Carolina Dog – Page 6 – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 344 – Deerfield Lake Loop Trail No. 40L with Poppy, HV & LV, Plus Peak 7100, Peak 7159 & Green Mountain (4-27-25)

9:00 AM, 56ºF – The Gold Run trailhead was completely empty when SPHP pulled in and parked the RAV4. Anticipating great things, the Carolina Dog leapt out.

Where’s Poppy, SPHP?

We’re early. She’ll be along in a bit, Loop. Let’s have a look at the lake.

Deerfield Lake was smooth as glass when Lupe leapt onto a weathered section of a big tree trunk near a mucky shore.

**Deerfield Reservoir**. Photo looks NNW.

What a beautiful morning, SPHP! It’s going to be a great day!

Yeah, I think it’s a good thing we delayed this outing with Poppy, Loopster. Yesterday would have been cold and gloomy.

While waiting for Poppy, SPHP walked from the trailhead back out to Deerfield Road. Lupe helped herself to a drink from Gold Run creek. The little stream actually had pretty decent flow this time of year.

Enjoying **Gold Run creek**. Photo looks NNE.

SPHP gathered Lupe treasures from the tall, dead grass on the way back to the trailhead. Before the American Dingo even managed to get there, sure enough, Poppy, HV & LV arrived. Minutes later, Lupe and Poppy were exchanging gifts of Golden Rewards treats. The day was certainly getting off to a good start!

The Gold Run trailhead was merely an easily recognized rendezvous point. Since the Deerfield Reservoir dam was the main objective for the outing with Poppy, SPHP recommended starting a bit closer, from along the road leading to the Dutchman campground. A few minutes spent repositioning the vehicles, and the adventure was ready to begin!

At the **starting point** near the road to the Dutchman campground. Photo looks S.

Intrepid adventurers **Lupe**, **Rollie (LV)**, **Dawnette (HV)**, and **Poppy** ready to set out! Photo looks N.

9:46 AM – Deerfield Lake Loop Trail No. 40L was only a short distance from where the cars were parked. Picking it up, the trail began with an easy, gradual descent along the old abandoned roadbed of USFS Road No. 607.1B. Seldom getting an opportunity to be off-leash like this, Poppy was overjoyed! She zoomed ahead, exploring everything in her path. Fortunately, Poppy remembered to return every now and then in order to check on the progress of all the slowpokes.

Picking up **Deerfield Lake Loop Trail No. 40L**. Photo looks ENE.

On **USFS Road No. 607.1B**. Photo looks NE.

As the road wound down a long valley, LV spotted a huge nest situated at the very top of a dead tree way up on a steep hillside. A large bird with a white head was perched on it. When the bird flew off, it appeared to be an osprey, although it was too far away to be completely certain.

It had been a year since Lupe’s last adventure with Poppy, so SPHP had a lot to catch up on with LV and HV. Rollie mentioned with enthusiasm an e-bike he enjoyed riding on the Mickelson Trail. Dawnette was more into long walks with Poppy. She’d also renamed her Picnicking In The Black Hills Facebook page. It’s now Here & There in the Black Hills.

Time flew. Before long, Poppy had led everyone to the junction with Deerfield Trail No. 40, which heads E for 23 miles to another junction with the 111 mile long Centennial Trail No. 89.

At the junction of **Deerfield Lake Loop Trail No. 40L** and **Deerfield Trail No. 40**. Photo looks NNW.

It wasn’t much farther to easily rock-hopped Dutchman Creek. Beyond it, the valley widened out. Crossing a field full of ancient cow pies, a gate was ahead. Castle Creek and USFS Road No. 370 were on the other side.

Rock-hopping **Dutchman Creek**. Photo looks NW.

**Rollie** and **Lupe** near the gate. Photo looks NW.

**Castle Creek** (L), **USFS Road No. 370** (R). Photo looks NW.

Following No. 370 upstream, the road soon made a big curve SW, and ended at the base of the Deerfield Reservoir dam. Under tremendous pressure, Castle Creek roared out of a couple of large pipes.

At the **base of the dam**. Photo looks WSW.

Backtracking a bit, a side road made a single big switchback up to the W end of the dam. Poppy, LV, and HV had never been here before, so this view of Deerfield Lake was an unfamiliar one for them. The best view was from the E end of the dam, where more of the lake was in sight.

**Poppy**, **Rollie**, **Lupe** & **Dawnette** at the **E end of the dam**. Photo looks W.

Since the dam was this hike’s primary objective, a short rest break was in order. Going partway down a grassy slope, a spot near the shade of a few of pines served the purpose. Dawnette offered peppered beef jerky, and strawberry and blueberry fig bars as snacks. While SPHP enjoyed the tasty fig bars, Lupe went crazy for the jerky.

