Banff National Park – Page 9 – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Banff, Alberta, Canada (7-20-13)

After Lupe’s success at reaching a viewpoint over Sky Pilot Lake in the Beartooth Mountains of southern Montana and subsequent somewhat exciting retreat during a thunderstorm on 7-17-13, SPHP thought it was about time for Lupe to move on to the next part of Lupe’s 2013 Dingo Vacation. It was time for Lupe to see a new country – beautiful Canada! So the plan on 7-18-13 was to get everything organized, packed up, and head out for Canada.

It didn’t happen. Mick from the motorhome parked near Lupe’s “tiny house” (tent) came over in the morning. He was very friendly and chatty. He had lots of interesting and amusing tales from his wild partying days years ago in the music industry in England. As the day wore on, Mick offered free beer. The first beer pretty much put an end to any ambitions SPHP had for the day. After the 15.5 hour adventure to Sky Pilot Lake the previous day, both Lupe and SPHP were perfectly content to spend the entire day lounging around at the beautiful campsite on the Clark’s Fork of the Yellowstone River hanging out with Mick.

While Mick clearly missed the good old days back in England, he was pretty high on America, too. He told about how his wife had put $17,000 into some tech stock after the stock market crash in late 2008 or early 2009. Mick had been a bit nervous about it, but that stock was now worth over $400,000. After that, he no longer questions his wife’s investment decisions. She is free to invest as she pleases. Mick was quite a character and regaled SPHP with one tale after another like this. After a few beers, it all became somewhat fuzzy, but very amusing nonetheless.

The next morning found Lupe and SPHP still camped at the Clark’s Fork of the Yellowstone River. Both Lupe and SPHP felt way more energetic after the very relaxing prior day spent with Mick. After a couple of hours spent cleaning, writing and packing up; it was time to bid a fond farewell to Pilot and Index Peaks and the Clark’s Fork of the Yellowstone River. Mick was up and bid Lupe and SPHP bon voyage. Lupe and SPHP then hopped in the G6 and headed out over spectacular Beartooth Pass.

The rest of 7-19-13 was spent on a very pleasant drive heading N across central Montana. Lupe had loads of chances to bark enthusiastically at cows, horses and haystacks along the way. After various stops along the way, evening came. Lupe and SPHP spent the night in the G6 at a rest stop along I-15 N of Dutton, Montana.

At 8:00 AM on 7-20-13, Lupe entered Canada for the first time. SPHP had all the proper documentation along for Lupe to enter Canada, but the border agent didn’t even ask for any of it. At Lethbridge, Lupe and SPHP went for a walk in a park along the Oldman River. Then it was back into the G6 and on to the fabulous Canadian Rockies!

Lupe reached Banff a little after mid-afternoon. Banff is a very busy tourist town on the Bow River in the Canadian Rockies. Normally SPHP doesn’t like busy places, but Banff is an exception – Banff is great! The scenery is gorgeous and there are lots of things to see and do in Banff, although many are not for American Dingoes. SPHP was thrilled to be back in Banff again. Lupe was here for the very first time. It was time for a walk!

Lupe and SPHP found the cemetery near the Bow River where Bill Peyto is buried. Naturally, Lupe couldn’t go in, so she continued on to cross a nice, new (since SPHP was last there) footbridge across the Bow River. There were lots of people around and plenty of other doggies to sniff with. Lupe followed a trail downstream along the Bow River until coming to a place where she had to turn back, because dingoes weren’t allowed any further.

Lupe along the Bow River just downstream of Banff, Canada. The new footbridge across the river is visible upstream.

Cascade Mountain from near the footbridge over the Bow River in Banff, Canada. — **Cascade Mountain (9,836 ft.)** from near the footbridge over the Bow River in Banff, Canada.

Banff Avenue bridge over the Bow River, Banff, Canada

Lupe and SPHP took various walks along the Bow River and in downtown Banff. Lupe was rather bewildered and overwhelmed at first by the throngs of tourists, but soon learned to enjoy crossing the street as part of the crowd whenever the light changed. She also discovered there were plenty of opportunities for brief encounters with all kinds of other dogs. On the grounds of the Whyte Museum of the Rockies, Lupe saw one of Bill Peyto’s original rustic cabins.

Lupe at one of Bill Peyto's cabins on the grounds of the Whyte Museum of the Rockies. Bill Peyto was a famous outfitter and guide based in Banff in the late 1800's. — Lupe at one of Bill Peyto’s cabins on the grounds of the Whyte Museum of the Rockies. **Bill Peyto** was a famous outfitter and guide based in Banff in the late 1800’s.

In the evening, SPHP ate at a café with some outdoor tables. Lupe very much enjoyed sharing SPHP’s buffalo burger and milkshake. Lupe and SPHP then went for another walk up and down both sides of Banff Avenue (main street). This was Lupe’s first ever Pretty Puppy Parade, which has become a tradition every evening Lupe is in Banff ever since. By now Lupe was getting used to the crowds and even seemed to be enjoying herself. She stared curiously and hopefully into open shop doors, sniffed with other doggies, and allowed friendly tourists to pet her.

