Sylvan Lake – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 301 – Sylvan Lake & the Custer State Park Buffalo Hunt (4-16-22)

11:48 AM, 32ºF, Sylvan Lake Picnic Area – Oh, the news was wonderful! Yesterday evening Cousins Dusty, Laddie, and Uncle Joe had arrived for a visit. Lupe was thrilled! The enthusiastic American Dingo knew what that meant – good times on joint expeditions in the Black Hills! The real question had been where to go? Cousin Dusty would be turning sweet 16 in less than 2 months, and wasn’t up to anything long or strenuous.

This morning, SPHP had suggested the loop trail around Sylvan Lake, a choice agreeable to all, but hadn’t taken the lake’s 6,145 foot elevation fully into account. Mid-April, but there was ice on the lake, snow on the ground, and a chill in the air as Lupe and her cousins set out from the picnic area for a counter-clockwise tour around the lake. It was so cold out that only a couple of Canadians were hardy enough to be hanging out down by the beach.

Setting out from the picnic area. Photo looks NW.

**Sylvan Lake** from near the beach along the N shore. Photo looks SW.

Beyond the beach, the trail wound NW past massive granite formations and improbable spires. Going over a bit of a rise, another part of Sylvan Lake came into view. Cousin Dusty was doing great! She even led the way, happy to be back in the Black Hills again.

Among the granite formations. Photo looks N.

Approaching the **N end of Sylvan Lake**. Cousin Dusty (R) in the lead. Photo looks NW.

Going around a bay, the trail climbed onto rock formations overlooking Sylvan Lake. On this cold, overcast morning, the scene was mostly gray and white. Pines added a green too subdued to break a wintery mood.

The N bay from up on the rocks. Photo looks SE.

Joe, Dusty, and Laddie got a head start as the trail turned SW descending into Sunday Gulch. Protected from the sun by towering rock formations, there was even more snow down here. Water seeped from a big crack in the granite.

Joe and Laddie start down into **Sunday Gulch**. Photo looks SW.

Laddie, Joe, and Dusty in **Sunday Gulch**.

Once down in Sunday Gulch, it was only a short distance to a junction with Sunday Gulch Trail No. 6 near the Sylvan Lake dam. The cloud cover thinned, and the sky brightened. Suddenly, winter seemed to be losing its grip. A hint of spring was in the air.

Joe, Laddie, and Lupe below the dam. Photo looks SE.

Sunday Gulch Trail No. 6 is scenic, but steep. Cousin Dusty wasn’t going to be able to take on a side excursion like that. In fact, she had a bit of a problem with the next section of the Sylvan Lake trail. Beyond the dam, the trail turned S going up a series of snowy steps that led into a narrow passage between vertical rock walls.

The passage was a sheet of ice! A minor rise near the end was so slick that Dusty could scarcely get up it. Repeatedly losing traction, she kept sliding back. Joe had to brace himself between the rock walls to try to give her a helping paw.

Joe, Dusty, and Laddie head up the steps. Photo looks S.

Joe trying to help Dusty up the super slick ice.

After a couple of comical attempts, Dusty got the extra help she needed. Emerging from the narrow passage at lake level near the dam, the rest of the path around the lake was a cinch. Flat as a pancake, the trail ran right along the SW shore nearly all the way to the S end of the lake.

Near the dam (unseen off to the L) after successfully negotiating the icy passage. Photo looks NE.

Looking NW back toward the dam (L beyond Joe).

Didn’t take long at all to get there.

Laddie, Joe, and Dusty at the **S end of Sylvan Lake**. Photo looks NNW.

The massive granite formation near the dam. Photo looks NW.

The scenic jaunt around Sylvan Lake was almost complete. Not much farther back to the picnic area now. Cousin Dusty seemed perplexed. Other than the one icy spot that everyone had had a little trouble with, she was doing fine. The adventure couldn’t be over already, could it?

At 15 years, 10 months, Cousin Dusty ready for more Black Hills action!

