2-7-22, 9:42 AM, Custer State Park, Badger Hole trailhead –
Badger Hole! SPHP, we aren’t going to …
Oh, yes we are, Loopster! Centennial Trail No. 89 S from Badger Hole! But don’t worry, not going to let it become a fiasco like last time.
Badger Hole near Legion Lake is locally famous as the former home of Charles Badger Clark (1883 – 1957), Poet Laureate, author, and one of early South Dakota’s best known citizens.
Yes, but that’s not what I remember Badger Hole for, SPHP!
No! Indeed not! For Lupe, Badger Hole was infamous as her starting point nearly 10 years ago way back on Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 20, when she’d taken Centennial Trail No. 89 all the way to the Highland Creek trailhead near Wind Cave National Park and back, a distance of 29 miles round trip. A decent day hike by most any standards, and that was if one didn’t get lost like SPHP had, tacking on who knows how much more mileage stumbling around off-trail for hours in the dark.
No. 20 had been an expedition of many wonderful adventures, but had turned into a grueling, 19+ hour ordeal that hadn’t ended until dawn the next day. By then, young Lupe had been injured, somehow slicing one of the pads on a paw wide open during the night.
So, today, a more modest goal.
We’ll just go as far as the French Creek Horse Camp, this time, Looper. Only 4.2 miles one way.
That sounds much better, SPHP.
Might tack on a jaunt to Peak 5120, too, if we’re still feeling up to it once we reach French Creek.
Knew there’d be a catch! I’m CinderDingo, though! We better be back to Badger Hole before midnight!
A much earlier return that that was the plan as the American Dingo set out on Centennial Trail No. 89, heading S from Badger Hole.
A little up and down, and the trail turned SW up a shallow valley. This was actually just a spur leading from the Badger Creek trailhead to the main Centennial Trail No. 89 N/S route. Upon reaching the main trail, Lupe turned L, which was the way to French Creek.
Climbing more steeply now, Centennial Trail No. 89 continued SW up the same valley. Lupe soon reached the more open upper end. Curving S, the trail left the valley, bringing her up to Pass 5180.
Beyond the pass, the trail dipped only slightly at first. There was a nice view of a big wall of granite and a mountain off to the NE.
That’s a sweet mountain! We ought to climb it someday, SPHP!
Think we will before too long, Looper. That’s Peak 5440 , a Lists of John peak with 400 feet of prominence!
Oh, are we still doing the Lists of John mini-blitz, SPHP?
No, not really, since you’ve already completed your achievement. At least, not on a mini-blitz basis. But we’ll still be visiting Lists of John peaks as we get the chance, just to see what’s out there. Might as well! Something new and different. If we get to Peak 5120 today, that’s another Lists of John peak.
A fork in the trail was just ahead. The branch to the L was marked with a Centennial Trail No. 89 wand.
Hmm. Seems like we went to the R here back on Expedition No. 20, Loop, but I just don’t remember for sure.
Better stay L, SPHP! It’s clearly marked.
I know, but part of our problem last time was that my Black Hills National Forest map showed Centennial Trail No. 89 dividing somewhere along in here with both E and W routes for a little way. I remember we took the W route going S, which went fine, but then we somehow got off on the E route on the way back and got lost.
That’s because we went clear to Highland Creek, and it got dark. So you missed the turn onto the W route without realizing it, SPHP.
Yeah, and then we lost the E route entirely.
Don’t overthink this, SPHP! That was long ago. Let’s stick with the clearly marked trail.
Probably good advice. Taking the marked trail L, Lupe went SE a little way along a flat region featuring a few rock formations before the trail turned S, descending into the next valley.
Upon reaching the floor of the valley, Lupe came upon more signage. All the arrows pointed N, back where she’d just been, which wasn’t terribly helpful. Marked with not one, but two wands, Centennial Trail No. 89 turned E here, heading down the valley.
Gosh, I’m really confused now, Loopster. Remember this spot, but just about 100% certain that we did not go E here. We crossed this valley still going S, eventually winding up at Pass 5437. Would bet money on it!
Well, fine. Want to do that again, SPHP? Just point out the trail that goes that way, ’cause I’m not sniffing it!
Alright, I will!
SPHP spent several minutes looking for a trail going S across the valley, but finding none, conceded the point. Lupe headed E.
