Canadian Rockies – Page 7 – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

5:30 AM. Daylight already. Lupe was wide awake. Soon SPHP was, too. It was August 1, 2013, Day 23 of Lupe’s 2013 Dingo Vacation to the Beartooths & Canada. This was to be Lupe’s last full day in Canada. Yesterday she had already started heading S from the Mount Robson area to begin the trip back home. Before leaving Canada, Lupe and SPHP still had a few places to go and things to see. It was good to be up early!

Shortly after 6:00 AM, SPHP was parking the G6 at the Peyto Lake parking lot near Bow Pass on the Icefields Parkway Highway No. 93. Although the Peyto Lake observation deck at the end of a short paved path is a very popular tourist destination, no one else was around this early in the day. The G6 was the only vehicle in the parking lot. It wouldn’t stay that way for very long. Lupe and SPHP took the short path to see Peyto Lake.

Peyto Lake in Banff National Park from the observation deck at Bow Pass. Mountains along the Mistaya River valley stretch out as far as the eye can see. Peyto Lake is named after **Ebenezer “Wild Bill” Peyto**, a legendary early hunter, trapper, prospector, guide & outfitter in the Canadian Rockies. Photo looks NW.

There used to be a lookout tower at Bow Summit. After admiring the view of Peyto Lake and the Mistaya River valley from the observation deck, Lupe and SPHP went in search of the old fire lookout service road. SPHP had brought along the following note summarizing instructions on how to get to Bow Summit from research done online:

“From the Peyto Lake overlook, take the right hand of two paved trails leading uphill. After 100 meters, there will be a 3 way junction at an interpretive sign. Continue on the middle branch angling uphill to the left of the sign (this is part of the upper nature trail). In a few minutes, the paved nature trail will continue on to the right, but continue straight on the old fire lookout service road.”

Soon Lupe was trotting happily on up the road to the old fire lookout. It was a gorgeous morning with views to match. After gaining 760 feet of elevation, Lupe and SPHP reached the end of the road at Bow Summit. There were wonderful views to the N back toward the Mistaya River valley and Waterfowl Lakes. The best views to the S toward Bow Lake and beyond were a little farther on.

Mountains along the Mistaya River valley, Banff National Park, Alberta, Canada from Bow Summit.

Looking NNW from Bow Summit at mountains along the Mistaya River valley.

The views at Bow Summit were wonderful, amazing and incredible. It was hard not to feel sad that Lupe had to leave Canada. The views weren’t the only thing that were amazing and incredible, though. Amazing and incredible swarms of not-so-wonderful mosquitoes started plaguing Lupe and SPHP within just a minute or two of arriving at Bow Summit.

Although Lupe doesn’t like strong winds, a good stiff breeze would have been welcome. As it was, Lupe and SPHP tired very quickly of serving as local blood banks. The mosquitoes had been only a minor annoyance while moving on the way up, but they were intolerable staying put in any one place. Definitely time to be moving on. Two hours after leaving the G6, Lupe and SPHP were back at the now bustling Peyto Lake parking lot.

After Bow Summit, Lupe went on one more outing in the Canadian Rockies. Near the high point on Hwy 93 heading W toward Kootenay National Park in British Columbia, there was a trailhead for Boom Lake. The trail was only 5.1 km to Boom Lake, which was perfect for the limited time Lupe had to spend.

At the trailhead parking lot, Lupe met a skinny 7 month old black lab puppy named Geeko. Lupe and Geeko played with each other in the parking lot, and each time they met along the trail.

SPHP met a Canadian biologist from Winnipeg along the way. When SPHP learned the biologist had hiked more than 2,000 km of trails in the Canadian Rockies, SPHP asked for recommendations on day hikes. The biologist recommended a trail quite near by, which goes to the Stanley Glacier. Lupe didn’t have time to check it out this trip, but SPHP hopes some day she will.

By the time Lupe and SPHP reached Boom Lake, it was raining and foggy. It looked like a beautiful spot, but Lupe would have to return under better conditions to explore further and get some photos worthy of the area. Lupe had fun, but she was a rather soggy doggie by the time she completed the trek back to the G6.

Lupe and SPHP enjoyed a wonderful drive through scenic Kootenay National Park, but made no more stops until reaching Radium Hot Springs. Lupe had to wait in the G6 at Radium Hot Springs, while SPHP went in to get cleaned up and bask in the warm mineral waters.