Looking N across Banff Avenue bridge towards downtown and Cascade Mountain.

The next day, Lupe and SPHP woke up as the sky was just starting to get light. Lupe found $10 Canadian on the sidewalk near the Bow River. Lupe and SPHP drove down to Bow River Falls. While Lupe was there, a raft full of people was launching a short distance down the river from the falls. Someone dressed in Scottish garb was playing bagpipes from a hill they floated past shortly after launch.

Bow River Falls is located within walking distance downstream of Banff.

Bagpiper on the Bow River. — Bagpiper along the Bow River.

Bow River downstream of Bow River Falls 7-21-13

Lupe and SPHP went up to the famous Banff Springs Hotel for a look around. The Banff Springs Hotel was first opened in 1888, and is one of Canada’s grand railway hotels. It is built in Scottish Baronial style and is often referred to as a castle. Although Dingoes can stay at the Banff Springs Hotel, Lupe didn’t get to stay there. SPHP’s spouse, unlike Mick’s spouse, has never invested $17,000 and turned it into $400,000, although SPHP would have been eternally grateful.

Looking E from a veranda at the Banff Springs Hotel.

Cascade Mountain from Banff Springs Hotel.

Lupe was pretty certain the Banff Springs Hotel would meet Carolina Dog standards, but cheapskate SPHP didn't book her a room. — Lupe was pretty certain the Banff Springs Hotel would meet Carolina Dog standards, but cheapskate SPHP didn’t book her a room.

This view of the Banff Springs Hotel is from Surprise Point on the opposite side of the Bow River.

SPHP started thinking that maybe Lupe could ride the Sulphur Mountain gondola. Sulphur Mountain has a wonderful commanding view of Banff and the Bow River Valley. The gondola ride to the top is a very popular attraction. SPHP drove over there, but it was a madhouse. The giant parking lot was full and busloads of more people were arriving all the time. When SPHP found out it was $35.00 per ticket to ride the gondola, SPHP didn’t even bother to ask if Lupe could go. SPHP seemed to be the only cheapskate in Canada, though. People were lined up in droves to pay it.

Instead, SPHP took Lupe to see the flower gardens at the Parks Administration Building located just S of the Bow River from downtown at the end of Banff Avenue. Lupe had a dull time of it, since signs there said dingoes weren’t allowed on the grounds. SPHP snapped a few photos and then it was already time for lunch. After lunch, Lupe and SPHP took another stroll downtown.

Parks Administration Building, Banff, Canada. There are extensive flower gardens on the grounds.

Oh, nice... no thrilling gondola ride up Sulphur Mountain and now no dingoes allowed to even sniff the flowers... you sure know how to show a dingo a good time, SPHP! — Oh, nice… no thrilling gondola ride up Sulphur Mountain and now no dingoes allowed to even sniff the flowers… you sure know how to show a dingo a good time, SPHP!

Although it was great to be in Banff, SPHP was ready to be done with crowds. There were many more things for people to do in Banff, but not that many for American Dingoes and Carolina Dogs. SPHP was satisfied that Lupe had had a chance to experience Banff. It had been 4 days now since the big adventure to Sky Pilot Lake in the Beartooths. It was time to get out of town and go explore some mountain trails! Lupe was ready for some action! So, early on the afternoon of 7-21-13, Lupe and SPHP left beautiful Banff heading W in the G6 on Trans-Canada Hwy No. 1 looking for adventure.

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Sherbrooke Lake, Yoho National Park, British Columbia, Canada (7-25-14)

It was 41°F and still totally overcast when Lupe and SPHP woke up in the G6. It had rained a little during the night, but by now the pavement was mostly dry. SPHP drove over to a picnic area near the N end of the Bow Parkway. No one else was around yet. While SPHP made a bit of breakfast, Lupe sniffed around. There wasn’t too much for her to do since the squirrels weren’t even up yet.

On the drive over to the picnic ground, SPHP had seen new snow high up on the mountains. Not so much to the E & S, but a fair amount to the N. The gray skies, mountaintops lost in the clouds, and new snow made the mountains look beautiful, but also remote and vaguely threatening.

After breakfast, Lupe and SPHP drove over to Lake Louise Village so SPHP could mail a postcard. While there, SPHP chanced to meet a 74 year old man from San Diego, CA. He was friendly and talkative. He was on a six month tour of the Canadian Rockies and the American West in a little motor home all by himself.

That sounded pretty awesome! SPHP enjoyed chatting with him. The man mentioned the hike to Sherbrooke Lake as a pretty nice one, and not too long. It sounded like a good idea to SPHP on a cool, drippy, overcast day when the mountains were hidden in the clouds anyway.

Sherbrooke Lake from the SE shore, Yoho National Park, British Columbia, Canada

Lupe and SPHP had actually planned to go to Sherbrooke Lake while in the Canadian Rockies back in 2013, but SPHP had not found the trailhead. This time, with the help of a tip from the guy from San Diego, it wasn’t a problem.

