10899. No sign of it. Of course.

Directly ahead was a meadow liberally endowed with assorted light gray boulders. Entering the meadow, Lupe went under a rickety barbed wire fence. Scouting around a bit ended in disappointment. Lovely area, but no sign of Trail No. 108.

In the bouldery meadow at the **saddle S of HP10899**. Photo looks N.

Huh. Couldn’t be that easy, could it, Looper?

So we just go to where the trail is supposed to be and bushwhack it. Right, SPHP? We’ll get there! We got to Chicoma Mountain easily enough!

Yeah, I don’t know, Looper. Nearly 2 miles to the top of Polvadera Peak from here, 4 times the bushwhacking we did at Chicoma. Maybe we should climb HP10899 and see what things look like from up there? Might be able to catch a glimpse of Polvadera Peak to keep us properly oriented.

Leaving the meadow behind, Lupe continued N. The trek up HP10899 wasn’t a big deal, only 130 feet of gradual elevation gain, but through thick forest. The top of the mountain was a big flat region. Looper did come to what appeared to be a marginally higher “summit”, a little pile of dirt only 1 or 2 feet tall. Completely surrounded by trees, everything looked the same in all directions. Absolutely no views at all.

This worked well, didn’t it, SPHP?

Oh, hush, sarcastic Dingo of mine! Let’s keep going. We’ll come to an opening somewhere along the line.

Shouldn’t we go back? At least bushwhack where the trail is supposed to be? Might find it!

You and I both know there is no trail. Not any more. This map is ancient! Waste of time and effort!

This time Lupe followed as SPHP led the way N. The flat region came to an end. No views yet. SPHP started down a slope that soon became steeper than the trek up the S slope had been. Lupe lost what seemed like a fair amount of elevation. Still nada.

Would you stop pawing the back of my leg, please?

Sure, if you’ll stop and listen for a moment, SPHP!

OK. Whatever! What do you want to say, Loop?

Are we going the right way?

Best as I can determine.

How are you navigating?

Using the shadows the trees cast on the ground.

It was cloudy at Chicoma Mountain only a little while ago. What happens if the sun disappears again? These mountains aren’t rugged, but they’re big. Hardly any roads. Without any landmarks in this forest, well …

Well, what? You’ll sniff our way back if I get turned around. We haven’t gone that far yet.

What if it rains and washes the scent away?

Oh, come on, worrywart Dingo! We’re in New Mexico – practically the whole state is desert.

So it never rains?

Sheesh! Of course, it does. But hardly ever. What’s gotten into you, anyway?

Just a feeling, SPHP.

Nothing changed. Continuing lower, the vast, featureless slope went on and on. Trees, trees, and more trees.

Upon reaching a flatter, sunnier spot, SPHP paused. The forest wasn’t nearly so thick here, yet still no views. No definitive clues on the map, either. The saddle S of Polvadera Peak that Lupe was seeking was a big one, but far enough away so that it wouldn’t take much of a mistake in direction to miss it. Hmm.

Alright, you win, Loopster! Seems ridiculous. This ought to be easy, just march right on down to the next saddle, but you’ve got me spooked now. Let’s go back.

At the turnaround point before heading back up to **HP10899**. Photo looks SSE.

Wasn’t as far back up to the top of HP10899 as SPHP had imagined. A mere 150 feet of elevation? Would have guessed twice that at least! Lupe managed to go right back to the same little pile of dirt at the “true summit”.

Stay farther E than we were before as we head S from here, Looper. Best chance of finding the trail, if there actually is one.

SPHP was totally demoralized by the time the American Dingo reached the boulder-strewn meadow again. Polvadera Peak should have been cake! Not going to find any trail. Chickening out and turning back had only ensured defeat.

Lupe wandered farther E through the meadow. Finding no indication of fictitious Trail No. 108, she turned SW to return to USFS Road No. 144.D1.

Guess this is it, aye, Loop? Too bad. Thought Polvadera Peak would be a fun one.

After sneaking back under the rickety fence, Lupe came to a road in the forest again, but nothing looked familiar. Going a little way W didn’t help the situation, so she ventured back to the E. To SPHP’s surprise, Looper came to an open gate in the rickety fence. Partially covered by snow, what looked like a faint ATV trail passed through the opening.