**Deerfield Lake** and **dam** from the rest spot. Photo looks WNW.

Still a beautiful day, warm and sunny, with only a few scattered clouds around. While relaxing on the grassy slope, one cloud stood out. Off to the NNE, a lone cumulus cloud was starting to show some development. Not very big yet, the little wannabe thunderhead seemed out of place.

The **odd little cumulus cloud** (R). Photo looks NNE.

11:23 AM – After a pleasant break, it was time to move on. The question was, did LV and HV want to go any farther, or were they ready to head back? Poppy didn’t have to be polled, she was having a grand time, and would have gone clear around the lake with Lupe.

Discussing the next objective. **Flag Mountain** (R) in the distance. Photo looks NW.

Rollie and Dawnette were both willing to keep going. A small bay NW of the dam seemed like a reasonable objective. After recrossing the dam, HV suggested a shortcut back to Deerfield Lake Loop Trail No. 40L along a faint road that headed WNW up into the pines. This was a terrific idea, avoiding the elevation loss that would have otherwise been necessary going back down to pick up the trail again from below the dam.

**USFS Road No. 370** down in the **Castle Creek valley**. Photo looks ENE.

While among the pines, SPHP noticed a survey benchmark sitting right in the middle of the road. Curving N, the road faded away as it climbed at an easy pace to a meadow above the pines. Crocuses were springing up among the grass here. Other varieties of wildflowers were enjoying the spring sunshine, too.

One of the many **crocuses** or **pasque flowers** springing up from the prairie.

Dawnette knew what these **yellow wildflowers** were, but SPHP has since forgotten.

From the meadow, a barbed wire fence was visible with a gate in it off to the NE, where Trail No. 40L went through it. Beyond the gate, the trail divided into a couple of routes on the way down to Deerfield Reservoir’s N bay. South Castle Rock (6,848 ft.), Castle Rock (6,783 ft.), and Nipple Butte (6,820 ft.) were all in view off to the NW during the first part of this descent.

**South Castle Rock** (L of Center), **Castle Rock** (Center), and **Nipple Butte** (far R). Photo looks NW.

Once down to the bay, Deerfield Lake Loop Trail No. 40L ran N along the E shore. Several Canadian geese were swimming in the bay. They didn’t seem terribly concerned about the intrusion.

3 of the 6 **Canadian geese** in the area.

It wasn’t far to the N end of the bay where a small stream trickled into it. Of course, the 11 mile long loop trail continued all the way around the lake from here, but LV and HV were satisfied. This was far enough.

Heading for the **N end of the bay**. Photo looks NNW.

The whole gang at the **turnaround point**. Photo looks S.

Sticking with Deerfield Lake Loop Trail No. 40L during the entire return, there was one more scenic highlight along the part of the trail that had been skipped earlier. The edge of a steep slope reached just before the descent to USFS Road No. 370 provided an excellent view of the dam and Castle Creek gushing out of it.

**Deerfield Reservoir dam** from just off the trail. Photo looks SW.

1:12 PM, 71ºF – Well, the adventure with Poppy, LV, and HV was over, but they still wanted to visit a bit. LV and HV invited SPHP and Lupe to join them at the Gold Run cafe. SPHP instantly accepted the invitation, but it turned out that the cafe wasn’t open yet this early in the season.

No matter! How about a visit at Poppy’s house? That would work for sure. So Lupe and SPHP wound up hanging out at Poppy’s beautiful home for a while. Relaxing on Poppy’s big no maintenance deck would have been awesome, but it was so sunny and warm out, that the cool shade inside the house was everyone’s preferred option.

Rollie provided SPHP with a glass of lemonade. Dawnette offered more blueberry fig bars. Still hung up on peppered beef jerky, the American Dingo initially turned down homemade peanut butter dog treats, before eventually deciding that they were good, too.

The fun visit concluded with agreement on another joint adventure in the fall. Poppy eventually bid Lupe farewell from her deck.

Lupe’s friend **Poppy** out on the deck.

2:58 PM – The afternoon was still sunny and warm.

I had a blast seeing Poppy, HV, and LV again, SPHP! What now? Are we going home? If so, you turned the wrong way.

Nope. Stays light pretty late this time of year, Loop. There are a couple of peaks along the E edge of the limestone plateau country Dean Giuliano visited and added to Peakbagger.com quite a while ago. They shouldn’t be too hard to get to, so I’m thinking we still ought to have enough time to tag both of them today, if you like.

Oh, are they Lidar Peaks, SPHP?

Yes and no, Loopster. Practically everything has had an official elevation adjustment due to the new Lidar dataset recently, but although both of these peaks are actually higher than the old topo maps show, they still don’t have the minimum 300 feet of prominence of the other “Lidar Peaks” we’ve been shooting for.