After so many days exploring the Canadian Rockies, Lupe was fine with spending a little time chillin' in the G6 while it rained outside and SPHP went to the Radium Hot Springs. — After so many days exploring the Canadian Rockies, Lupe was fine with spending a little time chillin’ in the G6 while it rained outside and SPHP went to the Radium Hot Springs.

SPHP returned from the Radium Hot Springs clean and refreshed. Cleanliness always boosts SPHP’s spirits, especially while traveling. It was time to get serious about making some progress getting home! Lupe was in for a good time – after all, the cows and horses in Montana alone were going to provide at least 500 miles of frenzied Dingo barking pleasure!

Links:

Peyto Lake & Lupe’s Search for the Peyto Glacier (7-26-13)

Bow Lake & The Trail to Bow Glacier Falls (7-25-13)

Book Review: Ain’t it Hell, Bill Peyto’s Mountain Journal

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s 2013 Beartooths & Canadian Rockies Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Early on the morning of 7-31-13, the day after Lupe’s explorations up the glorious Berg Lake Trail to see Mt. Robson and Berg Lake, Lupe and SPHP headed S in the G6 back towards Jasper. It was the 23rd Day of Lupe’s 2013 Dingo Vacation, and time to start the long drive back home. There wasn’t any huge rush though – there was still time for a few more great Dingo adventures along the way!

From Jasper, Lupe and SPHP continued S along the beautiful Icefields Parkway Hwy 93. SPHP stopped the G6 at a pullout a few km before reaching the Icefields Centre across from the Athabasca Glacier. The pullout provided an excellent spot to admire the upper Sunwapta River Valley, and a portion of the Columbia Icefield beyond. At this point, the Sunwapta River is just a braided stream bearing little resemblance to the mighty river it becomes further N by the time it roars over Sunwapta Falls.

The Sunwapta River Valley & the Columbia Icefield from the Icefields Parkway Hwy 93.

Lupe wasn't concentrating much on the view from the pullout along the highway. Instead she seemed plenty happy just hiding out in the lush foliage near the road. — Lupe wasn’t concentrating much on the view from the pullout along the highway. Instead she seemed plenty happy just hiding out in the lush foliage near the road.

While still in the area of the Columbia Icefield, SPHP thought it would be a good idea for Lupe to check out the Wilcox Pass Trail before leaving Jasper National Park. Just a few km S of the Icefields Centre across from the Athabasca Glacier is a short gravel road on the E side of the Icefields Parkway Hwy 93 which goes to the Wilcox Creek Campground. The Wilcox Pass Trailhead is located along this gravel road immediately before the road reaches the campground.

Wilcox Pass is only a 4 km hike from the trailhead, but until nearing the pass, most of the way the trail climbs pretty steeply. It starts off winding around through a forest, but the forest thins out about the time the trail comes around a bend and reaches the first stunning views of the Athabasca Glacier and surrounding mountains.

The Athabasca Glacier comes into view along the Wilcox Pass Trail.

The Dome Glacier between Snow Dome and Mt. Kitchener from the Wilcox Pass Trail. — The Dome Glacier (C) between **Snow Dome** **(11,483 ft.)** (L) and **Mt. Kitchener** **(11,417 ft.)** (R) from the Wilcox Pass Trail.

Mt. Athabasca (L), Mt. Andromeda (C) and the Athabasca Glacier (R)from the Wilcox Pass Trail. — **Mt. Athabasca** **(11, 453 ft.)** (L), **Mt. Andromeda** **(11,286 ft.)** (C) and the Athabasca Glacier (R) from the Wilcox Pass Trail.

There were lots of people on the trail. It was easy to understand why. The already amazing views became better and better as the trail continued climbing above the remaining forest. Eventually the trail reached the high point of Wilcox Pass, which proved to be at a very broad, gently sloping open area of heather dotted with small ponds and streams.

The trail continued NNW on over the pass to the E of Mount Wilcox, but the best views were clearly going to be towards the SW in the direction of the Athabasca Glacier and surrounding peaks. Lupe and SPHP left the pass heading that direction. Lupe loved the open high ground along the way. Pretty soon, Lupe and SPHP arrived at the edge of a ridge situated 1,400 feet above and just NE of the Icefields Center.

