Day 18 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!
6:18 AM – Light out, sort of. Lupe sniffed around near the G6 in a thick fog. It had rained bunches yesterday evening and most of the night. No rain now, just this gray gloom. The air was dead calm. Little hope existed that conditions would change anytime soon. May as well snooze a few more hours.
8:44 AM – Awake again. The Carolina Dog was starting the morning off right, barking at a squirrel in the spruce trees nearby. Still foggy, but the fog was thin enough now so that a bright spot revealed the position of the sun. Slightly encouraging, but nothing to get excited about yet.
In the meantime, why not get a photo of Looper by the big red metal gate she’d gone by yesterday to start her fabulous adventure to Caribou Mountain (3,179 ft.)? As long as the fog persisted, there wasn’t much else to do anyway. SPHP joined Lupe outside the G6.
Lupe was still standing next to the red gate, when suddenly the sky brightened so much it actually seemed sunny out. Overhead, the fog was tinged with blue! Maybe this was only a ground fog that would burn off before long?
9:31 AM – Well, well! It was true! The early morning’s gloom had only been a ground fog after all. First, a tiny patch of blue sky appeared. It had spread with incredible speed. Within only 15 minutes, 80% of the sky was clear and bright. Sort of amazing to watch! This Arctic weather was so different from back home. Suddenly, things were looking up for Loopster! Adventure was back in today’s forecast now!
And then, unbelievably, the whole process reversed itself. The sun had only been shining on the dewy tundra for a few minutes, when the additional warmth caused moisture from last night’s rain to evaporate, making the air more humid again. As quickly as the fog had burned away, it reformed. Dense fog engulfed the land again. The sun no longer existed.
Huh. Weird. Really strange. Lupe had never seen anything quite like that before. Now what?
Apparently anything at all might happen today. Since Lupe had finished the adventures planned for around here, she might as well continue N. She would just have to be flexible, and see how things worked out.
The fog and sun continued their battle as SPHP drove N. Lupe’s first stop was at an important landmark, one that was even more significant since Lupe had recently become the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood after climbing AB Mountain (5,036 ft.) near Skagway 10 days ago. At milepost 115.5 on the Dalton Highway, Lupe reached the Arctic Circle.
The sun had been winning its struggle with the fog, so Lupe and SPHP stuck around at the Arctic Circle for a while. There was both a picnic ground and campground here. SPHP used one of the picnic tables to prepare a meal. Meanwhile, Lupe was entertained barking at squirrels in the forest.
Once the meal was consumed, Lupe continued N on the Dalton Highway. It felt so incredible to be back in the Arctic again! The drive through mile after mile of Arctic wilderness was like a dream. Loop stopped briefly at Gobbler’s Knob (milepost 132) for a view of the Brooks Range, which she was rapidly approaching.
Even before reaching milepost 160, Cathedral Mountain (3,350 ft.) came into view. It hadn’t rained at all on Loop yet this morning, but a shower had passed through here not long before. The pavement was all wet. Conditions were admittedly a bit iffy, and it was already getting a little late in the day for starting such a big adventure, but maybe Lupe could still climb Cathedral Mountain?
Only one person who uses Peakbagger.com had ever climbed Cathedral Mountain, and that had been more than 22 years ago. Richard Carey had been there on 7-29-95. Fortunately, Carey had written a concise trip report full of useful information. Carey had mentioned a small pullout with room for only one or two cars at about milepost 168.5. Nearing the area, SPHP slowed down to look for it.
SPHP didn’t see any small pullout, but there was a really large gravel pullout on the NW side of the Dalton Highway about where Carey had said to look. Maybe things had changed in 22 years? Certainly possible. SPHP parked the G6. The American Dingo shot out eager for action. Things looked a bit iffy. Cathedral Mountain was right across the Dalton Highway from here, but the sky overhead was looking mighty gray.
All was not gloom and doom, however. A mix of blue sky and puffy clouds was off to the SW, and seemed to be heading this way. Loop and SPHP were both in favor of taking a chance on Cathedral Mountain. SPHP got everything ready, and the American Dingo set out on her next big adventure. (1:56 PM, 53°F)
Water could be heard on the SE side of the Dalton Highway. A stream was hidden over there in the forest. By the looks of the terrain, the stream would pass under the highway a short distance back to the SW. It would be nice to avoid a creek crossing. Lupe followed the highway SW until she was past where the stream went under it, before turning S and plunging into the forest.
Lupe immediately found herself in a densely packed spruce forest on thick, spongy tundra. Tall, slender bushes were in the mix, too. This was exciting stuff for the Carolina Dog! Lupe ran sniffing and exploring, but was careful not to stray too far from SPHP.
Of course, the thick vegetation was still wet from last night’s rains and the recent shower in this area. Before long, Lupe and SPHP were both soaking wet, too. Not unexpected. Onward!
From the Dalton Highway, a high barren ridge had been visible to the S well above tree line. That ridge appeared to be in the vicinity of Richard Carey’s successful line of ascent described in his trip report, so Loop needed to get up there. The ridge couldn’t be seen from down in the dense forest, but Loop and SPHP headed in its general direction.
Before long, water could be heard again. Another stream! Lupe reached it, and found the stream wider and deeper than could be readily forded. Both banks were lined with dense stands of tall bushes. Just getting in or out of the stream was an issue, never mind across it. No way! Maybe if Loop continued upstream far enough there would be a better spot? The stream might even bend off to the SW, in which case the Carolina Dog wouldn’t even need to cross it.
The terrain down by the stream was a difficult trek. Too many bushes amid jumbled rocks. Loop and SPHP turned E to climb onto a low ridge above the creek valley. This ridge headed SE, which wasn’t the really the direction Lupe needed to go, but would be fine for a little way. Climbing up onto and moving around on the ridge wasn’t all that easy, either. Spongy tundra made each step more difficult. While the spruce trees weren’t all that big, they were close together.
Lupe came to a few spots where the forest wasn’t so dense. The high barren ridge she needed to get to could then be seen to the S. Loop could also see farther up the creek valley. The news wasn’t good. The valley was turning SE instead of SW. Sooner or later, Lupe was going to have to find a way across that darn stream.
Lupe and SPHP continued SE gaining elevation gradually on the low ridge for a while longer. Finally, the time came to see how much of a problem it was going to be to get across the creek up here. Lupe went SSW, leaving the ridge to look for the stream.
The stream wasn’t far away. This time the news was unexpectedly good. The stream was rushing along, but much smaller up here, only 3 feet wide and not very deep. Easy squeezy! SPHP swung across it with the help of an overhanging branch. Lupe simply leapt across.
One problem solved. However, an hour had already shot by since leaving the Dalton Highway. Puppy, ho! Time to get up on that barren ridge.
Once beyond the stream, Loop headed S gaining elevation. The barren ridge she was aiming for was soon in sight ahead. The climb got steadily steeper and steeper. Progress seemed slow.
Another big hill was closer than the barren ridge Lupe was heading for. It looked like it might connect to the barren ridge much higher up than where the Carolina Dog was now. Maybe Loop should climb this hill? Getting above all the trees, bushes, and spongy tundra would be a huge help. Seemed to make sense. Yeah, Loop was going to try this closer hill instead of trudging through this difficult stuff all the way to the base of the barren ridge.
The climb up the nearer hill was quite steep. The trees soon thinned out, though scattered trees and plenty of bushes remained for a while. The hill narrowed. Higher up, Looper started coming to rock outcroppings. The rock formations were small, only 10 or 20 feet high. The American Dingo always found a way around them, though they sometimes slowed progress. Before she’d climbed terribly far, Lupe was beginning to get views of the Koyukuk River.
After what seemed like a long climb, Lupe managed to reached the top of the hill. She found that this wasn’t a separate hill at all. Loop was on a small level ridge protruding N from the rest of Cathedral Mountain. There were no trees here, although some bushes were around. Most of the ridge was covered with tundra and small rock outcroppings. Lupe had plenty of room to move around, and the views were the best yet.
Loop had expended so much energy having a blast down in the forest, that she was ready for a rest break. SPHP concurred.
While Loop rested, SPHP studied the topo map and read Richard Carey’s trip report again. Carey hadn’t mentioned anything about a stream crossing. As soon as Lupe had come to the stream, SPHP had suspected that she hadn’t started from the exact same place as Carey.
The topo map concurred. It seemed fairly certain Lupe had started out about a mile farther NE on the Dalton Highway than Carey had. Maybe more like at milepost 169.5 than 168.5. Eh, whatever. Looper must have started from just N of the streams shown in Section 12, and had left the Dalton Highway between them. If the American Dingo had only gone a little farther SW on the highway before leaving it, she would have completely avoided both streams.
This little ridge Lupe was on right now was between the “A” and “L” at the end of “Cathedral” on the map. The barren ridge Lupe was trying to get to was Carey’s “small hill” in the 2,500 ft. contour ENE of High Point 2545. Carey had passed a little S of this hill on his way E from the “low saddle”, which couldn’t be seen from here. All Loopster had to do now was gain the remaining 200+ feet of elevation required to reach the top of the barren ridge. She would then be in position to intercept Carey’s route the rest of the way.
Simple enough. The small ridge Lupe was already on connected directly to the slope leading up to E end of the barren ridge. Best get on with it. It had taken SPHP two hours just to get this far, and it was still a long way to the top of Cathedral Mountain. The weather might put an end to things at any time. Loop had been lucky so far, but rain showers were always in sight not terribly far away.
Reaching the top of the barren ridge seemed to require more like 250 feet of elevation gain than 200 feet. The upper slope was surprisingly steep. Lupe had no problems, but SPHP was grasping for anything at all to hang onto, which wasn’t much. Nevertheless, both Loop and SPHP made it to the top.
For the first time, Lupe could now see territory S of Cathedral Mountain. A check of the topo map matched up with what Loop was seeing exactly as expected. No doubt at all where she was now.
From the barren ridge, Lupe could now join up with Carey’s route by heading SE toward an upper saddle at 2,750+ feet elevation. Lupe had a good view of this upper saddle, though the camera produced a lousy one due to moisture on the lens. A brief rain shower was sweeping over the area as the Carolina Dog was about to continue on again.
The rain shower didn’t last long and was of no consequence. Lupe lost a bit of elevation leaving the barren ridge for the upper saddle, but was soon regaining it traversing a steep slope well below a rocky ridgeline. The slope was surprisingly tough going – slanty with minor drop offs, spongy tundra, and lots of bushes. Lupe finally climbed higher up on the slope close to the lower rocks, and things were a bit better up here.
Lupe passed slightly above and to the N of the upper saddle. She was now heading E on the S side of Cathedral Mountain. Ahead was another even slightly higher saddle at 2,800+ feet elevation. On the S side of this highest saddle, High Point 2955 was in view.
From here, Carey had continued E staying somewhat below and to the S of Cathedral Mountain’s main ridgeline. The top of the ridgeline was to be avoided, since it was so rocky and jagged. Actually, the way SPHP read it, Carey had probably bypassed this upper saddle staying quite a bit higher and closer to the ridgeline than where Loop was now.
That didn’t matter. Lupe could easily angle up nearer the ridgeline as she kept going E. She headed toward a big rock fairly high on the slope N of the 2,800+ foot saddle.
From the big rock, Lupe continued E, slowly gaining elevation. At first, this route was pretty easy. However, the slope kept steepening. As the tundra thinned out, Loop was more and more frequently traversing loose scree slopes.
For quite a long way, Lupe could see part of Cathedral Mountain’s SE ridge ahead. A long slope on this side of it slanted steeply up to the N leading to the still unseen summit. If Lupe could get over to that slope, SPHP was pretty certain she stood a good chance of reaching Cathedral Mountain’s summit, provided it could be reached without any technical climbing. Carey hadn’t mentioned any.
However, it was still in question whether or not it would be possible to get over there. The slope Loop was on kept getting steeper, and SPHP feared the Carolina Dog was going to come to an impassable point. The views immediately below Lupe’s position were becoming incredible, and a bit intimidating. SPHP quit looking down.
The mountain presented a series of minor “horizons” coming down the S slope that Lupe couldn’t see beyond until she got to them. One by one she crossed them going E, but another always appeared a little farther on. SPHP kept wondering if Loop was too high or low on the mountain? The answer wasn’t obvious. The Carolina Dog just kept going.
Finally, a much larger ragged line of rock appeared extending down the S slope from Cathedral Mountain’s main ridgeline. What would Lupe find there? Would she be able to get beyond it? More to the point, could SPHP get beyond it? Being able to turn that corner was critical to success. Carey had done it, but he had genuine mountaineering experience.
