Custer State Park – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 315 – Centennial Trail No. 89 – French Creek to Highland Creek (5-20-23)

7:38 AM, 53ºF, Centennial Trail No. 89, at the French Creek Horse Camp in Custer State Park –

Great to be out in the Black Hills again, SPHP!

It is! Good thing you’re enthusiastic, too. Going to be a long day, Loop.

Terrific! Are we going to be climbing lots of mountains, SPHP?

Nope. Probably none at all. This next section of Centennial Trail No. 89 is 10 miles long. Round trip we’ll be doing 20. That ought to be enough of a romp, even for a Carolina Dog!

Trailhead parking at the **French Creek Horse Camp**. Photo looks SW.

Thirsty, Looper?

Not terribly, SPHP. We haven’t done anything yet.

Well, let’s have a look at French Creek, anyway, before setting off.

Down at the stream, Lupe did help herself to a small drink. Even though French Creek is one of the larger streams in the Black Hills, it isn’t all that big. The lovely stream had decent flow today, though.

All set, Loopster? The trail S starts at the opposite end of the horse camp.

Lupe enjoyed the stroll SW through the horse camp. People, horses, dogs, and intriguing scents were here. At the far end, CSP Road No. 4 went over French Creek. A little farther on, Centennial Trail No. 89 left the road, continuing SW along a much more primitive route.

Covered stalls at the popular **French Creek Horse Camp**. Photo looks W.

**French Creek** again at the SW end of the horse camp. Photo looks SE.

Setting out for Highland Creek on **Centennial Trail No. 89**. Photo looks SW.

Flat at first, the dirt road the trail followed soon began a gradual ascent. Before long, it curved sharply E, starting to climb much more steeply up a side valley. Not a cloud in the sky! SPHP stopped briefly to shed a layer and apply sunscreen.

Starting up the steeper side valley. Photo looks ESE.

This seems familiar, SPHP. We’ve been here not too long ago, haven’t we?

That’s right, Loop. We came down this way 14 months ago after climbing Peak 5213 SE of here on Expedition No. 298. You’ll only remember this first part, though. It’s been a very long time since we’ve gone all the way to Highland Creek.

Winding SW, the dirt road gained 300 feet of elevation before eventually flattening out beyond the part Lupe remembered. Splitting off toward the W as a single track here, Centennial Trail No. 89 soon curved NW, topping out near the head of another valley.

Entering the **Pass No. 1 region**. Photo looks NW.

Reaching the trail’s high point, Lupe paused to look S. Only May, yet the air was already smoky from forest fires raging more than 1,000 miles away in Alberta! The smoke was bad enough to mar distant views, but wasn’t terrible. Despite the haze, Peak 5080 was still visible 2 miles S. She would be going past it in a little while.

**Peak 5080** (R of Center) from **Pass No. 1**. Photo looks S.

Although we won’t be climbing any mountains today, Looper, we will be going over a series of minor passes. This is the first, and highest, one. The Peakbagger app on the iPhone says we’re at 4,970 feet, 1.5 miles from the French Creek Horse Camp trailhead.

Don’t remember this view at all, SPHP. Must really have been a long time since we were here before.

11 years to the day, Loopster! You weren’t even 1.5 years old yet. Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 20, one of our most memorable ever! We actually started for Highland Creek from Badger Hole, a 28 mile round trip. Made it, too, but wound up getting lost after dark on the way back, wandering all night lost somewhere E of Mount Coolidge (6,023 ft.). You cut a paw on something sharp, and I mistook a buffalo for a big rock until we were so close to it, you went nuts. Instead of running away, the buffalo came after you, while I stumbled around on logs cut into sections for firewood, trying to avoid getting charged.

Oh, I remember that, SPHP! Good times! That still has to be our longest Black Hills expedition ever. You never did figure out where we were until we reached Hwy 16A as the sun came up.

Not exactly true, Looper! I knew where we were all along, sort of, within a mile or two. Anyway, all that excitement happened miles N of here. All I remember about what’s S is a prairie dog town somewhere near the end, a pronghorn antelope, and Highland Creek. Other than that, just a grassy hill with a big tree on top that I’d always wished we’d climbed.

If you see that hill again, maybe we can climb it today, SPHP?

Hope so, Loop! Don’t know why, but I always wanted to see what was up there.

Continuing past Pass No. 1, the trail curved S down into the next valley.

At **Centennial Trail No. 89’s high point at Pass No. 1**. Photo looks WNW.

Heading down the next valley. Photo looks S.

A long, gradual slope led back into another forest. Before long, Lupe reached a paved road in a bigger valley. This was the Custer State Park Wildlife Loop. After crossing the Wildlife Loop, the trail bottomed out in the ditch, then began a slow ascent as it curved W up another small, shallow valley.

Beside the parking area where Centennial Trail No. 89 crosses the **Custer State Park Wildlife Loop**. Photo looks SW.

Starting up the next valley. Photo looks W.

The trail soon began turning S. Climbing much more aggressively near the end, Lupe regained 150 feet of elevation before reaching Pass No. 2. She was now at 4,900 feet, only 0.5 mile from the Wildlife Loop, or 2.5 miles from the French Creek trailhead.

S of Pass No. 2, the trail lost scarcely any elevation at all. Instead, it ran SSE through open forest staying nearly flat as it traversed a gentle slope. After 0.5 mile, the forest gave way to a huge meadow. A lone bison stood warily watching the Carolina Dog 400 feet away up on a hill to the SW.

A line of considerably higher hills where the forest had burned ran NW/SE beyond a valley to the E. Peak 5213 was up there!

**S of Pass No. 2**. *Talk about a walk in the park!* Photo looks SSE.

Entering the vast meadow. Photo looks SE.

**Peak 5213** (R of Center) in the distance. Photo looks NE.

Peak 5080 was also in sight again, now directly ahead. A much smaller, grassy hill was even closer off to the SSW. A big Ponderosa pine stood at the top with a collection of smaller ones near it.