Joe proposed extending the trek with a stroll along Needles Highway No. 87, which remained closed to vehicles for the season. After 0.33 mile, a shortcut was taken up to the high point of Little Devils Tower Trail No. 4 between the trailhead and the picnic area back at Sylvan Lake.

Heading up to Trail No. 4 after leaving the Needles Highway. Photo looks SW.

A log served as a bench during a rest break. The dogs shared a chocolate coconut bar, while Joe and SPHP munched on apples and Kind bars. The party broke up after Laddie barked at hikers on the trail.

The return to the Sylvan Lake picnic area on Little Devils Trail No. 4 was quick and easy. Downhill all the way!

On Little Devils Trail No. 4, about to head back to the Sylvan Lake picnic area.

1:45 PM – When everyone got back to the RAV4, there was still plenty of time to do something more today, but that was up to Uncle Joe and his assessment of how Cousin Dusty was faring.

Dusty appeared to be fine. SPHP suggested Custer State Park’s wildlife loop. Dusty might enjoy exploring the rolling grasslands. Would take a while to drive there, with a good chance of seeing buffalo somewhere along the way.

A buffalo hunt, whether from the RAV4 or out on the prairie, sounded like a great idea! Lupe was clearly in favor, and no one else seemed to have any objections.

2:36 PM – Buffalo had already been seen by the time Uncle Joe parked at a curve along CSP Road No. 2 about 0.33 mile N of Racetrack Butte. Lupe had given her cousins live demonstrations of how to bark ferociously at bison from the safety of the RAV4. Laddie was interested, but hadn’t quite picked up on it yet.

Dusty was ready for another outing, if it wasn’t a long one. The plan was to climb a nearby flat-topped ridge hoping to spot more buffalo from a safe distance.

Setting off on the Custer State Park buffalo hunt! Photo looks SW.

Upon reaching the top of the ridge, the buffalo hunt became an instant success. Two buffalo were relaxing on the prairie up here. Not exactly a thundering herd, but they were impressive. Upon seeing an American Dingo, both got up to keep an eye on Lupe, but didn’t really do anything except stand there.

*I’m thinking buffalo burgers! How about you, SPHP? …. I’m thinking you’re close enough, Loop. Stay here!*

Both buffalo soon decided they might as well eat grass. Sensible enough, but not terribly exciting. A lone pine stood near the SE end of the ridge. Ought to be a great view of Racetrack Butte (4,320 ft.) and quite a bit of surrounding territory from over there. Might as well check it out.

Dusty, Laddie, and Joe up on the ridge. **Racetrack Butte** (L). Photo looks SSE.

The hunch paid off! From the end of the ridge there was a terrific view of a whole herd of buffalo in the valley next to Racetrack Butte.

Gazing down on the buffalo herd. **Racetrack Butte** (L). Photo looks SE.

This was a fabulous vantage point! Many brand new calves were among the herd. Joe, Dusty, Laddie, and SPHP all watched in fascination.

Buffalo and their calves with help from the telephoto lens.

Lupe was fascinated, too, but the excitement of seeing so many buffalo all at once quickly became almost unbearable. The Carolina Dog began whining so loudly that the bison must have heard her. All of a sudden, several began ambling off to the E. Before long, they were running.

None of the buffalo wanted to be left behind. Evidently convinced utter disaster threatened, the whole herd began stampeding away. This did nothing to calm Lupe down. Whining more than ever, the frustrated American Dingo watched the bison vanish across the prairie.

The buffalo race away past **Racetrack Butte** (R). Photo looks ESE.

Within minutes, the show was over. The buffalo had provided quite a spectacle!

Joe, Laddie, and Dusty heading back.to the RAV4.

That wasn’t the end of all the excitement, though! Once back in the RAV4, part of the same buffalo herd that had fled the Carolina Dog’s mere whining when she was way up on the ridge far from them, had stopped right on CSP Road No. 2, blocking the road. Now that Lupe was barking hysterically right next to them from the RAV4, most barely glanced up.