So, we’re just going to tag them because Dean did, SPHP?

They’ll give you a couple more dots on your Master Peak Map, Looper, so yeah, why not?

3:53 PM, 64ºF – Well, the Carolina Dog was all for it, but by the time SPHP parked the RAV4 off Sixmile Road, the weather had changed. Suddenly the sky was full of cumulus clouds.

Parked near the entrance to the **Copper Mountain gravel pit**. Photo looks N.

Maybe that odd little cumulus cloud we saw back at Deerfield Lake was trying to tell us something, SPHP.

You mean like an omen, Loopster?

Yes, like an evil omen, SPHP, a warning.

Shoot! We aren’t going to let a few clouds stop us, are we, Loop? Follow the road past that gate. The Copper Mountain gravel pit is just N of here, and on our way.

Took only a few minutes to reach the gravel pit. Rather than going right on through it, Lupe climbed the bank on the E side of the pit.

The **Copper Mountain gravel pit**. Photo looks N.

We just head N from here Looper. Peak 7100 is our first objective. It’s only 0.5 mile away, and we’re already over 7,000 feet, so we won’t need to gain much elevation.

Is 7,100 the old elevation? How high is it according to Lidar, SPHP?

Lidar says it’s Peak 7123, Loopster. So, a bit higher. 23 feet.

Oh, so not enough to make much difference to us, SPHP. Looks like there’s already a view off to the E. Let’s go take a look.

Wandering through deadfall, bushes, and a few crocuses, Lupe reached the E edge of the plateau after losing 15 feet of elevation. A nice, distant view of Black Elk Peak (7,231 ft.) was off to the SE.

A particularly lovely group of **crocuses**.

**Sixmile Road** (L), **Black Elk Peak** (Center) from the edge of the **limestone plateau**. Photo looks SE.

Returning to the highest ground, the terrain was nearly flat, sloping only gradually higher as Lupe worked her way N. Would have been super easy, if not for a multitude of big juniper bushes, and a maze of deadfall remaining from a shattered forest.

Heading N in search of the **Peak 7100** summit. Photo looks N.

The deadfall wasn’t all that awful, but forced Lupe to take a winding route in order to avoid it as much as possible. Enjoying a fair amount of success, most of the time the American Dingo was well back from the edge of the limestone plateau. However, she did get close to it again a couple of times, yielding some great views of Gillette Prairie, Medicine Mountain (6,884 ft.), and the E edge of Odakota Mountain (7,199 ft.).

A grand view of **Gillette Prairie**. Photo looks NE.

**Medicine Mountain** (L) in the foreground, **Odakota Mountain** (R). Photo looks SE.

4:33 PM, 64ºF – The true summit of Peak 7100 also turned out to be very close to the E edge of the limestone plateau. Unfortunately, it was buried in such a dense collection of live trees, deadfall, and bushes, that they not only almost completely hid the views, but made it nearly impossible to move around. A large area close to what seemed to be the high point was at very nearly the exact same elevation.

**Peak 7100 true summit**, to the extent it could be determined. Photo looks NE.

Congratulations, Loop! One Dean Giuliano Peak down, one more to go!

Lovely, isn’t it, SPHP?

Yes, indeed! So lovely, that let’s keep going. Maybe we can find a better spot to celebrate your success.

200 feet farther N, and only somewhat lower, the Carolina Dog did come to a better spot to take a short break. A limestone platform with a big dead tree on it right along the edge of the plateau offered a great view of several stock ponds near the S end of Gillette Prairie. Much farther N, Reynolds Prairie, Terry Peak (7,069 ft.), and Custer Peak (6,809 ft.) were all in sight, too.

At the superior viewpoint **200 feet N of Peak 7100’s true summit**. Photo looks ESE.

**S end of Gillette Prairie**. Photo looks NE.

Thirsty, Loopster? Your tongue is about to fall out of your head.

Water, SPHP, water …

After a big drink, Lupe crunched some Taste of the Wild. SPHP peeled an orange.

How much farther to the next peak, SPHP?

Peak 7159? Even winding around some, only another 0.5 mile, Looper.

7159. Not much higher than where we are already then, either, SPHP. Sounds good! Are you ready?

Yeah, in a minute. Let me finish my orange first, Loop.

Roaming generally NW, the deadfall improved during a gradual descent to a broad, shallow valley. Crossing it, even though no road was shown on the map here, Lupe came across what must have been an extension of USFS Road No. 656.1A. Following this road N, it faded away almost immediately as the terrain began to rise again.

Descending into the **shallow valley**. Photo looks NW.

Hey, there’s something here, SPHP!

What? Oh, a spoon. How strange! In decent shape, too, Loopster.