That’s the hill I remember, Loop!

The one you always wished we’d climbed, SPHP?

Yes! I’m sure of it!

We can climb it right now then, SPHP!

Let’s wait until we’re on our way back, Loopster, if it’s not too late. More important to make sure we get to Highland Creek first.

**Peak 5080** (Center), the **hill SPHP wanted to climb** (far R). Photo looks S.

Heading SE across the giant meadow, Centennial Trail No. 89 began a gradual descent. Near the next forest, the trail swung SW into it. This seemed a good spot to take a little break in the shade. SPHP took a seat on a log, while Lupe sniffed around, or sat nearby.

Getting warm out, SPHP! I’m thirsty. Nary a drop along the trail ever since we left French Creek.

SPHP shared some water with Lupe, then sat munching honey-roasted peanuts.

How far have we gone now, SPHP?

Hmm. Let me check, Loop. iPhone says 3.5 miles, so we’re a third of the way to Highland Creek, maybe a bit more.

So far, so good, SPHP!

Yeah, this is pretty easy, Loopster. Excellent trail, no super steep terrain. Kind of nice not to have to face an ordeal for once. All we have to worry about is the distance. Since it’s so sunny, let me reapply some sunscreen, then we’ll keep going.

From the break spot, the trail began a somewhat steeper descent. Lupe spotted bright yellow wildflowers on a hillside, and went over to them.

Always remember to take time to sniff the roses, SPHP!

Fairly certain these aren’t roses, Loop, but I agree with the sentiment.

Not roses? No matter, they’ll do! Can’t be too picky in life, either, SPHP.

You’re a wise Dingo, sweet puppy!

Continuing down this next valley, Lupe reached the first damp spots along the trail. Before long she came to a tiny, seasonal creek. The trail turned NE here, ultimately descending to a broad, grassy valley where the Wildlife Loop was in view again, but no actual wildlife.

Continuing down the valley. Photo looks SE.

Crossing the tiny seasonal creek. Photo looks ESE.

Approaching the Wildlife Loop again. Photo looks ENE.

Upon reaching the broad valley, Centennial Trail No. 89 did not continue across it toward the Wildlife Loop Road. Instead, it turned SE, hugging the edge of the forest while winding along the base of the hills. There was some minor, gentle up and down along in here that didn’t amount to much, until the trail veered S up a steeper drainage.

Across the broad valley from the Wildlife Loop Road. Photo looks N.

Going over a gentle rise near the edge of the forest. Photo looks SE.

This drainage was the start of a nearly mile long ascent divided into two parts. After gaining 100 feet of elevation in the forested ravine, Lupe reached the edge of a gently sloping meadow. Two barren hills where the forest had burned were now in sight, with Pass No. 3 between them.

**Pass No. 3** (L) from the edge of the meadow. Photo looks SW.

Still slowly gaining elevation, Centennial Trail No. 89 turned WSW here, and didn’t top out until Lupe reached a stand of pines at the base of the nearest barren hill. A gradual descent SSE followed, with a couple more barren hills, Peak 4880 and Peak 4840, temporarily directly ahead.

**Peak 4880** (Center) and **Peak 4840** (R). Photo looks SE.

The gradual descent led to a shorter, steeper one, as the trail curved SW into the upper end of another ravine that drained E. From the bottom of this ravine, Lupe completed the final leg of the ascent to Pass No. 3.

Approaching **Pass No. 3**. Photo looks S.

10:26 AM – Although marred by smoke, Pass No. 3 offered first views of new territory ahead. A small peak of massive granite formations two miles SW stood out as having a more rugged appearance than the other hills Lupe had been traveling through.

The Peakbagger app says we’re 5.1 miles from the start now, Loopster. Puts us about halfway to Highland Creek. Shall we take a break?

Yes, please! I need another drink, SPHP. Wearing a fur coat, you know.

After sharing water with the Carolina Dog, SPHP munched away again on honey-roasted peanuts, before applying another dose of sunscreen.

Not a bad view, SPHP! How high are we here?

4,775 feet, Loop. Not as high as the first 2 passes. Overall, we’re slowly going downhill as we head S, a trend that will continue all the way to Highland Creek.

Exploring an arm of the pass that jutted out to the SW, CSP Road No. 7 was in view only 0.33 mile away.

**CSP Road No. 7** (Center) from **Pass No. 3**. Photo looks SE.

Continuing on, Centennial Trail No. 89 wound S down to the road. Along the way, Lupe caught sight of the first significant wildlife so far today, a couple of pronghorn antelope. Unfortunately, they ran off before SPHP could get a photo. Nevertheless, seeing the pronghorns was exciting, and more excitement was just ahead.

Reaching CSP Road No. 7 at the bottom of the hill, Lupe was happy to see Flynn Creek. The American Dingo ran ahead, anxious to take advantage of this rare opportunity to cool off.

Wading in **Flynn Creek** next to **CSP Road No. 7**. Photo looks WNW.

After crossing CSP Road No. 7, Centennial Trail No. 89 began climbing SSW back up into a pine forest a little way before curving E. Continuing uphill, Pass No. 4 wasn’t much farther, or much higher, along a dirt road that the trail intersected. The elevation was only 4,590 feet here, nearly 200 feet lower than at Pass No. 3.

Beyond Pass No. 4, the dirt road gradually lost elevation as it wound SE. Loss was minimal, though, no more than 100 feet, before Lupe reached a stretch of very flat terrain where the trail went due S.

Heading downhill again shortly after leaving **Pass No. 4**. Photo looks SE.

Another stroll through the park! Photo looks S.

One of the trail markers. Brown wands were the most common markers, although quite a few were broken. Blue markers with arrows were often seen, too.

This flat stretch eventually led to another minor descent SE, after which Centennial Trail No. 89 turned SW, making its last significant elevation gain of roughly 225 feet before reaching Pass No. 5.

Arriving at **Pass No. 5**. Photo looks SE.

11:42 AM, Pass No. 5 –

How about another short break, Looper?