*Shut it, pesky Dingo! Can’t you see we’re grazing here?*

Joe eventually had to ease the RAV4 slowly through the herd to get them to move enough to get by. It was a good thing he got through, or Lupe would have busted a gut. The whole experience left her foaming at the mouth, chest heaving. Laddie had been so impressed that even he’d joined in for a moment.

That still wasn’t the end, though. Lupe had plenty more chances to bark like a nutcase. Wildlife was everywhere! On the way out of Custer State Park, Loop saw more buffalo, a huge herd of elk, lots of mountain sheep, marmots, wild turkeys, and turkey vultures. Uncle Joe was amazed at the quantity and variety of wildlife around, not to mention just about deaf, by the time the Custer State Park adventure was over.

The reprieve of silence didn’t last long. Outside the park, this was cattle country. Cows and horses! Lupe had to give them all what for.

So glad Uncle Joe, and cousins Dusty and Laddie were here! What a great day!

Near **Racetrack Butte**, Custer State Park, Black Hills of South Dakota 4-16-22

Links:

Next Black Hills Expedition Prior Black Hills Expedition

Want more Lupe adventures? Check out Lupe’s Black Hills, SD & WY Expeditions Adventure Index, Master Adventure Index, or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures!

Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 74 – Willow Creek to Sylvan Lake (1-19-14)

Willow Creek Horse Camp, Norbeck Wildlife Preserve (10:28 AM, 49°F)

At last! Grandma was doing lots better, and it was an amazingly warm day for January. For the first time in a month and a day, Lupe was heading out on one of her Black Hills expeditions – her first of 2014. A few inches of snow only served to make the Carolina Dog even more joyous and revved up! Not a soul was around as she charged ahead on Willow Creek Trail No. 8, sniffing madly.

The trail went S through a forest of tall pines and spruce trees. It wound around going up and down before crossing small, frozen Willow Creek. Across the creek, the trail divided. One branch went S up the creek valley, the other turned NW and quickly brought Lupe to a cul-de-sac at the end of a gravel road.

Lupe’s ultimate objective for the day was to reach Sylvan Lake, which she had never been to before. Somewhere around here, Loop was supposed to take Lost Cabin Trail No. 2, but there were no signs indicating which way to go. A rather primitive trail headed SW from the cul-de-sac. Since that was the right general direction, Lupe and SPHP tried it.

The primitive trail gained elevation steadily. At first, a few footprints in the snow helped show where the trail went, but they ended at a large clearing where the snow became deeper. Lupe and SPHP had to guess which way to go. Continuing SW across the open ground toward the next part of the forest seemed to be the thing to do.

Near the trees, Lupe found the trail again. As expected, it did head into the forest. There was less snow here, but quite a few dead trees had fallen across the trail. The situation only became worse as Lupe proceeded. The deadfall timber slowed SPHP down significantly.

After a little while winding through the forest, Lupe reached another intersection where the trail divided. The trail heading S started climbing more steeply up the mountain. The trail going N was less steep. It went toward a less heavily forested hillside where it curved W. SPHP wasn’t sure which way to go, but tried the trail to the N.

As the trail turned W, it became apparent why this hillside wasn’t as heavily forested. Pine bark beetles had decimated the trees. Lots of tree trunks were still standing, but the upper portions of the trees had snapped entirely off the trunks. The trail was covered with deadfall timber. The snow was deeper here, too. It was slow going fighting both the deadfall and the snow. Lupe and SPHP spent far more time off the trail trying to get around all the obstacles than on it.

Fortunately, this bad stretch of trail didn’t last long. After 0.25 mile, Lupe came to a footbridge crossing Palmer Creek. A long field paralleled the creek on the other side of the bridge. Across the field, the trail ended at the Palmer Creek trailhead. A map posted at the trailhead showed that Lupe had been on Lost Cabin Trail No. 2 at least since leaving the cul-de-sac. However, the last 0.25 mile of difficult trail leading to this trailhead was only a spur. Lupe would have to retrace it to continue S on up the mountain.