Keep it, SPHP. You can dish me out more food at home with it.

Think I will, Looper. Kind of a nice souvenir from this trek. Not often we find anything we can actually use. I like the snazzy purple handle.

Continuing NW, Lupe gained 100 feet of elevation in a denser forest with quite a bit of large deadfall in it. Winding around to avoid the deadfall as much as possible again, the Carolina Dog turned NNE after catching a glimpse of even higher ground in that direction. The forest opened up as she approached the high point.

Approaching **Peak 7159’s summit** (R of Center). Photo looks NNE.

5:28 PM, 63ºF – No doubt at all about the location of the true summit of Peak 7159. Beyond Gillette Prairie, the sky was stormy where a rain shower hid the mountains when Lupe reached a roomy platform of limestone right along the brink of N-facing cliffs. Much closer, Green Mountain (7,176 ft.) was in view to the NNW on the opposite side of a deep valley. Beyond it, a little sliver of Deerfield Lake was in sight.

**Gillette Prairie** from **Peak 7159’s summit**. Photo looks NNE.

**Green Mountain** (L) with a tiny sliver of **Deerfield Reservoir** (L of Center) beyond it. Photo looks NNW.

Just think! We were way over there with Poppy, LV, and HV only a few hours ago, SPHP.

Yup. Fun times, Looper! By the way, congratulations on reaching Peak 7159. Your Dean Giuliano peak tour today is complete.

SPHP shook the Carolina Dog’s paw. Off to the S, a ridge was visible through a gap in the trees. Only moderately higher, gently sloping, and forested, that had to be Odakota Mountain (7,199 ft.). Second highest peak in South Dakota, but it didn’t look all that impressive from here.

Lupe was thirsty again. After sharing water, SPHP munched an apple while admiring the sweeping view to the N. When the apple was gone, SPHP stood up.

It’ll get dark on us on the way back, but want to visit Green Mountain again, Loopster?

Sure! We haven’t been there since Dennis Stewart went with us, SPHP.

Onward, then! Puppy, ho!

Although Green Mountain was less than 0.75 mile NW, Lupe would have to make a big arc circling around S end of the intervening valley to get there. Leaving Peak 7159, the American Dingo followed its SW ridge, staying on the high ground as much as possible, which wasn’t easy due to the amount of deadfall and thickets of large bushes. She hadn’t gotten very far before a small raised platform appeared at least 20 feet above the slope she was on.

Oh, I better climb up there, SPHP! That might be Peak 7159’s true summit!

Maybe, but I doubt it, Loop. Go for it, though. Won’t take but a minute.

On **Peak 7159’s SW high point**. Photo looks N.

Beyond this SW high point, the ridge soon broadened out. Less deadfall was encountered during a gradual descent. By the time Lupe reached the saddle at the S end of the valley she was circling, the terrain was flat and grassy. Reaching USFS Road No. 656, Lupe followed it N a little way, then re-entered the forest as she started up Green Mountain’s S ridge.

On **USFS Road No. 656**. Photo looks N.

A long, winding march N ensued. Plenty of deadfall and bushes were on the broad ridge, happily most of it avoidable without too much trouble. Gradually gaining elevation, distant thunder rumbled off to both the N and SW. The air felt cooler. SPHP felt a raindrop. Began to seem like the terrain ought to be leveling out any moment, when Lupe finally reached an unexpected road where a top was in sight.

On the **unexpected road**. Photo looks NNE.

This road’s going the right way, Loop. Just follow it!

After crossing the high spot, the road dipped and curved E. No road was shown on the map here, but SPHP suddenly knew where Lupe was.

This is the same road we used to take to Green Mountain the first few times we ever visited it long ago, Loopster.

You mean back when we used to come at it from the W, SPHP?

Exactly! This will lead us right to the summit region and the Dingo display column. We’ll be there in no time!

Sure enough, a fence SPHP remembered soon appeared ahead. Beyond it was the big clearing near the edge of the mountain.

Entering **Green Mountain’s summit region**. Photo looks ESE.

7:15 PM, 53ºF, Green Mountain (7,176 ft.) – The summit region was huge and pancake flat. As Lupe entered the clearing where the road ended beyond the fence, a sense of urgency was in the air. Lightning flashed among the clouds. The rumble of thunder was getting steadily louder, especially from the SW. A sporadic 10 mph wind blew from out of the W between periods of dead calm.

Let’s visit the cairn first, Looper!

The cairn was back in the forest, a little N of the clearing. Circling around a terrible mess of deadfall, the Carolina Dog quickly found it.

By the **Green Mountain summit cairn**. Photo looks NE.

Sweet, another peakbagging success, Loopster! Good job!