If there’s water involved, I’m all for it, SPHP!

Sitting in the shade, the day’s now usual break time routine ensued. Lupe got a bowl of water. SPHP munched away on honey-roasted peanuts, and added another layer of sunscreen.

Pretty sure the prairie dog village is down in the next valley we’re seeing ahead, Loop. If they’re still there, that is.

Sounds exciting, SPHP! Does that mean we’re getting close to Highland Creek? Thought you said that the prairie dogs were near the end.

The Peakbagger app says we’re at 4,710 feet here, and that we’ve gone 7.4 miles so far, or about 3/4 of the way to Highland Creek. So, yeah. We’ve made a lot of progress.

There was a view to the NW, featuring some considerably higher hills in the distance. Lupe had a look at it before lying down in the shade.

The trail had followed a rather rocky road up to Pass No. 5. This same road was grassy as it continued S. SPHP assumed that was the way to go, once underway again, but a man suddenly appeared from out of a stand of young pines immediately to the E. He didn’t wave, nod, or say a thing, but turned N, and kept on going down the same road Lupe had come up.

Hmm. That’s odd! We’re invisible! Does the trail go E from here, Loop?

Maybe. How would I know, SPHP? You’ve got a map. What does it say?

The map confirmed that the trail did jog ENE here. In fact, once Lupe got going again, Pass No. 5’s actual high point was a short distance that way. Beyond it was another barren hill where the forest had burned, plus the biggest rock formation the American Dingo had come to since leaving French Creek.

Scrambling up onto the rocks, Mount Coolidge (6,023 ft.) was in sight through the smokey haze, now 6 or 7 miles back to the NNW.

Near **Pass No. 5’s actual high point**. Photo looks NE.

On the rocks. **Peak 4830** (L), **Mount Coolidge** (R) in the distance. Photo looks NNW.

Beyond the rock formation, Centennial Trail No. 89 turned S again. Lupe trotted down an easy slope through an open forest of relatively young pines. As she emerged from the forest, a pancake flat plain was directly ahead. A whole lot of chirping began as the Carolina Dog approached.

The prairie dogs were still here!

Approaching the **prairie dog town**. Photo looks SSE.

There weren’t as many prairie dogs as the last time Lupe had been here 11 years go, but that might have had something to with the time of day. At any rate, quite a few of them whistled at her approach. Centennial Trail No. 89 went straight through the heart of the town. At the S end, a prairie dog marker was on the ground between two tall wooden posts.

Once past the prairie dog town, the trail continued SSE following a dirt road down a long, flat valley. At the far end, the trail dropped more sharply to a low point. After bottoming out, a short, easy climb led to Pass No. 6 at the top of a gentle rise.

In the flat valley **S of the prairie dog town**. Photo looks S.

Heading down to the low point N of Pass No. 6. Photo looks SW.

The terrain was so gently rolling now, that Pass No. 6 wasn’t much of a pass at all, but Lupe stopped here along the edge of a flat, open forest for a short water and shade break, anyway. SPHP kept up the honey-roasted peanut habit, and had an orange, too. Lupe was now hungry enough to eagerly devour some Taste of the Wild.

I know we haven’t reached Highland Creek yet, but it can’t be too much farther. Any any interest in splitting a chocolate coconut bar, Loop?

You can always count on me when it comes to chocolate coconut bars, SPHP!

The end was near! The prairie dog town had been 7.8 miles from French Creek, and Lupe had already gone 8.9 miles at Pass No. 6. Another mile ought to about do it.

As it turned out, one more gentle rise to what might be considered Pass No. 7 was ahead. Beyond it, the road began a gradual descent. When Lupe saw the top of a grassy ridge ahead, SPHP knew she was getting close to Highland Creek.

Heading for **Pass No. 7** (R). Photo looks S.

View to the W from the **Pass No. 7 region**.

The **grassy ridge** (Center) beyond Highland Creek. Photo looks SW.

At the very end, Centennial Trail No. 89 curved W as it dropped down to the Highland Creek valley. 200 feet beyond the creek stood a tall fence with a gate in it. Wind Cave National Park, Service Road No. 5, and the Highland Creek trailhead were all just beyond the fence.

Heading down into the **Highland Creek valley**. Photo looks SSW.

**Highland Creek valley** from a limestone outcropping. Photo looks WNW.

Of course, before visiting the trailhead, the Carolina Dog insisted upon a careful examination of Highland Creek itself. Meanwhile, SPHP made use of the convenient plank bridge.

Wading in **Highland Creek**. Photo looks SE (downstream).

Near the fancy **Centennial Trail No. 89 bridge** over **Highland Creek**. Photo looks NW.

Leaving **Custer State Park**. Photo looks SSW.

The **Highland Creek trailhead** just inside **Wind Cave National Park**. Photo looks SE.

1:17 PM, 72ºF, Centennial Trail No. 89 at the Highland Creek trailhead in Wind Cave National Park –

Congratulations, Loop! We made it! Only took us 5 hours and 40 minutes.

And how far was it, SPHP? What does the Peakbagger app say?

9.9 miles total since we left the French Creek trailhead, Loopster. Let’s see, that means we averaged 1.85 miles per hour.

A blistering pace for you, SPHP, but then it was mighty easy terrain almost the entire way.

Gotta stop and sniff the roses, you know, Looper, or what’s the point? No one’s here handing out medals for fastest time.

Might have been! They’d be long gone by the time you arrived, SPHP.

Hmm. Well, I suppose. Anyway, how about finding a shady spot to rest a bit before we head N to do it all over again, sweet Dingo of mine?

Right after another session in Highland Creek, SPHP!

Leaving the trailhead, Lupe crossed Park Service Road No. 5, and headed N back through the gate into Custer State Park. After revisiting Highland Creek, she followed Centennial Trail No. 89 over to the nearest hillside, then went most of the way up it to sit in the shade of a big pine.

Back in **Custer State Park**. Photo looks NE.