Here we go, SPHP! Let’s check this out!

Near the E end of the meadow, the ATV track wound its way N among a few scattered young pines, but soon faded away. Shucks! Disappointed again! Going a little farther though, a couple of large cut logs were seen ahead right along the edge of the forest. No path went toward them, but maybe a long shot worth investigating? Last chance, in any case.

So, what do you think, SPHP? This is it, isn’t it?

You’re right, Loop! This must be Trail No. 108, or whatever’s left of it!

Heading NNE into the forest, a distinct path went right past the cut logs.

S end of Trail No. 108. Photo looks NNE.

Trail No. 108 went almost due N varying its course very little. It started out fairly level, but Lupe was soon steadily losing elevation. Many cut logs were along the route, yet maintenance had apparently ended years ago. None of the cuts looked recent. Loop encountered deadfall with some degree of regularity, but it wasn’t too bad. Short use paths often existed around it.

Trail No. 108 looked so seldom traveled that it seemed quite possible it would soon vanish completely. However, confidence grew as it went on and on. The downhill trek was easy. The entire route was forested, with a pleasing sense of remote seclusion. The American Dingo made rapid progress. Eventually there were glimpses of Polvadera Peak ahead.

On Trail No. 108 in the remote, secluded forest.

A glimpse of **Polvadera Peak** (R of Center) ahead. Photo looks N.

Trail No. 108 finally did vanish, but not until it reached a meadow near Pass 10419, the saddle directly S of Polvadera Peak. A cool breeze was blowing out of the W, and it was sprinkling rain when Lupe arrived. At the edge of the meadow a big rock stood near several spruce trees.

At the **N end of Trail No. 108 near Pass 10419**. **Polvadera Peak** (L). Photo looks N.

Hold on, Loop! Let’s shelter under these trees, while I check the map.

What! Shelter? From the rain you mean? Here in the desert, SPHP, where you can just stumble through the mountains navigating by the shadows cast by trees basking in eternal sunshine?

Yes, smart-alecky Dingo! That’s precisely what I mean.

Trail No. 108 had ended a bit W of Pass 10419. As soon as the rain quit, Lupe went out into the meadow to look for it. The meadow extended clear up to the pass where she discovered another trail. This proved to be a section of the Rechuelos Trail. It went through a stretch of forest to another smaller meadow just E of the pass.

Meanwhile, SPHP had been keeping an eye toward the N looking for some sort of use trail going up Polvadera Peak’s S ridge, but hadn’t seen anything other than thick forest full of deadfall.

Just going to have to choose a spot, SPHP! Where do you want to start?

Hmm. Guess you’re right, Loopster. The forest wasn’t quite as thick on the W side of the pass, was it? Let’s head back over that way again.

W of Pass 10419, the situation didn’t really seem much better. Heading N, the Carolina Dog plunged into the forest. Mighty slow going at first, but the ground began sloping higher almost immediately.

Starting up Polvadera Peak. Photo looks N.

Fortunately, the deadfall situation soon improved. Didn’t take long to reach a distinctive large shark fin-shaped rock in a more open area. Looked like there was a meadow just a little farther up the slope, too!

A short climb brought Lupe to the lower edge of a steep meadow where big tufts of yellow grass nestled amid the branchless gray trunks of old blowdown. Higher up, the grass was greener near the edge of another forest above the meadow.

SPHP paused often during the climb to gasp for air. Chicoma Mountain, where Lupe had been only a few hours ago, was in sight off to the SSE.

Entering the **steep meadow above Shark Fin Rock**. Photo looks NNE.

At the upper end of the meadow. **Chicoma Mountain** (L). Photo looks S.

Continuing N after reaching the trees above the meadow, the slope of the terrain diminished considerably. This region was full of rocks and small diameter deadfall. Despite these obstacles, progress was good. Loopster eventually came to a big grassy meadow on the W side of the mountain. This meadow was steeper terrain again, but easier than hopping rocks and deadfall, so Lupe climbed through it never straying far from the edge of the forest.

Among the lichen-covered rocks and deadfall.