With nothing but trees to see at the cairn, which was situated at a spot that seemed almost completely arbitrary since the terrain was so flat, SPHP urged Lupe onward.

Let’s visit the Dingo display column now, Loop. That’s the highlight of any trip to Green Mountain!

Returning to the clearing where the road ended, the column was just a little way down the slope at the edge of the plateau.

**Black Elk Peak** (far L) on the horizon, **Dingo display column** (L) with **Copper Mountain** beyond it, **Medicine Mountain** (L of Center), **Peak 7159** (R). Photo looks SSE.

C’mon, Loopster! I’ll boost you up there.

Wait, SPHP. Are you sure? Whoa! Put me down!

Why the big fuss, Loop? It’s a tradition! I always lift you up here. Just stand on top, and hurry it up! I can’t hold you over my head much longer.

After clawing her way onto the column, Lupe looked concerned. She danced around surveying the situation from her cramped little perch, and seeing no safe way down, began to panic.

On the **Dingo display column**. **Five Points** (Center) beyond **Gillette Prairie**. Photo looks E.

Why the fuss? I’ll tell you why, SPHP! Two thunderstorms are bearing down on us. This is no place to be with so much lightning around! If you think this is such a terrific idea, fine. Come on up! It’s your turn, but get me down!

Fearing Lupe might actually make an ill-advised tragic leap off the Dingo display column, SPHP helped her down after a couple of quick photos.

Well done, Looper. Felt a little insecure up there this time, aye? Dramatic shot, though. Let’s get another one from the side.

No way! I’m not getting up there again, SPHP! Not now.

No, I mean from the little ridge where we usually take a break, Loop.

Oh, that’s fine. Don’t mind doing that, SPHP.

**Dingo display column** (L) from the **traditional rest break ridge**. Photo looks NE.

Once again, SPHP shook the Carolina Dog’s paw.

Thanks, Loop. That completes our Green Mountain traditions. Wish we could stay, but under the circumstances, we better get out of here.

Aren’t you forgetting a tradition, SPHP? I’ve climbed 3 mountains, and still no chocolate coconut bar? Surely earned one here, didn’t I?

Yes, but I forgot to bring any, Loopster. How about some water, then we really have to get going.

Fine, but you owe me, SPHP.

7:44 PM – The situation was deteriorating as Lupe went back up the slope to the clearing. Back to the E, the sky was still blue toward the horizon, but toward the W dark clouds hovered overhead. Thunder boomed, and lightning flashed among the clouds. It started to rain as Lupe began tracing her route along the road.

Leaving **Green Mountain**. Photo looks SE.

Gads! We’re going to get absolutely soaked, Loopster.

At least you’ve got a rain jacket, SPHP. Put it on!

No, I don’t. This wasn’t in the forecast, Loop. Nothing but sunshine, so I didn’t even bring it this morning.

Well then, welcome to experiencing the joys of nature as a Dingo, SPHP.

The rain quickly turned to hail. This was better actually, because the hail was tiny. Not even pea size. Half that, or maybe even less. The ground began to turn white.

15 or 20 minutes, and it was all over. No downpour ever materialized. In just a cool breeze, Lupe hurried along the road. Hidden by the clouds, the sun must have set. It was already getting dark. As the light rapidly continued to fade, thunder boomed. Non-stop lightning highlighted black silhouettes of the forest.

Wow! We’ve lucked out, Looper. They’re really getting it somewhere. It’s all moving off to the E.

Told you that cloud was an omen, SPHP! We would have been beaten to a pulp, if the hail had been bigger.

Upon reached USFS Road No. 301.1R, the American Dingo followed it S down through the broad, gently sloping grassy fields of Windmill Draw. It had been ages since Lupe had last been here. Would have been nice to see it again in daylight, but there was something incredibly awesome about being here on such a wild and dramatic evening.

A short rest break at the junction with Sixmile Road, and the rest of the journey became a less interesting trudge. Lightning continued to flash across the black sky, as the thunder grew fainter and fainter.

Wonder what Poppy would have thought of this adventure, SPHP?

Hah! That we’re a couple of lunatics? Guess you can tell Poppy all about it in the fall, and ask her! (End 9:08 PM, 50ºF)

With **Poppy**, **Rollie**, and **Dawnette** on the **Deerfield Reservoir dam**.

**Green Mountain**, Black Hills of South Dakota 4-27-25

**Lupe’s Peak 7100, Peak 7159 & Green Mountain GPS Track**

Links:

Next Black Hills Expedition Prior Black Hills Expedition

Poppy’s Scrollable Deerfield Lake GPS Track & Statistics

Lupe’s Scrollable Peak 7100, Peak 7159 & Green Mountain GPS Track

Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s Black Hills, SD & WY Expeditions Adventure Index, Master Peak Map, Master Adventure Index, or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures!