Cool paw Loop enjoying her required return to **Highland Creek**. Photo looks SE.

Relaxing while enjoying the view of the Highland Creek valley for the last time before heading N, suddenly there was movement.

An enormous group of thirsty natives was proceeding down Centennial Trail No. 89 toward Highland Creek! However, as soon as they spotted Lupe, the entire group stopped, then ran back up the hill a little way.

Uncertain what to do in the face of this unexpected threat, 80 bison stood pondering their chances of making it to the creek before being torn to shreds by an American Dingo.

80 bison to 1 Carolina Dog. Most of the herd soon decided that their odds of survival were pretty good. Advancing slowly at first, they then sped on by while Lupe whined and trembled with excitement.

We can take ’em, SPHP!

Yeah, I know, but it’s verboten, Loopster. Just watch. Pretty cool, aren’t they? Not many places you can see this!

The bold buffalo enjoyed their drink from Highland Creek, then went back up the hill to rejoin their still parched friends. As soon as they all vanished into the woods, Lupe hit the trail again.

Sticking to Centennial Trail No. 89, her return was along the exact same route almost the entire way. Seemed a little different going the opposite direction, but it was all quite familiar now. Lupe saw the prairie dogs again, and even spotted 2 pronghorn antelope N of Pass No. 3 that might have been the same ones that she’d seen earlier S of it. A snake was on the trail in this same area. Happily, not a rattler.

One of two pronghorns hanging out in the Pass No. 3 vicinity.

The snake. Completely harmless, although Custer State Park does have prairie rattlers.

4:57 PM, on the vast meadow leading back to Pass No. 2 –

There’s your grassy hill with the big tree, SPHP! Still want to climb it?

Yes, please! Let’s do it, Looper. Still plenty of daylight left.

Leaving Centennial Trail No. 89, Lupe roamed ahead while SPHP trudged along behind.

Heading up the grassy hill. Photo looks SW.

A pleasantly cool 10-15 mph NE breeze was blowing up at the top when Lupe arrived. Hwy No. 87 was in sight down in the next valley to the W. A series of forested hills and ridges were beyond it, the otherwise lovely scene still marred by smoke.

The big pine tree, which had stood out as somewhat of a loner on this hill 11 years ago, was now surrounded by a small forest. Really nothing unusual about this place, except that toward the S end Lupe discovered a plaque cemented to a large rock.

What does it say, SPHP?

There’s a short poem by Dan Tyson, and at the end it says “In Memory of the Bentler Family, October 14, 2006.”

Who are the Bentlers, and what happened to them, SPHP?

No idea, Loopster, except that they evidently died, and Dan Tyson knew them. Maybe they had some connection to this place, the Centennial Trail, or Custer State Park?

Happen to have any more chocolate coconut bars, SPHP? We could have one in their honor!

Conniving Dingo! Not sure the Bentlers would feel the least bit honored by us devouring a chocolate coconut bar, but on the other paw, no harm in it, either. And yes, I still have one.

The last chocolate coconut bar went the way of the Bentlers. Lupe then polished off the last of the Taste of the Wild, too, and had a big drink of water. More peanuts for SPHP.

Relaxing by the **Bentler family memorial plaque**. Photo looks W.

11 years to the day since Loopster had first gone by this hill! Now the mystery was finally solved as to what was up here, only to be replaced by the new mystery of who were the Bentlers, and what happened to them?

We’ll probably never know, Loop, but I’m glad we came.

6:48 PM, 68ºF – No getting lost and wandering around all night this time around! The sun was low, but still up, as the Carolina Dog quenched her thirst for the last time today in French Creek. She’d seen more buffalo on the way back, but overall, it had just been a peaceful evening.

Bison on the Wildlife Loop Road during the return.

Back at **French Creek**. Photo looks NE.

Fun day, SPHP! Glad we did this. Centennial Trail No. 89 is awesome!

Absolutely! Always a good time, Looper.

So what’s next on the agenda, SPHP?

Nearly June, Loopster! The grand and glorious Summer of 2023 is almost upon us, and you know what that means.

Dingo Vacations!

That’s right, sweet puppy! Adventure is calling! C’mon. Let’s go home. We’ve got a lot to do to get ready.

**Bentler Family memorial plaque W of Centennial Trail No. 89**, Custer State Park, Black Hills of South Dakota 5-20-23

“May they stay where the river runs through

The range and the sky buckskin and blue

May they ride to the end

On the wings of the wind

‘Till they’re home and their circle is through”

– Dan Tyson

Links:

Next Black Hills Expedition Prior Black Hills Expedition

Centennial Trail No. 89 Brochure & Map

Next Trail Section N:

Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 295 – Centennial Trail No. 89: Badger Hole to to French Creek & Beyond to Peak 5120 (2-7-22)

Want more Lupe adventures? Check out Lupe’s Black Hills, SD & WY Expeditions Adventure Index, Master Adventure Index, or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures!

Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 301 – Sylvan Lake & the Custer State Park Buffalo Hunt (4-16-22)

11:48 AM, 32ºF, Sylvan Lake Picnic Area – Oh, the news was wonderful! Yesterday evening Cousins Dusty, Laddie, and Uncle Joe had arrived for a visit. Lupe was thrilled! The enthusiastic American Dingo knew what that meant – good times on joint expeditions in the Black Hills! The real question had been where to go? Cousin Dusty would be turning sweet 16 in less than 2 months, and wasn’t up to anything long or strenuous.

This morning, SPHP had suggested the loop trail around Sylvan Lake, a choice agreeable to all, but hadn’t taken the lake’s 6,145 foot elevation fully into account. Mid-April, but there was ice on the lake, snow on the ground, and a chill in the air as Lupe and her cousins set out from the picnic area for a counter-clockwise tour around the lake. It was so cold out that only a couple of Canadians were hardy enough to be hanging out down by the beach.

Setting out from the picnic area. Photo looks NW.