About the time Lupe reached the rocky spine coming down from the main ridgeline, a second rain shower appeared heading straight this way. SPHP donned the rain poncho. Once again, Lupe got wet, SPHP didn’t, and the shower passed by fairly quickly without putting a serious damper on things.
Loop and SPHP had to down climb a bit to get around the rocky spine, but succeeded in getting by it. The worst part of the trek to Cathedral Mountain’s summit was now behind the American Dingo! If the summit wasn’t technical, she was going to get there. That wouldn’t be known until she climbed hundreds of feet up the steep scree slope ahead.
Up, up, up! Steep. Real steep, but Lupe was finally approaching the ridgeline. Big rock formations sat atop much of it, but Lupe could keep progressing E easily enough staying a bit below them. The summit couldn’t be too far away!
A little W of the mountain’s true summit, Lupe reached the top of the main E/W ridgeline. Now she could see in almost every direction. The views were stupendous! So, so beautiful!
An easy stroll E along the main ridgeline brought Lupe to the summit of Cathedral Mountain. Here she found two 10 foot high knobs of rock. They were separated by 12 to 15 feet of level ground covered with vegetation. The E knob appeared clearly higher by a foot or two. Neither of the knobs was very large on top, but there was room for Loop to sit or stand comfortably.
Lupe scrambled up onto the higher E knob first. She found a small cairn on top protecting two tin cans that were painted red. The larger can was turned upside down over the smaller one to shield it from the weather. The American Dingo had made it! Despite SPHP’s fears and doubts near the end of the journey, she sat calmly and confidently at the true summit of Cathedral Mountain (3,350 ft.)!
So was there a registry inside the smaller tin can? Yes, there was! Inside was a plastic bag containing a pencil and a small notebook serving as a registry. A surprising number of entries were contained in it. Far more people had been up on Cathedral Mountain than SPHP would ever have expected.
Inside the front cover was something amazing. The notebook was in such good condition, it was hard to believe it was true. Richard Carey himself had brought this very notebook to the top of Cathedral Mountain more than 22 years ago! His was the first entry!
SPHP entered Lupe’s name in the registry to make her ascent official. Lupe received lots of praise for her valiant efforts to get here, and SPHP shook her sweet paw in congratulations. SPHP recited how Cathedral Mountain was her 3rd summit ever N of the Arctic Circle and 1st of 2017, what memorable adventures each ascent had been, and how splendid each peak was!
Loop was pretty happy with all the richly deserved attention. Of course, the notebook and pencil went back in the plastic bag and inside the little red tin can. Everything got put back exactly as Lupe had found it.
Then, even though the day was getting so late it made SPHP nervous considering how long it had taken to get here, it was time to relax a bit up on Cathedral Mountain. Picture time! These were views Loop and SPHP would never want to forget.
After nearly 40 minutes at the top of Cathedral Mountain, the sad moment of departure drew near. What a magnificent peak! Lupe climbed up on top of the summit’s W knob one more time.
The return trip was marvelous! It had seemed to SPHP that maybe Loop had been too low for too long on the ascent. At times, things had looked easier higher up. Of course, there was a lot of rock along the top of the ridgeline. Maybe it wasn’t possible to stay so high, but on the way back, Loopster was going to try.
Staying high worked. This was a faster route with amazing views. Lupe was eventually forced down off the ridgeline, but not until she was getting close to the highest saddle N of High Point 2955.
Instead of returning to the top of the barren ridge on the way back, Lupe skirted it to the S as Richard Carey had done. She passed over the low saddle NE of High Point 2545 retracing Carey’s route. She continued W along the mountainside a little beyond the saddle before turning N and descending between two rounded bald hills.
Lupe’s route below the bald hills was steep, but was full of thick tundra, which made it soft and easy. Going up here would have been tough, but Loop made rapid progress down the slope. She never did have to cross a stream, although she did cross a long stretch of boggy terrain on a much more gentle slope nearing the Dalton Highway.
The light was almost gone by the time Lupe made it back to the Dalton Highway. A 0.25 mile gradual uphill trek remained to Alpo and a warm blankie inside the G6. What a wonderful day Cathedral Mountain had been! (11:00 PM)
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