SPHP Unglued, Civilization & Lupe’s Favorite Picnic Ground, British Columbia & Alberta, Canada (9-12-23 thru 9-14-23)

Part 2 of Day 52 & Days 53 and 54 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

9-12-23, 11:05 AM, 55ºF – After crossing the bridge over the Racing River, the Alaska Highway passed near Racing Peak (4,409 ft.) before curving SE and proceeding up the McDonald Creek valley. During a long climb into Stone Mountain Provincial Park, Lupe had a spectacular view of the huge valley flanked by towering peaks of the Muskwa Ranges.

**McDonald Creek valley**. Photo looks S.

The highway leveled out at Summit Pass. A lone caribou spotted near the W end of Summit Lake instantly got the Carolina Dog all excited. At the E end of the lake, SPHP pulled into the campground’s day use picnic area. Sniffing along Summit Lake’s shoreline, Lupe had a terrific view of Mount Saint George (7,402 ft.).

**Mount Saint George** (L) from **Summit Lake**. Photo looks SW.

9-12-23, 12:11 PM, Summit Lake, Stone Mountain Provincial Park –

Mount Saint George! We weren’t that far from the summit when the weather changed and chased us off the mountain. Remember, SPHP?

Oh, yeah! My poles started buzzing, Looper. Never did that before or since. Pretty good indication that it’s time to vamoose!

Mount Saint George was a fun mountain, SPHP. We ought to try climbing it again.

It was fun, Loop, but I’m not so sure we’re capable of getting to the true summit. Looked dicey by our standards, even before the fog rolled in and hid the last critical part from view. An awful lot of steep talus up there to contend with.

A Dingo can dream, can’t she, SPHP? Anyway, how about lunch? Did you check? Do we have any more Chef Boyardee spaghetti?

I did. We’re really low on supplies, Loopster. If you want anything more than Taste of the Wild, you’ll have to wait until we get to Fort Nelson.

Onward then, SPHP! I’ll be famished by the time we get that far.

E of the campground, it was all downhill as the Alaska Highway began leaving the mountains. Another lone caribou provoked a second shrill barking frenzy. One last photo by the Stone Mountain Provincial Park sign as Lupe left the park, and that was it for the rest of the day.

Second **caribou** dashing across the highway. Photo looks E.

By the **Stone Mountain Provincial Park** sign. Photo looks NW.

Once out of the Muskwa Ranges, a haze was in the air. Wildfire smoke again! Not terrible, but it got worse on the way to Fort Nelson, marring the views of the beautiful mountains receding in the rear view mirror.

9-12-23, 2:39 PM, 66ºF – After fueling up the RAV4 and buying supplies sufficient to satisfy both SPHP’s and an American Dingo’s hunger in Fort Nelson, it was back to the Alaska Highway again.

Now far from the mountains, the highway headed S featuring long, flat stretches frequently interrupted by big ridges and dips into the valleys between them. With distant views of the northern Rocky Mountains off to the W largely hidden by smoke, there was little for SPHP to do other than keep cruising while Lupe dozed on her pink blanket.

All was well, until SPHP saw a couple of men idly standing out in a field. Both were wearing vests with lime green stripes like might be seen on construction workers. When the RAV4 got very close, one began waving frantically, as if trying to trying to attract SPHP’s attention.

A little late with the waving bit. A moment later, the RAV4 was already past them. The Alaska Highway wasn’t crowded by any means, but as the only major road in the more than 200 miles between Fort Nelson and Fort St. John, it was far from deserted, too. Whatever these guys needed, someone else would be along within just a few minutes. Certainly didn’t look like they were in any kind of an emergency situation. They’d just been standing there aimlessly in the field.

Turned out they didn’t want anyone else’s help. Soon SPHP was slowing down, and pulling over to the side of the highway.

What’s going on, SPHP? Why are we stopping here?

Police, Loopster.

Flashing lights pulled in behind the RAV4 moments later.

Why didn’t you stop? Can’t you see that I’m dressed as a police officer?

Sorry, the police don’t dress like you are where I come from. What’s the problem, anyway?

Clocked you at 102 kmph in a 70 kmph zone.

70! The speed limit is 100!

No. You need to pay more attention. There’s a sign back there that says 70. I’ll need to see your license and registration.

Twenty minutes later, the RAV4 was heading S again, but not as fast as SPHP’s disposition.

How bad was it, SPHP?

$196 CAN for that, Loop! What a racket! Not a dang thing out here except some little no name dirt side road with no traffic that they’ve cleverly put a 70 kmph speed limit next to. That’s not even 45 mph, way out here in the wilderness on the Alaska Highway. Criminitly! We’re more than an hour out of Fort Nelson. Nothing’s going on out here!