**Sylvan Lake** from near the beach along the N shore. Photo looks SW.

Beyond the beach, the trail wound NW past massive granite formations and improbable spires. Going over a bit of a rise, another part of Sylvan Lake came into view. Cousin Dusty was doing great! She even led the way, happy to be back in the Black Hills again.

Among the granite formations. Photo looks N.

Approaching the **N end of Sylvan Lake**. Cousin Dusty (R) in the lead. Photo looks NW.

Going around a bay, the trail climbed onto rock formations overlooking Sylvan Lake. On this cold, overcast morning, the scene was mostly gray and white. Pines added a green too subdued to break a wintery mood.

The N bay from up on the rocks. Photo looks SE.

Joe, Dusty, and Laddie got a head start as the trail turned SW descending into Sunday Gulch. Protected from the sun by towering rock formations, there was even more snow down here. Water seeped from a big crack in the granite.

Joe and Laddie start down into **Sunday Gulch**. Photo looks SW.

Laddie, Joe, and Dusty in **Sunday Gulch**.

Once down in Sunday Gulch, it was only a short distance to a junction with Sunday Gulch Trail No. 6 near the Sylvan Lake dam. The cloud cover thinned, and the sky brightened. Suddenly, winter seemed to be losing its grip. A hint of spring was in the air.

Joe, Laddie, and Lupe below the dam. Photo looks SE.

Sunday Gulch Trail No. 6 is scenic, but steep. Cousin Dusty wasn’t going to be able to take on a side excursion like that. In fact, she had a bit of a problem with the next section of the Sylvan Lake trail. Beyond the dam, the trail turned S going up a series of snowy steps that led into a narrow passage between vertical rock walls.

The passage was a sheet of ice! A minor rise near the end was so slick that Dusty could scarcely get up it. Repeatedly losing traction, she kept sliding back. Joe had to brace himself between the rock walls to try to give her a helping paw.

Joe, Dusty, and Laddie head up the steps. Photo looks S.

Joe trying to help Dusty up the super slick ice.

After a couple of comical attempts, Dusty got the extra help she needed. Emerging from the narrow passage at lake level near the dam, the rest of the path around the lake was a cinch. Flat as a pancake, the trail ran right along the SW shore nearly all the way to the S end of the lake.

Near the dam (unseen off to the L) after successfully negotiating the icy passage. Photo looks NE.

Looking NW back toward the dam (L beyond Joe).

Didn’t take long at all to get there.

Laddie, Joe, and Dusty at the **S end of Sylvan Lake**. Photo looks NNW.

The massive granite formation near the dam. Photo looks NW.

The scenic jaunt around Sylvan Lake was almost complete. Not much farther back to the picnic area now. Cousin Dusty seemed perplexed. Other than the one icy spot that everyone had had a little trouble with, she was doing fine. The adventure couldn’t be over already, could it?

At 15 years, 10 months, Cousin Dusty ready for more Black Hills action!

Joe proposed extending the trek with a stroll along Needles Highway No. 87, which remained closed to vehicles for the season. After 0.33 mile, a shortcut was taken up to the high point of Little Devils Tower Trail No. 4 between the trailhead and the picnic area back at Sylvan Lake.

Heading up to Trail No. 4 after leaving the Needles Highway. Photo looks SW.

A log served as a bench during a rest break. The dogs shared a chocolate coconut bar, while Joe and SPHP munched on apples and Kind bars. The party broke up after Laddie barked at hikers on the trail.

The return to the Sylvan Lake picnic area on Little Devils Trail No. 4 was quick and easy. Downhill all the way!

On Little Devils Trail No. 4, about to head back to the Sylvan Lake picnic area.

1:45 PM – When everyone got back to the RAV4, there was still plenty of time to do something more today, but that was up to Uncle Joe and his assessment of how Cousin Dusty was faring.

Dusty appeared to be fine. SPHP suggested Custer State Park’s wildlife loop. Dusty might enjoy exploring the rolling grasslands. Would take a while to drive there, with a good chance of seeing buffalo somewhere along the way.

A buffalo hunt, whether from the RAV4 or out on the prairie, sounded like a great idea! Lupe was clearly in favor, and no one else seemed to have any objections.

2:36 PM – Buffalo had already been seen by the time Uncle Joe parked at a curve along CSP Road No. 2 about 0.33 mile N of Racetrack Butte. Lupe had given her cousins live demonstrations of how to bark ferociously at bison from the safety of the RAV4. Laddie was interested, but hadn’t quite picked up on it yet.

Dusty was ready for another outing, if it wasn’t a long one. The plan was to climb a nearby flat-topped ridge hoping to spot more buffalo from a safe distance.

Setting off on the Custer State Park buffalo hunt! Photo looks SW.

Upon reaching the top of the ridge, the buffalo hunt became an instant success. Two buffalo were relaxing on the prairie up here. Not exactly a thundering herd, but they were impressive. Upon seeing an American Dingo, both got up to keep an eye on Lupe, but didn’t really do anything except stand there.

*I’m thinking buffalo burgers! How about you, SPHP? …. I’m thinking you’re close enough, Loop. Stay here!*

Both buffalo soon decided they might as well eat grass. Sensible enough, but not terribly exciting. A lone pine stood near the SE end of the ridge. Ought to be a great view of Racetrack Butte (4,320 ft.) and quite a bit of surrounding territory from over there. Might as well check it out.

Dusty, Laddie, and Joe up on the ridge. **Racetrack Butte** (L). Photo looks SSE.

The hunch paid off! From the end of the ridge there was a terrific view of a whole herd of buffalo in the valley next to Racetrack Butte.

Gazing down on the buffalo herd. **Racetrack Butte** (L). Photo looks SE.

This was a fabulous vantage point! Many brand new calves were among the herd. Joe, Dusty, Laddie, and SPHP all watched in fascination.

Buffalo and their calves with help from the telephoto lens.

Lupe was fascinated, too, but the excitement of seeing so many buffalo all at once quickly became almost unbearable. The Carolina Dog began whining so loudly that the bison must have heard her. All of a sudden, several began ambling off to the E. Before long, they were running.