The trek E was super easy. Nearly flat, the trail soon became a two track road. Lupe eventually crossed a tiny frozen creek. After crossing it, the trail made a big jog to the SW, but soon looped back E again. None of this seemed even faintly familiar to SPHP, but every now and then a Centennial Trail No. 89 wand confirmed that Lupe was still on track.
After turning E again, the valley widened out. Another wand appeared, marking a R turn off the two track road.
As a single track, the trail once again doubled back to the SW, starting up a forested slope. After gaining some elevation, it then suddenly turned E. Still climbing at an easy pace, Lupe had to dodge some deadfall before the trail broke out of the forest, angling SE up a grassy slope.
The trail leveled out as Lupe crossed a field, then slowly lost elevation curving E again. Down in the valley ahead, a road came into view that led to a metal building.
Loop! I think we went past that building when we were lost on Expedition No. 20!
Good to know, SPHP! Fortunately, we don’t have to go that way today. Stick with the program!
Centennial Trail No. 89 did not go down to the road. Instead it now swung SW, apparently destined for another valley. A trail map was posted near the start.
What does it say, SPHP?
Shows a lot more trails in this area than I would have thought, Looper.
Does it show your E and W routes of Centennial Trail No. 89?
No. At least, not both of them. Pretty sure we’re on what used to be the E route. No sign of the W route on this map.
And where do we go from here, SPHP?
Just keep heading SW up this next valley, Loop.
The valley was broad. The trail nearly level. That gradually changed. Centennial Trail No. 89 eventually linked up with a road. Lupe came to a spot where it looked like the trail was about to top out, but it didn’t.
Roughly 0.75 mile SW of the posted map, Centennial Trail No. 89 finally did top out.
Recognize this place, SPHP?
No, but I know where we are. We’re at Pass 5140, just W of Peak 5396.
Were we here on Expedition No. 20?
Yes, we must have been, Loop, but it was dark as pitch by then.
How much farther to French Creek from here, SPHP?
About another mile, Looper. Downhill all the way!
Heading S from Pass 5140, Centennial Trail No. 89 quickly became steep and rocky as it dropped into the final valley leading to French Creek. After losing 300 feet of elevation, the rate of descent diminished.
SPHP soon spotted a side valley to the R (W).
Hang on, Looper! Let’s check this out. Think this is where the W route came down from Pass 5437.
Hard to say with complete certainty, but it did look like some kind of an old trail went up the side valley. However, this region had burned since Loopster had been here nearly 10 years ago. Whatever remained of Centennial Trail No. 89’s W route was choked with uncleared deadfall.
Lupe continued on. The trail wound down the narrow valley. Loopster came to a tiny creek with a teeny weeny cattail pond. At the lower end of the valley, a boardwalk went past a wall of rock. An intersection near French Creek was just around the next bend.
Still another mile to the French Creek Horse Camp trailhead, but it was an easy, scenic, upstream trek. Two fords, but they were frozen stiff in early February. The Carolina Dog sauntered across both without a care in the world.
Beyond the second ford, Centennial Trail No. 89 followed French Creek SE to the next bend before leaving it to head W across an open field. The trail soon turned SW. By then it wasn’t much farther to the French Creek Horse Camp.
12:49 PM, French Creek Horse Camp –
Well, here we are Loop! The French Creek Horse Camp! Haven’t been here in nearly 10 years. Was a nice hike, wasn’t it?
Just think, SPHP! Last time we were here on Expedition No. 20, we were just getting started. 4 miles down, with 25+ to go!
Yes and no, Looper. Actually the very last time we were here, we were on our way back from Highland Creek that same day. It was getting mighty dark, and we were already famished and about worn out. Which brings up another subject. What do you think? Do you feel up to going on to Peak 5120? It will likely get dark on us on the way back.
As long as you aren’t going to make it a tradition to get us lost in the dark so that we have to stay out all night, I’m all in, SPHP!
SPHP wasn’t about to let that happen, especially not in February! So, rather than return to Badger Hole, Lupe headed S on CSP Road No. 4.
After crossing a bridge over French Creek, CSP Road No. 4 wound SE for 0.33 mile up to Pass 4780. A faint trail beyond a red sign that said “No Vehicles” went ENE from here toward grassy hills where the old forest had burned.
ENE was the way to Peak 5120. However, the original plan had been to stick with CSP No. 4, going over this pass down to the next valley before turning NE. Yet staying up on the open ground held some appeal, too.
Doesn’t say “No Dingoes”, SPHP! Want to try it?