Well, it’s just like the rock that cracked the windshield yesterday, SPHP. Nothing you can do about it now.

Mentioning the so recently cracked windshield really didn’t help matters much. SPHP came unglued.

70 kmph! Utterly ridiculous! They could fine 99.9% of the traffic that goes by here at that rate, Looper. Heck, they could fine 90% of the traffic at 110 kmph. How do we wind up with a ticket, anyway? The RAV4 is the slowest vehicle on the road. Everyone and his brother is constantly roaring by us. Canadians pay no attention at all to their speed limits. I’m forever pulling over to let others pass, so we don’t have them breathing down our necks.

SPHP fumed. SPHP raged. The American Dingo wisely tuned it all out, and went back to sleep.

An hour of fury was all even SPHP could take. Resilience is key! Gotta be able to roll with the punches. Might as well look on the bright side. $25 CAN reduction in the fine, if paid online within 30 days. That’s the new plan. Why not? Can’t fight it, anyway. The rest would just have to be considered Lupe’s donation to the lovely community of Fort Nelson. Other than that one wayward rock, and this fine, everything else about Canada had been totally awesome.

9-13-23, 7:26 AM, 55ºF – It had been years since Lupe had been on Hwy 29 between the Alaska Highway and Chetwyn. The view of the Peace River valley from a rest area half an hour in was a grand and familiar one despite a touch of wildfire smoke still in the air, yet wasn’t entirely the same as other times the American Dingo had been here.

Wow! It all looks so … parched, SPHP!

Maybe that’s normal this time of year, Loop? Or maybe it’s just because 2023 has been the year of the Arctic Apocalypse? Everything was always so lush and green and beautiful whenever we’ve been here before.

In any case, this was another travel day, a more serious one without any extended romps like the Racing River had been yesterday. For the most part, Lupe stared out the window at the fabulous scenery whizzing by, sometimes snoozing on her pink blanket for a while.

The Carolina Dog did get to enjoy a brief stop at Moberly Lake. After driving through Chetwyn, SPHP remembered to watch for the turn to Teapot Mountain along Hwy No. 97 on the way to Prince George, but unfortunately no longer recognized it.

A couple of stops for fuel and supplies in Prince George (following which, Lupe eagerly helped SPHP devour most of a delicious roasted chicken), and the long drive continued, now heading SE up the Fraser River valley on Yellowhead Hwy No. 16.

9-13-23, 6:04 PM – Lupe was already well beyond McBride, when a green field of surpassing beauty and tremendous interest caught her eye.

SPHP, please stop! We’re in cattle country!

Knowing how much Lupe loved seeing cows, SPHP had to comply.

Cattle in the **Fraser River valley**. Photo looks SW.

It was good to have stopped. Those cows mooing softly while grazing in their green pasture marked the end of the peace and tranquility of the far N on this Dingo Vacation. A short while later, at the junction with Hwy No. 5 coming up from Kamloops, everything changed.

Transformed by the hectic throngs of civilization, Yellowhead Hwy No. 16 was suddenly chock full of semi-trucks, motorhomes, and vehicles of all types engaged in a frantic rush to “get there”, wherever “there” may have been. Having no choice, SPHP joined the relentless rat race while a steady stream of traffic zoomed impatiently past the RAV4. The abrupt return to civilization was a somewhat unnerving shock after having practically owned every road for weeks on end.

Even so, a magnificent sight soon appeared ahead, one Lupe hadn’t seen in many years due to overcast skies virtually every time she’d been by this stretch of highway since visiting Berg Lake long ago.

Stop here, too, SPHP! Mount Robson (12,989 ft.) is in the clear!

SPHP obeyed again; not once, but twice. First at the park entrance, and then a second time a bit farther on at the visitor centre.

Entering **Mount Robson Provincial Park**. **Mount Robson** (L). Photo looks NE.

**Mount Robson**. Photo looks NE with help from the telephoto lens.

At the **visitor centre**. Photo looks NE.

9-13-23, 6:54 PM, Mount Robson Provincial Park – The visitor centre was closed when the American Dingo arrived, but that didn’t matter in the least. With the alpenglow at its peak on the mountain, Lupe went for a stroll behind the visitor centre to enjoy this rare and stunning moment.

**Mount Robson** (Center) near sunset. Photo looks NE.

9-13-23, 7:20 PM – Light was fading fast as Lupe headed into a familiar dim forest on the wide, smooth path that would be her only significant outing of the day. Traffic noise faded away completely during the few minutes it took to get down to the small, but powerful Overlander Falls. The roar of the falls, and the deep, swirling blue-green pool below it were mesmerizing.