None of the buffalo wanted to be left behind. Evidently convinced utter disaster threatened, the whole herd began stampeding away. This did nothing to calm Lupe down. Whining more than ever, the frustrated American Dingo watched the bison vanish across the prairie.

The buffalo race away past **Racetrack Butte** (R). Photo looks ESE.

Within minutes, the show was over. The buffalo had provided quite a spectacle!

Joe, Laddie, and Dusty heading back.to the RAV4.

That wasn’t the end of all the excitement, though! Once back in the RAV4, part of the same buffalo herd that had fled the Carolina Dog’s mere whining when she was way up on the ridge far from them, had stopped right on CSP Road No. 2, blocking the road. Now that Lupe was barking hysterically right next to them from the RAV4, most barely glanced up.

*Shut it, pesky Dingo! Can’t you see we’re grazing here?*

Joe eventually had to ease the RAV4 slowly through the herd to get them to move enough to get by. It was a good thing he got through, or Lupe would have busted a gut. The whole experience left her foaming at the mouth, chest heaving. Laddie had been so impressed that even he’d joined in for a moment.

That still wasn’t the end, though. Lupe had plenty more chances to bark like a nutcase. Wildlife was everywhere! On the way out of Custer State Park, Loop saw more buffalo, a huge herd of elk, lots of mountain sheep, marmots, wild turkeys, and turkey vultures. Uncle Joe was amazed at the quantity and variety of wildlife around, not to mention just about deaf, by the time the Custer State Park adventure was over.

The reprieve of silence didn’t last long. Outside the park, this was cattle country. Cows and horses! Lupe had to give them all what for.

So glad Uncle Joe, and cousins Dusty and Laddie were here! What a great day!

Near **Racetrack Butte**, Custer State Park, Black Hills of South Dakota 4-16-22

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Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 298 – Peak 5212 & Peak 5213 (3-15-21)

9:05 AM, 47ºF, Custer State Park, Center Lake –

Center Lake is still frozen, SPHP!

Yeah, but don’t trust it, Loop. We’re going around the lake, not over it.

A path went S from the beach along the W shore. Easy as pie at first, but soon the shoreline started getting sort of steep and rocky. The Carolina Dog got by an initial tight spot, but more obstacles quickly decided SPHP that she’d be better off climbing W a bit. The maneuver worked, but the 40 feet of elevation gained all had to be lost again by the time Lupe made it around to the S end of the lake.

On the beach at **Center Lake**. The dam (L) is at the far end. Photo looks SSE.

Heading S along the W shore. Photo looks S.

Going past the first pinch point. Photo looks SSE.

**Center Lake** from the SW end. Photo looks NNE.

Center Lake is created by a dam over Coolidge Creek. Loop was going to have to cross the spillway. Not a big deal. Coolidge Creek is a relatively small stream. Spread out over the spillway, it was only inches deep.

Wading across the spillway. Photo looks N.

After crossing the spillway, a trail was visible in a field below the dam. Descending to the trail, the American Dingo was soon climbing at a good clip as she followed it ENE. After gaining 100 feet of elevation, the trail began to level out, briefly turning SE.

Following the trail after picking it up below the dam. Photo looks ENE.

We’ll need to climb this slope on the R, Loop.

Leave the trail, SPHP?

Yup. It’s just going to go back N along the E side of the lake.

About to leave the trail to climb the slope on the R. Photo looks SE.

And where are we going, SPHP?

HP5005 initially, Loop. Hoping we’ll see our real objective from there.

Continuing SE after leaving the trail, Looper gained another 100 feet of elevation. This got her to a flat spot next to a small rock formation. There was a bit of a view from here.

At the initial viewpoint. Photo looks SW.

This wasn’t HP5005 quite yet, which was only a little farther E. After a short break, Lupe headed up there. A big hill was in sight 0.6 mile ESE.

That’s where we’re going, Loop! Peak 5212.

Arriving at **HP5005**. Photo looks ENE.

**Peak 5212** (R of Center) from **HP5005**. Photo looks ESE.

SW portions of the South Fork of Bear Gulch were between HP5005 and Peak 5212. Rather than cross this fairly deep valley, Lupe could avoid at least some of the elevation loss she would otherwise incur by following a connecting ridge around the upper end of the gulch.

Starting down HP5005‘s S slope, Lupe quickly came to a clearing where Mount Coolidge (6,023 ft.) and Peak 5440 were in sight.

**Peak 5440** (L) and **Mount Coolidge** (R) from **HP5005‘s S slope**. Photo looks SW.

Same view with help from the telephoto lens. **Peak 5440** (L) and **Mount Coolidge** (R).

The ridge route was nice and wide without obstacles other than quite a bit of slash on the ground, but wasn’t without some elevation loss itself. The biggest drop of roughly 140 feet came early on S of HP5005. Most of this loss had to be regained almost immediately. Upon reaching HP4960, a flat-topped hill, Loop crossed it.

Beyond HP4960, the ridge went E. Not as much up and down now, but the ridge was narrower and presented more obstacles. A minor high point was capped with good-sized rock formations. Once around it, Lupe came to an area with a fair amount of deadfall.

Approaching a rocky high point. Photo looks ESE.

None of these obstacles presented any real difficulties, they just slowed things down a bit. Lupe was soon on her way up Peak 5212’s SW ridge.

Past most of the obstacles. **Peak 5440** (far L), **Mount Coolidge** (L). Photo looks WSW.

**HP5160** (R), **Peak 5212’s SE subpeak**. Photo looks ESE.

The **SW ridge**, not far from the summit. Photo looks NE.

11:12 AM, 53ºF – Peak 5212‘s summit region was large and much more open than expected. The true summit was easily identified, a boulder along the S edge with a great view of Peak 5440 and Mount Coolidge off to the SW, with more distant Northeast Cicero Peak (6,240 ft.) visible between them.

