Moraine Lake – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

“No scene has ever given me an equal impression of inspiring solitude and rugged grandeur. I stood on a great stone of the moraine where, from a slight elevation, a magnificent view of the lake lay before me, and while studying the details of this unknown and unvisited spot, spent the happiest half-hour of my life.” – Walter Wilcox, 1905, six years after “discovering” Moraine Lake with Ross Peacock.

The morning of July 23, 2013 was totally overcast, almost foggy at Lake Louise Village. SPHP had decided to return for more exploration of the Moraine Lake area with Lupe, but the day didn’t look very promising. Moraine Lake was only 14 km away from the turn off the road to Lake Louise. Half-way there, Lupe and SPHP drove out of the gloom and into brilliant sunshine.

The inspiring solitude Walter Wilcox experienced at Moraine Lake in 1905 is long gone. Now crowds swarm over the rock pile at the E end of Moraine Lake just across the outlet stream. On summer days the large parking lot fills quickly with cars, and they then line the road for long distances. Buses bring more people. It was still early when Lupe and SPHP arrived. Early enough so there were still plenty of places to park in the parking lot, although they were going fast.

Lupe and SPHP took the very short Rock Loop trail leading up to the top of the “rock pile” from which Walter Wilcox had viewed the lake. Hordes of tourists were already there. Although the inspiring solitude is history, the rugged grandeur remains. The striking colorful beauty of the waters of Moraine Lake beyond which lay towering peaks of the Valley of Ten Peaks didn’t even look real. The whole scene looked like a fake impossibly beautiful postcard – but it was all real.

Lupe at Moraine Lake, Banff National Park 7-23-15

Moraine Lake from the E end of the Valley of Ten Peaks — Moraine Lake in the Valley of Ten Peaks from the Rock Pile

From L to R: Mt. Little, Mt. Tonsa, Mt. Perren, Mt. Allen, Mt. Tuzo, Deltaform Mountain. — From L to R: **Mt. Little** **(10,302 ft.)**, **Mt. Tonsa** **(10,020 ft.)**, **Mt. Perren** **(10,010 ft.)**, **Mt. Allen** **(10,860 ft.)**, **Mt. Tuzo** **(10,646 ft.)**, and **Deltaform Mountain** **(11,240 ft.)**.

After visiting the Rock Pile, Lupe and SPHP took the 1.1 km Moraine Lake Lakeshore Trail. The Lakeshore Trail goes along the forested shore on the right side of the photos above to the far end of the lake.

Mt. Fay and the Fay glacier from the Moraine Lake Lakeshore Trail. — **Mt. Fay (10,610 ft.)** and the Fay glacier from the Moraine Lake Lakeshore Trail.

Mt. Fay (L) and Mt. Little (R) from the Moraine Lake Lakeshore Trail.

On the previous day, Lupe and SPHP had gone up to see Eiffel Lake and the upper end of the Valley of Ten Peaks. However, Lupe and SPHP had not yet been on the 3 km long Consolation Lakes trail which starts just below the Rock Pile at Moraine Lake.

Due to recent grizzly bear activity in the area there was a requirement that people hiking all these trails stay in groups of at least 4 or face a $5,000 fine. Lupe and SPHP waited at the start of the Consolation Lakes trail for a likely group to join. Although far fewer people were interested in seeing Consolation Lakes than Moraine Lake, it didn’t take long before SPHP and Lupe were on the way as part of a large group of kids led by a couple of adults.

The trek to Consolation Lakes was through a forest virtually all the way, so there weren’t really any big views. The trail was broad and easy to follow. It gained elevation at a slow to moderate pace. Approaching Lower Consolation Lake, the forest gave way to a broad flat valley of meadows through which a stream flowed. The meadows ended at a large boulder field which had to be traversed to get to the shore of the lake. Lupe and SPHP went boulder-hopping and wound up sitting on a boulder at the water’s edge relaxing.

Lower Consolation Lake. Beyond the lake, the double peak near the center is Bident Mountain. It is separated by a large snowfield or hanging glacier from Quadra Mountain to its right. The green slope at the right side of the photo is part of Mt. Babel. — Lower Consolation Lake. Beyond the lake, the double peak near the center of the photo is Bident Mountain. It is separated by a large snowfield or hanging glacier from Quadra Mountain to its right. It’s easy to see the 4 peaks or platforms of Quadra Mountain. The green slope at the right side of the photo is part of **Mt. Babel** **(10,180 ft.)**.