Looking SW up the Palmer Creek valley from near the footbridge.

So Lupe followed the spur trail back across the field, over the bridge, and all the way back to the trail junction. This time she took Lost Cabin Trail No. 2 going S up the mountain. The trail entered a more heavily forested area again as it started climbing rapidly. The snow deepened. Deadfall timber continued to block the trail at regular intervals, but wasn’t as bad as on the spur trail.

Lupe climbed for what seemed like a long time. On the way, she entered the Black Elk Wilderness. The views were steadily improving. Finally the trail leveled out. Lupe had reached a high, rocky area, part of a massive ridge of granite. Lupe left the trail temporarily to explore the rock formations and take in some of the views from here.

Lupe left Lost Cabin Trail No. 2 to explore among the rocks on this big granite ridge. The long ridge with high points at both ends seen in the distance a little R of Center is **Zimmer Ridge (6,600 ft.)**. Photo looks WNW.

Although Lupe had gained hundreds of feet of elevation, she could still see other peaks and ridges that were just as high or higher than where she was now. She returned to Lost Cabin Trail No. 2 to resume her climb.

The trail continued steadily up for a while, but eventually crested at a broad saddle near 6,350 ft. elevation. Due to pine bark beetles, the forest here was a mess. However, the devastation had opened up a view of a rocky high point just to the E.

This seemed like a good place to take a break. SPHP sat on one of the many fallen tree trunks near the trail. Lupe enjoyed Taste of the Wild, SPHP had the usual apple, and both had water.

Lupe reached the crest of Lost Cabin Trail No. 2 at this saddle 0.33 mile NE of **Gap Lode Peak (6,560 ft.)**. The rocky hill seen here is E of the trail. Photo looks E.

After 15 minutes, SPHP’s feet started getting cold. Time to press on and get the circulation going again! Lupe continued S on the trail. It wound around through the forest, but was no longer gaining elevation. Farther along, the forest was in much better condition. The pine bark beetles hadn’t hit it nearly so hard here.

As Lupe continued S on Lost Cabin Trail No. 2, the forest was in better condition.

About 1.5 miles from the break point at the saddle, Lost Cabin Trail No. 2 left the Black Elk Wilderness and ended at a junction with Harney Peak Trail No. 9. At 6,405 feet, this was the highest elevation Lupe would reach all day.

Lupe wasn’t going all the way to Harney Peak (7,242 ft.). Instead, she turned SW on Harney Peak Trail No. 9 in the direction of Sylvan Lake. The trail would take her 0.75 mile down a valley to the Sylvan Lake trailhead, Custer State Park’s most popular starting point for the 3+ mile hike (one way) to Harney Peak.

Trail No. 9 was snow-packed, icy and very slippery. Even though it’s a wide, heavily traveled trail and not particularly steep, the going was treacherous for SPHP. The day was warm enough to melt some snow, allowing water to run over the ice. The ice, however, had hardly softened up at all. The wet ice was super slick. Even an American Dingo slipped and slid in some places.

Lupe had never been here before, but SPHP had. The valley along the trail had been transformed since the last time SPHP had seen it. Apparently pine bark beetles had hit hard. Consequently, bulldozers had been all over the NW side of the valley completing the destruction. The forest had been severely thinned. A once shady hike beneath tall pines and spruce was now far more open and exposed.

The damaged hillsides looked bad. On the plus side, it was much easier than it used to be to see some of the large rock formations on the SE side of the valley.

With so many beetle killed trees removed, views of large rock formations across the valley from Harney Peak Trail No. 9 on the way to Sylvan Lake were much better than they used to be. Photo looks SSE.

A surprising number of people were around when Lupe reached Sylvan Lake. A dozen cars were parked near the lake close to the picnic ground. Lupe and SPHP went over to the small sandy beach on the NE side of the lake. Nearly all the large beautiful pines that used to provide shade around the perimeter were gone. It was a sad sight.

Close to the beach, Lupe climbed up on a big granite formation that juts out into Sylvan Lake. The beautiful scenes looking across the lake from here were unchanged.