9-14-23, 1:50 AM, Yellowhead Hwy No. 16, Overlander Falls pullout – Still some traffic, even at this hour. What peace and darkness existed, came to a sudden end when a semi-truck pulled in right behind the RAV4, then proceeded to idle with headlights on. Nevertheless, taking no action, SPHP soon fell back asleep.

9-14-23, 5:10 AM, 37ºF – Gah! That truck was still here, still idling with its lights on. SPHP had had enough. The night proved infinitely black once back on the highway. However, a hint of dawn was in the E by the time Lupe reached the Alberta border, entering Jasper National Park.

9-14-23, 7:17 AM, 32ºF – Not a soul was around when SPHP pulled into the little parking lot at Lupe’s favorite picnic ground along the Athabasca River. Roughly 5 miles S of mighty Athabasca Falls, this always used to be a quiet spot, blissfully ignored by the countless tourists streaming by along Icefields Parkway No. 37. However, that was back before there had been a picnic ground sign. A year or two ago, the park service had finally put one up.

Better enjoy our solitude while it lasts, Loopster! I bought some more Chef Boyardee spaghetti back in Prince George. Want me to heat some up?

Yes, please! I’ll grab a picnic table overlooking the river, SPHP.

A gorgeous, icy blue, the Athabasca River was much lower now than it had been back in early August when virtually the entire riverbed had been a swollen, silt-laden, gray torrent.

Waiting for the spaghetti to heat up. Photo looks SW.

Get enough spaghetti, Loop?

Is there more, SPHP? I’m certainly willing to do whatever I can to help!

No more spaghetti, but I bought some Danishes, too.

Without hesitation, the Sweet-Tooth Puppy made a valiant contribution to the demise of the Danishes. Lupe licked her chops.

Now what, SPHP? Can we stay a while, and look for squirrels?

Sure can, Loopster. In fact, we’re going to hang out here while I catch up the trip journal. I’m way behind on it.

For the first time ever, the Carolina Dog got to spend nearly the entire day at her favorite picnic ground along the Athabasca River. However, her days of carefree barking at squirrels here without bothering anyone were over. People soon began arriving, and the once common solitude at this formerly overlooked spot never returned.

Sometimes in the RAV4, sometimes sitting on the red chairs overlooking the Athabasca River, SPHP worked on the trip journal. Lupe lay nearby, frequently getting up to wander about the forest a bit before returning. She helped SPHP polish off the rest of the roasted chicken and countless potato chips, but had no interest in SPHP’s Allsorts licorice.

As hours drifted by, the sun slowly sailed around to the W.

9-14-23, 6:41 PM, 75ºF, Lupe’s favorite picnic ground –

Enough writing! Let’s go down to the river, Loopster.

Are you all caught up, SPHP? Took long enough.

Yes, it did, and no, I’m still not caught up. Guess I need to be more concise.

You must be writing an epic tale, SPHP.

It often seems that way to me, Loop. You’re the first to notice, though, so maybe not. Hardly matters. C’mon, to the mighty Athabasca River!

Down on the riverbed, Lupe leapt up onto a boulder, a sharp peak of the stunning Canadian Rockies beyond rising dramatically into the blue.

Down by the **Athabasca River**. Photo looks SSW.

What’s the name of that mountain, SPHP?

It’s either Mount Fryatt (11,017 ft.) or Mount Christie (10,236 ft.), Loop, but I’ve never really been sure which.

It was a perfect evening, near the end of a beautiful, relaxing day.

Hate to leave, but we’ve got to get going, Loop. Hope you had fun here.

Do we have to? Why leave now, so late in the day, SPHP?

We need to be in Banff early on the 16th, but that leaves us with another whole day to enjoy the Canadian Rockies before then, Looper. We’re all rested up, so we’re not going to waste it. We’re leaving to get into better position for your next big adventure tomorrow.

I like the sound of that, SPHP. If we must, we must!

9-14-23, 7:50 PM – The last rays of sunlight were about to vanish from Mount Athabasca (11,414 ft.) and Mount Andromeda (11,286 ft.) by the time Lupe reached the nearly vacant humongous parking lot at the Jasper Columbia Icefields Discovery Centre.

Looking S: **Mount Athabasca** (L), **Mount Andromeda** (R), **Athabasca Glacier** (far R).

Still such an amazing sight, but sadder every year, too, as the snow and ice recede. Nothing to be done about that, though. After enjoying the view, the drive S continued into Banff National Park. It was already quite dark when Lupe spotted a lynx on the prowl. Upon arriving at Bow Lake, a million stars were above.

Perhaps even more impressive, miracle of miracles, the short side road to the Bow Lake picnic ground, which had always been wretched due to numerous giant potholes, had been repaired! (End 10:47 PM, 42ºF)