Entering the meadow on the **W side of Polvadera Peak’s S ridge**. Photo looks NNW.

**Chicoma Mountain** (L), **Peak 11110** (R), **HP10899** (foreground R). Photo looks S.

Above this upper W side meadow was more forest full of lichen-covered rocks. Steeper than the first such area, it featured less deadfall than the earlier one. The terrain soon began to level out.

5-21-21, 2:22 PM, Polvadera Peak – Once again, the Carolina Dog emerged from the forest. A small meadow filled the central and E portions of the flat region ahead. To the N, near the far end, stood a slender 5 foot tall cairn. This was it! The summit of Polvadera Peak (11,232 ft.)!

Muchos felicidades, Loopster! You made it! Polvadera Peak!

Didn’t think we were going to, did you, SPHP?

Hah, no! Not for a while there when we couldn’t find Trail No. 108! Thought we were sunk.

Well, here we are! How about going over to the cairn and taking a break? I’m tired! Got anything to eat in that pack?

Oh, of course!

**Top of Polvadera Peak**! Photo looks N.

The weather was deteriorating. Windy, cold, and gray. Lupe laid down by a spruce tree a few feet W of the cairn. Fetching a jar partially hidden among the rocks at the base of the cairn, SPHP sat down next to her. Loopster crunched some Taste of the Wild, then tried to doze while SPHP examined the jar’s contents.

Hmm. Not much. A pencil, a pen, and a sopping wet registry signed by Dave Langlois on 5-15-21, just 6 days ago. The rest of the registry was so wet that SPHP was afraid to turn the pages, fearing they would simply disintegrate.

Using a Kleenex, SPHP dried the jar’s interior. Placing the registry in a plastic bag, SPHP put it back in the jar. The pencil, pen, and a single dry piece of paper with Lupe’s name on it completed the collection, which was then returned to its hiding place in the cairn.

The registry wasn’t the cairn’s only item of interest. Two fancy stones were hidden in a cleft near the top. One was a small square block of white crystal. SPHP couldn’t get it out without damaging the cairn, and thus never really got a good look at the other stone stashed beneath it. What could be seen looked pointed like a big tooth, pink at one end.

Lupe’s summit hour was not what had been hoped for or expected only a short while ago. Like Chicoma Mountain, Polvadera Peak was another case where a ring of trees blocked the views in most directions. Even so, there were only a few trees along the E edge where there should have been a grand panorama, but the weather kept getting worse and worse. Every now and then Loop accompanied SPHP over to the E edge take a peek, but there was never anything to see.

Looking SE. Too foggy to see whatever was out there!

Most of the time Lupe simply sat with SPHP in the shelter of the spruce tree W of the cairn. More than 50 minutes after arriving, conditions were getting just plain miserable. A cold rain was falling as the wind roared out of the W. Snowflakes had been seen.

Come on, Loop! Let’s get out of here!

Puppy ho! time, SPHP?

Yeah! We’ve evidently overstayed our welcome!

Last moments on **Polvadera Peak**. Photo looks S.

Lupe left Polvadera Peak heading S through the forest, and soon reached the big open meadow on the W slope. Totally exposed to the fierce wind and frigid rain, the descent was no picnic, but this was the fastest, easiest way down.

In order to keep heading S, the American Dingo eventually had to enter the forest again. By then conditions were improving. Lupe discovered a use trail that brought her down to the meadow W of Pass 10419 directly across from the rock by the spruce trees at the N end of Trail No. 108.

The rest of the return was pleasant and uneventful. Near the end, SPHP began gathering Lupe treasures along USFS Road No. 144.D1.

Back at the RAV4, Lupe had a big meal, after which she promptly conked out on her pink blanket. The storm had passed, though, so SPHP invited her out for an evening sniff. Preferring the comfort of the RAV4, the Carolina Dog politely declined, returning to Dingo dreamland.

Long glowing beams of sunlight filtered through the trees. Alone in a chilly W breeze, SPHP continued gathering up Lupe treasures near the RAV4 until the sun collided with western ridges and sank from view. Chicoma Mountain and Polvadera Peak! What a day it had been!

On **Polvadera Peak**, Jemez Mountains, New Mexico 5-21-21

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