Lupe and SPHP stayed there at the edge of Lower Consolation Lake for quite a long while. There were plenty of people around, but not nearly so many as back at Moraine Lake. Upper Consolation Lake, which is slightly smaller, was just out of sight beyond Lower Consolation Lake. Every 15 or 20 minutes or so the rumbling roar of a large snowfall could be heard from a valley to the right beyond Lower Consolation Lake. That valley was also out of sight, but seemed to be in front of and to the W (right) of Bident and Quadra Mountains.

Unfortunately, the trail did not extend past the boulder field at the N end of Lower Consolation Lake. SPHP thought it would be great fun for Lupe to explore over to Upper Consolation Lake, from which the source of the rumblings could probably be seen. (According to maps, likely snow falling off glaciers on Mt. Fay.) No one else seemed to be interested in heading over there, however. With the minimum 4 in a group rule in effect due to grizzly bears, Lupe and SPHP could not go over there alone.

The return to Moraine Lake was uneventful. After eating dinner at a picnic ground along the Bow Parkway and spending a little time at Lake Louise Village, Lupe and SPHP went to Lake Louise. SPHP sat on a bench with Lupe and wrote postcards. A low-flying helicopter flew directly overhead and got Lupe all excited. The helicopter hovered for a little while over the far end of the lake.

As the sun disappeared over the mountains and light was beginning to fade, Lupe and SPHP took the Lakeshore Trail to the far end of Lake Louise. The helicopter was long gone. No one was around. Lupe sniffed the air and trotted happily along the trail like she always does. The lake was smooth as glass in the stillness of the evening. By the time Lupe returned, Chateau Lake Louise was all lit up.

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It was 41°F and still totally overcast when Lupe and SPHP woke up in the G6. It had rained a little during the night, but by now the pavement was mostly dry. SPHP drove over to a picnic area near the N end of the Bow Parkway. No one else was around yet. While SPHP made a bit of breakfast, Lupe sniffed around. There wasn’t too much for her to do since the squirrels weren’t even up yet.

On the drive over to the picnic ground, SPHP had seen new snow high up on the mountains. Not so much to the E & S, but a fair amount to the N. The gray skies, mountaintops lost in the clouds, and new snow made the mountains look beautiful, but also remote and vaguely threatening.

After breakfast, Lupe and SPHP drove over to Lake Louise Village so SPHP could mail a postcard. While there, SPHP chanced to meet a 74 year old man from San Diego, CA. He was friendly and talkative. He was on a six month tour of the Canadian Rockies and the American West in a little motor home all by himself.

That sounded pretty awesome! SPHP enjoyed chatting with him. The man mentioned the hike to Sherbrooke Lake as a pretty nice one, and not too long. It sounded like a good idea to SPHP on a cool, drippy, overcast day when the mountains were hidden in the clouds anyway.

Sherbrooke Lake from the SE shore, Yoho National Park, British Columbia, Canada

Lupe and SPHP had actually planned to go to Sherbrooke Lake while in the Canadian Rockies back in 2013, but SPHP had not found the trailhead. This time, with the help of a tip from the guy from San Diego, it wasn’t a problem.

From Lake Louise, Lupe and SPHP headed N and then W on the Trans-Canada Hwy No. 1 past the turn off for the Icefields Parkway Hwy No. 93. After entering Yoho National Park, SPHP slowed down when Wapta Lake came into view on the S side of the highway. On the N side of the highway across from the lake is the Great Divide Lodge. SPHP turned into the big parking lot for the Great Divide Lodge. It turned out the trailhead wasn’t there, but SPHP knew it had to be close by.

Getting back on Trans-Canada Hwy No. 1 and continuing W just 0.25 mile from the Great Divide Lodge, SPHP saw another turnoff on the N side of the highway. There was no sign, but this was the correct turn for the Sherbrooke Lake trailhead. The road went N up a little hill, and then curved E to end at the trailhead parking lot, which wasn’t far from the highway at all. There were no other vehicles at the misty trailhead. Low gray clouds were dripping light rain sporadically when Lupe set out on the trail to Sherbrooke Lake.