Sure, Loop! Why not?
Should have known better. That burnt forest was why not. At first, it all went fine. Loopster trotted through the tall grass, taking aim generally toward HP5080, the highest hill visible from the pass. The terrain soon forced her NNE along the ridgeline, which was where the trouble began.
Lots of deadfall along the ridge!
Ignoring this early warning, SPHP led Lupe up to a rock formation with a nice view to the NW.
From this viewpoint, Lupe continued on over the S shoulder of the next hill to the E, dodging deadfall to the extent possible. However, getting past the shoulder provided no relief at all. A winding, deadfall-laden mess the rest of the way to HP5080!
Criminitly, Loop! I never learn, do I?
No comment, SPHP. C’mon, let’s get there!
A wretched trek through the deadfall finally got Looper up to HP5080, which was just as big a mess as the rest of this icky ridge route. Once again, no relief in sight. More burnt forest between here and a second HP5080, a mere 0.25 mile to the ENE. 140 feet of elevation loss would be required before heading up its steep W slope, thrashing amid deadfall every step of the way.
And after the second HP5080, presumably a rinse and repeat yet again before Lupe would arrive at Peak 5120.
Think I need a pick-me-upper, SPHP! Must be chocolate coconut bar time by now!
You’ve got that right, sweet puppy!
Unfortunately, chocolate coconut bars have such a short half-life that the ordeal soon had to be resumed. For a while now, a road had been visible in the valleys to the S. By the time Lupe managed to get down close to the saddle leading to the second HP5080, SPHP was done.
Forget this ghastly ridge route, Loopster! Head for the road!
And lose all this elevation we’ve been struggling to maintain, SPHP?
Yes, absolutely! This is taking forever and a day!
What a relief to be able to move again! The valley route was the way to go! Following the road around the S end of the second HP5080, the SW slopes of Peak 5120 came into view. The road wound right on up to them. A short grassy climb ended with another brief deadfall battle.
2:55 PM, 53ºF, Peak 5120 – Wow! This could have been so much easier! A valley road hike all the way back to CSP Road No. 4 was clearly in the Carolina Dog’s future, but that could wait. Time for a break! As usual, today’s menu included the last chocolate coconut bar, Taste of the Wild, water, and for SPHP, an apple.
Peak 5120’s summit ridge looked like every other hill on the way here, a complete mess. Further exploration hardly seemed worth the effort. Curling up on SPHP’s lap, facing into a cool 10-15 mph NW breeze, Lupe relaxed while trying to enjoy the burnt tree-broken views.
Mount Coolidge (6,023 ft.) was the closest real high point. Much farther away, and more to the NNW, Little Devils Tower (6,960 ft.), Cathedral Spires (6,840 ft.), Black Elk Peak (7,231 ft.), and Peak 6735 could all be glimpsed from well chosen spots.
Although the views were interesting, nothing to the E or S was as high as Peak 5120, and higher hills to the W were harder to positively identify through all the dead trees.
Despite the sunny openness of the burnt forest, as the late afternoon sun sank in the SW, Peak 5120 felt isolated, remote.
Probably doesn’t get many visitors, Loop, but Jerry Brekhus was here once, a few years back. Betty, too.
Oh, do you suppose they built a cairn somewhere up here, SPHP?
Hmm. Maybe. Want to look around for one?
A check of the highest portion of the summit ridge revealed no obvious cairns. 40 minutes after arriving, Lupe left Peak 5120, sniffing her way first to a slightly lower SW shoulder, before ultimately taking the S ridge down to the road’s high point.
A little open knob W of the road offered a great view of Peak 5120 back to the N. As the American Dingo started down the road, a clear view of Mount Coolidge was dead ahead, too. Lupe would pass E of it again on the way back to Badger Hole.
The valley road route back to CSP Road No. 4 was a brilliant success! So much easier! Then it was N up to Pass 4780 again before heading down to the French Creek Horse Camp.
Got dark well before Loopster made it back to Badger Hole. Silver stars twinkled above when SPHP stopped to put new batteries into the little flashlight. But, as promised, the Carolina Dog suffered no repeat of the ever so long ago Expedition No. 20 fiasco.
No losing Centennial Trail No. 89 this time around! (7:09 PM, 44ºF)
Links:
Next Black Hills Expedition Prior Black Hills Expedition
Next Trail Section N
Centennial Trail No. 89 Brochure & Map
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