**Peak 5212**. **True summit** (L). Photo looks NW.

On **Peak 5212’s true summit**. **Peak 5440** (L), **Mount Coolidge** (Center) with **Northeast Cicero Peak** between them. Photo looks SW.

Congratulations, Loopster! You’ve just bagged another Lists of John peak. Only one left in Custer State Park that you haven’t been to yet.

Really? Can we see it from here, SPHP?

Nope, but you’ll be seeing it later on today. We’ll drive closer to it once we’re done here.

This calls for a chocolate coconut bar, SPHP!

Indeed it did! SPHP split one with Loop, then sat munching an apple. Lovely day! Always nice when the American Dingo arrived on a new peak that actually had some views like this, instead of being buried in trees. Nearly half an hour shot by before anyone stirred.

About time we had a look around, Loop. Let’s check out what else we can see from up here.

Hoping to catch a good view of HP5160, SPHP led Lupe partway down the SE ridge, but quickly gave up on that idea to avoid undue elevation loss. Heading NW back past the true summit was more successful. A line of hills featuring massive rock formations was visible off to the NE. Black Elk Peak (7,231 ft.) and the Cathedral Spires (6,840 ft.) were in sight beyond Peak 5688 to the NW.

**SE end of the summit region**. Photo looks SE.

**Peak 5688** (Center) in the foreground. **Cathedral Spires** (R of Center) and **Black Elk Peak** (R) beyond. Photo looks NW.

Circling back to the true summit along Peak 5212’s upper S slope, Lupe finally did get a great view of HP5160.

Final moments on **Peak 5212’s true summit**. Photo looks NE.

Having seen what there was to see, Looper headed back down the SW ridge. Retracing her entire ridge route, the Carolina Dog was soon back at HP5005.

Descending **Peak 5212’s SW ridge**. Photo looks SW.

**Peak 5212** as seen on the way back to **HP5005**. Photo looks E.

From HP5005, instead of continuing back the same way, Lupe explored farther NE along the ridge. She soon came to another high point where a flat, open area was strewn with rocks, tufts of tall grass, and scattered pines. SPHP was under the impression that this area might even be a bit higher than HP5005. In any case, it offered a final view of Peak 5212.

Entering the elevated region **NE of HP5005**. Photo looks NE.

On one of the highest rocks. Photo looks SW.

Farewell, **Peak 5212**! Photo looks ESE.

The ridge played out beyond this last high point. Descending a N slope, Looper kept exploring. Coming down a little E of, and below, a broad, flat region, she turned NW, going up and over it. This led to a descent into a forested valley, and eventually back to the same trail Lupe had first reached down by Center Lake’s dam.

Following the trail NW, it first went up to a bit of a high spot with a view of the spillway, before descending to a road that went past a picnic area on the NE side of Center Lake. The rest of the return was mostly just a road hike around the N end of the lake. (End 1:18 PM, 58ºF)

Back at **Center Lake** with a view of the dam and spillway (Center). Photo looks SW.

Reaching the road that goes past the picnic area. Photo looks NW.

1:49 PM, 58ºF, French Creek Horse Camp – SPHP parked the RAV4 over at the trailhead for Centennial Trail No. 89.

The French Creek Horse Camp! We were here not that long ago, SPHP!

That’s right, Loop! Explored Centennial Trail No. 89 from Badger Hole, and went on to Peak 5120 from here.

Ugh! Hope we’re not doing that again, SPHP! Remember all the deadfall on the way there? Ghastly!

Yes, but we survived. Anyway, we’re not going to Peak 5120 again. Going to visit that last Lists of John peak here in Custer State Park that you haven’t been to yet, Peak 5213!

Peak 5213, SPHP? A mere one foot higher than Peak 5212 where we just were? Hope they’re like twins! Peak 5212 wasn’t that hard, and had some nice views.

Before leaving the French Creek Horse Camp, Lupe ran down to French Creek and helped herself to a drink. Last time she’d been here, the creek had been frozen over, but ice remained only along the banks now.

The route to Peak 5213 started out the same way as going to Peak 5120 had. After crossing a bridge over French Creek, Loop followed CSP Road No. 4 nearly 0.5 mile SE up to Pass 4780. A couple of bighorn sheep the American Dingo saw disappearing over the ridge to the W created some excitement along the way.

CSP Road No. 4 on the way to up **Pass 4780**. Photo looks SSE.

This time, instead of heading NE from Pass 4780 like she’d done on the way to Peak 5120, Lupe turned W on a dirt side road. A short climb through the forest led to a flat, open region.

A line of hills was now in sight to the SW.

Oh, joy! We’re in for it again, aren’t we Loop?

Most of the hills had burned. Going to be deadfall city, just like Peak 5120 had been! Maybe not, though, if this road went the right way.

*Let’s hope this road goes clear to the top!* Photo looks SW.

Yeah, good luck with that! Instead of continuing SW toward Peak 5213, after going over a little rise, the road dipped, then curved NW, vanishing down a valley. No choice. Abandoning the road, Lupe started climbing the deadfall infested ridge leading to the highest hill in sight.

Slow going, but the Carolina Dog remained cheerful.

*Don’t worry, we’ll get there!* Photo looks SW.

What a mess! Loopster leapt over, or snuck under, countless dead trees. Fortunately, most were relatively small diameter. Bit by bit, Lupe was closing in on her objective.

*Not too much farther now!* Photo looks SW.

It wasn’t until the Carolina Dog got to a rocky, deadfall-choked top that SPHP realized where she was.

Congratulations, Loop! Kind of an ordeal, wasn’t it?

Here we are, though, SPHP. We made it!

Umm, yeah, about that. There’s good news and bad news, Looper. Which do you want first?

I’ll take the good news, SPHP.

The good news is that we made it this far.

This far? What do you mean by that, SPHP? Isn’t this Peak 5213?