From Lake Louise, Lupe and SPHP headed N and then W on the Trans-Canada Hwy No. 1 past the turn off for the Icefields Parkway Hwy No. 93. After entering Yoho National Park, SPHP slowed down when Wapta Lake came into view on the S side of the highway. On the N side of the highway across from the lake is the Great Divide Lodge. SPHP turned into the big parking lot for the Great Divide Lodge. It turned out the trailhead wasn’t there, but SPHP knew it had to be close by.

Getting back on Trans-Canada Hwy No. 1 and continuing W just 0.25 mile from the Great Divide Lodge, SPHP saw another turnoff on the N side of the highway. There was no sign, but this was the correct turn for the Sherbrooke Lake trailhead. The road went N up a little hill, and then curved E to end at the trailhead parking lot, which wasn’t far from the highway at all. There were no other vehicles at the misty trailhead. Low gray clouds were dripping light rain sporadically when Lupe set out on the trail to Sherbrooke Lake.

The trail goes through the forest the entire 3.1 km to Sherbrooke Lake. Nearly all of the 165 m elevation gain occurs on the first part of the trail before it reaches a junction at 1.4 km with a trail to the lookout on Paget Peak (8,465 ft.). Ordinarily, SPHP would have been tempted to check out Paget Peak, but it seemed pointless to climb up into the fog. The last part of the trek to Sherbrooke Lake was a pleasant stroll through the dripping forest with little elevation change. Lupe was pretty damp, but in good spirits when she reached Sherbrooke Lake along its SE shore.

Under the overcast skies, Sherbrooke Lake was a light gray-green color. The air was calm, and the lake was smooth with hardly a ripple on its surface. The trail continued another 1.4 km along the E shore of the lake to the far N end.

Everything was sopping wet, as Lupe and SPHP headed N along the lakeshore trail. Little streams crossed the trail on their way down into the lake. Small birds were perched up in the trees near the water’s edge. Lupe barked enthusiastically at them. There were even a few squirrels around. Her barking echoed through the valley, but no one else was around to care.

At the far NE corner of Sherbrooke Lake, the trail went into some terrain covered with tall bushes as it started around the N shore. Here there were larger creeks flowing down into the lake. The trail started to fade quickly as it went into the wet bushes. There were rounded stones on the ground and muddy places. SPHP got the impression that this whole area Lupe was approaching was a big wash where a larger braided stream was depositing rocks and mud, slowly filling in the N end of the lake.

It was starting to rain more steadily. The trail was fading away as it headed into the tall wet bushes. The larger streams Lupe now encountered were difficult to cross without getting wet. It was becoming clear that continuing on meant both Lupe and SPHP would get totally soaked. Without adequate rain gear, it was time to turn around. Lupe was just as happy barking at birds on the way back S along the E shore of the lake, as she had been going N.

Looking back to the S from the NE corner of Sherbrooke Lake.

Lupe and SPHP had seen no one at all on the entire trip to Sherbrooke Lake, but on the way back a couple from Edmonton appeared at the junction with the trail to the Paget Peak lookout. They were very nice and SPHP chatted with them for a while.

The Edmonton couple were on their way to the N end of Sherbrooke Lake where Lupe had just been, except they were going to continue on beyond the lake. They said that the trail does not end at the N end of Sherbrooke Lake. Not too far N of the lake is a headwall. The trail climbs up and over the headwall to some fantastically beautiful territory (Niles Meadows) and goes on toward Niles Peak. Definitely worth checking out sometime, but sissy SPHP wanted to do it in better weather.

The Edmonton couple was justifiably excited about a trip to the Himalayas they were going to take in the relatively near future. They planned on spending time at a 14,000 foot elevation base camp near Mt. Everest, although they had no plans to climb Everest. The airfare there was the big expense. They could hire a Sherpa for $10 per day to haul all of their gear, cook, make camp, etc. SPHP made a mental note to cross Sherpa off the list of possible career opportunities.

Of more immediate interest to SPHP was another trek in the Canadian Rockies that they recommended. Across the Icefields Parkway Hwy No. 93 from the Crowfoot Glacier near Bow Lake is the Helen Lake trailhead. From Helen Lake it is possible to climb up to the top of Cirque Peak where there are fabulous views of the Wapta Icefield, Bow Lake and Bow Glacier Falls. Two days later Lupe and SPHP actually climbed Cirque Peak. The experience was everything the couple from Edmonton promised it would be and more!

Just before 1:00 PM, a very soggy Lupe was back at the trailhead. Lupe hopped right into the G6 and began licking herself dry. She’d had a great time on the trail to Sherbrooke Lake. It really had been an enjoyable outing and had only taken a few hours. Sometime in the future Lupe and SPHP hope to return to see Niles Meadows.

Lupe’s 2014 visit to Sherbrooke Lake was over. It rained for a while. Lupe and SPHP took a nap. By the time SPHP woke up, the rain had tapered off. Lupe and SPHP returned to Lake Louise Village. There was still time left in the day to do something else. Lupe and SPHP headed for Moraine Lake for a walk along the lakeshore trail.