The trail goes through the forest the entire 3.1 km to Sherbrooke Lake. Nearly all of the 165 m elevation gain occurs on the first part of the trail before it reaches a junction at 1.4 km with a trail to the lookout on Paget Peak (8,465 ft.). Ordinarily, SPHP would have been tempted to check out Paget Peak, but it seemed pointless to climb up into the fog. The last part of the trek to Sherbrooke Lake was a pleasant stroll through the dripping forest with little elevation change. Lupe was pretty damp, but in good spirits when she reached Sherbrooke Lake along its SE shore.

Under the overcast skies, Sherbrooke Lake was a light gray-green color. The air was calm, and the lake was smooth with hardly a ripple on its surface. The trail continued another 1.4 km along the E shore of the lake to the far N end.

Everything was sopping wet, as Lupe and SPHP headed N along the lakeshore trail. Little streams crossed the trail on their way down into the lake. Small birds were perched up in the trees near the water’s edge. Lupe barked enthusiastically at them. There were even a few squirrels around. Her barking echoed through the valley, but no one else was around to care.

At the far NE corner of Sherbrooke Lake, the trail went into some terrain covered with tall bushes as it started around the N shore. Here there were larger creeks flowing down into the lake. The trail started to fade quickly as it went into the wet bushes. There were rounded stones on the ground and muddy places. SPHP got the impression that this whole area Lupe was approaching was a big wash where a larger braided stream was depositing rocks and mud, slowly filling in the N end of the lake.

It was starting to rain more steadily. The trail was fading away as it headed into the tall wet bushes. The larger streams Lupe now encountered were difficult to cross without getting wet. It was becoming clear that continuing on meant both Lupe and SPHP would get totally soaked. Without adequate rain gear, it was time to turn around. Lupe was just as happy barking at birds on the way back S along the E shore of the lake, as she had been going N.

Looking back to the S from the NE corner of Sherbrooke Lake.

Lupe and SPHP had seen no one at all on the entire trip to Sherbrooke Lake, but on the way back a couple from Edmonton appeared at the junction with the trail to the Paget Peak lookout. They were very nice and SPHP chatted with them for a while.

The Edmonton couple were on their way to the N end of Sherbrooke Lake where Lupe had just been, except they were going to continue on beyond the lake. They said that the trail does not end at the N end of Sherbrooke Lake. Not too far N of the lake is a headwall. The trail climbs up and over the headwall to some fantastically beautiful territory (Niles Meadows) and goes on toward Niles Peak. Definitely worth checking out sometime, but sissy SPHP wanted to do it in better weather.

The Edmonton couple was justifiably excited about a trip to the Himalayas they were going to take in the relatively near future. They planned on spending time at a 14,000 foot elevation base camp near Mt. Everest, although they had no plans to climb Everest. The airfare there was the big expense. They could hire a Sherpa for $10 per day to haul all of their gear, cook, make camp, etc. SPHP made a mental note to cross Sherpa off the list of possible career opportunities.

Of more immediate interest to SPHP was another trek in the Canadian Rockies that they recommended. Across the Icefields Parkway Hwy No. 93 from the Crowfoot Glacier near Bow Lake is the Helen Lake trailhead. From Helen Lake it is possible to climb up to the top of Cirque Peak where there are fabulous views of the Wapta Icefield, Bow Lake and Bow Glacier Falls. Two days later Lupe and SPHP actually climbed Cirque Peak. The experience was everything the couple from Edmonton promised it would be and more!

Just before 1:00 PM, a very soggy Lupe was back at the trailhead. Lupe hopped right into the G6 and began licking herself dry. She’d had a great time on the trail to Sherbrooke Lake. It really had been an enjoyable outing and had only taken a few hours. Sometime in the future Lupe and SPHP hope to return to see Niles Meadows.

Lupe’s 2014 visit to Sherbrooke Lake was over. It rained for a while. Lupe and SPHP took a nap. By the time SPHP woke up, the rain had tapered off. Lupe and SPHP returned to Lake Louise Village. There was still time left in the day to do something else. Lupe and SPHP headed for Moraine Lake for a walk along the lakeshore trail.