The views of the Athabasca Glacier and surrounding snow-covered peaks from Lupe’s final perch were astonishing. Photos barely begin to convey the sense of height, space and frozen splendor inspired by the icy panoramic sweep of the towering mountains and gleaming white glaciers that met Lupe’s gaze from that high ridge. More of the dazzling Columbia Icefield shone brilliantly above the glaciers than Lupe and SPHP had ever seen before, yet even that was still just a tiny part of the whole. In an instant, the Wilcox Pass Trail became Lupe and SPHP’s favorite half-day hike in the Canadian Rockies or anywhere else.

Lupe at the viewpoint SW of Wilcox Pass.

Mount Athabasca from the ridge SW of Wilcox Pass. — **Mount Athabasca** **(11,453 ft.)** from the ridge SW of Wilcox Pass.

Mount Andromeda & the Athabasca Glacier — **Mount Andromeda** **(11,286 ft.)** & the Athabasca Glacier

This shot shows the Icefields Centre and Icefields Parkway Hwy 93 both 1,400 feet below the ridge. — This shot shows the **Icefields Centre** and Icefields Parkway Hwy 93 both 1,400 feet below the ridge.

Lupe and SPHP stayed at the edge of the ridge SW of Wilcox Pass for a long time. It seemed like a shame to ever leave, but time waits for no Dingo, nor even any Carolina Dogs. Fortunately Carolina Dogs are immensely practical. Lupe was in high spirits on the return trip from the SW ridge back across the heather to the Wilcox Pass Trail, and on down to the G6.

A last look at Snow Dome (L) and Mt. Kitchener (R) on the way down the Wilcox Pass Trail. — A last look at Snow Dome (L) and Mt. Kitchener (R) from near the Icefields Parkway Hwy 93.

Lupe and SPHP resumed the drive heading S over Sunwapta Pass, the border between Jasper and Banff National Parks. The Wilcox Pass Trail had been so wonderful, SPHP had already started thinking about what else Lupe could still do this day. So, just 5.5 miles S of the pass, SPHP turned off the Icefields Parkway Hwy 93 to the Nigel Creek trailhead. The map at the trailhead showed that it was 7 km up to Nigel Pass. The first part of the trail was actually a continuation of the gravel road to the trailhead. Lupe and SPHP set off for Nigel Pass.

Lupe was quite ready for another adventure, but after trudging up the road 0.5 mile or so, SPHP realized it wasn’t really going to happen. After the 42 km round trip up to Berg Lake and Mt. Robson the previous day, and hardly a break after the climb up to Wilcox Pass, SPHP didn’t really have the steam left to continue – at least, not for a little while. It was time to rest. Lupe was surely puzzled when SPHP turned around and led her back to the G6. The beautiful drive S on the Icefields Parkway resumed.

Near the Waterfowl Lakes campground, SPHP parked the G6 again. SPHP still wanted to do something easy that Lupe would like. After a bit to eat, Lupe and SPHP walked through the campground and took the bridge over the lovely Mistaya River. Lupe followed the same trail she had just a few days before to Chephren and Cirque Lakes.

This trail gains very little elevation while proceeding through a dense forest. With the campground closed for the summer for repairs to the flood-damaged water system, no one was around. The trail was abandoned. It was a pleasant, easy stroll through the very quiet forest. At least, it had been quiet until an American Dingo arrived. Lupe found lots of squirrels to bark at along the way. Her excitement rang through the forest. She was having a most excellent time.

This time, the junction where the trail divides to go to either Chephren or Cirque Lake was as far as Lupe and SPHP went before turning around. Gradually twilight was coming on. The squirrels started hitting the hay. Slowly the darkening forest grew quiet again. By 10:00 PM, Lupe was back snoozing peacefully in the G6.

Did she dream about the scenic wonders of Wilcox Pass, or the squirrels in the forest? SPHP bet on the squirrels.

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

Wilcox Pass Trail, Jasper National Park, Canada (7-29-14)

Nigel Pass & Panther Falls, Banff National Park, Canada (7-31-14)

Tag: Canadian Rockies

Peyto Lake & Bow Summit, Banff National Park, Alberta, Canada (8-1-13)

Wilcox Pass Trail, Jasper National Park, Canada (7-31-13)