Uh, yes and no. Mostly no. That’s the bad news. Peak 5213 is sort of a big ridge with 3 high points all nearly the same elevation strung out N/S along it. We’re at the N summit now. See those two flat-topped hills to the S? Those are the other summits. The topo map only shows only one specific elevation other than contours – 5,213 feet way over at the S summit. Lists of John just calls this mountain Peak 5220 based on contour levels and shows the central high point as the presumed true summit.

So, what you’re telling me, SPHP, is that we still have to go to both of those other hills?

I knew you’d be thrilled, Looper!

On the **N summit**. **Center one** (Center) and **S one** (R). Photo looks S.

A somewhat clearer view. **Peak 5213 center summit** (L), **S summit** (Center). Photo looks S with help from the telephoto lens.

Well, with 3 high points to visit, Lupe clearly wasn’t going to have time for any traditional summit hour up on each one. In fact, there was no sense in dilly-dallying. Loop was going to be spending plenty of time slogging through the deadfall, and would not feel at all cheated out of a genuine Peak 5213 experience.

Loop did stay on the N summit long enough to check out a nice view to the NW, where Daisy Peak (5,948 ft.), Custer Mountain (6,089 ft.) and Mount Coolidge (6,023 ft.) were all in sight.

**Daisy Peak** (far L), **Custer Mountain** (L), **Mount Coolidge** (R). Photo looks NW.

Not bad, but … Onward! Puppy, ho!

The American Dingo started down the N high point’s SW slope destined for the ridge connecting all 3 high points. Once there, Lupe turned S. Fighting deadfall all the way, she made it to the middle high point’s NW slope. Less deadfall here meant the required 100 feet of elevation gain didn’t take her long.

Starting down the **N summit’s SW slope**. Photo looks SW.

Approaching the **middle high point’s NW slope**. Photo looks SE.

The central high point’s summit encompassed a much larger region than the N summit, which had been small and cramped. Loopster reached a plateau of rocks, wisps of tall yellow grass, and tree trunks. A couple of rocks along the NE edge appeared to be the absolute high point.

**Summit plateau** of **Peak 5213’s central high point**. Photo looks ESE.

**True summit** of the **middle high point**. This is where Lists of John shows the summit. Photo looks NE.

From the N summit, the other two high points appeared to be roughly the same elevation, but the perspective from the middle summit gave quite a different impression. The N summit looked definitely lower. Even the S summit looked a bit lower, but not convincingly enough to make a trip over there unnecessary.

**Peak 5213’s N summit** (Center) from the **middle summit**. Photo looks N.

**S summit** (L of Center) from the **middle high point**. Photo looks WSW.

Lupe continued on. The saddle leading to the S summit was broad and relatively deadfall free. Felt good to be able to move freely again! Loop was approaching the saddle’s low point, when she suddenly stopped and started whining, staring all the while toward the S high point’s E slope.

Giant deers, SPHP! A whole herd of them going up onto the S summit! Hurry up, I want to see them!

Approaching the **S summit**. Photo looks S.

Giant deers along the ridgeline. Photo looks S.

Must have been 20 giant deer, or more, but Lupe was whining so loudly that they could hear her and quickly vanished from view. They’d still been going up, though, as if they still intended to finish their climb of Peak 5213’s S summit.

SPHP tried, but although the saddle was relatively deadfall free, the S summit’s N slope was full of deadfall. Branches snapped and cracked as SPHP trudged higher. Noisy and slow! Not a good combination.

4:07 PM, 54ºF, Peak 5213 S summit – Unsurprisingly, too late! By the time SPHP reached the top, there was no sign of the giant deers. Loop was disappointed. Ahead stretched the largest summit plateau of all. It was another scene of desolation, but not quite as rocky as either of the other two summits. The marginally highest rocks were toward the SW, gripped in the clutches of the roots of a fallen tree.

Highest rocks of the **S summit**, where the map shows 5,213 feet of elevation. Photo looks NNE.

Views all around from here. Perhaps the best one was off to the WNW where Northeast Cicero Peak (6,240 ft.), Daisy Peak (5,948 ft.) and Custer Mountain (6,096 feet.) were on display about 5 miles away.

**Northeast Cicero Peak** (L), **Daisy Peak** (R of Center), **Custer Mountain** (far R). Photo looks WNW.

Well, that’s a wrap, Loop! Think it’s safe to say that you’ve been to the top of Peak 5213 now, no matter which high point is actually the true summit.

Any opinion on which one is really the true summit, SPHP?

Hard to say. Not the N high point, but either here or the middle high point might be it. And how about an opinion from you, Loop? Which mountain did you enjoy more, Peak 5212 or Peak 5213?

Peak 5212 was easier, prettier, and had some nice views, SPHP, but with big horn sheep and giant deers, Peak 5213 is my favorite!

Really? Despite all the wretched deadfall, and 3 summits to visit, Loop?

Yes! It was worth it to see the bighorns and giant deers.

Well, good! Glad the deadfall didn’t bother you that much, cause you’ll be seeing a lot more of it on the way back.

And she did! Heading N down off Peak 5213’s S summit, Lupe went past both the middle and N summits again, but didn’t climb them a second time. Instead, she continued N, then NW, along the ridge before finally descending into a valley to the W. The Carolina Dog didn’t fully escape the deadfall until she reached Centennial Trail No. 89 down in the valley.

This stretch of the trail was actually a road. A road that was still soft and mucky due to snow melt. Avoiding the mud, Lupe spent more time off road than on it, but the situation improved by the time she reached CSP Road No. 4 again SW of the French Creek Horse Camp.

**Centennial Trail No. 89**, which was actually a road here, on the way back to CSP Road No. 4 and the French Creek Horse Camp. Photo looks N.

The rest was super easy. CSP Road No. 4 was flat and firm. A beautiful evening stroll ended back at the French Creek Horse Camp with Lupe enjoying another cold, clear drink from French Creek before leaping back into the RAV4. Expedition over, time to go home! (5:41 PM, 55ºF)

**Peak 5212**, Black Hills of South Dakota 3-15-22

Links:

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