Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 315 – Centennial Trail No. 89 – French Creek to Highland Creek (5-20-23)

7:38 AM, 53ºF, Centennial Trail No. 89, at the French Creek Horse Camp in Custer State Park –

Great to be out in the Black Hills again, SPHP!

It is!  Good thing you’re enthusiastic, too.  Going to be a long day, Loop.

Terrific!  Are we going to be climbing lots of mountains, SPHP?

Nope.  Probably none at all.  This next section of Centennial Trail No. 89 is 10 miles long.  Round trip we’ll be doing 20.  That ought to be enough of a romp, even for a Carolina Dog!

Trailhead parking at the French Creek Horse Camp. Photo looks SW.

Thirsty, Looper?

Not terribly, SPHP.  We haven’t done anything yet.

Well, let’s have a look at French Creek, anyway, before setting off.

Down at the stream, Lupe did help herself to a small drink.  Even though French Creek is one of the larger streams in the Black Hills, it isn’t all that big.  The lovely stream had decent flow today, though.

French Creek. Photo looks SW.

All set, Loopster?  The trail S starts at the opposite end of the horse camp.

Lupe enjoyed the stroll SW through the horse camp.  People, horses, dogs, and intriguing scents were here.  At the far end, CSP Road No. 4 went over French Creek.  A little farther on, Centennial Trail No. 89 left the road, continuing SW along a much more primitive route.

Covered stalls at the popular French Creek Horse Camp. Photo looks W.
French Creek again at the SW end of the horse camp. Photo looks SE.
Setting out for Highland Creek on Centennial Trail No. 89. Photo looks SW.

Flat at first, the dirt road the trail followed soon began a gradual ascent.  Before long, it curved sharply E, starting to climb much more steeply up a side valley.  Not a cloud in the sky!  SPHP stopped briefly to shed a layer and apply sunscreen.

Going slowly uphill. Photo looks SW.
Starting up the steeper side valley. Photo looks ESE.

This seems familiar, SPHP.  We’ve been here not too long ago, haven’t we?

That’s right, Loop.  We came down this way 14 months ago after climbing Peak 5213 SE of here on Expedition No. 298.  You’ll only remember this first part, though.  It’s been a very long time since we’ve gone all the way to Highland Creek.

Winding SW, the dirt road gained 300 feet of elevation before eventually flattening out beyond the part Lupe remembered.  Splitting off toward the W as a single track here, Centennial Trail No. 89 soon curved NW, topping out near the head of another valley.

Entering the Pass No. 1 region. Photo looks NW.

Reaching the trail’s high point, Lupe paused to look S.  Only May, yet the air was already smoky from forest fires raging more than 1,000 miles away in Alberta!  The smoke was bad enough to mar distant views, but wasn’t terrible.  Despite the haze, Peak 5080 was still visible 2 miles S.  She would be going past it in a little while.

Peak 5080 (R of Center) from Pass No. 1. Photo looks S.

Although we won’t be climbing any mountains today, Looper, we will be going over a series of minor passes.  This is the first, and highest, one.  The Peakbagger app on the iPhone says we’re at 4,970 feet, 1.5 miles from the French Creek Horse Camp trailhead.

Don’t remember this view at all, SPHP.  Must really have been a long time since we were here before.

11 years to the day, Loopster!  You weren’t even 1.5 years old yet.  Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 20, one of our most memorable ever!  We actually started for Highland Creek from Badger Hole, a 28 mile round trip.  Made it, too, but wound up getting lost after dark on the way back, wandering all night lost somewhere E of Mount Coolidge (6,023 ft.).  You cut a paw on something sharp, and I mistook a buffalo for a big rock until we were so close to it, you went nuts.  Instead of running away, the buffalo came after you, while I stumbled around on logs cut into sections for firewood, trying to avoid getting charged.

Oh, I remember that, SPHP!  Good times!  That still has to be our longest Black Hills expedition ever.  You never did figure out where we were until we reached Hwy 16A as the sun came up.

Not exactly true, Looper!  I knew where we were all along, sort of, within a mile or two.  Anyway, all that excitement happened miles N of here.  All I remember about what’s S is a prairie dog town somewhere near the end, a pronghorn antelope, and Highland Creek.  Other than that, just a grassy hill with a big tree on top that I’d always wished we’d climbed.

If you see that hill again, maybe we can climb it today, SPHP?

Hope so, Loop!  Don’t know why, but I always wanted to see what was up there.

Continuing past Pass No. 1, the trail curved S down into the next valley.

At Centennial Trail No. 89’s high point at Pass No. 1. Photo looks WNW.
Heading down the next valley. Photo looks S.

A long, gradual slope led back into another forest.  Before long, Lupe reached a paved road in a bigger valley.  This was the Custer State Park Wildlife Loop.  After crossing the Wildlife Loop, the trail bottomed out in the ditch, then began a slow ascent as it curved W up another small, shallow valley.

Beside the parking area where Centennial Trail No. 89 crosses the Custer State Park Wildlife Loop. Photo looks SW.
Starting up the next valley. Photo looks W.

The trail soon began turning S.  Climbing much more aggressively near the end, Lupe regained 150 feet of elevation before reaching Pass No. 2.  She was now at 4,900 feet, only 0.5 mile from the Wildlife Loop, or 2.5 miles from the French Creek trailhead.

At Pass No. 2. Photo looks SSE.

S of Pass No. 2, the trail lost scarcely any elevation at all.  Instead, it ran SSE through open forest staying nearly flat as it traversed a gentle slope.  After 0.5 mile, the forest gave way to a huge meadow.  A lone bison stood warily watching the Carolina Dog 400 feet away up on a hill to the SW.

A line of considerably higher hills where the forest had burned ran NW/SE beyond a valley to the E.  Peak 5213 was up there!

S of Pass No. 2. Talk about a walk in the park! Photo looks SSE.
Entering the vast meadow. Photo looks SE.
Peak 5213 (R of Center) in the distance. Photo looks NE.

Peak 5080 was also in sight again, now directly ahead.  A much smaller, grassy hill was even closer off to the SSW.  A big Ponderosa pine stood at the top with a collection of smaller ones near it.

That’s the hill I remember, Loop!

The one you always wished we’d climbed, SPHP?

Yes!  I’m sure of it!

We can climb it right now then, SPHP!

Let’s wait until we’re on our way back, Loopster, if it’s not too late.  More important to make sure we get to Highland Creek first.

Peak 5080 (Center), the hill SPHP wanted to climb (far R). Photo looks S.

Heading SE across the giant meadow, Centennial Trail No. 89 began a gradual descent.  Near the next forest, the trail swung SW into it.  This seemed a good spot to take a little break in the shade.  SPHP took a seat on a log, while Lupe sniffed around, or sat nearby.

Taking a short break. Photo looks NE.

Getting warm out, SPHP!  I’m thirsty.  Nary a drop along the trail ever since we left French Creek.

SPHP shared some water with Lupe, then sat munching honey-roasted peanuts.

How far have we gone now, SPHP?

Hmm.  Let me check, Loop.  iPhone says 3.5 miles, so we’re a third of the way to Highland Creek, maybe a bit more.

So far, so good, SPHP!

Yeah, this is pretty easy, Loopster.  Excellent trail, no super steep terrain.  Kind of nice not to have to face an ordeal for once.  All we have to worry about is the distance.  Since it’s so sunny, let me reapply some sunscreen, then we’ll keep going.

From the break spot, the trail began a somewhat steeper descent.  Lupe spotted bright yellow wildflowers on a hillside, and went over to them.

By the yellow wildflowers.

Always remember to take time to sniff the roses, SPHP!

Fairly certain these aren’t roses, Loop, but I agree with the sentiment.

Not roses?  No matter, they’ll do!  Can’t be too picky in life, either, SPHP.

You’re a wise Dingo, sweet puppy!

Continuing down this next valley, Lupe reached the first damp spots along the trail.  Before long she came to a tiny, seasonal creek.  The trail turned NE here, ultimately descending to a broad, grassy valley where the Wildlife Loop was in view again, but no actual wildlife.

Continuing down the valley. Photo looks SE.
Crossing the tiny seasonal creek. Photo looks ESE.
Approaching the Wildlife Loop again. Photo looks ENE.

Upon reaching the broad valley, Centennial Trail No. 89 did not continue across it toward the Wildlife Loop Road.  Instead, it turned SE, hugging the edge of the forest while winding along the base of the hills.  There was some minor, gentle up and down along in here that didn’t amount to much, until the trail veered S up a steeper drainage.

Across the broad valley from the Wildlife Loop Road. Photo looks N.
Going over a gentle rise near the edge of the forest. Photo looks SE.

This drainage was the start of a nearly mile long ascent divided into two parts.  After gaining 100 feet of elevation in the forested ravine, Lupe reached the edge of a gently sloping meadow.  Two barren hills where the forest had burned were now in sight, with Pass No. 3 between them.

Pass No. 3 (L) from the edge of the meadow. Photo looks SW.

Still slowly gaining elevation, Centennial Trail No. 89 turned WSW here, and didn’t top out until Lupe reached a stand of pines at the base of the nearest barren hill.  A gradual descent SSE followed, with a couple more barren hills, Peak 4880 and Peak 4840, temporarily directly ahead.

Peak 4880 (Center) and Peak 4840 (R). Photo looks SE.

The gradual descent led to a shorter, steeper one, as the trail curved SW into the upper end of another ravine that drained E.  From the bottom of this ravine, Lupe completed the final leg of the ascent to Pass No. 3.

Approaching Pass No. 3. Photo looks S.

10:26 AM – Although marred by smoke, Pass No. 3 offered first views of new territory ahead.  A small peak of massive granite formations two miles SW stood out as having a more rugged appearance than the other hills Lupe had been traveling through.

At Pass No. 3. Photo looks SSW.

The Peakbagger app says we’re 5.1 miles from the start now, Loopster.  Puts us about halfway to Highland Creek.  Shall we take a break?

Yes, please!  I need another drink, SPHP.  Wearing a fur coat, you know.

After sharing water with the Carolina Dog, SPHP munched away again on honey-roasted peanuts, before applying another dose of sunscreen.

Not a bad view, SPHP!  How high are we here?

4,775 feet, Loop.  Not as high as the first 2 passes.  Overall, we’re slowly going downhill as we head S, a trend that will continue all the way to Highland Creek.

Exploring an arm of the pass that jutted out to the SW, CSP Road No. 7 was in view only 0.33 mile away.

CSP Road No. 7 (Center) from Pass No. 3. Photo looks SE.

Continuing on, Centennial Trail No. 89 wound S down to the road.  Along the way, Lupe caught sight of the first significant wildlife so far today, a couple of pronghorn antelope.  Unfortunately, they ran off before SPHP could get a photo.  Nevertheless, seeing the pronghorns was exciting, and more excitement was just ahead.

Reaching CSP Road No. 7 at the bottom of the hill, Lupe was happy to see Flynn Creek.  The American Dingo ran ahead, anxious to take advantage of this rare opportunity to cool off.

Wading in Flynn Creek next to CSP Road No. 7. Photo looks WNW.

After crossing CSP Road No. 7, Centennial Trail No. 89 began climbing SSW back up into a pine forest a little way before curving E.  Continuing uphill, Pass No. 4 wasn’t much farther, or much higher, along a dirt road that the trail intersected.  The elevation was only 4,590 feet here, nearly 200 feet lower than at Pass No. 3.

Beyond Pass No. 4, the dirt road gradually lost elevation as it wound SE.  Loss was minimal, though, no more than 100 feet, before Lupe reached a stretch of very flat terrain where the trail went due S.

Heading downhill again shortly after leaving Pass No. 4. Photo looks SE.
Another stroll through the park! Photo looks S.
One of the trail markers. Brown wands were the most common markers, although quite a few were broken. Blue markers with arrows were often seen, too.

This flat stretch eventually led to another minor descent SE, after which Centennial Trail No. 89 turned SW, making its last significant elevation gain of roughly 225 feet before reaching Pass No. 5.

Arriving at Pass No. 5. Photo looks SE.

11:42 AM, Pass No. 5

How about another short break, Looper?

If there’s water involved, I’m all for it, SPHP!

Sitting in the shade, the day’s now usual break time routine ensued.  Lupe got a bowl of water.  SPHP munched away on honey-roasted peanuts, and added another layer of sunscreen.

Pretty sure the prairie dog village is down in the next valley we’re seeing ahead, Loop.  If they’re still there, that is.

Sounds exciting, SPHP!  Does that mean we’re getting close to Highland Creek?  Thought you said that the prairie dogs were near the end.

The Peakbagger app says we’re at 4,710 feet here, and that we’ve gone 7.4 miles so far, or about 3/4 of the way to Highland Creek.  So, yeah.  We’ve made a lot of progress.

There was a view to the NW, featuring some considerably higher hills in the distance.  Lupe had a look at it before lying down in the shade.

Looking NW from Pass No. 5.