Lupe had made it to Sylvan Lake, but winter days are short. The sun was already getting low. Going back the way Lupe had come was not a good idea. Too many parts of the trail had been hidden under deadfall timber. Losing the trail on a winter night was not an option. Although it was 6 miles back to the G6 taking Hwy 87 and Palmer Creek Road, that was the only smart choice.

Lupe and SPHP left the rock formation and went down to the beach, intending to go around the S end of the lake to get to Hwy 87. However, the ice on Sylvan Lake looked thick. Lupe could just walk across to the W side of the lake! Why not?

The ice was full of cracks and fissures as Lupe started out, but felt solid. Lupe went W staying close to the granite formation she had been up on moments ago. She could see people out on the ice near the opposite shore.

Coming around a corner near the rocks, SPHP was surprised to see open water at the edge of the rock formation 30 feet ahead! The sight of open water was unexpected and worrisome, but the ice was still very thick and firm where Lupe was. The Carolina Dog continued across the lake, but swung wide to the S around the small patch of open water.

Lupe reached the W shore of Sylvan Lake without incident.

After crossing frozen Sylvan Lake, Lupe reaches the W shore. Photo looks N.

With the sun sinking fast, people were heading for their cars to go home. Lupe went N on the trail along the W shore of the lake.

Lupe on the trail on the W shore of Sylvan Lake. Photo looks N.

At the NW end of Sylvan Lake near the dam, the trail passes through a narrow gap between huge vertical rock formations. The gap is almost like a tunnel. Large boulders can be seen wedged into the top of the gap above. Lupe went through the gap.

On the other side, Lupe could have gone down beneath the dam that forms Sylvan Lake, but she needed to get to the highway. She took a trail W, passing below more large granite formations.

Walls of granite like this one are typical of the Sylvan Lake area.

SPHP thought Lupe might take the Sunday Gulch trail part of the way back, but missed the turn for it. Lupe arrived at Hwy 87 close Sylvan Lake Lodge.

The sun was still up as the American Dingo trotted N on Hwy 87, but she was in the shade of Sylvan Hill (7,000 ft.) all the way. The highway wound its way steadily down the mountain. Lupe passed through a short granite tunnel. Now and then cars or pickup trucks went by. The temperature was dropping, but Lupe and SPHP enjoyed the trek in the cool mountain air.

While still high up, Lupe saw deer. A few miles later, down in the valley, she saw horses. They kept the journey interesting. When the Carolina Dog reached the turn onto gravel Palmer Creek Road, she took it. Now there was no traffic. The final glow of sunset faded. Lupe passed the access road to the Palmer Creek trailhead.

Stars glittered above in the black night sky by the time Lupe reached Hwy 244. The turn for the Willow Creek Horse Camp wasn’t far now. Before long, a tired, but happy Carolina Dog arrived at the G6 (5:57 PM, 34°F).

Expedition No. 74 was over. Lupe’d had a wonderful time sniffing and exploring new places she’d never been to before. She’d made it all the way to Sylvan Lake, and even walked across the frozen lake. It felt great to be back in action, especially knowing that this was only a start to the many fantastic adventures she would have in 2014!

The final glow of sunset faded away as Lupe traveled Palmer Creek Road.

Willow Creek Horse Camp where Willow Creek Trail No. 8 originates is located off Hwy 224 about 5 miles W of Mount Rushmore, and 3 miles W of Horsethief Lake. The turn is on the S side of the highway a little E of the Palmer Gulch KOA.

The Palmer Creek trailhead where the spur to Lost Cabin Trail No. 2 originates is located off Palmer Creek Road, which can be approached from Hwy 244 a little W of the Palmer Gulch KOA, or Hwy 87 about 3 or 4 miles N of Sylvan Lake.

Links:

Next Black Hills Expedition Prior Black Hills Expedition

Want more Lupe adventures? Check out her Black Hills, SD & WY Expeditions Adventure Index, Master Adventure Index, or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures!