French Creek – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 315 – Centennial Trail No. 89 – French Creek to Highland Creek (5-20-23)

7:38 AM, 53ºF, Centennial Trail No. 89, at the French Creek Horse Camp in Custer State Park –

Great to be out in the Black Hills again, SPHP!

It is! Good thing you’re enthusiastic, too. Going to be a long day, Loop.

Terrific! Are we going to be climbing lots of mountains, SPHP?

Nope. Probably none at all. This next section of Centennial Trail No. 89 is 10 miles long. Round trip we’ll be doing 20. That ought to be enough of a romp, even for a Carolina Dog!

Trailhead parking at the **French Creek Horse Camp**. Photo looks SW.

Thirsty, Looper?

Not terribly, SPHP. We haven’t done anything yet.

Well, let’s have a look at French Creek, anyway, before setting off.

Down at the stream, Lupe did help herself to a small drink. Even though French Creek is one of the larger streams in the Black Hills, it isn’t all that big. The lovely stream had decent flow today, though.

All set, Loopster? The trail S starts at the opposite end of the horse camp.

Lupe enjoyed the stroll SW through the horse camp. People, horses, dogs, and intriguing scents were here. At the far end, CSP Road No. 4 went over French Creek. A little farther on, Centennial Trail No. 89 left the road, continuing SW along a much more primitive route.

Covered stalls at the popular **French Creek Horse Camp**. Photo looks W.

**French Creek** again at the SW end of the horse camp. Photo looks SE.

Setting out for Highland Creek on **Centennial Trail No. 89**. Photo looks SW.

Flat at first, the dirt road the trail followed soon began a gradual ascent. Before long, it curved sharply E, starting to climb much more steeply up a side valley. Not a cloud in the sky! SPHP stopped briefly to shed a layer and apply sunscreen.

Starting up the steeper side valley. Photo looks ESE.

This seems familiar, SPHP. We’ve been here not too long ago, haven’t we?

That’s right, Loop. We came down this way 14 months ago after climbing Peak 5213 SE of here on Expedition No. 298. You’ll only remember this first part, though. It’s been a very long time since we’ve gone all the way to Highland Creek.

Winding SW, the dirt road gained 300 feet of elevation before eventually flattening out beyond the part Lupe remembered. Splitting off toward the W as a single track here, Centennial Trail No. 89 soon curved NW, topping out near the head of another valley.

Entering the **Pass No. 1 region**. Photo looks NW.

Reaching the trail’s high point, Lupe paused to look S. Only May, yet the air was already smoky from forest fires raging more than 1,000 miles away in Alberta! The smoke was bad enough to mar distant views, but wasn’t terrible. Despite the haze, Peak 5080 was still visible 2 miles S. She would be going past it in a little while.

**Peak 5080** (R of Center) from **Pass No. 1**. Photo looks S.

Although we won’t be climbing any mountains today, Looper, we will be going over a series of minor passes. This is the first, and highest, one. The Peakbagger app on the iPhone says we’re at 4,970 feet, 1.5 miles from the French Creek Horse Camp trailhead.

Don’t remember this view at all, SPHP. Must really have been a long time since we were here before.

11 years to the day, Loopster! You weren’t even 1.5 years old yet. Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 20, one of our most memorable ever! We actually started for Highland Creek from Badger Hole, a 28 mile round trip. Made it, too, but wound up getting lost after dark on the way back, wandering all night lost somewhere E of Mount Coolidge (6,023 ft.). You cut a paw on something sharp, and I mistook a buffalo for a big rock until we were so close to it, you went nuts. Instead of running away, the buffalo came after you, while I stumbled around on logs cut into sections for firewood, trying to avoid getting charged.

Oh, I remember that, SPHP! Good times! That still has to be our longest Black Hills expedition ever. You never did figure out where we were until we reached Hwy 16A as the sun came up.

Not exactly true, Looper! I knew where we were all along, sort of, within a mile or two. Anyway, all that excitement happened miles N of here. All I remember about what’s S is a prairie dog town somewhere near the end, a pronghorn antelope, and Highland Creek. Other than that, just a grassy hill with a big tree on top that I’d always wished we’d climbed.

If you see that hill again, maybe we can climb it today, SPHP?

Hope so, Loop! Don’t know why, but I always wanted to see what was up there.

Continuing past Pass No. 1, the trail curved S down into the next valley.

At **Centennial Trail No. 89’s high point at Pass No. 1**. Photo looks WNW.

Heading down the next valley. Photo looks S.

A long, gradual slope led back into another forest. Before long, Lupe reached a paved road in a bigger valley. This was the Custer State Park Wildlife Loop. After crossing the Wildlife Loop, the trail bottomed out in the ditch, then began a slow ascent as it curved W up another small, shallow valley.

Beside the parking area where Centennial Trail No. 89 crosses the **Custer State Park Wildlife Loop**. Photo looks SW.

Starting up the next valley. Photo looks W.

The trail soon began turning S. Climbing much more aggressively near the end, Lupe regained 150 feet of elevation before reaching Pass No. 2. She was now at 4,900 feet, only 0.5 mile from the Wildlife Loop, or 2.5 miles from the French Creek trailhead.

S of Pass No. 2, the trail lost scarcely any elevation at all. Instead, it ran SSE through open forest staying nearly flat as it traversed a gentle slope. After 0.5 mile, the forest gave way to a huge meadow. A lone bison stood warily watching the Carolina Dog 400 feet away up on a hill to the SW.

A line of considerably higher hills where the forest had burned ran NW/SE beyond a valley to the E. Peak 5213 was up there!

**S of Pass No. 2**. *Talk about a walk in the park!* Photo looks SSE.

Entering the vast meadow. Photo looks SE.

**Peak 5213** (R of Center) in the distance. Photo looks NE.

Peak 5080 was also in sight again, now directly ahead. A much smaller, grassy hill was even closer off to the SSW. A big Ponderosa pine stood at the top with a collection of smaller ones near it.

That’s the hill I remember, Loop!

The one you always wished we’d climbed, SPHP?

Yes! I’m sure of it!

We can climb it right now then, SPHP!

Let’s wait until we’re on our way back, Loopster, if it’s not too late. More important to make sure we get to Highland Creek first.

**Peak 5080** (Center), the **hill SPHP wanted to climb** (far R). Photo looks S.

Heading SE across the giant meadow, Centennial Trail No. 89 began a gradual descent. Near the next forest, the trail swung SW into it. This seemed a good spot to take a little break in the shade. SPHP took a seat on a log, while Lupe sniffed around, or sat nearby.

Getting warm out, SPHP! I’m thirsty. Nary a drop along the trail ever since we left French Creek.

SPHP shared some water with Lupe, then sat munching honey-roasted peanuts.

How far have we gone now, SPHP?

Hmm. Let me check, Loop. iPhone says 3.5 miles, so we’re a third of the way to Highland Creek, maybe a bit more.

So far, so good, SPHP!

Yeah, this is pretty easy, Loopster. Excellent trail, no super steep terrain. Kind of nice not to have to face an ordeal for once. All we have to worry about is the distance. Since it’s so sunny, let me reapply some sunscreen, then we’ll keep going.

From the break spot, the trail began a somewhat steeper descent. Lupe spotted bright yellow wildflowers on a hillside, and went over to them.

Always remember to take time to sniff the roses, SPHP!

Fairly certain these aren’t roses, Loop, but I agree with the sentiment.

Not roses? No matter, they’ll do! Can’t be too picky in life, either, SPHP.

You’re a wise Dingo, sweet puppy!

Continuing down this next valley, Lupe reached the first damp spots along the trail. Before long she came to a tiny, seasonal creek. The trail turned NE here, ultimately descending to a broad, grassy valley where the Wildlife Loop was in view again, but no actual wildlife.

Continuing down the valley. Photo looks SE.

Crossing the tiny seasonal creek. Photo looks ESE.

Approaching the Wildlife Loop again. Photo looks ENE.

Upon reaching the broad valley, Centennial Trail No. 89 did not continue across it toward the Wildlife Loop Road. Instead, it turned SE, hugging the edge of the forest while winding along the base of the hills. There was some minor, gentle up and down along in here that didn’t amount to much, until the trail veered S up a steeper drainage.

Across the broad valley from the Wildlife Loop Road. Photo looks N.

Going over a gentle rise near the edge of the forest. Photo looks SE.

This drainage was the start of a nearly mile long ascent divided into two parts. After gaining 100 feet of elevation in the forested ravine, Lupe reached the edge of a gently sloping meadow. Two barren hills where the forest had burned were now in sight, with Pass No. 3 between them.

**Pass No. 3** (L) from the edge of the meadow. Photo looks SW.

Still slowly gaining elevation, Centennial Trail No. 89 turned WSW here, and didn’t top out until Lupe reached a stand of pines at the base of the nearest barren hill. A gradual descent SSE followed, with a couple more barren hills, Peak 4880 and Peak 4840, temporarily directly ahead.

**Peak 4880** (Center) and **Peak 4840** (R). Photo looks SE.

The gradual descent led to a shorter, steeper one, as the trail curved SW into the upper end of another ravine that drained E. From the bottom of this ravine, Lupe completed the final leg of the ascent to Pass No. 3.

Approaching **Pass No. 3**. Photo looks S.

10:26 AM – Although marred by smoke, Pass No. 3 offered first views of new territory ahead. A small peak of massive granite formations two miles SW stood out as having a more rugged appearance than the other hills Lupe had been traveling through.

The Peakbagger app says we’re 5.1 miles from the start now, Loopster. Puts us about halfway to Highland Creek. Shall we take a break?

Yes, please! I need another drink, SPHP. Wearing a fur coat, you know.

After sharing water with the Carolina Dog, SPHP munched away again on honey-roasted peanuts, before applying another dose of sunscreen.

Not a bad view, SPHP! How high are we here?

4,775 feet, Loop. Not as high as the first 2 passes. Overall, we’re slowly going downhill as we head S, a trend that will continue all the way to Highland Creek.

Exploring an arm of the pass that jutted out to the SW, CSP Road No. 7 was in view only 0.33 mile away.

**CSP Road No. 7** (Center) from **Pass No. 3**. Photo looks SE.

Continuing on, Centennial Trail No. 89 wound S down to the road. Along the way, Lupe caught sight of the first significant wildlife so far today, a couple of pronghorn antelope. Unfortunately, they ran off before SPHP could get a photo. Nevertheless, seeing the pronghorns was exciting, and more excitement was just ahead.

Reaching CSP Road No. 7 at the bottom of the hill, Lupe was happy to see Flynn Creek. The American Dingo ran ahead, anxious to take advantage of this rare opportunity to cool off.

Wading in **Flynn Creek** next to **CSP Road No. 7**. Photo looks WNW.

After crossing CSP Road No. 7, Centennial Trail No. 89 began climbing SSW back up into a pine forest a little way before curving E. Continuing uphill, Pass No. 4 wasn’t much farther, or much higher, along a dirt road that the trail intersected. The elevation was only 4,590 feet here, nearly 200 feet lower than at Pass No. 3.

Beyond Pass No. 4, the dirt road gradually lost elevation as it wound SE. Loss was minimal, though, no more than 100 feet, before Lupe reached a stretch of very flat terrain where the trail went due S.

Heading downhill again shortly after leaving **Pass No. 4**. Photo looks SE.

Another stroll through the park! Photo looks S.

One of the trail markers. Brown wands were the most common markers, although quite a few were broken. Blue markers with arrows were often seen, too.

This flat stretch eventually led to another minor descent SE, after which Centennial Trail No. 89 turned SW, making its last significant elevation gain of roughly 225 feet before reaching Pass No. 5.

Arriving at **Pass No. 5**. Photo looks SE.

11:42 AM, Pass No. 5 –

How about another short break, Looper?

If there’s water involved, I’m all for it, SPHP!

Sitting in the shade, the day’s now usual break time routine ensued. Lupe got a bowl of water. SPHP munched away on honey-roasted peanuts, and added another layer of sunscreen.

Pretty sure the prairie dog village is down in the next valley we’re seeing ahead, Loop. If they’re still there, that is.

Sounds exciting, SPHP! Does that mean we’re getting close to Highland Creek? Thought you said that the prairie dogs were near the end.

The Peakbagger app says we’re at 4,710 feet here, and that we’ve gone 7.4 miles so far, or about 3/4 of the way to Highland Creek. So, yeah. We’ve made a lot of progress.

There was a view to the NW, featuring some considerably higher hills in the distance. Lupe had a look at it before lying down in the shade.

The trail had followed a rather rocky road up to Pass No. 5. This same road was grassy as it continued S. SPHP assumed that was the way to go, once underway again, but a man suddenly appeared from out of a stand of young pines immediately to the E. He didn’t wave, nod, or say a thing, but turned N, and kept on going down the same road Lupe had come up.

Hmm. That’s odd! We’re invisible! Does the trail go E from here, Loop?

Maybe. How would I know, SPHP? You’ve got a map. What does it say?

The map confirmed that the trail did jog ENE here. In fact, once Lupe got going again, Pass No. 5’s actual high point was a short distance that way. Beyond it was another barren hill where the forest had burned, plus the biggest rock formation the American Dingo had come to since leaving French Creek.

Scrambling up onto the rocks, Mount Coolidge (6,023 ft.) was in sight through the smokey haze, now 6 or 7 miles back to the NNW.

Near **Pass No. 5’s actual high point**. Photo looks NE.

On the rocks. **Peak 4830** (L), **Mount Coolidge** (R) in the distance. Photo looks NNW.

Beyond the rock formation, Centennial Trail No. 89 turned S again. Lupe trotted down an easy slope through an open forest of relatively young pines. As she emerged from the forest, a pancake flat plain was directly ahead. A whole lot of chirping began as the Carolina Dog approached.

The prairie dogs were still here!

Approaching the **prairie dog town**. Photo looks SSE.

There weren’t as many prairie dogs as the last time Lupe had been here 11 years go, but that might have had something to with the time of day. At any rate, quite a few of them whistled at her approach. Centennial Trail No. 89 went straight through the heart of the town. At the S end, a prairie dog marker was on the ground between two tall wooden posts.

Once past the prairie dog town, the trail continued SSE following a dirt road down a long, flat valley. At the far end, the trail dropped more sharply to a low point. After bottoming out, a short, easy climb led to Pass No. 6 at the top of a gentle rise.

In the flat valley **S of the prairie dog town**. Photo looks S.

Heading down to the low point N of Pass No. 6. Photo looks SW.

The terrain was so gently rolling now, that Pass No. 6 wasn’t much of a pass at all, but Lupe stopped here along the edge of a flat, open forest for a short water and shade break, anyway. SPHP kept up the honey-roasted peanut habit, and had an orange, too. Lupe was now hungry enough to eagerly devour some Taste of the Wild.

I know we haven’t reached Highland Creek yet, but it can’t be too much farther. Any any interest in splitting a chocolate coconut bar, Loop?

You can always count on me when it comes to chocolate coconut bars, SPHP!

The end was near! The prairie dog town had been 7.8 miles from French Creek, and Lupe had already gone 8.9 miles at Pass No. 6. Another mile ought to about do it.

As it turned out, one more gentle rise to what might be considered Pass No. 7 was ahead. Beyond it, the road began a gradual descent. When Lupe saw the top of a grassy ridge ahead, SPHP knew she was getting close to Highland Creek.

Heading for **Pass No. 7** (R). Photo looks S.

View to the W from the **Pass No. 7 region**.

The **grassy ridge** (Center) beyond Highland Creek. Photo looks SW.

At the very end, Centennial Trail No. 89 curved W as it dropped down to the Highland Creek valley. 200 feet beyond the creek stood a tall fence with a gate in it. Wind Cave National Park, Service Road No. 5, and the Highland Creek trailhead were all just beyond the fence.

Heading down into the **Highland Creek valley**. Photo looks SSW.

**Highland Creek valley** from a limestone outcropping. Photo looks WNW.

Of course, before visiting the trailhead, the Carolina Dog insisted upon a careful examination of Highland Creek itself. Meanwhile, SPHP made use of the convenient plank bridge.

Wading in **Highland Creek**. Photo looks SE (downstream).

Near the fancy **Centennial Trail No. 89 bridge** over **Highland Creek**. Photo looks NW.

Leaving **Custer State Park**. Photo looks SSW.

The **Highland Creek trailhead** just inside **Wind Cave National Park**. Photo looks SE.

1:17 PM, 72ºF, Centennial Trail No. 89 at the Highland Creek trailhead in Wind Cave National Park –

Congratulations, Loop! We made it! Only took us 5 hours and 40 minutes.

And how far was it, SPHP? What does the Peakbagger app say?

9.9 miles total since we left the French Creek trailhead, Loopster. Let’s see, that means we averaged 1.85 miles per hour.

A blistering pace for you, SPHP, but then it was mighty easy terrain almost the entire way.

Gotta stop and sniff the roses, you know, Looper, or what’s the point? No one’s here handing out medals for fastest time.

Might have been! They’d be long gone by the time you arrived, SPHP.

Hmm. Well, I suppose. Anyway, how about finding a shady spot to rest a bit before we head N to do it all over again, sweet Dingo of mine?

Right after another session in Highland Creek, SPHP!

Leaving the trailhead, Lupe crossed Park Service Road No. 5, and headed N back through the gate into Custer State Park. After revisiting Highland Creek, she followed Centennial Trail No. 89 over to the nearest hillside, then went most of the way up it to sit in the shade of a big pine.

Back in **Custer State Park**. Photo looks NE.

Cool paw Loop enjoying her required return to **Highland Creek**. Photo looks SE.

Relaxing while enjoying the view of the Highland Creek valley for the last time before heading N, suddenly there was movement.

An enormous group of thirsty natives was proceeding down Centennial Trail No. 89 toward Highland Creek! However, as soon as they spotted Lupe, the entire group stopped, then ran back up the hill a little way.

Uncertain what to do in the face of this unexpected threat, 80 bison stood pondering their chances of making it to the creek before being torn to shreds by an American Dingo.

80 bison to 1 Carolina Dog. Most of the herd soon decided that their odds of survival were pretty good. Advancing slowly at first, they then sped on by while Lupe whined and trembled with excitement.

We can take ’em, SPHP!

Yeah, I know, but it’s verboten, Loopster. Just watch. Pretty cool, aren’t they? Not many places you can see this!

The bold buffalo enjoyed their drink from Highland Creek, then went back up the hill to rejoin their still parched friends. As soon as they all vanished into the woods, Lupe hit the trail again.

Sticking to Centennial Trail No. 89, her return was along the exact same route almost the entire way. Seemed a little different going the opposite direction, but it was all quite familiar now. Lupe saw the prairie dogs again, and even spotted 2 pronghorn antelope N of Pass No. 3 that might have been the same ones that she’d seen earlier S of it. A snake was on the trail in this same area. Happily, not a rattler.

One of two pronghorns hanging out in the Pass No. 3 vicinity.

The snake. Completely harmless, although Custer State Park does have prairie rattlers.

4:57 PM, on the vast meadow leading back to Pass No. 2 –

There’s your grassy hill with the big tree, SPHP! Still want to climb it?

Yes, please! Let’s do it, Looper. Still plenty of daylight left.

Leaving Centennial Trail No. 89, Lupe roamed ahead while SPHP trudged along behind.

Heading up the grassy hill. Photo looks SW.

A pleasantly cool 10-15 mph NE breeze was blowing up at the top when Lupe arrived. Hwy No. 87 was in sight down in the next valley to the W. A series of forested hills and ridges were beyond it, the otherwise lovely scene still marred by smoke.

The big pine tree, which had stood out as somewhat of a loner on this hill 11 years ago, was now surrounded by a small forest. Really nothing unusual about this place, except that toward the S end Lupe discovered a plaque cemented to a large rock.

What does it say, SPHP?

There’s a short poem by Dan Tyson, and at the end it says “In Memory of the Bentler Family, October 14, 2006.”

Who are the Bentlers, and what happened to them, SPHP?

No idea, Loopster, except that they evidently died, and Dan Tyson knew them. Maybe they had some connection to this place, the Centennial Trail, or Custer State Park?

Happen to have any more chocolate coconut bars, SPHP? We could have one in their honor!

Conniving Dingo! Not sure the Bentlers would feel the least bit honored by us devouring a chocolate coconut bar, but on the other paw, no harm in it, either. And yes, I still have one.

The last chocolate coconut bar went the way of the Bentlers. Lupe then polished off the last of the Taste of the Wild, too, and had a big drink of water. More peanuts for SPHP.

Relaxing by the **Bentler family memorial plaque**. Photo looks W.

11 years to the day since Loopster had first gone by this hill! Now the mystery was finally solved as to what was up here, only to be replaced by the new mystery of who were the Bentlers, and what happened to them?

We’ll probably never know, Loop, but I’m glad we came.

6:48 PM, 68ºF – No getting lost and wandering around all night this time around! The sun was low, but still up, as the Carolina Dog quenched her thirst for the last time today in French Creek. She’d seen more buffalo on the way back, but overall, it had just been a peaceful evening.

Bison on the Wildlife Loop Road during the return.

Back at **French Creek**. Photo looks NE.

Fun day, SPHP! Glad we did this. Centennial Trail No. 89 is awesome!

Absolutely! Always a good time, Looper.

So what’s next on the agenda, SPHP?

Nearly June, Loopster! The grand and glorious Summer of 2023 is almost upon us, and you know what that means.

Dingo Vacations!

That’s right, sweet puppy! Adventure is calling! C’mon. Let’s go home. We’ve got a lot to do to get ready.

**Bentler Family memorial plaque W of Centennial Trail No. 89**, Custer State Park, Black Hills of South Dakota 5-20-23

“May they stay where the river runs through

The range and the sky buckskin and blue

May they ride to the end

On the wings of the wind

‘Till they’re home and their circle is through”

– Dan Tyson

Links:

Next Black Hills Expedition Prior Black Hills Expedition

Centennial Trail No. 89 Brochure & Map

Next Trail Section N:

Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 295 – Centennial Trail No. 89: Badger Hole to to French Creek & Beyond to Peak 5120 (2-7-22)

Want more Lupe adventures? Check out Lupe’s Black Hills, SD & WY Expeditions Adventure Index, Master Adventure Index, or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures!

Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 295 – Centennial Trail No. 89: Badger Hole to French Creek & Beyond to Peak 5120 (2-7-22)

2-7-22, 9:42 AM, Custer State Park, Badger Hole trailhead –

Badger Hole! SPHP, we aren’t going to …

Oh, yes we are, Loopster! Centennial Trail No. 89 S from Badger Hole! But don’t worry, not going to let it become a fiasco like last time.

Badger Hole near Legion Lake is locally famous as the former home of Charles Badger Clark (1883 – 1957), Poet Laureate, author, and one of early South Dakota’s best known citizens.

Yes, but that’s not what I remember Badger Hole for, SPHP!

No! Indeed not! For Lupe, Badger Hole was infamous as her starting point nearly 10 years ago way back on Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 20, when she’d taken Centennial Trail No. 89 all the way to the Highland Creek trailhead near Wind Cave National Park and back, a distance of 29 miles round trip. A decent day hike by most any standards, and that was if one didn’t get lost like SPHP had, tacking on who knows how much more mileage stumbling around off-trail for hours in the dark.

No. 20 had been an expedition of many wonderful adventures, but had turned into a grueling, 19+ hour ordeal that hadn’t ended until dawn the next day. By then, young Lupe had been injured, somehow slicing one of the pads on a paw wide open during the night.

So, today, a more modest goal.

We’ll just go as far as the French Creek Horse Camp, this time, Looper. Only 4.2 miles one way.

That sounds much better, SPHP.

Might tack on a jaunt to Peak 5120, too, if we’re still feeling up to it once we reach French Creek.

Knew there’d be a catch! I’m CinderDingo, though! We better be back to Badger Hole before midnight!

A much earlier return that that was the plan as the American Dingo set out on Centennial Trail No. 89, heading S from Badger Hole.

A little up and down, and the trail turned SW up a shallow valley. This was actually just a spur leading from the Badger Creek trailhead to the main Centennial Trail No. 89 N/S route. Upon reaching the main trail, Lupe turned L, which was the way to French Creek.

Following the Badger Hole spur up the shallow valley. Photo looks SW.

Climbing more steeply now, Centennial Trail No. 89 continued SW up the same valley. Lupe soon reached the more open upper end. Curving S, the trail left the valley, bringing her up to Pass 5180.

Entering the upper valley. Photo looks SW.

At **Pass 5180**, **0.67 mile SW of Badger Hole**. Photo looks S.

Beyond the pass, the trail dipped only slightly at first. There was a nice view of a big wall of granite and a mountain off to the NE.

That’s a sweet mountain! We ought to climb it someday, SPHP!

Think we will before too long, Looper. That’s Peak 5440 , a Lists of John peak with 400 feet of prominence!

Oh, are we still doing the Lists of John mini-blitz, SPHP?

No, not really, since you’ve already completed your achievement. At least, not on a mini-blitz basis. But we’ll still be visiting Lists of John peaks as we get the chance, just to see what’s out there. Might as well! Something new and different. If we get to Peak 5120 today, that’s another Lists of John peak.

A fork in the trail was just ahead. The branch to the L was marked with a Centennial Trail No. 89 wand.

Hmm. Seems like we went to the R here back on Expedition No. 20, Loop, but I just don’t remember for sure.

Better stay L, SPHP! It’s clearly marked.

I know, but part of our problem last time was that my Black Hills National Forest map showed Centennial Trail No. 89 dividing somewhere along in here with both E and W routes for a little way. I remember we took the W route going S, which went fine, but then we somehow got off on the E route on the way back and got lost.

That’s because we went clear to Highland Creek, and it got dark. So you missed the turn onto the W route without realizing it, SPHP.

Yeah, and then we lost the E route entirely.

Don’t overthink this, SPHP! That was long ago. Let’s stick with the clearly marked trail.

Probably good advice. Taking the marked trail L, Lupe went SE a little way along a flat region featuring a few rock formations before the trail turned S, descending into the next valley.

Near the minor rock formations. Photo looks SE.

Starting down into the next valley. Photo looks SSW.

Upon reaching the floor of the valley, Lupe came upon more signage. All the arrows pointed N, back where she’d just been, which wasn’t terribly helpful. Marked with not one, but two wands, Centennial Trail No. 89 turned E here, heading down the valley.

Gosh, I’m really confused now, Loopster. Remember this spot, but just about 100% certain that we did not go E here. We crossed this valley still going S, eventually winding up at Pass 5437. Would bet money on it!

Well, fine. Want to do that again, SPHP? Just point out the trail that goes that way, ’cause I’m not sniffing it!

Alright, I will!

SPHP spent several minutes looking for a trail going S across the valley, but finding none, conceded the point. Lupe headed E.

The trek E was super easy. Nearly flat, the trail soon became a two track road. Lupe eventually crossed a tiny frozen creek. After crossing it, the trail made a big jog to the SW, but soon looped back E again. None of this seemed even faintly familiar to SPHP, but every now and then a Centennial Trail No. 89 wand confirmed that Lupe was still on track.

About to cross the tiny frozen creek (R). Photo looks ESE.

After turning E again, the valley widened out. Another wand appeared, marking a R turn off the two track road.

Centennial Trail No. 89 leaves the road here, heading off to the R. Photo looks E.

As a single track, the trail once again doubled back to the SW, starting up a forested slope. After gaining some elevation, it then suddenly turned E. Still climbing at an easy pace, Lupe had to dodge some deadfall before the trail broke out of the forest, angling SE up a grassy slope.

Heading up the grassy slope after leaving the valley. Photo looks SE.

The trail leveled out as Lupe crossed a field, then slowly lost elevation curving E again. Down in the valley ahead, a road came into view that led to a metal building.

The road (Center) to the metal building comes into view. Photo looks ENE.

Loop! I think we went past that building when we were lost on Expedition No. 20!

Good to know, SPHP! Fortunately, we don’t have to go that way today. Stick with the program!

Centennial Trail No. 89 did not go down to the road. Instead it now swung SW, apparently destined for another valley. A trail map was posted near the start.

Heading for the next valley. Photo looks SW.

What does it say, SPHP?

Shows a lot more trails in this area than I would have thought, Looper.

Does it show your E and W routes of Centennial Trail No. 89?

No. At least, not both of them. Pretty sure we’re on what used to be the E route. No sign of the W route on this map.

And where do we go from here, SPHP?

Just keep heading SW up this next valley, Loop.

The valley was broad. The trail nearly level. That gradually changed. Centennial Trail No. 89 eventually linked up with a road. Lupe came to a spot where it looked like the trail was about to top out, but it didn’t.

Climbing faster now as the valley narrows. Photo looks W.

Getting close to a top? Photo looks WSW.

Nope. Still heading higher. Photo looks WSW.

Roughly 0.75 mile SW of the posted map, Centennial Trail No. 89 finally did top out.

Recognize this place, SPHP?

No, but I know where we are. We’re at Pass 5140, just W of Peak 5396.

Were we here on Expedition No. 20?

Yes, we must have been, Loop, but it was dark as pitch by then.

How much farther to French Creek from here, SPHP?

About another mile, Looper. Downhill all the way!

*This way to French Creek!* Leaving **Pass 5140**. Photo looks S.

Heading S from Pass 5140, Centennial Trail No. 89 quickly became steep and rocky as it dropped into the final valley leading to French Creek. After losing 300 feet of elevation, the rate of descent diminished.

Beginning the steep, rocky part of the descent. Photo looks SSW.

SPHP soon spotted a side valley to the R (W).

Hang on, Looper! Let’s check this out. Think this is where the W route came down from Pass 5437.

Hard to say with complete certainty, but it did look like some kind of an old trail went up the side valley. However, this region had burned since Loopster had been here nearly 10 years ago. Whatever remained of Centennial Trail No. 89’s W route was choked with uncleared deadfall.

Lupe continued on. The trail wound down the narrow valley. Loopster came to a tiny creek with a teeny weeny cattail pond. At the lower end of the valley, a boardwalk went past a wall of rock. An intersection near French Creek was just around the next bend.

Approaching the boardwalk. Photo looks SE.

At the trail junction near French Creek.

Still another mile to the French Creek Horse Camp trailhead, but it was an easy, scenic, upstream trek. Two fords, but they were frozen stiff in early February. The Carolina Dog sauntered across both without a care in the world.

Following Centennial Trail No. 89 upstream to the French Creek Horse Camp. Photo looks SSW.

Standing on **French Creek**. Photo looks ESE.

Beyond the second ford, Centennial Trail No. 89 followed French Creek SE to the next bend before leaving it to head W across an open field. The trail soon turned SW. By then it wasn’t much farther to the French Creek Horse Camp.

Beyond the second ford. Photo looks ESE.

Crossing the field after leaving French Creek. Photo looks W.

Near the French Creek Horse Camp. Photo looks SW.

*Made it!* At the **French Creek Horse Camp**. Photo looks SW.

12:49 PM, French Creek Horse Camp –

Well, here we are Loop! The French Creek Horse Camp! Haven’t been here in nearly 10 years. Was a nice hike, wasn’t it?

Just think, SPHP! Last time we were here on Expedition No. 20, we were just getting started. 4 miles down, with 25+ to go!

Yes and no, Looper. Actually the very last time we were here, we were on our way back from Highland Creek that same day. It was getting mighty dark, and we were already famished and about worn out. Which brings up another subject. What do you think? Do you feel up to going on to Peak 5120? It will likely get dark on us on the way back.

As long as you aren’t going to make it a tradition to get us lost in the dark so that we have to stay out all night, I’m all in, SPHP!

SPHP wasn’t about to let that happen, especially not in February! So, rather than return to Badger Hole, Lupe headed S on CSP Road No. 4.

Leaving the **French Creek Horse Camp**. Photo looks ESE.

After crossing a bridge over French Creek, CSP Road No. 4 wound SE for 0.33 mile up to Pass 4780. A faint trail beyond a red sign that said “No Vehicles” went ENE from here toward grassy hills where the old forest had burned.

ENE was the way to Peak 5120. However, the original plan had been to stick with CSP No. 4, going over this pass down to the next valley before turning NE. Yet staying up on the open ground held some appeal, too.

Doesn’t say “No Dingoes”, SPHP! Want to try it?

Sure, Loop! Why not?

Should have known better. That burnt forest was why not. At first, it all went fine. Loopster trotted through the tall grass, taking aim generally toward HP5080, the highest hill visible from the pass. The terrain soon forced her NNE along the ridgeline, which was where the trouble began.

In the tall grass, heading for **HP5080** (R). Photo looks NE.

Lots of deadfall along the ridge!

Ignoring this early warning, SPHP led Lupe up to a rock formation with a nice view to the NW.

On the rock with a view. Photo looks NW.

From this viewpoint, Lupe continued on over the S shoulder of the next hill to the E, dodging deadfall to the extent possible. However, getting past the shoulder provided no relief at all. A winding, deadfall-laden mess the rest of the way to HP5080!

Criminitly, Loop! I never learn, do I?

No comment, SPHP. C’mon, let’s get there!

Approaching the S shoulder (R) of the next hill. Photo looks NE.

Closing (slowly!) in on **HP5080** (L). Photo looks ESE.

A wretched trek through the deadfall finally got Looper up to HP5080, which was just as big a mess as the rest of this icky ridge route. Once again, no relief in sight. More burnt forest between here and a second HP5080, a mere 0.25 mile to the ENE. 140 feet of elevation loss would be required before heading up its steep W slope, thrashing amid deadfall every step of the way.

And after the second HP5080, presumably a rinse and repeat yet again before Lupe would arrive at Peak 5120.

On the **W HP5080** looking ENE toward the E one. **Peak 5120** is partially visible beyond it.

Think I need a pick-me-upper, SPHP! Must be chocolate coconut bar time by now!

You’ve got that right, sweet puppy!

Unfortunately, chocolate coconut bars have such a short half-life that the ordeal soon had to be resumed. For a while now, a road had been visible in the valleys to the S. By the time Lupe managed to get down close to the saddle leading to the second HP5080, SPHP was done.

Forget this ghastly ridge route, Loopster! Head for the road!

And lose all this elevation we’ve been struggling to maintain, SPHP?

Yes, absolutely! This is taking forever and a day!

About to escape the deadfall and head down to the road. Photo looks SSE.

What a relief to be able to move again! The valley route was the way to go! Following the road around the S end of the second HP5080, the SW slopes of Peak 5120 came into view. The road wound right on up to them. A short grassy climb ended with another brief deadfall battle.

Going around the **S end of the E HP5080** (L). Photo looks NE.

**SW slopes of Peak 5120** dead ahead! Photo looks NE.

Success! On **Peak 5120**. **HP4971** (far L). Photo looks S.

2:55 PM, 53ºF, Peak 5120 – Wow! This could have been so much easier! A valley road hike all the way back to CSP Road No. 4 was clearly in the Carolina Dog’s future, but that could wait. Time for a break! As usual, today’s menu included the last chocolate coconut bar, Taste of the Wild, water, and for SPHP, an apple.

Peak 5120’s summit ridge looked like every other hill on the way here, a complete mess. Further exploration hardly seemed worth the effort. Curling up on SPHP’s lap, facing into a cool 10-15 mph NW breeze, Lupe relaxed while trying to enjoy the burnt tree-broken views.

Mount Coolidge (6,023 ft.) was the closest real high point. Much farther away, and more to the NNW, Little Devils Tower (6,960 ft.), Cathedral Spires (6,840 ft.), Black Elk Peak (7,231 ft.), and Peak 6735 could all be glimpsed from well chosen spots.

**Mount Coolidge** (R of Center, beyond Lupe). Photo looks NW.

**Little Devils Tower** (far L), **Cathedral Spires** (L), **Black Elk Peak** (R), and **Peak 6735** (far R). Photo looks NNW with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

Although the views were interesting, nothing to the E or S was as high as Peak 5120, and higher hills to the W were harder to positively identify through all the dead trees.

Lower terrain all the way to the South Dakota prairies on the horizon. Photo looks SE.

Despite the sunny openness of the burnt forest, as the late afternoon sun sank in the SW, Peak 5120 felt isolated, remote.

Probably doesn’t get many visitors, Loop, but Jerry Brekhus was here once, a few years back. Betty, too.

Oh, do you suppose they built a cairn somewhere up here, SPHP?

Hmm. Maybe. Want to look around for one?

Exploring a little way along the summit ridge. Photo looks NNE.

A check of the highest portion of the summit ridge revealed no obvious cairns. 40 minutes after arriving, Lupe left Peak 5120, sniffing her way first to a slightly lower SW shoulder, before ultimately taking the S ridge down to the road’s high point.

A little open knob W of the road offered a great view of Peak 5120 back to the N. As the American Dingo started down the road, a clear view of Mount Coolidge was dead ahead, too. Lupe would pass E of it again on the way back to Badger Hole.

**Mount Coolidge** (L of Center). Photo looks NW.

The valley road route back to CSP Road No. 4 was a brilliant success! So much easier! Then it was N up to Pass 4780 again before heading down to the French Creek Horse Camp.

Got dark well before Loopster made it back to Badger Hole. Silver stars twinkled above when SPHP stopped to put new batteries into the little flashlight. But, as promised, the Carolina Dog suffered no repeat of the ever so long ago Expedition No. 20 fiasco.

No losing Centennial Trail No. 89 this time around! (7:09 PM, 44ºF)