The trail had followed a rather rocky road up to Pass No. 5.  This same road was grassy as it continued S.  SPHP assumed that was the way to go, once underway again, but a man suddenly appeared from out of a stand of young pines immediately to the E.  He didn’t wave, nod, or say a thing, but turned N, and kept on going down the same road Lupe had come up.

Hmm.  That’s odd!  We’re invisible!  Does the trail go E from here, Loop?

Maybe.  How would I know, SPHP?  You’ve got a map.  What does it say?

The map confirmed that the trail did jog ENE here.  In fact, once Lupe got going again, Pass No. 5’s actual high point was a short distance that way.  Beyond it was another barren hill where the forest had burned, plus the biggest rock formation the American Dingo had come to since leaving French Creek.

Scrambling up onto the rocks, Mount Coolidge (6,023 ft.) was in sight through the smokey haze, now 6 or 7 miles back to the NNW.

Near Pass No. 5’s actual high point. Photo looks NE.
On the rocks. Peak 4830 (L), Mount Coolidge (R) in the distance. Photo looks NNW.

Beyond the rock formation, Centennial Trail No. 89 turned S again.  Lupe trotted down an easy slope through an open forest of relatively young pines.  As she emerged from the forest, a pancake flat plain was directly ahead.  A whole lot of chirping began as the Carolina Dog approached.

The prairie dogs were still here!

Approaching the prairie dog town. Photo looks SSE.
One of the town’s wary citizens.

There weren’t as many prairie dogs as the last time Lupe had been here 11 years go, but that might have had something to with the time of day.  At any rate, quite a few of them whistled at her approach.  Centennial Trail No. 89 went straight through the heart of the town.  At the S end, a prairie dog marker was on the ground between two tall wooden posts.

Prairie dog town marker.

Once past the prairie dog town, the trail continued SSE following a dirt road down a long, flat valley.  At the far end, the trail dropped more sharply to a low point.  After bottoming out, a short, easy climb led to Pass No. 6 at the top of a gentle rise.

In the flat valley S of the prairie dog town. Photo looks S.
Heading down to the low point N of Pass No. 6. Photo looks SW.

The terrain was so gently rolling now, that Pass No. 6 wasn’t much of a pass at all, but Lupe stopped here along the edge of a flat, open forest for a short water and shade break, anyway.  SPHP kept up the honey-roasted peanut habit, and had an orange, too.  Lupe was now hungry enough to eagerly devour some Taste of the Wild.

I know we haven’t reached Highland Creek yet, but it can’t be too much farther.  Any any interest in splitting a chocolate coconut bar, Loop?

You can always count on me when it comes to chocolate coconut bars, SPHP!

The end was near!  The prairie dog town had been 7.8 miles from French Creek, and Lupe had already gone 8.9 miles at Pass No. 6.  Another mile ought to about do it.

As it turned out, one more gentle rise to what might be considered Pass No. 7 was ahead.  Beyond it, the road began a gradual descent.  When Lupe saw the top of a grassy ridge ahead, SPHP knew she was getting close to Highland Creek.

Heading for Pass No. 7 (R). Photo looks S.
View to the W from the Pass No. 7 region.
The grassy ridge (Center) beyond Highland Creek. Photo looks SW.

At the very end, Centennial Trail No. 89 curved W as it dropped down to the Highland Creek valley.  200 feet beyond the creek stood a tall fence with a gate in it.  Wind Cave National Park, Service Road No. 5, and the Highland Creek trailhead were all just beyond the fence.

Heading down into the Highland Creek valley. Photo looks SSW.
Highland Creek valley from a limestone outcropping. Photo looks WNW.

Of course, before visiting the trailhead, the Carolina Dog insisted upon a careful examination of Highland Creek itself.  Meanwhile, SPHP made use of the convenient plank bridge.

Wading in Highland Creek. Photo looks SE (downstream).
Near the fancy Centennial Trail No. 89 bridge over Highland Creek. Photo looks NW.
Leaving Custer State Park. Photo looks SSW.
The Highland Creek trailhead just inside Wind Cave National Park. Photo looks SE.

1:17 PM, 72ºF, Centennial Trail No. 89 at the Highland Creek trailhead in Wind Cave National Park

Congratulations, Loop!  We made it!  Only took us 5 hours and 40 minutes.

And how far was it, SPHP?  What does the Peakbagger app say?

9.9 miles total since we left the French Creek trailhead, Loopster.  Let’s see, that means we averaged 1.85 miles per hour.

A blistering pace for you, SPHP, but then it was mighty easy terrain almost the entire way.

Gotta stop and sniff the roses, you know, Looper, or what’s the point?  No one’s here handing out medals for fastest time.

Might have been!  They’d be long gone by the time you arrived, SPHP.

Hmm.  Well, I suppose.  Anyway, how about finding a shady spot to rest a bit before we head N to do it all over again, sweet Dingo of mine?

Right after another session in Highland Creek, SPHP!

Leaving the trailhead, Lupe crossed Park Service Road No. 5, and headed N back through the gate into Custer State Park.  After revisiting Highland Creek, she followed Centennial Trail No. 89 over to the nearest hillside, then went most of the way up it to sit in the shade of a big pine.

Back in Custer State Park. Photo looks NE.
Cool paw Loop enjoying her required return to Highland Creek. Photo looks SE.

Relaxing while enjoying the view of the Highland Creek valley for the last time before heading N, suddenly there was movement.

An enormous group of thirsty natives was proceeding down Centennial Trail No. 89 toward Highland Creek!  However, as soon as they spotted Lupe, the entire group stopped, then ran back up the hill a little way.

Uncertain what to do in the face of this unexpected threat, 80 bison stood pondering their chances of making it to the creek before being torn to shreds by an American Dingo.

A fraction of the thirsty herd.

80 bison to 1 Carolina Dog.  Most of the herd soon decided that their odds of survival were pretty good.  Advancing slowly at first, they then sped on by while Lupe whined and trembled with excitement.

We can take ’em, SPHP!

Yeah, I know, but it’s verboten, Loopster.  Just watch.  Pretty cool, aren’t they?  Not many places you can see this!

The bold buffalo enjoyed their drink from Highland Creek, then went back up the hill to rejoin their still parched friends.  As soon as they all vanished into the woods, Lupe hit the trail again.

Sticking to Centennial Trail No. 89, her return was along the exact same route almost the entire way.  Seemed a little different going the opposite direction, but it was all quite familiar now.  Lupe saw the prairie dogs again, and even spotted 2 pronghorn antelope N of Pass No. 3 that might have been the same ones that she’d seen earlier S of it.  A snake was on the trail in this same area.  Happily, not a rattler.

One of two pronghorns hanging out in the Pass No. 3 vicinity.
The snake. Completely harmless, although Custer State Park does have prairie rattlers.

4:57 PM, on the vast meadow leading back to Pass No. 2

There’s your grassy hill with the big tree, SPHP!  Still want to climb it?

Yes, please!  Let’s do it, Looper.  Still plenty of daylight left.

Leaving Centennial Trail No. 89, Lupe roamed ahead while SPHP trudged along behind.

Heading up the grassy hill. Photo looks SW.

A pleasantly cool 10-15 mph NE breeze was blowing up at the top when Lupe arrived.  Hwy No. 87 was in sight down in the next valley to the W.  A series of forested hills and ridges were beyond it, the otherwise lovely scene still marred by smoke.

The big pine tree, which had stood out as somewhat of a loner on this hill 11 years ago, was now surrounded by a small forest.  Really nothing unusual about this place, except that toward the S end Lupe discovered a plaque cemented to a large rock.

What does it say, SPHP?

There’s a short poem by Dan Tyson, and at the end it says “In Memory of the Bentler Family, October 14, 2006.”

Who are the Bentlers, and what happened to them, SPHP?

No idea, Loopster, except that they evidently died, and Dan Tyson knew them.  Maybe they had some connection to this place, the Centennial Trail, or Custer State Park?

Happen to have any more chocolate coconut bars, SPHP?  We could have one in their honor!

Conniving Dingo!  Not sure the Bentlers would feel the least bit honored by us devouring a chocolate coconut bar, but on the other paw, no harm in it, either.  And yes, I still have one.

The last chocolate coconut bar went the way of the Bentlers.  Lupe then polished off the last of the Taste of the Wild, too, and had a big drink of water.  More peanuts for SPHP.

Relaxing by the Bentler family memorial plaque. Photo looks W.

11 years to the day since Loopster had first gone by this hill!  Now the mystery was finally solved as to what was up here, only to be replaced by the new mystery of who were the Bentlers, and what happened to them?

We’ll probably never know, Loop, but I’m glad we came.

6:48 PM, 68ºF – No getting lost and wandering around all night this time around!  The sun was low, but still up, as the Carolina Dog quenched her thirst for the last time today in French Creek.  She’d seen more buffalo on the way back, but overall, it had just been a peaceful evening.

Bison on the Wildlife Loop Road during the return.
Back at French Creek. Photo looks NE.

Fun day, SPHP!  Glad we did this.  Centennial Trail No. 89 is awesome!

Absolutely!  Always a good time, Looper.

So what’s next on the agenda, SPHP?

Nearly June, Loopster!  The grand and glorious Summer of 2023 is almost upon us, and you know what that means.

Dingo Vacations!

That’s right, sweet puppy!  Adventure is calling!  C’mon.  Let’s go home.  We’ve got a lot to do to get ready.

Bentler Family memorial plaque W of Centennial Trail No. 89, Custer State Park, Black Hills of South Dakota 5-20-23

“May they stay where the river runs through

The range and the sky buckskin and blue

May they ride to the end

On the wings of the wind

‘Till they’re home and their circle is through”

– Dan Tyson

Links:

Next Black Hills Expedition               Prior Black Hills Expedition

Centennial Trail No. 89 Brochure & Map

Next Trail Section N:

Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 295 – Centennial Trail No. 89: Badger Hole to to French Creek & Beyond to Peak 5120 (2-7-22)

Want more Lupe adventures?  Check out Lupe’s Black Hills, SD & WY Expeditions Adventure Index, Master Adventure Index, or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures!

West Galbraith Peak, Brooks Range, Alaska (8-30-22)

Part 1 of Day 32 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

9:58 AM, 42ºF, Galbraith Lake campground –

Think everything’s about ready, Loopster!  Shall we?

We shall, SPHP!

Full of enthusiasm, Lupe left the campsite trotting SW through the tall, yellow bushes, heading straight for the nearest mountain, the one SPHP had finally decided to call West Galbraith Peak (4,560 ft.).

About to set out for West Galbraith Peak (R of Center). Photo looks SW.

The sky was still almost entirely overcast this morning, but the fog that had rolled in late yesterday evening was gone, and the mountains were below the clouds.  An unexpected, but happy turn of events.

Lupe was ecstatic!  She raced away across the tundra, exploring and sniffing far ahead of SPHP.

Leaving the Galbraith Lake campground. Lupe (R). Photo looks WSW.

Shortly after crossing the campground access road, Lupe made it to the stream that passes S of it on its way to Galbraith Lake.  This stream was bigger than SPHP expected and rather rocky.

Approaching the stream. West Galbraith Peak (R). Photo looks SW.
West Galbraith Peak (Center) from the big stream. Photo looks SW.

Following the stream toward the mountain on the exposed streambed was more trouble than it was worth.  Too rocky!  Returning to the bank overlooking the stream, the Carolina Dog discovered a use trail, which made life easy.

Before long, the floodplain broadened out a great deal.  The lip of the bank Lupe was on turned W.  Climbing steadily, she was soon quite far from the stream, although she could still see and hear it.

Heading W along the upper lip of the floodplain. Photo looks W.

Approaching West Galbraith Peak, the stream curved SSW.  Several glaciers were visible at the far upper end of the valley in the vicinity of Mount Kiev (7,775 ft.), which was high enough to be up in the clouds.  That whole region looked mighty enticing, but much more rugged and beyond the scope of anything SPHP was prepared for today.

Glaciers near Mount Kiev (L), West Galbraith Peak (R). Photo looks SSW.
Mount Kiev region. Photo looks S with help from the telephoto lens.

In the opposite direction, rolling hills led toward Alaska’s North Slope, which was out of sight, but not all that far away.  Bits of blue sky, and the vastness of the open terrain beckoned there, too.

Alaska’s North Slope is just over the horizon. Photo looks N.

Looking NE back downstream, Lake Benchmark Mountain (5,000 ft.) and Peak 5308 were in sight, as well as part of Galbraith Lake.

Lake Benchmark Mountain (L), Peak 5308 (R), Peak 5430 (far R), Galbraith Lake (Center). Photo looks NE.

The edge of the high ground Lupe was following swept around in a wide arc, eventually turning S, too.  Gradually gaining elevation, the American Dingo explored a bench of tundra below West Galbraith Peak’s NE slopes on the R (W) that overlooked the stream on the L (E).

Continuing S for more than 0.5 mile, this bench began to narrow before shriveling away.  A steep E ridge coming down off West Galbraith Peak was directly ahead.  The intention was to at least get to this ridge to see what might lay beyond it, but by the time Lupe was starting to get close, she was having to traverse rock slides.

Nearly to the E ridge (R). Photo looks S.

Lupe could have made it to the E ridge.  She was nearly there when, looking up the mountain, a nice long stretch of brown tundra appeared on the R.  It was steep, but extended hundreds of feet up the mountain.

You know, Loop, might be easier to head up right here.  Tundra looks good, and the rockier region above it doesn’t look bad, either.  Appears we can intercept the E ridge somewhere up there without much trouble.  Doubt we’ll see a better route around the next bend, anyway.  Want to try it?

Fine with me, SPHP, but what does the topo map say?

Don’t have any maps of this area, Loopster.  West Galbraith Peak is just one of those spur of the moment “Bet we can climb that one!” peaks.

Turning W, Lupe started up the tundra.

Heading up West Galbraith Peak. Photo looks W.

It was a long, steep climb, but perfectly doable.  Lupe had plenty of time to study the intricacies of the tundra, or admire the views during SPHP’s frequent breaks to gasp for air.

The always amazing tundra.

Tundra eventually became scarce, reduced to small tufts and occasional larger patches.  Lupe continued higher, angling WSW toward the E ridge on good-sized scree that was rough and irregular in shape.  It generally held together well, rarely shifting much and providing good support.

Back to the NE, Lupe could see nearly all of Galbraith Lake now.

Amid the scree, heading for the E ridge (L). Photo looks WSW.
Galbraith Lake. Lake Benchmark Mountain (L of Center), Peak 5308 (R), Peak 5430 (far R). Photo looks NE.

By the time Lupe reached the E ridge, she was already at 4,100 feet with less than 500 feet to go.  The views to the S were even better now, and a bit of blue sky raised hopes of sunshine before too long.

The glaciers (Center) from West Galbraith Peak’s E ridge. Photo looks S.
Blue sky near Mount Kiev. Photo looks S with help from the telephoto lens.

Another view was more disconcerting.  Much of West Galbraith Peak’s long summit ridge was now in sight.  A high point way over at the SSW end looked like it might well be the true summit.  Getting to it appeared potentially problematic.

SSW high point (L), NNE high point (far R). Photo looks SW.

Scrambling WNW, Lupe continued higher.  Scree all the way!  Still quite steep, but parts of the ascent weren’t bad at all.  Almost no talus up here, only a little near an outcropping of bedrock that was easily avoided.  Soon Lupe was closing in on the mountain’s NNE high point.

Heading for the NNE summit (L). Photo looks WNW.
NNE summit (L of Center). Almost there! Photo looks W.

1:37 PM, 51ºF, West Galbraith Peak (4,560 ft.) – Lupe’s perch on the NNE summit was sufficient, but certainly not any bigger than it needed to be.  Looking SSW along the long summit ridge, SPHP was satisfied.

On the NNE summit. SSW summit (L). Photo looks SW.

Hard to say for certain, Looper, but I think we’re golden!

So we’re already at the true summit of West Galbraith Peak, SPHP?

Believe so, Loop!  Might be an illusion, but if that SSW high point is any higher, it can’t be by much.  Think I’d actually bet on this being the true summit.

Kind of a narrow ridge, SPHP.  Are we going there, anyway, to make sure?

Naw!  Don’t think it’s worth the trouble, Loopster.  Looks like we could get there, if we’re careful, but seems unnecessary.  If this ridge was wider, we’d do it.  Would be interesting to see how things look from over there. 

Well, good!  I’m ready for a break anyway, SPHP!  Can we just hang out here then?

Why, of course!  Right after I shake your paw, Loopster!  Congratulations on your successful ascent of another fabulous peak in the Brooks Range!

An eagerly accepted chocolate coconut bar and beef jerky were shared in celebration of the joyous occasion.  Although the absolute high point was small and rocky, patches of tundra nearby were sufficiently large to provide a selection of comfortable perches.

At what appeared to be the true summit of West Galbraith Peak. Photo looks SW.
Lake Benchmark Mountain (L), Peak 5308 (Center), Peak 7090 (R). Photo looks ENE.

The views were incredible!  Off to the S, the glaciers in the Mount Kiev region were disappearing among rain showers, making the silvery peaks in that direction even more mysterious.

Rain showers toward Mount Kiev. Photo looks S.
Loopster catching a few winks, apparently not overly concerned. Photo looks S.

Skies were sunnier toward the E.  Galbraith Lake and the Atigun River were in sight.  Lake Benchmark Mountain (5,000 ft.) was the highest point N of the river beyond Galbraith Lake.  The series of peaks farther S were progressively higher toward the SE.  Peak 7090 stood out, but both Peak 7200 and Wellsung Mountain (7,580 ft.) were more daunting.

Galbraith Lake and the Atigun River. Lake Benchmark Mountain (L), Peak 5308 (R), Peak 5430 (far R). Photo looks NE.
Lake Benchmark Mountain (Center), Peak 5308 (R). Photo looks NE.
Peak 7090 (L of Center), Peak 7200 and Wellsung Mountain (R). Photo looks SE.

Imnavait Mountain (3,702 ft.) and Slope Mountain (4,010 ft.) were in view way out on the North Slope.  To the NW, a line of silvery peaks hid whatever was beyond it.

Imnavait Mountain (L edge) and Slope Mountain (L of Center) both on the horizon. Lake Benchmark Mountain (R). Photo looks NNE.
Imnavait Mountain (L of Center) and Slope Mountain (R). Photo looks N.

Although cloudy, conditions were near perfect.  Comfortably warm, and no bugs despite no breeze at all.  With beautiful sights in all directions and plenty of time to enjoy them, SPHP began daydreaming about other peaks Lupe could climb in this region some day.

Relaxing on West Galbraith Peak. Photo looks WSW.

Early enough, SPHP.  Maybe we could climb another mountain today?

Yeah, but we’d get back mighty late, if we did that, Loopster.

So what, SPHP?  Look at where we are!  Surrounded by amazing territory on a perfect day on the N side of the Brooks Range!  How often do we get an opportunity like this?  We could at least do some more exploring!

Maybe you’re right, Loop!  Your traditional summit hour will be over here pretty soon.  Should we pick out another objective?

At first, the line of peaks to the NW seemed to offer the best possibilities that were reasonably nearby.  The American Dingo ought to enjoy a truly spectacular panoramic view of the North Slope from over there!

How about that pointy peak off to the SW, SPHP?  It’s even higher!

You mean the one on the R side of that pass, Loop?

Peak 5050 (Center). Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.

Yes!  Kind of steep, but it’s not as rugged as the stuff on the other side of the pass.  I’m almost positive we could climb it, SPHP.

Yeah, I believe you’re right, Loopster.  If we can get down to the valley W of us here, we should be able to follow it all the way to that pass before scrambling to the top.

Gazing down West Galbraith Peak’s NNW slope, 1,000+ feet of scree led down to the valley in question.

Peering down West Galbraith Peak’s NNW slope. Photo looks NNW.

So, what do you think, SPHP?  Can you do it?  I know I can!

Steep, but clearly manageable, Loop.  It’ll take me a while, but we can get down to the valley alright.  Don’t think we’ll have a problem from there.

Want to try for that pointy peak then, SPHP?

Sure!  I like this idea, Looper!  In fact, that mountain might even be within the NE corner of Gates of the Arctic National Park.

Oh, are we that close to the Gates of the Arctic, SPHP?  How awesome would that be, climbing a mountain there!

Super awesome, Loop, but I’m not sure exactly how far we are from the park.  Can’t be too far from it, though.

If that mountain turns out to be inside the park, or even on the border, we could call it Gates of the Arctic NE Peak (5,050 ft.), couldn’t we?

Yeah, that would probably make sense, Loop.  Would have to see a map to be sure.  I’m all stirred up about it now.  Want to go for it?

Yes, but not until my summit hour is done, SPHP.  West Galbraith Peak is an incredible place, too!  Let’s enjoy our time here.  Then we’ll go.

Fair enough, Loopster.  Sounds like a plan!

Surrounded by splendor on all sides, Lupe relaxed on the soft tundra as her final precious minutes up on West Galbraith Peak (4,560 ft.) ticked away.  Meanwhile, SPHP enjoyed the fabulous Brooks Range views, now drawn especially to the magnetic one off to the SW.

Next objective and potential Gates of the Arctic NE Peak (R). Photo looks SW with lots of help from the telephoto lens.
Enjoying summit hour on West Galbraith Peak, Brooks Range, Alaska 8-30-22

Links:

Next Adventure                 Prior Adventure

Lupe’s West Galbraith Peak GPS Track (Ascent)

Lake Benchmark Mountain, Brooks Range, Alaska (8-19-17)

BLM Dalton Highway Visitor Guide

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